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{{Use Australian English|date=June 2020}}
 
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2014}}
{{Infobox fashion designer
|name = Sruli Recht
|imagebirth_date = =1979
|birth_place = [[Jerusalem]], Israel
|image_size =
|caption = {{deletable image-caption|Sunday, 19 July 2009|date=April 2011}}
|birth_name =
|birth_date =
|birth_place = [[Jerusalem]], [[Israel]]
|death_date =
|death_place =
|death_cause =
|resting_place =
|resting_place_coordinates =
|residence =
|nationality =
|other_names =
|education = [[RMIT University|Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology]]
|label_name = {{plainlist|
* Sruli Recht,
* Sruli Recht Shoes
|awards = Premium Young Designer Award, [[Kvosin]] competition for Reykjavik City Center, [http://idesignawards.com IDA - International Design Awards]</blockquote>
|known_for =
|occupation = [[Designer]]
|religion = [[Judaism]]
|spouse =
|partner =
|children =
|parents =
|relatives =
|signature =
|website = http://www.srulirecht.com
|footnotes =
}}
|awards = Premium Young Designer Award, [[Kvosin]] competition for Reykjavik City Center, [http://idesignawards.com IDA – International Design Awards]
'''Sruli Recht''' is an award-winning Designer, (Born 1979 in [[Jerusalem]] [[Israel]]). He is a citizen of Australia and is currently based in [[Reykjavik]] [[Iceland]]. Recht studied [[Fashion Design]] at [[RMIT University]] in Melbourne Australia, the city where he spent the majority of his life. His career began primarily in Fashion where he rapidly developed a unique style of experimental couture clothing influenced by [[Futurism]], [[Cyberpunk]], [[Constructivism (art)|Russian Constructivism]], [[Industrial design]] and [[Science-Fiction]] writing - particularly the work of [[Philip K. Dick]] and [[Bruce Sterling]]. Recht's innovative approaches to materials and new technologies, particularly in recent years, have led to products including ~Elt - the first buckle-less water-cut leather belt, and a portable [[flat pack]] cardboard Cutting Table. Recht's work is also considered by many to be controversial due in no small part to products such as theatrical garments made of [[Pinniped|Seal fur]], [[Arctic Fox]], and [[Minke Whale]] Skin.
|occupation = Designer
|website ={{url|https://srulirecht.com/}}
}}
[[File:2012 Sruli Recht corset, called "Horset", made from satin-weave horsehair.jpg|thumb|''Horset'', 2012. [[Satin]]-woven horsehair men's corset. ([[RISD Museum]])<ref name=horset/>]]
[[File:Sruli Recht - An Emperor's New Untangling, 2012. Shirt knitted from Biosteel 01.jpg|thumb|''An Emperor's New Untangling'', 2012. Knitted sheer shirt made from Biosteel, a synthesized [[spider silk]] made from genetically modified goat's milk proteins.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Staff writer |title=An Emperor's New Untangling |url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/emperors-new-untangling-2012952 |website=risdmuseum.org |publisher=RISD Museum |access-date=6 May 2022}}</ref> ([[RISD Museum]])]]
 
'''Sruli Recht''' (born 1979<ref name=horset>{{cite web |title=Horset |url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/horset-2012951 |website=risdmuseum.org |publisher=RISD Museum |access-date=6 August 2022}}</ref>) is a designer and artist based in [[Reykjavík]], Iceland. He was born in [[Jerusalem]], Israel, and holds Australian and Icelandic citizenship. {{citation needed|date=November 2021}}
==Work==
Sruli Recht's projects span [[Fashion Design]], Custom-Tailoring, [[Illustration]] and [[Industrial Design]] - a fact which often makes it hard to define his work in any simplified way. Seemingly self-aware of this fact, during a 2006 collaboration with Nimrod Weis of [http://eness.com.au/ ENESS] Design Recht published a statement to try and better define the motivations behind his work from then on called Non-Products:
 
Recht studied Fashion Design at [[RMIT University]] in Melbourne, Australia.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.theage.com.au/news/business/tailormade-art-suits-sruli/2005/09/04/1125772410149.html|title=Tailor-made art suits Sruli|date=5 September 2005|publisher=|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref>
<blockquote>
In 2005 Recht left Australia to London where he worked with British designer [[Alexander McQueen]] before relocating to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he has been based since 2005.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://jcreport.com/features/fashion-features/new-designer/2009/12/08/sruli-recht-slows-down-fashion/ |title=JC Report &#124; Inside Global Fashion Trends - FEATURES – Sruli Recht Slows Down Fashion |access-date=5 May 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120509000500/http://jcreport.com/features/fashion-features/new-designer/2009/12/08/sruli-recht-slows-down-fashion/ |archive-date=9 May 2012 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
" ''''Non-Products'''' -
 
==Work==
A specially made low run piece,
 
Recht's work is considered to be innovative in its use of indigenous, new and unconventional materials and technologies<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/wooden-clothing|title=Haute Wooden Menswear|date=23 January 2013|work=TrendHunter.com|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> though also seen by many to be controversial due to the use of materials such as [[minke whale]] foreskin, [[spider silk]], [[Pinniped|seal]] and [[Anthropodermic bibliopegy|human skin]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/801eb298-7ce4-11e0-a7c7-00144feabdc0.html#axzz2SMKhkuxw|title=London, Paris, New York, Lima?|work=[[Financial Times]]|date=13 May 2011|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref>
either hand tooled or machine made,
Although he is known mostly as a fashion designer, some garments and show pieces from his seasonal collections are seen to blur the relationships between art, design and fashion.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/22/sruli-recht-forget-me-knot-skin-ring_n_2528183.html|title=Sruli Recht, Designer, Creates 'Forget Me Knot' Skin Ring Featuring Slice Of His Own Flesh (GRAPHIC VIDEO)|date=22 January 2013|work=[[The Huffington Post]]|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref><ref name="msn.com">{{cite web|url=http://now.msn.com/sruli-recht-sells-a-pair-of-sharkskin-gloves-that-cannot-be-removed|title=MSN.com - Hotmail, Outlook, Skype, Bing, Latest News, Photos & Videos|publisher=[[MSN.com]]|access-date=16 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130911165346/http://now.msn.com/sruli-recht-sells-a-pair-of-sharkskin-gloves-that-cannot-be-removed|archive-date=11 September 2013|url-status=dead}}</ref>
 
Examples of this are:
that would lose its context as a mass produced item,
 
* Carradina: An [[auto-erotic asphyxiation]] belt made from the skin of an [[Atlantic white-sided dolphin]], provided with a hook to place on a door or handle.
and is not viable to produce in large quantities.
* Stone Blind: A pair of [[eyeglasses|frames]] with white hand-cut [[Carrara marble]] lenses, intended for the [[visually impaired]].
* A Lasting Impression: [[Gloves]] made from the skin of a [[basking shark]] with the barbs on the inside of the glove. Due to the direction of the barbs, once the glove is put on the wearer can not remove them again unless they cut the gloves off.<ref name="msn.com"/>
* The Damned: A [[pocket square]], or handkerchief, made from [[bullet-proof]] [[kevlar]], intended to be worn in the breast pocket of a suit to protect the heart.<ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2009/12/bulletproof-handkerchief-protects-a-gentlemans-heart/|title=Bulletproof Handkerchief Protects A Gentleman's Heart|date=29 December 2009|magazine=[[Wired (magazine)|WIRED]]|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref>
And arguably his most controversial piece:
*Forget Me Knot: In 2012 Recht documented a one-off surgery/performance during which a plastic surgeon removed a 110&nbsp;mm × 10&nbsp;mm strip of skin from his abdomen while he was awake. The piece of skin with the hair still attached was tanned and mounted to a 24kt gold ring<ref>{{cite AV media|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn-c7aML81I|title=Artist Sells Ring Made of Own Skin|date=25 January 2013|publisher=|accessdate=16 January 2016|via=YouTube}}</ref>{{unreliable source?|date=January 2016}}<ref>{{cite web|url=http://dianepernet.typepad.com/diane/2013/03/hard-core-not-for-the-faint-heartedforget-me-knot-rings-from-skin.html|title=Diane, A Shaded View on Fashion|access-date=16 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304104530/http://dianepernet.typepad.com/diane/2013/03/hard-core-not-for-the-faint-heartedforget-me-knot-rings-from-skin.html|archive-date=4 March 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>{{unreliable source?|date=January 2016}}
 
==Collections==
And/or An item that is in concept stage as a byproduct of the previous. "</blockquote>
His solo commercial career began with the launch of a shoe collection under the Sruli Recht label in 2007, described by [[WGSN]] as "...one of the most intriguing and imaginative footwear collections seen."{{Citation needed|date=May 2013}} This collection was highlighted by the controversial use of one boot made from [[minke whale]] skins.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.mbl.is/frettir/innlent/2011/03/15/hannar_fot_ur_forhud/ |title=Hannar föt úr forhúð|publisher= |access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> Prior to the [[2008 economic downturn]] Recht began to release one product a month under a collection titled Non-Products, while preparing to launch the main clothing line. Recht launched the seasonal clothing line in Paris in 2011 that he had developed during the crash in Iceland, in 2010 from his studio based on the outskirts of Reykjavik<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1938538,00.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091118143458/http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1938538,00.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=18 November 2009 |title=Iceland's Fashion Designers Flourish in the Downturn|date=14 November 2009|work=TIME.com |access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref>
He has been presenting as part of the [[Paris Fashion Week]] runway schedule since January 2012<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.modemonline.com/modem-mag/article/1844-sruli-recht|title=Sruli Recht - modem mag - modemonline.com|publisher=|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://nowfashion.com/archive.php?designer=-1022-&collection=&season=&location=&year=|title=Fashion Photo Galleries of all Top Designers' Latest Collections|work=NOWFASHION|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref>
 
"Luxury of Choice" is a collection released by Recht in 2020. It is a collection of 19 objects designed to be "Not an attempt to glamorize or promote taking one’s own life, but to consider [[Suicide|self-deliverance]] as a worthy act; the one that requires a sense of the personal and intimate." These objects span four main methods, listed as "by breath," "by fire," "by water," and "by earth." This collection was inspired by the suicide method of a friend of Recht's, involving a "300 kronur rope used for pulling cars."
Recht began producing commercial work as early as 1998, establishing a studio in the Melbourne suburb of Collingwood where he worked through the turn of the century primarily in the realm of fashion. Based in Melbourne his work centered around [[made-to-measure]] custom pieces however over this period he had already begun experimenting in more industrial design oriented projects including the controversial Umbuster - an [[Umbrella]] with a handle that also doubled as a [[Knuckle-duster]]. At the end of 2001 Sruli Recht formed ST Collaborate - a custom tailored futurist clothing label, with Timothy Trop - which, over a period of 3 years showed small collections and highly experimental show pieces including a sheepskin coat that fastened together with combination locks, shirts with magnetic buttons and a leather corrective neck-brace with automotive hydraulic piston.
 
In 2005 Recht left Australia to London England where he worked over 3 seasons with British designer [[Alexander McQueen]] in his Amwell St studios, cutting patterns and constructing [[Runway (fashion)#Catwalk|catwalk]] showpieces. Following this period Sruli Recht relocated to Reykjavik Iceland.
 
==Notoriety==
Now based in Reykjavik his work continues along lines of blurred relationships between various schools of Design - fashion/industrial etc. and whose byproducts have a darker ironic and aggressive subtext relating to social dis/function and [[sustainability]]. Examples of this include the production of a full-sized [[Polar Bear]] skin fashioned out of 15 [[Icelandic sheep]]skins, a buckle-less belt eliminating the need to remove it at [[airport security]] or a [[Limited edition#Limited edition|limited-edition]] run of [[bulletproof]] [[Handkerchiefs]] made of [[Kevlar]]&mdash;all thinly veiled social commentaries and primarily focused on design and concept rather than [[mass production]] and broad commercial appeal.
 
''Wallpaper'' magazine selected Recht's store Vopnabúrið, an Icelandic word for "the Armoury", among the ten most interesting shops in the world in 2010, along with stores such as Hermes in New York, Comme de Garçons in Hong Kong and the Stella McCartney store in Milan.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/vopnaburid-i-hop-bestu-verslana-heims/article/2011880096743 |title=Vopnabúrið í hóp bestu verslana heims|date=9 January 2011|work=[[visir.is]] |access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref>
In addition to this Recht has also ventured into Shoe Design, producing his first collection in 2007 for 2008 which was critically acclaimed internationally by the media but also attracted considerable controversy due mainly to one particular model "Hvalsforhúðsskór"- a limited-edition shoe fabricated from the foreskins of Minke Whale penises.
 
Recht's studio was raided by the Icelandic police in August 2009 where they seized stock of The Umbuster (a combination of an umbrella and brass knuckles) and charged Recht with prohibited weapons importation, prohibited weapons manufacture, and intent to sell prohibited weapons.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/akaerdur-fyrir-brot-a-islenskum-vopnalogum-vegna-regnhlifar/article/2010440742746|title=Ákærður fyrir brot á íslenskum vopnalögum vegna regnhlífar|author=Þorbjörn Þórðarson|date=5 October 2010|work=[[visir.is]]|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> Recht initially lost the case brought against him by the police, though appealed, while at the same time opening a new case with the supreme court of Iceland to de-categorise The Umbuster as a weapon. In October 2010 Recht won the case, the court deciding that The Umbuster was not a weapon, and was acquitted of the earlier charges.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/sruli-syknadur-af-thvi-ad-flytja-inn-hnuajarn/article/2010319116065|title=Sruli sýknaður af því að flytja inn hnúajárn - Vísir|date=10 July 2010 }}</ref>
<blockquote>
''"His boots are works of art in leather and form" - [[Tokion]] Magazine</blockquote>
<blockquote>
''"...the designs appear to be from another time and another world." - [http://www.indesignlive.com/ Indesign Magazine]</blockquote>
<blockquote>
''"A fairytale for fashion shoes" - [[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]] Pelle Italia </blockquote>
<blockquote>
''"...one of the most intriguing and imaginative footwear collections seen." - [http://www.wgsn.com/ WGSN]</blockquote>
<blockquote>
''"Sruli Recht has only gone and created the reason we have feet." - [http://www.bornemagazine.com/ Borne Magazine]</blockquote>
 
==Publications==
Recht's approach to new mediums and materials have resulted in several cutting edge projects such as the 2004 [[new media art]] collaboration with [http://www.holographics.com.au/unfurl.html Martina Mrongovius] created the two large-format rainbow transmission [[hologram]]s of his garments, title UNFURL, for the [http://www.experimenta.org/ Experimenta] New Visions Commission interactive media art exhibition [http://www.experimenta.org/vanishingpoint/index.htm VANISHING POINT]
*''Randscharf – On the Cutting Edge'' – Design in Iceland, Gestalten
*''Shoe Design'' – Overview of contemporary shoe designers, Daab Publishing
*''Outside The Box, Cardboard Design Now'' – International packaging design, Black Dog Publishing
*''Hello, Mr. Package !'' – International packaging design focusing on male designers, SendPoint Publishing
*''Magma'' – Magma / Kvika Contemporary Iceland Design 2007
*''Magic Packaging'' – International packaging design, Designer Books
*''Art of Package Design'' – International packaging design, Ginko Press
*''Doppelganger'' – Images of the Human Being, Gestalten
 
==InfluencesInterviews==
*[http://www.core77.com/blog/object_culture/interview_with_designer_sruli_recht_part_1_macrobiotic_fractal-based_production_methods_and_more_16315.asp Core77 – Three part interview]
Recht often cites his influences as largely literary, drawing particularly from Cyberpunk novels such as Bruce Sterlings [[Schismatrix]] and [[Shaper/Mechanist]] series and [[William Gibson]]'s [[Sprawl trilogy]]. He has regularly stated in interviews that the writings of authors such as Bruce Sterling and [[William Morris]] have informed his work on various levels. An example of this would be in the similarly styled short prose of his first shoe collection ''"...I Have Walked"'' whose dark and textured visuals create a backdrop for each design.
 
==CollaborationsReferences==
{{Reflist}}
Sruli Recht is an avid collaborator who often works simultaneously with other Designers and Design Houses and Artists across a broad range of mediums. Past and present collaborators include:
 
==External links==
- Icelandic photographer [http://marinot.com/ Marinó Thorlacius]
* [http://www.srulirecht.com Sruli Recht Homepage]
 
{{Authority control (arts)}}
- British Eyewear Design House [http://www.olivergoldsmith.com Oliver Goldsmith]
 
- [http://eness.com.au/ ENESS] Design of Melbourne Australia
 
- Icelandic packaging designer Snorri Már Snorrason
 
- [[CCP Games]], the creators of the largest [[Massively multiplayer online game|MMO]] game in the world - [[EVE-Online]], in Reykjavik Iceland
 
- Dutch Shoe Designer [http://www.alexanderfielden.com Alexander Fielden]
 
- [http://www.mundidesign.net/ Mundi Designs]
 
- Icelandic record label [http://bedroomcommunity.net Bedroom Community]
 
- [http://www.krads.info/ Krads Architecture]
 
==Publications==
* [http://www.icelanddesign.is/english/ Magma] - Contemporary Icelandic Design
* [http://www.daab-online.com/books/fashion/Link_zu:_Shoe_Design.html Shoe Design] - Overview of contemporary shoe designers, Daab Publishing
* [http://blackdogonline.com/all-books/outside-the-box.html Outside The Box, Cardboard Design Now] - International packaging design, Black Dog Publishing
* [http://www.kengseng.com/newbklist.asp?bkid=490&catid=7 Hello, Mr. Package !] - International packaging design focusing on male designers, SendPoint Publishing
* [http://www.designerbooks.com.cn/Product/4873.html Magic Packaging] - International packaging design, Designer Books
* [http://www.amazon.com/Package-Design-Sandu-Cultural-Media/dp/1584234342/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1295807317&sr=8-3 Art of Package Design] - International packaging design, Ginko Press
* [http://shop.gestalten.com/doppelganger.html Doppelganger] - Images of the Human Being, Gestalten
 
==External links==
* [http://www.srulirecht.com Homepage]
* [http://dumbofeather.com/ Dumbo Feather] {{cite web | url = http://www.exacteditions.com/exact/browse/465/539/3450/2/13 | title = Interview with Sruli Recht | accessdate = 2007-10-05 | author = Kate Bezar | work = Dumbo Feather Magazine, Issue 13}}
* [http://allicblog.blogspot.com All I C] {{cite web | url = http://allicblog.blogspot.com/2008/03/after-my-oct-post-about-sruli-retch.html | title = Interview with Sruli Recht | accessdate = 2008-03-31 | author = O Stelios | work = All I C Male Modishish Ideas }}
* [http://www.thefashionspot.com The Fashion Spot] {{cite web | url = http://www.thefashionspot.com/front-row/1/interview-with-designer-sruli-recht-429 | title = Interview with Sruli Recht - The Cutter of the North | accessdate = 2008-07-12 | author = Elena Krylova | work = The Fashion Spot}}
* [http://www.forumaid.com/ Forum AID] {{cite web | url = http://www.forumaid.com/eng/_issue_/08/issue_3/filtered/ | title = Design Is a Perversion | accessdate = 2008-09-15 | author = Benedicte Andersson | work = FORUM AID - Arkitektur, Inredning och Design i Norden - 3.08}}
* [http://www.ttsmag.com The Tastemakers Society] {{cite web | url = http://www.ttsmag.com/2008/09/22/sruli-recht/ | title = Sruli Recht | accessdate = 2008-09-22 | author = Manny Blocker | work = The Tastemakers Society}} {{Dead link|date=October 2010|bot=H3llBot}}
 
{{Persondata <!-- Metadata: see [[Wikipedia:Persondata]]. -->
| NAME = Recht, Sruli
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES =
| SHORT DESCRIPTION =
| DATE OF BIRTH = 1979
| PLACE OF BIRTH = [[Jerusalem]], [[Israel]]
| DATE OF DEATH =
| PLACE OF DEATH =
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Recht, Sruli}}
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Icelandic fashion designers]]
[[Category:21st-century Icelandic artists]]
[[Category:21st-century Israeli Jews]]
[[Category:Australian expatriates in Iceland]]
[[Category:Australian designers]]
[[Category:Australian fashion designers]]
[[Category:IcelandicArtists designersfrom Melbourne]]
[[Category:People from Melbourne]]
[[Category:1979 births]]
[[Category:21st-century Australian expatriates in IcelandJews]]
[[Category:Artists from Jerusalem]]
[[Category:Icelandic Jews]]
[[Category:RMIT University alumni]]
[[Category:Jewish fashion designers]]
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