Roun’ Jamaica

With the dew still on the lush greenery of Jamaica’s rural countryside and the sun rising slowly, warming the Tuesday morning skyline, the Go-Jamaica team, Kerry-Ann Bercher and Peter Abrikian, began a very fulfilling and eventful day going Roun’ St. Ann.

Our first stop was the famous Faith’s Pen, one of the main stops in St. Ann for tasty traditional fast food. You can get four ‘festivals’ for $100, a hot cup of soup for $100 and tasty fried fish for $350.

We had not even parked yet when several male vendors rushed to the car shouting, “Good morning! Good morning! Any roast yam? Any fry fish? Any jerk chicken?” We looked at each other in surprise and then laughed. “We’re from the Gleaner and we just want to feature some vendors here and learn a little about Faiths Pen.” Their expressions changed immediately. Disappointed, they went back to their stalls. One man lingered saying, “So you really naah buy nothing from me? No breadfruit? No ackee and saltfish?… ai sah.”

We made our way to our first stall – ‘John Bull Cow Cod Soup’. There we were met by a ‘drum pan’ grill with mouthwatering fried breadfruit, fried fish and jerk chicken. ‘Miss Toots’ was more than willing to talk to us about how long she had been selling in Faith’s Pen. She also told us about the late John Bull and his legendary Cow Cod Soup.

While stirring and adding the ingredients to a huge pot of Cow Cod Soup, she expressed concern on behalf of herself and fellow vendors about the Government’s decision three years ago to relocate them and the negative effect it has on their livelihood.

“A Gleaner unu come from?!” exclaimed ‘Number 1’, the chef at Cherry’s One Stop. He approached us with his cook fork and apron on. He laid the fork on the table and greeted us warmly. “So unu come feature we today? We open from 4 a.m. straight back till we say whenA me cook the best jerk chicken, fry fish and bammy, curry goat, tripe and bean, corn soup…roun’ here you know?!” he said smiling.

A woman could be seen thoroughly enjoying a mean plate of roast breadfruit and ackee and saltfish – piping hot, straight from the pot at Cherry’s One Stop After finishing her scrumptious meal, she told us a little about ‘Cherry’, her aunt, who had been selling there for a number of years.

Before ending our visit to Faith’s Pen, we met a very unusual man. He had piercings in his eyebrows, lips and ears – 14 of which were of copper wire. There was evidence of other piercings too as there we holes in his nose bridge and nostrils. In all, he had 26 visible piercings in his face which he did himself.

“Good day sir! You look like a very interesting character. Would you mind if we talk with you and take a few pictures?” said Peter. The strange man just sat and looked at us blankly. After a minute or two passed, he said “You can gwaan take your pictures dem, but I can’t talk about it”, he said. “Ok. Thanks”, said Peter.

With a look of bewilderment on our faces, we made our way out and continued going ‘Roun’ Jamaica’.

'The Green Pond'

The Pimento Porch Clubhouse was our first stop. With our complimentary drink in hand, we went in, feasting our eyes on the well-kept specimens of how life was back in the 1960s. The old cold stove and the dry coconut brought back memories for some of us… (I think).

Seasonings used at the Spice Making Hut at Walkerswood, St. Ann, Jamaica.

The Spice Making Hut was our next stop…  There we were given samples of ingredients that Walkerswood use to make their chutneys, sauces, marinades and pepper. While my colleague Peter took pictures, I tried to make a little creation of my own with pepper, pimento seeds, thyme a little escallion and some other ‘secret ingredients’. As I grounded them, the fresh, earthy and spicy aroma of the seasonings reminded me of my mother’s Sunday evening chicken. Yum!

The Spice Factory

Walkerswood is surrounded by a beautiful landscape, which is home to many varieties of herbs and spices. As we entered the factory where the Walkerswood products are made, our nostrils were filled with the earthy richness of their scents.

Go-Local Team Member. Kerry-Ann having a taste of the Walkerswood Sorrel Chutney.

Making our way upstairs we saw what looked like a stall. It even had the plaque that said, ‘OH LORD, HELP ME THIS DAY TO KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT’ and another, which sounded like a Bible verse, ‘…THERE THE FIRE GOETH OUT. SO WHERE THERE IS NO TALE BEARER, THE STRIVE CEASETH’. Some pretty strong words… We then realised that this was the moment we were waiting for – the Tasting Booth.

We were given two bags of cream crackers and three bottles of what looked like sauces and placed them on the table. Peter’s eyes were fixed on the bottle that read ‘Sorrel Chutney’. He helped himself to a generous amount on the cracker to taste. Let’s just say after the first bite, he could not get enough of it. The heavenly taste of the Coconut Rundown Sauce made me almost pinch myself. Not to mention the Calypso Chutney – simply delicious!

As you may have guessed Walkerswood has won many awards for its work, including the Gleaner’s Business Honour Award for its impact on the farming sector in central Jamaica.  It has also been recognised by the St Ann Chamber of Commerce for its contribution to the community.

A Little Walkerswood History

Tucked away in the hills of St Ann, Walkerswood Caribbean Foods has worked to bring a taste of the Caribbean to the world with an innovative line of traditional cooking sauces, spices, seasonings, preserves and canned vegetables.

In 1976, with the assistance of the Jamaica Industrial Developoment Corporation, Walkerswood Caribbean Foods embarked on its first project of ‘jerking’ pork which it sold to

Walkerswood products.

local bars. ‘Jerk’ pork was a firm local favourite and many villagers reared pigs in their back yard. Two persons were employed. The company’s objective was to ensure that everyone in the community who wanted to work could get a decent job. The village had been losing its young people to the urban lures of Kingston and Ocho Rios.

The company was incorporated in 1978. In the next years it added other products to its range and decided to bottle its Jerk

Walkerswood Coconut Run Down Sauce and Calypso Chutney.

Seasoning for sale in 1983 – realising the wide application of the seasoning with other dishes and the religious objections that many had to eating pork. Many letters from abroad started arriving requesting the seasoning. This led the company to be the first Jamaican Exporter of jerk seasoning from 1986. Since then, Walkerswood’s range of products has grown to over 20 and includes popular sauces such as Coconut Rundown, Escoveitch Pickle Sauce and the most recent addition in 2002, a feisty little pepper sauce called ‘Firestick’.

Source – www.foodreference.com
‘Ole Time T’ings’

Ole Time Tings: Ice Grinder.

Elements of Jamaica’s rich history were still alive and well at the Ole Time T’ings House at Walkerswood. “This is what they used to grind the ice in those times”, said Claudette as she told us about the ‘ole time’ ice grinder. The house was also home to molasses in a white rum bottle, a vintage sewing machine, a coconut brush and a coconut bough broom, which was used to shine the floor.  There was also a good old white pail. Claudette told us in the evening, a hole would be dug in the earth and the pail would be filled with water and placed in the hole. By morning, the water would be as cool as if it were coming straight from a refrigerator.

She also showed us some of the spices and plants grown on the property. These included Leaf of Life, escallion, sorrel, garlic, Dog Blood, pepper and many others. To our surprise, Peter picked a Leaf of Life and ate it raw. “It tastes like Jamaican green cherries!” he exclaimed. “I’ll pass on that one”, I said. Claudette chuckled.

'Flame of the Forest'

On our way back to the car, I asked about a beautiful flower I had seen near the Spice Making Hut.  I was drawn to it by its colour – bright red petals with gold tips. That flower is called the ‘Flame of the Forest’ and  it has its origins in India we were told.  According to our guide it is said in India if a young man should “enjoy” his female partner under this flora, she would not get pregnant. Hmmmmmm.

I also enquired about a bed of leaves that seemed to be perfectly joined together. “It’s actually a pond”, said Claudette. I just stood there, astonished at how seamlessly the leaves covered every inch of the body of water. Hardly giving evidence of what might be lying underneath. Truly amazing!

If you would like to enjoy the wonders of Walkerswood, call 917-2318, or fax 917-2648.
Tours are conducted on weekday and are 45 minutes long.

Nestled between lofty trees and brawny bamboo in the humble outskirts of Fern Gully, lies a place like none other. A place where two elements join as one to form a truly therapeutic union. ‘Fire Pond’ is as the name suggests – fire on water. This secluded hide away can be found at ‘River Lane’, Windsor, St. Ann.

The natural environment and lush greenery provided a warm welcome to this hidden hotspot. The pond, about the size of a small pool, is a bubbling spring. According to Errol a.k.a. ‘Police’, caretaker of Fire Pond, the pond has healing benefits. “Scientists from all over the world have traveled here and take about 12 drum pan full of this water here. When they came back, they said it contains 24 different minerals. This water here cure sinus, fever, aches and pain, arthritis, sore throat…..”

HISTORY OF FIRE POND – (According to Legend)
One morning a long time ago, a young lady came to the pond to have her morning bath. She saw a cluster of ripe oranges hanging over the pond from a nearby tree. She decided to pick some but realised that there was a wasp nest on the oranges.

She decided to make a torch and use it to burn away the nest so she could retrieve the oranges. The stick fell from her hand and into the water. Immediately, to her fright, the water caught fire. She rushed back home screaming and told her parents that ‘duppies’ or ghosts were in the pond. Her parents later told her that no ghosts were there and that it was where slaves used to come for healing. Since then, she has been taking her bath in the pond from the time she discovered it. She was 20 years old then, and she is now 109. It has been called ‘Fire Pond’ ever since.

THE FIRE MASSAGE
I came to know exactly why the place was called ‘Fire Pond’ after a demonstration by Police. Sulphur in the water immediately ignited after Police lit his lighter near the peaceful waters, causing the water to literally ‘catch fire’. “Walk through the fire and sit in the water”, said ‘Police’ as I made my way down the steps and into the pond. While my feet were below the fire, they were massaged by a natural cavity in the bottom of the pond with what seemed to be a never ending source of bubbling water.

Now its alight … I guess I am going to have to get in…

I had some help getting into position…

I am happy to report that my experience can be summed up as: No burn – just warm relaxation.

With a wet towel made warm by the fire, a smooth rock as my pillow and the water as my bed, my fire massage started with a warm sensation on my shoulders head and hands. My back and feet were in for a treat as they were given a relaxing massage experience.

This unique massage uses heat to its advantage and leaves you feeling calm and relaxed. ‘You should not have a bath until 24 hours time ok?” said ‘Police’. That may be the only disadvantage for some personsJ.

FIRE POND… TO DI WORL’…?
Fire Pond has also been featured in two music videos, ‘Hail The King’ by Fantan Mojah and ‘Magic City’ by Buju Banton. “It deh pon all Travel Channel. I treat people from, all over the world with this water here. I drink seven handful of this water every morning and I even cook my food on it. This is not for a one man. Its for the community. Anyone who is having aches and pains, you just come to me and I’ll take care of you”, said Police’.

Fire Pond, despite the muddy exterior, is an example of one of Jamaica’s best kept secrets.

I went to Martha Brae 21 years ago on my last visit to Jamaica. It hadn’t changed at all. Which was good. A lot of bamboo had been grown and felled though since then I am sure…nature’s quickest growing ‘tree’ the stuff is everywhere along the side of the river and the many colours of its’ bark glistened in the moist atmosphere all around.

Our raftsman, singing songs of a bygone era:

This is a very tranquil trip. You glide slowly down the river for three miles – probably taking around 45 minutes in all. The rafters sing songs, recite poetry and enchant you with old African and Jamaican fables. And if you are lucky a bright souvenir seller might jump of his bicycle and run through the trees, as I pictured below:

We caught a lift back up the river to our car with the rafters. As we bumped along in the back of their truck as it pulled the rafts behind us, I hoped that I’d be back in another 21 years. Time stands still in this place – perhaps it has something to do with the echo of the rafter’s fables as they bounce around the bamboo forrest.

Handmade rafts:

Souvenir handmade rafts:

Light fantastic:

Note: This is not a trip for the adrenalin junkies. Although it’s perfect for adrenalin junkies looking for some downtime…

…or a complimentary glass of refreshing rum punch!


For reservations…
Tel: (876) 940-6398 / 940-7018 / 952-0889
E-Mail: info@jamaicarafting.com
For a little intro to the legend of Martha Brae from their official website, click here >>>
Photogallery: Click here to see more pics

This is a bit off the beaten track. Which we like. And definitely worth a visit…

Location: Negril Spots, Near Little London.
How to get there: Get between Negril Spots & Little London and ask directions to “Jurassic Park” and “The dinosaur place”
Approximate Map: Click here to visit google maps

Located in the vacinity of Orange Hill, if you search hard enough, you will find the most unlikely of pets prehistoric. Pterodactyls to be precise. It wasn’t long ago that if you searched hard enough (or not so hard) in the hills surrounding Orange Hill you would find a different kind of colourful surprise hiding amongst the bushes. Marajuana to be precise. The police have since chopped down this inspirational (allegedly inspirational!) herb (illegal narcotic) and it is no longer to be found abounding – but a visit to the nearby Jurassic park might just leave you similarly inspired:

This wiered and wonderful collection of…I am at a loss to find the precise noun…let’s call it ‘garden furniture’ is all made by hand (and hand-held blow torch) on the premises of this small park. Ornaments range from the unexpected talons of dinosaurs and lurking comical figures through to the more practical 8ft candelabra and illuminating outdoor wall hangings:

The owner wasn’t around when we stopped-by, but his workers were extremely helpful in showing us how they crafted these grand designs – and quite rightfully, with great pride. Prices are available on request – but similar to some of the exhibits, aren’t for the feint hearted. But then again, why should they be – these lovingly re-created beasts are absolutely unique and if I had enough outside space at home I’d certainly want one to surprise peaking neighbours and entertain garden guests.

If you’re passing through this area it’s well worth a detour for half an hour or so – especially if you like surreal experimental travel.

There’s a small shop next door if you want a cooling drink. And more practical souvenirs for those travelling home from Jamaica by airplane (circa 40$ US).

Oh what fun we had. I last kayaked at a PGL adventure course back in the UK, back in 1984. Digital camera’s didn’t exist. And of course the internet didn’t exist either. But it would seem that this childhood course had still prepared prepared me perfectly well for this assignment – and luckily i discovered that kayaking is just like riding a bike. You never forget the basics. Like rule 101 – capsizing!! Ahem:

Maybe we were lucky with our choice of guides, but it was a great pleasure to spend the afternoon with the Chukka crew once again. This might be their ‘job’, their 9-5, the daily-grind, the kayaking equivalent of a ‘rat-race’, but I think they enjoyed the trip down the river even more than we did. Deftly maneuvering their kayaks to pull and push the paddling public from drifting into the surrounding mangrove, or being sucked along the wrong rapid, these guys were always ready at the same time with a smile for the camera:

Plus they always had an encouraging woop to give us all confidence as we splashed and bashed our way down the river and the half a dozen gentle yet fun foamy ‘white water rapids’. The trip takes a couple of hours all-in, so you really get immersed in the local water flora fauna…and ceiling of the forrest. You see – halfway down the river you park your kayak for a while and head for the tree-tops. Sunlight splashes through the wet dense overgrowth of mangrove and bamboo as you climb into your canopy harness and ready yourself for the next part of the adventure – flying through the trees at a height of 50 plus feet! See below (but don’t look down when flying!)

Then it’s back, your body buzzing, into the kayaks. To top-it-all-off there’s, an optional, second stop along this safari – in the form of a highly strung rope dangling above the river banks. You grab it. They pull you back. Way back. And then you are hurled forwards through the air, over the river bank, you let go, your stomach goes WOH-AH! for a second – and then SPLASH! into the cool cool water and gentle current below.

Back at the ranch, jerk chicken, rice and peas was awaiting. So we paddled-back to tuck-in, on the way meeting a local fisherman who had just pulled his lunch from the same water we were kayaking in. I think you can see why the staff are always smiling.

Please note: I would say that prior experience of kayaking is not mandatory – there are many gentle meanders – but you should be confident in water. In fact, I found the water so luring that I capsized again and again (Disclaimer: Don’t try this at home. Or at Chukka. OK?)

Duration: 2hrs plus
Price: Around $100 US – contact for group bookings and tour discounts
Telephone for bookings: (876) 953-5619
Official Chukka Website: http://www.chukkacaribbean.com/MontegoBay/kayak.php
Bring: Swim wear, shorts, aqua shoes or strapped on sandals. Sun block, bug repellant, towels, money (souvenirs and snacks for sale on site)

Negril is perched right on the west coast of Jamaica. That’s right where the sun sets on this fair isle every night. Have a look:

Now, if you’re the type (like me) that likes to sit with nature and contemplate the grandeur of the Earth, the passing of the day that has gone and the days that are to come – there are many tranquil natural spots along the Negril coastline to enjoy this shining view. But if you are the type (like me again!) that wants to listen to some good music, surround yourself with friends and cocktails after leaping into the turquoise sea from the top of a cliff – then head to Rik’s Cafe.

Splosh:

Beware, it is extremely touristy (so much so that the tourists even ‘take-on’ the locals at cliff jumping. I watched as one tourist crowd tired of waiting for some kids to jump from a particularly high point, for the sum of two US dollars, and just jumped themselves screaming “this height is nothing!!”). It’s a little over the top (no pun intended) but the drinks are good and the food is tasty and they certainly have a very excellent view out to the sun. As well as a swimming pool. And shady gazebos. And waiter service throughout. And you can party into the night.

If I were to be mean, I’d say it’s a small slice of Cancun in Jamaica. If you know what I mean by that you might stay away. But having said that – some of my best nights have been in Cancun! You could always decide for yourself over a Red Stripe and the red sun…

Official Website: Click me!

Now I don’t want to be pinickety but I am going to be. Roaring river is hardly roaring. And that’s even after a few months of rain. I’d say it’s gushing laudably. The fast-paced flow spins through small bridges and mangroves, along fields and eventually down into the small colourfully-wooden-housed-village below. There was a deep green-blue hue to the water when I visited and this cooling sight along with the occasional spray were a refreshing treat as we walked up the hot forrest steps towards the caves. It was hard to resist the temptation to throw myself back down into the beckoning stream – especially as a few people were already sploshing around in the current. Nature lovers get ready – this is an idilic setting.

A garlic leaf. Identical in aroma to clove garlic:

OK, so the river didn’t roar – but the caves are definitely cavenous. Our friendly guide had spent the past decade or so taking people deep into the mouth of these rocks and he was well versed in explaining how boiling volcanic lava had met with the icy water to produce such intricate and windy passageways into the earth below. Our luck was in as on the day we arrived an almost omnipotent ray of sun streaked through the opening of the caves and onto the cave floor. I’ll say no more and let you see for yourselves:

I don’t know what it is about caves that bring out people’s imaginations, but in each of the caves I have been in I have always baffled to learn that “this 4000 year old stalactite in India looks like Ghandi” or that “These ancient granite formations in Nottingham resemble Robin Hood” and so on and so forth. It’s as if the natural beauty of geology and ‘the science bit’ that explains the uncanny creation of rocks and air pockets under the ground, from molten liquid at a temperature of 1000 degrees centigrade, isn’t enough. So I wasn’t surprised to see Bob Marley and The Lion of Judah appear like a mirage on almost every wall. Let me share the excitement with you:

I even started to get good at the apparition thing myself – and proudly pointed out this mangrove.

After a good half an hour under the earth I was kind-of missing the beating rays of the sun and the tropical heat above. On our way back we rushed up and down and even had to crouch limbo style (well, it is a national dance of Jamaica after all!) to get back through the passages we had blindly followed our guide along…and as we surfaced once more into the light we were welcomed with this rather apt shrine to the sun from the caged exit:

Enquiries and directions, call:(+1) 876-979-7987 OR 876-979-7988 for more information.
Please take note: There are lots of tour touts at the entrance. Make sure you get an official guide from the office.

The journey there:

Make sure you get your tickets & tour guide from the official complex…or bargain extremely hard! The official grounds look like this:

This place is enchanted. As the name of the beach suggests – it’s a treasure find. Sunsets from the pool as the waves crash just feet away. Your very own private Morrocan haveli perched on silver sand. Homemade delights from the gardenside, barside, poolside, terraceside restaurant. Rum punch to knock you out. Massages to pick you up. Genuinely welcoming staff, smiles and…an Apple Mac with web access! Did I mention the hand-crafted ceramics that bedeck the terrace floors and garden walls. Oh and wooden four poster beds? Self-catering kitchens. That you can help yourself to world music CDs. The list goes on and time stands still. Just go there.

Price range: A room at Jake’s will start at approximately US$ 95 for a room with garden…going up to US$ 800 for a private four bedroom cottage. Take me to the full price list…
Official website: Click here…
Guest photos: Let me see ‘em!
And don’t miss their partner restaurant opposite “Jack Spratt” – that is, if you can tear youself away from Jake’s ambience once you arrive. I must return one day….

oh my oh my oh my oh my oh…. ok i won’t bore you with more words. instead i will show you what i am talking about…. courtesy of (us at go-jamaica.com) and YouTube, I bring you Kool Running’s, Negril, Westmorlands, Jamaica, The Carrabean. Ahem – listen up…Get involved:

It’s a quarter to midnight right now and we left Kool Runnings at 3pm (it opens at 11, we were the for four hours – and didn’t see more than 2/3rds of it). Why am I writing you a mathematical style travel blog? Because I need to tell you that my adrenaline is running again after just watching these videos – 8 hours after I slid. Here’s another video just for fun:

Superfast rocket – ‘Not for the weak hearted’

As the lady who showed us around the complex said “you’d never guess that this place has these kind of attractions by looking at it from the outside” (more on that later, dear, lovely, soon hopefully to be inundated marketing person). From an English perspective and the joys of Rickmansworth waterslides, when you first set eyes on the washed-out (they have hurricanes here in Jamaica don’t you know) colours of the tubes at Kool Runnings, you might be forgiven for thinking that this is just another water tube experience. But oh no! I think it’s time for another video and a few pictures:

Underwater Journalism…

Holograms are displayed in the tubes. “We come in peace. And swimsuits…”

‘Green Grotto’ Hologram Ride Video

Did I mention the food? Jamaican Jerk (of course. Ps. it was tasty with a capital T) Eskevitch (of course, Ps. it was finger licking good!) Cheeseburger (this is an international tourist resort after all, so, of course. Ps. they even do ‘take-out’ for the journey home), fresh fruit smoothies (yum schlurp yum), and smiley smiley no problem staff…. but did I mention that all of this water and laughing and scrummyness is also helping to save the local marine life?

I have been to a few of Jamaica’s best tourist attractions so far and, despite my adrenalin, the most outstanding thing about this place seems to me that it is supporting the local tourist market… most of their visitors are domestic tourists including many local Jamaican schools (many have their end of year excursions here) and, again, as our friendly guide around Kool Running’s informed us – this is great for local kids and foreign tourist children alike… everyone gets to meet each other when they are at Kool Runnings, it’s a real mix of Jamaica and the rest of the world – all be it most of the time thrown upside down or inside out!

Let’s have another photograph or two to show you what I mean….

Kool Runnings opened in February and is currently working on making sure that local Jamaican communities on the island benefit from their success. So – for those of you interested in the Jamaican bobsled team called ‘Kool Runnings’ you should soon be able to visit these picturesque houses below and discover inside artifacts from this (unlikely) world famous Olympic and hollywood (even more unlikely) bobsled team. They will also be making space for local arty exhibitions from the Negril community.

And if water’s not your thing…don’t worry – there’s also go-karting (did I mention that we only saw and took pictures of 2/3rds of this place) and an old-fashioned carousel. There’s also a number of restaurants and a cricket-themed bar on a breezy varanda, for those that like a drink rather than swimming it. A drink or two that is (It’s tellingly called ‘not-out bar’).

Young or Old, Rain or Shine – Kool Runnings should not be missed if you are in the area. Sorry, but underwater video is not strictly allowed by guests at Kool Runnings. For this privilege you should apply for a job at The Gleaner Company Click here…

Opening Hours: Tuesday- Sunday, 11am – 7 pm.
Price: Kids US$14 – Adults US$28 (for group savings & special offers click here)
Official website: http://www.koolrunnings.com
How to get there: Kool Runnings Water Park is located on Norman Manley Boulevard in Negril, Jamaica. Just across the street from Beaches Sandy Bay Resort.

Click here for directions and map…

Text, photographs and videos by Oliver Wright