Papers by Pascal Bruniaux
2005-2006 > Academic research: refereed > Refereed conference pape
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International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, Jul 1, 2019
Abstract Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts in fashion design and producti... more Abstract Garment pattern-making is one of the most important parts in fashion design and production. However, the traditional pattern-making is an experience based work and very time-consuming. In this paper, we proposed a parametric design method of garment pattern based on body dimensions. Based on this method, we constructed a jeans' pattern recommendation system. The input items of the proposed system are three geometric constraint parameters (jean silhouette type, length and waist height) and three-dimensional constraint parameters (human body stature, waist girth and hip girth); the output of the proposed system are jeans' patterns. Also, four adjustable parameters (jeans' length, waist height, knee and leg opening) are designed to adjust patterns generated by the proposed system. If the jeans' pattern is not satisfying after virtual or real try-on, the adjustable input parameters of the proposed system can be applied for adjustment until the patterns are acceptable. Our proposed system can combine traditional pattern-making methods to generate jeans’ patterns automatically and rapidly, hence improving pattern-making efficiency significantly.
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Textile Research Journal, Jul 26, 2022
The 2D pattern-making methods which are entirely based on body measurements are widely used and p... more The 2D pattern-making methods which are entirely based on body measurements are widely used and practiced to design garments in today’s digital environment. Such a method is highly criticized due to a lack of consideration for the body's different morphological and anthropometric data. However, such a method would be effective with many precise and repetitive adjustments and with the help of manual expert know-how. For the last few decades, designers have also used a garment designing technique that is carried out directly on a physical mannequin or fashion model, called the draping technique. The current study is devising and implementing a digital garment design technique in the 3D pattern-making process to create and fit the human body morphology in a 3D digital environment. This technique is based on the analysis of 2D pattern-making methods used by model makers. It also highlights the morphological contour and anthropometric links that have been used to develop a similar method in a 3D environment. However, the proposed methods are performed directly on the 3D wearer's morphology as in the manual 3D draping techniques, which avoids morphological interpretation errors. Such a process helps to control the fit of the 3D garment by determining the ease allowance. Besides, the methods integrated a 3D zoning technique to improve the 3D modelling and to ensure the best possible drape and analysis between the garment and the wearer's body. Further work is required to validate the block pattern for general application based on various parameters including fabric, garment style, body position, etc.
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Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 2021
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Advances in Complex Systems, Mar 1, 2006
This study aims to develop a realistic mathematical model of fabric. In contrast to other studies... more This study aims to develop a realistic mathematical model of fabric. In contrast to other studies on fabric modeling as a deformable surface, the model described in this article takes into account the geometry of the object. Moreover, it integrates the nonlinear phenomena of the dynamic behavior of material. As input parameters, the weaving data that define the 3D structure of the object and the mechanical properties of the yarn that express its dynamics are used. Thus, the fabric model is composed of a geometrical model of fabric (structure) on which a model of yarn (material characterization) is added. This hypothesis may be reasonable since a fabric shows the result of a three-dimensional assembly of yarns judiciously disposed. Since these yarns interact dynamically: the main difficulty consists of defining the yarn model. In our case, it is composed of various nonlinear functions representing the dynamic behavior of yarn. In order to characterize the flexibility of material, the weight, the elasticity and any other mechanical characteristics defining the relation between the strain and the stretching out of the shape should be taken into account. Firstly, several works dealing with realistic mathematical models of fabric are described. A taxonomic classification is achieved in order to position our study (in comparison to the scientific community). Secondly, the model of the fabric is described. A geometrical model of the object is presented. It allows one to dimension the object in a 3D space and then to position it at its initial state. Subsequently, a nodal model of yarns is described, step by step, in order to demonstrate the separability of the various dynamic behaviors. These nodal links make it simple to integrate the proposed model in the global geometrical model. Thus, the methods of numerical resolution used to simulate the complete model of the fabric are exposed. One method is selected and used in order to improve the performances of the fabric simulator and to obtain better stability. Several simulations illustrate the quality of the results obtained.
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The International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology, Feb 26, 2022
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Defence Technology, Dec 1, 2021
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Journal of The Textile Institute, Apr 18, 2023
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International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Jul 7, 2022
PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to build a mathematical model of men’s wear prototype, so tha... more PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to build a mathematical model of men’s wear prototype, so that the computer can draw men’s wear prototype automatically.Design/methodology/approachFirst, the bust line, front and back center line, waist line, side seam, front chest width and back width line in the coordinate system are expressed by equations. Then, a parabola is used to establish a neckline curve, a linear equation is used to establish a shoulder oblique line, and a double ellipse is superposed to construct the armhole arc. Finally, all the garment prototype curves are built mathematical models.FindingsThe result shows that every curve of garment prototype can be expressed approximately by mathematical model.Originality/valueThis research lays the foundation for the automation and intelligence of garment pattern-making.
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This paper will focus on the issue of human body dissimilarity detection from 3D bodyscan. A new ... more This paper will focus on the issue of human body dissimilarity detection from 3D bodyscan. A new 3D human body shape descriptor is proposed as well as a global geometric shape analysis of body shape surfaces coupled with anthropometrics points. The aim of this research is then to establish a new methodology of human body morphology shapes detection in order to define the morphotypes of a given population. A computation of the geodesic distributions based on anthropometrics feature points for human torso provides quantitative information about their similarities. The Euclidean distance is the metric used for the comparison of the shape descriptors. The k-means clustering technique is then implemented to define the most relevant morphologies. Our methodology is then evaluated on 3D scan database of 53 female. The study may be attracted for further researchers from several research communities including pattern recognition, computer graphics, computer vision, anthropometry, human morphology, data analysis and mass customization.
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Textile Research Journal, Jan 24, 2022
Focusing on the “human–sport-clothing” system, this paper analyzed the influence of combinations ... more Focusing on the “human–sport-clothing” system, this paper analyzed the influence of combinations of different tights and sport states on human body parts and overall body comfort from multiple dimensions. However, the motion state and some fabric parameters are non-numerical parameters, which could not be used for model analysis directly. In addition, there are too many numerical fabric parameters whose relationships are complicated, and it is difficult for general models to deal with these relationships, resulting in low accuracy of the comfort prediction model. Moreover, when using the artificial neural network to study comfort, it has some difficulties in expressing comfort and low prediction accuracy. To solve these problems, One-Hot was used to encode non-numerical parameters, and then intelligent algorithms were adopted to deal with these complex fabric parameters. Finally, a comfort prediction model was established in combination with an adaptive fuzzy reasoning system. The results showed that different fabric combinations and motion states had significant effects on local comfort (comfort of specific human body parts) and global comfort (whole body comfort). Moreover, the prediction model with non-numerical parameters has higher accuracy than the model without non-numerical parameters, which indicated that the prediction accuracy of the model had been improved after the introduction of One-Hot coding, so the non-numerical parameters cannot be ignored. The particle swarm optimization algorithm-cuckoo search algorithm-adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system hybrid model was superior to the particle swarm optimization algorithm-adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system and cuckoo search algorithm-adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system model in predicting local comfort and global comfort.
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Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Oct 31, 2017
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IEEE Access, 2019
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Textile Research Journal, Oct 4, 2017
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IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management, Apr 1, 2023
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Proceedings of the 19th World Textile Conference - Autex 2019, Aug 14, 2019
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IOP conference series, Jul 1, 2019
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International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, 2016
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Papers by Pascal Bruniaux