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{{Short description|Manufacture and design of hats and headwear}}
{{Short description|Manufacture and design of hats and headwear}}
{{Redirect2|Hatter|Hatmaker||Hatter (disambiguation)}}
{{Redirect|Hatter|Hatter (disambiguation)}}
{{Redirect|Hatmaker|the unincorporated community|Hatmaker, Michigan|the author and speaker|Jen Hatmaker}}
{{Redirect|Milliner|people named Milliner|Milliner (surname)}}
{{Redirect|Milliner|people named Milliner|Milliner (surname)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2013}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2022}}
{{wikt | millinery}}
[[File:Millinery Deaprtment, second floor, Summit St.; The Lion Store, Toledo, O. - DPLA - b299683c9a281410af279a3384bdb23a (page 1) (cropped).jpg|thumb|right|Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s]][[File:Edgar Degas - The Millinery Shop - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|''[[The Millinery Shop]]'' by Edgar Degas]]
[[File:Millinery Deaprtment, second floor, Summit St.; The Lion Store, Toledo, O. - DPLA - b299683c9a281410af279a3384bdb23a (page 1) (cropped).jpg|thumb|right|Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s]][[File:Edgar Degas - The Millinery Shop - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|''[[The Millinery Shop]]'' by Edgar Degas]]
'''Hat-making''' or '''millinery''' is the [[fashion design|design]], manufacture and sale of [[hat]]s and headwear.<ref>{{Cite journal|date=November 1916|title=Millinery as a Trade for Women|journal=Monthly Review of the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics|volume=3|issue=5|pages=32–38|jstor=41823177}}</ref> A person engaged in this trade is called a '''milliner''' or '''hatter'''.
'''Hat-making''' or '''millinery''' is the [[fashion design|design]], manufacture and sale of [[hat]]s and other headwear.<ref>{{Cite journal|date=November 1916|title=Millinery as a Trade for Women|author=Perry, Lorinda|journal=Monthly Review of the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics|volume=3|issue=5|pages=32–38|jstor=41823177}}</ref> A person engaged in this trade is called a '''milliner''' or '''hatter'''.


Historically, milliners made and sold a range of accessories for clothing and hairstyles.<ref>{{oed|milliner}} - "2. Originally: a seller of fancy wares, accessories, and articles of (female) apparel, esp. such as were originally made in Milan. Subsequently: spec. a person who designs, makes, or sells women's hats."
Historically, milliners, typically women shopkeepers, produced or imported an inventory of garments for men, women, and children and sold these garments in their millinery shop. Many milliners worked as both milliner and fashion designer, such as [[Rose Bertin]], [[Jeanne Lanvin]], and [[Coco Chanel]].
</ref> In France, milliners are known as ''marchand(e)s de modes'' ([[fashion merchant]]s), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialise in hats by the beginning of the Victorian period.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Adburgham |first=Alison |title=Shops and shopping: 1800 - 1914 ; where, and in what manner the well-dressed Englishwoman bought her clothes |date=1989 |publisher=Barrie & Jenkins |isbn=978-0-7126-2114-4 |edition=2nd |location=London |pages=27}}</ref>


The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the nineteenth century.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2009-03-26|title=Straw Millinery|url=https://annaworden.com/pdf-pages/straw-bonnet-links/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=If I Had My Own Blue Box|language=en}}</ref> In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since the mass-manufacturing of hats began, the term milliner is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele.
The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the nineteenth century.<ref>{{Cite web|date= 2009-03-26|title= Straw Millinery|url=https://annaworden.com/pdf-pages/straw-bonnet-links/|access-date= 2020-10-22|website= If I Had My Own Blue Box|language=en}}</ref> In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in [[Department store|department stores]], the term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele.


Many prominent [[fashion designer]]s, including [[Rose Bertin]], [[Jeanne Lanvin]], and [[Coco Chanel]], began as milliners.
⚫
The term milliner, originally from “Milener”, originally meant someone from Milan, in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In the 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of milliner gradually changed from a foreign merchant to a dealer in small articles relating to dress. Although the term originally applied to men, milliner came to mean a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other headgear for women since 1713.<ref>{{Cite web|title=milliner {{!}} Origin and meaning of milliner by Online Etymology Dictionary|url=https://www.etymonline.com/word/milliner|access-date=2020-10-22|website=www.etymonline.com|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Tréguer|first=Pascal|date=2016-08-12|title=The word ‘milliner’ originally meant ‘native or inhabitant of Milan’.|url=https://wordhistories.net/2016/08/12/milliner/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=word histories|language=en-GB}}</ref>

==Origin==
⚫
The term "milliner" or "Milener" originally meant someone from [[Milan]], in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In the 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of "milliner" gradually changed in meaning from "a foreign merchant" to "a dealer in small articles relating to dress". Although the term originally applied to men, from 1713 "milliner" gradually came to mean a woman who makes and sells [[Bonnet (headgear)|bonnet]]s and other accessories for women.<ref>{{Cite web|title=milliner, Origin and meaning of milliner by Online Etymology Dictionary|url=https://www.etymonline.com/word/milliner|access-date=2020-10-22|website=etymonline.com|language=en | quote = The original milliners were men; by 1713 the word was being used of 'a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other headgear for women,' and this was the prevailing sense of the word 19c.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last= Tréguer|first= Pascal|date= 2016-08-12|title= The word 'milliner' originally meant 'native or inhabitant of Milan'.|url=https://wordhistories.net/2016/08/12/milliner/|access-date=2020-10-22 |website= word histories|language=en-GB}}
</ref>


== Learning of millinery ==
== Learning of millinery ==
Milliners work independently based on job order specifications or their designs, observing the regulations regarding work safety, health protection, environmental protection, and ensuring quality and efficiency. They combine their uniqueness, innovation, and technical skills and use different materials and auxiliary materials. In some cases, they plan and organize their schedules in cooperation with their customers' various needs. They also collaborate with the team or the apprentice to the presentation and sale of the products.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Milliner|url=https://innovativeapprenticeship.org/oc_st_post/milliner/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=American Institute for Innovative Apprenticeship|language=en-US}}</ref>
Milliners work independently based on job order specifications or their designs, observing the regulations regarding work safety, health protection, environmental protection, and ensuring quality and efficiency. They combine their uniqueness, innovation, and technical skills and use different materials and auxiliary materials. In some cases, they plan and organize their schedules in cooperation with their customers' various needs. They also collaborate with the team or the apprentice to the presentation and sale of the products.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Milliner|url=https://innovativeapprenticeship.org/oc_st_post/milliner/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=American Institute for Innovative Apprenticeship|language=en-US}}</ref>


The millinery industry's apprenticeship culture is commonly seen since the 18th century, while milliner was more like a stylist and created hats or bonnets to go with costumes and chose the laces, trims, and accessories to complete an ensemble piece. Millinery apprentices learned hat-making and styling, running the business, and skills to communicate with customers.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Vintage Fashion Guild : Fashion History : History Of Hats For Women|url=https://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/the-history-of-womens-hats/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=vintagefashionguild.org}}</ref> Nowadays, this apprenticeship is still a standard process for the students who freshly graduated from the millinery schools. Many well-known milliners experienced this stage. For example, [[Rose Bertin]] was an apprentice to a successful milliner Mademoiselle Pagelle before her success.
The millinery industry's apprenticeship culture is commonly seen since the 18th century, while milliner was more like a stylist and created hats or bonnets to go with costumes and chose the laces, trims, and accessories to complete an ensemble piece. Millinery apprentices learned hat-making and styling, running the business, and skills to communicate with customers.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Vintage Fashion Guild : Fashion History : History of Hats For Women|url=https://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/the-history-of-womens-hats/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=vintagefashionguild.org}}</ref> Nowadays, this apprenticeship is still a standard process for the students who freshly graduated from the millinery schools. Many well-known milliners experienced this stage. For example, [[Rose Bertin]] was an apprentice to a successful fashion merchant Mademoiselle Pagelle before her success.


There are many renowned millinery schools located in Europe, especially in London, Paris, and Italy. During the [[COVID-19 pandemic|COVID-19]], many millinery courses were taught virtually.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Upcoming Events – Millinery CoursesMillinery Courses|url=http://hatcourses.com/events/category/european-courses/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Millinery Courses|language=en-US}}</ref> For instance, Hat academy is one of the online-based millinery platform providing different millinery deluxe and essential courses via a subscribe system.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Millinery Courses|url=https://shop.hatacademy.com/collections/millinery-courses|access-date=2020-10-22|website=How To Make Hats Millinery Classes {{!}} Hat Academy|language=en}}</ref>
There are many renowned millinery schools located in Europe, especially in London, Paris, and Italy. During [[COVID-19 pandemic|COVID-19]], many millinery courses were taught virtually.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Upcoming Events – Millinery CoursesMillinery Courses|url=http://hatcourses.com/events/category/european-courses/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Millinery Courses|language=en-US}}</ref>

In some British post-colonized countries such as [[Australia]], [[Singapore]], and [[Hong Kong]], English is a commonly used language; millinery is well-known craftsmanship and fashionable for special occasions.

The Sasa [[Ladies' Purse]] Day Races organized by the [[Hong Kong Jockey Club|Hong Kong Jockey club]] is an extravagant event with catwalks, games, and competitions offering ladies a chance to wear their millinery.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Sa Sa Ladies’ Purse Day - Beijing Clubhouse - 香港賽馬會|url=https://www.beijingclubhouse.com/en-US/home-sasa2018.aspx?b_cid=EWBHHOG_3_HORSE|access-date=2020-10-22|website=www.beijingclubhouse.com|language=zh-Hant-HK}}</ref> Milliners also will get this opportunity to showcase their millinery collections performed by the celebrities.


== Special tools and materials used by milliners ==
== Special tools and materials used by milliners ==
'''Wooden [[Hat block|Hat Block]]''' is an intricately carved wood form shaped by skillful woodworkers. Hat blocks are the tools of the trade for milliners in creating a unique hat crown shape. Some of the hat blocks are ensembles with crown and brimmed, while some are only with crown or brim or designed for fascinators. Milliners always have an extensive collection of different hat blocks because there are specific hat sizes and custom shapes for every hat block. In the blocking process of a hat, milliners used push pins and a hammer to hold the adjustable string along the crown's collar and the brim's edge.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Blocker Shapes and Styles the Hats — Brent Black Panama Hats|url=https://www.brentblack.com/pages/tour2_page_15.html|access-date=2020-10-22|website=www.brentblack.com}}</ref>
A wooden [[hat block]] is an intricately carved wood form shaped by skillful woodworkers. Hat blocks are the tools of the trade for milliners in creating a unique hat crown shape. Some of the hat blocks are ensembles with crown and brimmed, while some are only with crown or brim or designed for [[fascinator]]s. Milliners always have an extensive collection of different hat blocks because there are specific hat sizes and custom shapes for every hat block. In the blocking process of a hat, milliners used push pins and a hammer to hold the adjustable string along the crown's collar and the brim's edge.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Blocker Shapes and Styles the Hats – Brent Black Panama Hats|url=https://www.brentblack.com/pages/tour2_page_15.html|access-date=2020-10-22|website=brentblack.com}}</ref>


'''Floral making Iron''' is a unique iron used by milliners to create different floral petals or leaves as the [[Ornament (art)|ornament]] for hat decoration. Candles heat these irons in the past with various shapes of metal in one set. Nowadays, these electric irons are detachable on the metal session and allow for a changeable condition for ironing. A ball-shaped metal heading is commonly used for the curve of floral pastels.<ref>{{Cite web|title=flower making iron|url=https://presentperfectcreations.com/category/flower-making-iron/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=PresentPerfect Creations {{!}} Original hand crafted flower accessories in fine fabrics and genuine leather|language=en-GB}}</ref>
A floral-making iron is a unique iron used by milliners to create different floral petals or leaves as the [[Ornament (art)|ornament]] for hat decoration. In the past, candles were used to heat these irons with various shapes of metal in one set. Nowadays, these irons are electric. A ball-shaped metal heading is commonly used for the curve of floral pastels.<ref>{{Cite web|title=flower making iron|url=https://presentperfectcreations.com/category/flower-making-iron/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=PresentPerfect Creations {{!}} Original hand crafted flower accessories in fine fabrics and genuine leather|language=en-GB}}</ref>


Milliners often use [[buckram]], a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horse hair) cloth with a loose weave. Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a [[hat block]], and left to dry into a hard shape.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Hart |first1=Eric |title=The Prop Building Guidebook: For Theatre, Film, and TV |date=2013 |publisher=Taylor & Francis |isbn=9780240821382 |page=292 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=TSx5VSRqbfgC&pg=PA292 }}</ref> Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats),<ref>{{cite journal |title=The Copyist |journal=The Illustrated Milliner |date=July 1913 |volume=14 |issue=7 |page=68 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_wlQAAAAYAAJ&pg=RA3-PA86 |access-date=8 October 2019 |publisher=The Illustrated Milliner Company }}</ref> single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as ''theatrical buckram'' or ''crown buckram'').<ref>{{cite newsletter |last=McMasters |first=Lynn |title=Buckram 101 |journal=Finery |date=1 November 2005 |url=http://www.gbacg.org/finery/2005/buckram-101/ |access-date=8 October 2019 |publisher=Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild}}</ref>
== Unique types of hats made in the East and West ==

''See also, [[list of headgear]]''

Many styles of headgear have been popular throughout history and worn for different functions and events. They can be part of uniforms, worn to indicate social status or styled for particular religion occasions.

=== Straw hats ===
[[Straw hat]]s give the main purpose in protecting the head from the sun and keeps cool, various shapes of the straw hats exist around the world for different reasons. [[File:Paja toquilla man.jpg|thumb|''[[Paja toquilla]]'' hat-maker, [[Cuenca, Ecuador|Cuenca]], [[Ecuador]]]] A [[bergère hat]] is a particular Straw hat which originated in France with a shallow crown and trimmed with ribbon and flowers as decoration. Although the bergère hat has rural simplicity and was known as a [[milkmaid hat]], it was fashionable in the mid -18th century. This hat is common to be seen on the portraits of monarchs such as the portrait for [[Marie Antoinette]] painted by [[Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun|Vigee-Leburn]] in 1783.<ref>{{Cite web|title=History's Most Iconic Hats|url=https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/inspire-me/historys-most-iconic-hats/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=English Heritage}}</ref>

The straw hat in [[Africa]] came in a multi-functional form, such as from acting as a basket for cropping, shade from the smoldering heat, protection from the rain, and diverts to animals to attract attention, expressing creativity, and showing status. It also worked as a significant cultural symbol in costume for various regional ceremonies, such as the [[Fulani hat]].

In [[Ancient China]], Weimao was one of the most idiosyncratic veiling straw coverings during the [[Sui dynasty|Sui]] and early [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] periods originally used by the nomadic peoples of [[Central Asia]] as a protection against the wind and [[sand blaster]]. The Weimao was quickly adopted by the women of Sui and Tang China. Their prominence would not only remain in China but would spread to other [[East Asia]]n cultures as well.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Weimao & Mili: Chinese Veil Hat 帷帽|url=http://dragonsarmory.blogspot.com/2019/04/weimao-chinese-veil-hat.html|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Weimao & Mili}}</ref>

In [[History of Japan|Japan]], this type of straw hat was commonly worn by the noble ladies in the [[Heian period|Heian]] period. They are slightly different from the Weimao, this veil hats are longer with a lengthened to the hips and knees. The purpose of this hat is designed to prevent passer-bys to see the features of the noble ladies. The Japanese version of the Weimao was called Uchikatsugi<ref>{{Cite web|title=Untitled|url=https://fate-magical-girls.tumblr.com/post/174458774609/okiya-an-uchikatsugi-is-a-long-veiled-headdress|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Untitled}}</ref> or more generally as the Ichime gasa. Besides the Ichime gasa, Japanese widely use the straw hat for different personal identification. For example the [[Kasa (hat)|Kasa]] used by the low ranking [[samurai]], [[Asian conical hat|conical straw hat]] worn by the monk during their daily practice and Amikasa worn by female dancers during the [[Awa Dance Festival|Awa Odori]] Festival in the summer.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2010-12-04|title=Amigasa|url=https://bartman905.wordpress.com/2010/12/04/amigasa/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Konnichiwa|language=en}}</ref>

In [[South America]], [[Panama hat]]s are famous for their intricate weaving and blocking techniques. However, these hats originated from [[Ecuador]] for the invention and production until the late 19th century when the Ecuadorian hat makers emigrated to Panama for better business. Their Panama hats are bestselling for the gold prospectors traveling through Panama to [[California]] for the historic [[California Gold Rush]].{{citation needed|date=March 2021}}

[[File:Fur industry- hat-making, Canadian voyageurs. ( 1858- ).jpg|thumb|Canada's early fur trade was largely built on the fashion for [[beaver hat]]s in Europe, particularly [[top hats]]. The steps in manufacturing hats are illustrated in this image from 1858.]]

===Feathers and furry hats===
A great variety of feathers and skins are or formerly were used as decoration or [[Trim (sewing)|trimmings]] on women's fashionable hats.

In the early 1900s, feathers, wings, and whole stuffed birds were used as hat trimmings.<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Saikku|first=Mikko|date=Autumn 1990|title=The Extinction of the Carolina Parakeet|journal=Environmental History Review|volume=14|issue=3|pages=9|doi=10.2307/3984724|jstor=3984724}}</ref> [[Plume hunting]] was so popular that the indiscriminate shooting of birds in search for the [[snowy egret]] contributed to the extinction of the [[Carolina parakeet]].<ref name=":0" /> Excessive plume hunting like this led to the formation of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds ([[RSPB]]) and the passage of the [[Lacey Act of 1900]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.fws.gov/refuges/history/bio/finley.html|title=William L. Finley|date=November 6, 2019|website=U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service|access-date=November 8, 2019}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Bird Hats? {{!}} Wearing the Weight of the World|url=https://blogs.ntu.edu.sg/hp3203-2017-27/a-brief-history/birds-on-hats/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=blogs.ntu.edu.sg}}</ref>

With references to 1880s newspaper issues, describes trims on fashionable hats as including bird feathers, stuffed birds, and other small animals, fruit, flowers, ribbons, and lace.<ref name=wk>{{Cite web|title=When Kittens' Head Hats Were All the Rage|url=http://messybeast.com/kitten-hat-craze.htm|access-date=2020-10-22|website=messybeast.com}}</ref> It described a fashion for stuffed kittens' heads as hat ornaments in or around 1883 in Paris (France), often posed looking out from among foliage and feathers, to the point where some people were reported to breed kittens for the millinery trade.<ref name=wk/> This practice was also reported as happening in America.<ref>[[The Bulletin (Australian periodical)]] Vol. 1 No. 37 (26 Jan 1884): [https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-238404718/view?sectionId=nla.obj-704993970&partId=nla.obj-238408908#page/n19/mode/1up (top of leftmost visible column)]</ref>

[[Bearskin]] Hats is a tall fur cap, originating from the [[grenadier]]s in European armies during the 17th century. The hat is featured with the fur trimmings. After [[World War I]], the bearskins were worn by the [[Royal guard]]s and armies for specific ceremonials in most of the European countries, such as Britain, Belgium, Denmark, Germany, Sweden, Italy and Russian. Besides military purpose, the bearskin hats were featured in the [[London Fashion Week|London Fashion week]] Spring Summer 2020 by fashion designer Rebecca Shamoon inspired by the Queen’s fashion Guards.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Grace|first=Karen|date=2019-11-11|title=London Fashion Week SS20 – Designers with Hats|url=https://www.eclipsemagazine.co.uk/london-fashion-week-ss20-designers-with-hats/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Eclipse Magazine|language=en-GB}}</ref>

While most of the [[bearskin]]s are in black colors, the bearskin hat for the [[Thai Royal Guard|Thai royal guard]] showed a colorful hue in cooperating with their uniforms.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2016-10-13|title=Thailand's King Bhumibol Adulyadej dies aged 88|url=https://www.ibtimes.co.uk/thailands-king-bhumibol-adulyadej-dies-aged-88-1585640|access-date=2020-10-22|website=International Business Times UK|language=en}}</ref>


==Notable hatters and milliners==
==Notable hatters and milliners==
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* [[John Cavanagh (hatter)|John Cavanagh]], an American hatter whose innovations included manufacturing regular, long and wide-oval fitting hats to enable customers to find better-fitting ready-to-wear hats.
* [[John Cavanagh (hatter)|John Cavanagh]], an American hatter whose innovations included manufacturing regular, long and wide-oval fitting hats to enable customers to find better-fitting ready-to-wear hats.
* [[James Lock & Co.]] of London (founded 1676), is credited with the introduction of the [[bowler hat]] in 1849.<ref name="Telegraph">[https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/8043423/Bowler-hat-makes-a-comeback.html Bowler hat makes a comeback] Telegraph (London). Retrieved 9 June 2012</ref>
* [[James Lock & Co.]] of London (founded 1676), is credited with the introduction of the [[bowler hat]] in 1849.<ref name="Telegraph">[https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/8043423/Bowler-hat-makes-a-comeback.html Bowler hat makes a comeback] Telegraph (London). Retrieved 9 June 2012</ref>
* [[JJ Hat Center]] in New York (founded 1911) an American hat maker, which claims to be New York City's oldest hat store.<ref name="NY Times">[https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2008/03/02/nyregion/0302subcityvisible_index.html The City Visible | The Hatters] NYT (New York). Retrieved 4 August 2023</ref>
⚫
* [[John Batterson Stetson]], credited with inventing the classic [[cowboy hat]]<ref name="Reynolds 1995 Pg 8">Reynolds, William and Rich Rand (1995) The Cowboy Hat book. Pg 8 {{ISBN|0-87905-656-8}}</ref>
* [[Teofilo Garcia]], recognized as a [[National Living Treasures Award (Philippines)|National Living Treasure]] in the [[Philippines]] for pioneering the ''tabungaw'' hat, a headwear made from [[gourd]].<ref name="gamaba-en">{{cite web |last1=Tobias |first1=Maricris Jan |title=GAMABA: Teofilo Garcia |url=https://ncca.gov.ph/about-culture-and-arts/culture-profile/gamaba/national-living-treasures-teofilo-garcia/ |publisher=National Commission for Culture and the Arts |access-date=14 September 2021 |archive-date=26 January 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220126164339/https://ncca.gov.ph/about-culture-and-arts/culture-profile/gamaba/national-living-treasures-teofilo-garcia/ |url-status=dead }}</ref>
⚫
* [[John Batterson Stetson]], credited with inventing the classic [[cowboy hat]]<ref name="Reynolds 1995 Pg 8">Reynolds, William and Rich Rand (1995) ''The Cowboy Hat book''. p. 8 {{ISBN|0-87905-656-8}}</ref>
* [[Borsalino|Giuseppe Borsalino]], with the famous "Borsalino" [[Fedora]] hat.
* [[Borsalino|Giuseppe Borsalino]], with the famous "Borsalino" [[Fedora]] hat.


===Milliners===
===Milliners===
* [[Vanilla Beane]] was an American milliner in [[Washington, D.C.]] who served the [[African American]] community and notable [[Civil rights movement|civil rights activists]], among others.
* Akio Hirata is the most influential milliner in Japan who collaborated with many Japanese famous fashion designers, including [[Yohji Yamamoto]] and [[Rei Kawakubo]]. He also created and designed hats for Japanese [[Empress Michiko]] since 1966.<ref>{{Cite web|last=FashionModelDirectory.com|first=The FMD-|title=Akio Hirata - Fashion Designer {{!}} Designers {{!}} The FMD|url=https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/akio-hirata/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com}}</ref>
* Akio Hirata is the most influential milliner in Japan who collaborated with many famous Japanese fashion designers, including [[Yohji Yamamoto]] and [[Rei Kawakubo]]. He also created and designed hats for Japanese [[Empress Michiko]] since 1966.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Akio Hirata – Fashion Designer {{!}} Designers {{!}} The FMD|url=https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/akio-hirata/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com}}</ref>
* [[Anna Ben-Yusuf]] wrote ''The Art of Millinery'' (1909), one of the first reference books on millinery technique.<ref name="hats">Jones, Stephen & {{cite book| last = Cullen| first = Oriole (editor)| title = Hats: An Anthology| publisher = V&A Publishing| year = 2009| isbn =978-1-85177-557-6}}</ref>
* [[Anna Ben-Yusuf]] wrote ''The Art of Millinery'' (1909), one of the first reference books on millinery technique.<ref name="hats">Jones, Stephen & {{cite book| editor-last = Cullen| editor-first = Oriole | title = Hats: An Anthology| publisher = V&A Publishing| year = 2009| isbn =978-1-85177-557-6}}</ref>
* [[Rose Bertin]], milliner and modiste to [[Marie Antoinette]], is often described as the world's first celebrity fashion designer.<ref>{{cite book|last=Steele|first=Valerie|title=The Berg Companion to Fashion|year=2010|publisher=Berg|isbn=978-1847885920|pages=72–73|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&pg=PA72 <!--|author=Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell-->|author-link=Rose Bertin|access-date=9 June 2012}}</ref>
* [[Rose Bertin]], milliner and modiste to [[Marie Antoinette]], is often described as the world's first celebrity fashion designer.<ref>{{cite book|last=Steele|first=Valerie|title=The Berg Companion to Fashion|year=2010|publisher=Berg|isbn=978-1847885920|pages=72–73|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&pg=PA72 <!--|author=Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell-->|author-link=Rose Bertin|access-date=9 June 2012}}</ref>
* [[Coco Chanel]], creator of the fashion house Chanel, and of [[Chanel No.5]].
* [[Coco Chanel]], creator of the fashion house Chanel, and of [[Chanel No.5]].
* [[John Boyd (Milliner)|John Boyd]] was one of London's most respected milliners and is known for the famous pink tricorn hat worn by [[Diana, Princess of Wales]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/john-boyd/|title=John Boyd|work=The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com}}</ref>
* [[John Boyd (Milliner)|John Boyd]] was one of London's most respected milliners and is known for the famous pink tricorn hat worn by [[Diana, Princess of Wales]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/john-boyd/|title=John Boyd|work=The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com}}</ref>
* [[Lilly Daché]] was a famous American milliner of the mid-20th century.
* [[Lilly Daché]] was a famous American milliner of the mid-20th century.
* [[Frederick Fox (milliner)|Frederick Fox]] was an Australian born milliner noted for his designs for the British Royal family.
* [[Frederick Fox (milliner)|Frederick Fox]] was an Australian born milliner noted for his designs for the British Royal family.
* [[Mildred Blount]] is the first African American milliner to design hats for Hollywood films "[[Gone with the Wind (film)|Gone with the Wind]]' and '[[The Easter Parade]].' Her clientele included [[Joan Crawford]], [[Louise Beavers]], [[Marian Anderson]], [[Gloria Vanderbilt]], and other Hollywood stars.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-09-07|title=Mildred Blount: First African American to Make Hats for Celebrities|url=http://blackthen.com/mildred-blount-first-african-american-to-make-hats-for-celebrities/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Black Then|language=en-US}}</ref>
* [[Mildred Blount]] is the first African American milliner to design hats for Hollywood films "[[Gone with the Wind (film)|Gone with the Wind]]' and '[[The Easter Parade]].' Her clientele included [[Joan Crawford]], [[Louise Beavers]], [[Marian Anderson]], [[Gloria Vanderbilt]], and other Hollywood stars.<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-09-07|title=Mildred Blount: First African American to Make Hats for Celebrities|url=http://blackthen.com/mildred-blount-first-african-american-to-make-hats-for-celebrities/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Black Then|language=en-US}}</ref>
* [[Mr. John]] was an American milliner considered by some to be the millinery equivalent of [[Christian Dior|Dior]] in the 1940s and 1950s.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F0CEED71E3DF93AA15755C0A965958260|title=Mr. John, 91, Hat Designer for Stars and Society|date=29 June 1993}}</ref>
* [[Mr. John]] was an American milliner considered by some to be the millinery equivalent of [[Christian Dior|Dior]] in the 1940s and 1950s.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F0CEED71E3DF93AA15755C0A965958260|title=Mr. John, 91, Hat Designer for Stars and Society|work=The New York Times |date=29 June 1993|last1=Schiro |first1=Anne-Marie }}</ref>
* [[Stephen Jones (milliner)|Stephen Jones]] of London, is considered one of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.<ref name=vambio>[http://www.vam.ac.uk/microsites/hats-anthology/the-exhibition/stephen-jones.html Biography of Stephen Jones] on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009</ref>
* [[Stephen Jones (milliner)|Stephen Jones]] of London, is considered one of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.<ref name=vambio>[http://www.vam.ac.uk/microsites/hats-anthology/the-exhibition/stephen-jones.html Biography of Stephen Jones] on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009</ref>
* [[Simone Mirman]] was known for her designs for [[Elizabeth II]] and other members of the British Royal Family.
* [[Simone Mirman]] was known for her designs for [[Elizabeth II]] and other members of the British Royal Family.
* [[Barbara Pauli]] was the leading fashion milliner and modiste in Sweden during the [[Gustavian era]].
* [[Barbara Pauli]] was the leading fashion milliner and modiste in Sweden during the [[Gustavian era]].
* [[Caroline Reboux]] was a renowned milliner of the 19th and early 20th centuries.
* [[Caroline Reboux]] was a renowned milliner of the 19th and early 20th centuries.
* [[David Shilling]] is a renowned milliner, artist and designer based in Monaco.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://articles.latimes.com/1985-10-13/magazine/tm-15535_1_david-shilling | title=Hat Trick | work=[[LA Times]] | date=13 October 1985 | access-date=24 January 2013 | author=Hillier, Bevis| author-link=Bevis Hillier }}</ref>
* [[David Shilling]] is a renowned milliner, artist and designer based in Monaco.<ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1985-10-13-tm-15535-story.html | title=Hat Trick | newspaper=[[LA Times]] | date=13 October 1985 | access-date=24 January 2013 | author=Hillier, Bevis| author-link=Bevis Hillier }}</ref>
* [[Justin Smith (milliner)|Justin Smith]] is a milliner creating bespoke and couture hats under the J Smith Esquire brand.
* [[Justin Smith (milliner)|Justin Smith]] is a milliner creating bespoke and couture hats under the J Smith Esquire brand.
* [[Philip Treacy]] Irish-born milliner; first milliner for 80 years to be invited to exhibit at the Paris haute couture shows.<ref name="guar">{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2002/apr/16/fashion|title=Who wants to be a milliner|publisher=[[The Guardian]]|author=Jess Cartner-Morley|date=16 April 2002|quote=He has created hats to accompany the catwalk collections of Alexander McQueen and Valentino, has been named British Accessory Designer of the Year five times, and was the first milliner in 80 years to be invited by French fashion's governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, to take part in the Parisian haute couture shows}}</ref>
* [[Philip Treacy]] Irish-born milliner; first milliner for 80 years to be invited to exhibit at the Paris haute couture shows.<ref name="guar">{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2002/apr/16/fashion|title=Who wants to be a milliner|work=[[The Guardian]]|author=Cartner-Morley, Jess |date=16 April 2002|quote=He has created hats to accompany the catwalk collections of Alexander McQueen and Valentino, has been named British Accessory Designer of the Year five times, and was the first milliner in 80 years to be invited by French fashion's governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, to take part in the Parisian haute couture shows}}</ref>

*[[Gladys Tamez]] is a Mexican-American milliner notable for her work with [[Beyoncé]], [[Lady Gaga]], [[Kendall Jenner]], among others.


==See also==
==See also==
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[[Category:Hat making| ]]
[[Category:Hatmaking| ]]
[[Category:Hat makers| ]]
[[Category:Hats]]
[[Category:Hats]]
[[Category:Milliners|*]]
[[Category:Fashion occupations]]
[[Category:Fashion occupations]]

Latest revision as of 03:42, 15 August 2024

"Hatter" redirects here. For Hatter (disambiguation), see Hatter (disambiguation).
"Hatmaker" redirects here. For the unincorporated community, see Hatmaker, Michigan. For the author and speaker, see Jen Hatmaker.
"Milliner" redirects here. For people named Milliner, see Milliner (surname).

Look up millinery in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s
The Millinery Shop by Edgar Degas

Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear.[1] A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter.

Historically, milliners made and sold a range of accessories for clothing and hairstyles.[2] In France, milliners are known as marchand(e)s de modes (fashion merchants), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialise in hats by the beginning of the Victorian period.[3]

The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the nineteenth century.[4] In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in department stores, the term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele.

Many prominent fashion designers, including Rose Bertin, Jeanne Lanvin, and Coco Chanel, began as milliners.

Origin

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The term "milliner" or "Milener" originally meant someone from Milan, in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In the 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of "milliner" gradually changed in meaning from "a foreign merchant" to "a dealer in small articles relating to dress". Although the term originally applied to men, from 1713 "milliner" gradually came to mean a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other accessories for women.[5][6]

Learning of millinery

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Milliners work independently based on job order specifications or their designs, observing the regulations regarding work safety, health protection, environmental protection, and ensuring quality and efficiency. They combine their uniqueness, innovation, and technical skills and use different materials and auxiliary materials. In some cases, they plan and organize their schedules in cooperation with their customers' various needs. They also collaborate with the team or the apprentice to the presentation and sale of the products.[7]

The millinery industry's apprenticeship culture is commonly seen since the 18th century, while milliner was more like a stylist and created hats or bonnets to go with costumes and chose the laces, trims, and accessories to complete an ensemble piece. Millinery apprentices learned hat-making and styling, running the business, and skills to communicate with customers.[8] Nowadays, this apprenticeship is still a standard process for the students who freshly graduated from the millinery schools. Many well-known milliners experienced this stage. For example, Rose Bertin was an apprentice to a successful fashion merchant Mademoiselle Pagelle before her success.

There are many renowned millinery schools located in Europe, especially in London, Paris, and Italy. During COVID-19, many millinery courses were taught virtually.[9]

Special tools and materials used by milliners

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A wooden hat block is an intricately carved wood form shaped by skillful woodworkers. Hat blocks are the tools of the trade for milliners in creating a unique hat crown shape. Some of the hat blocks are ensembles with crown and brimmed, while some are only with crown or brim or designed for fascinators. Milliners always have an extensive collection of different hat blocks because there are specific hat sizes and custom shapes for every hat block. In the blocking process of a hat, milliners used push pins and a hammer to hold the adjustable string along the crown's collar and the brim's edge.[10]

A floral-making iron is a unique iron used by milliners to create different floral petals or leaves as the ornament for hat decoration. In the past, candles were used to heat these irons with various shapes of metal in one set. Nowadays, these irons are electric. A ball-shaped metal heading is commonly used for the curve of floral pastels.[11]

Milliners often use buckram, a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horse hair) cloth with a loose weave. Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a hat block, and left to dry into a hard shape.[12] Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats),[13] single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as theatrical buckram or crown buckram).[14]

Notable hatters and milliners

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This is a partial list of people who have had a significant influence on hat-making and millinery.

Hatters

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Milliners

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See also

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References

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  1. ^ Perry, Lorinda (November 1916). "Millinery as a Trade for Women". Monthly Review of the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. 3 (5): 32–38. JSTOR 41823177.
  2. ^ "milliner". Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University Press. (Subscription or participating institution membership required.) - "2. Originally: a seller of fancy wares, accessories, and articles of (female) apparel, esp. such as were originally made in Milan. Subsequently: spec. a person who designs, makes, or sells women's hats."
  3. ^ Adburgham, Alison (1989). Shops and shopping: 1800 - 1914 ; where, and in what manner the well-dressed Englishwoman bought her clothes (2nd ed.). London: Barrie & Jenkins. p. 27. ISBN 978-0-7126-2114-4.
  4. ^ "Straw Millinery". If I Had My Own Blue Box. 26 March 2009. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  5. ^ "milliner, Origin and meaning of milliner by Online Etymology Dictionary". etymonline.com. Retrieved 22 October 2020. The original milliners were men; by 1713 the word was being used of 'a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other headgear for women,' and this was the prevailing sense of the word 19c.
  6. ^ Tréguer, Pascal (12 August 2016). "The word 'milliner' originally meant 'native or inhabitant of Milan'". word histories. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  7. ^ "Milliner". American Institute for Innovative Apprenticeship. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  8. ^ "Vintage Fashion Guild : Fashion History : History of Hats For Women". vintagefashionguild.org. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  9. ^ "Upcoming Events – Millinery CoursesMillinery Courses". Millinery Courses. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  10. ^ "The Blocker Shapes and Styles the Hats – Brent Black Panama Hats". brentblack.com. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  11. ^ "flower making iron". PresentPerfect Creations | Original hand crafted flower accessories in fine fabrics and genuine leather. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  12. ^ Hart, Eric (2013). The Prop Building Guidebook: For Theatre, Film, and TV. Taylor & Francis. p. 292. ISBN 9780240821382.
  13. ^ "The Copyist". The Illustrated Milliner. 14 (7). The Illustrated Milliner Company: 68. July 1913. Retrieved 8 October 2019.
  14. ^ McMasters, Lynn (1 November 2005). "Buckram 101". Finery. Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild. Retrieved 8 October 2019.
  15. ^ Bowler hat makes a comeback Telegraph (London). Retrieved 9 June 2012
  16. ^ The City Visible | The Hatters NYT (New York). Retrieved 4 August 2023
  17. ^ Tobias, Maricris Jan. "GAMABA: Teofilo Garcia". National Commission for Culture and the Arts. Archived from the original on 26 January 2022. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
  18. ^ Reynolds, William and Rich Rand (1995) The Cowboy Hat book. p. 8 ISBN 0-87905-656-8
  19. ^ "Akio Hirata – Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  20. ^ Jones, Stephen & Cullen, Oriole, ed. (2009). Hats: An Anthology. V&A Publishing. ISBN 978-1-85177-557-6.
  21. ^ Steele, Valerie (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion. Berg. pp. 72–73. ISBN 978-1847885920. Retrieved 9 June 2012.
  22. ^ "John Boyd". The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com.
  23. ^ "Mildred Blount: First African American to Make Hats for Celebrities". Black Then. 7 September 2019. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  24. ^ Schiro, Anne-Marie (29 June 1993). "Mr. John, 91, Hat Designer for Stars and Society". The New York Times.
  25. ^ Biography of Stephen Jones on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009
  26. ^ Hillier, Bevis (13 October 1985). "Hat Trick". LA Times. Retrieved 24 January 2013.
  27. ^ Cartner-Morley, Jess (16 April 2002). "Who wants to be a milliner". The Guardian. He has created hats to accompany the catwalk collections of Alexander McQueen and Valentino, has been named British Accessory Designer of the Year five times, and was the first milliner in 80 years to be invited by French fashion's governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, to take part in the Parisian haute couture shows
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