Collar construction

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Here's the first collar of my collar theme month! :) It might look like 3 collars one on top of the other but in reality I created the effect by layering. There's a little facing underneath each layer. As I ended up making the collar piece higher, I also needed to raise the collar stand height by the same amount. (That 4,5cm refers to the final height at c.b.). I also changed the inclination of the collar tip by 0,5cm. The second picture shows how to trace all the pieces. The undercollar m...

Here's the first collar of my collar theme month! :) It might look like 3 collars one on top of the other but in reality I created the effect by layering. There's a little facing underneath each layer. As I ended up making the collar piece higher, I also needed to raise the collar stand height by the same amount. (That 4,5cm refers to the final height at c.b.). I also changed the inclination of the collar tip by 0,5cm. The second picture shows how to trace all the pieces. The undercollar…

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Mens Jacket Pattern, Sewing Form, Shirt Collar Pattern, Sewing Collars, Tailoring Techniques, Sew Ins, Jacket Pattern Sewing, Garment Pattern, Pattern Drafting

One issue that comes up with these large 19th century coat collars is how to apply the top collar fabric. "What are the issues?", you ask- well, first an explanation of the standard jacket collar and how the top fabric is traditionally applied. The traditional suit undercollar is a one piece pattern in which one edge joins to the neckline of the coat and folds along a predetermined roll line, to form the fall of the collar. These have a stand that usually ranges from 2.5cm to 3.5cm deep. The…

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