Street Capoeira and The Memorialization-92034388
Street Capoeira and The Memorialization-92034388
Street Capoeira and The Memorialization-92034388
doi:10.3368/lbr.59.1.143 143
Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
ISSN 0024-7413 • e-ISSN 1548-9957
© 2022 by the Board of Regents of the
University of Wisconsin System
144 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
S aturday, September 15, 2012, was one of those beautiful spring days in Rio
de Janeiro, a perfect 26 Celsius, neither too hot nor humid, or cold. When
approaching the site of the Valongo Wharf late in the morning, I noticed the
gentle breeze and thought: This is ideal weather for a capoeira street roda! It
was just after noon when Mestra Janja from Salvador, one of the most senior
female capoeira mestres of Capoeira Angola and an engaged activist for
Black and gender equality, opened the ritual circle or roda (where capoeira is
performed). She sang a traditional litany (ladainha) that sought to spiritually
prepare participants for the performance, whilst at the same time requesting
ancestral permission and benevolence. She was playing the gunga, or Brazilian
musical bow (berimbau), with the deepest sound. To her left stood Mestre
Célio, leader of the capoeira group Aluandê, playing the medium berimbau,
and next to him, on the viola, the musical bow with the highest pitch, Mestre
Carlão, the organizer of this third roda on the Valongo Site in Rio’s port area.
The capoeira orchestra was complemented by two tambourines, an agogô
(double metal bell), a wooden scrapper and an atabaque drum, played by other
mestres, teachers and advanced students. M Janja switched to a louvação (praise
song), and then to a corrido, which allows games to begin. Two experienced
capoeiristas, Mestre Moura from Caxias and Contramestre Coqueiro, were
crouched at the feet of the musical bow players. They had been accompanying
Janja’s praise song with inviting theatrical gestures, contributing to the opening
of the ritual space of the roda and now started the first game.
This third roda at the Valongo location was well attended by over fifty
capoeiristas (practitioners) plus a number of onlookers. In the middle of the
performance, Mestre Carlão stopped the roda to graduate a British student of
his, Charley, to become a “treinel,” in other words qualified to teach capoeira.
As custom demands, Charley had to play various mestres or advanced students
in a row to prove his skills. At the end of the roda, everybody descended the
steps towards the recently unearthed cobble stones of the former Valongo
Quay, where hundreds of thousands of enslaved Africans were disembarked
between 1774 and 1831 to serve their new mestres. An elderly Black lady most
people only knew as Tia Lúcia sang a very sad song in Portuguese: “O mar o
mar que trouxe vocês, escravos, tristeza que chorou, deixou tua pátria para
aqui morrer, . . .”1
In my perception, this event signaled an important step in the coming
together of capoeiristas of different skin color, class, and neighborhoods from
Rio de Janeiro, as well as visitors, to remember capoeira’s roots in Africa and
the enslavement Africans endured in Brazil. As an academic I also felt happy
to have contributed to the whole event with a talk that took place prior to
the roda, in which I had tried to summarize some findings from an ongoing
research project about the Angolan Roots of capoeira. The talk thematized the
Assunção 145
sale of enslaved Africans took place near the governmental palace, now
Paço Imperial, situated on Praça Quinze de Novembro. In the 1770s, these
activities were transferred to the Valongo beach, at the time still a suburb.
To facilitate disembarkation of enslaved Africans from slave ships anchored
in Rio harbor a stone quay was erected in 1811. The area became known as
the Valongo Wharf, as it was surrounded by warehouses, some of which
served as slave markets. The enslaved Africans went through quarantine,
health checks and recovery in this area. The stigmatization of the whole
neighborhood dates from this period, as contemporaries complained about
the smell of decomposing bodies of enslaved people who failed to recover
from the Middle Passage and whose corpses were disrespectfully dumped in
a mass grave nearby, known as the Cemitério dos Pretos Novos, or thrown
into the surrounding mangroves.17 With the formal (although not actual)
abolition of the transatlantic slave trade in 1831, the Valongo Wharf was
deactivated and the now illegal trade moved to more discreet locations
along the coast of Rio province. In 1843, the Valongo Quay was covered over
by another stone quay for the reception of the Bourbon princess Theresa,
who was to marry the Brazilian Emperor Pedro II, and thus its very name
disappeared from maps.
Due to landfills in the port zone the area became more distant from the
waterfront, and in the twentieth century the former Valongo site was trans-
formed into a square, the Praça Jornal do Comércio, erasing any memory of
the former infamous trade. The port itself, along the waterfront next to the
three old neighborhoods Saúde, Gamboa and Santo Cristo, was to a large extent
deactivated in 1970 because it could not be adapted to receive containers. Since
the nineteenth century the whole port area, including these neighborhoods
and the nearby Morro da Providência—the first favela, consisting of impro-
vised sheds on a steep hill considered unfit for conventional buildings—came
to be considered, in social terms, a marginal zone.18 Although all port areas
usually are stigmatized zones, as they contain red-light districts, in the case
of Rio this stigmatization extended well beyond the waterfront area itself to
include entire neighborhoods.
In contrast to the city center, most of this area was inhabited by
Afro-Brazilians, which of course contributed to its low esteem in the eyes of
the white elite. However, this area, known as “Pequena África” also became
a cradle of samba, the Afro-Brazilian cultural form consecrated as a symbol
of national Brazilian identity in the 1930s.19 The location known as Pedra do
Sal, home to some famous composers, was declared “national heritage” in
1987.20 The port area also was famous for its capoeiras in various moments of
its history, from Prata Preta, a leader of the Saúde neighborhood during the
1904 anti-vaccination riot, to the Bahian port workers who maintained the
legendary Central Station roda in the 1950s and 1960s.21
Assunção 149
The long neglect of the port area was only reinforced during the period of
the military dictatorship; the most significant “development” consisted in the
erection of a raised motorway (Perimetral) linking the city center to the main
exit road (Avenida Brasil), in 1970. The Perimetral further fragmented the port
area and contributed to the degradation of the squares and streets on which it
was superimposed. All these interventions contributed to the development of a
peculiar urban geography in central Rio de Janeiro, a deleterious split between
the port area and the neighboring business district known as the “Centro.”22
The economic bonanza of the 2000s and the successful bid for two interna-
tional sporting mega-events by the Lula government (2003–2010) provided the
opportunity for an attempt to revitalize and modernize the port area and inte-
grate it into the city. A consortium, Companhia de Desenvolvimento Urbano
da Região do Porto do Rio de Janeiro (CDUPR), was set up to implement the
“Porto Maravilha” plan. While its declared aims were full of promises for a
better life for the area’s poorer residents and the rescue of its cultural heritage,
critics saw it rather as a plan to transform the whole area “into a pleasure space
for the entertainment of a globalized elite.”23
However, even though only 3% of CDURP’s budget was dedicated to cul-
tural projects, cultural initiatives in the area grew in importance over the last
decade because of the involvement of a number of other social actors, interested
in the rescue of the port area’s cultural heritage. The 2000s were marked by
an impressive revival of repressed memories of Black oppression, such as the
excavations of the Valongo Wharf and the nearby Cemetery of New Blacks.
As mentioned, thousands of dead bodies had been dumped there until at least
1831.24 Later, houses were built on the site, erasing it from maps and public
memory. The dead only “returned” in the 1990s, when the owners of one
townhouse discovered human remains while carrying out a renovation. They
actively engaged in its rescue and ended up transforming the small house and
an adjacent building into a site of memory, which is still in private ownership
but now also hosts an association, the Instituto dos Pretos Novos (IPN). The
“Valongo Complex,” comprising this cemetery, the Valongo Wharf, and an
adjacent small park, is developing fast as a lieu de mémoire, or memory site,
for the horrors of the transatlantic slave trade to Brazil. As Vassalo and Cicalo
have pointed out, this sudden “patrimonialization” can be explained by the
intersection of the “gradual assertion of multi-culturalism and ethnic-racial
diversity” and the revitalization projects, resulting in the active involvement
not only of city planners and administrators, but also of militants of the Black
Movement and committed academic researchers.25 All three groups agreed on
the importance of defusing negative representations of the port area, even if not
for the same motives. It was in this context of massive urban transformation
and battles over its direction and meaning that capoeira street rodas started
to be held in the Port and other central areas.
150 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
schedule of only one roda each Friday or Saturday of every month, timetable
clashes and enhanced competition between mestres were avoided. Second, all
participating mestres encouraged their own students to go to the other street
rodas, and often attended themselves. This increased the number of capoei-
ristas (practitioners) attending every roda. The result was a greater intensity
of performance, and a higher technical level of play (with more experienced
players present), which in turn helped to attract the general public. The more
people gathered, the more the street roda became visible to workers in the
area, passers-by, and tourists. Yet the significance of these street rodas went
well beyond audience numbers.
Many mestres emphasize that holding a roda in the street reconnects them to
the earlier traditions of capoeira. As explained above, before the establishment of
modern groups and academies, capoeira rodas always happened in the street. In
the words of M Cláudio, a Black mestre responsible for the roda on São Salvador
square, in a predominantly white middle-class neighborhood: “O Rio de Janeiro
sempre teve uma característica de roda de rua no passado. Penha, Quinta e a
roda da Central. Essas são as rodas que eu peguei ainda [before they stopped
happening in the 1980s].”29 At the same time, the rodas in the streets today are
different from previous street rodas. Now one particular mestre assumes overall
responsibility for organization, whereas before they were more spontaneous,
with no single person in charge. Mestre Cláudio, born in 1954, and hence the
senior of the Connection, makes a distinction between a “street roda” (roda de
rua) of former times and a “roda in the street” (roda na rua) by an organized
group that usually trains indoors.30 In terms of this distinction, Connection
events would be more correctly characterized as rodas in the street.
It is important to emphasize the difference between a roda in the street
and the rodas in the closed spaces of schools, gyms or “academies.” Not only
is the audience more restricted in the latter, but the whole “energy” is differ-
ent. In the street roda, as Mestre Célio explains: “Você está devolvendo ao
povo o que é dele de fato [. . .] A manifestação cultural tem que estar na rua.”
“Incorpora mais a coisa [. . .] A ancestralidade está muito mais presente [. . .]
A energia positiva” [está na rua]. Porque a capoeira não nasceu na academia,
mas na rua, na feira, no carnaval.”31 This different energy in the street comes
at a price, of course. Rodas in the street are by definition unpredictable. One
never knows who is going to enter the roda or who may want to start a fight.
A street roda therefore requires great skills from the mestre and his assistants
in charge, and the ability to avoid open fights or other types of problems. In
downtown Rio, for example, rodas may have to compete with other events,
loud music, and noise. Drunken people often enter the roda and have to be
dealt with. Contramestre Fábio relates that when they started to hold the street
roda underneath the Arco do Teles, arrangements had to be negotiated with
the people sleeping rough or vendors on the square and in the adjacent street.32
152 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
The attendance at some rodas has been greater than at others. The Roda
do Lavradio, which takes place in the middle of busy street market in the
central Lapa district, usually attracts many practitioners. Another reason is
the approach taken by its organizer, Mestre Célio:
Having been present at several rodas there, I can confirm that Lavradio attracts
large number of practitioners from all styles and also from all over the city,
suburbs and periphery. Other mestres used different means to attract new
audiences: for example, a complementary cultural programme. The Arco do
Teles roda is always followed by a samba-de-roda, the rural, Bahian form of
samba, which has been historically associated with capoeira in that state of
Brazil. As CM Fabio explains:
Foi ai que percebi também q tinha muito capoeirista que no final fazia samba,
mas fazia samba capenga, que era samba pela metade. Um samba que era mis-
turado, um samba de caboclo, de Zeca Pagodinho, de Martinho da Vila com
capoeira, era um samba muito misto [. . .] Então a gente começou a procurar
o samba rural mesmo, do Recôncavo baiano, do Sertão, do interior da Bahia
mesmo [. . .].34
Figure 1.
There is no doubt that one of the great achievements of the Carioca Con-
nection was the increased visibility of capoeira in the public space: the streets
of Rio. This was further enhanced by the effective use of social media, film,
and photography. Each roda was amply publicized on Facebook. A gifted
photographer, Maria Buzanovsky, invested much of her time in the systematic
coverage of street rodas. As Mestre Carlão remembers, “A mídia social ajudou
muito. As fotos da Maria, inegável. Trouxeram uma . . . foi uma redescoberta
da capoeira pela fotografia, porra, de alto nivel. Ela descobriu uma questão
muito legal dos ángulos, que ela pegou do [Pierre] Verger.”35 After each roda,
selected photos of the games were posted on social media. Mestre Carlão also
obtained support from a cameraman and filmmaker, Guilherme Begué, who
edited four-to-five-minute clips with highlights of the Valongo roda, which
154 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
Figure 2.
were also posted and became popular, given the high quality of the camera-
work, the skillful combination of talks and games, and the use of slow motion
and other techniques (see links to clips in the Appendix below). This internet
presence boosted the visibility of the rodas, in particular the Valongo roda,
and further increased attendance.
Although the Valongo roda started on 14 July 2012 as an improvised event,
relying only upon the support of volunteers, Mestre Carlão subsequently
managed to obtain financial support. In 2013, CDURP launched, together
with the municipal administration of Rio de Janeiro (prefeitura) the award
“Porto Maravilha Cultural” as a way to incentivize local cultural initiatives.
Mestre Carlão submitted the project “O Porto Importa—Memórias do Cais
do Valongo” (“The Port Matters—Memories of the Valongo Quay”). He
Assunção 155
Figure 3.
obtained funding later that year which allowed him not only to continue with
the three monthly “circles” already happening for more than a year, but also
to document the whole project through three new outputs: a photo exhibition
of Maria Buzanovsky’s work, a documentary film, and a book.36 While the
funding further enhanced the visibility of the Valongo roda, however, it also
enhanced disparities between the different rodas of the Carioca Connection,
and ultimately played a part in its demise.
Figure 4.
greater in street rodas. Hence the question arises as to what extent street rodas
can play a role in the memorialization of slavery and contemporary struggles
over its legacy. I am aware of the many possible meanings of “memory,” and
the inflationary use of this concept.37 However, given the gap between the
growing historiography on slavery and the popular perception of the slave past,
in particular among capoeira practitioners in Brazil, the distinction between
history and memory is still useful. By “memorialization,” I refer to the grow-
ing importance, in practitioners’ discourses and practices, of slavery as key
to understanding contemporary Brazilian issues such as inequality, racism,
and violence. As scholars have pointed out, memory is often associated with
the remembering of traumatic events.38 Subjectivity no doubt plays a greater
role in capoeira memory as opposed to historiography, where “vibes” are not
Assunção 157
Figure 9. Roda do Lavrádio with Mestre João Grande (Photo by Rui Zilnet).
160 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
Figure 10. Roda do Valongo with Mestre Graffit (Photo by Maria Buzanovsky).
slavery, the politics of erasure go back much further. For at least a century
after the abolition of slavery (1888), the dominant version of history was that
slavery in Brazil had been “milder” than elsewhere, that Brazil enjoyed a “racial
democracy” and that racial discrimination there was not systematic. This
only began to change with the growth of the Black Movements and the rapid
expansion of a revisionist historiography on slavery in Brazilian universities
from the 1980s onwards.
Many capoeira groups embraced full-heartedly this rediscovery of slavery as
crucial to the formative period of their art. At the end of the 1970s, for example,
an important group in São Paulo adopted the name Cativeiro, or “Bondage,”
a term closely associated with slavery in popular Brazilian Portuguese and
proclaimed that capoeira was “the expression of a race.” Around the same time,
another group—Capitães de Areia—replaced the first belt for practitioners with
a symbol of slavery, a chain. As the student advanced, the chain was replaced
by symbols of marronage and freedom.40 All groups that embraced Afrocentric
approaches incorporated slavery into their narratives, as part of their argument
of the essentially African character of capoeira. As Downey has shown for the
group Capoeira Angola Pelourinho (GCAP), which played a leading role in
this process during the 1980s and early 1990s: “GCAP’s version of capoeira’s
African origin explicitly refutes two rationales for calling the art “Brazilian”:
first, that capoeira was created by African peoples or from African elements
in Brazil and, second, that the essential catalyst for the art’s transformation
Assunção 161
No tempo do cativeiro
Quando o senhor me batia
Eu rezava pra Nossa Senhora, ai meu Deus
Como a pancada doía
Quando eu cheguei na Bahia, a capoeira me libertou
Até hoje ainda me lembro, das ordens do meu Senhor:
Trabalha negro, negro trabalha
Trabalha negro pra não apanhar.46
162 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
The details he does not provide are easily verifiable. The Lapa district was home
to the Espada capoeira gang during the Second Empire (1840–1889). Many of
them would have roamed along Lavradio street, which runs along the Morro
do Santo Antônio, which was home to a favela where many famous sambistas
and batuqueiros lived until the hill was razed to the ground in the 1960s.48
For Contramestre Fábio, it seems clear that capoeira has a healing function,
in particular in those places haunted by the suffering of the enslaved:
Essa visão que eu tive do Arco do Telles, da gente fazer là . . . Da mesma forma
que lá no Valongo, da mesma forma que lá nos pretos forros [Cemitério dos
Pretos Novos], (esqueci o nome) locais onde teve sofrimento, locais onde
foram enterrado pessoas, [. . .] a gente tenta hoje transformar tristeza em
alegria . . . roda de samba, samba de roda, tenta botar o jongo, a capoeira, as
manifestações mais proximas dos africanos, dos afro-brasileiros. Na verdade,
quando falei de apagar a escravidão, seria transformar a dor em amor, o ódio
em carinho, seria issso.49
rooms of the political police (DOPS) in São Paulo as a stage for their perfor-
mance, mediating the encounter of the spectators with the empty cells, which
otherwise would hardly have had the potential to convey the horrors that
took place there. Since the agents of DOPS had removed most traces, such
as the graffiti of prisoners from the walls, only the theatre could restore
visibility to the torture chambers.52
How can capoeira street rodas produce similar results? Organizing capoeira
rodas at locations such as the Valongo complex and the Arco do Teles makes
it all but impossible not to engage in some way with memories of enslavement
and suffering. Yet that association is not necessarily automatic, and these sites,
even today, also still need the mediation of actors to fulfill their purpose of
memorialization. Capoeira street rodas contribute to restoring visibility to the
past of slavery on sites such as Valongo. The transformative power of the street
rodas comes through the intense emotional identification of most practitioners
with capoeira’s history, resulting in a heightened sensitivity to the energy, or
“vibes,” of locations such as Valongo or the Teles Arch, as highlighted by the
testimonies from Mestre Célio and Contramestre Fábio (and confirmed by
several participants I spoke to).
Afro-Carioca culture is heavily shaped by West Central African peoples.
Hence when asserting the presence of capoeiras from past times in the territory
of a street roda, this inevitably points to ancestor cults in the religions influ-
enced by African beliefs and Africans and their descendants in Rio, especially
Macumba and Umbanda. One key figure from a group of trickster entities
called “o povo da rua” is Zé Pelintra, the archetypical rogue in the white suite
of the malandro, and a red tie, red hatband and bicolor shoes. Zé Pelintra is
the archetypal capoeira of the past whose attire is still worn by some mestres
today on solemn occasions. Other capoeira ancestors have a more traceable
history through their exploits in the maltas, or in street rodas of the past.53
Many also see the very capoeira movements as a form of embodied knowl-
edge or “bodily archive” that link directly to the memory of slavery.54 The
theatricality of the game creates an emotionally charged atmosphere, where
players tend to identify with the capoeiras of the past or at least see themselves
as continuing this tradition. This sense of drama is contagious and involves
the audience.55 In other words, capoeira—just like other Afro-Brazilian forms
such as jongo, samba-de-roda and Candomblé—are privileged tools to con-
nect visitors to the deeper significance of the Valongo Wharf and the Arco do
Teles, as well as other memory sites. Following Downey, it is possible to argue
that capoeira enables whites or non-Blacks to feel stronger empathy with the
oppression of the enslaved, through intense capoeira training and learning
of malícia (cunning).56
Compared to a staged performance by actors attempting to transform
spectators into witnesses, capoeira has the advantage of wider inclusivity,
164 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
since any practitioner of the art can participate in the roda without previous
rehearsal. Knowing and respecting the rituals of capoeira provides a language,
and the roda a space for dialogue. As I can attest from personal experience,
playing capoeira next to or literally on the top of the remains of thousands of
enslaved Africans gives a distinctly palpable sensation of the African heritage
of the game.57 It also nurtures respect for the Africans who developed the art
under such terrible circumstances and passed it on to the next generations, so
that it survived until today. I therefore believe playing capoeira on sites such
as the Valongo Wharf has a healing function too, because it appeals not only
to a rational identification with the victims of enslavement in Brazil, but to the
feelings and emotions of practitioners and audiences. Playing, singing, or just
watching capoeira played in the roda in this environment becomes in effect
a tribute paid to enslaved African ancestors. Yet institutional racism, added
to frequent informal discrimination, make public memory of slavery a very
contested terrain in Brazil. It is hardly surprising that these issues, which reflect
and reverberate broader conflicts in Brazilian society, also surfaced among
capoeiristas of the Connection. In addition, street rodas often take place in
locations that are subjected to territorial disputes and social conflicts, as the
next section is going to show.
Among capoeira practitioners this debate has quite a long history, as appro-
priations—that is, not only the practice of capoeira by whites or foreigners,
but also attempts to modernize or “sportify” it and erase its Afro-Brazilian
traditions—were already apparent at the end of the 19th century. Angola-style
capoeira constituted itself very much as a reaction against the emergence of
the Regional style, which was seen by traditionalist mestres as a sell-out of
capoeira traditions, with too many concessions being made to modern martial
arts requirements or Western-style competition. Mestre Bimba and his fol-
lowers in Bahia, as well as the Senzala group in Rio, have often been accused
of “whitening” capoeira. Capoeira Angola, by adopting a traditionalist stance,
claimed to resist appropriation by middle-class whites or a capitalist logic.59
The extent to which such claims corresponds to reality, is of course, another
matter, as most Afro-Brazilians practice the Contemporary, not the Angolan
style of capoeira. It seems that over the past decades, fueled by the impressive
globalization of the art, a kind of consensus has emerged to the effect that
anybody can practice capoeira, regardless of ethnicity, class, gender, and age,
but that whoever enters the game has to respect the roda, or what in capoeira,
in analogy to Afro-Brazilian religions, are called the “foundations” of the art.
Mestre Célio notes that even the Afro-Bahian tradition of Candomblé has
many white adherents today, and explains, “Tem que respeitar os princípios.
Eu sou a favor de quem apoia a nossa cultura. A cor da pele não importa.”60
Self-identifying as Black, “our” for him of course refers to Black culture in
Brazil. This openness, a key feature and also a strength of modern capoeira,
is relatively easy to implement in terms of participation in a roda, in the street
or the academy. Everywhere players wanting to enter the game need to abide
by the rules implicitly established by the mestre in charge (and which can also
be made explicit if needed). Yet that does not necessarily mean everybody
has the same legitimacy to represent or talk in the name of the art. As more
militant Black capoeiristas like to point out: “Capoeira é para tod@s, mas não
é de tod@s.”
Even more complicated, of course, was the situation of the Valongo roda, a
place loaded with intense symbolic value. There is probably no other location
in Brazil that at present represents more strongly the suffering of enslaved
Africans. For that reason, UNESCO has recently recognized the Valongo as a
World Heritage site.61 The fact that a white mestre was in charge of the capoeira
roda here, contrary to the general expectation, did of course raise questions,
concerns, and criticisms. It also led to an interesting change of views and
attitude in Mestre Carlão himself, to what he called a “fundamental rupture”
in his capoeira practice. Firstly, he rediscovered his own African heritage. He
started remembering more intensely his grandmother, Oscarina, daughter of a
Black woman and a Portuguese. He composed a special ladainha for her—the
166 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
initial “litany,” or monologue usually sung by the mestre in charge that starts a
capoeira roda. One may read this as a means to gain additional legitimacy, but
it also reflects the fact that whiteness in Brazil is constructed very differently to
the US, and that the majority of Brazilians classified as whites also have some
part of African ancestry. Greater fluidity of racial boundaries means appro-
priation issues are dealt with differently, as most Brazilian feel therefore more
entitled to make use of Afro-Brazilian culture and artefacts. This is what makes,
as Peter Fry has shown, all the difference between feijoada and soul food.62
In response to this questioning of his role, Carlão tried not to monopo-
lize the gunga (the musical bow with the deepest sound that leads the whole
capoeira orchestra) when holding the roda on the Valongo site, passing it on
to some other experienced mestre or player soon after he started the roda:
“Eu aprendi a dar espaço. Aprendi a pisar atras, ou pisar do lado. E dar espaço
a fala negra, aos protagonistas da história africana do Rio de Janeiro.”63 Yet
clearly that was not enough. As M Carlão himself reports, he was constantly
being questioned, particularly by Black capoeiristas, over his role as, “um
mestre de capoeira branco num lugar de memória negra, falando de história
negra, sobre a nossa história.”64
Tudo isso Matthias, doeu muito. Mexeu muito com meu ego, com minha
branquitude, com o que eu vinha fazendo até então, e eu comecei realmente a
dar muito mais espaço e repensar minha situação nas pedras pisadas do quais
do Valongo. Como eu posso ajudar a colaborar? Não parando de falar, porque
eu quero continuar falando sobre isso. . . . mas dando espaço e discutindo, para
aprender? Não para parar de falar, mais para aprender como fazer melhor.65
In other words, Mestre Carlão got caught up in the debate over the “place
of speech” (lugar de fala), which is becoming an issue in some discussions,
in particular with militants of Black Movements. Given the slow progress
of affirmative action, they feel that Blacks are still delegitimized in a society
dominated by hegemonic discourses that tend to negate Black experience, and
for that reason are considered white standpoints. Although Black academics
theorizing about the place of speech recognize that “the social standpoint does
not determine a social consciousness of that point” and that whiteness is more
of a “metaphor of power,”66 in practice the “place of speech” theory is often
applied more literally by capoeiristas. In other words, what social actors do and
say can become less important than the positionality they occupy in a society
which in recent years has been increasingly polarized by binary worldviews.
Some people also thought that a location like the Valongo Quay required
some kind of religious ceremony before a roda. Indeed, religious groups from
Afro-Brazilian faiths such as Candomblé and Umbanda (as well as from other
denominations) make libations on the Quay and in the Cemetery of New
Assunção 167
Blacks to honor the deceased ancestors and remember their suffering.67 Yet
Mestre Carlão, not being an active practitioner of Afro-Brazilian religion, was
not ready to organize or take the lead in this practice, and thus was very much
in line with the current relationship between capoeira and religion. Capoeira
rodas, at least modern ones, are usually ecumenical, meaning that each par-
ticipant can invoke their own deities for protection, but there is no exclusiv-
ity.68 If every mestre can worship or honor their own God(s) before or after
the roda in his academy, there is no mandatory link between Afro-Brazilian
capoeira and Afro-Brazilian religion. However, given the historical weight of
the Valongo Wharf as the most important memory site of the horrors of the
slave trade, it is small wonder that expectations for rodas in this location can
be very different.
To make matters worse, the dispute over ownership intersected with
other issues. There is a general expectation that money generated by capoeira
should be shared. How to accomplish this is, of course, another matter. The
project “O Porto Importa” received funding which was spent according to a
schedule on several activities. It also included some funding of other street
rodas of the Connection. In a meeting, the leaders of these rodas decided
to pool the money for one event that would feature the prestigious Mestre
João Grande, disciple of the legendary Mestre Pastinha, established since
the 1990s in New York. The workshop took place at the Fundição Progresso,
with the veteran mestre leading the Lavradio street roda as a special highlight
(6 September 2014). Yet in the aftermath several people and some groups
felt that in some way the project had not supported them sufficiently and
that its figurehead, Mestre Carlão, was reaping more personal benefits than
were legitimate. This kind of conflict is, in my experience, quite common,
especially in societies such as Brazil where corruption is rife. Corruption is
acknowledged as one of the key problems Brazilians face, but at the same
time seems so pervasive that it also results in an attitude of resignation and a
suspicion of anybody who manages to obtain some funding. In addition, the
socially inferior position in which most Black practitioners find themselves
in relation to most white capoeiristas contributes to expose the fissures in
the capoeira community.
Mestre Grauna, for example, a Black capoeira teacher from the Pedra do Sal
neighborhood and one of only two mestres residing and teaching in the port
area quickly identified Carlão as the enemy: “Veio de fora, de São Gonçalo,
José Carlão do Valongo, ganhou 150 mil, meteu o pé, deu volta por todos os
capoeiristas amigo dele, certo? A verdade é essa.”69 Although the Valongo
Wharf is located today in a kind of no-man’s land, activists from nearby neigh-
borhoods claiming the heritage of Little Africa also disputed Carlão’s role.
In other words, the Valongo roda got caught in a territorial dispute between
locals versus intruders.
168 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
name, which has become another “point” over recent years, with irregular
street performances and surrounding bars, in the midst of a relatively central,
middle-class neighborhood.
The Valongo roda, in contrast, had to motivate its participants to venture
to a location that, for all the grandiloquent discourses of renovation, can still
hardly be seen as integrated into a vibrant cultural or leisure area. The Porto
Maravilha plan has not, or not yet, met most of its targets. The economic and
political crisis has brought construction to a halt. The area has lost a part
of its former population through eviction, but the new middle classes have
not arrived. The result is a fragmented, often seemingly surreal, landscape:
some districts of the port—for example, Conceição Hill and around Praça da
Harmonia—form enclaves in which the original population still cultivates
traditional sociability; others—for example the areas around Pedra do Sal
and Praça Mauá—have developed as leisure zones, attracting consumers from
different backgrounds and various parts of the city. But these “islands” are
surrounded by an urban landscape juxtaposing empty spaces, the result of
eviction and demolition, and new, hypermodern but often empty buildings,
which still seem out of place. For that reason, not many people walk along the
Valongo site, especially in the evenings or at weekends, with the exception of
occasional tourists following the African Memory route. In sum, the Valongo
roda could only thrive as long as enough committed capoeira practitioners or
people interested in talks or workshops would turn up.
Having attended the Valongo roda at different moments over five years, it
seems to me that after initial enthusiasm the capoeiristas and the audiences for
the Knowledge or Work Circles tended to drift apart, most people attending
either one or the other. What they all had in common, however, was that they
were not locals in the strict sense of the term, that is, inhabitants of the port
area. Although there is some important local activism (most notably from
the Pedra do Sal quilombo and the Providencia Hill), what some authors have
described as “grassroots activism” in the port area is nonetheless to a large
extent the product of the interest and mobilization of inhabitants of other
parts of the city.74 In other words, the Valongo roda became the victim of the
unfinished great transformation, that had promised a “wonderful harbor,” but
devastated more than it rebuilt the port area.75
Attending a roda there was hence more of a commitment than going to any
of the other roda locations. I believe there came a moment when a number of
those who frequented it no longer thought that regular attendance was nec-
essary. Again, that does not lessen the importance of the fifty rodas that took
place there over more than four years, as they had a transformative power for
their participants, established the Valongo as a location for capoeira (other
groups have been holding occasional rodas there ever since), and contributed
to making it a core site of Black memory in Rio de Janeiro.
170 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
Conclusion
During the five years of its existence, the Carioca Connection demonstrated
how collaboration between capoeira mestres and groups increased attendance
of street rodas in Rio de Janeiro. The Connection contributed to making the
Valongo Wharf and other locations linked to Rio de Janeiro’s past of slavery
more visible and to advance reflections about how to heal the wounds of
one of the greatest crimes against humanity. Similar to experiences on other
sites associated with a sinister past, in Valongo this memory was “activated
through perfomance,” that is, “through the embodied actions of performers and
spectators.”76 Furthermore, the rodas, especially on the Valongo site, helped
to fuel an important discussion about memory spaces of the African experi-
ence in Brazil, the role of capoeira and its practitioners in this, and the role
of whites or non-Blacks in the process of Black memorialization. Embedded
in the wider and ambivalent context of urban renovation and gentrification,
especially in the port area, the street rodas did not escape the many conflicts
over the appropriation of urban space—conflicts that involve many parties:
the inhabitants of the neighborhoods of the port area, corporate groups,
real-estate speculators, local authorities, academics, NGOs, and militants
of Black movements or political parties. The conflicts over the ownership of
capoeira and the memorialization of such sites adds a further dimension to
material disputes over urban territories—and it is likely that all these battles
will intensify in the future.
NOTES
1. See the documentary clip of the third Valongo Roda at https://youtu.be
/b4HSXaFRU9Y.
2. Carlos Eugênio Líbano Soares, A capoeira escrava e outras tradições rebeldes no
Rio de Janeiro, 1808–1850 (Campinas, São Paulo: Editora da Unicamp, 2001). M. Thomas
J. Desch-Obi, Fighting for Honor: The History of African Martial Art Traditions in the
Atlantic World (Columbia, SC: University of South Carolina Press, 2008). Matthias
Röhrig Assunção, “Engolo e capoeira: jogos de combate étnicos e diaspóricos no
Atlântico Sul.” Tempo 26, no. 3 (September 2020): 522–56.
3. Thomas H. Holloway, “ ‘A Healthy Terror’: Police Repression of Capoeiras in
Nineteenth-Century Rio de Janeiro,” Hispanic American Historical Review 69, no. 4
(November 1, 1989): 641.
4. Carlos Soares, A capoeira escrava.
5. The strongest, and most well-known evidence of this is the famous engraving
“Capoera ou danse de la guerre,” based on a drawing by Johann Moritz Rugendas,
Voyage pittoresque dans le Brésil (Paris, 1835).
Assunção 171
18. Tania Andrade Lima, et al., “Em busca do Cais do Valongo,” 318. Anne-Marie
Broudehoux and João Carlos Carvalhaes dos Santos Monteiro. “Reinventing Rio de
Janeiro’s Old Port: Territorial Stigmatization, Symbolic Re-Signification, and Planned
Repopulation in Porto Maravilha | A reinvenção da zona portuária do Rio de Janeiro:
estigmatização territorial, ressignificação simbólica e repovoamento planejado no
projeto Porto Maravilha.” Revista Brasileira de Estudos Urbanos e Regionais 19, no. 3
(August 25, 2017): 493.
19. Claudio Honorato, in Carlo Alexandre Teixeira, Roda dos saberes do Cais
do Valongo (Rio de Janeiro: Associação Cultural Ilê Mestre Benedito de Angola,
2015), 50. For a documentary film about the Central Station Roda, see Vimeo.com
/capoeirahistory/rodadacentral.
20. Hebe Mattos, and Martha Abreu, “Relatório histórico-antropológico sobre o
quilombo da Pedra do Sal: em torno do samba, do santo e do porto,” Pedra Do Sal:
relatório técnico de identificação e delimitação (Rio de Janeiro: Ministério do Desen-
volvimento Agrário/Instituto Nacional de Colonização e Reforma Agrária, 2010), 15.
21. Anne-Marie Broudehoux, “Reinventing Rio de Janeiro’s Old Port Broudehoux,”
7. Examples of this are the two ostentatious new museums on Praça Mauá designed
by prestigious architects. But that was not all: CDURP raised 7.3 billion Brazilian
reais through exemptions from building restrictions (CEPACS), which allowed for
the construction of highrises of up to forty floors to accommodate businesses, new
“Yuccie” start-ups and middle-class residences. Luiza Farnese L. Sarayed-din, Faizah
Binti Ahmad, and Rosilawati Binti Zainol, “Rio de Janeiro’s Transformations for the
Mega-Events: History, Urban Regeneration and Grassroots Creative Experiences in
the Port Area,” In Frontiers of Planning (Brisbaine, Australia, 2013), 6.
22. Anne-Marie Broudehoux, “Reinventing Rio de Janeiro’s Old Port Broudehoux,” 7.
23. For M Carlão’s biography, see Daniel Granada, Stefania Capone, and Matthias
Röhrig Assunção, Pratique de la capoeira en France et au Royaume-Uni (Paris: L’Har-
mattan, 2015), 222–242.
24. Júlio César Medeiros da Silva Pereira, À flor da terra: o cemitério dos pretos
novos no Rio de Janeiro (Rio de Janeiro: Garamond Universitária: Rio Prefeitura
Cultura Arquivo da Cidade, 2007); Cláudio de Paula Honorato, “Valongo, o mercado
de escravos.”
25. Simone Vassalo, and André Cicalo, “Por onde os africanos chegaram: o Cais do
Valongo e a institucionalização da memória do tráfico negreiro na região portuária
do Rio de Janeiro,” Horizontes Antropológicos 21, no. 43 (2015): 41.
26. For Mestre Carlão’s biography, see Daniel Granada, Pratique de la capoeira,
222–42.
27. Mestre Carlão, interview by Matthias Röhrig Assunção, Rio de Janeiro, April
10, 2017.
28. http://portalcapoeira.com/capoeira/eventos-agenda/calendario-da-conexao
-carioca-de-rodas-nas-ruas.
29. Mestre Claúdio, interview by Matthias Röhrig Assunção, Rio de Janeiro, April
11, 2017.
Assunção 173
30. Ibid.
31. Mestre Célio Gomes, interview by Matthias Röhrig Assunção, Rio de Janeiro,
April 11, 2017.
32. Contramestre Fábio “Chapeu de Couro,” interview by Matthias Röhrig Assunção,
Facebook Messenger, June 6, 2017.
33. Mestre Célio Gomes, interview.
34. Contramestre Fábio “Chapeu de Couro,” interview.
35. Mestre Carlão, interview. Pierre Verger was a French photographer and anthro-
pologist who took hundreds of iconic pictures of capoeira in the 1940s.
36. Carlo Alexandre Teixeira, Roda dos saberes. Available at: https://kabulartes
.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/roda-saberes-dos-saberes-do-cais-do-valongo.pdf. The
film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAQranIgycA. For more on the ‘knowledge
circles’ and the outputs of the project, see Victoria Adams, “Urban Reforms, Cultural
Goods and the Valongo Wharf Circle: Understanding Intervention in Rio de Janeiro’s
Port Area,” Bulletin of Latin American Research 40, no. 5 (November 2021): 696–711.
37. Kerwin Lee Klein, “On the Emergence of Memory in Historical Discourse,”
Representations 69, no. 1 (January 2000): 127–50.
38. David C. Berliner, “The Abuses of Memory: Reflections on the Memory Boom
in Anthropology,” Anthropological Quarterly 78, no. 1 (2005): 197–211.
39. Nina Schneider, “Breaking the ‘Silence’ of the Military Regime: New Politics of
Memory in Brazil,” Bulletin of Latin American Research 30, no. 2 (April 2011): 198–212.
40. Letícia Vidor de Sousa Reis, O mundo de pernas para o ar: a capoeira no Brasil
(São Paulo: Publisher Brasil, 1997), 175–95.
41. Greg Downey, “Incorporating Capoeira: Phenomenology of a Movement Dis-
cipline” (PhD Dissertation, University of Chicago, 1998), 78.
42. Ibid., 79.
43. This also led to the creation of institutions to support black empowerment (for
example the Palmares Foundation, active since 1992) and the introduction of affirmative
action by the Lula governments (2003–2010).
44. http://portomaravilha.com.br/noticiasdetalhe/4907 The initial idea put forward
by the former municipal secretary of culture Nilcemar Nogueira and a group of activists
was to create a “Museum of Slavery and Freedom,” or MEL in the Brazilian acronym,
next to the Valongo complex. After consultation with other agents and institutions
concerned, the name was changed to “Museum of the Afro-Brazilian History and
Culture” (MUHCAB).
45. Matthias Röhrig Assunção, “Capoeira: The History of an Afro-Brazilian Mar-
tial Art,” in Cultures of the Lusophone Black Atlantic, ed. Nancy Priscilla Naro, Roger
Sansi-Roca, and David Treece (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2007), 199–217.
46. This is the version sung by M Boca Rica, in 2011 for the Angolan Roots of Capoeira
project. This song of unknown authorship and with multiple variations dates back to
the 1980s, according to Mestre Cobra Mansa (personal communication). See for exam-
ple http://www.capoeira-music.net/all-capoeira-songs/all-capoeira-corridos-songs
-n/no-tempo-do-cativeiro/.
174 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
61. “Rio’s Valongo Slave Wharf Becomes Unesco Heritage Site,” Latin America &
Caribbean, BBC News, July 10, 2017, https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america
-40552282.
62. Peter Fry, “Feijoada e ‘Soul Food’: notas sobre a manipulação de símbolos étni-
cos e nacionais,” in Para inglês ver: identidade e política na cultura brasileira (Rio de
Janeiro: Zahar, 1982).
63. Mestre Carlão, interview.
64. Ibid.
65. Ibid.
66. Djamila Ribeiro, O que é: lugar de fala? (Belo Horizonte: Letramento, 2017), 583.
67. Two high-profile events that included religious ceremonies were the centenary
of Abdias do Nascimento’s birth and “Herança Africana” (for details see Márcia Leitão
Pinheiro and Sandra Sá Carneiro, “Revitalização urbana, patrimônio e memórias no
Rio de Janeiro: usos e apropriações do Cais do Valongo,” Estudos Históricos (Rio de
Janeiro) 29, no. 57 (April 2016): 67–86).
68. One recent exception is the “Capoeira Gospel”—an attempt to adapt capoeira
to the requirements of the Pentecostal churches and hence subordinate the practice
to their dogma. See Mariana Schreiber, “ ‘Capoeira Gospel’ cresce e gera tensão entre
evangélicos e movimento negro,” BBC Brasil, October 14, 2017.
69. Mestre Grauna (Celio Augusto Braga), interview by Matthias Röhrig Assunção,
Rio de Janeiro, July 29, 2018.
70. Mestre Claúdio, interview.
71. Neuber Leite Costa, “Capoeira, trabalho e educação” (MA Thesis, Universidade
Fluminense da Bahia, 2007).
72. Katya Wesolowski, “Professionalizing Capoeira: The Politics of Play in
Twenty-First-Century Brazil.” Latin American Perspectives 39, no. 2 (March 2012): 84.
73. Sanja Bahun, “Transitional Justice and the Arts,” 161.
74. Luiza Farnese L. Sarayed-din, et al., “Rio de Janeiro’s Transformations.”
75. Possibly Rio’s port area may experience a similar experience to Salvador’s cen-
tral Pelourinho neighborhood, whose modernization rested “on a Unesco-supported
canonization of selected residents of the neighborhood as producers of practices
that function as both commodities and a civilizing, supposedly shared milieu called
‘culture’,” but ended up expelling most residents. John F Collins, Revolt of the Saints:
Memory and Redemption in the Twilight of Brazilian Racial Democracy (Durham:
Duke University Press, 2015), 3.
76. Rebecca J. Atencio, “Acts of Witnessing,” 19.
Bibliography
2a Roda do Cais do Valongo. Accessed May 4, 2022. https://www.youtube.com/watch
?v=o1M1cDPBza0.
176 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
Delamont, Sara, Neil Stephens, and Cláudio Campos. Embodying Brazil: An Ethnog-
raphy of Diasporic Capoeira. Routledge Research in Sport, Culture and Society 68.
New York: Routledge, Taylor & Francis Group, 2017.
Desch-Obi, M. Thomas J. Fighting for Honor: The History of African Martial Art Tradi-
tions in the Atlantic World. Carolina Lowcountry and the Atlantic World. Columbia,
SC: University of South Carolina Press, 2008.
Dias, Luiz Sergio. Quem tem medo da capoeira?: Rio de Janeiro, 1890–1904. Vol. 1.
Coleção Memória Carioca. Rio de Janeiro: Arquivo Geral da Cidade do Rio de
Janeiro, 2001.
Downey, Greg. “Incorporating Capoeira: Phenomenology of a Movement Discipline.”
PhD Dissertation, University of Chicago, 1998.
———. “Listening to Capoeira: Phenomenology, Embodiment, and the Materiality of
Music.” Ethnomusicology 46, no. 3 (2002): 487–509. https://doi.org/10.2307/852720.
Fonseca, Vivian Luiz, and Luiz Renato Vieira. “Capoeira—a Brazilian Immaterial
Heritage: Safeguarding Plans and Their Effectiveness as Public Policies.” The Inter-
national Journal of the History of Sport 31, no. 10 (July 3, 2014): 1303–11. https://doi
.org/10.1080/09523367.2013.867847.
Frigeiro, Alejandro. “Capoeira: de arte negra a esporte branco.” Revista Brasileira de
Ciências Sociais 4, no. 10 (1989): 85–98.
Fry, Peter. “Feijoada e ‘Soul Food’: notas sobre a manipulação de símbolos étnicos
e nacionais.” In Para inglês ver: identidade e política na cultura brasileira. Rio de
Janeiro: Zahar, 1982.
Gaffney, Christopher. “Mega-Events and Socio-Spatial Dynamics in Rio de Janeiro,
1919–2016.” Journal of Latin American Geography 9, no. 1 (2010): 7–29. https://doi
.org/10.1353/lag.0.0068.
González Varela, Sergio Armando. Power in Practice: The Pragmatic Anthropology of
Afro-Brazilian Capoeira. New York: Berghahn Books, 2017.
Granada, Daniel, Stefania Capone, and Matthias Röhrig Assunção. Pratique de La
Capoeira en France et au Royaume-Uni. Collection “Inter-National.” Paris: L’Har-
mattan, 2015.
Holloway, Thomas H. “‘A Healthy Terror’: Police Repression of Capoeiras in Nineteenth-
Century Rio de Janeiro.” Hispanic American Historical Review 69, no. 4 (November
1, 1989): 637–76. https://doi.org/10.1215/00182168-69.4.637.
Honorato, Cláudio de Paula. “Valongo, o mercado de escravos do Rio de Janeiro,
1758–1831.” MA Thesis, Universidade Fluminense Florianápolis, 2008.
Klein, Kerwin Lee. “On the Emergence of Memory in Historical Discourse.” Rep-
resentations 69, no. 1 (January 2000): 127–50. https://doi.org/10.1525/rep.2000.69
.1.01p0064y.
Lima, Tania Andrade, Glaucia Malerba Sene, and Marcos André Torres de Souza. “Em
busca do Cais do Valongo, Rio de Janeiro, século XIX.” Anais do museu paulista:
história e cultura material 24, no. 1 (April 2016): 299–391. https://doi.org/10.1590
/1982-02672016v24n0111.
Machado de Assis. Crônicas (1859–1888). Vol. 4. Porto Alegre: Jackson Inc, 1944.
Mattos, Hebe, and Martha Abreu. “Relatório histórico-antropológico sobre o quilombo
da Pedra do Sal: em torno do samba, do santo e do porto.” Pedra Do Sal: relatório
178 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1
Soares, Carlos Eugênio Líbano. A capoeira escrava e outras tradições rebeldes no Rio
de Janeiro, 1808–1850. Coleção Várias Histórias 7. Campinas, São Paulo: Editora da
Unicamp, 2001.
———. A negregada instituição: os capoeiras no Rio de Janeiro. Coleção Biblioteca
Carioca ; Série Publicação Científica, v. 34. Rio de Janeiro, RJ: Prefeitura da Cidade
do Rio de Janeiro, Secretaria Municipal de Cultura, Departamento Geral de Docu-
mentação e Informação Cultural, Divisão de Editoração, 1994.
Tavares, Júlio César de Souza. “Dança da guerra: arquivo-arma.” MA Thesis, Univer-
sidade de Brasília, 1984.
Teixeira, Carlo Alexandre, ed. Roda dos saberes do Cais do Valongo. Rio de Janeiro:
Associação Cultural Ilê Mestre Benedito de Angola, 2015. https://kabulartes.files
.wordpress.com/2015/02/roda-saberes-dos-saberes-do-cais-do-valongo.pdf.
Trouillot, Michel-Rolph. “Culture on the Edges: Creolization in the Plantation Context.”
In Plantation Society in the Americas, 5:8–28. T. Fiehrer, 1998.
Valongo Roda 3 Master Web. Accessed May 4, 2022. https://www.youtube.com/watch
?v=30_kiJyCo24.
Vannuchi, Luanda, and Mathieu Van Criekingen. “Transforming Rio de Janeiro for
the Olympics: Another Path to Accumulation by Dispossession?” Journal of Urban
Research, no. Special issue 7 (January 1, 2015). http://journals.openedition.org
/articulo/2813.
Vassalo, Simone, and André Cicalo. “Por onde os africanos chegaram: o Cais do
Valongo e a institucionalização da memória do tráfico negreiro na região portuária
do Rio de Janeiro.” Horizontes Antropológicos 21, no. 43 (2015): 29–71.
Wesolowski, Katya. “Professionalizing Capoeira: The Politics of Play in Twenty-
First-Century Brazil.” Latin American Perspectives 39, no. 2 (March 2012): 82–92.
https://doi.org/10.1177/0094582X11427892.
180 Luso-Brazilian Review 59:1