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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
八戸での飲み歩き、いくつも横町があって繁華街が充実しています。夜の街も素晴らしいという期待はありつつも、お店を絞れずにさまよう。その中でも気になっていたこちら。
店名の印象が強い、お店の前でネコがけんかしている、店の前に貼り出された刺身の値付けが安い、という3点が決め手。この三拍子がそろっていれば、絶対にいい居酒屋に違いない。
一見でも快く迎え入れてくれるか恐る恐るでしたが、杞憂でした。
カウンター横のテーブル席に通される。18時頃の訪問ですが、カウンターはほぼ満席、もう1つのテーブルも予約席のようです。まずは生で乾杯。スーパードライなのがうれしい。そしてなんの前触れもなく出てくるお通したちが素晴らしいのひと言。インゲンと厚揚げをごま油で炒めたやつ、イワシ串の梅肉巻き、サトイモにおろしと菊のお浸し添え。小料理屋とかで食べられる、ちょっと手の込んだアテの数々。一見家庭的で華美さはありませんが、なかなかまねするのも難しい高いクオリティの肴の数々。お味はどれも素晴らしいですね。インゲンの炒めはごま油の風味とインゲンの甘みが、イワシは梅肉との塩梅が、サトイモは菊とおろしの風味がねっとりとした食感に華を添えて、なんともいえない幸福感。
そして壁には、青森県出身の「月刊ムー」の編集長の写真。ここは間違いのないお店だという確信をひそかに深めます。
その確信をさらに確かなものにすべく、ナス煮びたしにニラギョーザをお願いします。
それにしてもつまみ、料理のお値段が本当にお安い。安いのだと300円で、500、600円が軸。高いものでも700、800円という値付け。へたすりゃチェーンの居酒屋並みじゃないか。ニラギョーザの味もさることながら、ナスの煮びたしが珠玉。しっかりと取っただしの中に、焼いたナスをおいて少し浸してある。丁寧な仕事ぶりが、料理の味の奥深さに出ている。
ここらで八戸の地酒の菊駒に切り替え。そしていよいよ刺身に突入。戻りかつお、夕採りいか、さんま刺、ほたて貝、ホッキ貝。どの刺身も素晴らしいのひと言なのですが、特にいいのは夕採りいかにさんま刺、ほたて貝。いかのねっとりグニグニした見事な食感に、特有の旨味と甘み。口に入れた途端に口腔内に貼り付く鮮度の良さ。さんまの脂の乗り方も素晴らしく、後口が軽やかなのもすごい。ほたての貝柱の甘さもたまげますね。そしてとにかく酒とよく合う。鮮度の素晴らしいいい刺身は、日本酒が相手だとうまさが倍増。当然っちゃ当然のことなのだけど、いいお店はそんな基本的な喜びを教えてくれるのです。
この店は本物だと確信。鬼門どころか、天国じゃないか。気をよくして、酒は桃川の杉玉を追加。刺身はぶりに自家製〆サバを。相変わらず刺身の迫力。ぶりは足が速く、脂が酸化して匂いが気になることが多々あるのですが、これは別次元。脂がサッと口の中でとろけ、上品な甘みと旨味で舌の上をくるんでくれる。自家製〆サバも見事ですね。八戸の辺りはサバも特産でよく獲れるみたいですが、サバ特有の臭みは一切なく、上質な脂と身の旨味だけを楽しめる。素材がいいだけでなく、その技術も確かでなければこの味は出せませんよ。
すっかり酒が進んでおいらせ町のねぶたを追加。アテにホヤとウニの塩からの珍味バクライを頼み、ちびちび。幸福なひとときを味わえました。最後に出てきたサービスのしじみ汁が泣かせる。
家庭的な居酒屋という風情ですが、もとはお寿司屋さんだったようですね。魚介類のクオリティは確かですし、何よりお値段が手頃で求めやすいというレベルを超えています。この味なら、東京なら2倍、3倍は取られますよ。そして刺身にはどれも菊のお浸しが添えてあったりと、どのお皿も見た目もよくて丁寧な心遣いが光る。最初は入りから戦々恐々だったお店も、最後は羽化登仙。天にも昇る思いです。気づけば3時間近くの長尻に。こちらは八戸に来たなら、必ず行っておきたいお店の1つですね。ごちそうさまでした。