The postglacial transition to textile clothing and agriculture

P Mes Palaeolithic-Mesolithic Seminar Series McDonald Institute Seminar Room Fridays 4:30-5:30 PM Easter 2017 28th April Prof Chris Clarkson (University of Queensland) Small, sharp and standardized: global convergence in backed microlith technology 5th May Prof Mircea Anghelinu (Valahia University of Târgoviste) At the Gates of Europe: the emergence of Upper Palaeolithic in Romania 12th May Dr Ian Gilligan (University of Sydney) The postglacial transition to textile clothing and agriculture 19th May Dr Andy Shaw (University of Southampton) Repeopling La Manche: new perspectives on Neanderthals from La Cotte de St Brelade *South Lecture Room* 26th May *South Lecture Room* Dr Chris Stimpson (University of Oxford) Pleistocene palaeoecology of the Nefud desert: insights from vertebrate palaeontology 2nd June Prof Thomas Terberger (University of Göttingen) Eastern in uences on the Mesolithic of the western Baltic: facts or fantasy? 9th June Dr Christina Papoulia (University of Crete) Evaluating the geoarchaeological evidence for sea-crossings in the north east Mediterranean during the Pleistocene 16th June TBC Contact the organiser: Andreas Nymark Email: andreasnymark@hotmail.com Facebook: @PalMesoCambridge McDonald Institute for Archaeological Research PalMeso Seminar Series University of Cambridge 12 May 2017 The Postglacial Transition to Textiles and Agriculture Ian Gilligan Department of Archaeology Agricultural transition Theories failure of food paradigm Textiles rationale / advantages substantive evidence Agricultural transition Factors climate change sedentism population growth social complexity STATE OF THE ART Bar-Yosef, O. 2017. Multiple origins of agriculture in Eurasia and Africa. In On Human Nature: Biology, Psychology, Ethics, Politics, and Religion, eds. M. Tibayrenc and F. J. Ayala, pp. 297-331. London: Academic Press. … no mention of textiles! ISSUES Delay Climate change Food basis Foraging was inferior? Foraging Secure and flexible Climate change no problem Less work Better than agriculture! Agriculture Only in last 10,000 years Coincided with climate change Hard work More risks than foraging Only in some places Food paradigm Zeder: two possibilities food scarce / unreliable food plentiful - both can cite evidence Third possibility food was irrelevant ! Food paradigm Zeder: two possibilities food scarce / unreliable food plentiful Zeder, M. A. (2015). Core questions in domestication - both ofcan cite evidence research. Proceedings the National Academy of Sciences USA, 112, 3191-3198. ThirdDomestication possibility Zeder, M. A. (2016). as a model system for niche construction theory. Evolutionary Ecology, 30, food was irrelevant ! 325-348. Food paradigm Agriculture ≠ food production food staples often not involved food not always for us Two aims Food assumption easy to challenge Clothing as cause advantages and evidence Brian Hayden: “Feasting” model Early domesticates : NOT food staples wild grasses, herbs, spices NON-edible products textile fibres “luxuries” in complex societies Wild grass as food? Hayden’s critique of rice in Asia low productivity increased work & risk Limited role in human diet even after rice domestication Wild grass as food? Hayden’s critique of rice in Asia low productivity increased work & risk Hayden, B.D. (2011). Rice: first Asian Limited role in the human dietluxury food? In G. W. Barker, & M. Janowski (eds.), Why Cultivate? after rice domestication Anthropologicaleven and Archaeological Approaches to Foraging-Farming Transitions in Southeast Asia, pp. 7593. Cambridge: McDonald Institute for Archaeological Research. Why Cultivate? Graeme Barker’s study on Borneo Penan foragers & Kelabit farmers Foragers value their lifestyle & its egalitarian ethos “a profound psychological gulf” Why Cultivate? Graeme Barker’s study on Borneo Penan foragers & Kelabit farmers valueM.their lifestyle Barker, G.Foragers W., & Janowski, (2011). Why cultivate? Anthropological and archaeological approaches to & its egalitarian ethos foraging-farming transitions in Southeast Asia. In G. W. Barker, &“a M. profound Janowski (Eds.), Why Cultivate? psychological gulf” Anthropological and Archaeological Approaches to Foraging-Farming Transitions in Southeast Asia (pp. 116). Cambridge: McDonald Institute for Archaeological The sapient paradox Colin Renfrew Little changed until 10,000 BP Language made no difference Sedentism crucial – but why delayed? Psychological / “cognitive” change Textiles in Aegean transition The sapient paradox Colin Renfrew Little changed until 10,000 BP made no difference Renfrew, Language C. (1972). The Emergence of Civilisation: The Cyclades and the Aegean in the Third Millennium B.C. Sedentism crucial – but why delayed? London: Methuen. Renfrew, Psychological C. (2012). Towards a cognitive archaeology: / “cognitive” change material engagement and the early development of Textiles in Aegean transition society. In I. Hodder (ed.), Archaeological Theory Today (pp. 124-145). Second edition. Cambridge: Polity Press. What about textiles? Textile fibres prominent A primary product ? Makes farming an option Food staples often later Clothing paradigm Long delay late Pleistocene development Limited locations no appeal to naked people Climate coincidence textiles favoured in Holocene Complex clothing Late Pleistocene development thermal necessity in LGM acquired psychosocial functions clothing persisted into Holocene textile transition thermal advantage over skins Thermal basis • Moisture is the problem • Postglacial climates • higher temperatures • increased sweating • higher humidity • impedes sweat evaporation Textile clothing Woven structure porous to moisture Favoured in warmer climates Disadvantage is wind penetration not suitable in Pleistocene cooling benefit in Holocene Wicking effect removes moisture from garment helps evaporative cooling TEXTILE MODEL  PLANTS  Fibre  Feed for animals  ANIMALS  Fibre  Commensal Multi-purpose roles EDIBLE Human Animal food feed INEDIBLE Clothes Other uses Animal husbandry Ingold 1984: HUNTING HERDING DEAD ALIVE MEAT WOOL Archaeology… Peru 12,000 BP Turkey 9000 BP Pleistocene textiles “Venus” of Willendorf Austria 30,000-27,000 BP Fibres in early farming contexts ragweed turkey feathers cotton maguey cotton wool hemp ramie jute wool silkworm flax cotton enset banana Near East • Animal domestication – sheep & goats 11,500 BP • permanent sheep fleece 7,000 BP • wild sheep – annual moult – cattle (milk and meat) – later – dogs • commensal • herding sheep Early crops Early crops Food for grazing animals barley, einkorn wheat, rye, oats, legumes Food for humans? NOT grasses! emmer wheat (for bread) less popular Isotope studies cereal crops fed to domestic animals Early crops Food for grazing animals barley, einkorn wheat, rye, oats, legumes Food for humans NOT grasses! emmer wheat (for bread) less popular Isotope studies cereal crops fed to domestic animals Early crops Food for grazing animals barley, einkorn wheat, rye, oats, legumes Food for humans NOT grasses! emmer wheat (for bread) less popular Isotope studies cereal crops fed to domestic animals Fibre crop flax Early crops Food for grazing animals barley, einkorn wheat, rye, oats, legumes Food for humans NOT grasses! emmer wheat (for bread) less popular Isotope studies cereal crops fed to domestic animals Fibre crop flax MESOAMERICA • Food crops squash 8-10,000 BP maize 5-6,000 BP beans 2,000 BP • Fibre cotton 7-9,000 BP maguey (sisal hemp) early – 9000 BP • Other bottle gourd, chilli, tobacco • Animals dogs, turkey - fed on maize MESOAMERICA • Food crops squash 8-10,000 BP maize 5-6,000 BP beans 2,000 BP • Fibre cotton 7-9,000 BP maguey (sisal hemp) ? early • Other bottle gourd, chilli, tobacco • Animals dogs, turkey - fed on maize MESOAMERICA • Food crops squash 8-10,000 BP maize 5-6,000 BP beans 2,000 BP • Fibre cotton 7-9,000 BP maguey (sisal hemp) ? early • Other bottle gourd, chilli, tobacco • Animals dogs, turkey - fed on maize SOUTH AMERICA Animals Llama Alpaca Vicuña 7-9,000 BP hybrid llama / vicuña 6,000 BP not domesticated herded for wool - not meat Fed on wild grasses SOUTH AMERICA Animals Llama Alpaca 7-9,000 BP hybrid llama / vicuña 6,000 BP Lama Vicuñaguanicoe not domesticated … fibre for “luxury fabrics” herded for wool - not meat Fed on wild grasses SOUTH AMERICA Vicugna pacos SOUTH AMERICA Vicuña Vicugna vicugna Wild ancestor of alpaca World’s most valuable natural fibre Hunted by Incas for wool - released rather killed for meat SOUTH AMERICA Wild ancestors of domesticated animals: wool present primary purpose of domestication Same as in Southwest Asia..! Cultivated plants cotton 8,000 BP –dominates early coastal agriculture Cultivated plants cotton 8,000 BP –dominates early coastal agriculture maize 5,000 BP –not prominent –not human food staple peppers, beans 7-8,500 BP woven cloth 8,000 BP – hemp-like wild fibres Cotton-based agriculture cotton 8,000 BP –dominates coastal Caralearly 5000 BP agriculture maize 5,000 BP –not prominent –not human food staple peppers, beans 7-8,500 BP woven cloth 8,000 BP – hemp-like wild fibres NORTH AMERICA North America Eastern Woodlands 5000 BP squash chenopod marshelder sunflower Mesolithic, sedentary / semi-sedentary NORTH AMERICA North America Complex clothing used from outset wild resources animal skins + textiles Windover Bog, Florida 7500 BP NORTH AMERICA North America Ragweed common at early sites not domesticated ? cultivated fibres used to weave cloth NORTH AMERICA North America Milkweed Ragweed common at early sites not domesticated ? cultivated fibres used to weave cloth NORTH AMERICA North America Milkweed Southwest 2000BP Turkey domesticated fed on maize not a major food kept for feathers? NORTH AMERICA North America Speller, C.Southwest F., Kemp, B. M., Wyatt,2000BP S.D., Monroe, C., Lipe, W.D., Arndt, U.M., et al. (2010). Ancient Turkey domesticated fed on maize not a major food kept for feathers? mitochondrial DNA analysis reveals complexity of indigenous North American turkey domestication. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences USA, 107, 2807-2812. Cooper, C., Lupo, K., Matson, R.G., Lipe, W., Smith, C.I., & Richards, M.P. (2016). Short-term variability of human diet at Basketmaker II Turkey Pen Ruins, Utah: insights from bulk and single amino acid isotope analysis of hair. Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, 5, 10-18. China Sedentism led the way 10,000 BP Millet (fodder crop) was first Rice 9,000 BP but not major crop Commensal animals dogs, pigs, fowl – cattle later Most food from foraging until 6,000 BP China Textiles Poorly documented Spindle whorls 7000 BP Local (Mongolian) sheep 7000 BP Plant fibres: hemp in early neolithic 9000 BP domesticated 7000 BP Silk / mulberry 5000 BP China Textiles Poorly documented Spindle whorls 7000 BP Local (Mongolian) sheep 7000 BP Plant fibres: hemp in early neolithic 9000 BP domesticated 7000 BP Silk / mulberry 5000 BP Early doubts in China… • Sauer 1969 “curious” choices “especially” fibres for textiles food “not the most important reason” • Chang 1970 food crops played only a “minor role” Japan • Fibres hemp, paper mulberry (Jomon) • Agriculture from China millet, wheat, barley, herbs/spices • Food staples NOT prominent a “major problem” (Imamura 1996) • Spindle whorls China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan… Indian subcontinet • Southwest Asia – sheep/goats, wheat • Eastern Asia – rice, silkworms (?) • Cotton – new species domesticed ~6,500 BP Indian subcontinet • Silkworm domesticated independently: Southwest Asia Good, I. L., Kenoyer, J. M., & Meadow, R. H. New evidence for early silk in the –(2009). sheep/goats, wheat Indus civilization. Archaeometry, 51, 457-466. • Eastern Asia – rice, silkworms (?) Fuller, D. Q. (2011). Finding plant • Cotton domestication in the Indian –subcontinent. new species Current domesticed ~6,500 BP 52, Anthropology, S347-S362. Indian subcontinet • Southwest Asia – sheep/goats, wheat • Eastern Asia – rice, silkworms (?) • Cotton – new species domesticed ~6,500 BP Indian subcontinet • Southwest Asia – sheep/goats, wheat • Eastern Asia – rice, silkworms (?) • Cotton – new species domesticed ~6,500 BP Indian subcontinet • Southwest Asia – sheep/goats, wheat • Eastern Asia Cotton cultivated 7000-8000 BP? Moulherat, C., Tengberg, (?) M., Haquet, J.-F., & – rice, silkworms Mille, B. (2002). First evidence of cotton at Mehrgarh, Pakistan: analysis of •Neolithic Cotton mineralized fibres from a copper bead. – new species domesticed ~6,500 BP Journal of Archaeological Science, 29, 1393-1401. AFRICA AFRICA Southwest Asia 7000 BP sheep, goats, cattle cereals, flax Indigenous domesticates donkey 6000 BP sorghum, millet 4000 BP Barbary sheep Independent herding 9000 BP Barbary sheep Independent herding 9000 BP Barbary sheep Wool-bearing wild sheep kept in pens fed with wild grasses collected by people to feed the sheep Independent herding 9000 BP Barbary sheep Akraim, F., Milad, I. S., Abdulkarim, A. A., & Ganem,Wool-bearing M. (2008). Wool characteristics wild sheepof Libyan Barbary sheep in north-eastern kept in pens Libya: I. Fibre diameter and staple length. Livestock Research fed with wild grasses for Rural Development, 20, 118. collected people di Lernia, S. (2001). Dismantlingby dung: delayed use of food resources amongthe early Holocene to feed sheep foragers of the Libyan Sahara. Journal of Anthropological Archaeology, 20, 408-441. Egypt AFRICA Barbary sheep Egypt AFRICA Barbary sheep Linen tunic Middle Kingdom c. 4000 BP PNG Highlands • 7,000 BP: root crops, bananas • Bananas – wild forms NOT very edible/palatable – fibres e.g. ‘Manila hemp’ (Philippines) • Root crops – often minor role in human diet – later used as feed for pigs • Clothes – cool ‘mid-latitude’ climate, colder in LGM PNG Highlands Horticulture 10,000 BP irrigation 4000 BP 3 crops yams – cultivated taro – cultivated banana – domesticated PNG Highlands Wild banana PNG Highlands Wild banana fibre PNG Highlands Wild banana fibre PNG Highlands Wild banana fibre Philippines Barong tagalog jusi (banana) fabric PNG Highlands PNG Highlands Clothes…? Cool and humid climate…. Colder during LGM Moisture always favoured textiles PNG Highlands Frost on the equator..! PNG Highlands Indigenous clothing PNG Highlands Banana not first domesticated for food de Langhe, E.A. (2009). Relevance of banana seeds in archaeology. Ethnobotany Research and Applications, 7, 271-281. Kennedy, J. (2009). Bananas and people in the homeland of genus Musa: not just pretty fruit. Ethnobotany Research and Applications, 7, 179-197. Australia • • • • clothing NOT habitual simple, not complex thermal pattern no textile garments Australia • clothing NOT habitual Gilligan, I. (2008). Clothing and climate in •Aboriginal simple, not complex Australia. Current Anthropology, 49, 487-495. • thermal pattern • no textile garments AUSTRALIAN AGRICULTURE Very limited, and late (mid-late Holocene) 3 ‘agricultural’ centres Gerritsen, R. (2008). Australia and the Origins of Agriculture. BAR International Series 1874.Oxford: Archaeopress. Three cases • Nhanda – external (Dutch) contact 400 BP • Corners region – fish traps 1,000 BP • SW Victoria – ‘aquaculture’ 2500 BP Weak cases   Stretch the meaning of ‘agriculture’ All foragers are farmers ! Weak cases “Firestick farming”   Stretch the meaning of ‘agriculture’ All foragers are farmers ! Weak cases “Firestick farming” Fish traps Two Questions  Is it farming ? Gilligan, I. (2010). Agriculture in Aboriginal Australia: why not? Journal of Indo-Pacific Archaeology (formerly Bulletin of the Indo Pacific Prehistory Association), 30, 145-156. Is it indigenous ? Two Questions Dogs domesticated 10-15,000 BP somewhere in Eurasia… Arrived in Australia ~4000 BP Is it indigenous ? Two Questions Yams cultivated in northern Australia Spread from PNG 8000 BP Brief experiment soon abandoned “for as yet unknown reasons” Denham, T., Donohue, M., & Booth, S. Horticultural experimentation in (2009). northern Australia reconsidered. Antiquity, 83, 634-648. Is it indigenous ? Agriculture in HISTORY Textiles wool-producing animals fibre- producing crops Food crops animals & people Colonial Australia Animals sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep, s sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep, s Crops wheat for sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep, s Colonial Australia • Animals sheep, sheep, sheep, sheep… • Crops wheat for sheep Industrial Revolution Analogy Bar-Yosef 2017 Industrial Revolution Textiles not food What does it mean? farming ≠ “food production” textiles present / prominent basis for the transition ? Food: a secondary product from a forager perspective: foraging was always better Food: a secondary product Timing from Day One Quantity can exceed fibres Food: a secondary product Population growth (NDT) early weaning related to clothing? Promoted food production Food: Food alone is not sufficient agriculture is multi-purpose textiles +/- food for animals Hayden critique is valid but complexity is too late Clothing: Accounts for long delay complex clothes in late Pleistocene climate coincidence textile transition in early Holocene localised, not universal trend no clothes = no agriculture Thanks Peter Bellwood Brian Hayden Peter White