Chess
FOR
DUMmIES
‰
2ND
by James Eade
EDITION
Chess For Dummies®, 2nd Edition
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About the Author
James Eade began taking chess seriously in 1972, when Bobby Fischer was
taking the chess world by storm. He competed on his high-school and college
teams and became a United States Chess Federation (USCF) chess master in
1981. In 1984 he became a USCF correspondence chess master as well.
International organizations awarded him the master title in 1990 (for correspondence) and in 1993 (for regular tournament play), but his chess-playing
career has gradually given way to chess writing, organizing, and teaching.
James has written three other books on chess: Remember the MacCutcheon
(Chess Enterprises), San Francisco, 1995 (Hypermodern Press), and The Chess
Player’s Bible (Barron’s). He has written numerous articles for a variety of
magazines and has edited both the Golden Gate Chess News and the California
Chess Journal.
In 1991 James began taking an interest in chess political organizations and
was elected vice president of CalChess, the Northern California Chess
Association, later that year. In 1995 he became CalChess president and was
also elected to be president of the Chess Journalists of America. In 1996 he
was elected to the USCF’s policy board, the executive committee charged
with oversight of the multi-million-dollar corporation. He was appointed zone
president for the United States for the Fédération Internationale des Échecs
(FIDE) from 2000 to 2002 and has served on the U.S. Charitable Chess Trust
board of trustees since 2000.
James holds a master’s degree in organization development from the
University of San Francisco and still bristles at being called a chess nerd.
Dedication
To Sheri — for suffering chess fools gladly.
Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank Sheri Anderson for all her encouragement and support
throughout this writing project. I really appreciated the feedback I got from
the first edition of Chess For Dummies, especially the input I received from
George Mirijanian, Frisco Del Rosario, and Wayne Praeder.
My editors for the first edition, Bill Helling and Bill Barton, deserve a special
thanks for drilling it into my head that not everyone knows Ruy Lopez from
Nancy Lopez, and for keeping me on the straight and narrow. My thanks also
go to the first edition’s technical editor, John Peterson, who is a better friend
than chess player — and he happens to be a very good chess player. I also
wish to thank my editors, Sherri Pfouts, Kristin DeMint, and Jon Edwards, for
their help with this second edition. M. L. Rantala was more than helpful with
the glossary of terms, which I could not have done without her most able
assistance.
I wish to thank my father, Arthur Eade, for teaching me chess, and my
mother, Marilyn, for her touching advance order for this book. Lastly, a special thank-you to Lore McGovern, who was the wind at my back from start to
finish.
Publisher’s Acknowledgments
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Contents at a Glance
Introduction .................................................................1
Part I: Laying the Groundwork .......................................7
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics ..............................................................................9
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers ........................................................23
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess .....................................................41
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate .................63
Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How ................................79
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat ................................81
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive ...............................109
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns .........................................................................121
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition .....................................................................137
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations ...................................................................155
Chapter 10: Making Special Moves ...............................................................................169
Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward ...177
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play .....................................179
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening ...........................................................193
Chapter 13: Making Headway during the Middlegame ..............................................215
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame ...........................................................225
Part IV: Getting Into Advanced Action .......................243
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette ...........................................245
Chapter 16: Hitting the Net with Computer Chess .....................................................257
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess ..................................263
Part V: The Part of Tens ............................................275
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games ......................................................277
Chapter 19: The Ten Best Players of All Time .............................................................305
Part VI: Appendixes ..................................................313
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess .................................................................................315
Appendix B: Other Chess Resources ...........................................................................341
Index........................................................................345
Table of Contents
Introduction .................................................................1
About This Book ..............................................................................................1
What’s New in This Edition ............................................................................2
Conventions Used in This Book ....................................................................2
Foolish Assumptions ......................................................................................3
How This Book Is Organized ..........................................................................3
Part I: Laying the Groundwork .............................................................3
Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How ........................................................4
Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward ....................4
Part IV: Getting Into Advanced Action ................................................5
Part V: The Part of Tens ........................................................................5
Part VI: Appendixes ...............................................................................5
Icons Used in This Book .................................................................................5
Where to Go from Here ...................................................................................6
Part I: Laying the Groundwork ......................................7
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Chesstacular! The Basics of the Game .........................................................9
The underlying concepts ....................................................................10
Things to recognize to make wise decisions ...................................10
Three parts that make a whole ..........................................................11
Different ways to get your game on ..................................................12
A game to write home about ..............................................................12
Chessboard Chatter: Bringing Home a Board and Chess Set ..................12
Finding the right board and set .........................................................13
Getting up close and personal with your board ..............................14
Piecemeal: Putting the Pieces on the Board ..............................................18
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Mimicking a Castle: The Rook .....................................................................24
Showing Off Slender Curves: The Bishop ..................................................26
Flaunting Her Pointy Crown: The Queen ....................................................30
Donning a Buggy Crown: The King ..............................................................31
Galloping in an L-Formation: The Knight ...................................................33
Scooting Around as the Army’s Runt: The Pawn ......................................35
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Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Hogging the Board: Space ............................................................................41
Don’t get cramped ...............................................................................42
Gain control ..........................................................................................42
Employ space strategies .....................................................................42
Getting the Most Bang for Your Buck: Material .........................................46
Value your pawns and pieces ............................................................46
Adopt material strategies ...................................................................47
Positioning Men in Good Time: Development ...........................................48
Gain a tempo ........................................................................................49
Make a gambit (maybe) ......................................................................50
Protecting the Head Honcho: King Safety ..................................................52
Working Your Pawn Structure .....................................................................54
Promote the little guys: Passed pawns .............................................57
Mobility is key: Isolated pawns .........................................................58
Left behind on open files: Backwards pawns ..................................59
On the verge of backwards: Hanging pawns ....................................60
In front of a pawn sibling: Doubled pawns .......................................60
Lines in the sand: Pawn chains ..........................................................61
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate,
and Checkmate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Check ’Em Out: Attacking the Enemy King ................................................63
Stuck in a Rut: Stalemate ..............................................................................65
No Escape for Ye King: Checkmate .............................................................66
Cutting off squares with the king and queen ...................................67
Checkmating with king and rook .......................................................70
Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How ................................79
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat . . . .81
Knowing Your Tactical Game Plan ..............................................................81
Bullying two guys at once: The fork ..................................................82
Going after the bodyguard: The pin ..................................................87
Forcing your opponent to move it or lose it: The skewer ..............90
Stealing the show: Discovered and double attacks ........................92
Dealing out the discovered and double check ................................94
Combining Moves to Speed Your Progress ................................................96
Sacrificing a piece to clear a path .....................................................97
Luring your opponent with a decoy ...............................................100
Deflecting your opponent’s piece off a key square .......................102
Destroying the guard ........................................................................104
Overloading one piece to make another piece vulnerable ..........106
Table of Contents
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive . . .109
Sacrificing for an Edge in Development: The Gambit .............................110
Giving Up a Bishop ......................................................................................112
Immediate Gratification: The Temporary Sacrifice ................................115
A Strategic Move for the Patient: The Permanent Sacrifice ..................117
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Beware the Unprotected Back Rank: Back Rank Mates .........................124
Pair the Heavy and the Light: Queen and Pawn Mates ..........................125
Mount Her Royal Highness: Queen and Knight Mates ...........................129
Create a Steamroller with the Bishop and Rook .....................................134
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Analyzing Chess Positions and Looking Ahead ......................................138
Picking Up on Pawn Formations ...............................................................139
The French Defense and the pawn chain .......................................140
After the French Defense: Typical pawn formations ....................143
Eyeing the Endgame Patterns ....................................................................147
Transferring the rook ........................................................................148
Building a bridge ...............................................................................151
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155
Exploring the Powers of Pawn Formations ..............................................155
Seeing how pawn formations can affect a game ............................156
Using your pawns to your advantage .............................................157
Getting the Bishop Involved: The Fianchetto ..........................................158
Looking at fianchetto strengths .......................................................159
Watching out for fianchetto weaknesses ........................................159
Varying the Sicilian: The Dragon ...............................................................160
Clawing your way across the board: The Dragon’s pros ..............160
Getting past the Dragon’s drawbacks .............................................161
Exercising Your Pawns’ Flexibility: The Scheveningen ..........................161
Gaining advantage with the Scheveningen ....................................162
Looking at the downside to the Scheveningen ..............................163
Building the Stonewall ................................................................................163
Relying on the Stonewall’s strengths ..............................................164
Coping with the Stonewall’s weaknesses .......................................164
Creating a Megafortress at the Center: The Double Stonewall .............164
Knowing the Double Stonewall’s benefits ......................................165
Dealing with the Double Stonewall’s downfalls .............................166
Matching Color to Center Squares: The Closed English ........................166
Eyeing the Closed English benefits .................................................166
Coming to terms with the Closed English pitfalls .........................167
Winging It with the Nimzo-Botvinnik ........................................................167
Discovering the advantages .............................................................168
Weeding out the weaknesses ...........................................................168
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Chapter 10: Making Special Moves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
Capturing a Pawn at Your Side: En Passant .............................................169
The en passant capture ....................................................................170
The en passant details to keep in mind ..........................................171
Boosting Your Pawns’ Powers: Promotion Time .....................................171
Guarding Your King and Putting a Rook in Motion: Castling .................172
When you can’t castle .......................................................................174
When you can castle .........................................................................175
Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot
Forward ...................................................................177
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play . . . . . .179
Aiming for the Center .................................................................................180
Exchanging Pieces .......................................................................................185
Doing More with Less: The Minority Attack ............................................186
Controlling Key Squares to Lock Up an Advantage ................................188
Holding Back the Pawns: The Blockade ...................................................191
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193
Developing Your Pieces ..............................................................................194
Controlling the center .......................................................................194
Watching your opponent ..................................................................194
Following basic principles ................................................................195
Attacking Your Opponent’s Pieces ............................................................195
Getting Ahead with Your Opening Moves ................................................196
Taking note of good opening moves ...............................................196
Resorting to the not-as-good opening moves ................................198
Salvaging a weak opening move ......................................................199
Exploring Common Opening Moves .........................................................200
Double king pawn openings .............................................................201
Different strokes: Other black replies .............................................207
Ladies first: The double queen pawn opening ..............................210
Cowboys and Indian Defenses .........................................................212
Chapter 13: Making Headway during the Middlegame . . . . . . . . . . .215
When You Reach the Middlegame . . . ......................................................215
Formulating a Middlegame Plan ................................................................216
Evaluate the position ........................................................................216
Take advantage of the pawn structure ...........................................217
Look for ways to use a minority attack ..........................................221
Attacking during the Middlegame .............................................................222
Attack types to watch out for and defend against ........................223
Principles to keep in mind ...............................................................223
Table of Contents
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225
Putting the Endgame into Perspective .....................................................225
The General Winning Endgame Strategy ..................................................226
Pawn and King Endings ..............................................................................227
When the kings face off: Opposition ...............................................229
When each side has more than one pawn .....................................233
Rook Endings: The Oh-So-Common Tricksters .......................................237
Bishops and Knights: Minor Piece Endings .............................................238
Medieval times, chess-style: Knight versus knight .......................240
Survival of the fittest: Knight versus bishop .................................241
A religious battle: Bishop versus bishop .......................................242
Part IV: Getting Into Advanced Action .......................243
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette . . . . . . . . . .245
Practice Makes Perfect: Joining a Club First ...........................................245
U.S. Tournament Basics ..............................................................................246
Watching your time and rating high ...............................................246
Familiarizing yourself with the types of tournaments ..................248
Tournament Chess around the World ......................................................250
Going Long Distance: Correspondence Chess .........................................250
Miss (or Mister) Manners: Tournament Etiquette ..................................251
Knowing when to call your loss .......................................................252
Offering a draw ..................................................................................253
Being careful what you touch ..........................................................254
Straightening your pieces ................................................................255
Saving snacks for later ......................................................................255
Chapter 16: Hitting the Net with Computer Chess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257
Computers versus Humans ........................................................................257
The triumph of the number crunchers ...........................................258
A chessmaster sinks in IBM’s Deep Blue ........................................259
Chess-Playing Computer Programs ..........................................................259
Chess Databases .........................................................................................260
Electronic Chess Instruction .....................................................................260
Playing Chess Online ..................................................................................261
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess . . . . .263
Keeping Track of the Pieces ......................................................................264
Writing the Moves of a Game .....................................................................264
Describing a typical opening ...........................................................264
Indicating captures ............................................................................266
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Noting an exchange and a castle .....................................................268
Recording a pawn promotion ..........................................................270
Accounting for Ambiguities (Which Knight, for Pete’s Sake?) ..............270
Commenting on a Game after the Fact .....................................................272
Reading Newspaper Diagrams ...................................................................272
Part V: The Part of Tens ............................................275
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277
Understanding the Games ..........................................................................277
Adolf Anderssen versus Lionel Kieseritzky: The Immortal Game ........278
Adolf Anderssen versus J. Dufresne: The Evergreen Game ...................281
Paul Morphy versus Duke Karl of Braunschweig and Count Isouard ....283
Wilhelm Steinitz versus Kurt Von Bardeleben .........................................285
Georg Rotlewi versus Akiba Rubinstein ...................................................288
Stepan Levitsky versus Frank Marshall ....................................................290
Emanuel Lasker versus José Raúl Capablanca ........................................292
Donald Byrne versus Robert J. Fischer ....................................................294
Deep Blue versus Garry Kasparov ............................................................297
Garry Kasparov versus The World ...........................................................299
Chapter 19: The Ten Best Players of All Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305
Kasparov, Garry (1963–), Russia ...............................................................305
Capablanca, José Raúl (1888–1942), Cuba ...............................................306
Fischer, Robert James (1943–), United States .........................................306
Karpov, Anatoly (1951–), Russia ...............................................................307
Morphy, Paul (1837–84), United States ....................................................307
Lasker, Emanuel (1868–1941), Germany ...................................................307
Steinitz, Wilhelm (1836–1900), Austria .....................................................308
Alekhine, Alexander (1892–1946), Russia ................................................308
Botvinnik, Mikhail (1911–95), Russia ........................................................309
Tal, Mikhail (1936–92), Latvia ....................................................................309
Honorable Mentions ...................................................................................310
The Strongest Players Never to Be World Champion .............................310
Chigorin, Mikhail (1850–1908), Russia ............................................311
Tarrasch, Siegbert (1862–1934), Germany .....................................311
Pillsbury, Harry Nelson (1872–1906), United States .....................311
Rubinstein, Akiba (1882–1961), Poland ..........................................311
Reshevsky, Samuel (1911–92), United States .................................312
Keres, Paul (1916–75), Estonia .........................................................312
Korchnoi, Viktor (1931–), Russia .....................................................312
Anand, Viswanathan (1969–), India .................................................312
Table of Contents
Part VI: Appendixes ..................................................313
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .315
Appendix B: Other Chess Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .341
Beginner’s Chess Books .............................................................................341
Comprehensive Chess Course .........................................................341
Official Rules of Chess, Fifth Edition ...............................................341
The Oxford Companion to Chess, Second Edition ........................342
The Even More Complete Chess Addict .........................................342
Chess Equipment ........................................................................................342
The Chess Cafe ..................................................................................342
Your Move Chess & Games ..............................................................342
Informative Internet Resources .................................................................343
U.S. Places, People to See, and Games of Interest ..................................343
Marshall Chess Club .........................................................................344
Mechanics’ Institute Chess Room ...................................................344
The John G. White Collection ..........................................................344
World Chess Hall of Fame & Sidney Samole Chess Museum .......344
Index........................................................................345
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Introduction
S
ome chess players hate to hear someone call chess a game. They think
that by doing so, one trivializes what is actually a profound intellectual
activity. Try as they may, however, chess enthusiasts seem incapable of convincingly placing chess solely in the context of art, science, or sport. Uncannily, chess contains elements of all three — and yet chess remains a game.
Actually, I prefer to think of chess as a game — the best game ever invented.
Chess is a game loved by engineers and free-verse poets alike. It imposes a
set of rules and has finite limits, but just as you start to think that you’re
finally solving its mysteries, it thwarts you. As a result, sometimes the game
is frustrating, but far more often, chess proves both surprising and delightful.
The deeper you dig into chess, the more of its secrets you unearth — but
interestingly enough, the game has never been tapped out. Even today’s monster computers are far from playing the theorized perfect chess game.
To master chess, you must combine a kind of discipline normally associated
with the hard sciences and a creative freedom akin to the inspiration of artists.
Few people develop both aspects equally well, and few activities can help
you do so. Chess, however, is one such activity. The plodding scientist is
forced to tap into his or her creative energies to play well. The fanciful artist
must, in turn, conform to certain specific principles or face the harsh reality
of a lost game. Not only is chess an excellent educational tool that helps
strengthen your left brain, but the game is also an endless source of pleasure.
After most people discover that I play chess, they usually say, “You must be
very smart.” They should instead say, “You must have a lot of spare time.”
Chess has been played throughout history by people with above-average
leisure time, not necessarily by people with far-above-average intelligence —
so if you don’t consider yourself in the “I-aced-the-MCAT” crowd, fear no more.
As a matter of fact, chess tutors can teach preschoolers the rules of the game.
(So maybe they can’t get the tots to stop chewing on the pieces, but they can
teach the youngsters how to play.) In fact, anyone can learn how to play chess
if you have a bit of spare time. And you don’t even need too much of that.
About This Book
This book is designed to help you become a better chess player in several
ways: First, it contains a great deal of information and advice on how to play
chess. You can also find in these pages information about how to talk about
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Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
chess, which, to many players, is at least as important as knowing how to
play. (Part of the fun of chess is the social element involved in discussing
other people’s games — called kibitzing.) Finally, the book offers numerous
suggestions on how to find other players who are just about at your own
level (and how to mind your chess manners when you sit down to play!).
If you’re a beginner, the great joys of chess await you. If you’re an intermediate player, you can find in this book a wealth of material to help you improve
your game and to enjoy chess even more.
What’s New in This Edition
In this edition, I’ve made quite a few updates to stay with the times and to
help you improve your play. Among the updates are the following:
⻬ I use chess notation more liberally than in the first edition, so if you want
to be able to read notated games well, this book provides plenty of opportunities to hone your skills. With the exception of a couple of chapters,
however, it isn’t essential for you to be familiar with the notation.
⻬ I’ve included new material on two helpful subjects: combinations, which
are sequences of forcing moves that rely on tactics to achieve an advantage, and pawn formations, which are pawn configurations associated
with specific chess openings. You can find that material in Chapters 5
and 9, respectively.
⻬ Not too long ago, the only way to get information on chess was from
books and magazines. Now, numerous chess videos, CDs, DVDs, and
Web sites are dedicated to various aspects of the game. This edition
includes references to helpful sites in your hunt for chess knowledge.
Conventions Used in This Book
Throughout this book, I use diagrams of actual chessboards to show the positions I discuss. This convention should sometimes eliminate the need for you
to have a chessboard and set in order to use the book — but even so, it’s
better if you follow along with an actual board and set. Just note that in these
diagrams, the white pieces always start at the bottom of the chessboards,
and the black pieces start at the top.
I also use sidebars throughout the book to introduce famous players or to
add miscellaneous information you don’t really need to know in order to play
chess. Rather, I’ve included this information to increase your sheer enjoyment
of the game.
Introduction
Here are a few other conventions to keep in mind:
⻬ Throughout this book, I refer to moves with chess notation, which I usually place in parentheses. You can skip over this stuff if you don’t want
to find out how to decipher it, but if you do, you can flip ahead to
Chapter 17 whenever you’re up to the challenge. (Understanding it really
isn’t tough, though — believe me!)
⻬ I use italics whenever I define a chess term in this edition. You can use
the glossary as a quick reference for these terms, as well as a resource
to discover other chess words.
⻬ I use monofont to point out any Web sites that I recommend.
Foolish Assumptions
In this edition, I assume that you already know how to play chess and that
you want to get better. I include enough information to help a beginner get
started, but I assume that everyone knows someone who already knows how
to play chess. I also assume that you’ll be able to find someone to help you if
you’re a beginner and have any problems with the material in this book. (And
if you don’t know anyone who can, I provide plenty of Web sites and computer programs that can help you navigate the road to the world of chess.)
After all, everyone has to start somewhere.
How This Book Is Organized
I’ve organized this book into six parts so you can easily find just the information you need.
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Chapter 1 briefs you about the game of chess and familiarizes you with the
board. It assumes that you do have a chessboard and set. You may proceed
in any case, because this chapter contains plenty of pictures, but your best
course is to work through the chapter with a board and set of your own. In
that chapter, you walk through the basic setup of the chessboard and get
the scoop on some of the basic chess terminology used more extensively in
later chapters.
3
4
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
Chapter 2 provides an in-depth look at each piece in the chess set, detailing
its strengths and weaknesses and how it moves. I also clue you in on the
value of the pieces, relative to one another — you need to know this information in order to make wise decisions in your game.
Chapter 3 introduces you to the basic elements of a game of chess. You find
out about material, space, development, and other chess elements. After
reading this chapter, you can give a rough assessment of almost any chess
position.
Chapter 4 points you toward your desired destination: checkmate. Here, I
show you the basics on checkmate, and I also give you the rundown on a less
decisive, but still forcing move — check — as well as a scenario you want to
avoid if you’re on the winning end — stalemate, which is essentially a tie
game (in chess, that situation is known as a draw).
Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
Chapter 5 deals with different types of tactical situations and combinations of
those tactics. Most games are lost by mistakes made in these areas, so pay
careful attention to the information in this chapter. Chapter 6 deals with
another important concept: sacrifices. Sometimes, taking a hit is a wise move
in order to secure a greater advantage.
Pattern recognition plays a large role in chess, because certain configurations
of pieces and pawns occur relatively frequently. If you already know the ideal
way to play when these configurations occur, you don’t have to reinvent the
wheel every game. Chapter 7 concentrates on checkmating patterns, while
Chapter 8 deals with pattern recognition more generally, and Chapter 9 examines commonly occurring pawn formations.
Chapter 10 covers those rules of the game that are less commonly understood by most players. These rules start at least half the arguments that
break out among beginning chess players, so taking a good look at them may
save you some unpleasantness.
Part III: Game Time: Putting
Your Chess Foot Forward
Chapter 11 introduces the general principles of play that form the basics of
chess strategy. From there, I take you through the three phases of a chess
game: the opening, middlegame, and endgame. Each phase has its own
Introduction
nuances, and you need to understand each of them in order to play a good
game. Chapter 12 is devoted to the opening, Chapter 13 deals with the middlegame, and Chapter 14 covers the endgame.
Part IV: Getting into Advanced Action
In Chapter 15, I show you the competitive side of chess, giving you the ins
and outs of the various kinds of competitions you can participate in and how
to go about doing so. Here, I also point out some etiquette matters that you’ll
want to bear in mind when you find yourself in competition play.
Chapter 16 surfs the information superhighway for computer and online
chess opportunities and offers an account of what’s out there now.
Chapter 17 kicks your chess knowledge up a notch, explaining the mysterious
system of chess notation and showing you how to record your games for
posterity — or for anyone else you want to show the game. You’ll also be
able to read about various games that have been previously played.
Part V: The Part of Tens
Chapters 18 and 19 are the Part of Tens, where I do a top-ten countdown on
aspects of the game of chess. Specifically, in Chapter 18, I discuss the ten
most famous chess games of all time; in Chapter 19, I list the ten best chess
players of all time, which is always a controversial subject.
Part VI: Appendixes
Finally, I provide a glossary at the end of this book (Appendix A), in case
some of these odd chess terms don’t get past your short-term memory and
you need to refer back to them at a later time. Appendix B lists some of the
best chess resources and how to connect with them.
Icons Used in This Book
The icons used in this book point you to important topics and help you pick
out what you want to know. Make a mental note of the following icons to
guide you on your path to chess greatness.
5
6
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
If you’re interested in chess matters that take you beyond the introductory
level, this icon points the way.
More books have been written about chess than all other games combined!
This icon signals some of those books you may want to read — or even add to
your chess library.
This icon wouldn’t be necessary if chess didn’t have so many good, general
rules. Keep the rules of thumb in mind when you play. You’ll be surprised
how many you can retain — and how helpful they can be.
This icon points to helpful hints — anything from playing better chess to
where you find more chess stuff.
This icon warns you of impending danger that you just may be able to avoid.
Where to Go from Here
If you have no knowledge of chess whatsoever, I highly suggest that you start
right at the beginning with Chapter 1. Otherwise, just remember that it’s perfectly okay to skip around through the book to locate the chapters and sections of most interest or use to you.
Dig in!
Part I
Laying the
Groundwork
I
In this part . . .
n this part I show you how to set up a chessboard and
discuss the chess pieces and the ways they move. I
also describe the elements of chess; the concepts of material, development, space, pawn structure, and king
safety are considered fundamental elements of the game,
so I cover each of them here. I also foreshadow the end of
the game as I define check, stalemate, and checkmate and
show you what they look like in play.
Chapter 1
Tackling the Chess Basics
In This Chapter
䊳 Learning what chess is all about
䊳 Familiarizing yourself with the chessboard
䊳 Setting up your army
I
f you’re new to chess, don’t despair. No chess gene decides who can and
can’t play. Everyone can learn to play a passable game of chess, and after
you come on board, it’s just a matter of time until you find someone you can
play well against. If you’re satisfied with participating in an endlessly fascinating and stimulating mental activity — an activity that sports a rich history
and may provide you with countless hours of amusement — you’re in luck.
You can play chess; take my word for it.
In this chapter, I define the game of chess and discuss the basics of how you
play and the materials you need.
Chesstacular! The Basics of the Game
Chess is a board game for two — one player uses white pieces, and the other
uses black. Each player gets 16 pieces to maneuver (see Chapter 2 for a rundown of the piece profiles). Players take turns moving one piece at a time,
with the ultimate objective of checkmating their opponent’s king (you find
out about this overarching goal in Chapter 4).
Because chess has so many great rules and because the pieces all exercise
their individuality with different moves and abilities, the game has lots of
interesting nuances that you should keep in mind as you play. I cover each
aspect of the game in this book, so if you’re a novice you’ll find sufficient
information to get acquainted with chess, and if you already know how to
play but want to hone your prowess, you’ll find plenty of information to help
you do just that. This section gives you the nutshell version of all this book
has to offer.
10
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
The underlying concepts
Components of a chess game can be broken down into categories that are so
fundamental that they’re referred to as elements. The element of time, or
development, is one example. The element of force, or material, is another. If
one player deploys more force more quickly than the other, it may be impossible for the latter player to defend against a subsequent invasion. The first
step in a player’s development is learning how the pieces move, so I cover
the bases in Chapter 2. Then an appreciation of the importance of the game’s
elements usually follows, so I describe all the chess elements in Chapter 3.
The elements are all a part of what drives a game to the desired end result:
checkmate. However, checkmate doesn’t always come to fruition — sometimes
a game ends in stalemate, or a draw. There’s also a situation called check,
which is an attack on the king. If the king can’t escape the check, then the
aggressor has secured checkmate, and the game is over. One thing to note,
however, is that placing your opponent in check doesn’t necessarily mean
you’ll win — check can actually happen several times in a game, and if your
opponent can effectively escape from check, then you may just be wasting
your time. I discuss all three of these endings in Chapter 4.
Holding an advantage in one or more of the elements of chess doesn’t guarantee victory. It does, however, increase the likelihood of success. When the
inevitable clash of opposing armies takes place, the resulting tactical possibilities will generally favor the one with elemental advantages. These clashes
usually feature common tactics and combinations such as the ones that I present in Chapter 5. Tactics decide the outcome of most of the games played at
a fairly competitive level, so a good understanding of the basic tactics and
combinations pays off extremely well.
One of the ways an advantage can be transformed into victory is through sacrifice. A game of chess is a constant process of giving up something in order
to get something else. It makes sense to give up some of your force, for example, if it allows you to checkmate the enemy king. Chapter 6 provides examples of when sacrifices are justified, and Chapter 7 illustrates a number of
common ways to deliver checkmate. These types of checkmates appear so
often in chess games that players refer to them as mating patterns.
Things to recognize to make wise decisions
One key to playing chess well is the ability to recognize patterns. When you
spot a pattern with which you’re familiar, the right moves suddenly suggest
themselves. Chapter 8 deals with building pattern recognition in chess.
Due to the starting lineup and the piece movement limitations, only the knight
can move at the start of the game, so you have to move some pawns in order
to get your other pieces out. The positioning of the pawns often determines
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics
the optimal positioning of the pieces. Certain pawn positions, or formations
as players often call them, have occurred in so many games that they have
their own names. Chapter 9 presents some of the more common ones and
shows how the pawns guide you on where to put the pieces.
You also have some special moves at your disposal that your opponent (if he
or she is a novice) may not know about. To give you an edge (and a resource
to help quell any arguments that may arise after you make one of these tricky
moves!), I provide the inside scoop on some special moves in Chapter 10.
There usually comes a time in every player’s development when he or she is
at a loss for what to do next. Or sometimes a player will see a move by a
stronger player and have no idea why that move was made. At this point, the
principles of play, or strategies, are necessary in order to make further
progress. Chapter 11 provides an introduction to chess strategy.
The militaristic character of chess is undeniable, but it also holds appeal for
the confirmed peacenik. Although many of the strategies of war apply equally
well to chess (divide and conquer, for example), many people gain ascetic
pleasure from playing or watching a well-played game. Well-known patterns
can appear with an unexpected twist and delight the observer. At an advanced
level, you’ll discover harmonies that lie just below the surface of the moves,
and a move that breaks that harmony will feel as discordant as an off-key note
in music. So take heart, consider the information this book provides, and
allow yourself to get comfortable with the pieces, their powers, and all the
exciting aspects of this strategic, creative game. Besides, unlike real warfare,
the worst you’ll suffer in your chess career is a bruised ego.
Three parts that make a whole
Players divide the chess game into three phases — opening, middlegame, and
endgame — to better understand the different demands of each one, but you
really need to understand a game as a whole and not just in terms of its separate parts. Otherwise, playing the game can be a bit like eating Chinese food
with one chopstick.
Here’s a quick breakdown of what each phase entails (see Chapters 12
through 14 for an in-depth look):
⻬ The opening: The main objective of the opening moves is to effectively
activate your forces. The term development refers to this type of activation, and I cover it in more detail in Chapter 3.
⻬ The middlegame: This phase is where the opposing armies most frequently clash. The terms tactics and combinations are frequently used to
describe these clashes.
⻬ The endgame: By this phase, the forces have been greatly reduced in
number, but checkmate hasn’t yet been delivered.
11
12
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Different ways to get your game on
If you’re the type of player that wants to be tested in competition, check out
Chapter 15. Chess tournaments come in a variety of flavors, and that chapter
gives you the scoop. You need to know how to act as well as how to play, so I
also cover chess etiquette in that chapter.
In this day and age, you don’t need to be physically located next to an opponent in order to play, and Chapter 16 gives the lowdown on computer chess
and chess in cyberspace. Chess on the Internet has blossomed, but you need
to be aware that nothing is permanent. Although the Web is ever changing,
the addresses I provide have proven to be very stable, so they should take
you where you want to go.
A game to write home about
In order to up the ante and read about other people’s chess games, as well as
decipher commentary throughout those games, called annotation, and record
your own games for posterity, you need to have a solid handle on chess notation. Chess notation is a form of shorthand that may seem intimidating at
first glance but is really quite straightforward. Chapter 17 will help you
develop your chess literacy and enable you to efficiently read and write
about the game.
Chessboard Chatter: Bringing Home
a Board and Chess Set
So you’ve decided all this chess stuff is up your alley. Well, first things first,
you need a chessboard and chess set (the collection of chess pieces). If you
don’t own a board and chess set, you can turn to Appendix B for mail-order
information. You’ll find it extremely helpful to have a board and chess set on
hand when reading chess books. Some people can do without one — but
some people can memorize the works of John Milton, too. (And who wants to
be like that?)
Throughout this book I include numerous diagrams to help you understand
the game, but they don’t take the place of a real set and board; these diagrams
serve primarily as an error check. I urge you to get out your chessboard and
set when you’re reading and set up the board as the diagrams show you. That
way, you get a real-life view of the moves I describe.
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics
Finding the right board and set
Your first challenge in finding a chessboard and set is to sort through the
many available types. A tremendous range in sizes, colors, and quality exists.
The name of the standard design, which is distinguished by the look of the
pieces, is the Staunton (see Figure 1-1). This design bears the name of the
great English player Howard Staunton and was registered in 1849. Its popularity was so great that it was adopted as the one and only design allowed in
official tournaments. If you play with strangers and bring anything other than
a Staunton-designed set, people may assume that you’re trying to psych them
out by using equipment that they aren’t familiar with. You probably don’t
want to start off on the wrong foot.
Figure 1-1:
The
standard
chess
set: the
Staunton.
Photo courtesy U.S. Chess Federation. Photo of US1425s: Standard Tournament Chess Set.
Wood sets and boards in the Staunton design are more popular at higher levels
of competition, but a typical tournament set can be made of plastic pieces in
classic white and black. The board is generally of a vinyl roll-up variety with
white and green squares. “Why not black squares?” you may justifiably ask.
“Headaches,” I would answer. I’ve learned that staring at a high-contrast board
is not to be recommended. The only exception is for the miniature traveling
sets. It doesn’t matter what color they are, because the makers assume that
you won’t be staring at them too long (especially if you’re driving!).
13
14
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
If price is no object, wood pieces and boards are the way to go. Wood boards
provide the most soothing background possible, and the weight and feel of
wood pieces are generally far more satisfying to the touch. In case you’re
really getting into chess, collectible sets have a small cottage industry of
their own, and these sets vary in design as well as in quality.
Getting up close and personal
with your board
After you pick up your soon-to-be-beloved chessboard and set, you need to
get familiar with them. The first thing to notice about the chessboard is that
all the squares are the same size but alternate between two colors (a light
color — usually white — and a darker color). Colors are important in chess
(bishops are confined to only one of them, knights go back and forth between
them, and so on), which is why chess players insist that a white square needs
to be in the lower right-hand corner at the start of the game. Start by whipping out the board and making sure it’s facing the right direction in front of
you — Figure 1-2 shows the correct orientation (if you set this book on your
lap and look at the figure, you get a better idea).
Remember, a white square should be in the lower right-hand corner as you
face the board. The most common beginner mistake is to position the board
incorrectly at the start of the game. (As a matter of fact, Hollywood makes this
common mistake, too. Whenever you see a chess position in a movie, check to
see whether the lower right-hand square is white. Chances are it won’t be!)
Figure 1-2:
The correct
orientation
of a
chessboard.
A white square!
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics
Consider a few fun facts while you’re scoping out your chessboard:
⻬ It’s made up of 64 squares evenly divided between 32 light squares and
32 dark squares.
⻬ It’s symmetrical and square — in the geometric sense.
⻬ The square comprises eight ranks and eight files (and a bunch of diagonals), which you’d normally call rows and columns (and diagonals!), but
chess people shun such conventional language. (Using clear, easy-tounderstand terms would be too easy, right?)
To make it easier to talk about the pieces on the board, someone somewhere
sometime came up with a naming system for the ranks and files, and I use
those conventions throughout this book to point out the exact pieces and
squares to which I’m referring. In Chapter 17, I dive even deeper into the subject of notation, which expands on these naming conventions and shows you
how to write the moves of a game. You really don’t need to know this stuff in
order to enjoy playing chess, but it does help to have the basic terminology
under your belt, and throughout this book, you can read the extra notation
information I give to you as I explain moves.
Recognizing the ranks
Ranks are rows that go from side to side across the chessboard and are
referred to by numbers. Each chessboard has eight ranks, which are numbered from the bottom of the board (where the white pieces start) on up;
see Figure 1-3.
8
7
6
5
Ranks
4
Figure 1-3:
The ranks
of a
chessboard
go from side
to side.
3
2
1
15
16
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Figuring out the files
Files are columns that go up and down the chessboard, and each board has
eight of them. Because numbers indicate ranks, letters indicate files, which
are labeled from left to right. Figure 1-4 shows the files.
Figure 1-4:
A chessboard’s files
go from top
to bottom.
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Files
Naming individual squares
The naming convention for ranks and files allows you to give a unique identifier to every square by using what chess people call the file-first method. For
example, the lower right-hand square (which is white, of course) is called h1.
This name is shorthand for h-file, first rank. Figure 1-5 gives the name for
every square.
When figuring out the names of individual squares, it may be helpful to think
of the games Bingo and Battleship, where every square has a letter and a
number (and the names may be easier to figure out if you’re sitting on the
“white” side — or bottom — of the chessboard). Of course, in Battleship you
get to see only your pieces and have to guess where your enemy’s are. In
chess, however, you know where your opponent’s pieces are — you just have
to guess where he or she is going to move!
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics
Figure 1-5:
The squares
are marked
to show the
letter of the
file and the
number of
the rank.
8
a8
b8
c8
d8
e8
f8
g8
h8
7
a7
b7
c7
d7
e7
f7
g7
h7
6
a6
b6
c6
d6
e6
f6
g6
h6
5
a5
b5
c5
d5
e5
f5
g5
h5
4
a4
b4
c4
d4
e4
f4
g4
h4
3
a3
b3
c3
d3
e3
f3
g3
h3
2
a2
b2
c2
d2
e2
f2
g2
h2
1
a1
b1
c1
d1
e1
f1
g1
h1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Digging those diagonals
As you probably expect, diagonals have names, too. Unlike ranks and files,
diagonals are defined by their starting and ending squares. The starting
square is conventionally given as the one with the lower rank. For example,
Figure 1-6 shows the h1-a8 diagonal. Diagonals are always composed of likecolored squares. You can have light-squared diagonals and dark-squared
diagonals — but never two-toned ones.
8
7
6
Figure 1-6:
The
diagonals
on a
chessboard
always
contain likecolored
squares.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
17
18
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Piecemeal: Putting the Pieces
on the Board
In order to depict the chessboard in a way that everyone around the world
can understand, chess players have developed a set of symbols to represent
the pieces. Each piece may be represented by a one-letter abbreviation or by
an icon. (See Table 1-1 for a list of all the pieces and their symbols.)
Table 1-1
Chess Pieces and Their Symbols
Piece
Symbol
King
Queen
Knight
Bishop
Rook
Pawn
I use the piece symbols here to show you how to set up the board, and I use
them throughout this book to demonstrate various moves and positions. You
may find it helpful to set up your own board piece by piece. Start with the
corners. The rooks go on the corner squares, as in Figure 1-7.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 1-7:
The rooks 3
take the
corner 2
squares. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics
Next come the knights. Place them next to the rooks (see Figure 1-8).
8
7
6
5
Figure 1-8:
The knights
stand by
their rooks,
along the
same rank.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Then put the bishops on the board next to the knights (see Figure 1-9).
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 1-9:
The bishops 3
stand guard
by the 2
knights. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
After the bishops come the queens. Your board should now look like the one
in Figure 1-10.
The queens always start on the square of the same shade — the white queen
starts on a light square, and the black queen starts on a dark square.
19
20
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
8
7
6
5
Figure 1-10:
The queens
perch on the
squares of
their own
shade.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Next, place the kings next to the queens, which is only fitting (see Figure 1-11).
8
7
6
5
Figure 1-11:
The kings
take their
thrones,
next to their
ladies.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Lastly, add the pawns straight across the rank in front of the other pieces, as
shown in Figure 1-12.
If you set up your chessboard by using the preceding directions and it looks
like the finished one in Figure 1-12, pat yourself on the back! You’re ready for
a game.
Chapter 1: Tackling the Chess Basics
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 1-12:
The pawns 3
take their
posts on the 2
front line. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The origins of chess
The true origins of chess are shrouded in the
mists of prehistory, which is good because it
allows people to say just about anything they
want about how the game started without fear
of contradiction. From the evidence that does
exist, the best guess is that chess, or a game
very much like it, originated in Northern India
sometime around AD 600 and eventually
migrated to Europe through China and Persia
(modern-day Iran). The ancient Indian game
was based on Indian armies and was undoubtedly a pastime for their rulers.
No doubt, this game, called chaturanga, was
much like present-day chess. It was played on
an eight-by-eight-square board and used six different kinds of pieces. The Indian Army was led
by the rajah (king) and his chief advisor, the
mantri, sometimes referred to as the vizier. The
army was represented by foot soldiers, cavalry,
chariots, and elephants, and the game had corresponding pieces for all these leaders and
warriors.
By the time the game got to Europe, it had
changed considerably and continued to change
until about the end of the 15th century. The
changes basically made the game more familiar to the Europeans who were then playing it.
The rajah became the king, the mantri the
queen, the foot soldiers the pawns, the cavalry
the knights, the chariots the rooks, and the elephants the bishops. Since that time, the game
has been essentially stable. Nowadays, chess
is played all over the world by the same rules
established in Europe in the 15th century, under
the control of the Fédération Internationale
des Échecs (FIDE), which is French for the
International Chess Federation.
21
22
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Chapter 2
Greeting the Pieces
and Their Powers
In This Chapter
䊳 Towering above you (if you’re an ant, that is): The rook
䊳 Seeing the bishop outside of church
䊳 Kissing the queen’s hand
䊳 Bowing before the king
䊳 Mounting the knight
䊳 Giving the pawn (which isn’t really a piece!) the time of day
A
fter years of teaching chess to elementary school children, I think I’ve
found the easiest way to introduce the pieces. So in this chapter I use
the same method. I start with the rook because its simple up, down, and sideto-side movement is easy to grasp. Then I move on to the bishop because it,
too, moves in straight lines and boldly goes where the rook can’t. Kids seem
to pick up these ideas right away. And what’s good for kids is certainly good
for older students of the game, right?
After you understand the moves of the rook and bishop, you’ll have a breeze
when it comes to the queen. The queen simply has the combined powers of
the rook and bishop. And the king follows his queen. He moves just like her,
except only one square at a time. I leave the knight and pawn for the end
because they’re the trickiest to explain.
Keep in mind that chess is a science when pieces are considered in isolation
from one another, but it approaches an art when the pieces are combined in
various ways. All pieces like to have company, but they’re fickle; sometimes a
queen and knight are happy together and sometimes they aren’t. No easy
rules explain this relationship. The chess genius seems to know how to make
the pieces work together seamlessly, but everyone else has to muddle along
by trial and error. In Chapter 3, I consider the elements of chess in the same
way — in isolation from one another and then again in combination.
24
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Mimicking a Castle: The Rook
Sure, you may believe the rook is a tower or castle, but oh contraire! In the
history of chess, it actually developed from the chariot: This piece is both
fast and strong and therefore of considerable value. The rook appears a bit
squatter than the other pieces, which partly accounts for the perception of it
as a heavy piece (see the “Chess heavies” sidebar, later in this chapter).
This heavy aspect can be taken too far, of course. The rook is far from a plodding piece, and the player who most effectively gets his or her rooks into the
game often turns out to be the winner. Unfortunately, this piece begins the
game tucked into a corner and usually has to wait for the other pieces to
settle into their preferred squares before receiving any attention.
Figure 2-1 shows where the rooks go on the chessboard.
8
7
6
5
Figure 2-1:
At the start
of a game,
the rooks
hold down
the corners.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The rook has the freedom to move any number of squares, but only in straight
lines up and down or side to side, as indicated by the rook on d5 in Figure 2-2a.
Again, think of the chariot. After a chariot gets a head of steam, turning corners isn’t easy. Have you ever seen Ben Hur? The rook moves just like the
chariot in that movie, but without the spikes.
In Figure 2-2b, you can see that the rook can’t move to a square occupied by
one of its own pieces, in this case another rook on f5 — nor can it jump over
the piece and move to any of the other squares along that rank.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
Chess heavies
The rook and queen are sometimes referred to
as heavy or major pieces, because the rook and
its own king, or the queen and its own king, can
checkmate an enemy king by themselves (see
8
Figure 2-2:
A rook can
move any
number of
squares
unless a
fellow
soldier is
blocking it.
7
6
5
x x x
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
x
x
x
Chapter 4 for a discussion of checkmate). Minor
pieces — the knight and the bishop by themselves — can’t checkmate an enemy king with
only their own king for assistance.
8
7
6
x x x x
x
x
x
x
5
x x x
4
3
2
1
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
In Figure 2-3a, a white rook and a black rook are ready for battle. The white
rook can’t move beyond the black rook along that rank, but it can capture it by
removing the black piece and taking its place, as in Figure 2-3b. (In chess notation, this move is written 1. Rxf5 — see Chapter 17 for details on notation.) This
concept is the same for the other chessmen (and woman). But don’t think that
you have to capture when given the opportunity. This isn’t checkers!
Figure 2-3:
The
white rook
attacks and
captures the
black rook.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
25
26
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
What do a bishop and an elephant
have in common?
The bishop evolved from the elephant, which
may be hard to imagine at first. Elephants don’t
have slender waists, at least not the ones I’ve
seen. However, if you think about the ancient
Indian soldier sitting atop an elephant and tossing down spears at the enemy, or if you visualize the medieval archer in a castle tower firing
arrows down on a hapless foe, you can understand how this development came about. The
bishop doesn’t like hand-to-hand fighting and is
at its best when attacking from long range. If
you think about it, would you rather be shooting
arrows safely out of harm’s way or down in the
trenches getting trampled? Archers weren’t
stupid.
Why, then, is the piece called a bishop and not
an archer? Oddly enough, it’s simply because the
look of the carved piece resembled a bishop’s
miter (the pointed hat that bishops wear) to
medieval Europeans. What probably started as
an off-hand remark soon became a custom.
When new players discover the power of the rook, they sometimes decide to
move the pawns that are in front of the rooks forward at the beginning of the
game (these pawns are known as the rook pawns). This action has the advantage of increasing the space available to the rook but is usually a poor way to
open the game. The rook must retreat when attacked by an enemy pawn, knight,
or bishop because it is too valuable to be lost in exchange for one of them.
Time is then lost shuffling the rook to and fro while the enemy pieces come
out in force. The best strategy is to move a minimum number of pawns, get the
minor pieces (knights and bishops) out, and only then move on to the rooks.
Showing Off Slender Curves: The Bishop
The bishop has a slender waist so it can slide between squares along diagonals. (Actually, I don’t really know why the bishop was designed like that, but
that’s always how I’ve thought of it). The bishop is called a minor piece,
because you can’t deliver checkmate with just a bishop and its king. Go
ahead, set up a board and try it (you may want to check out Chapter 4 first).
If you can do it, you’ll become world famous, and I’ll include you in the next
edition. Figure 2-4 shows the bishops and where they start on the chessboard.
A bishop can move any number of squares, but only along the diagonals and
until another piece gets in its way. If that piece is the opponent’s, the bishop
can capture it, of course, by displacing it.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-4: 3
The bishops
take their 2
marks. 1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
Figure 2-5a indicates some possible bishop moves. Unlike the rook, the attacking power of the bishop depends on where the piece is located on the chessboard and ultimately its mobility or scope, which is simply the number of
squares it can move to. The bishop attacks more squares in the center, so it’s
more powerful when positioned there. Unfortunately, it’s also more easily
attacked there. You can see in Figure 2-5a that the bishop attacks 13 squares.
How many squares does it attack in Figure 2-5b? (The correct answer is 9 —
don’t count the square that it occupies.)
8
x
7
Figure 2-5:
The bishop
attacks 13
squares
and (fill in
the blank)
squares,
respectively.
x
6
x
x
x
x
8
7
6
5
5
4
3
2
x
x
x
x
4
x
3
x
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
2
x
h
1
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
27
28
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
You can tell by looking at the board that some diagonals are longer than
others. The diagonals that cross the board’s center are longer than the ones
that bisect the corners. Because the bishop doesn’t like hand-to-hand
combat, players often position the bishop out of the way along a long diagonal, as in Figure 2-5b.
The bishop also has a unique natural restriction of its mobility: If it starts on
a light square, it remains forever on the light squares, and if it begins the
game on a dark square, it must always stay on dark squares. The bishop is
color bound by birth! Fully half the board is forbidden territory! For that
reason, chess people speak of having “the two bishops.” In tandem, bishops
can theoretically cover the entire board. However, they can never come to
their comrade’s aid directly and can never compensate for each other’s loss.
This quality is so unusual that a special category in chess endings, called the
opposite-colored bishop ending, exists. This ending arises when each side
remains with a bishop, but the bishops are on different-colored squares and
are thereby sentenced to roam their own mutually exclusive halves of the
board. Figure 2-6 illustrates this type of ending. These bishops are close to
one another — they can get close enough to blow each other kisses — but
never close enough to capture one another.
8
7
6
Figure 2-6:
The
thoroughly
unsatisfying
oppositecolored
bishop
ending.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The bishop, like the rook, can be blocked by its own army. In fact, the least
desirable placement of the bishop is behind pawns of its own color: Pawns
are the least mobile of the chessmen and can render the bishop nearly powerless, as shown in Figure 2-7a. A bishop blocked behind its own pawns is
often called a “bad bishop.” Enemy pawns can also be used to restrict the
bishop’s mobility, as in Figure 2-7b.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
Figure 2-7:
The bishop,
blocked by
its own
pawns and
enemy
pawns.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
However, restricting a bishop with pawns isn’t always effective, because the
bishop may be able to capture one of the enemy pawns. Just look at Figures
2-8a and 2-8b to see how (1. Bxf3).
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
Figure 2-8:
3
The bishop
pounces on 2
a pawn.
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
If you plan on using your pawns to restrict a bishop’s mobility — which is a
good thing to do, as long as you aren’t restricting your own bishops — you’d
better make certain that the pawns are adequately defended!
Bishop moves are relatively easy to master, but their long-range attacking
ability is often surprising. Many are the times when I’ve been shocked to see
my opponent’s bishops spring from one corner of the board to the other. Just
because your opponent’s bishops aren’t close to your pieces doesn’t mean
they aren’t attacking you!
29
30
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Flaunting Her Pointy Crown: The Queen
The most powerful piece is the queen. A piece’s power is directly related to
its mobility, and the queen is the most mobile. Although the queen is the
most powerful piece, she must be very careful when engaging enemy forces.
If rooks or minor pieces attack her, she’s often forced to retreat or be lost.
Treat the lady with kid gloves!
Figure 2-9 indicates where the queens are placed at the start of the game.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-9: 3
The queens
take their 2
seats. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The queen’s moves are simply the combination of the rook’s up-and-down,
side-to-side moves and the bishop’s diagonal moves — basically, she can
move any number of squares in any direction. Her only restriction is that she
can’t jump over pieces. The queen captures an opponent by taking the opponent’s place on the board.
The birth of the queen
The queen evolved from the Indian vizier who
was the king’s chief minister or advisor.
Originally a weak piece, the queen was given its
great powers towards the end of the 15th century. Whether this bestowal was an act of
chivalry or just another attempt to speed up the
game remains unclear. It seems certain, however, that medieval Europe was accustomed to
powerful queens — and this reality can also
explain the gender change.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
To get an idea of the queen’s strength, just put one in the middle of an empty
chessboard — which, by the way, is a situation that will never happen if you’re
playing chess by the rules! When placed in the center of the board, the queen
can cover 27 squares and can move in eight different directions, which you can
see in Figure 2-10.
8
7
6
Figure 2-10:
The queen’s
reign nearly
covers the
board when
placed at
the center.
5
4
3
2
1
x
x
x
x
x
x
x x x
x x x
x x x x
x x x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The queen covers fewer squares when placed on the side of the board, so her
powers are slightly reduced in that case. However, it’s far too dangerous to
post the valuable queen in the center of the board too early in the game,
where any members of the opposing army can harass her. Far more commonly, you’ll see masters post the queen in a more conservative position
early and wait to centralize her later, when pieces have been exchanged and
the danger to her reduced.
The queen is not only the most powerful and dangerous chess piece, but also
the most valuable! Moving her into positions where she can be easily attacked
is generally frowned upon. Let your other pieces and pawns fight the early
fight, and bring the queen into the game after some of the dust settles. If your
opponent moves the queen to your side of the board early on, take heart! It’s
probably a mistake. Look for ways to move your pieces so they attack the
exposed queen and force her to retreat.
Donning a Buggy Crown: The King
The king isn’t the most powerful chess piece (the queen is), but he’s the most
important (and in conventional chess sets, he’s the tallest). When someone
attacks your king, you must defend him. If the king is attacked and you can’t
31
32
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
defend him, then you have checkmate . . . and the game is over (see Chapter
4 for information on checkmate). But you never actually capture the king; you
simply force him to yield. Thousands may die on the battlefield, but royalty
respects royalty. (Yet don’t forget that the king can capture, just like the
other pieces, by taking over an opponent’s square!)
Figure 2-11 shows where the king resides on the chessboard at the start of
the game.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-11:
The kings, 3
seated on
their 2
thrones. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The king can move one square in any direction, except for the one-time possibility of castling (see Chapter 10 for this special move). The kings may never
get too close to one another, but must remain at arm’s length (at least one
square away), because one king may never put the other in check. You can
see the king’s possible moves for yourself in Figure 2-12.
8
7
x x x
x
x
x x x
6
5
Figure 2-12:
The Xs mark
the king’s
possible
moves from
his location.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
You may expect a king to lead his troops into battle, but that analogy doesn’t
quite work, because the king usually hides away in a corner behind pawns until
it’s safe to come out. Generally, when the king becomes active, the endgame
(when most pieces have been captured) has begun. During the endgame the
king can become very powerful, and you should consider bringing him to the
center, but a king in the middle of the board during the middlegame is a recipe
for disaster (check out Chapters 13 and 14 for details on endgame and middlegame strategy).
Galloping in an L-Formation: The Knight
The knight is a tricky piece, and it usually takes a little practice getting comfortable with its movements. As its shape suggests, the knight derives from
the cavalry of the armies of old. Because it can’t deliver checkmate against
an opponent with only its own king to help, the knight is a minor piece, as is
the bishop — but the knight’s powers are very different. Unlike the longrange bishop, the knight loves combat in close quarters and is usually the
first piece moved off the back rank and the first to come into contact with the
opposing army. The knight is indeed hopping mad and ready to fight!
Figure 2-13 shows the knights’ starting place.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 2-13:
The knights 2
begin here. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
It helps me to think of the knight as a medieval knight on horseback with a
lance. You can’t throw a lance very far, but if the bad guys get too close
they’re liable to get stabbed. Oddly, if an enemy can get past the lance and
closer still to the knight, the knight is defenseless. (The knight would need to
dismount, drop its lance, and draw a sword in order to fight at very close
33
34
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
range — but this is too time-consuming, besides being against the rules of
chess!) Strangely enough, although the knight is a strong attacking piece, it
can’t control the squares right next to it.
The easiest way to understand the knight move is to think of it as an L-shape
in any direction. Two squares up and one over, or one square down and two
over, or any such combination. It captures just as the other chess pieces do,
by replacing the piece or pawn occupying the square it lands on — and not
the players it jumps over. Figure 2-14a illustrates where the knight can move
from the center of the board. The knight controls eight squares when positioned in the center of the board as opposed to two when it’s in one of the
corners, as Figure 2-14b illustrates.
8
8
7
Figure 2-14:
The knight’s
possible
moves, from
the center
and from a
corner.
x
6
x
x
7
x
6
5
5
x
4
3
x
x
x
4
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
x
a
b
c
d
e
f
x
g
h
b
Keep in mind that the knight must always move to a different-colored square
than the one it occupies. This alternation between colors is true of no other
piece. If the knight is on a light square, it must move to a dark square, and
vice versa.
The knight is much more effective when centralized — or positioned so that
it occupies or attacks one of the four central squares. However, unlike the
other pieces for which this general rule also holds true, the knight loves to be
in the center of the action and is forced to retreat only when attacked by the
lowly pawn. Otherwise, the knight just holds its ground and dares you to capture it. The knight considers charging off into battle an honor and hates to
watch while others are left to carry the day.
The knight’s truly unique power is its ability to leap over pieces, either its
own or those of the enemy. In fact, this piece is the only one that can move
off the back rank at the start of the game without a preliminary pawn move,
as illustrated in Figure 2-15.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-15: 3
A knight
hurdles a 2
pawn. 1
The knight simply jumps
over this pawn.
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Scooting Around as the
Army’s Runt: The Pawn
Although chess people sometimes refer to all the chess pieces collectively as
pieces, they don’t really consider a pawn to be a piece. If you lose a knight,
you could either say, “I lost a knight” or “I lost a piece,” but if you lose a
pawn, you don’t say, “I lost a piece.” You say, “I lost a pawn” instead. (Why?
Because that’s just the way chess people talk.) Pawns are only pawns, but
chess has a lot of them! Figure 2-16 shows how the pawns are set up at the
start of the game.
The knight’s tour
The knight’s tour is an interesting exercise
where you position the knight anywhere on the
chessboard and then move it to each square in
turn, without ever landing on the same square
twice. Grandmaster George Koltanowski was
famous for the knight’s tour and could do it
without seeing the board (calling out the name
of the square where the knight was to move). In
fact, he once did it in front of over 300 enthralled
spectators on the occasion of his 90th birthday!
35
36
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-16: 3
The pawns
line up for 2
battle. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The pawns are the foot soldiers of chess, and you know how foot soldiers are
treated. Their powers are very restricted. The pawn can move only one square
forward, except on its very first move, when it has the choice of moving one
or two squares forward. A pawn can’t move backwards or sideways — only
forward. Figure 2-17 shows the options for the white pawns at the starting line.
8
7
6
Figure 2-17:
In the
opening, the
white
pawns can
move to the
X-marked
squares.
5
4
3
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The pawn, unlike the pieces, captures differently than it moves. It captures
diagonally, one square forward to either side. But it still takes the opponent’s
place on a square when it captures, just as the other chessmen do. Figure 2-18
illustrates the pawn’s capturing ability.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
8
7
x
6
Figure 2-18:
The white
pawn can
capture an
opponent on
either of the
X-marked
squares.
x
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
In Figure 2-19a, an enemy pawn occupies one of the squares that the white
pawn can attack. Figure 2-19b shows how the white pawn captures the black
pawn (although the black pawn could’ve captured the white pawn if it were
black’s turn!).
If no member of the opposing army occupies a square that the pawn attacks,
then the pawn can move forward. If a piece or another pawn is in front of it,
but nothing is on the squares the pawn can capture, the pawn is stymied and
can’t move; chess players say the pawn is locked. In Figure 2-20, the pawns on
d5 and d6 are locked . . . by each other.
Pawns: The soul of chess
Although the pawn is the lowliest of the chess
pieces, some people have called it the “soul of
chess.” This is what the great master FrançoisAndré Danican Philidor (1726–95) meant when
he said, “The pawns are the very life of the
game.” This honor is due to a number of factors:
⻬ A chess set has more pawns than anything
else.
⻬ The pawns can dictate whether the other
pieces have maneuvering room.
⻬ No piece wants to be exchanged for a poor
pawn, so other pieces have to back down
or move around them.
⻬ Pawns can’t move backwards, so each
move is a commitment and should be made
only after due consideration.
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38
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 2-19: 4
Pawn fight:
3
White
captures 2
black.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
When two pawns are locked together as in Figure 2-20, you should try to
bring another pawn alongside in order to help out. This strategy is so
common that it’s referred to as a lever. You can see where that term came
from, as the second pawn attempts to pry the first one free. Figure 2-21
illustrates the use of the lever.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-20: 3
A pair of
pawns locks 2
horns. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
It helps me to think of the foot soldier holding a spear and a giant shield. The
shield is in front of the foot soldier so that the soldier can only thrust to the
right or left side of the shield and can’t thrust in front of it. The soldier needs
a comrade in arms to come to his aid.
Chapter 2: Greeting the Pieces and Their Powers
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 2-21:
Pawn love 3
and bravery,
known as 2
the lever. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
With the additional pawn’s aid, now two of the pawns can capture each other.
If the black pawn captures the white pawn, the remaining white pawn is free
to move. Often the lever can be used to pry open an otherwise locked position,
and this technique is seen over and over again in the games of the masters.
Because pawns can be stopped in their tracks so easily, chess players have
learned that they’re most powerful when they stay by each other’s side. This
way, both pawns — or pawn duos — can guard the square in front of the other.
By helping each other out, both pawns become more mobile, and their influence on the game grows.
You need to know a few more things about pawns, but I don’t discuss them in
this chapter. I cover pawn promotion and something called en passant (or “in
passing”) in Chapter 10, which deals with special moves. The pawn’s placement is collectively referred to as the pawn structure, and I examine this concept in detail in Chapter 3. I also devote a whole chapter to pawn structures
that are associated with particular openings — see Chapter 9 for information
on pawn formations.
39
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Chapter 3
Getting to Know the
Elements of Chess
In This Chapter
䊳 Understanding space
䊳 Getting the material advantage
䊳 Watching the clock during development
䊳 Keeping the king safe
䊳 Positioning the pawns
T
he elements of chess — space, material, development, king safety, and
pawn structure — are the basic building blocks of the game. By understanding the individual elements, you dramatically increase your knowledge
of chess. Of course, understanding the elements in isolation from one
another is far easier than understanding them in combination.
Unfortunately, the elements are always interacting with each other — as if they
were volatile gases. Sometimes one element is far more important than all the
others combined; other times, a dynamic balance exists between them all.
When you come to understand each element’s relationship to the others —
in any given position — you’ll have approached chess mastery.
In this chapter, I introduce you to these interacting elements, first explaining
them individually and then showing how they all interact.
Hogging the Board: Space
Space may be the final frontier to some people, but it’s an essential element in
the chess world. Chess really is a game of spatial conquest. All things being
equal, the player who controls the most space controls the game: Maneuvering
your pieces around is easier when you have space than when you don’t. When
42
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
you don’t have space, you can’t always get your pieces to the right place at the
right time. Imagine trying to get from one side of the battlefield to the other
when your own soldiers keep getting in your way.
The battle for space is fiercest in the center of the board. Controlling the
squares e4, e5, d4, and d5, as well as the squares adjacent to them, is like
seizing the high ground in a skirmish.
Don’t get cramped
If you’re losing the space war, chess people say that your game is cramped.
(So, for example, if your opponent maneuvers so that all your remaining
pieces are stuck in a corner, you’re definitely cramped.) A move that secures
a spatial advantage for you by restricting your opponent’s space is a cramping move. On the other hand, a freeing move is a move that gains back space.
Gain control
Space is little more than the number of squares you control. Control refers to
the number of squares attacked — not necessarily occupied — by your pieces
and pawns. (Attacked squares are those squares that your pieces or pawns
can go to on your next move.) If your opponent attacks the same squares,
then these squares are contested and aren’t clearly controlled — and no one
gets to claim them as space.
Even if a square is contested, you can use a kind of chess arithmetic to determine which side is more likely to end up controlling it. You can count the
number of your pieces attacking the square and then count the number of
your opponent’s pieces defending it. The side with the highest number is the
side most likely to seize control.
Employ space strategies
Each side starts the game with the same amount of space. At this point neither
side controls any squares on the opponent’s half of the board (of course!).
Because white has the benefit of the first move, white almost always secures
a temporary spatial advantage by putting a pawn or piece on a square that
allows it to attack and, at least temporarily, control squares on the other half
of the board. Figure 3-1 illustrates the most common opening move (1. e4; see
Chapter 17 if you need help deciphering the notation in this chapter).
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
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6
5
4
Figure 3-1:
The opening 3
move that
gets the 2
most play. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If you already know how pawns move, you can readily see that the pawn on
e4 now attacks two squares on the opponent’s side of the board. These
squares, d5 and f5, are shown in Figure 3-2. (For a refresher on how pawns
attack versus how they move, see Chapter 2.)
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x
5
Figure 3-2:
The pawn
attacks the
two squares
marked
by X.
x
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Typically, but not always, black opens with a move that evens up the space
game. This action-reaction is sometimes referred to as the dynamic equilibrium of chess, which is just a fancy way of saying that one side can usually
reestablish the initial equality on his or her turn. For example, black can
reply on the next move with the same results by moving the king’s pawn to e5
(see Figure 3-3).
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
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7
Figure 3-3:
Black
replies in
kind,
attacking
the two
squares
marked
by X.
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5
x
4
x
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Notice how white holds a spatial advantage after the first move, but black
immediately reestablishes spatial equality. Because white moves first, the
trick is to play in such a way that black can’t simply copy white’s moves. In
this way, white tries to force a concession from black and secure a lasting
advantage. If black could always copy white’s moves, the game would be a
draw. (I provide an example of how to refute the ape-man strategy, where
black continually copies white’s moves, in the opening known as Petroff’s
Defense in Chapter 12.)
Space is more important in the opening and middlegame phases of chess than
it is in the endgame. This idea is true because by definition, the endgame has
the fewest pieces on the board. Getting cramped by a handful of pieces in the
endgame rarely happens, and you have to be sort of clumsy to trip over your
own pieces.
The key to controlling space in the opening is to control the center. In Figure 3-4,
the key central squares are indicated.
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x x
x x
5
4
Figure 3-4: 3
The Xs mark
the center 2
squares.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
The laws of space
Following is a list of the laws of space, but don’t
try to memorize it. No chess master ever does.
Just become familiar with these concepts in a
general way, and soon enough, they’ll become
second nature.
⻬ Use your center pawns to gain space in the
early phase of the game.
⻬ Invade only if you can support your pieces.
⻬ Control the center before attacking on the
wings (sides of the board).
⻬ Don’t lock in your bishops behind your own
pawns.
⻬ If your opponent is cramped, try to prevent
freeing moves.
⻬ Exchange pieces to help relieve a cramped
position.
⻬ If your opponent is attacking on a wing,
strike back in the center!
⻬ After you gain control of a square in enemy
territory, try to occupy the square with a
knight.
⻬ During the endgame, consider bringing the
king to the center of the board.
The most common opening strategy in chess is to try to maneuver your minor
pieces (the bishops and the knights) and central pawns so that they control
the four center squares and strike out into enemy territory. The minor pieces
increase in power when mobilized towards the center. If you can post your
pieces there and prevent your opponent from doing the same, then you secure
greater control over the center and a spatial advantage, and your pieces
become stronger than your opponent’s. In Figure 3-5, white has moved its
pawns and knights to control the center. Black has been busy moving the
pawns on the a- and h-files and is already behind in the battle for space.
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5
4
Figure 3-5:
White is 3
winning the
battle for 2
the center. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Remember that chess isn’t a static game — it’s important to not only establish a spatial superiority but also maintain it! Having one or two pieces cross
over into enemy territory does little good if they’re cut off from the rest of
the troops. You must keep the supply lines open and invade only when you
can adequately support the advanced pieces.
Central control makes use of the old adage “divide and conquer.” If you split
your opponent’s army into two camps, you can bring a decisive amount of
force into one arena before their reinforcements arrive.
Getting the Most Bang for
Your Buck: Material
Naturally, some chess pieces are more powerful than others. The material element is concerned with this relative strength of the pieces.
Material superiority can be decisive when everything else is equal. If you can
win one pawn, you can usually win another or force further concessions from
your opponent. A material advantage of a single pawn is usually decisive in
games between masters. A material advantage equivalent to a rook is usually
enough to win, even for inexperienced players.
Value your pawns and pieces
Chess players attempt to quantify the power of the pieces by assigning them
a numerical value. The pawn is the basic unit of chess and is assigned a
numerical value of one. The other pieces are evaluated in those same terms.
Therefore, if a pawn is worth one point, a knight is worth more: three points.
In other words, you lose two points in the element of material if you trade a
knight for a pawn. You’d need to capture three enemy pawns (or one knight)
to compensate for the loss of your knight. (See the sidebar “Bishops and
knights weren’t created equal” to find out why a bishop isn’t an even trade.)
Table 3-1 shows the relative values of the pieces. Note: Assigning a value to
the king is futile, because its loss means the loss of the game!
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
Table 3-1
The Relative Values of Chess Pieces
(In Terms of the Pawn)
Piece
Value
Pawn
1
Knight
3
Bishop
3
Rook
5
Queen
9
Pieces themselves gain or lose power depending upon their positioning.
Having an advanced pawn deep in enemy territory may be far more important than having a measly knight tucked away in a corner. A bishop locked
behind its own pawns may not be worth a fraction of a free roaming knight.
These values are relative and can change many times over the course of the
game. Nevertheless, remembering the piece’s relative value when you consider trading it for another is a useful guide. If you give up your rook or queen
for a pawn, you’d better have a darned good reason!
Adopt material strategies
A good rule is to exchange pieces when you have an advantage in material.
This strategy is referred to as simplification. For example, if you have an extra
pawn, but both you and your opponent have a bishop, it’s usually easier to
win if you trade your bishop for your opponent’s and play the rest of the
game with just kings and pawns.
Bishops and knights weren’t created equal
Although the bishop and knight are considered
to be of relative equal value, chess masters
have learned over time to value the bishops
slightly more. Some people assign the bishop
a value of 31⁄4 points. Having the two bishops
control both light and dark squares is especially
important. In tandem they’re usually considerably more powerful than two knights or a knight
and a bishop.
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Material matters
The following points regarding material are
meant to serve as guidelines and not as rigid
rules. Every time chess players try to devise a
rigid rule, some smart aleck comes along and
breaks it! Nevertheless, it’s useful to at least
think about the concepts presented here.
⻬ When ahead in material, force exchanges
and steer towards the endgame. Simplify!
⻬ Open files and diagonals when possible so
that you may use them to engage the enemy
and force further concessions. (See
Chapter 1 for an introduction to files and
diagonals.)
⻬ If your opponent captures a piece, you
should almost always try to restore material
balance by capturing one of your opponent’s pieces.
⻬ If possible, win material without sacrificing
in some other element.
⻬ Material is usually more important than the
other elements, so take it if you can —
unless you have a really good reason not to.
⻬ If you’re behind in material, avoid exchanging additional pieces, but don’t become passive. You must attack!
Material superiority takes on added importance the closer you come to an
endgame. A single pawn advantage may mean little in the opening — but it
may be decisive in the endgame. This strategy illustrates how you can force
additional concessions from your opponents. If you keep offering to exchange
pieces and your opponents keep refusing, they’ll be forced to retreat. The
result? You wind up with a spatial advantage, too!
Because the side with an edge in material is the one that desires exchanges,
logically, you should avoid the swaps if you’re behind.
The intentional loss of material in return for an advantage in another element
is referred to as a sacrifice. Sacrifices are near and dear to the heart of chess
players who know that if they don’t obtain an immediate advantage, then
time will work against them. The closer you get to an endgame, the more
important the extra material becomes, so the risky maneuver of sacrificing is
considered courageous by some and foolhardy by others. You can often tell a
lot about chess players by watching how they risk or conserve their material!
Chapter 6 deals with the most common types of sacrifice in chess.
Positioning Men in Good Time:
Development
Development is the element of time. In chess, players take turns moving. You
can’t pass or give up a turn, so you must make a move at every turn. Not all
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
moves are equal, however, and only those moves that contribute to the
increased mobility of your pieces are said to be developing moves. In practice, nearly every time a piece moves from its original square, that move is a
developing one.
You want to use the element of time to place your pieces on effective squares
as efficiently as possible. Moving a piece a second or third time before
moving the others is usually a waste of time. Move it to a good square and
then move another piece to another good square. If you keep doing that,
you’ll develop appropriately.
Gain a tempo
If your opponent is playing developing moves and you’re just marking time,
you’ll soon lose the game. Every move is a precious resource, so don’t waste
any! Chess players call a move a tempo. For example, one often hears, “I just
gained (or lost) a tempo.” This means that you’ve gotten (or allowed your opponent to get) the chance to move what seems like twice in a row! Figures 3-6
and 3-7 show white losing time by moving one piece too often.
Figure 3-6a reflects a standard opening position known as Petroff’s Defense
after the white and black pawn moves to e4 and e5 and the white and black
knight moves to f3 and f6 (1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nf6). Figure 3-6b shows white
making a mistake by moving the knight a second time, to g5.
Figure 3-6:
A standard
opening,
followed
by white’s
bad move.
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3
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2
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1
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c
d
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f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
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b
Black exploits this mistake by moving the h-pawn to h6 (3. ...h6), as Figure 3-7a
shows. To avoid being captured by the h6 pawn, the white knight moves back
to f3, as in Figure 3-7b. Now it’s black’s turn to play again. By comparing
Figure 3-6a with Figure 3-7b, you can see that black not only got to move the
pawn from h7 to h6 but also gets another turn — in chess speak, black has
gained a tempo. White has just wasted time and has lost a tempo.
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Figure 3-7:
Black
attacks the
knight with
a pawn, and
the knight
returns to f3.
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5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
a
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Sometimes the concept of gaining or losing a tempo is very subtle. For example, you can develop a piece to a reasonable square but, as the course of
events unfolds, discover that your piece really belongs on another square.
You may be forced to reposition the piece to where it really belongs. Such a
move can be a loss of tempo.
White begins the game and has, by definition, a slight edge in time. White can
squander this advantage easily or make use of it. The advantage that comes
with an edge in the element of time — or development — is often called the
initiative. Thus, by virtue of the first move, white is given a slight initiative at
the beginning of the game. This advantage is often compared to having the
serve in tennis, and in the hands of the grandmasters, the advantage of
having white is quite significant.
The most common error that beginners make is to lose a tempo by giving
check (for more on check, see Chapter 4). These players give check at every
opportunity, but such a course of action isn’t always wise. Sometimes the
checking piece is later forced to retreat, and a tempo is lost. If you plan on
checking the king, make certain that you have a concrete reason for doing so.
Chess players have a saying: “Monkey sees a check, monkey gives a check.”
Don’t be a monkey! Check isn’t important by itself — checkmate is!
Make a gambit (maybe)
Very often you can sacrifice a small amount of material for an advantage in
development. Many openings sacrifice a pawn for this reason, and those
openings (and the sacrifices themselves) are called gambits. A gambit is usually more effective for white than for black because white already has the initiative and can add to it at the small cost of a pawn. Gambits tried by black
usually offer fewer chances for the initiative and often wind up as a simple
loss of material. (For more on the gambit sacrifice, see Chapter 6.)
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
The center-counter: Risky development
One opening that you occasionally see in grandmaster play is the center-counter. The chief drawback
to this opening is that the black queen is developed too early and comes under attack. When the
queen is forced to retreat, white gains a tempo. Here are the usual opening moves of the centercounter. White moves out the king pawn two squares, and black makes a plausible reply to white’s
first move by advancing the pawn in front of its queen two squares (see the following two figures).
This move has the advantage of opening lines for the bishop and queen and contesting white’s control of the center. The drawback of this move will become clear in just a moment.
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a
b
c
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White captures the pawn and is temporarily ahead in material. Black now recaptures the pawn in
order to reestablish the material balance (see the following figures).
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2
2
1
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(continued)
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
(continued)
White can now develop its knight and simultaneously attack the black queen (see the next figure).
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2
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a
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The knight develops with tempo, taking up its natural position and also attacking the black queen.
Because the knight is worth three pawns and the queen worth nine, black can’t afford to ignore this
threat and must move the queen again. White has won a tempo!
The general idea is that it takes time to capture the pawn. The time one player
spends on the pawn capture will be used by the gambit player on development.
Will the lead in development be worth the material sacrifice? It depends on
whom you’re playing!
Protecting the Head Honcho: King Safety
Of all the elements, king safety can be the most dramatic. If the king is in
jeopardy, nothing else matters. It doesn’t matter how many pieces you have
in your pocket if your king is checkmated, because that’s the end of the game.
I explain checkmate in Chapter 4 — but even if you don’t know what checkmate is now, you probably realize that you need to protect your king.
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
History has taught that by making a few early defensive moves to secure the
king’s position, you can go about your prime objective: attacking the opponent unhindered. You can’t put a price on peace of mind.
Many chess games begin with one or two pawn moves and the development
of two or three of the minor pieces. The next step is usually to bring the king
to safety by castling, a move that allows you to place your king closer to one
of the corners (see Chapter 10 for this special move), which is usually farther
from the action and behind other pawns and pieces.
This early castling and king safety strategy is evident in countless openings
that are otherwise completely different. The main idea is to engage the enemy
only after the king is secure. Protecting the king with all your pieces is inefficient, so good chess players usually leave the guard duty to one or two of
them and to the pawns. The knight is an excellent defender of the king and
puts up fierce resistance in the face of an attack. With the help of a few
pawns, the knight can usually hold down the fort.
The quickest checkmate
If you’re wondering how important the element of king safety is in chess, studying the quickest possible checkmate may help. With the first move, white advances the pawn in front of its kingside
knight two squares. Black takes the opportunity to strike back in the center and to open lines for
its bishop and queen (see the following two figures). Remember, the best strategy for countering
an advance on the wing is to advance in the center.
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4
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2
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1
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a
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c
d
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g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
(continued)
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
(continued)
Now white really makes a huge mistake by advancing its king’s bishop pawn to attack black’s pawn,
which opens a line against white’s king. Does black have a piece that can make use of it? Indeed,
black does, and white’s disregard for king safety is quickly punished. Checkmate in two moves!
The black queen attacks the white king along the diagonal, and white has no defense. (See the following two figures.) The king can’t move out of check, no defender can move in the way, and no
piece or pawn can capture the black queen. This is an extreme example of the price you pay for
ignoring the safety of your king, but believe me, you’ll encounter others!
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a
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c
d
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h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Be careful about opening up lines of attack for your opponent against your
king or moving the pawns away from your castled king, who’s now in a corner
of the board. Check isn’t checkmate, but it does force your hand because you
can’t ignore it.
Although you can find master games where the king is left in the center, this
strategy is the exception. Until you get a great deal of experience in chess,
you’re better off following the tried-and-true method of protecting your king
before launching an attack.
Working Your Pawn Structure
A pawn is considered the soul of chess because, very often, the mobility of the
pieces depends upon the positioning of the pawns (you can read about some
specific pawn formations in Chapter 9). Also, as the endgame approaches, the
pawns tend to become more valuable. The famous Australian chess player
Cecil Purdy (1906–79) once wrote, “Pawn endings are to chess what putting is
to golf.” I couldn’t have said it better myself.
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
A general rule is that mobility is the key to the power of any chess piece. This
rule is true even of the lowly pawn. The pawn’s mobility is clearly tied to its
ability to advance, because it can’t retreat. The best pawn structure, or the relationship of the pawns to one another, appears at the start of the game (see
Figure 3-8). All the pawns are mobile and their structure is unbroken. Unfortunately, in order to get the pieces out, the pawn structure must be altered.
8
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6
5
Figure 3-8:
The ideal 4
pawn struc- 3
ture (the
beginning of 2
the game).
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Pawns can’t attack the square directly ahead of them, so their mobility is
often dependent upon help from another pawn. This limitation is why pawns
are stronger together, or in pawn duos, than they are alone. Figure 3-9 illustrates a pawn duo. In a pawn duo, the pawns can guard the squares in front of
each other and support one another should either of them advance. These
pawns are mobile.
8
7
6
Figure 3-9:
Pawns find
strength in
numbers,
such as in
this pawn
duo.
x x x x
5
Notice how many squares
these pawns attack!
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
In Figure 3-10, the white pawns are still mobile, but their potential to advance
is restricted by the black pawns. You usually want to control a square prior
to occupying it, but doing so is difficult in this case because the squares in
front of the pawns are contested — the white pawns and the black pawns
attack the same squares, which are marked by Xs.
8
7
6
x x x x
5
4
Figure 3-10:
The 3
attacked
squares are 2
contested. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Figure 3-11 shows a position where all the pawns are locked: Neither side can
advance, and the pawns require assistance before progress can be made.
Locked pawns lead to what chess players call closed positions, which are
characterized by slow maneuvering rather than by sharp hand-to-hand fighting. You can now see how the pawn structure dictates the further course of
action, right?
8
7
6
Figure 3-11:
Locked
pawns
require
assistance
in order to
be free.
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4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
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Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
Promote the little guys: Passed pawns
Pawns play a critical role throughout the game of chess. During the endgame,
they take on added significance because of the possibility of promotion (see
Chapter 10 for the lowdown on pawn promotion). When pawns reach the
eighth rank, you may promote them to any piece other than the king.
If pawns are locked or otherwise immobile, the chances of promoting them
are remote. However, if the pawn has a free path ahead of it — unobstructed
by other pawns — the chances of promoting it are considerably greater. Such
a pawn is called a passed pawn.
In Figure 3-12, the pawn on the far left for white is a passed pawn. No black
pawn is between it and the eighth rank — and no black pawn can capture it.
8
7
6
5
Figure 3-12:
Nothing can
stop the a4
pawn from
being
promoted.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Passed pawns must be pushed! In other words, you must advance them
toward the eighth rank. A passed pawn becomes a tangible advantage whenever it’s free to advance and is adequately supported. A passed pawn may
force the opposing forces to assume a defensive posture in order to halt their
advance, or it may deflect enemy pieces away from the real action.
The best kind of passed pawn is the protected one (see Figure 3-13). Such a
pawn has not only an unobstructed path to the eighth rank but also the support of one of its peers. In this case, the black king can’t capture the white
pawns. If it ever moved to capture the d-pawn, the e-pawn would move to the
eighth rank and promote.
The protected passed pawn can be opposed only by pieces, which often keeps
them from doing more productive work. If one of your pawns is tying down an
enemy piece, it’s reducing that piece’s mobility and therefore its power.
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6
Figure 3-13:
The
protected
passed
pawn on e5
has a clear
path ahead.
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4
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1
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b
c
d
e
f
g
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Mobility is key: Isolated pawns
Pawns are considered isolated when they don’t have any pawns from their
own team by their side. In Figure 3-14, the white pawn on d4 is isolated.
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6
Figure 3-14:
White has
an isolated
pawn
whose fate
isn’t yet
decided.
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4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Isolated pawns may or may not be passed pawns. If they’re passed or mobile,
they may become strong. If they aren’t passed or are immobile, they may
become weak. Because isolated pawns don’t have any supporting pawns and
can’t control the square directly in front of them, they may easily become
blocked (blockaded).
Aaron Nimzowitsch, who wrote extensively on the subject of pawns, demonstrated that a mobile, isolated pawn may provide a sound basis for attack
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
and that on the other hand, an immobile (blockaded), isolated pawn may
become subject to attack. The pieces must then defend the threatened pawn,
and pieces don’t like to be on guard duty for pawns — that duty offends their
lofty sense of self.
To immobilize your opponent’s isolated pawn, you can blockade it. The
knight is an ideal blockader. A knight camped in front of an isolated pawn
can’t be driven off by pawns, and the knight stands its ground in the face of
attack by any other piece. The queen, in comparison, is a poor blockader,
because she must retreat in the face of attack by knights, bishops, or rooks
and can’t maintain the blockade. After a blockade is broken, the isolated
pawn becomes mobile and gains strength.
Left behind on open files:
Backwards pawns
The kissing cousin to the isolated pawn is the backwards pawn. A backwards
pawn still has one or more pawns on adjacent files, but those pawns are more
advanced. It may be difficult or even impossible for the backwards pawn to
catch up with its sidekick(s), and in that case such a pawn is pretty much isolated. The backwards pawn (the pawn on d2 in Figure 3-15) may come under
pressure from the enemy’s big guns because the file is open for the opponent’s queen and rooks to attack it.
You should avoid having a backwards pawn in most cases, because you may
end up using your pieces to guard the relatively insignificant pawn. The
pieces then become listless and bored — and of no use to anybody.
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5
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Figure 3-15:
The 3
backwards
pawn on d2 2
is at risk. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
On the verge of backwards:
Hanging pawns
Hanging pawns are the second cousins once removed of the backwards pawn.
The hanging pawns are in a pawn duo, which is strong in and of itself, but
they don’t have any other supporting pawns around them. This lack of support means that should one of those two pawns advance, the remaining pawn
will become a backwards pawn. If you advance one, try to advance the other
to reestablish the pawn duo. In Figure 3-16, the advanced white pawns on c4
and d4 are hanging pawns.
8
7
6
Figure 3-16:
The pawns
on the
c- and dfiles risk
becoming
backwards
pawns.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
In front of a pawn sibling: Doubled pawns
Doubled pawns are produced when one pawn captures something and moves
in front of another pawn of the same color. Figure 3-17 gives an example of
doubled pawns. The black pawns in the upper-left corner of the board are
now crowded together. When the pawn on d7 moved to capture a piece on c6,
it created doubled pawns. Although four pawns occupy this corner, they
really have the mobility of three.
When such a situation happens, the pawns lose the ability to protect one
another and reduce the chances of using each other as a lever (the act of dislodging an enemy pawn from blockading your own; see Chapter 2). Most
importantly, the pawns’ mobility — especially that of the trailing pawn — is
significantly reduced. If three pawns of the same color are on the same file,
they’re called tripled pawns, and protecting them all is very difficult.
Chapter 3: Getting to Know the Elements of Chess
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 3-17:
The pawns 3
on c6 and c7
are doubled 2
pawns.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If you have the misfortune of finding yourself saddled with pawns that are
doubled (or tripled) and also isolated, you’ll have a very hard time straightening them out. The only remedy is to use one of the pawns in a capture.
Because a pawn captures diagonally, it would move to an adjacent file.
Prevention is the best cure, so try not to allow your opponents to capture
your pieces when you can only recapture by doubling your pawns.
Lines in the sand: Pawn chains
Pawn chains are pawns that are lined up along a diagonal, with each pawn
supporting a more advanced one until they reach the head of the chain.
These pawn chains represent a line drawn in the sand and make it difficult for
the enemy to cross over. Figure 3-18 shows two pawn chains, one for white
and one for black.
8
7
6
Figure 3-18:
Both white
and black
have
established
a pawn
chain.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Pawn tips for the road
You don’t need to memorize the following pawn
tips. Give them a good once-over and move on.
But if you remember any of them, you’ll be
ahead of the game!
⻬ Push your passed pawns towards the
eighth rank and promote them if you can.
⻬ Try to keep your pawn structure intact.
⻬ Attack backwards pawns with the heavy
pieces (the queen and rooks) to force your
opponent to defend them.
⻬ Because some pawns must be advanced,
try to keep them mobile or in pawn duos
because immobile pawns are easy to attack.
⻬ Try to provoke a hanging pawn into an
advance and then blockade the hanging
pawn to immobilize it.
⻬ If some pawns become locked, use other
pawns to pry them free.
⻬ Avoid doubling your pawns, but if you can’t,
try to exchange one of the doubled pawns
to repair your pawn structure.
⻬ If you have an isolated pawn, keep it mobile
to keep it strong; if your opponent has one,
blockade it!
⻬ Attack pawn chains at the base, where
they’re weakest.
⻬ Create a passed pawn and, when possible,
a protected passed pawn.
Because other pieces have a difficult time crossing the pawn chain and coming
into contact with each other, this arrangement can make for a long game with
few exchanges — so your decision whether to create a chain depends on
whether you like such games. A pawn chain also divides the board into two
camps: one where the white pieces have more freedom to move about, and
another where the black pieces can roam more freely. If you can crash through
a pawn chain, however, you almost certainly can have the advantage.
The weakest link of the pawn chain is at the base, which is the pawn that
starts the chain. From white’s point of view, this pawn is the one that’s closest to or on the second rank. If you destroy the base, then you’ve weakened
the pawn chain. After you remove one base, another base is established, but
each becomes easier to attack and destroy. If you can’t attack the base of the
chain, attack at the head. This strategy isn’t as effective, but it may create
weaknesses in the chain that you can exploit later.
Chapter 4
Looking Out for the King: Check,
Stalemate, and Checkmate
In This Chapter
䊳 Getting the king’s attention: Check
䊳 When no one can win: Stalemate
䊳 Winning the game: Checkmate
I
n case you’re wondering, the object of the game is to checkmate your
opponent’s king. It isn’t enough to simply attack the king — you have to
attack him in such a way that he can’t escape. If you achieve that result, my
friend, you’ve won the game — time for a victory lap (but in private, of
course — no need to be rude)!
Because not all games are the cut-and-dried win/lose sort, you need to be
aware of a couple of other situations that pertain to the end result. In this
chapter, I distinguish the differences between check, checkmate, and stalemate. Keep in mind that you always want to deliver checkmate if at all possible. Unfortunately, your opponent will be trying to checkmate you at the
same time! Sometimes you have such an overwhelming advantage that your
opponent’s resistance is futile. This chapter shows you how to put your
enemy away despite his or her best efforts.
Check ’Em Out: Attacking
the Enemy King
To give check simply means that you’re attacking the enemy king. In Figure
4-1, white has a king and queen to black’s lone king. The black king is currently in check because the white queen has moved to the g-file (1. Qg6+) and
is now attacking it. (See Chapter 17 for the scoop on deciphering chess notation, which I include throughout this chapter.)
64
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
8
7
6
Figure 4-1:
The white
queen
moves to a
position to
attack the
black king.
Check!
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Because check is an attack on the king, the victim can’t ignore it. If your
opponent puts your king in check, you have three ways to respond:
⻬ Capture the attacking piece.
⻬ Move a piece between the checking piece and the king in order to block
the attack.
⻬ Move your king out of check.
In the example shown in Figure 4-1, the black king’s only option is to move
out of check because black doesn’t have any other pieces on the board.
One of the important things to remember when playing chess is to postpone
immediate gratification. Sometimes, giving check (especially early on) can
backfire. If your opponent escapes the check by blocking your attack, for
example, you may be forced to retreat. We have a saying in chess circles to
remind ourselves not to give pointless checks: “Monkey sees a check; monkey
gives a check.” Make certain that when you give check, it somehow helps your
cause; to give check and then be forced to retreat is simply a waste of time.
Experienced players give check only if it improves their position. For example,
if the king has to move early in the game to escape a check, he loses the ability to castle (see Chapter 10 for more on castling). If you play a check that
ruins your position, you may say, quite correctly, that your check bounced!
You may actually say “check” when you attack your opponent’s king, but
doing so isn’t mandatory, and experienced players usually don’t. If you do
say “check,” say it in a low voice so as not to disturb other players. It’s considered bad taste to pump your fist in the air and yell, “Check . . . Yesssssss!”
Under no circumstances is it correct to do a moonwalk or other dance step.
Chess players try to keep their emotions under control at all times.
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
Not all checks were created equal
The nastiest check short of checkmate is the
discovered check. This type of check occurs
when you move a piece out from between
another of your pieces and the enemy king,
and your second piece then gives check. That
is, its check is suddenly “discovered” because
the intervening piece is now gone, and the
second piece now has a line of sight — and
movement — to the opposing king. The piece
you move to reveal the check can thus move
anywhere and capture anything in its power
with immunity, because the other side must
respond to the check. If the piece you move also
gives check, the combination is called double
check, and the enemy king is forced to move,
because running like mad is the only way to
ward off both attacks.
When you can keep checking the enemy king
on every turn but can’t checkmate it, you have
perpetual check. Perpetual check results in a
draw, because checkmate is impossible (as the
king can escape any individual check) and the
king has no prospects of avoiding future, continuous checks, so neither side can win. This
type of check can be a handy strategy if you’re
losing. (Getting a draw isn’t such a bad thing if it
takes the place of a loss!)
If your opponent is sure to lose but postpones
defeat by giving a pointless check, the move is
known as a spite check. Spite checks are considered an example of bad chess manners.
Don’t check out of spite!
Stuck in a Rut: Stalemate
Stalemate occurs when one side has no legal moves left to make and that
person’s king isn’t in check. In chess you can’t pass up your turn — you
always have to move. However, if your opponent puts you in a situation
where you can’t make a move (keep in mind that it’s illegal to move your own
king into check), the game is declared drawn due to stalemate. (Just a quick
note that if one side has no legal moves and is in check, you’re in an entirely
different situation — checkmate! See the next section.)
King and queen versus king is the easiest two-piece combination for accomplishing checkmate, but in such a situation, you must be sure to guard
against delivering a stalemate. Because the queen can control so many
squares, stalemating the opposing king by accident is actually quite easy!
If, for example, it’s black’s move in Figure 4-2, then the game is a stalemate.
The black king has nowhere to go, because every square it can occupy is
under attack by the white king or queen.
65
66
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
8
7
6
5
Figure 4-2:
The white
king and
queen have
delivered a
stalemate.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
No Escape for Ye King: Checkmate
Checkmate occurs when one king is in check and can’t escape and therefore
signals the end of the game. Checkmate can occur at any time, with any
number of pieces on the board, but it’s good to become proficient at delivering checkmate with as few pieces as possible.
Check out Figure 4-3 to see an example of checkmate. The black king is initially placed in check when the white queen moves to f7 to attack him (1. Qf7).
But the black king has no legal moves:
⻬ He can’t capture the queen because the white king is guarding her.
⻬ He has no other black piece to block the check.
⻬ He can’t move out of check to a square that isn’t also under attack.
Therefore, black is checkmated, and white cries victory. Remember the old
adage, “It is better to give checkmate than to receive it!”
The checkmating process is accomplished by cutting off squares (systematically reducing the number of squares to which the king has access). When you
cut off squares, you use your own king and whatever piece or pieces you have
left to force your opponent’s king to an edge of the board, where it’s easiest to
deliver checkmate. Kings can’t check one another, so if the only pieces left are
the two kings, then the game ends in a draw (and if you have a lone king to
your opponent’s king and pawn or piece, I’m sorry to say that you’re a goner).
Just as the king can’t deliver checkmate on his own, no single piece can
deliver checkmate without the help of the king. A lone piece can’t even force
the enemy king to the edge of the board where the king is most easily checkmated. You must advance your own king into a position where it can help
drive back the enemy.
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
8
7
Figure 4-3:
By moving
to put the
king in
check, the
white queen
accomplishes
checkmate.
6
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Cutting off squares with
the king and queen
Because the queen is the most powerful piece, a checkmate with king and
queen against king is fairly easy to administer. The key to delivering checkmate with the queen is to drive the enemy king to any edge of the board and
watch out for moves that may lead to stalemate (see that section earlier in
this chapter).
Figure 4-4 sets the stage for an impending checkmate — check out the starting
positions of the black king and the white king and queen.
8
7
6
Figure 4-4:
The end of
the game is
nigh, and
white is
determined
to declare
checkmate.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
67
68
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
White cuts off squares by moving the queen left one square to f6 (1. Qf6), as
shown in Figure 4-5a. (The squares that are now cut off from the black king
are marked with Xs.) The black king has only three squares from which to
choose — c4, c5, and e4 — so he retreats to e4 (1. ...Ke4); see Figure 4-5b.
Figure 4-5:
The white
queen
cramps the
black king’s
space, and
the black
king moves.
8
8
7
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
x x x x x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
a
f
b
c
d
e
6
5
4
3
2
1
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
To support his queen, the white king advances to f7 (2. Kf7); see Figure 4-6a.
Even the mighty queen can’t deliver checkmate without the help of the king —
she’d spend all day in a never-ending game of cat and mouse. The black king
will try to stay in the center of the board for as long as possible, because he
knows that the edges of the board are danger zones. The king moves back to
d5 (2. ...Kd5), as Figure 4-6b shows.
Figure 4-6:
The white
king gets
in on the
action, and
the black
king refuses
to back
down.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
Remember, the best defense against checkmate is to stay as far away from
the edges of the board as possible.
By moving even closer to the black king (3. Qe6+), the white queen can cut off
even more squares, as shown in Figure 4-7. (The Xs in Figure 4-7 show the
squares that are cut off.) The queen is checking the black king in this figure,
but the real objective is to cut off more squares.
8
7
6
Figure 4-7:
The black
king has
only two
squares
where he
can move.
x x x x
5
4
3
2
x
x
x
1
a
b
c
d
x
x
x
x
x
e
f
g
h
By comparing the setup shown in Figure 4-7 to the earlier one in Figure 4-4, you
may see how white is shrinking the number of squares available to black’s king.
In Figure 4-4, the sides of the greater square within which black resides are a1
to a6, a6 to g6, g6 to g1, and g1 back to a1. In Figure 4-7 the square is smaller,
and the sides are a1 to a6, a6 to e6, e6 to e1, and e1 to a1. Chess players sometimes call this sequence shrinking the square. If you cut off too many squares,
however, you run the risk of giving stalemate — so be careful and make sure
that if the king isn’t in check, he has at least one square to which he can move.
As black has no other choice in this example but to move away from the
queen to one of the open squares, white can continue to cut off squares by
chasing after the black king until he’s forced to the edge of the board. By then
bringing the king to his queen’s side for support, white secures an inevitable
checkmate, as shown in Figure 4-8a.
Notice that the safest way to avoid stalemate is to force the opposing king to
the edge of the board, use your queen to keep it trapped there, and then
advance your king. Keep the queen at a safe distance from the opposing king,
let your king stroll up to lend support, and then deliver checkmate as shown
in Figure 4-8b.
69
70
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Figure 4-8:
The black
king finds
himself
backed
into a
corner
and succumbs to
checkmate.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
Checkmating with king and rook
Achieving checkmate with the king and rook follows the same general principle as that of using the king and queen; however, this method takes longer to
achieve because the rook isn’t as powerful as the queen. Although the steps
are long and tedious, they’re essential to know if you want to be able to checkmate your opponent; the figures throughout this section demonstrate how to
force the opposing king to the side of the board by using your rook and king.
The king and rook must be used in tandem in order to force the enemy king
away from the center and towards an edge of the board. You use the edge of a
board the way a cornerback uses the out-of-bounds line in football to help
defend against a wide receiver.
Step 1: Advancing the king to help cut off squares
With the rook cutting off squares, the first step of this type of checkmate is to
advance the king to help cut off more squares. With the white king at his back,
the white rook in Figure 4-9a is cutting off squares from the black king. (In this
position, the white king is supporting the rook so that black can’t capture it.)
The black king is forced to retreat, in this case to c5 (1. ...Kc5); see Figure 4-9b.
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
Figure 4-9:
The white
rook limits
black’s
choices, so
black
responds
accordingly.
8
8
7
7
6
x x x x
6
x
x
x
x
x
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
x x x x
x
x
x
x
x
5
4
3
2
1
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
The white king advances to f6 (2. Kf6) in preparation to help cut off more
squares, as shown in Figure 4-10a. The black king moves back to his original
post in the center of the board (2. ...Kd5), trying to stay as far away from the
edge as possible (see Figure 4-10b).
Figure 4-10:
The white
king
prepares to
cut off
squares,
and black
steps back
from the
edge.
8
8
7
7
6
x x x x
6
x
x
x
x
x
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
x x x x
x
x
x
x
x
5
4
3
2
1
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
71
72
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
The white king advances again, this time to f5 (3. Kf5; see Figure 4-11a), and
the black king is once again forced to retreat, again to c5 (3. ...Kc5); see Figure
4-11b. (Black could’ve moved to d4, of course, but the principle of cutting off
squares remains the same.)
8
8
7
7
6
Figure 4-11:
White
inches
toward
black,
increasing
pressure.
x x x x
6
x
x
x
x
x
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
x x x x
x
x
x
x
x
5
4
3
2
1
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
In Figure 4-12a, notice how the white king has moved to e4 (4. Ke4) and is
now cutting off squares d3, d4, and d5. An important part of this strategy is to
advance the king off to the enemy king’s side, not in front of it. The reason for
this course of action becomes clear in the next step, which I detail in the following section. The black king responds by moving to c4 (4. ...Kc4), trying to
stay as far away from the edge of the board as the white pieces allow (see
Figure 4-12b). Now, however, the white king has advanced far enough to move
onto phase two of the operation.
8
8
7
7
6
5
Figure 4-12: 4
The white
3
king gets
in on the 2
attack.
x x x x
x x
x
x
6
5
4
3
x x x x
x x
x
x
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
Step 2: Forcing the enemy king toward the edge
In this phase of the checkmating operation, the white rook and king combine forces to drive the black king closer to the edge of the board. The rook
checks the black king by moving to the c-file (5. Rc6+), as Figure 4-13a shows,
forcing black to move closer to the edge. The black king moves to b5 (5. ...Kb5),
which is closer to the edge, but in turn he attacks the undefended rook — see
Figure 4-13b.
Figure 4-13:
White
checks
black and
forces him
near the
edge, but
black
retaliates.
8
8
7
7
6
x x
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
6
x x x
x
x x
x
x
c
d
e
x x
5
x
4
x
x
x
3
2
1
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
The white king advances to d5 (6. Kd5) in order to defend the attacked rook
and continue to help cut off squares, as shown in Figure 4-14a. As a result, the
black king is forced yet again to give ground. To maintain a little space from
the edge, black moves straight down to b4 (6. ...Kb4); see Figure 4-14b.
8
8
7
7
6
Figure 4-14:
The white
king comes
to the
rescue, and
black has to
back off.
x x
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
6
x
x
x
x
x
c
x x
5
4
3
2
1
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
x
x
x
x
x
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
73
74
Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Step 3: Cutting off more squares
Now that white has accomplished the preliminary objective of forcing the black
king to retreat, white must return to the idea of cutting off squares in order to
drive the enemy king farther back. In Figure 4-15a, white advances the rook to
c5 (7. Rc5) in order to cut off more squares. In Figure 4-15b, the black king
retreats to b3 (7. ...Kb3), continuing to stay away from the edge of the board.
Figure 4-15:
White
continues to
cut off
squares,
and black
continues to
stay away
from the
edge.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
x x
4
3
2
1
a
b
5
x
x
x
x
c
x x
4
3
2
1
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
x
x
x
x
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
Next, white uses the rook once more to cut off additional squares by moving
it to c4 (8. Rc4), as shown in Figure 4-16a. The black king again retreats down
the b-file (8. ...Kb2); see Figure 4-16b. See a pattern yet? Notice how the white
rook is cutting off the black king’s access to all the squares except for the
three in the lower left corner.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
x x
Figure 4-16:
3
The pursuit
and retreat 2
continue.
1
a
b
4
x
x
x
c
x x
3
2
1
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
x
x
x
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
Step 4: Advancing the king and cutting off even more squares
Now that additional squares are cut off, white returns to the theme of advancing the king, alternating between the two themes of advancing and cutting off
squares. This step is simple: You cut off squares when you can and advance
the king when you can’t.
In Figure 4-17a, the white king advances to d4 (9. Kd4) so he can stand beside
the rook. This approach demonstrates why it takes so long to actually achieve
the checkmate. The process itself is fairly simple; the aggressor makes the
same kind of moves over and over again, but because the king is needed to
force a checkmate (and the king moves only one square at a time) and
because the rook is less powerful than the queen, it takes quite a number of
moves in order to execute the plan. In Figure 4-17b, black moves the king to
b3 (9. ...Kb3) to attack the rook. However, because the white king is protecting the rook, the attack is meaningless. Still, black has nothing better to do —
white is guiding him through a slow and painful death.
Figure 4-17:
The white
king inches
his way to
the future
crime
scene, and
black
scrambles.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
x x
3
2
1
a
b
4
x
x
x
c
x x
3
2
1
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
x
x
x
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
In Figure 4-18a, the white king continues to advance toward the lower left
corner by moving to d3 (10. Kd3). In Figure 4-18b, the black king is forced to
retreat as usual. He moves to the only other square away from the edge, b2
(10. ...Kb2).
In Figure 4-19a, white returns to the theme of using the rook to cut off squares
(11. Rc3), finally forcing the black king to the edge of the board (11. ...Kb1);
see Figure 4-19b.
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
Figure 4-18:
The saga
continues:
The white
king
advances,
and black
shies away.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
x x
3
2
1
a
b
4
x
x
x
c
x x
3
2
1
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
x
x
x
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
By advancing the rook to c2 (12. Rc2), white traps the black king on the edge
of the board (see Figure 4-20a). The process of cutting off squares is complete, and white can now take the final steps toward delivering checkmate.
All black can do is shuffle back and forth in the lower left corner (12. ...Ka1);
see Figure 4-20b.
Figure 4-19:
The rook
takes his
turn at
cutting off
squares,
backing the
black king
against the
wall.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
x x
2
1
a
b
3
x
x
c
x x
2
1
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
x
x
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 4: Looking Out for the King: Check, Stalemate, and Checkmate
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 4-20:
The white 4
rook cramps
3
the black
king’s 2
space.
4
3
x x
1
a
b
2
x
c
x x
1
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
x
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
Step 5: Delivering checkmate!
In order to deliver checkmate, white simply needs to move the king into the
proper position to relieve the rook of the task of cutting off squares along the
second rank. To head for that goal, the white king marches to c3 (13. Kc3), as
shown in Figure 4-21a. Black still has no choice but to shuffle back and forth,
so he scoots to b1 (13. ...Kb1); see Figure 4-21b.
Figure 4-21:
The white
king
approaches
his final
destination,
and black
bides his
time.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
x x
1
a
b
2
x
c
x x
1
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
x
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part I: Laying the Groundwork
White continues the march of the king in Figure 4-22a (14. Kb3), but the black
king can only move back into the corner (14. ...Ka1) and await his fate (see
Figure 4-22b).
Figure 4-22:
The white
king gets
to the
opportune
position,
and black
makes his
only move.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
x x
1
a
b
2
x
1
d
c
x x
e
f
g
a
h
b
x
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
The time has come to deliver checkmate — finally! The rook moves to c1 (15.
Rc1#), and black can’t move anywhere without being captured (see Figure 4-23).
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 4-23:
Time for a 3
victory lap:
White seals 2
checkmate. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Keep in mind that the preceding series of moves is much easier to play than
to explain. But you must practice this elementary rook-and-king checkmate
until you understand it entirely.
Part II
Gaining Chess
Know-How
I
In this part . . .
n the next several chapters, I demonstrate how to
use chess tactics and how to create combinations to
increase your winning chances. This hand-to-hand combat
is the part of a chess game that holds the most aesthetic
appeal for the most people. I cover what it means to make
a sacrifice and why doing so is sometimes necessary, even
if the idea of letting your opponent capture your piece is
counterintuitive. I also discuss the general importance of
pattern recognition and cover specific mating patterns,
which lead to checkmate, along with pawn formations.
Chapter 5
Tactics and Combinations
in Hand-to-Hand Combat
In This Chapter
䊳 Maneuvering your pieces to accomplish a short-range objective
䊳 Surprising your opponent with a carefully planned combination
L
et the mortal combat begin. When pieces engage one another, either at
close quarters or from long range, tactics rule the day. In fact, tactics —
sometimes even elementary ones — are the deciding factor for most chess
games. So becoming familiar with the most basic examples and looking for
them throughout the game is critical. You can make 40 great moves and still
lose the game by overlooking your opponent’s tricks on the 41st!
Combinations, which are based on tactics, are great techniques, too. Everything
leading up to a combination may feel like mere plot development, because
combinations are the car-chase scenes of chess. A combination can appear
like a bolt out of the blue, but despite this almost inevitable element of surprise, a combination is most often the result of careful planning.
In this chapter, I help you avoid the disastrous blunder of making lots of great
moves and losing the game by missing your opponent’s one great tactic. I
also give you the lowdown on combinations, discussing the most common
tactical devices that serve as building blocks — after you familiarize yourself
with these combination themes, you’ll be able to recognize them in play and
respond accordingly. Knowing the names of combination themes isn’t as
important as understanding how and why they work, so I answer such questions for you here.
Knowing Your Tactical Game Plan
A tactic is a move or a series of moves designed to bring about benefits in the
short term, and it usually leads to an advantage in one or more of the elements
of chess. (See Chapter 3 for a discussion of the elements of chess.) As such,
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
studying the basic types of tactics can lead to an immediate improvement in
your results. Of course, you won’t find a shortcut to chess mastery, but by
becoming a strong tactician you can pocket many a point along the way.
Don’t make a move in the hopes that your opponent won’t see your threat.
Instead, stick to the basic principles of play.
Bullying two guys at once: The fork
One of the most basic of chess tactics, the fork is a simultaneous attack on
two or more pieces by a single piece (for the sake of brevity, I call the pawn a
piece here). Either knights or pawns usually do those down and dirty forks,
although any piece can get in on the action (the knight, however, is the ideal
forking piece). During a successful fork, your opponent can’t protect all the
threatened pieces at once and, as a result, must risk the loss of one.
A variation of the Vienna game (an opening sequence of moves that became
popular after a tournament in Vienna) provides a good example of both
knight and pawn forks. Some people call this variation the FrankensteinDracula or Monster variation because the tactics are so scary. Almost every
move in this opening contains a threat, which is the essence of chess tactics.
Chess players call an opening that has many tactical possibilities sharp. This
Vienna game variation, featuring multiple forks, is one of the sharpest in all of
chess. The Vienna game begins with both sides advancing the pawns in front
of their kings two squares, as in Figure 5-1a (in chess notation, the move is
written 1. e4 e5; see Chapter 17 for all you need to know about reading the
notation that I provide throughout this chapter). On the next turn, both sides
bring out one of their knights, as in Figure 5-1b (2. Nc3 Nf6).
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 5-1: 4
The begin3
ning of the
Vienna 2
game.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
Next, white develops (brings out) the bishop (3. Bc4), as Figure 5-2a shows,
and the black knight captures the pawn on e4 (3. ...Nxe4), as shown in Figure
5-2b, with the intent of employing a pawn fork in the near future.
Figure 5-2:
White
brings out a
bishop, and
the black
knight forks
two pawns.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
If the white knight on c3 captures the black knight on e4 (4. Nxe4), as Figure
5-3a shows, then a black pawn can fork the bishop and knight by moving to
d5 (4. ...d5), as you see in Figure 5-3b. In this way, black regains the lost piece
and has a free game (meaning that the development of the rest of the pieces
will be relatively easy). White can, of course, take the offending pawn on d5
with its bishop (5. Bxd5), but the black queen would then swoop down upon
the white bishop (5. ...Qxd5). Notice how white can save either the bishop or
the knight, but not both, from capture.
Figure 5-3:
Black’s
d-pawn
forks the
white
bishop and
knight.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
Usually, white avoids the pawn fork by making a counterthreat before the
pawn fork can develop. Instead of capturing the black knight, white brings
out its queen to h5, with the immediate threat of checkmate (4. Qh5); see
Figure 5-4a.
If black doesn’t respond well, then white can capture the black pawn on f7
with the queen (5. Qxf7#) and announce the cry of victory: “Checkmate!”
(I explain check and checkmate in Chapter 4.) However, because it’s black’s
turn to move, black retreats the knight to d6 (4. ...Nd6). The knight now
guards against the threat of checkmate and simultaneously attacks (meaning
threatens) white’s bishop (Figure 5-4b).
Figure 5-4:
The white
queen
threatens
checkmate,
and the
black knight
defends
against it.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
In one of the main variations of this opening, white chooses to retreat the
bishop away from the attacking knight by moving to b3 (5. Bb3), as Figure
5-5a shows. Black now chooses to develop the other knight to c6 in order to
defend the king’s pawn on e5 (5. ...Nc6); see Figure 5-5b.
Figure 5-5:
The white
bishop
escapes the
threat, and
the black
knight
defends the
king’s pawn.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
White now takes advantage of the fact that one of black’s knights is tied down
to defend against the threatened checkmate, and white attacks the defender
by moving the knight on c3 to b5 (6. Nb5), as Figure 5-6a shows. Removing the
defender is a tactical theme that you see over and over again in chess.
Black can’t capture the cheeky knight because of the threat of checkmate.
Black also can’t ignore the threat of its knight being taken by white’s knight.
This loss would put the black king in check (meaning, black’s king is attacked)
and allow white to deliver checkmate in the next move. Instead, black moves
the pawn on g7 forward one square (6. ...g6) in order to defend the checkmate
and to attack the white queen at the same time (see Figure 5-6b).
Figure 5-6:
Black
responds
to the
renewed
threat of
checkmate.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
A move that defends and attacks simultaneously is almost always a good one!
Now white’s queen must retreat, but she heads to a square that keeps the
threat to black alive, f3 (7. Qf3); see Figure 5-7a. Defense and attack at the
same time! Black has the same problem as before — the king and the f-pawn
are feeling the pressure — and advances the f-pawn two squares (7. ...f5), as
Figure 5-7b shows). This move once again blocks the threatened checkmate,
because the queen is no longer attacking the f7 square.
Black once again threatens to simply take the advanced white knight on b5,
which is left hanging (lacking protection) — or en prise in chess terms. So
white finds still another way to renew the threat of checkmate by again
moving the queen, this time to d5 (8. Qd5); see Figure 5-8a. Black is out of
defensive pawn moves and is forced to move out its queen to defend against
the checkmate (8. ...Qe7), as Figure 5-8b shows.
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
Figure 5-7:
The white
queen again
threatens
the black
king, but a
black pawn
steps out
to fight.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
Finally — time for the knight fork! The white knight captures the black pawn
on c7 (9. Nxc7+), thereby putting the king in check and simultaneously attacking the rook in the corner (see Figure 5-9). Black must move the king out of
check and allow white to capture the rook.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 5-8:
Black 4
protects the
3
f7 square
with the 2
queen.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
The black rook and king
are victims of the knight fork.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 5-9:
The knight 3
forks the
king and 2
rook. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Going after the bodyguard: The pin
The pin is the most frequently used chess tactic. If patent lawyers were
around before chess came about, somebody would’ve become a millionaire
many times over by patenting this maneuver.
To achieve the pin, the pinning piece attacks one of two enemy pieces lined
up along a rank, file, or diagonal (see Chapter 1 for information on ranks,
files, and diagonals). The pinned piece is the one between the attacker and
the remaining piece. Usually, the pinned piece is of lesser value than the
other — so that if it were to move, the more important piece would be subject to capture.
Only queens, rooks, and bishops can pin an enemy piece, because they’re the
pieces that can attack multiple squares along a rank, file, or diagonal. Of the
three, the bishop is most commonly used to establish a pin because it’s more
likely to find pieces of greater value than itself to attack.
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
Pinned pieces can move (although you may not want them to!) except when
they’re pinned to the king. Exposing the king to capture is illegal, so pinned
pieces in cases involving the king are really nailed down.
In Figure 5-10a, the black knight on c6 is attacked by the white bishop on b5
but isn’t pinned. In Figure 5-10b, however, when black moves its d7 pawn to
d6, the white bishop pins the knight to the king, so the knight can’t move.
Figure 5-10:
The black
knight
becomes
pinned
when the
d-pawn
moves.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
You can break a pin in four ways:
⻬ Capture the pinning piece. You aren’t really in much of a pin if you can
take the pinning piece away, so capturing the pinning piece isn’t often
an option.
⻬ Attack the pinning piece and force it to capture or retreat. This attack
is called putting the question to the pinning piece.
⻬ Place a less valuable piece or pawn in the path between the pinned
piece and the more valuable one. This move is called interposing.
⻬ Remove the more valuable piece from the pinning path. This strategy
is appropriately called running away.
One very powerful type of pin can occur whenever the queen and king are
lined up on a rank, file, or diagonal. When this positioning occurs, a bishop or
rook may be able to pin the queen to the king. Be careful whenever your king
and queen are on a line together, and be alert for the chance to pin when
your opponent’s are.
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
The Nimzo-Indian
One of the chess openings popularized by Aaron Nimzowitsch still bears a portion of his name.
(And just to confuse you, his name is spelled in various ways; you may also see it as Aron
Nimzowitsch or Aaron Nimzovich.) The Nimzo-Indian belongs to a class of openings that are
referred to as Indian Defenses (see Chapter 12). These openings are usually characterized by the
development of a bishop on the flank, called fianchetto.
In the Nimzo-Indian, the player often fianchettoes the queen’s bishop. The player uses the king’s
bishop to establish an early pin. Here are the opening moves of the Nimzo-Indian: 1. d4 Nf6, 2. c4
e6, 3. Nc3 Bb4 (see the following figures).
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
8
7
6
5
4
The white knight is pinned
by the black bishop.
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
(continued)
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
(continued)
Black establishes a pin on the third move. The knight on c3 is pinned to the white king and can’t
move. Chess masters have tried all sorts of strategies in this position, but it has proven to be one
of the most effective defenses in all of chess. Black is ready to castle and can then safely counterattack white’s setup. (If you don’t understand castling, see Chapter 10 for an explanation of this
special move.) The pin proves to be more than just a minor annoyance for white. Sometimes the pin
is mightier than the sword!
Forcing your opponent to move it
or lose it: The skewer
The pin’s cousin is the skewer, because it also exploits the positioning of two
enemy pieces along a rank, file, or diagonal. The skewer is an attack on a
piece that must move or be lost. In this case, the more valuable piece is
attacked first. After the threatened piece moves, it exposes a second piece to
capture. The bishop is the ideal skewer, and the king and queen are its frequent targets.
Can you find an opportunity for the skewer in Figure 5-11? It’s white’s move.
(With a black queen to a white bishop, black has an overwhelming material
advantage, but white can even the score by making use of the skewer.)
8
7
6
5
Figure 5-11:
The black
king and
queen are
on the same
diagonal.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The next figure shows the skewer in action. In Figure 5-12a, white moves the
bishop to b3 (1. Bb3+) in order to put the black king in check. Figure 5-12b
shows that the black king was forced to move out of check (1. ...Kg7). And
now the white bishop can simply capture the black queen!
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
Figure 5-12:
The white
bishop
skewers the
black king
and queen,
and the king
must move.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
The skewer can also take place in another way, when the attacking piece is
between the two defenders. This type of skewer is illustrated in Figure 5-13.
In this case, the bishop attacks the two enemy pieces on either end of the
diagonal. Think of a shish kebab — if black decides to move its king, then the
white bishop takes the queen. If black decides to take the white bishop with
its queen, black loses its queen to the white king. In any case, black has let a
chance to win slip away and now must accept a draw — no one can win!
8
7
6
The white bishop threatens both
the black king and the black queen.
5
Figure 5-13:
The white
bishop
skewers the
black king
and queen.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
In practice, the skewer doesn’t occur as often as the fork or pin, but the move
is so powerful that when it does occur, it usually decides the game. So be alert
for the possibility of a skewer at any time, especially when the king and queen
are exposed along a rank, file, or diagonal.
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
Stealing the show: Discovered
and double attacks
A discovered attack is the movement of a piece or pawn resulting in an attack
by a piece that you didn’t move. When you move a piece and expose an
attack by a second stationary piece, the moving piece is free to create some
mischief of its own.
If the moving piece also attacks a piece of value, the situation is called a
double attack. The victim of a double attack can usually defend against one
threat or the other, but not both.
A famous discovered attack occurred in the game Legall–St Brie Paris, 1750.
The term Legall’s mate refers to the type of mating pattern seen in that game,
which I depict in the following figures.
In Figure 5-14, the black bishop on g4 is pinning the white knight on f3 to the
queen — the knight can’t move without subjecting the queen to capture.
However, if the knight move results in a forced checkmate, who cares about
the queen?
8
7
6
Figure 5-14:
The knight
on f3 is
pinned to
its queen by
the black
bishop
on g4.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Figure 5-15a shows that the white knight captures the black pawn on e5
(1. Nxe5). Now, the bishop on c4 and the knight on e5 are both attacking the
black pawn on f7. The smart thing for black to do is capture the knight.
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
However, the knight move has also exposed an attack on the black bishop by
the white queen. If black captures the knight (1. ...dxe5), then white captures
the bishop (2. Qxg4) and pockets the captured e-pawn. In the actual game,
Legall’s opponent couldn’t resist capturing white’s queen with the bishop
(1. ...Bxd1), as shown in Figure 5-15b, and was checkmated quickly.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
Figure 5-15:
A double 2
attack on f7.
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
Legall brought home the bacon by capturing the black pawn on f7 with his
white bishop (2. Bxf7+); see Figure 5-16a. The black king is now in check, and
his only escape is to move to e7 (2. ...Ke7), which he does in Figure 5-16b.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
Figure 5-16:
3
Black’s king
is forced 2
to move.
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
In Figure 5-17, the white knight on c3 moves to d5 (3. Nd5#), checking the
king and cutting off its escape square on f6. The result is checkmate!
8
7
6
5
Figure 5-17:
By moving
to d5, the
white knight
secures
checkmate.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
When you find yourself surprised by a double attack — and you will be
surprised — the best course of action is to reduce your losses. In the Legall–
St Brie Paris game, black found himself in checkmate, but he could’ve kept
his loss to a single pawn. Always choose the lesser of two evils.
Dealing out the discovered
and double check
The term discovered check refers to the movement of a piece or pawn that
produces a check by a different, unmoved piece. A double check occurs when
the moving piece also checks the king.
The game Réti-Tartakower Vienna, 1910, is perhaps the most famous example
of a double check. I should point out that it wasn’t a regular tournament
game but a rather quick one, or what chess players refer to as a blitz game.
The finish is amazing nevertheless. At one point in the game, the board
looked like the one in Figure 5-18.
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
8
7
6
Figure 5-18:
The board at
one point in
the RétiTartakower
Vienna,
1910 game.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
From this starting point, white delivers checkmate in three moves. The first
move is a queen sacrifice (1. Qd8+), as shown in Figure 5-19a, which must’ve
come as a rude shock to Saviely Tartakower. Because check can’t be ignored,
black must capture the queen (1. ...Kxd8), as Figure 5-19b shows.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
Figure 5-19:
3
White
sacrifices 2
its queen.
3
2
1
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a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
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b
f
g
h
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The bishop then moves from d2 to g5 (2. Bg5++) and checks the black king
(see Figure 5-20). This move also discovers a check from the rook on d1, creating a double check that seals black’s fate. White will deliver checkmate on
d8 no matter what black does. If black’s king moves to c7 (2. ...Kc7), then the
bishop moves to d8 (3. Bd8#). If, on the other hand, the black king moves to
e8 (2. ...Ke8), then the rook moves to d8 (3. Rd8#). In either case, the result is
checkmate. This type of checkmate is now known as Réti’s mate.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 5-20: 2
Réti’s mate. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
One of the important aspects of the double-check tactic is that the king must
move — you have no other way to escape a double check. If the king has
nowhere to go, checkmate! Discovered and double checks are very powerful
tactics. As with most tactics, it’s better to give than receive. Be alert for your
chances to use them, and be especially alert to your opponent’s chances.
Combining Moves to Speed Your Progress
If you combine tactical threats when you initiate a sequence of moves with a
specific goal in mind, you’re making a combination. By combining threats, you
force your opponent to choose among bad moves. Combinations often involve
a sacrifice (see Chapter 6), but the idea is to derive some tangible benefit after
the forced sequence is complete. This benefit can be anything from a small
improvement in position to checkmate. Although any phase of a chess game
can have a combination, the technique is most frequently found in the middlegame (see Chapter 13).
Combinations consist of tactics, including mating patterns (see Chapter 7 for
more on mating patterns), so you can’t spot one unless you can see the underlying tactics that make it work (and the only way you’ll notice them in a game
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
is to get really familiar with them, so read the preceding section and Chapter 7
over and over until you have them down pat). Certain themes of combinations
are documented in chess literature; these themes may occur in your own
games, but they may go unnoticed unless you’re trained to look for them (and
if you’re not, you may sit there scratching your head when you lose).
Combinations happen to you when you assume something to be true that
isn’t. A rook may seem to be guarding a pawn, but it really isn’t if it also has
to guard a queen. A piece may seem to be safe, but it really isn’t if your opponent can deflect it to a more dangerous square. Things aren’t always the way
they seem in chess, and combinations reveal deeper truths.
All the moves in a type of combination won’t be the same every time. Your
opponent is going to make a choice — called a variation — about how to
react to your combination moves. (That’s fine, as long as your opponent’s
countermoves don’t work!) If your combination produces your desired result,
it’s considered sound, but if one of your opponent’s responses makes your
combination go awry, then the combination is considered unsound.
Combinations are really the only way for a weaker player to defeat a stronger
one. This triumph can happen when the stronger player is lulled to sleep and
is expecting a certain sequence of moves, only to be surprised when a combination initiates a different sequence than he or she expected. So if you’re the
underdog, use the combinative themes in this section to pull the rug out from
under the enemy.
Sacrificing a piece to clear a path
You’ll undoubtedly face times when you want to play a certain move but can’t
because one of your own pieces is in the way; this scenario frequently happens when you want to employ a combination. The solution may be to sacrifice that piece, called making a clearance sacrifice (because you’re clearing a
path for another piece; see Chapter 6 for more on sacrifices) — you do this in
order to set up any of the basic tactics or mating patterns. Some players
don’t even consider making such sacrifices, because surrendering their own
material is counterintuitive. But you need to remember the importance of
surprise in the game of chess. If you’re willing to consider and be on the lookout for clearance sacrifices when your opponent isn’t, you stand a good
chance of catching him or her off-guard and gaining a significant advantage
(or even victory).
One example of a clearance sacrifice combination is Damiano’s mate (see
Chapter 7 for more on Damiano’s mate including a queen and a pawn). In that
case, white sacrificed both rooks to get them out of the way so that the queen
could deliver checkmate. Figure 5-21 shows the starting position for a different clearance sacrifice combination that occurred in the Karpov-Chom game
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in 1977. The key to this combination is spotting the mating pattern (see
Chapter 7) of the rook and queen. If the white queen could move to the
square g7, she’d put the black king in checkmate — but how can she get
there?
8
7
Figure 5-21:
The starting
position
for the
clearance
sacrifice in
the KarpovChom, 1977
game.
6
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Karpov (white) wanted to play his queen, on c7, to h2 in order to check the
black king and eventually put black in checkmate (by ultimately getting his
queen to g7). However, his knight on g3 was in the queen’s way. His solution
was to move the knight to f5 (1. Nf5), as illustrated in Figure 5-22, in order to
clear the way for the queen, even though black’s e-pawn could then capture
the knight.
8
7
6
Figure 5-22:
White
clears a
path for the
queen by
sacrificing
the knight.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
The black pawn on e6 can capture the knight (1. ...exf5), as indicated in Figure
5-23a. When the white queen moves down the diagonal to h2 (2. Qh2+), however, she attacks the black king along the h-file, as shown in Figure 5-23b.
Figure 5-23:
A black
pawn
captures the
knight, and
the white
queen
delivers
check.
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7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
The king can escape the check by moving to g8 (2. ...Kg8), as Figure 5-24a
shows, but the queen isn’t through yet. Figure 5-24b shows her next attack,
a simple move to g3 (3. Qg3+) to reinstate check.
Figure 5-24:
The black
king tries to
escape
check, but
the white
queen is in
hot pursuit.
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7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Black can again escape the check by moving back to h8 (3. ...Kh8), as shown
in Figure 5-25a, but checkmate is unavoidable. The queen simply moves
straight ahead to g7 (4. Qg7#) and announces checkmate with a cry of victory
(see Figure 5-25b).
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Figure 5-25:
The black
king has
nowhere to
hide, and
the white
queen gets
her soughtafter victory.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Going back to black’s potential capture of the white knight with a pawn, as
the situation stands in Figure 5-22, black didn’t necessarily have to capture
the knight. Instead, he could’ve enforced a different variation of white’s combination with a different move. All the possible variations, however, would’ve
ended in black being checkmated. Black could instill a new threat by performing a clearance sacrifice with the rook, moving it to h7, and the black knight
on f8 would be forced to capture the rook because black can’t ignore check
(2. Rh7+ Nxh7). The queen would then move to g7 and deliver checkmate
(3. Qg7#). Because no black move can prevent both the threat of the two
clearance sacrifices, and therefore all the variations lead to victory for white,
Karpov’s clearance sacrifice combination is considered sound.
Luring your opponent with a decoy
A decoy is used to entice your opponent’s piece onto a square or line (meaning a file, rank, or diagonal) with fatal consequences. The decoy piece sacrifices itself for the greater good; the enticed piece may win a victory by capturing the decoy but will be doomed in the end. Decoy opportunities can happen
at any time, but like most combinations, they most frequently occur in the
middlegame. The objective is usually to win material, but if the combination
results in checkmate, all the better!
The position in Figure 5-26 is set up for white to use a decoy to win material
(see Chapter 3 for more on material). Although the material is even, the black
king and queen are on the same rank, which often spells trouble. Whenever
the king and queen are lined up on the same rank, file, or diagonal, look for a
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
tactic, such as a pin or skewer, to exploit the position. If a straightforward
tactic isn’t available, a combination, where you generally sacrifice a piece to
allow for a tactic, may be.
8
7
Figure 5-26:
Having the
king and
queen on
the same
rank,
as black
does, spells
t-r-o-u-b-l-e.
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5
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
White exploits the positioning of black’s king and queen by moving the rook
to e8 to use it as a decoy (1. Re8+), in efforts to lure the queen from her perch
to her impending doom, as shown in Figure 5-27a. Black has no real choice
but to accept the decoy and capture the rook with the queen (1. ...Qxe8), as
demonstrated in Figure 5-27b — if the king moves out of check, the white
rook will simply capture the queen.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 5-27:
The white 4
rook forces
3
the black
queen to 2
capture him.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Black is now set up for a fork (see the fork tactic discussion earlier in this
chapter), where the white knight moves to a position where he threatens
both black’s king and queen, c7 (2. Nc7+); see Figure 5-28. The knight will capture the black queen on white’s next turn, because black must respond to the
check by moving the king.
8
7
6
5
Figure 5-28:
The white 4
knight
moves to 3
fork the
black king 2
and queen.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Deflecting your opponent’s
piece off a key square
The combination involving a deflection is similar to the decoy. Instead of
luring your opponent’s piece to a place where it meets its end, however, a
deflection sacrifice causes an opponent’s piece to abandon a key square, rank,
file, or diagonal. You’re then free to use this key square, rank, file, or diagonal
to your advantage.
At first glance, the position in Figure 5-29a appears to be a certain draw
(where neither side is capable of winning). Material is even, and no back rank
mate possibilities exist (see Chapter 3 for a list of piece values and Chapter 7
for more on the back rank mate). However, the black rook is defending the
black queen, and if white can entice the rook to move off of the d-file, then
black will lose its queen.
The white rook can deflect the black rook from the defense of the queen by
moving to e8 and putting the black king in check (1. Re8+); see Figure 5-29b.
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
Figure 5-29:
The white
rook
sacrifices
itself in
order to
deflect the
black rook
from a key
square.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
If black’s rook captures white’s (1. ...Rxe8), as shown in Figure 5-30a, then the
black queen is left undefended. White can then capture her with its own queen
(2. Qxd2), as shown in Figure 5-30b, leaving white with a clear material gain.
Figure 5-30:
Black
captures the
white rook,
and white
scores
the black
queen.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Black can choose not to take the offered rook, but that variation is also bad. If
the black king simply moves out of check (1. ...Kh7), as in Figure 5-31a, then
the white rook captures black’s rook (2. Rxe8), as in Figure 5-31b. The white
rook and queen then protect one another, even though the black queen is
between them — the black queen can’t capture either piece without being
captured in return. Because both variations are bad for black, the decoy combination is sound for white.
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Figure 5-31:
If black
doesn’t
capture the
white rook,
his queen
still suffers.
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3
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2
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a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Destroying the guard
Sometimes a single piece is guarding against disaster, and eliminating that
piece may trigger a chess apocalypse. If you’re the opponent, it may well be
worth a significant material sacrifice in order to eliminate the key defender,
or as chess players say, destroy the guard.
In Figure 5-32, the black rook on d8 is guarding against a back rank mate (see
Chapter 7 for more on the back rank mate). The rook is all that stands
between black and disaster. The white queen on g5 is attacking the black
rook, which the black knight on c6 is defending. However, because the knight
moves in an “L” shape, it can’t guard the back rank if it takes the rook’s place.
8
Figure 5-32:
The black
rook, which
stands
guard
against a
back rank
mate, feels
the white
queen’s
fury.
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a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
In Figure 5-33a, the white queen sacrifices herself by moving to d8 (1. Qxd8)
in order to destroy the guard (the rook). The black knight then replaces the
rook by capturing the queen (1. ...Nxd8), as shown in Figure 5-33b, but is
unable to perform the rook’s guard duty.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 5-33: 4
The knight
3
can’t defend
the back 2
rank.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Even though white lost a queen for a rook, the chance to deliver a back rank
checkmate by moving the white rook to e8 (2. Re8+), as shown in Figure 5-34,
makes the sacrifice in material worthwhile.
8
7
6
Figure 5-34:
Checkmate!
The white
rook
delivers
the back
rank mate.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
When your opponent has a piece performing a critical function — as black’s
rook was — look for a way to eliminate it. Don’t be afraid to consider any possibility, even the loss of your queen.
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Overloading one piece to make
another piece vulnerable
Sometimes a piece or pawn has too much on its hands to do everything
asked of it and must choose which responsibility to fulfill. In this case, the
piece is said to be overloaded.
When your opponent’s piece is overloaded, it’s just asking for trouble — and
for you to put a combination into action to exploit that piece. If one piece has
two critical tasks to perform (defending two different pieces, perhaps), you
may be able to cause it to choose one at the expense of the other.
In Figure 5-35, the black rook on d7 is overloaded: It’s charged with defending
the black queen on d6 (which is under attack from the white queen on a3) and
the black pawn on f7 (which is under attack by the white bishop and rook).
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 5-35: 3
The black
rook on d7 is 2
overloaded. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If white captures the black queen with its own queen (1. Qxd6), as shown in
Figure 5-36a, then the rook is forced to abandon its defense of the pawn on f7.
The rook must capture the white queen (1. ...Rxd6), as in Figure 5-36b, to
restore material balance.
Chapter 5: Tactics and Combinations in Hand-to-Hand Combat
Figure 5-36:
The white
queen has
diverted the
black rook’s
attention
from the
f7 pawn.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
With the black rook now on d6, no one is left to guard the f7 pawn, and white
is free to capture it. Either the white rook on f3 or the bishop on b3 can do
the dirty work (2. Rxf7 or 2. Bxf7+), as Figure 5-37 shows; whatever the case,
the pawn is no more.
8
7
6
Figure 5-37:
White can
capture the
black pawn
with either
the bishop
or the rook.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Chapter 6
Sacrifices: When It’s Better
to Give than to Receive
In This Chapter
䊳 Giving up a guy from the get-go: The gambit
䊳 Betraying the enemy king: The classic bishop sacrifice
䊳 Getting back a piece shortly after a sacrifice
䊳 Thinking ahead: Sacrificing for delayed reparation
I
f you were a single king or queen working two jobs just to send your little
pawns to college, you’d undoubtedly consider yourself to be making a significant sacrifice. On the chessboard, however, a sacrifice (real or otherwise)
is simply an intentional loss of a valuable piece. (An unintentional loss of
something of value is called, technically, a blunder.)
Sometimes, however, you may think you’re making a sacrifice, but you really
aren’t. For example, if you win your opponent’s queen at the cost of your
knight, it may seem like a plain old sacrifice. However, that assumption isn’t
quite correct. You may feel as though you’re sacrificing the knight, but really
you’re simply trading it for a piece of higher value.
One of the odd things about chess is that every move involves both an
advantage and a disadvantage. You must give up something, whether it be
material or space, to get something, such as a lead in development (see
Chapter 3 for more on these elements of chess). So, in the broadest terms,
every move in a chess game involves some sacrifice.
Although speaking of a sacrifice in any one of the elements in chess is technically correct, the most common sacrifice by far is that of material. Specific —
and planned — sacrifices of certain pieces, at the right time, can help players
gain an advantage. Knights may impale themselves on spears so that other
pieces can infiltrate behind enemy lines, pawns may throw themselves under
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the cavalry’s hooves to slow an enemy advance, or the queen may take an
arrow meant for the king — all so that other pieces on the board may someday be better off (that is, on the winning side). The greatest thrill is to sacrifice the queen, because she’s the most powerful piece of all. Chess players
tend toward a flair for the dramatic, and if any chess player can give up a
queen and still beat you, well, just expect a great deal of teasing.
No true chess aficionado can deny that sacrifices rank among the most dramatic events in a chess game. Sacrifices introduce an imbalance among positions and often act as the proverbial bolt from the blue, just as combinations
do (see Chapter 5 for more on combinations, which often involve sacrifices).
If your opponent makes a sacrifice that you haven’t considered, that move
can be quite unnerving. The best thing to do in this situation is to take a few
moments to compose yourself and then calmly try to figure out what’s going
on and how best to proceed. The rule of thumb is that the only way to refute
a sacrifice is to accept it! If you don’t know what to do, take the material.
In this chapter, I discuss the intentional sacrifice of a pawn or piece, either
temporary or permanent, which a player performs in the hope of capitalizing
on some other advantage — and ultimately winning the game.
Sacrificing for an Edge in
Development: The Gambit
In trying to make chess seem difficult and mysterious, chess players have
long called a common type of sacrifice by a different term entirely. We refer
to sacrifices that occur in the opening phase of the game as gambits. Gambits
almost always involve the sacrifice of material for a positional advantage.
In other words, you trade a piece (or more often just a pawn) for a gain in
development (the element of time; see Chapter 3 for details). The reasoning is
simple: If you can get more pieces out into attacking formation much more
quickly than your opponent can, you can conceivably win back the sacrificed
material — and then some — while your opponent is scrambling to catch up.
Gambits are very popular, but you should always keep in mind that they can
be very dangerous. If you don’t secure some compensating advantage, you’ll
be stuck with a long-term material deficit.
One of the oldest gambits in chess is the King’s Gambit, where white’s f-pawn
is the object of sacrifice. A player enters into this type of move by using the
common double king pawn opening (1. e4 e5), where both white and black
advance the king’s pawn two squares (see Figure 6-1).
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive
8
7
6
Figure 6-1:
The King’s
Gambit
begins with
a double
king pawn
move.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
White’s next move is to advance its king’s bishop pawn by two squares (2. f4),
where the white pawn threatens and is itself threatened by the black e-pawn
(as shown in Figure 6-2a). Black can accept the gambit and win material by
capturing the offered f-pawn (2. ...exf4); see Figure 6-2b. White can’t immediately recapture the pawn, meaning that it can’t get even by capturing the
black pawn that just took its pawn.
Figure 6-2:
The white
king’s
bishop
puts its life
out on the
line . . . and
then loses it.
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7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
White was willing to a gambit a pawn in the hopes of securing an advantage
in space by controlling the center (if black’s e-pawn captures white’s f-pawn,
it no longer contests the d4 square). Is the element of material (white will
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Is a gambit a gamble?
A certain amount of risk is involved in playing a
gambit, but the term didn’t derive from the word
gambling. It comes from the Italian word gambetta, which was a wrestling term for tripping
up your opponent by the heels. The gambit was
first used in its chess sense by Ruy Lopez, a
Spanish priest and a renowned chess player,
in 1561.
have one less pawn) more important than the element of space (white will
have more control of the center)? In chess, this type of question has no definitive answer — that’s why you play the games and see how the situations
play out.
As with most gambits, many chess players have differences of opinion about
the effectiveness of the King’s Gambit. Some players like it, and some don’t.
The King’s Gambit is rarely played at the highest levels of chess, so that tells
you that the best players don’t think it’s the best opening choice. However,
this gambit is still dangerous at lower levels, where a single mistake by black
can give white the upper hand.
Giving Up a Bishop
One of the earliest recorded sacrifices appears in Gioacchino Greco’s infamous chess handbook of 1619. This move, called a classic bishop sacrifice,
has been used prominently ever since then, and I advise the serious chess
student to become intimately aware of this type of sacrifice. Nearly every
experienced player knows this sacrifice, because it occurs in practice relatively often. By that, I mean the sacrificial theme occurs in several standard
opening variations.
A bishop sacrifice is especially powerful if a player uses the move to expose
the enemy king to attack. Sometimes this sacrifice can lead directly to checkmate, as in the following example, but often the move just wins back the
material — with interest.
In Greco’s classic bishop sacrifice, one player sacrifices a bishop to expose the
enemy king to a brutal attack by the queen on d1 and knight on f3. The white
bishop on d3 has access to the black king via the black pawn on h7, and the
white queen on d1, along with her knight on f3, is prepared to quickly enter
the fray. Figure 6-3 shows the basic setup for the classic bishop sacrifice.
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive
8
7
6
5
Figure 6-3:
The basic
setup for
the classic
bishop
sacrifice.
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
To initiate the sacrifice, the white bishop captures the pawn on h7 (1. Bxh7+),
putting the enemy king in check (see Figure 6-4a). Of course, the black king
can escape the check by moving right one square to h8, but if he doesn’t capture the bishop, then he’ll have lost a pawn for nothing (see the king’s capture in Figure 6-4b).
Figure 6-4:
The white
bishop
becomes a
martyr in
order to
bring out the
black king.
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7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
White is now behind in material, having traded a bishop for a pawn, or three
points for one. (Consult Chapter 3 for the relative value of pieces.) However,
this loss in material is meaningless if white can deliver checkmate.
Next, the knight from f3 jumps into the arena (2. Ng5+), putting the black king
in check (see Figure 6-5a). The black bishop on e7 can capture the marauding
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knight on g5, but if he does, his fate is sealed. White could capture the bishop
with the pawn on h4, and the white rook on h1 would check the black king.
The white queen would then join the attack on the next move by moving to
the h-file, and the lights would go out for the black king. Jumping back to the
situation at hand, black avoids this fate by moving its king back to g8 (2. ...Kg8),
as shown in Figure 6-5b.
Figure 6-5:
The white
knight
checks the
black king,
so the king
gets the
heck out of
the way.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
Even though black sidestepped one scenario ending in checkmate, he’s still
foiled once again by the relentless advance of the white queen to h5 (3. Qh5),
as shown in Figure 6-6. Checkmate is unavoidable no matter what black does,
because white will move the queen to h7. For example, if black moves the
f-pawn forward to f6 (3. ...f6) then the white queen’s next move to h7 (4. Qh7#)
would be checkmate.
8
7
6
Figure 6-6:
The black
king senses
the smell of
death as the
white queen
hunts him
down.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive
Immediate Gratification:
The Temporary Sacrifice
Chess players call sacrifices that lead directly to the win of more material
pseudo-sacrifices or, more commonly, temporary sacrifices. This type of sacrifice involves an initial loss of material but is followed by its immediate, or
near immediate, recovery.
The following example demonstrates a temporary sacrifice in practice. The
position is pretty similar to the one in Figure 6-3 in the “Giving Up a Bishop”
section, but in this case, white merely wins material and doesn’t press on to
checkmate (see Figure 6-7 for the setup, which has a few subtle differences
from the one in the classic bishop sacrifice section).
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 6-7:
The stage is 3
set for a
temporary 2
sacrifice. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
As in the classic bishop sacrifice, white sacrifices its light-squared bishop by
capturing the pawn on h7 (1. Bxh7+), putting the black king in check (see
Figure 6-8a). The black king then must capture the bishop (1. ...Kxh7) or else
suffer the uncompensated loss of a pawn (see Figure 6-8b).
White then brings out the queen to h5 (2. Qh5+); in doing so, the queen
checks the black king and simultaneously attacks the unprotected knight
on d5 (see Figure 6-9a). The black king is forced to retreat to g8 (2. ...Kg8)
on the back rank (see Figure 6-9b).
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8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 6-8: 4
The white
3
bishop
seals his 2
own fate.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
The black king’s retreat enables the white queen to capture the knight on d5
(3. Qxd5), as shown in Figure 6-10. White thus wins a knight and a pawn in
exchange for temporarily sacrificing the bishop.
Figure 6-9:
The white
queen
threatens
two black
pieces, so
the black
king hides.
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6
6
5
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4
4
3
3
2
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1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 6-10:
The white 3
queen
captures the 2
black knight. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
A Strategic Move for the Patient:
The Permanent Sacrifice
A permanent sacrifice is one where the material isn’t immediately recovered.
Usually, the goal in making this type of sacrifice is a strategic one. One side
gives up material in order to secure a lasting advantage in another area, such
as space or development (see Chapter 3). These types of sacrifices can’t be
calculated but are a product of intuition and imagination — and are what elevate chess play to artistry.
In the classic example of a permanent sacrifice, white trades a pawn to disrupt black’s development. In this case, white isn’t simply trading a pawn for a
quick lead in development, as it may do with a gambit, but rather for a lasting
advantage based on black’s difficulty in getting its pieces coordinated. The
following example gives you an idea of how such a sacrifice may work. Check
out the starting position (which is from a variation of the Caro-Kahn Defense)
in Figure 6-11.
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8
7
6
Figure 6-11:
The board
right before
white
makes a
permanent
sacrifice.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
To initiate the sacrifice, white advances its pawn on e5 to e6 (1. e6) and
exposes it to capture (see Figure 6-12a). The black pawn on f7 then takes out
the white pawn (1. ...fxe6); see Figure 6-12b.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 6-12: 4
A white
3
pawn takes
one for 2
the team.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
In response to its sacrifice, white doesn’t try to regain the pawn. White
simply continues to develop its pieces by moving out the kingside knight to
f3 (2. Nf3); see Figure 6-13. But has the white pawn’s valor gone unnoticed? By
no means. Black’s position is now disorganized thanks to white’s sacrifice,
Chapter 6: Sacrifices: When It’s Better to Give than to Receive
and getting its pieces out to good squares is now going to be difficult. In particular, black has doubled e-pawns — the pawn on e7 can’t move until the one
on e6 does (see Chapter 3 for more on doubled pawns). So none of black’s
pieces can move onto or through the e7 square until both e-pawns are moved.
White may need to make many additional moves to take advantage of the
scrambling on black’s end. It’s not clear when, or even if, the lost pawn will
ever be recovered, which is why the sacrifice is called a permanent one.
8
7
6
Figure 6-13:
White
ignores
the pawn
capture and
focuses
on development.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The king of sacrifice, Mikhail Tal
A grandmaster from Riga, Latvia, Mikhail Tal
(1936–92) became world chess champion in
1960. Tal was widely popular for his brilliant sacrificial play. Describing the details of his brilliancy
would take way more page space than this book
allows, so I recommend that you check out The
Magic of Mikhail Tal by Joe Gallagher, published by Everyman Chess, to see what I mean.
Tal was so taken with chess that he supposedly
kept sneaking out of the hospital after having a
kidney removed, just to play in the local chess
club. He was also famous for his intimidating
stare. Combined with his ability to seemingly
summon sacrifices out of the air in positions
where no one else would even consider them,
this stare gave Tal an almost mystical aura. One
grandmaster even went so far as to wear sunglasses during a game to avoid Tal’s “evil eye.”
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Chapter 7
Mastering Mating Patterns
In This Chapter
䊳 Taking advantage of a king trapped on the back rank
䊳 Delivering checkmate with the queen and a pawn
䊳 Riding to victory: The queen and a knight
䊳 Covering all territory: A bishop and a rook
T
o my knowledge, Dr. Ruth has never seriously studied mating patterns in
chess, but I think that everyone interested in the game should engage
most seriously in such a study. In case you’re wondering, procreation isn’t
involved; in chess, mating means to combine the pieces’ powers to end up with
checkmate, the position that signals victory (mate, in turn, is short for checkmate). One of the best ways to become familiar with the powers of each piece
on the chessboard is to try to checkmate a lone king with each of them in turn.
You quickly discover that even with the help of the king, neither the knight nor
the bishop can accomplish checkmate without the aid of another piece, but the
rook and the queen can (as long as the king helps them, of course).
Some mates occur frequently or are otherwise well known in chess literature,
and these are generally referred to as mating patterns. Most strong players
have committed a slew of mating patterns to memory. Memorizing such patterns makes calculating moves much easier, so I highly recommend that every
chess player become familiar with at least some of the patterns described in
this chapter. These patterns occur again and again in chess, and nothing is
quite like the feeling of seeing one pop up in one of your own games. Or, on
the other hand, if you know a pattern, you can figure out what moves to play
in order to get to it. You’re either ecstatic to spot a way to checkmate your foe
or downcast when you realize that you’re the one caught in the net.
For more information on mating and mating patterns, I recommend The Art of
Attack by Vladimir Vukovic. Most of what I know about the subject I learned
from that book.
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Beware the scholar’s mate
Beginners are frequently seduced by the power of the queen and move her early and often. This
tendency is unfortunately reinforced in their minds when they learn of the scholar’s mate (mate is
shorthand for checkmate). The scholar’s mate is one of the shortest mates possible, but you can
easily defend against it. First, both players advance the pawns in front of their kings (1. e4 e5). Next,
they both develop their bishops to a centralized square (2. Bc4 Bc5). See the following two figures
for the illustration.
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4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Third, white brings out its queen to attack several black pawns (3. Qh5), and black’s knight (3. ...Nc6)
defends the pawn in the center of the board — which is the wrong pawn to defend! Observe the
suspenseful scenario in the following two figures.
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6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
White delivers checkmate (4. Qxf7#)! Black’s king is trapped, with nowhere to move and no one to
help him. See the following figure.
8
7
6
5
4
The black king can't simply capture
the attacking white queen because
this bishop supports her.
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The scholar’s mate isn’t a dangerous strategy. Here’s just one idea that prevents white from executing its plan. By moving the knight out before the bishop, black not only takes away the queen
move, but also threatens the advanced white pawn (see the following figure). White would be frustrated on the second move!
8
7
6
The white queen would be
captured (by the black knight)
if placed here.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Beware the Unprotected Back Rank:
Back Rank Mates
The first mating pattern — and by far the most common — is the back rank
mate, which involves an unprotected back rank and a trapped king on that
rank. After the king castles (see Chapter 9), he’s often under the protection of
three pawns positioned directly in front of him. Sometimes, however, these
protectors become turncoats — the pawns protect their king but also trap
him (see Figure 7-1). The difference in the two sides’ positions in Figure 7-1 is
that the white rook protects the white back rank — but the black rook isn’t
protecting its own back rank.
8
7
Figure 7-1:
The black
king is
trapped on
the back
rank with
no one to
protect him.
6
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
White takes advantage of the unprotected back rank by moving its rook to d8
and checkmating the black king (1. Rd8#); see Figure 7-2.
The black king is trapped!
8
7
6
5
Figure 7-2: 4
The white 3
rook checkmates black 2
with ease.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
If the turn to move had been black’s, black could’ve avoided the checkmate
by moving any of the pawns forward and giving its king some room to move.
Pair the Heavy and the Light:
Queen and Pawn Mates
The queen can’t deliver checkmate without help but can do so with the aid of
even a single pawn. Many chess games have been decided by a variation of
this theme. First I show you the simplest form, which I’ve set up for you in
Figure 7-3, and then I explain a more complicated — but common — version.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 7-3:
The black 3
king has
nowhere 2
to flee. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Of course, white is a queen ahead in this scenario and should win in any case,
but the point is to concentrate forces on the cluster around the black king.
The position in Figure 7-3 illustrates a typical queen and pawn mating pattern. The black king can’t escape and can’t avoid white’s threat to deliver
checkmate. Because it’s white’s turn, the queen moves to g7 and puts black in
check (1. Qg7#); see Figure 7-4. Black has no open squares to move to, and
because the white pawn on f6 is protecting the queen, the black king can’t
capture the queen — checkmate!
The pattern in Figures 7-3 and 7-4 also occurs where the advanced white pawn
is on h6 and the queen is on f6. The queen can still deliver checkmate on g7.
Now for the more complicated version: In 1512, a Portuguese apothecary
named Damiano published a study of the queen and pawn mating pattern.
The study concludes with a classic queen and pawn mate and is known as
Damiano’s mate.
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8
7
6
5
4
Figure 7-4:
The white 3
queen
secures 2
checkmate. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The mating pattern is essentially the same as in the first example — the king
is trapped behind a combination of white and black pawns (see Figure 7-5).
8
7
6
Figure 7-5:
Damiano’s
mate begins
with a king
trapped
behind
some
pawns.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
After white recognizes the mating pattern, finding the rather shocking rook
sacrifice (where the rook sacrifices his life for the greater good; see Chapter 5)
is easy. In Figure 7-6a, white sacrifices the rook on h1 by moving it to h8
(1. Rh8+) and putting the enemy king in check. Because the black king has
no other legal move, he’s forced to capture the rook (1. ...Kxh8) in order to
escape the check; see Figure 7-6b.
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
Figure 7-6:
3
White
sacrifices 2
a rook.
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
The idea behind this particular rook sacrifice is that the rook can’t deliver
checkmate from h7, but the queen can. (The pawn on g6 would protect a
queen on h7. The trick is figuring out how to get her there.) This idea leads
white to consider how best to get the queen into position without giving
black any time to ready a countermove. The concept of clearing the rooks out
of the way to enable the queen to deliver checkmate is now a chess standard.
Chess players now call such moves clearance sacrifices (see Chapter 5 for
more on the combination involving the clearance sacrifice).
In Figure 7-7a, white checks the king by moving the rook on f1 to h1 (2. Rh1+).
Black has only one move in order to escape the check and moves back to g8
(2. ...Kg8), where it was before the rook capture (see Figure 7-7b).
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 7-7: 4
White again
3
checks the
black king 2
with a rook.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Now white performs another rook sacrifice by moving the rook to h8 (3. Rh8+),
as in Figure 7-6, to clear the path for the queen along the first rank; see Figure
7-8a. Black must capture the rook (3. ...Kxh8), just as before; see Figure 7-8b.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 7-8:
White 4
performs
3
rook
sacrifice 2
number two.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
Now the white queen can move to the h-file (4. Qh1+) and put the black king
in check, as Figure 7-9a shows. In response, black must move back to where it
came from, g8 (4. ...Kg8); see Figure 7-9b.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 7-9:
The white 4
queen takes
3
her turn
at giving 2
check.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
After all this shuffling around, what has white accomplished? For starters,
white has lost two rooks! However, in this case, material doesn’t matter.
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
White’s next move is to advance the queen to h7 (5. Qh7#), which is under
the protection of the pawn on g6, and declare checkmate — see Figure 7-10.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 7-10: 3
White
delivers 2
checkmate. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Queen and pawn mates occur infrequently at the higher levels of chess competitions because both sides know them so well. At lower-level competitions,
however, these queen and pawn mating patterns may not be well known at
all. Therefore, Damiano’s mate can be an important weapon to have in your
arsenal as you begin your chess adventures!
Mount Her Royal Highness:
Queen and Knight Mates
The queen and knight are especially powerful in mating combinations. This
capability has something to do with the fact that the knight has powers that
the queen doesn’t, and the two pieces are perfect complements — so they
join forces in several ways to produce mating patterns.
Figure 7-11a shows the beginning of a common mating pattern with queen
and knight. The knight and queen are both attacking h7, and the threat is
checkmate on white’s next move of the queen to h7 (1. Qh7#). Notice that
moving either pawn wouldn’t help black, because the queen’s move to h7
would still be checkmate. Black’s only chance to escape checkmate is to
move the suffocating rook away to c8 (1. ...Rc8), as shown in Figure 7-11b.
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
Figure 7-11:
The white
queen and
knight are
ready to
checkmate
black.
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4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
The rook retreat only prolongs the agony, however, as white still delivers
check by moving the queen to h7 (2. Qh7+), as shown in Figure 7-12a. The
black king is forced to move to f8 (2. ...Kf8) to escape check; see Figure 7-12b.
Note that the role of the knight is primarily to support the queen’s incursion
into the black king’s position by defending h7.
Figure 7-12:
The white
queen puts
the black
king in
check, and
all the king
can do is
try to run.
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6
5
5
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4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
The black king is stuck on the eighth rank, so the white queen now delivers
checkmate by moving to h8 (3. Qh8#); see Figure 7-13.
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 7-13:
The white 3
queen
delivers 2
checkmate. 1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
The queen and knight can combine to deliver checkmate in other ways as well.
One combination in particular is known as the smothered mate, where one poor
king’s own pieces help trap him. The smothered mate is a bit rarer in practice
than the other queen and knight mates but is still worth knowing. If you get a
chance to deliver checkmate in this way, consider yourself to be extremely cool.
In Figure 7-14a, the white queen on c4 is putting the black king on g8 in check,
so the king must move. If the black king moves one square to the left, next to
the rook, white’s queen could deliver checkmate at once by moving the
queen to f7, directly in front of the black king. Note how in that event, the
knight (on g5) would once again be supporting the queen. So black tries to
escape the threat by moving the king into the corner on square h8 (1. ...Kh8),
as Figure 7-14b shows.
Figure 7-14:
The white
queen puts
black in
check, so
the black
king hides in
the corner.
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6
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5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
The white knight jumps to f7 (2. Nf7+), as shown in Figure 7-15a, putting the
black king in check and forcing him back to where he started (2. ...Kg8); see
Figure 7-15b.
Figure 7-15:
The white
knight gives
check, and
the black
king is
back at
square one.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
The knight then moves to h6 (3. Nh6++), delivering double check. (Double
check occurs if the king is attacked by two pieces at once, in this case, the
white queen and knight — see Figure 7-16a.) This type of check is very powerful, because it forces the king to move. Black has no way to block both
checks or capture both checking pieces. The king finds himself forced back
into the corner (3. ...Kh8), as shown in Figure 7-16b.
Figure 7-16:
The white
knight
delivers
double
check with
the queen.
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7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Now white’s next move may seem quite bizarre if you don’t know the smothered mate pattern — the white queen sacrifices herself by moving to g8
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
(4. Qg8+), as shown in Figure 7-17a. In doing so, however, the queen allows
the knight to eventually deliver checkmate. The white knight guards the
queen on g8, so the black king can’t capture her. The piece that black does
use to capture the queen — the knight or the rook — doesn’t matter, because
checkmate follows in either case. In this example, black takes the queen with
the rook (4. ...Rxg8); see Figure 7-17b.
Figure 7-17:
The white
queen
sacrifices
herself so
her knight
can
eventually
steal the
show.
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7
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6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
The white knight then trots to f7 (5. Nf7#), declaring checkmate, as shown in
Figure 7-18.
8
7
6
Figure 7-18:
In honor of
the former
queen, the
white knight
boldly gives
checkmate.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Create a Steamroller with
the Bishop and Rook
In addition to the queen and knight, the other two powerful pieces — the
rook and bishop — make a great mating combo. The two pieces complement
one another because the rook controls files and ranks while the bishop controls diagonals.
Morphy’s mate, named after Paul Morphy, is an example of the bishop and
rook working well together in a mating pattern. Morphy was one of the greatest attacking players of all time. He played some of the most beautiful games
in chess history and introduced chess mavens to more than one mating pattern. (See more on him in the sidebar, “Paul Morphy: The pride and sorrow
of chess.”)
The starting position for this mating pattern is shown in Figure 7-19. Don’t
worry about the piece count in this example; just concentrate on the mating
pattern of the bishop and rook.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 7-19:
Morphy’s 2
mate. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
From the starting position, white makes a surprising move to inevitably produce checkmate. By capturing the black bishop on f6 with the queen (1. Qxf6),
as shown in Figure 7-20a, white forces the black pawn on g7 to capture the
queen (1. ...gxf6); see Figure 7-20b. Otherwise, the white queen could take
that pawn, which is protecting the black king, on the next move. (Note how
the bishop on b2 is providing support along that long diagonal.)
Chapter 7: Mastering Mating Patterns
Figure 7-20:
The white
queen
sacrifices
herself to
draw the
black king’s
pawn away.
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7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
This move by black creates a line to the black king along the now open g-file.
The rook on a1 heads for g1 (2. Rg1+) to put the king in check (see Figure
7-21a), forcing the black king into the corner (2. ...Kh8); see Figure 7-21b.
Figure 7-21:
The white
rook checks
the black
king, who’s
forced to
skedaddle.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
With the rook guarding the g-file, white then delivers checkmate by capturing
the black pawn on f6 with the bishop (3. Bxf6#), leaving no chance of escape
for the black king — see Figure 7-22.
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8
7
6
5
Figure 7-22:
The rook
and bishop
tag team
to deliver
checkmate.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Paul Morphy: The pride and sorrow of chess
Born in New Orleans, Paul Morphy (1837–84)
had a truly meteoric chess career. At a young
age, he burst upon the international scene and
defeated all comers in scintillating fashion. His
games were models of rapid development and
attack.
Morphy was gifted in other fields as well. He
earned his law degree before the age of 21 but
was too young to practice — he believed that
he was simply marking time playing chess until
he became old enough to practice law. In
regard to his talents, his memory was so great
that he could recite much of the Civil Code of
Louisiana verbatim.
Sadly, however, Morphy’s descent from the top
was as abrupt as his rise. At the height of his
powers and fame, he abandoned the game and
grew increasingly withdrawn. He was said to
have suffered from a persecution complex and
died a lonely death. Myths have been built up
surrounding the chess great to account for his
behavior, including unrequited love and bitterness at being snubbed by an elder champion.
Unfortunately, the truth is more likely a prosaic,
if sad, case of mental illness.
Chapter 8
Building Pattern Recognition
In This Chapter
䊳 Knowing why and how to look ahead
䊳 Analyzing your pawn regiment
䊳 Preparing in advance for the endgame
O
ne of the great myths surrounding the game of chess is that you must
be a human calculating machine to play the game. A certain amount of
calculation is involved in any chess game, of course, but chess players primarily rely on pattern recognition (the ability to spot similar configurations of
pieces and pawns) and on intuition to choose their moves. They rarely tell
you this fact, because most of the time the process is subconscious. If you
ask them why they played this move instead of that one, they often reply, “I
just knew what the right move was” — or something equally unenlightening.
If you’re unfamiliar with chess, all positions on the chessboard probably
appear equally chaotic to you. If, however, you’ve seen scores and scores of
games, the significance of many relative positions among chess pieces is
understandable at a glance. Some chess aficionados have likened this building up of a store of recognizable patterns to a sort of chess vocabulary. The
words of any non-native language seem unfamiliar to you at first exposure,
but after you build your vocabulary, you understand many words, terms, and
concepts in the language without any conscious thought at all. That general
idea is pretty much the same in chess.
In this chapter, I explain how chess is all about pattern recognition. As you
become familiar with such tactics as the pin or the fork (see Chapter 5),
you’re actually learning to recognize a pattern. As you study mating patterns
(Chapter 7), you build up a store of knowledge that can help you during play.
You suddenly foresee possible moves much earlier in the game, and you play
that much better. More importantly, if you can remember the ins and outs of
a few patterns of pawn structures, your play in the opening and early middlegame becomes much more coherent and pointed. Finally, by developing your
technique in the endgame, you add the last piece to the puzzle of playing a
well-rounded game of chess.
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Pavlov’s players
Researchers have conducted experiments to
demonstrate the notion of chess as language,
using a sampling of people of widely different
chess strengths. The scientists involved in these
experiments exposed players to several different chess setups consisting of both random
positions and actual gamelike positions. Each
exposure lasted for only a few seconds at a time.
The researchers then asked the subjects to
reconstruct the various positions as the players
remembered them. The stronger players scored
much better in reconstructing the actual gamelike positions than did the weaker players, but
this advantage on the part of the better players
virtually disappeared when they attempted to
reconstruct the random positions. The conclusion? If you take away a player’s knowledge
base about chess by removing any resemblance
to actual game positions, you also take away
that player’s apparent superiority in recall.
Analyzing Chess Positions
and Looking Ahead
Strong players can quickly evaluate many types of positions because they’ve
seen similar positions before. Of course, most positions in chess have their
own quirks or involve other variables that require specific calculations to
truly understand them, but chess players start from a base of common
knowledge about the game and work out the variations from there. You can,
therefore, zero in on a relatively few moves to study seriously, which greatly
reduces the amount of actual calculation.
Processing and analyzing chess positions does seem to be one of those leftbrain–right-brain things. People who are good at spatial relationships seem
able to absorb the patterns in chess a bit easier than those who aren’t so
good in this area. Spatially oriented players build up their chess vocabularies
more rapidly and become fluent in the language of chess much earlier than
do their nonspatially oriented brethren. True pattern recognition skills, however, come mostly from experience with the game. After you see enough different positions on the chessboard, you begin to just know what kinds of
moves you should consider, almost without conscious thought, and you
don’t bother looking at all the alternatives.
Almost every chess master has heard this question: “How many moves can
you see ahead?” One master answered, “Only one. The best one.” This statement contains at least a kernel of truth. I always answer, “It depends.” If you
want to know whether I calculate all the possibilities in any given position,
however, the answer is a definite no. If you want to know how many moves
ahead I can see in any one particular sequence, the answer is that in some
cases, I can see quite far, and in other cases, I can see only a very few moves
ahead. If the position is of a forcing nature, which means that my opponent’s
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
The tree of analysis
Alexander Kotov (1913–81), a former Soviet
champion, wrote a very famous book called
Think Like a Grandmaster. (Well, the book is
familiar to most chess players, at least.) In the
English translation, Kotov introduces players to
the concepts of the tree of analysis and candidate moves.
You can’t climb the tree of analysis, but you can
understand its roots. You can meet each move
that your opponent makes with one of several
replies, and your opponent may in turn respond
to each reply with any of several other moves.
The alternative moves available to you and your
opponent branch out and quickly mask the
forest for all the trees.
Kotov taught that in order to reduce the bushiness of the tree and to better enable players to
see farther ahead in their moves (as well as
anticipate an opponent’s moves), you first need
to settle on which moves are the candidate
moves. Candidate moves are those moves that
you intend to examine closely based on your
intuition. First you look around and use your
intuition to figure out which moves are the
important ones, and only then do you begin to
calculate concrete variations. You must,
according to Kotov, examine each candidate
before making your final selection.
Candidate moves are chosen by a combination
of intuition and judgment. The choices you make
in determining these moves get better with
experience. The calculation of concrete variations is more like work, but it, too, gets better
with practice. The more you practice these
aspects of your game (as well as all others), the
better you get as a chess player.
moves are highly predictable, and I recognize the pattern, then I can calculate
about a dozen moves ahead, sometimes more. The more patterns that I recognize, the farther ahead I can calculate my moves.
Picking Up on Pawn Formations
The easiest patterns to recognize, besides mating patterns (head back to
Chapter 7), are pawn formations, which are often referred to as the pawn
structure. When I speak of pawn formations, I mean the positioning of the
white pawns in relationship to the black pawns, and vice versa. Most masters
can come across a game in progress and make an educated guess as to how
that game began simply by looking at the current pawn structure. They can
do this because pawns are relatively immobile, and it’s difficult to radically
alter their positioning from one phase of the game to the next.
By virtue of their relatively fixed nature, the pawns tell you where to put your
pieces, where to attack, and where to guard against attack. Because the pawns
can’t be as easily repositioned as the pieces, much of the middlegame’s strategy, where the bulk of the battle occurs, revolves around pawn formations, and
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the many slightly differing endings that arise from these formations are tied
together by common threads — so understanding pawn formations is pretty
darned important to your game.
I learned about pawn structures from a book by the great American champion
Ruben Fine (1914–94) called The Ideas Behind the Chess Openings. A more
modern book that deals with this topic is Pawn Structure Chess by Andy Soltis
and is available through any of the mail-order houses listed in Appendix B.
Studying the pawn formations common to a few opening systems gives you
the knowledge of a general strategy that guides you in the selection of specific moves at every turn. Because learning every opening in chess is impossible, most players concentrate on one or two openings to use when playing
white and then a couple more when playing black. If you familiarize yourself
with the formations, you can usually choose good moves — if not always the
very best moves. (I cover the basics on pawn formations here, but I go into
more detail with more advanced formations in Chapter 9.)
The French Defense and the pawn chain
The pawn formation that I understand best arises from an opening called the
French Defense. The French Defense, or simply the French, gained its modern
name in 1834, when a Paris team used the opening to defeat a London team in
a correspondence match. Figure 8-1a shows the starting position for the
French Defense. White (the English) opens the game by moving out the king’s
pawn on e2 two squares to e4 (1. e4). Black (the French) responds by moving
out its king’s pawn on e7 one square to e6 (1. ...e6). The idea behind the
French Defense is to strike back at white’s center pawn in order to contest
white’s control of the center. The first move provides support for the intended
second move. After white advances the other center pawn on d2 two squares
to d4 (2. d4), black follows suit, moving the d7 pawn to d5 (2. ...d5); see Figure
8-1b. Black has now established a pawn chain, which is the way chess players
refer to pawns that are linked together, on the squares f7, e6, and d5.
Now many alternatives are available to white, but one variation in particular
provides the best opportunity to discuss pawn formations. By advancing the
pawn on e4 to e5 (3. e5), white butts heads with black and creates a pawn
chain on squares d4 and e5, as shown in Figure 8-2a.
Pawn chains occur in many games, and the ability to correctly manage such
chains is one of the keys to playing chess well. Aaron Nimzowitsch, a great
expert in the French Defense, taught chess players to attack a pawn chain at
its base. If the base is destroyed, the entire chain is weakened.
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
Figure 8-1:
In the
French
Defense
opening,
white
occupies
two center
squares to
black’s one.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
Armed with Nimzowitsch’s insight, you can easily predict the most usual
response by black, an advance of the pawn on c7 (3. ...c5) to attack the white
pawn on d4, the base of the chain — see Figure 8-2b.
Figure 8-2:
White
creates
a pawn
chain, and a
black pawn
moves in
to attack
the base.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Attacking an advanced pawn chain aggressively, early and often, is vital. If
you don’t attack the chain this way, then your opponent gains an advantage
in space — the e5 pawn is advanced and uses that advantage to mount an
attack. Then you’re too cramped, meaning your pieces don’t have enough
maneuvering room, to meet the attack unless you first go about chipping
away at the chain.
White’s next move is easy to understand if you think in terms of the strength
of pawn chains (see Figure 8-3a). When the white pawn on c2 moves out to c3
(4. c3), white establishes an even longer pawn chain, the base of which lies
deep in white territory and thus is very difficult to attack. Black’s strategy is
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to now move the knight on b8 out to c6 (4. ...Nc6), with the intent of continuing to attack the center pawn on d4 and trying to break the chain apart, as
shown in Figure 8-3b.
Figure 8-3:
White
extends the
pawn chain,
and a black
knight
attempts to
break it
apart.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
White knows exactly what black is trying to accomplish and brings up reinforcements, in the form of its own knight (5. Nf3), to protect the threatened
center pawn on d4 (see Figure 8-4a). Black’s next move may seem strange
unless you understand the strategy involved. Once again, the goal is to attack
a vulnerable point in the chain, the very same point that the black pawn and
black knight are attacking and that the white pawn and white knight are
defending. The strategy in the French Defense revolves around the attack and
defense of this single point. To continue the attack, the black queen on d8
moves to b6 (5. ...Qb6), a position that further supports the attack on this
point (see Figure 8-4b). The queen attacks this strategic point by throwing
her weight behind the black pawn.
Figure 8-4:
The white
knight
responds to
black’s
attack, so
the black
queen
emerges
in fury.
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8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
At this point, white’s options are many, but they all revolve around the attack
and defense of the pawn chain. If white secures the chain, then this success
will lead to a white advantage in space, because the chain is so advanced
(see Chapter 3 for a discussion of space). As a result of this space advantage,
white’s pieces will have more options than black’s, and — unless black is
very resourceful — white may be able to make threats that black will be
unable to defend against.
Black, on the other hand, will continue to try to undermine the pawn chain.
If the pawn chain is weakened — for example, if the base is easily attacked —
then white’s pieces will be forced to defend it. These defending pieces may
then become passive (doing little else but guard duty). Passive pieces generally become less powerful than active ones, and if black is successful in
making white’s pieces take up passive positions, it will soon be black’s turn
to become aggressive and launch an attack.
This back-and-forth tug-of-war over key points is what fills a chess game with
tension. Whoever achieves the short-term goal of securing (or undermining)
the pawn chain will then be able to turn his or her attention to a long-term
goal, such as winning material.
After the French Defense:
Typical pawn formations
From the early opening on, a wide variety of options are open to both players
regarding pawn play. The players can choose to exchange pawns, attack
pawns with pieces or with other pawns, or protect pawns with pieces or
other pawns. Regardless of these choices, however, the resulting pawn formations always boil down to a manageable size. After you become familiar with
these formations, the best thing for you to do is to take a look at some master
games that include them. You may begin to appreciate some moves the masters make that previously may have mystified you. Soon you have a handle
on how to play these formations no matter what choices your opponent
makes, and no move any opponent can make will ever freak you out!
The first of the typical pawn formations that stem from the French Defense
opening and that I want you to consider in this section is the most basic one.
In this section, I use the figures to show you only the pawns to best draw
attention to the formations themselves (see Figure 8-5). Of course, the pieces
are still an important part of the strategy, but I’ve taken them out of the pictures just to help you see these formations clearly.
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8
7
6
Figure 8-5:
The typical
pawn
structure
following
the French
Defense
opening.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
In the basic position in Figure 8-5, play revolves around the attack and defense
of the pawn on d4. Sometimes, white abandons the point by capturing the black
pawn on c5 with the d4 pawn (1. dxc5) to whip up a speedy attack. Black then
captures the white pawn on c5 with a piece (which, for the sake of these pawn
illustrations, is still invisible). The resulting pawn formation is shown in Figure
8-6. Black could then begin an attack on the advanced pawn on e5, which is suddenly shorn of its protector, forcing white to find a new way to defend it.
8
7
6
5
This pawn has lost its protector!
4
The white pawn that was here captured
the black pawn . . . but was captured in
turn by a black piece!
Figure 8-6: 3
The white
pawn chain 2
is broken. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
White will need to either use a piece to defend the advanced e-pawn (and
remember, pieces don’t like guard duty — they’d rather be off attacking something) or bring up another pawn, f4, to serve as a defender. If white takes the
latter course, the resulting formation may look like the one shown in Figure
8-7a. Black may then strike at the head of the pawn chain by moving the
f-pawn to f6, creating a structure that looks like the one shown in Figure 8-7b.
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 8-7: 4
White
3
establishes
a new 2
chain.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
The pawns may or may not capture one another, but two different types of
formations could result if they did. If the white pawn captures the black pawn
(exf6), and a black piece captures the white pawn on f6 on black’s next turn,
then the structure will look like the one in Figure 8-8 (but remember, the
pieces on this series of boards are still invisible).
8
7
Figure 8-8:
The white
pawn
captured
the black
pawn and
then was
captured
by a black
piece.
6
The white pawn moved to capture
the black pawn and was captured
by a black piece.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If, on the other hand, white doesn’t choose to capture the black pawn and
makes some other move instead (which I haven’t shown for the sake of keeping the focus on the pawn formation only), another situation is possible. The
black pawn can capture the white pawn (fxe5), and white can capture back
(or as chess players say, recapture). The structure would look like the one in
Figure 8-9.
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8
7
6
Figure 8-9:
The white
pawn on
e5 has
recaptured
the black
pawn.
This white pawn has captured the
black pawn that just captured the
advanced white pawn.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Of course, white can employ a whole different strategy, going all the way back
to Figure 8-5. White doesn’t have to abandon the chain with the capture of
the black pawn on c5. If white plays in this manner, black may exchange
pawns (black captures a pawn with a pawn, cxd5, and white also captures a
pawn with a pawn, cxd5). The base of the chain would then be on d4. The formation could then look like the one shown in Figure 8-10.
8
7
Figure 8-10:
After the
black pawn
captures a
white pawn,
the c3 pawn
captures
that black
pawn.
6
5
After the black pawn captures a
white pawn, this white pawn captures it.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
Eyeing the Endgame Patterns
Certain types of endings will be won, lost, stalemated, or drawn depending
both on how they objectively should play out and on your ability to recognize
certain endgame patterns as they appear. You can try to figure out which
endgame patterns work — and which don’t — right at the chessboard as you
play . . . or you can learn about these patterns beforehand in the privacy of
your own home. (I recommend the latter.) After you add a number of these
patterns to your repertoire, expect to notice a big jump in your playing
strength.
Endgame patterns are an important, but often neglected, area of chess — an
area that all players need to understand. Inexperienced players, however,
may simply think that they can worry about the end of the game when — and
if — they get there. Such thinking is flawed for many reasons, primarily
because of the enormous difficulty involved in inventing (or more precisely,
reinventing) the correct line of play as you reach that portion of the game —
which you’re likely to need to do if you’ve neglected to study your endgames.
And, of course, most players find extremely helpful the ability to determine
whether a certain endgame pattern is likely to end in a win, a draw, or a loss
before going into it. Many of the decisions you make in your middlegame are
likely to depend on your knowledge of these patterns. (For example, should I
trade queens and go into the ending, or keep the queens on the board and go
for an attack?)
The good news, however, is that you don’t have to study all the various
endgame patterns that are available — especially if all you want is to enjoy
playing chess. If, however, your goal is to become a chess master, you need
to master the endgame.
Note: Endgame patterns are not to be confused with mating patterns —
mating patterns can occur in either the middlegame or the endgame.
An outstanding introduction to endgame patterns is Chess Endings: Essential
Knowledge by Yuri Averbakh, published by Everyman Chess.
The endgame pattern known as Lucena’s position was first recorded in the
oldest surviving book on chess, written in 1497 by Luis Lucena. This pattern,
with its two methods of play, is only one of many such endgame patterns you
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Part II: Gaining Chess Know-How
can use to strengthen your game. Building your chess vocabulary with this
and other endgame patterns, however, requires a great deal of study. And as
is true of study in any other field, mastering the subject matter takes work.
Figure 8-11 shows the starting lineup for Lucena’s position.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 8-11:
Lucena’s 2
position. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
In this endgame pattern, white is trying to queen its pawn on d7 (which means
advancing the pawn to the last rank and converting it to a new queen; see
Chapter 10 for this special move known as pawn promotion), and black is
trying to prevent that from happening. If black can keep the pawn from
queening, then the game ends in a draw, because that is the only decisive
advantage either side has. If white can force the black rook on c2 to sacrifice
itself to prevent the pawn from queening, white can then use the king and
rook to force checkmate, using a mating pattern described in Chapter 7.
Lucena demonstrated two methods to induce a win for white in this position.
The first method is probably the easiest, but you really need to know both
methods because a peculiar arrangement of pieces sometimes forces you to
use one instead of the other. As such, I explain both methods in the following
two sections.
Transferring the rook
The first idea is for white to transfer the rook on f1 to the eighth rank, specifically to c8 in two steps in order to support the advance of the d7 pawn to d8.
The first step in the transfer is shown in Figure 8-12a, when the white rook
slides left to a1 (1. Ra1). Black responds by bringing the king on g7 closer to
the pawn, to f7 (1. ...Kf7); see Figure 8-12b.
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
Figure 8-12:
The white
rook heads
for the
eighth rank,
and the
black king
approaches
the pawn.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
White now transfers the rook on a1 to the eighth rank (2. Ra8); see Figure
8-13a. Black marks time with the rook because it has nothing better to do,
moving it down to c1 (2. ...Rc1); see Figure 8-13b. Notice that if black uses its
king to attack the pawn by moving him to e6, then the black king actually
serves as a shield for white’s king. The white king could then move in front of
the black king to e8, allowing the pawn to queen on the next move (note that
the black king would block the black rook from checking the white king).
Figure 8-13:
White
secures
a position
on the
eighth rank,
and black
marks time.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
White attacks the black rook by moving the rook on a8 to c8 (3. Rc8), as
shown in Figure 8-14a, forcing the black rook to move off the c-file. The black
rook, therefore, has nothing better to do than attack the white pawn, so he
moves to d1 (3. ...Rd1); see Figure 8-14b. This strategy creates an escape
route for the white king, because white is now in control of the c-file.
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Figure 8-14:
The white
rook forces
the black
rook to
move.
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2
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a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
The white king moves to c7 (4. Kc7), which the black rook no longer attacks,
and in turn clears the way for the advance of the d7 pawn to the last rank, as
shown in Figure 8-15a. Black must now check the king to prevent the pawn
from queening, so the d1 rook moves to c1 (4. ...Rc1+); see Figure 8-15b. If,
instead, the black king approached the pawn again (4. ...Ke6), white could win
by checking the king with the rook, supported by the pawn. This would force
the king to retreat anywhere, allow the pawn to queen, and force black to give
up the rook for the pawn, leaving white with rook and king versus rook. The
mate with king and rook versus king is demonstrated in Chapter 4.
Figure 8-15:
The white
king gets
out of the
pawn’s way,
and black
checks the
white king.
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b
c
d
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a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
The white king approaches the black rook by moving to b6 and out of check
(5. Kb6), as shown in Figure 8-16. Black can continue checking the king with
the rook — but only until the king advances far enough to attack the rook. At
that point, black must surrender the rook for the pawn and eventually get
checkmated.
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
8
7
Figure 8-16:
The white
king
marches
toward the
black rook,
but black’s
defeat is
inevitable.
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3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
Building a bridge
The second winning method using Lucena’s position is often called building a
bridge. In this method, white uses the rook to shield the king from checks by
the black rook.
The starting pattern for building a bridge is the Lucena position (refer to Figure
8-11). From there, the first step is for white to move the rook to the fourth rank
(1. Rf4), as shown in Figure 8-17a. (The reason for this move becomes clear by
the end of this example.) Because the black rook has nothing better to do, it
can only mark time in one of several ways (in this case, 1. ...Rc1), none of which
affect the ultimate outcome (see Figure 8-17b).
Figure 8-17:
The white
rook takes
stock on the
fourth rank,
and black
marks time.
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c
d
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a
f
g
h
a
b
c
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b
f
g
h
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White’s king now comes out from under the cover of the pawn (2. Ke7), as
Figure 8-18a shows. The best defense available to black is to constantly
harass the white king, so black then checks the white king by moving the
rook to the e-file (Re1+); see Figure 8-18b.
Figure 8-18:
The white
king rears
his head,
and black
puts him
in check.
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3
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a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
The king moves onto the same file as the pawn (3. Kd6), as shown in Figure
8-19a. Black checks the king again (3. ...Rd1+); see Figure 8-19b.
Figure 8-19:
The white
king and
black rook
continue
to play cat
and mouse.
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b
c
d
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f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
White moves the king away (4. Ke6) and still protects the pawn (see Figure
8-20a). Black checks the king again (4. ...Re1+), as Figure 8-20b shows.
Chapter 8: Building Pattern Recognition
Figure 8-20:
The white
king
protects his
pawn, but
black won’t
let him go.
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4
3
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a
b
c
d
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f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
White advances the king toward the black rook (5. Kd5), again moving out of
check (see Figure 8-21a). Black gives check one last time (5. ...Rd1+); see
Figure 8-21b.
Figure 8-21:
You guessed
it: The white
king moves,
and the
black rook
follows.
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a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
White then builds the bridge, which is a phrase coined by Aaron Nimzowitsch,
by covering the king with the rook (6. Rd4); see Figure 8-22. Now the reason
why white moved the rook to the fourth rank back in Figure 8-17 is finally
clear: The rook can now shield the king from further checks.
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8
7
6
Figure 8-22:
The white
rook
completes
the bridge,
leaving the
pawn free
to queen.
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4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 9
Recognizing Pawn Formations
In This Chapter
䊳 Understanding why pawn formations matter
䊳 Setting up the most common ones
䊳 Identifying the strengths and weaknesses of certain formations
W
hen you first start to play chess, it may seem as though the pawns are
just in the way of the real pieces. You might only move them because
you have to in order to get the big guys (and gal) involved. You may also be
thinking that those pesky pawns move about the board rather stuffily — after
all, they’re only allowed to move forward and often only one square at a time.
They may be in the way and slow, but they still have a huge influence on the
game. (See more about their influence and structure in Chapter 3.)
In this chapter, you explore several tried-and-true pawn formations that you
can use to your advantage. After you understand where the pieces ought to go
to complement these different pawn formations, you’re well on your way to
playing a good game of chess. Some pawn formations are specific to an opening or a defense, but they can theoretically occur for either white or black.
Exploring the Powers of Pawn Formations
A pawn formation, which is a group of pawns working together, can make a big
difference in the way a game plays out. Experienced players can often look at
a game in progress and correctly identify the game’s opening moves. They can
do so because some openings regularly produce the same types of pawn formations. In large part, these formations determine what the optimal piece placement should be in the game, providing, in effect, a guide for subsequent play.
Didn’t know that pawns had such power? The good news is that you don’t
have to figure out where the pawns go all by yourself. Some specific formations stand the test of time. The bad news is that you can’t always choose the
formation you want. Your opponent has some say in the matter, too, because
how he or she plays affects the choices you have. For that reason, you should
at least be somewhat familiar with multiple types of pawn formations.
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Seeing how pawn formations
can affect a game
Because pawns are more stationary than the rest of the chess pieces —
they can’t back up, and they normally stay in the same place for a while —
recovering from a mistaken pawn move is difficult. So moving them is important. When you know where the pawns go to create formations, you have a
good idea of where the other pieces should go to complement them. You also
have insight into which pieces you want to keep and which ones you want to
get rid of.
Figure 9-1 shows a typical position in the advanced variation of the French
Defense (see Chapter 8 for the basics on that opening) after the opening
pawn moves (1. e5 e6 2. d4 d5; flip to Chapter 17 if you need help deciphering
the notation in this chapter). The chain of black pawns on light squares
greatly restricts the mobility of the black light-square bishop, which makes
that piece less valuable.
These pawns block black’s
light-square bishop.
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7
6
5
4
Figure 9-1: 3
The
bishop is 2
hemmed in.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
You can already see why the pawn formation is important. A piece’s power is
based on its mobility, and white’s light-square bishop is much more mobile
than black’s, which is hemmed in behind its own pawns. Black should try to
trade the two bishops, eliminating both, to free up some mobility, but white
should try to avoid such an exchange. Why give up a strong piece for a
weaker one?
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations
Beginners sometimes check their opponents as soon as possible, but doing
so is often a mistake. For example, white can give a check by moving its lightsquare bishop to b5 (3. Bb5+), as demonstrated in Figure 9-2a, but that move
is weak. Figure 9-2b shows why. If the black bishop moves out (3. ...Bd7),
white has to either retreat, which is a waste of time, or allow the bishops to
be traded. With white’s center pawns on dark squares, white should try to
keep the light-square bishop on the board.
White’s light-square bishop’s mobility is unimpeded by the pawns, and it can
guard squares that the pawns can’t. The mobility of black’s light-square bishop
is severely limited and guards the same squares as black’s pawns on light
squares. White’s bishop is relatively strong, and black’s is relatively weak. You
should try to keep your strong pieces and seek to trade your weak ones.
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7
6
6
5
5
Figure 9-2:
Checking an 4
opponent
3
too soon
in a game 2
is foolish.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Using your pawns to your advantage
Recognizing pawn formations goes a long way toward identifying the best
course of action to take in any given game. Understanding the strengths and
weaknesses of particular formations guides you as to where to place your
pieces. It also helps you identify the appropriate plan to accentuate strengths
in your position and minimize weaknesses. Pawns may not be as powerful as
the other pieces on the board, but they are big variables in any chess equation.
One of the advantages of moving first is that establishing a pawn formation,
such as the Nimzo-Botvinnik or Closed English (see those sections later in
this chapter), is easier. Part of the struggle in a game of chess is over which
pawn formation will arise. Some people like closed pawn formations, such as
the Stonewall, but others prefer open formations, where the pieces have free
reign. The game can turn into a real contest of wills if one player is trying to
keep the formation closed and the other is trying to open it up.
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The key to understanding any kind of pawn formation is to evaluate its
strengths and weaknesses. Some formations cause certain pieces to become
more valuable than others, as you can see if you refer to Figure 9-2b. Many
different types of pawn formations exist, and they may change during the
course of a game. A closed formation may suddenly open, for example, if
enough pawn exchanges take place.
No matter what the pawn formation is, you can learn something from it. The
formation may tell you which pieces to keep and which ones to get rid of. It
may dictate whether you should attack on one side of the board or the other.
Just remember that pawn formations offer a lot of information, and it pays to
listen carefully to what they have to say.
Getting the Bishop Involved:
The Fianchetto
Fianchetto (pronounced fyan-ket-toe) is an Italian word that means “on the
flank.” In chess terms, the word applies to a particular pawn and bishop formation and is a common feature of many openings. The fianchetto pawn formation would be weak without the presence of the bishop, because the
pawns control squares of one color only, not both. In Figure 9-3a, the light
squares around black’s queenside pawns, a6 and b7, are undefended and
weak; so are the light squares around white’s kingside pawns, such as h3. The
bishop thus comes in to guard the squares that the pawns don’t, creating a
black queenside fianchetto and a white kingside fianchetto, as shown in
Figure 9-3b. Note: In order to clearly depict the formation, I’ve stripped the
pieces that are unessential to this formation from the figures.
Figure 9-3:
The pawns
prepare for
fianchettoes, and
the bishops
complete
the fianchettoes.
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3
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2
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a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations
Looking at fianchetto strengths
In chess history, the fianchetto took a while to catch on. Classical theory
considered it important to centralize pieces, and obviously, the fianchetto
bishop is developed on the flank. The fianchetto became popular in the 20th
century, when players learned that occupation and control of the center
weren’t necessarily one and the same. Another maxim was to minimize pawn
moves around your king, so castling behind a fianchetto formation didn’t
seem safe. (See Chapter 10 for the scoop on castling.)
However, it turns out that the fianchetto is a tough nut to crack, because all
the squares are covered either by the pawns or the bishop. Attacking isn’t
easy when your opponent’s lineup doesn’t have a weakness.
Another strength of the fianchetto formation is that the bishop is placed on
the longest diagonal possible. This placement potentially maximizes its
mobility. Lastly, this diagonal cuts through the center of the board, so the
bishop really is centralized in a manner of speaking, but from a safe distance.
Watching out for fianchetto weaknesses
If you can manage to eliminate the fianchetto bishop, the surrounding
squares will be weakened (refer to Figure 9-3a). You may be able to maneuver
your pieces onto those weakened squares, in which case your opponent will
have a difficult time driving them away. Figure 9-4 illustrates one way you
may accomplish this position. In Figure 9-4a, the white queen supports the
white bishop’s impending invasion to h6. After the bishop moves to h6
(1. Bh6), it can capture black’s bishop on g7 (2. Bxg7). Even though black can
restore material balance by recapturing the bishop with the king (2. ...Kxg7),
the dark squares on black’s kingside will have lost their primary defender.
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7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 9-4: 4
One way to
3
maneuver
around the 2
fianchetto.
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3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Varying the Sicilian: The Dragon
The Dragon, which is the name of a variation of the Sicilian Defense (see
Chapter 12 for more on that opening), features a kingside fianchetto (see the
previous section). It was named after a constellation of stars and arises after
the following opening moves: 1. e4 c5, 2. Nf3 d6, 3. d4 cxd4, 4. Nxd4 Nf6, and
5. Nc3 g6.
By looking at just the Dragon’s pawn formation (see Figure 9-5), you can make
an educated guess as to where some of black’s pieces belong. White’s d-pawn
has been eliminated, so it can’t be used in the fight to control the d4 and e5
squares. Black will use pawns and pieces to control those squares. Black also
wants to use the long diagonal (a1–h8) to attack deep into white’s position. As
such, black’s dark-square bishop would be ideally posted along this diagonal.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 9-5:
The 3
Dragon’s
pawn 2
formation. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Black usually castles behind the Dragon formation, and the knights move to
their optimal squares, c6 and f6, as illustrated in Figure 9-6. The Dragon was
once very popular, but a variety of attacking systems for white have been
developed over the years, and most of its fangs have been pulled. It’s still
playable, but its glory days may be over.
Clawing your way across the board:
The Dragon’s pros
Black’s dark-square bishop is one of the strengths of the Dragon formation.
White’s d-pawn has already been eliminated (refer to Figure 9-6), so the
bishop usually has a clear path all the way from black’s kingside to white’s
queenside. Because black’s c-pawn is gone, it is natural for black to move at
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations
least one rook onto the c-file. The combined pressure from the bishop on the
long diagonal and a rook on the c-file can force white into a defensive posture.
The Dragon is at its best when black is attacking aggressively and white has
been reduced to passive defense.
8
7
6
Figure 9-6:
The Dragon
formation
allows the
knights to
guard the
center
squares.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Getting past the Dragon’s drawbacks
One drawback of this formation is that you can’t always play it. If white doesn’t
allow the d-pawn to be captured by black’s c-pawn, then black won’t have the
Dragon formation. It may have something close, but these seemingly trivial
differences are actually quite important, because they may mean you should
put your pieces on entirely different squares.
If black does get the Dragon formation, white will try to capture black’s darksquare bishop. The elimination of that bishop seriously weakens the Dragon
formation. White also has an edge in space (see Chapter 3 for more on that element), which can be used to develop an attack in the center or on the kingside.
The Dragon is often considered double-edged, because both sides are trying
to be as aggressive as possible. Black attacks primarily on the queenside, and
white attacks in the center and on the kingside.
Exercising Your Pawns’ Flexibility:
The Scheveningen
The Scheveningen, which is named after the Dutch city, is a different variation of the Sicilian Defense (see Chapter 12). This opening features a very
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flexible pawn formation, which means that you have multiple ways of positioning your pieces that are equally effective and multiple ways of responding
to various white maneuvers. Many of the world’s best players employ the
Scheveningen because it has proven to be resilient in withstanding the various attacks that white has dreamt up over the years. It arises from the following moves: 1. e4 c5, 2. Nf3 e6, 3. d4 cxd4, 4. Nxd4 Nf6, and 5. Nc3 d6.
With the Scheveningen, black usually ends up with an extra center pawn
and active play on the queenside. White retains a spatial advantage and
opportunities for attack in the center and on the kingside. Figure 9-7a shows
the Scheveningen pawn formation, while Figure 9-7b shows a typical piece
configuration.
Figure 9-7:
The
Scheveningen
formation,
naked and
with friends.
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8
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7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Note that in Figure 9-7b, the bishop on e7 is developed in a more classical
manner in the Scheveningen than in the Dragon, where it is developed on the
flank. From here, it can help protect the black d-pawn. Meanwhile, white
retains an advantage in space, because its center pawn (e4) is on the fourth
rank, while black’s center pawns are on only their third.
Gaining advantage with the Scheveningen
Similar to the Dragon, the Scheveningen is a defense against a king pawn
opening. Achieving the Scheveningen pawn formation may not be possible
unless white cooperates. Obviously, 1. e4 isn’t a mandatory move.
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations
The Scheveningen seeks to establish a safe haven for the black king. The kingside minor pieces are well posted defensively, remaining close by the king but
also being available for action in the center. The black d- and e-pawns are positioned to prevent white’s pieces from penetrating into black territory. With a
strongly defended kingside castle, black is free to initiate action on the
queenside.
Black often advances the remaining queenside pawns, partly to drive away
white pieces and partly to acquire more space. Black can choose to develop
the light-square bishop on either the d7 or b7 square, while black’s major
pieces will gravitate towards the half-open c-file.
Looking at the downside
to the Scheveningen
Aside from the fact that white may not allow you to set up the formation, the
only real drawback to the Scheveningen is that it cedes white a spatial advantage. White often seeks to capitalize on this advantage by attacking in the
center and on the kingside.
A typical move against this formation is for white to advance its f2 pawn to f4.
Black then has to guard against further pawn advances, which would
threaten to break down the kingside defenses.
Building the Stonewall
The idea behind the Stonewall is to keep the center blocked and launch an
attack on the wing. Its fairly rigid pawn formation may leave little operating
room for the pieces. Either side may try to erect the Stonewall, as white has
done in Figure 9-8a. Note that the pawns on d4 and f4 are well protected and
are used to prevent any attempted central advance by black. Figure 9-8b illustrates how little choice white has about where to place its pieces, so transferring the queenside pieces to the kingside will be difficult. The square e5 is
white’s only central invasion point.
The Stonewall is more popular with inexperienced players, because they can
be fairly certain that they’re moving their pieces to the proper squares. More
experienced players prefer to have more flexibility than this formation allows.
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8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
Figure 9-8:
3
A white
Stonewall 2
formation.
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Relying on the Stonewall’s strengths
The Stonewall formation usually results in a closed center, which makes
maneuvering pieces from one side of the board to the other quite difficult. If
you can launch an attack on one side of the board, then the defender may have
a tough time bringing up reinforcements. Because the f-pawn has already been
advanced in the Stonewall (refer to Figure 9-8a), white should attack on the
kingside. You generally try to attack where you have an advantage in space.
Coping with the Stonewall’s weaknesses
The main drawback to the Stonewall formation, besides its rigidity, is the
weakness of the e4 square (from white’s perspective) — with all of white’s
center pawns on dark squares, the light squares are weakened. Notice that no
white pawn can ever guard e4. Therefore, that square may become a haven
for black’s pieces. Allowing your opponent such a nice perch in your own territory is seldom a good idea. This drawback is one reason why strong players
rarely play the Stonewall.
Creating a Megafortress at the Center:
The Double Stonewall
A Double Stonewall pawn formation limits the options for both players. This
lineup is one of the few where black can get away with mirroring white’s
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations
moves. The position is so closed that the advantage of the first move is virtually meaningless (for more on the first-move advantage, see Chapter 3).
Figure 9-9a shows the Double Stonewall pawn formation. You can see that the
center pawns, d4 and d5, are locked. It is unlikely that any further center
pawn advances will take place, and currently no possibility of center pawn
exchanges exists — so this pawn formation will be difficult to change. The
dark square e5 is the only possible central point of invasion for white’s
pieces, and e4 is the only central point of invasion for black’s pieces. When a
pawn formation is fixed in this manner, you have very few decisions to make
about where to put the pieces. Figure 9-9b illustrates how similar the white
and black piece placement can be.
Everything that I say in the preceding section about the Stonewall goes double
here. You rarely see this formation in the games of masters, but you’ll see it
at lower levels.
Figure 9-9:
The Double
Stonewall
pawn
formation;
black can
mimic white.
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5
5
4
4
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a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Knowing the Double Stonewall’s benefits
The best characteristic of the Double Stonewall is that it makes a complicated game much simpler. You lock the center and then try to attack on the
kingside. Your options are so drastically reduced that learning how to play
these positions is fairly easy. This idea is a comfort to some beginners,
because it reduces the number of choices they have to make. However, most
players find that having choices is more of a bonus than a burden. The
Double Stonewall is just not very interesting.
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Dealing with the Double
Stonewall’s downfalls
The main weakness in the Double Stonewall is the inflexibility of the pawn
formation, because you have no chance to advance or exchange pawns in the
center. By making the center a virtual no-man’s land, play is limited to the
wings, which leaves little room to maneuver in and few options for either side.
Matching Color to Center Squares:
The Closed English
In the Closed English formation, white tries to control the light squares in the
center with a combination of pieces and pawns. Unless black tries to challenge white’s control over the light squares, the center may remain closed for
quite some time. White usually expands on the queenside, and black on the
kingside. A typical Closed English pawn formation is illustrated in Figure
9-10a. Note that white would be willing to trade the c-pawn for black’s dpawn. Otherwise, white uses the c-pawn to attack the light square in black’s
center. For a common piece placement after the opening moves 1. c4 e5,
2. Nc3 Nc6, 3. g3 g6, 4. Bg2 Bg7, and 5. d3 d6, see Figure 9-10b.
Notice how white’s c- and d-pawns, knight, and bishop all attack the light
squares in the center (d5 and e4). Black also uses both pawns and pieces to
control the dark center squares. Both players control half the center and concede the other half.
Players who are uncomfortable with the opening moves of a pawn to e4 or d4
often play a pawn to c4, which is called the English Opening. Although the
move to c4 isn’t as popular as the ones to e4 and d4, it’s still considered
mainstream. In other words, you’ll see it at all levels of play.
Eyeing the Closed English benefits
White has a natural advantage on the queenside due to the advanced c-pawn.
Also notice the uninterrupted path of the white fianchetto bishop (on g2) all
the way from the kingside to black’s queenside. White will castle kingside and
advance pawns on the queenside in order to grab even more space.
The fianchetto formation in Figures 9-10a and 9-10b, created by the f-, g-, and
h-pawns, tells you where white’s light-square bishop belongs (g2).
Chapter 9: Recognizing Pawn Formations
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Figure 9-10:
A popular 4
Closed
3
English
pawn 2
formation.
4
3
2
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b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
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b
Coming to terms with the
Closed English pitfalls
In Figure 9-10b, black’s pawn on e5 secures an edge in space on the kingside.
While white is grabbing space on the queenside, black will be doing the same
on the kingside. This hustle can be a little dicey, because the kings are usually castled on the kingside. If you’re uncomfortable allowing your opponent
more space on the side of the board your king is on, the Closed English may
not be the best choice.
Winging It with the Nimzo-Botvinnik
The Nimzo-Botvinnik formation is characterized by pawns on c4 and e4 as
well as a kingside fianchetto, as shown in Figure 9-11a. White piles up pressure on the light center squares, creating a strong, closed center, and prepares for an attack on either wing. A typical piece placement associated with
this pawn formation — after the opening moves 1. c4 c5, 2. Nc3 Nc6, 3. g3 g6,
4. Bg2 Bg7, and 5. e4 — is illustrated in Figure 9-11b.
This formation comes about most frequently from the English Opening (see
the preceding section). It’s a very solid setup that also retains a good amount
of flexibility.
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Figure 9-11:
In the
NimzoBotvinnik,
two pawns
guard the
center, and
a fianchetto marks
a wing.
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In Figure 9-11b, the knight is developed e2 so that it doesn’t interfere with the
fianchetto bishop or the possible advance of white’s f-pawn and so it’s able to
take the other white knight’s place, should that piece move or be captured.
Discovering the advantages
One big advantage of the Nimzo-Botvinnik formation is that white has a secure
hold on the light squares in the center and can expand on either wing. White
can choose to advance on the queenside or the kingside, so this pawn formation provides a little more flexibility than the Closed English (see the preceding section for that lineup).
Weeding out the weaknesses
The primary weakness of this formation is the lack of control over the d4
square. If black tries to establish as firm a grip on the dark center squares as
white has on the light ones, white may have to contest it. Also, with so many
of white’s pawns on light squares, activating white’s light-square bishop may
be difficult.
Chapter 10
Making Special Moves
In This Chapter
䊳 Capturing a passing pawn
䊳 Promoting a pawn to a higher rank
䊳 Castling to move your rook more quickly
I
f you play enough chess, you eventually run into someone who plays by a
different set of rules than the official ones. Such players may have learned
chess from someone who knew most of the rules and fudged on a few others.
Unfortunately, unless you lug a rule book around with you, convincing these
people that you do know the correct rules may be difficult.
In this chapter, I deal with the moves that are most often confused in one way
or another. Knowing these special moves may not help you avoid the occasional disagreement, but you can at least argue with an air of authority — and
for some chess buffs, that’s almost as good as winning. And knowing all the
options available to you in the game always pays off . . . sooner or later.
Capturing a Pawn at Your Side:
En Passant
French for “in passing,” en passant is a special method of capturing available
only to a pawn on its fifth rank. Such a pawn can capture another pawn if the
latter attempts to pass by the first one on an adjacent square. The capturing
pawn moves diagonally one square forward and captures the pawn as if it
had moved only one square forward. Multiple en passant captures can occur
in a game, but you have to make each capture immediately. Only at the end of
a pawn’s first move, and only if it moves forward two squares, can you capture
it en passant — it’s now or never.
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The en passant capture
The following example illustrates an en passant capture. In Figure 10-1, the
white pawn on d2 is on its starting square and is ready to move. Note: To
make the en passant capture crystal clear, I left the other pawns and pieces
off the board — in real play, of course, those pieces would be there.
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5
Figure 10-1:
The pawns
are nearly
ripe for an
en passant
capture.
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
White moves the pawn forward two squares (1. d4); see Figure 10-2a. For one
move — and one move only — black can legally capture white’s pawn (1. ...exd),
just as though the pawn had moved forward only one square; in making the en
passant capture, black’s pawn takes the position that the white pawn would’ve
occupied by moving a single square (see Figure 10-2b).
Figure 10-2:
The brave
white pawn
moves
forward two
squares,
and black
captures it
en passant.
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Chapter 10: Making Special Moves
Of course, if your opponent doesn’t know about the en passant capture, this
ploy comes as quite a shock. Even worse, if you explain that you simply captured en passant, you may be accused of playing by French rules. Calmly
explain that chess is an international game and that the en passant rule was
adopted in the 15th century. You may also add that the rule was universally
accepted by the late 19th century. If you’re playing a casual game just for fun,
however, the sporting thing to do is to allow your opponent to take back his
or her move. But if the match is a tournament game, you must insist on your
rights. The fact that you know this rule and your opponent doesn’t isn’t your
fault!
The en passant details to keep in mind
En passant comes with a few details you want to note. They include the
following:
⻬ The captured pawn must move two squares for en passant to be valid.
⻬ If you don’t capture right away, you lose the right to do so.
⻬ You aren’t required to capture en passant; in fact, sometimes this capture isn’t the best move on the board. For example, if a different move
would place your opponent in checkmate, then you definitely want to
forgo the en passant capture.
Boosting Your Pawns’ Powers:
Promotion Time
After a pawn reaches the end of the board, you can promote that pawn to any
piece of your choosing, except the king (each color can have only one king).
In essence, after its promotion, the pawn is exchanged for that other piece
(you take the pawn off of the board and put the other piece back on in its
staid) — not bad for a lowly pawn. Almost always, players make the pawn
into a queen, because the queen is the most powerful piece on the board
(head back to Chapter 2 for more on the pieces and their powers). Only in
odd, problem positions do players promote a pawn to anything other than a
queen (when a queen would produce stalemate, for example) — this condition
is known as an underpromotion.
Theoretically, you can have nine queens at one time — the eight promoted
pawns and the original queen. Quite a harem for the king! (This scenario,
however, is quite unlikely.)
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In the following example, white is a pawn ahead of black but can’t checkmate
the black king with only the pawn and king. (Wonder why? Chapter 4 has all
you need to know about checkmating.) White moves the pawn to the eighth
rank in order to promote it (see Figure 10-3a). In this case, promoting the
pawn to a queen makes sense, especially because the newly promoted queen
immediately delivers checkmate (see Figure 10-3b). Promoting the pawn to a
rook will also deliver checkmate in this particular example, however, so either
choice is equally powerful here. Underpromoting to a knight or bishop would
be folly, because these pieces can’t checkmate the king by themselves.
Figure 10-3:
White
promotes its
pawn to a
queen and
immediately
delivers
checkmate.
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Players often call the square on which a player can promote a pawn the
queening square, because in all likelihood, the pawn becomes a queen after
reaching that square. It’s important to control the queening square so that,
should your opponent’s pawn reach that square, you can capture the new
queen right away.
Guarding Your King and Putting
a Rook in Motion: Castling
Castling is a move that safeguards the king and activates a rook at the same
time. It’s also the only time in chess when you can move two pieces at once.
You may castle on the kingside (right) or on the queenside (left), but the rule
is the same: The king moves two squares to the right or left, and the rook
Chapter 10: Making Special Moves
The three-king circus
The famous chess teacher George Koltanowski
was fond of telling the following story: He was
teaching the rules of the game to a brand-new
student, and the student was eager to play a
game right away. George easily set up a mating
net (a situation where checkmate is eventually unavoidable), in which the student’s king
couldn’t escape checkmate. While George was
setting up the checkmate, the student was busy
pushing a pawn toward the queening square.
George saw that the pawn could queen, but he
didn’t mind because he was going to deliver
checkmate on the very next move.
George was stunned when the student pushed
the pawn to the queening square and promoted
it to — a king! Seems that George had told the
student that the pawn could be promoted to any
other piece and forgot to mention the restriction
involving kings. The student made him stick to
his own rule! This case may be the only one
involving more than two kings on a chessboard.
With a sly wink, George always ended the story
by saying he played a move that checkmated
both kings simultaneously!
slides around the king and occupies the square adjacent to the king, ending
up on the king’s opposite side. Check out the starting position of the king and
rooks in Figure 10-4 (note that I didn’t include the other pieces on the board
in order to make the castling move easier to see).
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4
Figure 10-4:
The starting 3
lineup of the
white king 2
and rooks. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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White can castle kingside (see Figure 10-5a) or queenside (see Figure 10-5b).
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5
Figure 10-5:
White has 4
two options:
3
castling
kingside or 2
queenside.
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b
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In both cases, the king moves two squares to the side and the rook slides
around to the other side of the king. The correct method of castling involves
touching the king first. Technically, if you touch the rook first, you must move
that piece and only it. Avoid fights and always castle by moving the king first!
(For more on chess etiquette, flip to Chapter 15.)
Now that you know what castling looks like, you need to be aware that this
move isn’t always legal. Many a complaint has been made regarding this
technicality!
When you can’t castle
You can’t castle in any of the following situations:
⻬ If another piece is between the king and rook.
⻬ If the king has already moved.
⻬ If the rook has already moved (however, you may be able to castle by
using the other rook).
⻬ When in check.
⻬ If the king must pass through a square controlled by the opponent. You
can’t castle through check.
Chapter 10: Making Special Moves
Even champions can forget
Even the best players get confused sometimes.
Viktor Korchnoi (1931–) was a leading contender for the world championship title for
nearly two decades beginning in the 1970s. But
during one tournament game, he moved his
king, later on moved the king back to its original
square, and still later castled! Neither he nor his
opponent noticed the illegal move!
When you can castle
You can castle even if any of the following are true:
⻬ The rook is under attack.
⻬ The rook (but not the king) must pass though a square controlled by the
opponent.
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Part III
Game Time:
Putting Your Chess
Foot Forward
I
In this part . . .
n this part, I help you get your game going. From
choosing a strategy that works to diving headfirst into
the opening of the game, everything you need to know to
get started is in these chapters. I also discuss the middlegame, where combat is at its most fierce, and the endgame,
so you can make sure you finish a winner.
Chapter 11
Selecting Your Strategy:
The Principles of Play
In This Chapter
䊳 Centralizing your game
䊳 Trading your pieces with your opponent’s
䊳 Attacking even when outnumbered
䊳 Taking control of the most wanted squares
䊳 Preventing your opponent’s pawns from moving forward
S
ometime after I first started playing tournament chess, a friend of mine
occasionally walked up to me during his own tournament game and
lamented, “I’ve got the position I wanted, but I just can’t do anything!”
Everyone who’s ever played chess has felt this way at one time or another
during a game.
The question is what do you do if you can’t pin and win, use a fork, or find a
mating pattern? The answer becomes clearer as you develop your knowledge
of positional play. Even if no specific tactics (see Chapter 5) are currently
available to you, you can always develop a strategy.
In fact, tactics don’t simply materialize out of thin air, especially if you’re
engaged at higher levels of play. Tactics spring from a well-developed plan —
a strategy. And in reality, the long-range planning efforts are what set up these
tactical skirmishes so that one side has more opportunity for success than
the other. The great attacking master Rudolf Spielmann (1883–1942) was said
to have claimed that he could make sacrifices just as well as Alexander
Alekhine (who was world champion at the time) could — but just couldn’t
reach the same positions!
Entire volumes have been written about planning in chess. (One of the best
guides, by the way, was written by former world champion Max Euwe and is
called Judgment and Planning in Chess — Random House published it.) This
chapter, therefore, can serve only as an introduction to the topic. But I hope
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
that the chapter, brief as it must be, impresses one thing onto the chess-playing
nodes of your brain: Employing even a little bit of strategy is better than
having no strategy at all up your sleeve — or, as we chess enthusiasts often
say, even a bad plan is better than no plan at all. As you continue to progress,
you’ll find that chess has even deeper subtleties than you’d ever imagined.
This endless process of discovery is at the heart of the game’s appeal.
Aiming for the Center
Not all squares on the chessboard were created equal. The four central
squares, d4, e4, d5, and e5, are the most important in chess (see Figure 11-1).
The squares next to them are the next most important, and so on. Logically,
therefore, the player who controls the center of the board controls the game.
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Figure 11-1:
The center 3
squares
of the 2
chessboard. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Pieces generally increase in power as they come into contact with the center.
Rooks, queens, and bishops can control squares from a distance, but pawns
and knights must move closer to the action in order to be effective. Bringing
pieces to bear on the center is called centralization.
The struggle for the center is the primary theme behind most games’ openings.
I could use just about any opening sequence to demonstrate this concept,
but in this case, I draw your attention to an opening known as the Queen’s
Gambit (see Chapter 6 for more about gambits). In the Queen’s Gambit, both
sides open by advancing the pawns in front of their queens (1. d4 d5; see
Chapter 17 for help deciphering the notation in this chapter), as shown in
Figures 11-2a and 11-2b.
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play
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4
Figure 11-2:
The double 3
queen pawn 2
opening.
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b
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d
e
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g
a
h
b
c
d
e
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g
h
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a
White advances the queen’s bishop pawn (2. c4) to attack the black center
pawn, a move known as the Queen’s Gambit (see Figure 11-3a). Black can
accept the Queen’s Gambit and capture the pawn, but doing so means abandoning the center, because white would then be able to play the e2 pawn to e4.
If black captures the pawn, the opening is called the Queen’s Gambit accepted.
This results in perfectly playable positions, but the Queen’s Gambit declined,
when black doesn’t capture the pawn, is the more usual choice, because it
allows black to retain a foothold in the center. In the Queen’s Gambit declined,
black uses another pawn to support the queen’s pawn and maintain black’s
share of the center (2. ...e6); see Figure 11-3b.
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4
Figure 11-3:
The Queen’s 3
Gambit . . . 2
declined.
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2
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b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
White chooses to develop a knight toward the center (3. Nc3), as shown in
Figure 11-4a. Notice how the knight is now also attacking the black center
pawn. Black, in turn, also develops a knight toward the center in defense of
the attacked pawn (3. ...Nf6); see Figure 11-4b.
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Figure 11-4:
Both white 4
and black
3
get their
knights in on 2
the action.
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h
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a
White develops another piece, this time moving the queen’s bishop out to
attack black’s knight (4. Bg5), as Figure 11-5a shows. The bishop now pins the
black knight to its current position (see Chapter 5 for info on pinning); otherwise, the black queen would be exposed to attack by the foraging bishop.
Because the move by white attacks the center pawn’s defender (the black
knight), it indirectly influences the center. In Figure 11-5b, black breaks the pin
by developing the king’s bishop (4. ...Be7), which now defends the queen. This
move enables the knight to again concentrate solely on defending the queen’s
pawn, although a slight difference in position is already evident: The white
bishop is still attacking, and the black bishop is now defending. These positions
mean that the white bishop is more aggressively posted and can still influence
the center by capturing the knight — but the black bishop has no such option.
Figure 11-5:
The white
bishop
moves out
to attack, so
the black
bishop steps
in to defend.
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Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play
In the next series of figures, the two sides move with an eye toward controlling
the center. White advances a pawn (5. e3), paving the way to centralize the
king’s bishop — see Figure 11-6a. Black develops the remaining knight in support of the one under attack (5. ...Nd7), as shown in Figure 11-6b. If white now
chooses to capture the black knight with the queen’s bishop, the other black
knight can in turn capture the bishop and still defend the queen’s pawn — so
white would accomplish nothing by exchanging pieces.
Figure 11-6:
The white
pawn
makes way
for the
bishop, but
the black
knight
defends
its twin.
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White develops the remaining knight toward the center (6. Nf3); see Figure
11-7a. Black responds by castling (6. ...0-0), as shown in Figure 11-7b. Castling
safeguards the black king and prepares the way for the rook to move toward
the center. (For details on castling, jump back to Chapter 10, where I explain
some special chess moves.)
Figure 11-7:
White
develops
the last
lonely
knight, and
the black
king and
rook castle.
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White develops the king’s bishop (7. Bd3) and prepares to castle the king
with the king’s rook — see Figure 11-8a. Black advances the queen’s bishop
pawn to support the center pawn once more (7. ...c6); see Figure 11-8b.
Figure 11-8:
White
prepares to
castle, while
black loads
up the
support for
its center
pawn.
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h
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The placement of pieces on the board now reflects a classic position in the
Queen’s Gambit declined. Black has staked out a foothold in the center and
has developed several pieces with the aim of maintaining this hold on the
center. White has developed pieces more aggressively by attacking the black
center. This initiative (white attacking, and black defending against white’s
attack) comes from having the first move and from making each move an
aggressive one.
White enjoys a greater control of the center than black does because of the
better arrangement of the white pieces. (In chess terms, these pieces are
more centralized than black’s.) This centralization has already left its mark on
the position. Notice how white’s light-square bishop has much more freedom
than black’s light-square bishop. This additional freedom of movement is a
positional advantage. A positional advantage isn’t the same as a material
advantage or an advantage in pawn structure. (See Chapter 3 for a discussion
of chess elements.) This type of advantage provides a player with a more
subtle edge than other advantages and could evaporate quickly as a result of
inexact play. White can’t force the win of material or ruin black’s pawn structure and must now think in terms of forming a strategic plan that can maintain and even increase the positional advantage.
White normally continues by castling and then by centralizing the queen and
rooks. Black wants to centralize these pieces, too, but is going to have a more
difficult time doing so because of the cramped position of its pieces. White
would then try to create a weakness, such as a backwards pawn (see
Chapter 3), in the black position and exploit that weakness.
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play
The Exchange
An odd custom in chess refers to a certain trade
of pieces as The Exchange. (Notice that old
hands at the game always capitalize The when
referring to this maneuver.) The Exchange
occurs whenever one side trades a knight or a
bishop for a rook. In case you’re wondering, this
exchange is considered odd, because chess
players usually speak of exchanging pieces of
equal value (see Chapter 3 for a table of piece
values). You hear people say things such as,
“I’ll be okay if I can force the exchange of
queens.” The rook, however, is worth far more
than either the bishop or knight and represents
a material gain or loss for one side or the other
side, depending on who captures the other
player’s rook.
Nevertheless, this seeming uneven exchange
occurs so often in chess that players routinely
call this trade The Exchange, even if the term
doesn’t seem to make sense. You may hear
players say, “I lost (or won) The Exchange.” All
experienced chess players know what that
statement means. If you intentionally give up a
rook for a bishop or knight, for whatever reason,
you’re justified in saying, “I sacrificed The
Exchange,” or as experienced players more
typically phrase it, “I sac’d The Exchange.”
Exchanging Pieces
If one player captures a piece and the other player then captures the piece that
first attacked, the pieces are said to have been exchanged. Knowing exactly
when to exchange and when not to exchange pieces is often difficult, even for
seasoned veterans. Positional understanding (the strategic knowledge in chess
as opposed to the tactical knowledge) gives you the ability to determine
whether an exchange is advantageous to you. Just remember not to exchange
pieces just because you can. Exchange only if you have a good reason.
As your positional sense develops, you come to better understand that you
shouldn’t exchange bishops for knights — unless you have a good reason to
do so (such as winning material, time, or a key square). Two bishops together
can cover the entire board, but one alone can cover only half the board. Bishops
may also become more powerful as the endgame approaches because they
can cover more of a relatively clear board than a knight can.
Yet, in many master games, one player does, in fact, trade a bishop for a
knight. Why this seeming contradiction? Although exchanging a bishop for a
knight for no reason is a mistake, many valid reasons actually may exist for
making the exchange:
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⻬ It wins material or cripples the pawn structure at the same time (see
Chapter 3).
⻬ The knight is occupying a key square, and removing the piece is
necessary.
⻬ The exchange results in a lead in development in your favor (meaning a
gain in time).
Generally, the cramped side seeks exchanges, and the freer side seeks to
avoid them. Exchanges ease the burden of defense, because such exchanges
leave fewer attacking pieces on the board and decrease the likelihood of
defending pieces tripping over one another.
Doing More with Less:
The Minority Attack
One particular strategy that players often use in the Queen’s Gambit declined
is so common and so effective as to deserve a name all to itself — the minority
attack. (Refer to the “Aiming for the Center” section for more on the Queen’s
Gambit declined.)
The minority attack derives its name from a pawn advance on one side of the
board. Two pawns advance to attack three pawns. The idea is to exchange
two for two and leave the opponent’s remaining pawn unsupported and
weak. Then pieces are used to attack the pawn and force the other side to
use pieces in its defense. In this way, one side is constantly aggressive, and
the other is passive. In theory, the attacker must eventually be able to outmaneuver the defender.
The minority attack may result from a position such as the one shown in
Figure 11-9.
The advance of the white pawns has created a dilemma for black. If black
captures the white pawns, the remaining black queenside pawn is isolated
and weak. If black lets white’s pawn capture one of its pawns, black is left
with a backward pawn (after 1. bxc6 bxc6) that white can then attack (see
Figure 11-10). See Chapter 3 for more on backwards pawns.
The minority attack is an example of a strategy in action. White doesn’t try to
immediately attack the well-defended black king but rather sets its sight on
the intermediate goal of provoking a pawn weakness.
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play
8
7
6
5
These two white pawns are
advancing to attack three
enemy pawns.
4
3
Figure 11-9:
The minority 2
attack. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
8
7
6
After an exchange of pawns,
black is left with a backwards
pawn guarded by a bishop — who
would rather be doing more
important things.
5
4
Figure 11-10:
Black is left 3
with a
backward 2
pawn. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
You may think that creating a pawn weakness is a rather wimpy goal, but
because black doesn’t want to lose the pawn (which would cause a deficiency
in material, an element I explain in Chapter 3), black may become passive in
its defense. At that time, tactical opportunities may appear for the aggressor,
as if by magic. The successful implementation of a strategy almost always
results in favorable tactics.
This idea is a lesson in life as well as in chess: Postpone immediate gratification. The beginner may attempt a brutal attack against his opponent’s pieces
to attempt an early checkmate. A master, however, postpones this immediate
gratification (because experience shows that such an immediate course
rarely works) and instead puts in the necessary time and effort to set up
checkmate for later.
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Good knight versus bad bishop
A well-executed strategy may result in only a
very subtle advantage. One way of exploiting a
positional advantage, for example, may be to
enter an ending with the better (more aggressive) minor piece or with the superior (more
aggressive) king position. The classic example
of a superior piece ending is that of the “good
knight” versus the “bad bishop.” (I like this
ending because it’s counterintuitive.)
Bishops and knights are generally considered
equal in value through most of the game, but
bishops are quite often more powerful than
knights in the endgame. This advantage comes
because bishops may effortlessly roam the
board from side to side, while knights must furiously hop around here and there to accomplish
the same thing.
Chess masters can often sense if one or the
other piece is better suited to a particular
endgame. Although masters may prefer the
bishop, all things being even (which, of course,
they never are), cases may exist where the
same players would opt for the knight if given
the choice. If, for example, the bishop is constrained from moving freely by pawns on the
same colored squares, that piece may have less
mobility than the knight. The knight, able to hop
from white squares to black and back again
with ease, taunts the poor bishop who remains
in chains.
The “good” knight in such a case can almost
always outplay the “bad” bishop and force the
win of material. Often the player with the bad
bishop runs out of good moves and is forced to
play a bad one (as chess doesn’t allow a player
to pass but requires a move every turn). If compelled to make a move when all moves are bad,
the player faces what chess players call the
German word Zugzwang. (There we go showing off our worldliness again.) Experienced
chess players derive a peculiar joy from putting
their opponents in Zugzwang. The situation is
one of the few times you can be happy that it
isn’t your turn to move!
Controlling Key Squares to
Lock Up an Advantage
Sometimes the positional struggle in chess revolves around what chess players call a key square (generally an outpost for further invasion). The attacker
desires control of this square, and the defender disputes that control.
The control and eventual occupation of the square by the attacking side generally leads to a superior placement of the attacking pieces. The defender drifts
into passivity by merely guarding against the opponent’s threats. Eventually
the defender may not be able to successfully counter the attacker’s maneuvers.
Chess players often refer to a key square as a strategic outpost. Knights love to
occupy these outposts. Many games have been won by creating an outpost in
enemy territory and then sinking a knight onto that square!
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play
One important point to remember is that you should almost always use
pieces rather than pawns to occupy key squares. Generally, the pawn isn’t
mobile enough to exploit its advantageous position.
The pawn structure depicted in the following example may arise out of the
Sicilian Defense (see Chapter 12) and is characterized by a fight for the key
square, which is marked by an X in Figure 11-11. Black has a backward pawn
and wants to advance and exchange the pawn for a white pawn. White wants
to place a piece on that square and block black’s potential pawn advance.
8
7
6
x
5
4
3
Figure 11-11:
X marks the 2
key square.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Now I add a knight on d5 for white (see Figure 11-12) in order to show how a
piece may be used to occupy and secure a key square. Notice how the knight
adds to white’s control of the key square. If black can’t dispute the point with a
piece of equal value to the knight, white moves the knight to the key square,
and that piece becomes a bone in black’s throat for the rest of the game.
8
7
6
x
5
4
Figure 11-12:
Controlling 3
a key
square with 2
a piece.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
In Figure 11-13a, black now has a bishop in play, but the bishop is on the
wrong-colored square. Black’s bishop, therefore, can never contest the key
square and can’t support the advance of black’s backwards pawn. The pawn
will stay in the bishop’s way for the foreseeable future. If black had a lightsquare bishop, however, black could move that bishop into position to fight
for the key square (see Figure 11-13b).
8
8
7
7
6
6
x
5
x
5
4
Figure 11-13: 4
An unhelpful
3
bishop and
a superhero 2
bishop.
1
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
Now, if white occupies the key square with the knight, black can simply capture the knight with the bishop. White then captures the bishop (exd5), and
the value of the key square drops because of the pawn’s restricted mobility
(see Figure 11-14).
8
7
Figure 11-14:
The white
pawn
occupies
the key
square, and
the square’s
value
plummets.
6
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 11: Selecting Your Strategy: The Principles of Play
If you add both sides’ queens to the equation, however, you can see that this
setup, too, may change matters (see Figure 11-15). As long as white can keep
a piece on the key square, the backwards black pawn will be a weakness.
Now white can move the knight to the key square, and should black capture
the knight with its bishop, white can recapture that square with the queen
instead of the pawn (1. Nd5 Bxd5, 2. Qxd5). By keeping control of the key
square, white thus preserves a slight advantage in position.
8
7
6
x
5
4
Figure 11-15:
Pieces, not 3
pawns,
belong on 2
key squares. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Holding Back the Pawns: The Blockade
If you know even a little bit about chess, you know that pawns are valuable
little soldiers. One strategy you can employ is to restrain pawn advances,
which you can do well by blocking them with pieces. (This move is called a
blockade.) Contrary to what you may first think, these pieces aren’t wasting
time keeping a lowly pawn in check, because such blockading pieces often
find themselves well posted for future attacks and unassailable from enemy
counterattacks.
Figure 11-16 shows a passed pawn on d5. As described in Chapter 3, an isolated pawn (which may or may not be passed) may be weak because that
pawn lacks the support of its peers. Therefore, the strategically correct way
of combating an isolated pawn is to blockade it.
According to conventional wisdom since Nimzowitsch (1886–1935), simply
controlling the square in front of the pawn isn’t enough; rather, you must
occupy that square. This is the difference between merely restraining a
pawn’s advance (by controlling the square with pieces) and blockading the
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
pawn (physically preventing it from moving). The knight is the ideal blockader, because that piece retains its powers even while doing guard duty and
can’t easily be driven off. The correct move (1. Nd4), in which white moves
the knight to occupy the square in front of the black pawn, is now easy to
understand (see Figure 11-17).
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 11-16:
A passed 2
pawn. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Notice how the mobility of the knight on d4 is unimpaired. The pawn’s mobility, on the other hand, has been brought to a screeching halt. If you can impair
your opponent’s mobility without reducing your own, your chances of eventually outmaneuvering your opponent increase.
8
7
Figure 11-17:
The black
pawn on
d5 can’t
advance —
it’s in jail
and not
merely
under police
watch!
6
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 12
Coming on Strong in the Opening
In This Chapter
䊳 Getting your pieces to all the best places
䊳 Putting the pressure on your opponent
䊳 Setting out on a good foot
䊳 Stealing famous moves
I
n chess, quicker isn’t necessarily better. If you’re trying to checkmate your
opponent as fast as possible, you’re almost certain to make inferior moves
in the opening phase of the game. If you reach for the brass ring too early in
the game, you’re bound to fall off your knight . . . er, horse. Rather, if you use
your opening moves to rapidly deploy your pieces to good squares, your ultimate goal of checkmate eventually comes within your grasp.
At the highest levels of chess, knowing tons of opening variations is
extremely important. Entire volumes are available describing even some of
the most obscure chess openings. Rest assured, however, that for the vast
majority of chess players, such intense knowledge isn’t at all necessary to
compete — and to compete well.
Instead of simply memorizing the opening moves or suggestions of masters
(which is referred to as opening theory), you need to understand some general principles of opening play, which I describe and name for you in this
chapter. After you grasp these principles, you can play reasonably well in this
phase of the game.
If you start out in one opening but then find yourself in another, you’ve transposed into the second opening. Many opening systems offer such possibilities,
and transposing from one opening to another is a subtle nuance that you often
find at the higher levels of play. Good chess players may try to fool you into
playing an inferior variation of one opening by transposing into it from another.
Transposing isn’t all that important, however, for recreational players.
Certainly, on occasion, you’re still going to make mistakes or get caught in
inferior positions, which chess players call traps, but making errors is how
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
you gain experience in the game. No one attains master status in chess without getting a few bloody noses. You make far more progress by learning why
you got the worst of a particular opening than by spending hours of study
time beforehand hoping to avoid that fate.
Developing Your Pieces
The first lesson you must learn on the road to improving your game is to get
your priorities straight. Not only should you not try to checkmate your opponent in the opening, but also you shouldn’t even try to win material (see
Chapter 3 for more on material). Save both objectives for later in the game.
The primary objective of the opening is the rapid deployment of your pieces
to their optimal posts. You shouldn’t put a piece on a good square, however,
if that piece can easily be driven away by your opponent’s pieces, so getting
your pieces not only on good squares, but also on safe squares, is critical to
your opening game. (For details on controlling key squares, see Chapter 11.)
The rapid mobilization of pieces is called development. Development isn’t
considered complete until the knights, bishops, queens, and rooks are moved
off their original squares. Normally, getting the knights, bishops, and queen
off the back rank is important as well. Rooks may be effective in fighting from
their starting rank, but the other pieces usually increase in power only as
they move toward the center.
Controlling the center
As I describe in Chapter 3, control of the center and centralization of your
pieces are critical objectives in a chess game. The pieces generally increase
in power as they’re centralized. In the opening phase, you want to maximize
the power of the pieces in a minimal amount of time. Moving one piece three
times to position it on the best square doesn’t help much if, in the meantime,
your other pieces languish on their original squares. So the key is focusing on
not just one piece, but them all.
Watching your opponent
Just as important as developing quickly is preventing your opponent’s development. Some otherwise strange-looking moves can be explained only in this
way. If you waste two moves to force your opponent to waste three, well,
those moves weren’t wasted after all!
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
Don’t get so caught up in your plans that you forget about your opponent’s
moves. Just as you are, your opponent is trying to interfere with your development while developing his or her own pieces — at your expense.
Following basic principles
As you become familiar with the game, you begin to pick up on a few basic
principles of opening play not only from your own experiences, but also from
those of other players.
Many such principles are just guidelines — don’t think you’re bound by
them. If, for example, your opponent slips up and gives you the opportunity
to deliver checkmate, do so! Don’t worry that such a move develops your
queen too early!
⻬ Place the pieces where they can develop their greatest power, and do so
as efficiently as possible.
⻬ If other pieces remain undeveloped, don’t move an already developed
piece unless you have a strong reason for doing so.
⻬ Avoid putting pieces on squares where they can be driven off by moves
that also contribute to the development of enemy pieces and pawns.
⻬ Keep pawn moves in the opening game to a minimum; they serve only as
an aid to the development of your pieces and as a means of fighting for
the center.
Attacking Your Opponent’s Pieces
After you discover what it means to develop your pieces, the question that
naturally follows is “What’s the big deal about a lead in development?” How
can you translate a lead in development into a more permanent advantage,
such as a material edge or a superior pawn structure?
The simple answer is — attack! If you have a lead in development and fail
to attack, you’re almost certainly going to see your advantage slip through
your fingers.
If you enjoy a lead in development, then open up the game. You want open
files and diagonals leading to your opponent’s vulnerable points. You want
to use these open lines to move your pieces to increasingly more aggressive
locations. Ideally, you want to combine your development with strong threats
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to your opponent, such as an attack on an undefended piece. If you can
develop a piece and simultaneously threaten an enemy piece (or pieces!), your
opponent may lose additional time scurrying to defend against your attack.
Your pieces become increasingly threatening, and the defender’s, increasingly
passive. Then comes the time to try to win material or play for checkmate.
The player who’s ahead in development seeks to open up lines of attack; the
player who’s behind in development seeks to keep those lines closed. If you
can combine a superior development with open lines of attack, you quickly
find that whatever tactics you employ seem to always work out in your favor.
On the other hand, if those lines remain closed, you soon find that your
advantage in development isn’t nearly so great an asset and that your work is
really cut out for you in winning the game.
Getting Ahead with Your Opening Moves
In this section, you examine some alternative first moves; see whether you
can understand why these moves are good or not so good from the twin perspectives of development and control of the center.
Taking note of good opening moves
Consider the most common first move in all of chessdom. By advancing the
pawn in front of the white king two squares (1. e4; see Chapter 17 for info on
chess notation), white occupies one central square and attacks another. The
attacked square is indicated by an X in Figure 12-1. (The pawn could, of
course, attack the other square to its right, but I’m talking about central
squares here.)
8
7
6
x
5
Figure 12-1: 4
Advancing 3
the pawn
in front of 2
the king.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
From the perspective of control of the center, this move is obviously a useful
one. Is the move also useful, however, in aiding the development of your
pieces? Yes — absolutely. Notice how the pawn’s advance opens a line for the
bishop’s development. (The bishop’s line of development is indicated by Xs
in Figure 12-2a.) The bishop, however, isn’t the only piece that now enjoys an
open line. What about the queen? The queen also has a line open for its
development (see Figure 12-2b). So white’s opening move proves useful not
only for controlling the center but also for developing pieces. No wonder this
particular opening move is so popular.
8
8
7
7
Figure 12-2: 6
The king’s 5
x
pawn move
4
opens two
lines of 3
develop- 2
ment.
6
x
5
x
4
x
3
x
x
2
x
x
x
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
The next example looks at the second most popular opening move in chess:
moving the queen’s pawn forward two squares (1. d4); see Figure 12-3. By
moving this pawn, white accomplishes pretty much the same thing as in the
preceding example. Notice how the pawn occupies one central square and
attacks another, which is marked with an X. In terms of controlling the center,
the moves in these two examples are pretty interchangeable.
8
7
6
x
5
4
Figure 12-3: 3
The queen’s
pawn steps 2
forward.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
In terms of development, these moves are also very similar. With the move of
the queen’s pawn, a diagonal path opens up for a bishop, just as in the first
example (see Figure 12-4a). But this time, the queen doesn’t have an open
diagonal — only a couple of squares along the file (see Figure 12-4b). The initial advance of the queen’s pawn, therefore, doesn’t do quite as much for
development as does the initial advance of the king’s pawn.
8
8
7
7
6
5
Figure 12-4:
A path 4
clears for
3
the bishop
but not for 2
the queen.
1
x
x
x
x
x
6
5
4
x
x
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
a
d
e
f
g
h
b
Resorting to the not-as-good
opening moves
If you keep going with opening possibilities for white, you see that no other
move accomplishes quite as much as the first two choices in the preceding
section.
The move shown in the next example — advancing the queen’s bishop pawn
forward two squares (1. c4) — is fairly popular at all levels of tournament play.
The pawn attacks a central square (marked by X) without occupying one (see
Figure 12-5a). Although this move opens up a diagonal for the queen (see
Figure 12-5b), it doesn’t help the bishops in any way; experienced chess players, therefore, don’t consider the move quite as strong an opening as the two
choices in the preceding section. And the following example is even weaker.
In the setup shown in Figure 12-6, the king’s bishop pawn also attacks a central square (marked by X ), but no other piece is helped by this advance. In
fact, the king’s safety is called into question because a diagonal is now open
that black may use as a path to attack the king.
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
8
8
7
7
6
6
x
5
5
4
Figure 12-5: 4
Advancing
3
the queen’s
bishop 2
pawn.
1
x
3
x
2
x
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
8
7
6
x
5
Figure 12-6:
The king’s
bishop
pawn steps
into the
limelight.
This pawn has jeopardized
its king's safety!
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Salvaging a weak opening move
Pawn moves that are farther from the center of the board are generally very
weak. However, one exception is the fianchetto (see Chapter 8), which occurs
whenever you develop the bishop on either flank. This move may seem
strange because at first glance, the single-square advance by the knight pawn
does little in terms of controlling the center (see Figure 12-7a). But this move
is almost invariably followed by the development of the bishop to the square
formerly occupied by the pawn (1. g3 and 2. Bg2, for example). The Xs in
Figure 12-7b show that the bishop is now attacking the key central squares
from a safe distance. This move can open a fairly effective attack but generally
isn’t as difficult to counter as the two moves examined in the earlier section
“Taking note of good opening moves.”
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
Figure 12-7:
The knight
pawn
advances
and the
bishop
develops.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
x
a
b
c
x
x
d
e
x
f
g
h
b
Exploring Common Opening Moves
Listing every chess opening ever used is impossible, but I can at least draw
your attention to some of the more common ones. If you hope to impress
anyone with your lofty knowledge of the game, you should be able to identify
the following openings by name. And if you go to a chess club, you’ll find this
vocabulary very useful in terms of speaking to others. For example, you can
say to your fellow chess lover, “I saw that you played a Sicilian in your last
game. Can you show me how it went?” Needless to say, being able to speak to
others about chess is important.
If you simply follow the basic opening principles described in this chapter,
you’re likely to play a decent game. But if you don’t know the French Defense
from the Spanish game, people may question your chess heritage.
It’s impossible for me to give enough guidance to play the following openings
even passably well in this amount of space. The point of this chapter, then, is
to give you the basic principles of opening play. I don’t recommend memorizing reams of variations, because that would do more harm than good. If you
retain the basic principles, you’ll do well. If you try to remember too many
specific sequences from this book, your learning may suffer.
The hard part about many of the openings’ names is that they’re not always
universally recognized. The Internet didn’t exist 50 years ago, and local customs prevailed regarding naming conventions. Some became universally
known based on a widely read publication or two, and some are still known
by multiple names, depending upon what part of the world you’re in or from.
For example, in the United States, chess players call the following opening
sequence the Ruy Lopez, after the player who popularized it. But in other
parts of the world, the same opening is known more commonly as the
Spanish game, after the country where it became popular.
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
Double king pawn openings
All double king pawn openings begin, naturally, with the advance of both
kings’ pawns two squares (1. e4 e5), as Figure 12-8 shows. Several popular
openings begin in this manner.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 12-8: 3
Double king
pawn 2
moves.
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
Ruy Lopez (the Spanish game)
The Ruy Lopez begins with the mutual advance of the kings’ pawns (refer to
Figure 12-8). White’s next move of a knight to f3 (2. Nf3) attacks black’s e-pawn.
Black’s response, moving a knight to c6 (2. ...Nc6), defends it.(see Figure 12-9a).
White’s next move of the king’s bishop to b5 (3. Bb5) defines the game as a Ruy
Lopez (see Figure 12-9b).
With the Ruy Lopez opening,
this square is contested.
Figure 12-9:
The second
move of the
Ruy Lopez
opening,
followed by
the defining
moment.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
I’ve always liked the logic of this opening. After the pawns move, the white
knight comes out to attack the black pawn. The black knight comes out to
defend it. The white bishop comes out to attack the knight that defends the
pawn. Further play is characterized by the struggle around the control over the
pawn (or more precisely, the square the pawn occupies): White wants to capture it safely. Black wants to maintain it, and white wishes to wrestle it away.
The Scotch
If, after the same opening sequence shown in Figure 12-8, white advances the
queen’s pawn two squares (3. d4) instead of moving the bishop, the opening
is called the Scotch (see Figure 12-10). The name dates back to a correspondence match begun in 1824 between the London and Edinburgh chess clubs.
Curiously, the London team used the opening first, but the Scots liked it so
much that they began using it, too. The Scots won the match, and to the victors go the spoils — and the opening name.
8
7
6
Figure 12-10:
In the
Scotch, the
queen’s
pawn
advances
two
squares.
With the Scotch opening,
immediate pressure is
placed on this pawn.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The idea behind the Scotch is similar to that of the Ruy Lopez: to put pressure on the advanced black center pawn. Moving the d-pawn to d4 is more
direct but often leads to more early exchanges of pieces and pawns, which
ends up reducing white’s attacking chances. Most players today prefer the
Ruy Lopez.
Petroff’s Defense
If, as shown in Figure 12-11, black moves out the king’s knight on the second
turn (2. ...Nf6) — rather than the queen’s knight, as in Figure 12-9a — the
opening becomes Petroff’s Defense, named after a great Russian player of the
19th century.
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
The idea of this defense is different from the preceding two openings. Instead
of defending the attacked pawn, black produces a counterattack against
white’s advanced center pawn.
8
7
6
Figure 12-11:
Petroff’s
Defense:
The king’s
knight steps
forward
on the
second turn.
5
With Petroff's Defense, the
black knight has placed
this pawn under attack.
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
Petroff’s problem
Petroff’s Defense has a well-known trap. It comes about very logically, so
falling into it is very easy. For the starting position, refer to Figure 12-11. The
next logical move by white is to capture the exposed black pawn (3. Nxe5); see
Figure 12-12a. Logically, one would expect black to carry out the same idea —
that is, to capture the exposed white pawn (3. ...Nxe4); see Figure 12-12b.
Figure 12-12:
Black and
white
capture
each other’s
exposed
pawns.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
The problem is that the black king’s file has been opened. This opening
allows white to make a threat that black can’t simply copy. In Figure 12-13a,
white attacks the black knight with the queen (4. Qe2). Black may choose to
move the knight away (4. ...Nf6), as shown in Figure 12-13b.
Figure 12-13:
The white
queen goes
after the
black knight,
and the
knight hops
away.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
If black does move the knight away, white wins the black queen with a discovered check (5. Nc6), as shown in Figure 12-14: The movement of the white
knight lets the white queen check the black king — and the black queen is the
victim of the white knight because black can’t escape check and protect its
queen in one move! (See Chapter 4 for details on check.) Also, black can’t maintain equality by copying the white queen move that was made in Figure 12-13a.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 12-14: 3
Discovered
check does 2
black in. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
Why can’t black just copy what white does? If you set the board as it was in
Figure 12-13a, you see that if black simply copies the white queen’s move
(4. ...Qe7), as shown in Figure 12-15a, then white captures the black knight
(5. Qxe4), simultaneously protecting the white knight; see Figure 12-15b. No
matter how hard black squirms from that point on, white will have a material
advantage.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 12-15:
If the black 4
queen
3
moves, its
knight bites 2
the dust.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
Petroff’s solution
Starting back at the position in Figure 12-12a, black can carry out the basic
idea in another way by attacking the white knight with the queen’s pawn
(3. ...d6); see Figure 12-16.
8
7
6
Figure 12-16:
The black
queen’s
pawn puts
the pressure
on the white
knight.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
Black can force the white knight to retreat (4. Nf3), as Figure 12-17a shows,
and can then capture the white pawn (4. ...Nxe4); see Figure 12-17b.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 12-17: 4
The black
3
knight
tramples the 2
white pawn.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
If white tries the same pin as before (5. Qe2), shown in Figure 12-18a, black
simply answers by bringing out the queen (5. ...Qe7), thus breaking the pin;
see Figure 12-18b. (Flip back to Chapter 5 for more on the pin tactic.) The
game is then even. Just remember to attack the knight before capturing the
pawn, and you should do fine with this defense.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 12-18:
Black’s 4
queen
3
roars in
response to 2
white’s pin.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Philidor’s Defense
If black defends the attacked king’s pawn with the queen’s pawn on the
second turn (2. ...d6) instead of using the queen’s knight, as shown in Figure
12-19, then the opening variation is called Philidor’s Defense (for more about
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
François-André Danican Philidor, see Chapter 19). In this opening, choosing
to defend the attacked pawn with a pawn is a solid defensive strategy — but
a passive one. Note one of the primary drawbacks: Black has locked in the
black dark-square bishop behind the pawn chain. Today, most players prefer
an active defense to a passive one; therefore, Phildor’s Defense is rarely
employed at the highest levels.
8
7
6
Figure 12-19:
Pawn
romance:
The queen’s
pawn
defends the
king’s pawn.
With Philidor's Defense,
black protects this pawn
with another pawn.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Different strokes: Other black replies
Now look at some other replies to white’s first move of the king’s pawn two
squares (1. e4). These are the replies other than a black king’s pawn move
two squares (1. ...e5).
The French Defense
I describe the French Defense (1. e4 e6) in more detail in Chapter 8, but the
basic idea is to fight for the light-colored center squares. The defense is very
solid but has a drawback similar to Philidor’s Defense; in this instance, however, the black light-squared bishop is the one who gets trapped behind the
pawn chain (see Figure 12-20).
The Sicilian Defense
The Sicilian Defense (1. ...c5) is very popular at all levels. In it, a white center
pawn is eventually traded for a black wing (side) pawn, as shown in Figure
12-21, which leads to an imbalance (black would have two center pawns to
white’s one — but white would have compensating advantages in space and
time (see Chapter 3 for details on these elements). The imbalance produces
tension because it’s harder to judge whether black’s advantage outweighs the
other, or vice versa.
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
With the French Defense,
this bishop is trapped.
8
7
6
Figure 12-20:
The black
lightsquared
bishop has
nowhere
to go.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
8
7
6
5
With the Sicilian Defense, white
and black lose these pawns.
4
Figure 12-21: 3
An
immediate 2
imbalance. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The Caro-Kann Defense
The Caro-Kann Defense (1. e4 c6) is also very popular but is considered less
exciting than the Sicilian, because in it, a white center pawn is usually traded
for a black center pawn early on in the game. (Figure 12-22 shows the development of the Caro-Kann.) Black intends to play a pawn to d5 (2. ...d5) in
order to challenge white’s pawn on e4. This trade leads to a roughly balanced
game — solid, but relatively lacking in tension.
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
8
7
With the Caro-Kann Defense,
black moves this pawn first in
order to support an advance
of its pawn on the d-file.
6
5
4
Figure 12-22: 3
White and
black fight 2
over d5. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Alekhine’s Defense
Alekhine’s Defense (1. ...Nf6) is named after the former world chess champion Alexander Alekhine (see Chapter 19). The defense is risky and provocative, so I don’t recommend it for beginners. It’s risky because it allows white
the opportunity to establish a big advantage in space, and it’s provocative
because it dares white to advance the e-pawn another square (2. e5); see
Figure 12-23. From there, the pawn will attack the black knight and force it to
move once again. Black figures that the white center pawn will turn out to be
overextended and subject to later attack. If black’s strategy is successful,
then white’s center pawn formation (whichever one white chooses to set up)
will crumble. If it’s unsuccessful, black will end up cramped and passive.
8
7
6
5
With Alekhine's Defense,
black dares this pawn to
overextend itself.
4
Figure 12-23: 3
An
immediate 2
provocation. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
Ladies first: The double
queen pawn opening
The other most common first move for white is to advance the queen’s pawn
two squares (1. d4). If black responds the same way (1. ...d5), as shown in
Figure 12-24, then you have a double queen pawn game. For right now, just
concentrate on identifying openings by their names. Don’t worry about the
advanced strategies behind them.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 12-24: 3
Double
queen pawn 2
moves. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The Queen’s Gambit
The most usual opening that begins with double queen pawn moves is the
Queen’s Gambit (1. d4 d5 2. c4); see Figure 12-25. The Queen’s Gambit, which
is the offer of the c-pawn for capture, can be accepted or declined, and I
cover both alternatives in Chapter 11, in the section on aiming for the center.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 12-25:
The Queen’s 2
Gambit.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
With the Queen’s Gambit opening in Figure 12-25, the center black pawn must
decide whether to accept or decline the gambit. Figure 12-26a shows you the
accepted version (2. ...dxc4), and Figure 12-26b illustrates the declined version (2. ...e6) (that is, black refuses to take the white pawn on the c-file and
instead defends the d-pawn with the e-pawn).
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 12-26:
The Queen’s 4
Gambit,
3
accepted
and 2
rejected.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
The Slav
The Slav (1. d4 d5 2. c4 c6) was popularized by the Russian grandmaster
Mikhail Ivanovich Chigorin in the late 19th century. The opening is still a
prime weapon today, even in the highest levels of competition. In it, black
defends the d-pawn with the c-pawn without blocking its light-square bishop
(see Figure 12-27).
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 12-27:
The Slav 2
opening. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
Cowboys and Indian Defenses
The other most common reply to white’s first move of the queen’s pawn is to
move out the king’s knight (1. ...Nf6), as shown in Figure 12-28. This move
leads to what is usually referred to as the Indian Defenses, both of which are
considered very reliable today. This naming convention comes from the precursor to chess, chaturanga, which originated in India during or before the
seventh century AD. A game of chaturanga commonly opened with the development of a bishop on the wing. (In chess, this wing development is called a
fianchetto, which I describe in Chapter 9.) Black makes the knight move first in
order to prevent white from establishing a center pawn duo (see Chapter 3)
by advancing the king’s pawn two squares. This move is followed by a
fianchetto on either wing.
You’re better off playing openings that are a bit easier, such as the double
queen pawn game, when you’re starting out, graduating to the Indian
Defenses after you gain more experience.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 12-28:
The pre- 3
cursor to
the Indian 2
Defenses. 1
By moving its knight first,
black prevents this pawn from
advancing two squares.
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The King’s Indian
In the King’s Indian, the bishop is fianchettoed on the kingside (see Figure
12-29). Black usually castles quickly (see Chapter 9 for more on castling) and
only then starts to attack white’s center pawns with his own. This is an
extremely popular way to combat the queen’s pawn opening but is also a
very complicated one.
Chapter 12: Coming on Strong in the Opening
With the King's Indian, black
develops this bishop and
prepares to castle.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 12-29:
The King’s 2
Indian. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
The Queen’s Indian
In the Queen’s Indian, the bishop is fianchettoed on the queenside (see Figure
12-30). The strategy is fairly similar to the King’s Indian. Black tries to attack
the white center only after castling. The bishops attack the center from the
safety of their fianchettoed positions, which helps black accomplish this
counterattack.
With the Queen's Indian, black
develops this bishop first to
prepare for an eventual castling
to the queenside — all before
attacking the center.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 12-30:
The Queen’s 2
Indian. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
Weird opening names
Although most of the names given to chess
openings make a good deal of sense because
they’re named after a person or place, some
opening names have far less mundane origins.
Be forewarned that these names are far from
universally recognized, but most players know
what you mean if you refer to any of these three
openings:
⻬ The Dragon
⻬ The Orangutan
⻬ The Hedgehog
Less familiar but still generally understood are
these openings:
⻬ The Vulture
⻬ The Rat
⻬ The Kangaroo
One chess opening is even called the Woozle,
but don’t ask me why. In the United States,
chess players call another opening the Fried
Liver Attack — so you see, just about anything
goes! To get credit for a new opening system,
you must play that opening in a major tournament or publish your analysis to back up your
claim. Don’t try too hard, however, because
coming up with something no one has tried
before is very, very hard these days.
A good source of weird opening names is the
book Unorthodox Openings by Joel Benjamin
and Eric Schiller (published by Collier Books).
Chapter 13
Making Headway during
the Middlegame
In This Chapter
䊳 Creating a plan with some guiding points and creativity
䊳 Knowing when to attack — and how to get the most out of it
T
he opening phase of a chess game is the place for researchers with
glasses and pocket protectors (no offense), but the middlegame is the
province of swashbucklers, mad dogs, and Englishmen. Openings and endings may involve some tactics, but middlegames are replete with tactics
galore. (Need a quick refresher on tactics? Flip back to Chapter 5.) Don’t
forget, however, that good tactics come from good plans. So in this chapter,
I provide some details to help you in your tactical planning.
When You Reach the Middlegame . . .
The middlegame commences after the pieces are developed and the opening
phase of the game ends. You don’t have an arsenal of theory for use in the
middlegame as you do in the openings and endings. The absence of any vast
repository of standardized middlegame theory means that you’re usually on
your own during this phase of play — but it also means that this part of the
game is where your own personal creativity can shine through the most.
The middlegame is extremely difficult to play well. Quite often, players who
are otherwise quite good at the game find themselves unable to navigate
these murky waters adequately. They may know the opening principles and
understand where to put their pieces initially, but after those moves, they’re
at a loss as to what to do next.
But be of good cheer — especially if you find yourself among the ranks of the
middlegame-challenged — for the middlegame, too, has its own governing
principles to guide your creative play. If you bone up on your tactics and stick
to these principles, you can play this phase of the game quite well indeed.
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
I could say many more things about the middlegame. The best teacher, however, is experience. You can gain a great deal of experience by playing over
the games of the masters, but you find no better way to learn how to navigate
a successful middlegame than simply to play several yourself. My best advice
is to read the rest of this chapter, where you discover how to formulate a
plan for your game and gather some tips for the road on attacking your opponent in the most effective way possible through this aggressive phase of the
chess battle. After you’ve tucked the fundamentals under your hat, scrounge
up an opponent, play an opening of your choosing (refer to Chapter 11), and
practice formulating and implementing your middlegame strategies.
Formulating a Middlegame Plan
Chess isn’t a game that you can easily reduce to the simple sum of its parts.
You may understand each element in isolation but still struggle to put the
total package together or come to the correct understanding of any given
position. Nevertheless, in the middlegame, you must be able to judge a
position (the arrangement of the pieces on the board) correctly — or at least
adequately — before you can hope to formulate the correct plan. If you can’t
plan well in chess, you end up aimlessly shuffling pieces about, hoping for a
glaring error from your opponent. Players who fall into this nonplanner category are referred to in chess circles as woodpushers. The moral? Don’t be a
woodpusher.
Consider the governing principles in the following sections.
Evaluate the position
To formulate a plan, you must first evaluate the position on the board, and
to be successful, the plan must correspond to the demands of the position.
If your pieces and pawns are poised to attack on the kingside, for example,
then that is where you must attack.
Every position must be judged on its own merits. The rules of chess have so
many exceptions that a blind adherence to any formula is doomed to failure.
Some players wail that no justice is to be found in chess because they can be
doing everything right according to the general guiding principles and still
lose. The more mature among us refer to “the equalizing injustice of chess,”
by which we mean that the exception that spoils your plan today may be the
exception that spoils your opponent’s plan tomorrow.
Chapter 13: Making Headway during the Middlegame
In his book Modern Chess Strategy (published by Dover), Ludek Pachman puts
forth the following factors to consider in evaluating any certain position:
⻬ The material relationship — that is, the material equality or the material
superiority of either side
⻬ The power of the individual pieces
⻬ The quality of the individual pawns — that is, the pawn structure (see
Chapter 3)
⻬ The position of the pawns — that is, the pawn formation (see Chapter 8)
⻬ King safety
⻬ The cooperation among the pieces and pawns
The elements of piece mobility and king safety take priority in the middlegame. The rapid mobilization of your forces enables you to attack your
opponent, and if you can induce a weakness in the enemy king’s position,
you may be able to win material or play directly for checkmate. Even if your
opponent safeguards the king, you still may be able to force some other sort
of concession, which is usually enough to pave the road to victory.
Pieces can move around quite quickly and change the nature of the game.
Plans may need to be adopted or dropped if this type of change occurs. You
can’t stick to a plan that your opponent has thwarted but must readjust yourself to the new position instead. This sort of thing may occur many times in a
single game.
Take advantage of the pawn structure
The pawns are less mobile than the pieces, so you can more readily fix
the placement of pawns. The conclusion, therefore, is that the essential characteristic of the pawn formation (mobile, locked, and so on — see Chapter 8
for more on pawn formations) and structure (doubled, isolated, and so on, see
Chapter 3 for more on pawn structures) during the middlegame is your most
trustworthy guide to the feasibility — and your adoption — of any particular
plan.
I can think of no better illustration of the idea of the preeminence of pawn
structure than the example shown in the following series of figures. This example comes from a composition written by W. E. Rudolph in 1912 and published
in the French chess journal La Stratégie. (Positions that are constructed by
an individual are called compositions to distinguish them from positions that
happen to occur in actual play.) I first encountered the composition in the
classic work Pawn Power in Chess, by Hans Kmoch (published by Dover).
217
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
In Figure 13-1, black is way ahead in material — but the position is inevitably
a draw! Because they’re scenarios created by an individual, compositions
begin with a declaration of whose turn it is to move and what the desired outcome is. In this case, white gets to move and can force a draw despite black’s
material advantage. The pawn formation is the key to finding the proper plan.
White can lock it up tight.
8
7
6
Figure 13-1:
Black is
ahead in
material, but
white has
the right
plan.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
White first moves the light-square bishop up from the first rank to check
black’s king (1. Ba4+; see Chapter 17 for the scoop on chess notation), as
shown in Figure 13-2a. Black has no choice except to capture the checking
bishop with the king (1. ...Kxb4); see Figure 13-2b. Otherwise, white has a
perpetual check on the black king (the bishop checks from the fourth rank,
then from the third, then from the fourth, and so on, because the black king
can only toggle back and forth between b5 and c4).
Figure 13-2:
The white
bishop
sacrifices
himself to
the black
king.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 13: Making Headway during the Middlegame
What follows next is as amusing as it is instructive. On each turn, white
advances a pawn to check the king. White must carry out the plan in precisely the right order, or black will open an escape valve for its king. However,
if white faithfully carries out the plan, black has no choice but to go along for
the ride, because the black king only has one legal move on each turn. White
delivers check by moving the b2 pawn to b3 (2. b3+), as Figure 13-3a shows,
and the black king must move to the only available square, b5 (2. ...Kb5); see
Figure 13-3b.
Figure 13-3:
The lowly
white pawn
puts black in
check,
forcing
black to
flee.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
a
e
f
g
h
b
White uses the exact same idea in Figure 13-4a. The pawn on c3 moves to c4
(3. c4+) and again checks the harassed black king, who has only one safe
square to which he can move, c6 (3. ...Kc6); see Figure 13-4b.
Figure 13-4:
Another
white pawn
steps in,
making the
black king
back off
again.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
For a third time, white uses a pawn to check the black king (4. d5+), moving
the d4 pawn to d5 (see Figure 13-5a), and the black king moves to the only
square available to him, d7 (4. ...Kd7); see Figure 13-5b.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 13-5:
A third 4
white pawn
pushes 3
back the 2
black king.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
One last time, white gives check with a pawn (5. e6+) by moving the e5 pawn
to e6 (see Figure 13-6a). Now, the black king finally has some choice as to
where to move, but this new freedom doesn’t matter anymore. Black can take
the bishop (5. ...Kxd8), as shown in Figure 13-6b, or not — but black can
never break through the fortress of pawns covering the board, despite being
two rooks and a bishop to the advantage!
Figure 13-6:
White
creates a
fortress of
pawns,
blocking the
black king
and all the
other black
pieces.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 13: Making Headway during the Middlegame
White seals the position with a final pawn move from f4 to f5 (6. f5); see
Figure 13-7. Neither side can cross the neutral zone staked out by the reverse
pawn wedges, so the game ends in a draw! As you can see, sometimes material advantage just doesn’t matter.
8
7
Figure 13-7:
White has
effectively
sealed
black’s
pawn
structure,
forcing a
draw.
6
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Look for ways to use a minority attack
In a real game of chess, the pawns aren’t quite as dominant as in the preceding section, but they do influence the placement of the pieces and the selection of plans. In Chapter 11, I examine the ins and outs of the plan called the
minority attack, which is a more typical example of the pawn’s influence on
the middlegame. The minority attack is an advance of one or more pawns on a
wing, where the opponent holds the majority. The following example shows
this plan in practice.
The position shown in Figure 13-8a occurred in a game between Vasily Smyslov,
who played white, and Yuri Averbakh in the great Zurich tournament of 1953. In
the game, Smyslov wanted to use the minority attack by advancing his queenside pawns and exchanging them for black’s, but Averbakh, by moving his a-file
pawn forward to a5 (1. ...a5), didn’t allow it (see Figure 13-8b). By grabbing
more space on the queenside before white could, black prevented white’s original plan and forced him to come up with a different one. From this point on,
black must then respond to the new plan and to the next one, and the next one,
if need be. If white makes a mistake, however, the initiative may pass to black,
and then it would be white’s turn to try and thwart black’s plans.
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Figure 13-8:
White
hopes to
use the
minority
attack, but
black
thwarts the
plan.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Any time you don’t know what to do in a chess game, just tell yourself to
make a plan — you can achieve many fine victories if you simply evaluate a
position and attempt to come up with the appropriate plan for that position.
Think to yourself something like the following: “I’m going to advance my
pawns and weaken my opponent’s pawns and then attack them with my
pieces.” Decide which move helps you best carry out that plan — and make
that move. After every move (your own and that of your opponent), reevaluate the plan in light of the changed situation. Perhaps the original plan is still
appropriate, but maybe an even better idea occurs to you. Try not to switch
aimlessly back and forth between plans; rather, have a specific reason to
either stick with the plan or change to a new one. If the new idea seems about
the same as the old one, stick with the old one.
Attacking during the Middlegame
Old hands at chess have a saying: If you have a temporary advantage, you
must attack. Otherwise, the advantage usually slips through your fingers.
Attacking is a fundamental part of the game, but you must not attack too
soon, or your effort will peter out ineffectually. You first must build up your
position to the point that launching an attack is warranted — you need to
secure your position and weaken your opponent’s.
You have no hard and fast rules to consider for deciding when to launch an
attack. This ambiguity raises the level of decision making involved in attacks
into an art form. The great geniuses of the game seem to have an intuitive
sense of when to commence an attack and how to punish a premature one
launched by their opponents.
Over time, you figure out when attacks work and when they don’t — and why.
Remember that everyone fears a strong attacker. No one wants to end up on
the wrong side of a brilliant win!
Chapter 13: Making Headway during the Middlegame
Attack types to watch out
for and defend against
Although most games of chess go their own individual route, they almost
always have one thing in common. Attacks can feature different moves by
different pieces, but you can generally sort them into similar categories.
Vladimir Vukovic (1898–1975) wrote a tremendous book on this subject
called, quite naturally, The Art of Attack in Chess. In the book, he adopts the
following classification system for attacks:
⻬ The main action isn’t in fact an attack on the king, but such an attack is
possible in the position.
⻬ A player’s action really does contain a direct threat to the opponent’s
king, but his opponent can stave off this threat at a certain price — for
example, by giving up material or spoiling his position.
⻬ The attacker carries out an uncompromising mating attack; a considerable amount of material may be invested in the attack as long as mate is
certain in the end.
A lengthy course in attack is beyond the scope of this book, but you still can
make considerable progress in your attacking ability by reading the chapters
on strategy (Chapter 11) and tactics (Chapter 5). By successfully implementing strategic concepts, you soon find that you can build a sound foundation
for an attack against your opponent’s king and can then employ the specific
tactics necessary to deliver checkmate.
Principles to keep in mind
You can make a few generalizations about the middlegame as long as you
understand that every position is unique and that exceptions are lurking
like fleas just waiting to bite you in the ankle. The following are a few of the
generalizations:
⻬ Attack if you control the center. If you attack without controlling the
center, you’re exposed to a counterattack in the center, and your forces
may be split.
⻬ Meet a flank attack with action in the center. If your opponent attacks
on either side of the board, your attack in the center divides your opponent’s forces and conquers them.
⻬ Be prepared to develop quickly to any area. Your rapid deployment of
pieces to one area of the board may be decisive if your opponent can’t
respond as rapidly.
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⻬ Place queens in front of bishops and behind rooks during an attack.
The bishop isn’t powerful enough to lead an attack, and the queen is too
powerful to risk if the rook can do the dirty work in her place.
⻬ Don’t place your knights on the sides of the board. Knights control too
few squares from the side of the board, and their attacking power is
severely reduced.
⻬ Attack in the case of opposite-colored bishops. Because the bishops
on opposite-colored squares (called “opposite-colored bishops” in the
chess world) can’t be exchanged for one another or control the same
squares, the attacker has what sometimes amounts to an extra piece.
⻬ Exchange pieces to help your defense. You have fewer pieces to trip
over one another if you exchange some of them, and the attacker has
fewer pieces with which to threaten you.
⻬ Put the rooks on open files (and the same file). Putting the rooks on an
open file and then on the same file (which is called doubling) whenever
possible is helpful. Other pieces can zigzag their way into enemy territory. The rook requires an open file in order to invade successfully. Two
rooks acting together can control more territory than one alone.
⻬ Put rooks on your seventh rank. Rooks on a player’s seventh rank can
usually attack opponent’s pawns that have remained on their original
squares; sometimes the rooks can trap the opponent’s king to the back
rank.
⻬ Advance pawns to open lines. The opening is the time to develop your
pieces, not to waste time with excessive pawn moves. Conversely, in the
middlegame the pieces are already developed; it may then be appropriate to make additional pawn moves in order to open lines or create
weaknesses in your opponent’s position.
⻬ Always guard against a counterattack. Never leave your king exposed!
Chess players very often spoil promising positions in their zeal to attack
because they forget to first take a few small precautions. Sometimes it’s
proper to take a move or two to safeguard your own king’s position and
only then initiate or resume your more aggressive pursuits.
⻬ Use knights in closed positions and bishops in open ones. Bishops
need open lines in order to profit from their long-range attacking abilities. Knights are more effective in skirmishes at close quarters, and
closed positions are more apt to produce that sort of skirmish.
⻬ Attack where you control more space. If you do so, you have more
room to maneuver your pieces, and your opponent has less. You then
have more squares to choose from when posting your pieces, and you
may be able to swiftly shift your pieces from one point of attack to
another while the defender struggles to meet your threats.
Chapter 14
Exiting with Style in the Endgame
In This Chapter
䊳 Knowing why the endgame is so darn important
䊳 Laying out a general roadmap for phase three
䊳 Ending with the mighty and the lowly: King and pawn endings
䊳 Scrambling to avoid a draw: Rook endings
䊳 Letting the minor guys duke it out: Knight and bishop endings
“W
hy should I worry about the endgame?” a friend once asked me.
“I never get to one.” He meant that he either won or lost a game
well before the endgame entered into the picture. My response: The reason
he never got to an endgame was because he didn’t know anything about one.
My point? Good endgame knowledge informs your opening and middlegame
knowledge. In other words, you won’t understand why certain opening moves
are good or bad unless you understand the consequences they’ll have in the
endgame. You also won’t be able to formulate a good plan in the middlegame
if you can’t evaluate the plan’s implication for the endgame.
In this chapter, I describe general endgame strategies and present some specific examples of winning techniques. By definition, the endgame has a significant reduction of material, so mating attacks are normally out of the question.
Whatever material remains is of paramount importance, and the only way to
increase it is through one or more pawn promotions (see Chapter 10 for more
on pawn promotions).
Putting the Endgame into Perspective
Just as middlegame planning flows logically from the opening, the endgame
logically develops from the middlegame. The endgame arrives after the players lose a majority of pieces and clear much of the board. Attacks become
more difficult to execute with this reduction in material, and the emphasis
of play shifts away from tactics to strategy (in terms of this book, from
Chapter 5 to Chapter 11). The importance of individual pieces may undergo
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
a marked change in value, and the roles of the pawns and the kings become
more prominent.
Endgames are deceptively complex. Because so few pieces remain on the
board, the natural tendency is to conclude that endgames are easier than middlegames or openings. In fact, this phase is equally complicated; the difference
is that it’s easier to study than the earlier two phases. The openings and middlegames have too many possible variations to make heads or tails of them.
The endings, however, are clearer in that an idea may be proved or disproved
to win.
You can find a massive amount of documentation on the endgame in chess.
Experienced players know of many positions — or types of positions — that
lead to wins, losses, or draws. By studying the individual pieces in various
endgame positions, you can then begin to understand them in combination
with others. This strategy helps you to understand middlegame positions
and even openings. So you can see, the road to chess mastery begins with
the endgame.
In many cases, you can anticipate the endgame as early as in the opening,
where one side plays for an advantage in pawn structure that the player
can exploit only in the endgame.
Unfortunately, no shortcuts are available to help you master endgame positions; you must study them, if you intend to become a chess master. If you’d
rather just play than study, however, you’ll quickly find that learning just a
few basic positions and a few common themes is usually sufficient. In this
way, you come to understand a good deal about many endgame positions
and can figure out others as you play.
The General Winning Endgame Strategy
All endings are different, but the following methodology can serve you well as
a guide to devise the correct endgame plan.
⻬ Advance your king. The king comes out of hiding in the endgame and
becomes a critical factor. Advance the king toward passed pawns or
toward pawns that are weak and vulnerable to attack. Otherwise, generally advance the king toward the center.
⻬ Try to create a passed pawn. It’s relatively easier to promote a passed
pawn (see Chapter 3 for more on passed pawns).
⻬ Push your passed pawns and try to promote them. As the great grandmaster and writer Aaron Nimzowitsch once said, passed pawns have a
lust to expand. Don’t go overboard, however. Advance the passed pawn
only if doing so is safe. Advancing a pawn into the enemy’s teeth, where
its capture is certain, is essentially pointless.
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
⻬ Blockade your opponent’s passed pawns. You want to prevent them
from advancing toward their queening squares (the squares directly in
front of the pawns on the opposite end rank, where the pawns get promoted — see Chapter 9).
⻬ Offer to exchange pieces. Generally speaking, the more material that’s
still on the board, the more complicated the ending. Don’t exchange
from a winning ending into a drawn ending, of course, but stay alert to
the possibility of exchanging down into a simpler — yet still winning —
end.
⻬ Know your pieces. Steer the game into the type of ending where your
pieces are more suitable to winning than are those of your opponent. If
your pawns are still sitting on the same-colored squares as your bishop,
for example, try not to go into the ending in the first place! You probably
have better chances of securing an advantage in the middlegame.
Further, if you have more pawns than your opponent, exchange pieces,
not pawns. A pawn advantage increases as the number of pieces diminishes. But if you have fewer pawns than your opponent, exchange pawns,
not pieces. A pawn disadvantage decreases as the number of pawns
diminish.
Also keep in mind that protected passed pawns are very strong, as are
outside passed pawns. Outside, protected passed pawns are usually
decisive (see Chapter 3 for more on these types of passed pawns).
⻬ Know the basics. If you can study only a little bit of chess, study the
endgame. Learn the basic winning and drawing techniques for the
various endings, and you should find yourself playing the openings
and middlegames much better, too!
Pawn and King Endings
The most basic type of ending is the king and pawn versus king ending.
Sometimes the game boils down to a race for the queening square between
the pawn and the enemy king. In that case, if the lone king can’t prevent the
pawn from attaining its promotion to a queen, then that king will end up
checkmated. If the king can prevent the pawn’s promotion, then the game
ends up a draw.
You have two easy ways to determine whether the king can prevent a pawn
from promoting:
⻬ Count the squares between the pawn and the queening square and
between the king and that square.
⻬ Use the pawn square method. This method, which chess players also
call the rule of the square or the pawn quadrant, works best if you have a
lot of squares to count, and I describe it later in this section.
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This first example details the counting method. Here’s the question at hand:
With white’s turn to move in Figure 14-1, can the black king prevent the white
pawn from reaching the queening square? (Don’t worry about a missing white
king — the important part is to concentrate on the race of the pawn and the
black king to the queening square, h8.)
If you simply count the squares, you can see that the white pawn can queen
before the black king can stop its advance to the last rank. The white pawn
needs four moves to queen, which means that the black king has only three
moves in which to control the queening square. The black king needs four,
so black’s king is one square short of controlling the queening square, and
his doom is sealed.
x x
x
x
x
x
x
x
8
7
6
Figure 14-1:
Counting
the squares
in the paths
to the
nearest
queening
square.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
You can also determine black’s inability to stop the white pawn from queening by applying the principle of the pawn square. The idea behind the pawn
square is to create an imaginary square shape, which you start by extending
a line from the pawn to the queening square. Because all sides of a square
are of equal length, you can then create a mental picture of the other sides of
the square, as shown in Figure 14-2, where the Xs mark the boundaries of the
pawn square. The rule goes as follows: If the king is outside the pawn square,
and it is your move, then the pawn can queen. If the king is on or inside the
square, however, it can stop the pawn from queening. So in this case, as the
previous counting squares method shows, the white pawn is in the clear, and
black is a goner.
Sometimes, simply stopping the straightforward march of the pawn isn’t
enough for the black king. In some positions, the pawn can queen with the
assistance of its own king. Knowing exactly when a king and pawn can defeat
a lone king and when they can’t is crucial to the understanding of endgames.
That’s where the opposition comes in. . . .
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
x x x x x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x x x x
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 14-2:
The pawn 2
square.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
When the kings face off: Opposition
If you think that “opposition” refers to your opponent, think again. This term
refers to a fundamental and frequently occurring situation in king and pawn
endings. If you need to study and become completely familiar with one single
concept in the endgame, learn the opposition. Many nuances to the opposition are beyond the scope of this chapter, but this tactic is described in more
detail in many works on the endgame.
Opposition occurs when the two kings face one another, as shown in Figure
14-3, and one must make way for the other, because it’s illegal for one king
to attack the other. The king that moved last is said to “have the opposition,”
because the other king must give ground.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 14-3:
The 2
opposition. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Quite often, the opposition determines whether a game is won, lost, or ends
in a draw. Often, however, as in the example shown in Figure 14-4, you must
know which side moves next to correctly evaluate the position. Here’s the
essence of the opposition: If the kings face one another and are separated by
an odd number of squares, then the player who moved last has the opposition. (This situation is one of the few times in chess when you’d like to say,
“I pass!”)
8
7
6
5
Figure 14-4: 4
The white
king and 3
black king
are in a 2
face-off.
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
Suppose that it’s white’s turn to move in Figure 14-4. A king move by white
would be useless (the king can only retreat, not advance), so white has no
better option than to advance the pawn (1. d7+), as shown in Figure 14-5a.
Now black moves the king to occupy the queening square (1. ...Kd8); see
Figure 14-5b.
Figure 14-5:
White
moves its
pawn, and
black
prevents it
from
queening.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
b
f
g
h
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
White must now either let the black king capture its pawn or give stalemate
by moving into a protective position behind the pawn (2. Kd6), as shown in
Figure 14-6. Remember that stalemate is a draw.
8
7
6
5
Figure 14-6:
4
White
protects the 3
pawn,
inducing 2
stalemate.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If, on the other hand, black moves next in the original position shown back
in Figure 14-4, then white can eventually queen the pawn and win the game.
Black can’t advance its king toward the white king, and the best chance black
has now is to cover the queening square (1. ...Kd8), as shown in Figure 14-7.
Otherwise, the advance of the pawn would cut off black from this key square,
and white would then queen the pawn on the next turn.
8
7
6
5
Figure 14-7:
Black
occupies
the
queening
square.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
White can now advance the pawn in safety (2. d7), because the king is protecting it, as shown in Figure 14-8a. Black must move away to the only square
in which the king isn’t in check (2. ...Kc7); see Figure 14-8b.
Figure 14-8:
The white
pawn
advances,
and the
black king
must
retreat.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
This move enables white to advance the king (3. Ke7) and control the queening square, as Figure 14-9 shows. Black’s only available moves are away from
the queening square — which only prolongs black’s agony. The white pawn
can then advance to the last rank and get promoted to a queen; checkmate
soon follows.
8
7
6
Figure 14-9:
Protected
by its king,
the white
pawn will
soon
become a
queen.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
Endings with king and rook’s pawn versus king always end in draws if the
weaker side can get to the queening square. This outcome is inevitable
because the stronger side can’t approach the queening square with its king
and can’t advance its pawn without giving stalemate (the black king has no
escape route off to the side in the case of the rook’s pawn).
When each side has more than one pawn
Endings with king and pawns versus king and pawns can be deceptively complicated. You do have a few guidelines to follow, however.
Use one pawn to restrain two
Sometimes, trying to count the number of pawn moves necessary to determine whether a situation is a win or a draw (can a pawn queen?) can be confusing. When trying to limit the number of your opponent’s strong pawns,
then, see if you can restrain two for the price of one. Consider, for example,
the position shown in Figure 14-10.
8
7
6
5
Figure 14-10:
Which
white pawn
can restrain
two black
pawns?
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Hitting on the correct first move for white — advancing the pawn on b2 two
squares (1. b4) — is a simple matter (see Figure 14-11). White can restrain
two black pawns by blocking the path of the pawn on b5 and by threatening
to capture black’s a-pawn should it move to a5.
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8
7
6
5
Figure 14-11: 4
One white
pawn can 3
thwart the
advance of 2
two!
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Advance an unopposed pawn
If you’re faced with a choice of which pawn to advance, advance the pawn
that doesn’t face an opponent. In Figure 14-12, white moves the unopposed
pawn on g2 two squares forward to g4.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 14-12:
Advancing 3
the
unopposed 2
pawn. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
In Figure 14-13, you can see the consequence of advancing a pawn on the
same file as an opposing pawn. If white advances the h-pawn instead of the gpawn (1. h4), then black’s response is to restrain both of those pawns by
moving the h-pawn up two squares (1. ...h5)! (See the preceding section for
this technique.)
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 14-13:
Black is 3
blocking
two pawns 2
with one.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Get a passed pawn
The next position is one that I show to all my students. This position vividly
demonstrates that the power of a passed pawn is often worth all the knights
in Columbus. (Chapter 3 provides details on passed pawns.)
A superficial glance at the position tells you that the two sides are even
in material but that the white king is too far away from the action (see Figure 14-14). A deeper look, however, suggests that the important point isn’t
the position of the white king but the advanced position of the white pawns.
How can white turn this setup into an advantage? By creating a passed pawn!
8
7
6
5
Figure 14-14: 4
The white
pawns have 3
a significant
advanced 2
position.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
With its first move, advancing the middle pawn (1. b6), white threatens to
capture one of the defending black pawns and then to queen with that pawn
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Part III: Game Time: Putting Your Chess Foot Forward
on the following move (see Figure 14-15a). This threat forces black to capture
the forward white pawn (1. ...cxb6); see Figure 14-15b. Which pawn black uses
to capture white’s marauder really doesn’t matter.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
Figure 14-15:
3
White
sacrifices a 2
pawn.
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
a
h
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
a
White advances another pawn (2. a6) with the same threat of capturing and
queening on the next two moves (see Figure 14-16a). Black must again capture the attacking white pawn (2. ...bxa6), as shown in Figure 14-16b.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
Figure 14-16: 4
White
sacrifices a 3
second 2
pawn.
4
3
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
a
f
g
h
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Following the two white pawn sacrifices, the nature of the overall position is
radically altered. Upon moving forward one square to c6 (3. c6), white now
has a passed pawn, which has a clear path to the queening square, as shown
in Figure 14-17.
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
8
7
6
Figure 14-17:
White has
achieved a
passed
pawn and
soon will
queen.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Regardless of what black does now, white can queen the pawn in two moves.
After white queens the pawn, the win is straightforward.
Always be on the lookout for an opportunity to create a passed pawn that
can continue marching unimpeded toward the queening square. In the preceding example, the two pawns who gave their lives so that the third could
achieve promotion deserve burial with full military honors!
Rook Endings: The Oh-So-Common
Tricksters
Rook endings are the most common endings in chess — mainly because
rooks are usually the last pieces you develop and the last you and your opponent exchange. These endings are awfully tricky — even masters commit
elementary mistakes.
Akiba Rubinstein (1882–1961), a grandmaster from Poland, is generally considered to have been the finest rook and pawn expert of his time. His handling of these positions has instructed entire generations who followed him,
and this legacy now belongs to chess heritage. Of course, few people can play
like Rubinstein. One of his contemporaries, Dr. Siegbert Tarrasch, summed up
my feeling about rook and pawn endings when he said, “All rook and pawn
endings are drawn.” That claim isn’t true, of course, but it sure feels like it
sometimes. My advice: Checkmate your opponent before you reach one of
these endings!
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Rooks are aggressive pieces and become despondent if relegated to passive
defense. Keep this characteristic in mind, especially if you’re defending an
inferior position. Following are several guidelines for rook endings:
⻬ Activate your rook. Give up a pawn to turn a passive rook into an
aggressive one. This sacrifice may well be worth it.
⻬ Put your rooks behind passed pawns. You can best position rooks
behind passed pawns. The next best rook position is to the side of
passed pawns, and the least desirable position is in front of passed
pawns.
⻬ Advance connected passed pawns against rooks. Connected passed
pawns are most effective against rooks, so advance these pawns
together.
⻬ Put your king on the queening square. If you’re defending your king
with one rook against a rook and a pawn, occupy the queening square
with your king, if possible.
⻬ Harass your opponent’s king with your rook. If defending, you may
want to harass the enemy king with repeated checks by your rook.
Harass from a safe distance, however, keeping your rook as far away
from the enemy king as possible to avoid losing it.
⻬ Look out for the draw. When both sides have pawns all on one side of
the board, rook endings are often drawn.
Bishops and Knights:
Minor Piece Endings
The endings that involve minor pieces are a little bit easier to understand
than rook endings. Knights are better than bishops if the endgame commences with pawns in locked positions, but bishops become stronger than
knights in open positions with pawns on both sides of the board. A knight
can restrict a bishop’s movement only with great difficulty, while a bishop
can far more readily restrict a knight’s movement — especially if the knight
is positioned at the side of the board.
Consider the position shown in Figure 14-18. Here, the bishop covers all the
squares, marked by Xs, to which the knight can potentially move. This example serves to illustrate one of the advantages of having a bishop instead of
a knight in an ending. The bishop can often trade itself for the knight and
potentially turn the game into a favorable king and pawn ending. The knight,
however, rarely has this option.
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
8
x
7
6
x
5
4
x
3
Figure 14-18:
The bishop’s 2
advantage.
1
a
b
x
c
d
e
f
g
h
In some cases, however, you’d rather have a knight than a bishop. Such a
situation is demonstrated in Figure 14-19. In this example, because the white
bishop is on a dark square and by definition can’t attack anything on a light
square, it can’t attack any of the black pawns and must passively defend
the white pawns. Only black has winning chances in this case, thanks to the
knight’s ability to move from a light square to a dark square and back. The
knight can theoretically occupy any of the squares, but the bishop can’t.
By improving the position of the knight and king, black may be able to force
white into further concessions and even win the game.
8
7
6
5
4
3
Figure 14-19:
The knight’s 2
advantage. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Remember that in all minor piece endings, neither bishop and king nor knight
and king can deliver checkmate by themselves. This inability on the part of
the knight and bishop to force checkmate in endings means that the weaker
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side needs to try to exchange as many pawns as possible. If the weaker side
eliminates all the pawns, even by sacrificing a piece to do so, then the game
is drawn.
Medieval times, chess-style:
Knight versus knight
When knights square off against knights, the action is defined by the piece’s
lack of long-range attacking ability. Hand-to-hand fighting is much more
common, so keep these rules in mind:
⻬ Use your knight to blockade. Anchor your knight to the square in front
of a passed pawn. This strategy prevents the pawn from moving without
diminishing the knight’s attacking power. Knights are good soldiers and
don’t take offense at performing guard duty, as rooks and queens do.
⻬ Beware of outside passed pawns. Outside passed pawns are especially
effective against knights. Knights are good at short-range attack but
weak at long range, because they can influence only one side of the
board at a time.
⻬ Sacrifice the knight to get a passed pawn. Consider sacrificing the
knight to create an unstoppable passed pawn.
In Figure 14-20, black has succeeded in blocking the white pawns on the kingside (they can’t force their way to a queening square). Black’s outside passed
pawn on a6 is threatening to advance toward its queening square.
White can prevent this potential queening by capturing the a6 pawn with its
knight on b4 (1. Nxa6) and thereby sacrificing it, as shown in Figure 14-21.
8
7
6
5
Figure 14-20: 4
Black’s
pawn on a6 3
has the
potential of 2
queening.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Chapter 14: Exiting with Style in the Endgame
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 14-21: 3
White
sacrifices 2
its knight.
1
a
b
d
c
e
f
g
h
If black captures the white knight with its pawn on b7 (1. ...bxa6), as shown
in Figure 14-22a, then white has an unstoppable passed pawn on the b-file
(see Figure 14-22b) and will win.
Figure 14-22:
By
sacrificing
its knight,
white has
created a
passed
pawn.
8
8
7
7
6
6
5
5
4
4
3
3
2
2
1
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
a
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
b
Survival of the fittest:
Knight versus bishop
Here are some things to keep in mind for endings involving knights and
bishops.
⻬ Use bishops in open positions. Knights like closed positions, and bishops like open ones, because their mobility increases. The bishop’s superiority to the knight lies in its ability to attack both sides of the board at
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once. The knight can’t defend on one side and attack on the other simultaneously, but the bishop can. Endings are usually open, so bishops tend
to be superior in the endgame.
⻬ Reduce the mobility of bishops with pawns. By placing your pawns on
the same-colored squares as the opponent’s bishop, you can restrict the
bishop’s mobility. Ideally, you want your opponent to restrict his or her
own bishop. Be careful not to place your pawns where the bishop can
attack and win them. Follow this rule only if it restricts the bishop’s
mobility and the pawns are safe from capture.
⻬ Look for won king-and-pawn endings. A king-and-pawn ending is easier
to win than any other type of ending. If you can trade your piece for
your opponent’s and go into a won king-and-pawn ending, do it!
⻬ Use bishops if the pawns are spread out. The bishop’s advantage
increases when pawns are spread out on the board. The less symmetrical the position of the pawns, the better the bishop’s situation.
A religious battle: Bishop versus bishop
Two completely different types of bishop-versus-bishop endings exist: when
the bishops are on the same-colored squares and when they’re on oppositecolored squares (commonly called “bishops of opposite color” or “oppositecolored bishops”).
⻬ Look out for a draw with opposite-colored bishops. Bishops of opposite color increase the chances of a draw: They can never capture one
another! In addition, opposite-colored bishops can’t get past each
other’s blockade.
⻬ Trade same-colored bishops if you’re stronger. In same-colored bishop
endings, you can force the weaker side to give ground by offering to
exchange the bishops. Put your bishop on the same diagonal as the one
your opponent’s bishop is on. Support your bishop with the king. If you
have more pawns, your opponent won’t want to trade and will be forced
to cede the diagonal to you.
⻬ Use a long-range bishop to control a passed pawn. The bishop can prevent the advance of a passed pawn by controlling the square in front of
the pawn. Remember that the bishop can control a square from a long
distance.
The farther apart passed pawns are, the better the stronger side’s
chances are of winning. If the pawns are close together, then the enemy
king can help establish a blockade. If they’re farther apart, a blockade
isn’t possible. The king can be used on one side or the other, but not
both.
Part IV
Getting Into
Advanced Action
I
In this part . . .
f you want to play chess, you have to have someone
(or something) to play with you. In this part, I give you
the scoop on the various types of competition, from clubs
to computers and the World Wide Web. In addition, you
find a whole chapter on chess notation so that you can
play a game of chess by e-mail or snail mail with people
from all over the world. Knowing some chess notation
also lets you read about chess as well as write about your
own experiences.
Chapter 15
Competition Play and
Necessary Etiquette
In This Chapter
䊳 Going to a club to prime your competitive skills
䊳 Getting the skinny on tournaments
䊳 Heading abroad with your game
䊳 Refusing to forsake the PJs: Correspondence chess
䊳 Knowing how to be nice when you play
I
f you’re like me, you’ll be nervous the first time you enter a tournament.
Don’t let that stop you! World champions had to play in their first tournament, too, and most chess aficionados remember what it feels like to not
know the ropes. Just ask questions to the first quasi-official person you lay
eyes on, and chances are you may make a new friend in the process. To give
you firm ground to start on, I’ve included this chapter to bring you into the
loop.
In this chapter, I discuss chess clubs for those of you who want to boost your
game while getting your social kicks. Then, for whenever you feel ready to
exercise your competitive edge, I tell you where to find a tournament, how to
act when you arrive at one, what to expect, and, of course, the good etiquette
rules to remember while you’re there.
Practice Makes Perfect:
Joining a Club First
I usually advise my students to get involved in a club prior to playing in a
tournament. A club is usually a friendlier environment and the best place to
get your feet wet — you’ll probably meet some tournament veterans who
may be willing to take you under their wings. That’s how most chess greats
got started in tournament play.
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Different clubs meet at different times, and some are larger than others. A
club’s membership may range from beginner to master, and the competitions
may be informal or deadly serious. You have to visit one to find out what it’s
like. Each club usually has a director who can answer any questions you may
have and can help you find someone near your skill level.
To find a club near you, go to the online club directory page for the United
States Chess Federation (USCF) at www.uschess.org/directories/
AffiliateSearch/. There you can find the name and contact information
for any organization affiliated with the USCF.
U.S. Tournament Basics
In order to play a tournament game, you should know all the rules of competition (check out the fifth edition of the USCF rulebook) and be familiar with
chess etiquette (which I discuss later in this chapter). Tournament chess in
the United States is certified and rated (meaning that everyone gets a numerical evaluation of his or her performance) by the USCF. Normally, the tournaments are run by a tournament director and require membership in the USCF
and an entry fee. You can find all the information you need about the organization, as well as forms for becoming a member, on the USCF Web site at
www.uschess.org. When you compete in a tournament, you should bring
your own equipment: a chessboard, set, and clock (see Appendix B to find
some good sources for this equipment).
U.S. tournaments are advertised in Chess Life, the monthly publication of the
USCF, which is included with your membership dues and is available on the
USCF Web site. Chess Life has a section that includes the upcoming events and
the names and phone numbers of the tournament directors. This listing will
look like Greek to you the first time you see one, because it has all sorts of
codes and shorthand. If you’re a novice, call the director and tell him or her
that you’re an unrated player and ask any questions you may have. Everyone
was a beginner at some point, and these directors will take the time to show
you the ropes.
Watching your time and rating high
You don’t need a chess clock in order to play an informal game of chess, but
you do need one in order to play a tournament game. An analog chess clock
has two faces (a digital one has two readouts) — one for each player. You
depress a mechanism on your side of the clock to start your opponent’s
clock. Black starts white’s clock at the beginning of the game, and after white
moves, white stops his or her own while simultaneously starting black’s.
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette
Depending upon the tournament, the length of time allocated (called the time
control ) for the game varies. Each player may have 90 minutes to make 30
moves, for example, or he or she may have two hours to make 50. If any
player exceeds the time limit while failing to make the minimum number of
moves, he or she forfeits the game. Such a forfeit (called a loss on time) is
treated just like any other loss for rating purposes.
Ratings in chess are a measure of expected performance versus known opposition, and they fluctuate based on your results: wins, losses, and draws.
Beginners get their initial ratings by playing in tournaments against people
with established ratings. The ratings given by the international governing
body in chess, called the Fédération Internationale des Échecs (FIDE, pronounced fee-day), are sometimes referred to as Elo ratings after one of the
rating system’s prime developers, Arpad Elo.
The USCF uses a similar rating system, which is generally 50 to 70 points
higher than the FIDE one. The FIDE system, however, doesn’t rate players
below a certain skill level, and treats them as unrated. The USCF system
divides the rating population into classes as shown in Table 15-1.
Table 15-1
The USCF Rating System
Points
Class
2,400 and up
Senior Master
2,200–2,399
Master
2,000–2,199
Expert
1,800–1,999
Class A
1,600–1,799
Class B
1,400–1,599
Class C
1,200–1,399
Class D
1,199 and below
Class E
The average tournament player has a rating in the Class C range. This rating
is actually fairly high if you take into account all chess players, not just the
competitive sort, because tournament players tend to be quite serious about
their chess. Casual players may be very strong, of course, but usually active
tournament players tend to be the strongest in the country.
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Sandbaggers
When high-fee, high-class prize tournaments
became popular, some chess players tried to
manipulate their own ratings. These players
would intentionally lose rating points in low-cost
events in order to play in a class below their true
strength in the big-money tournaments — with
the hope of defeating weaker competition and
collecting relatively large cash prizes. This
unethical practice is referred to as sandbagging.
Calling a player a sandbagger is one of the worst
chess-related insults!
The USCF class system has led to the development of class prizes. This
means that a typical Swiss system tournament (see the next section) offers
cash prizes in each of the rating divisions, which allows the organizer to
demand high entry fees. This setup can lead to a sort of ruthless competition,
which is another reason to start out in clubs (see the first section in this
chapter) or smaller events, where the competition is still fierce — but
friendlier.
Familiarizing yourself with
the types of tournaments
Generally speaking, tournament competition comes in three varieties: the
Swiss system, round robin, and match. The Swiss system, or Swiss for short,
is the most popular in the United States. Matches and round robin competitions are usually more expensive to organize.
Swiss system
Most weekend tournaments in the United States are run according to the rules
of the Swiss system. The Swiss system orders all players by their rating (and
ranks unrated players alphabetically) and splits the list in half. The top player
of the top half is paired against the top player of the bottom half, and so on,
until the bottom player of the top half is paired against the bottom player of
the bottom half. In case of an uneven number of players, the bottom-most
player is usually given a one-half point bye (which means they’re paired in the
next round as if they’d made a draw, even though they didn’t play the game).
Winners get one point, draws score one-half point, and losers get zero points.
In the next round, winners play winners, losers play losers, and so forth, following the same procedure of dividing the lists in half and pairing the people
in the two halves accordingly.
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette
The Swiss Gambit
Usually the first rounds of a tournament run
under the Swiss system involve mismatches.
Strong players play weaker players, especially
early on in the tournament. Some players use a
dubious strategy, called the Swiss Gambit,
designed to avoid the toughest competition.
This strategy involves allowing a draw with a
weaker player, which gets the gambitor easier
pairings (the winners play other winners, but
the gambitor plays someone else who only
drew) in the next few rounds. The hope is that
in the later rounds, the strongest players will be
playing each other — and the gambitor will
sneak into the prize money by playing inferior
competition.
This strategy, like any other designed to manipulate results, is just as likely to backfire as succeed. Who knows whether you’ll really get
weaker pairings? In all cases, you should play
your best.
Gradually, you begin to play players of your approximate strength, because —
in theory, anyway — you should be scoring roughly the same amount of
points against the same kind of competition. The strongest players, or the
players having the best tournament, are increasingly likely to play one
another as the tournament goes on. The winner is the player who scores
the greatest number of points.
Round robin
A round-robin tournament is one where everyone plays everyone else. These
tournaments are regarded as a more accurate judge of a player’s performance
because they don’t involve “lucky” pairing. Round-robin tournaments are used
to determine most national championships and international tournaments. A
drawback to this type of tournament is that it normally takes a longer period
of time to complete and is therefore more expensive to produce.
An offshoot of the round robin is the Quad, where the tournament is divided
into groups of four players of roughly equal strength, who then play one
another. This type of system is popular in the United States because it’s
inexpensive and avoids mismatches.
Match competition
Match competition isn’t technically tournament competition, because it
involves only two players, but it’s another popular form of competition
and can be rated. In a match, one player plays another for a predetermined
number of games. This head-to-head competition is the purest method
for determining the stronger player and is usually adopted in order to
determine the world champion — or the world champion’s challenger.
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Tournament Chess around the World
The main difference between national and international tournaments is that
they play by two sets of rules. The basic rules of how to play are the same, of
course, but the rules governing competition have some differences. In general, FIDE’s rules rely more on the discretion of the officials, called arbiters, to
resolve any disputes or enforce claims. USCF rules are more involved and dictate specific actions in specific situations to a much greater degree. That’s
why their rule book is so big and undergoes periodic revision.
Some international tournaments are by invitation only, but many Swiss
events (see the preceding section) are open to anyone. You play by FIDE’s
rules and for a FIDE rating, but otherwise the experience is similar to a U.S.
tournament.
FIDE comprises the member nations of the world who pay dues and elect
FIDE officials (the USCF is the official representative of the United States, for
example). The organization also supervises the world championship and
Chess Olympiads, where countries send teams to compete. As such, FIDE is
responsible for awarding titles to an unlimited number of individual players,
such as the following:
⻬ Grandmaster (GM): The grandmaster title is the highest title awarded
by FIDE and is earned by turning in excellent performances (called
norms) in competition with players who already own the title.
⻬ International master (IM): The international master title is secondary to
the grandmaster and is also achieved by making norms in events that
include a sufficient number of grandmasters or international masters.
⻬ FIDE master (FM): The FIDE master title is the third and last awarded by
FIDE. The recipients are players who maintain a rating of 2,300 or above,
which is master class, in FIDE-sanctioned events.
Going Long Distance: Correspondence
Chess
Correspondence chess was originally played by sending postcards of chess
moves through the mail (some people still call it “postal chess”). With the
rise of the Internet, however, tournaments and competitions have also taken
on a new form via e-mail and Web servers (see more on cyberchess in
Chapter 16). Clearly, you have to know chess notation in order to participate
(and I explain it in Chapter 17), but after you get the hang of it, you’ll find that
correspondence chess is an excellent way to find opponents from outside
your geographical area without leaving the comfort of your home.
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette
The schism
In 1993, the FIDE world championship match was
supposed to be between champion Russia’s
Garry Kasparov and England’s Nigel Short,
Kasparov’s rightful challenger. However, Kasparov wasn’t happy with the prize fund, so he
ditched FIDE and helped found the Professional
Chess Association (PCA).
The Kasparov-Short match was held under the
sponsorship of the PCA, and FIDE was left with a
sham match between two players whom Short
had already defeated. Kasparov won the match
convincingly and defended his title against
Viswanathan Anand of India in 1995. The primary
sponsor of the PCA was Intel — but after the 1995
match, Intel withdrew its support, and the PCA
was history.
Negotiations for a reunification match between
players with a claim to being champion continued to flounder. A non-FIDE-sanctioned match
between Kasparov and Vladimir Kramnik (see
Chapter 19 for more on these two) in 2000 ended
in Kasparov’s defeat. Although most people still
consider Kasparov the world’s best player, he
was thwarted in his attempts for a rematch.
These goings-on call into question a fundamental historical division in chess: Does the title of
world champion belong to the titleholder, or to
the organization that grants it?
To find opponents, you usually need to belong to an official postal organization. If you decide that snail mail isn’t your bag and prefer to play in cyberspace, you can hop online to hook up with an opponent. The USCF has a
number of correspondence events, and Chess Life often has a column dedicated to postal chess. Magazines are even dedicated to this type of chess
competition. Check out the following correspondence-chess-related Web
sites to find more contact information to find an opponent:
⻬ www.uschess.org/cc
⻬ www.chessmail.com
⻬ www.chessbymail.com
⻬ www.iccf.com
Miss (or Mister) Manners:
Tournament Etiquette
Chess is supposed to be fun, but quite often people take it very seriously.
When you play Mr. or Ms. No Fun, you should know the do’s and don’ts of
chess etiquette.
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Don’t smoke ’em if you got ’em
A famous story in chess circles tells about one
grandmaster complaining about another who
kept an unlit cigar next to the chessboard. “It’s
a no-smoking tournament,” the former complained to the tournament director. The director,
quite rightly, pointed out that the cigar was unlit.
The grandmaster insisted, however, claiming
that his opponent was threatening to smoke!
This absurdity has at least some basis in the
chess world, because we have a saying that the
threat is stronger than the execution!
Chess etiquette is especially important in tournament chess. In a serious
encounter, both players are staring at the board for hours at a time. Your
hypersensitive opponent will surely notice a raised eyebrow, and a sneeze
may cause someone to go into shock. Heaven forbid that you’d have a nervous tic or a habit of drumming your fingers or humming (mostly) to yourself. Chess players have complained about all these things and more.
You may properly address your opponent during the game only to offer a
draw. If you have a complaint, the safest course of action is to bring it up to
the tournament director. If the game is only for fun, use common sense —
but above all, avoid distracting an opponent who’s thinking about a move.
Chess at these levels is an incredibly tense activity, and players get no physical release. Even otherwise placid individuals have been known to lose their
cool over a real or imagined infraction. The best thing to do is just play for
the fun of it, but even then it’s important to know the basics.
Knowing when to call your loss
Chess coaches regularly instruct beginners to never give up and always
play out the game to checkmate. “No one ever wins by resigning,” they say.
Although this point may be true, sometimes a loss is inevitable, and wasting
your opponent’s time when you both know you’re doomed is just plain rude.
When to resign
If you’re hopelessly behind in material or face imminent checkmate, you may
as well start another game. Over the course of your lifetime you may spend
hours hoping to save one or two completely lost positions when instead you
can be spending that time starting over from scratch. Moreover, you rarely —
if ever — learn anything from these types of hopelessly lost positions. You’re
much better off spending your time figuring out where you went wrong and
then trying not to get into that mess again.
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette
It’s possible that your opponents enjoy seeing you squirm, so they don’t
mind continuing on. More likely, however, they’ll get annoyed that you don’t
know when to resign and may refuse to play with you anymore. In fact, I quit
going to one club in particular because the players there kept playing on in
hopeless positions. I found myself driving home well after midnight week
after week. If the members knew when to resign, I may have continued to
play there.
The bottom line, however, is that resignation is a personal decision. You never
resign just because your opponent wants you to, but you should resign when
you objectively decide that you have no way to save the game. After the conclusion is inevitable, you may as well shake your opponent’s hand and go
your merry way.
How to resign
Just as important as when to resign is how to resign. The formal method is
not to throw your hands in the air and start crying, but to tip your king over
on its side. This action is a universally recognized surrender. Then it’s important that you extend your hand to congratulate your opponent — this show
of sportsmanship is a valued ritual in chess. It demonstrates that you have at
least a touch of class.
Many players shake hands after the game but then undo the goodwill gesture
by complaining that they should’ve, by all rights, won the game themselves.
“If I’d just done this, instead of that, it was curtains for you,” they sometimes
say. This talk is just childishness. Far more effective is to ask, “What would
you have done if I’d played this instead of that?” This approach accomplishes
a couple of things. First, it acknowledges that your opponent’s opinion, by
virtue of the victory, may have some validity. Secondly, it allows you to listen
to your opponent’s ideas. You’re much better off if you pick your opponent’s
brain in this manner than try to explain away why you lost the game.
Sometimes both you and your opponent will spend considerable time discussing the game. Chess players call these post mortem sessions. Try to be
respectful during these sessions and concentrate on learning — not proving
a point. You’ll make many chess friends if you follow this advice.
Offering a draw
If you’ve determined that you can’t checkmate your opponent, and if you
don’t think your opponent can checkmate you, you may want to offer a draw
(or a tie). Offering a draw under any other circumstances may be considered
annoying, and your opponent may report you to the tournament director.
What’s worse is that the draw offer may be accepted or rejected, and you
may still get scolded. In other words, if you make an improper draw offer,
your opponent has the right to accept it and complain about it.
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Did Kasparov cheat?
During one tournament game against Judit
Polgar, Kasparov made his move and seemed to
take his hand away from the piece for a split
second. He then moved the piece to another
square. The shocked Polgar didn’t make a claim
but later indicated that she thought the champion had indeed taken his hand off of the piece.
Kasparov denied doing so.
However, the game was videotaped, and a careful review of the tape showed that Kasparov did
in fact let go of the piece. Unfortunately, chess
doesn’t have instant replays, and no protest was
possible after the game was over. If even world
champions break the rules, what hope do the
rest of us have?
Under tournament conditions, you may make a draw offer only after you’ve
made a move and before you’ve started your opponent’s clock. Never offer a
draw to your opponent on his or her time. That behavior is a breach of etiquette, and repeated offenses may cause you to lose the game by forfeit.
If you make a draw offer without making a move, your opponent has the right
to ask to see your move and then decide whether to accept or reject your
offer. Repeated draw offers may be considered annoying, so wait until the
position has changed substantially before making another offer.
If the position on the board is about to be repeated for the third time, you
can claim a draw without asking. However, you must do so before making
the move that would repeat the position for the third time, because the claim
must be made on your own time and a tournament director must witness
the move.
Being careful what you touch
One of the touchiest subjects in chess is the touch-move rule. This rule simply
means that if you touch a piece, you must move it — if doing so is legal. If you
touch a piece that has no legal move, you’re free to move any other piece.
The move is considered complete when you take your hand off the piece.
Sometimes one player claims that the other touched a piece, and the second
player denies doing so. If witnesses are nearby, the director may be able to
make an informed decision. In the absence of witnesses, the claim generally
isn’t upheld on the first complaint. If you accidentally bump a piece or knock
one over, you should say, “I adjust” and replace the dislodged piece.
Chapter 15: Competition Play and Necessary Etiquette
Furthering the touch-move rule, a frequent cause of complaints is the hand
hover. The hand hover occurs when a player positions his or her hand over a
piece and leaves it there. The hand hover is a distraction, and you shouldn’t
do it — so goes the warning by José Capablanca (see Chapter 19 for more on
that guy). You should never obscure your opponent’s sight of the board
unless you’re in the act of moving, so don’t reach for a piece until you’ve
decided to move it.
Straightening your pieces
Sometimes a pawn or a piece may not be resting completely on one square or
another. You’re allowed to adjust that pawn or piece or even a whole bunch
of them — but only if you do it on your time and if you warn your opponent
first. The French phrase J’adoube (juh-doob; “I adjust”) is considered to be
the proper warning, but it’s also proper to use the English translation.
As long as you’ve issued the J’adoube warning, the touch-move rule is temporarily waived. Keep in mind, however, that you can’t say “J’adoube” or
“I adjust” after you’ve touched a piece!
Saving snacks for later
Generally, it’s considered improper to eat or drink anything at the chessboard
except for water or coffee. Of course, if you’re playing in your own living room,
all bets are off. The home team determines the ground rules in that case.
My worst experience with food at the chessboard came in my very first big
tournament in New York. It was the last-round game, and whoever won would
clinch a sizable prize. My opponent came to the board with a sloppy meatball
sandwich and proceeded to get the sauce all over his hands. He then decided
to adjust all my pieces, covering them with the sauce.
I was too inexperienced to complain and too young to shrug it off. Instead, I
let my opponent’s rudeness affect my play, which is what my opponent had
hoped would happen, and managed to lose rather badly. Needless to say, this
scenario was a severe breach of chess etiquette, and I should’ve complained
to an official at once.
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The worst losers in chess history
Mike Fox and Richard James, in their delightful
book The Even More Complete Chess Addict
(published by Faber and Faber), nominate the
following three candidates for the title of “worst
loser in chess history.” In their own words:
⻬ Taking the bronze: Former world champion
Alexander Alekhine, a notoriously temperamental loser. At Vienna in 1922, Alekhine
spectacularly resigned against Ernst
Grünfeld by hurling his king across the room.
⻬ In the silver medal position: Another famous
loser, Aaron Nimzowitsch. At a lightning
chess tournament in Berlin, he said out loud
what everyone has at one time felt. Instead
of quietly turning over his king, Nimzo leapt
onto his chair and bellowed across the tournament hall: “Why must I lose to this idiot?”
Not nice, but everyone knows the feeling.
⻬ The gold medal, plus the John McEnroe
Award for bad behavior at a tournament:
The lesser-known Danish player (reported in
the Chess Scene and who was unnamed),
who lost as a result of a finger slip involving
his queen (refer to the “Being careful what
you touch” section in this chapter). Unable
to contain his despair, he snuck back into the
tournament hall in the dead of night and cut
the heads off all the queens.
Chapter 16
Hitting the Net with
Computer Chess
In This Chapter
䊳 Playing chess against a computer
䊳 Digging up past games and other data
䊳 Exploring chess software
䊳 Learning chess from a computer
䊳 Getting your game on online
C
hess software and the evolution of the Internet have revolutionized the
way players study and play chess. You can now play chess at all hours
of the day against players from all over the world, follow the top tournaments
in real time from the comfort of your home, or play, on your own PC, a program that can defeat grandmasters.
In this chapter, I start out by giving you the rundown on what computer
chess entails and how it differs from human-to-human chess (aside from the
obvious fact that a computer doesn’t breathe). Then I give you a primer on
computer software, databases, and online play for chess. Because technology
is ever changing, I don’t provide a lot of specific suggestions — instead, I provide all the information you need in order to find the right program for you
and direct you to the most reputable chess Web sites and to the places where
you have the best chances for finding solid software.
Computers versus Humans
Nowadays, computers are certainly playing a stronger game than many
humans can, but when you play against them, you must remember that
they’re not really playing chess. They’re simply performing calculations.
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I can hear the peanut gallery now: “Duh, computers are supposed to calculate!” Nevertheless, this distinction is important. In the old days, chess was
used as the ideal application for artificial intelligence (AI). The reasoning was
that if someone could create an AI to play chess like a human does, scientists’ understanding of how the human mind works would’ve dramatically
increased. At that point, other simulations would be possible, or so the thinking went. However, the emphasis in computer chess eventually shifted from
playing a chess game as a human would to simply playing as well as possible.
The triumph of the number crunchers
The early AI approach was to use what were called heuristics, where computers would play by using certain rules of thumb, to try to map out the game
the way a human would. Other approaches were simply crunching numbers.
Early on, both approaches seemed equally valid because both led to equally
bad play.
Soon, however, the speed of the modern computers increased many times
over, and the number crunchers triumphed. Nowadays, little effort is made to
have a computer play like a human would play. Instead, programmers simply
try to calculate as many positions (or ply in computerspeak) as possible.
Although many people think of computer chess in terms of man versus
machine, you should note that humans are doing something completely different from computers when they try to play a chess game. It doesn’t matter
who plays better any more than it matters that an automobile can go faster
than the best human sprinter in the world. What does matter, however, is
that computers play chess extremely well, and they’ll play you whenever you
want to, day or night, fair weather or foul.
Remember that the computer programmers are humans too — so the real situation isn’t so much human versus machine as it is unarmored human versus
armored human. Humans shouldn’t feel threatened by the exceptional play
of computers; they should take advantage of it! Computers are now essential
allies for all serious players. They spar with you on your timetable, and with
just a few keystrokes, they’ll help you track down just about anything you’d
care to search for.
Of course, the public is intrigued by this man-machine confrontation, just as
people have always been interested in the plight of organic life versus inorganic technology. But the problem is that machines don’t tire. They don’t
worry. They don’t truly compete. The essence of the drama of human competition is missing when a machine is involved — and for that reason, human
chess matches are far more fascinating than those involving the computers.
For more information on the ins and outs of computer chess, go to http://
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_chess.
Chapter 16: Hitting the Net with Computer Chess
A chessmaster sinks in IBM’s Deep Blue
In the 1990s Garry Kasparov, who in my opinion is the greatest player in history, played two matches against IBM’s Deep Blue, which was then the best
playing chess computer. When Deep Blue won the second match, a great deal
of hand wringing ensued.
This loss wasn’t one for humanity, as many believed, but it was a triumph of
research and engineering. Nowadays inexpensive chess programs can run on
an average household PC and routinely defeat all but the very best players.
For more on the match and its implications, go to www.research.ibm.com/
deepblue.
Chess-Playing Computer Programs
Many commercial chess-playing computer programs are available, and the
best one isn’t necessarily the strongest one. Almost all the programs can
defeat 99.9 percent of the tournament players in rapid chess. Most of them
can beat just about anyone, even at slower time controls. You can find any
of the following programs online at www.chesscafe.com, www.chessusa.
com, or at other major chess retailers: Junior, Fritz, Schredder, and Hiarcs. In
addition, the great site www.chessbase.com offers some of the most sophisticated chess software on the planet. Although expensive, this advanced
software is a must for professionals.
The chess world is mostly Windows based. These programs will be noticeably stronger than the ones for other platforms, but Mac users can have their
fun, too. Nowadays, strong programs such as Fritz Powerbook are available
for PDAs. Even cellphones are getting into the act, so there’s no excuse for
not being able to find someone or something to play!
Computer programs are updated frequently, so their version numbers change
from time to time. They all can record and store the games you play with
them for your review later. Of course, reviewing the games you win is more
fun, but reviewing the games you lose is more instructive.
Don’t be discouraged if you lose most of the time. I once called a friend after
I got the latest version of Fritz and jokingly asked for an earlier version.
“Why?” he asked in confusion. “So I can beat it.” I told him, and he chuckled
understandingly.
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Nevertheless, having a program that’s stronger than you are has its advantages. These programs share their evaluations with you so you can see where
they think you made a mistake. They also suggest improvements in your play,
which can be a very useful tool. By studying where you went wrong and considering the programs’ suggestions, you may learn some valuable lessons
that can elevate your future play. The computer’s evaluations may not be
100 percent correct, because no person or thing is, but they’ll inevitably be
helpful.
Chess Databases
A chess database is just like a regular database that sorts information. In this
case, the information relates to chess — chess games, chess players, and so
on. If you want to see all the games that Kasparov played in 1990, for example, you can sort the database to list only those games. The sort combinations are quite extensive and allow you to zero in on your areas of special
interest. Of course, you’re generally charged for the data (the game scores,
often including annotations, which you can play through in their entirety)
and for the program that performs the sort operations. Some game databases
are available online for free, but you have to purchase the larger databases.
Serious chess players care about chess data; they want as many games as possible in a format that makes them easy to both sort and play over. Although
other options are available, Chessbase (www.chessbase.com) has developed
into the industry standard. Chess Assistant also has a loyal following; you can
purchase it online at www.chesscafe.com, www.chessusa.com, or at other
major chess retailers. You can also find a nice free resource at www.chess
games.com.
Electronic Chess Instruction
Over the past several decades, the use of computers as chess-teaching tools
has seen tremendous progress. You can choose from among the old software
standby and my top recommendation, Chess Mentor (go to www.chess.
com for a free downloadable demo or to purchase), or from newcomers that
are specifically designed to teach chess to kids, such as Fritz and Chesster
(www.chessbase.com). New DVDs seem to appear on a daily basis as well.
Sites such as www.chesscafe.com, www.chessusa.com, and those of other
major chess retailers will be well stocked with new arrivals.
The sheer volume of instructional software available makes it impossible to
do any kind of thorough survey, and what’s available is constantly changing.
Chapter 16: Hitting the Net with Computer Chess
Some Web sites give you a bit of insight into what’s on the market and how
well received the new releases have been. The following sites have an enormous amount of useful, up-to-date information, and they all look like they’ll
be around for the foreseeable future. Explore!
⻬ http://chess.about.com
⻬ www.pitt.edu/~schach
⻬ www.chesscenter.com/twic/twic.html
Playing Chess Online
As anyone in this day and age knows, the Internet is always changing. New
sites pop up and old ones go away, especially in the chess world. Search
engines can help you find new sites, and most sites point to others, which
point to others, and so on. But at the time of this writing, the following sites,
which I’ve divided into two main categories, seem to get the most hits:
⻬ Pay-to-play sites: The Internet Chess Club (www.chessclub.com) and
Playchess (www.playchess.com) are the most popular, although others
are available. On these sites, you can choose from a wide range of
human and computer opponents.
⻬ Free sites: Pogo (www.pogo.com) and the Free Internet Chess Server
(www.freechess.org) are the most common.
The pay-to-play sites are for serious chess players, so unless you count yourself among them, stick to the free sites. Whether you’re paying to play or
playing for free, you need to register and create an online ID (called your
handle). (Some pay-to-play sites allow you to play as a guest in order to get
you to try their software, but you won’t have full functionality until you
register.)
After you’re registered, when you log on to these sites you see a list of games
in progress and another list of users seeking a game. You’re also allowed to
broadcast your own “seek” to tell others that you’re willing to play. These
seeks specify what time controls you’re willing to use. Many players play
blitz chess, but all sorts of time controls have their adherents.
If you aren’t ready to play, you can still watch. Most of these sites allow you
to click on a game in progress, where you can then follow the action in real
time. The highest level tournaments are broadcast over the Internet nowadays, and millions of eyeballs are tuned in. However, you normally have to be
a registered user at one of the pay-to-play sites in order to join in on the fun.
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You may want to consider a trial membership, which is usually available, just
to see whether a particular site is for you. Commentary by strong players
accompanies many live broadcasts, and there’s usually some way for players
of all abilities to ask questions or make their own observations.
Live lessons are also regularly scheduled, and old ones are archived. So
you have other reasons to join rather than simply to play. But the play is the
best part. Finding regular sparring partners who are roughly your equal in
strength is one of the real joys of chess on the Internet. You can make enduring friendships with people whom you would otherwise never have met. Go
ahead — log on!
Chapter 17
Got Notation? Reading and
Writing about Chess
In This Chapter
䊳 Labeling each piece
䊳 Recording moves
䊳 Singling out a piece when two are in question
䊳 Putting in your two cents about a game
䊳 Finding chess in your daily paper
C
hess notation has an important role in the world of chess because it preserves the game’s history. It allows people to record games for posterity
and gives them the chance to review the history of the game’s development
to date. Notation also allows people to overcome language barriers and communicate with one another in a universally understood manner. As such, official competitions require that someone record every single move with it —
but, fortunately, you don’t have to mess with it when you’re playing for fun!
Even so, the notation is good to know because it enables players to communicate concisely and enables you to become a more learned part of the chess
community.
Many kinds of chess notation exist, from forsythe (a notation that computers
understand) to different notations for various languages. One kind of notation, however, is universally understood: algebraic, which uses a single letter
and number to name each square and a letter for each chess piece. This notation system replaced the older English descriptive notation — which used an
abbreviated form of a verbal description of the moves — because chess is for
all people, not just English-speaking people.
Although algebraic notation looks goofy and is hard to make sense of at first,
believe me, getting used to it takes just a little bit of practice. This notation
tries to keep things as simple as possible, but some situations that arise may
still be confusing. Some people use the fewest characters possible while still
avoiding ambiguity, and others spell out moves in more detail. In this book, I
lean more to the spell-it-out side.
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Keeping Track of the Pieces
As with each square for a chessboard, each chess piece also needs to be
referred to by some notation. The king is indicated by K, the knight by N
(because K is already taken!), and so on. The pawn, poor thing, doesn’t have
any identification. If the notation, which I get into in the next section, doesn’t
indicate a piece, you can assume that the move in question involves a pawn.
Table 17-1 shows the notation for the pieces.
Table 17-1
Chess Piece Notation
Piece
Notation
King
K
Queen
Q
Bishop
B
Knight
N
Rook
R
The letters must be capitalized to indicate a piece; otherwise, they indicate a
square.
Writing the Moves of a Game
You can write any conceivable chess move by using algebraic notation.
Every piece is identified, and so is every square. A complete description of
the game is called the score of the game, and the paper you write the score
on is called the score sheet.
Describing a typical opening
Take a look at how algebraic notation works in practice by examining one of
the most common openings, the Ruy Lopez, or Spanish, game. Each move is
numbered and includes one move by white and one move by black. The
opening moves of the Ruy Lopez are written as follows:
1. e4
e5
2. Nf3
Nc6
3. Bb5
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess
White moves first, followed by black, so it follows that white’s first move was
to e4, and black’s was to e5.
Remember, the absence of a piece designation (a capital letter) indicates a
pawn move. Only one pawn can move to e4 for white and only one to e5 for
black, because pawns must move straight forward. (Chapter 2 tells you all
about a pawn’s available moves.) Figure 17-1 shows where white and then
black moved their pawns.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 17-1:
The first 3
moves of
the Ruy 2
Lopez.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
For the second set of moves, the white knight moves to f3 and the black
knight moves to c6, as shown in Figure 17-2.
8
7
6
Figure 17-2:
The white
knight
gallops to f3,
and the
black knight
trots to c6.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Now, white moves the bishop out to attack the knight. Remember that a capital B means bishop, and a lowercase b refers to the b-file. Figure 17-3 shows
the white bishop moving out to the b5 square.
Notice that I didn’t give the corresponding black move in the notation for the
third step of the Ruy Lopez opening. You’ll often see this omission in chess
books when a move by white lends itself to a comment. Because I give the
white move alone, I can also give the black move alone (but still next to a “3”
because it’s part of the third set of moves). However, if I give the black move
alone, I need to precede it with an ellipsis (...), which is the conventional way
of indicating a stand-alone move by black.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 17-3: 3
The white
bishop 2
moves to b5.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Indicating captures
To indicate a capture with chess notation, you use an x along with the name
of the square where the capture is made. To set up a situation that’s ripe for
capture, imagine a game that begins with white moving a pawn to e4, followed by a black pawn move to e5. White then moves another pawn to d4.
The notation looks like this:
1. e4
e5
2. d4
Figure 17-4 shows these first few moves.
Now black has the option of capturing the white pawn on d4 with its pawn.
This capture is written as follows, and Figure 17-5 illustrates it. (Remember
that a black move written without the preceding white move is indicated by
the use of the ellipsis, as I’ve done here.)
2. ...exd (or 2. ...exd4, which is more precise)
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess
8
7
6
Figure 17-4:
White and
black face
off, and a
white pawn
steps out to
d4.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Either notation is correct, because the black pawn can only capture on that
one square on the d-file (see Chapter 2 for more on capturing). You may also
have noticed that only the file (e), not the file-rank (e5), of the attacking pawn
is given. You can leave off the rank because black has just one pawn on this
e-file, so the rank is understood.
8
7
6
5
Figure 17-5: 4
The black
e-file pawn 3
catches the
white d-file 2
pawn.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Sometimes, in place of the notation 2. ... exd, you’ll see simply 2. ...ed (minus
the x). People who write notation this way don’t think that indicating captures is necessary, but most people feel that using the x to indicate a capture
makes it easier to follow the game. In any case, you may see either convention used in other chess books.
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Noting an exchange and a castle
To go back to the Ruy Lopez for a moment, one common variation is called
the exchange variation. This situation occurs when white captures the black
knight with the bishop (or exchanges the bishop for the knight; see Chapter 3
for info on exchanges). Set the pieces back to their starting positions and see
whether you can follow some of this notation on your own chessboard:
1. e4
e5
2. Nf3
Nc6
3. Bb5
a6
4. Bxc6
If you were able to follow those preceding moves, you can tell that white, on
its fourth move, captures the black knight that occupied c6. Figure 17-6
shows the result of this capture.
8
7
6
5
Figure 17-6: 4
The white
bishop 3
captures the
black knight 2
on c6.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Now, black can capture the white bishop with one of two pawns. Black
decides to capture the bishop with its pawn from d7, so the notation is written like so:
4. ...dxc6
Take a peek at Figure 17-7 to see the result of all this action.
Suppose, however, that black decides to take the bishop with his pawn from
the b7 square instead. Back up one step as I show you this variation.
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess
8
7
6
Figure 17-7:
The black
pawn on d7
captures the
foolhardy
white
bishop
on c6.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If black captures the bishop with the pawn on b7, the notation should read
like this:
4. ...bxc6
Figure 17-8 illustrates this setback for the white bishop.
8
7
6
Figure 17-8:
The black
pawn on b7
captures the
white
bishop
on c6.
5
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
White’s next move may be to castle on the kingside (see Chapter 10 for
castling details). The notation for castling on the kingside is 0-0, but the notation for castling on the queenside is 0-0-0. White’s action (see Figure 17-9),
then, is written like this:
5. 0-0
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8
7
6
5
4
Figure 17-9: 3
White
castles on 2
the kingside.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
If you don’t need a chessboard to follow the preceding notation, you may be
ready for blindfold chess, where you play a game without sight of the board
just by calling out the notation!
Recording a pawn promotion
You may play lots of games without ever promoting a pawn (see Chapter 10
for this special move), but if you do end up doing it, you’ll need to be able to
write the move down correctly.
Notation accounts for the promotion of a pawn by adding the piece designation to the move. For example, if on your 40th move you play your pawn to
the eighth rank on the b-file and promote it to a queen, you write 40. b8Q. If
you promote to a bishop, for some reason, you write 40. b8B.
Accounting for Ambiguities (Which
Knight, for Pete’s Sake?)
What if two pieces can capture on, or move to, the same square? In Figure
17-10, you see that two knights can move to the same square, d2. Chess players solve that potential dilemma by adding the file to the piece designation,
as in N/bd2. This notation means that the knight standing on the b-file is the
one that moves to d2.
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess
8
7
6
5
Figure 17-10:
Both knights
can move to
the square
marked
by X.
4
3
x
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
So what do you write if two knights on the b-file can move to d2 (as in Figure
17-11)? To indicate which knight moves in that case, write the entire designation of the originating square: N/b3d2. Or for clarity’s sake, you can add a
hyphen: N/b3-d2. This notation means that the knight on b3 moves to d2.
Don’t worry, this situation doesn’t happen all that often! (But when it does,
the pesky knights are usually the culprits.)
When capturing en passant, you may have two pawns that can make the
same capture. This situation isn’t ambiguous, however, because you always
indicate the originating file that the capturing pawn is on (exd, for example).
Very, very rarely, however, it’s possible to have two pawns on a file, one that
can capture en passant, and one that can capture normally. This case is
handled by adding the abbreviation e.p. to the notation, as in exd e.p., for
example. The lack of the trailing e.p. indicates that the other pawn on that
file made the capture.
8
7
6
5
Figure 17-11:
4
The knight
on b3 moves 3
to the Xmarked 2
square.
1
x
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
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Commenting on a Game after the Fact
Some notation marks don’t apply when you’re writing down your moves during
a game, but you can use them to annotate a game (that is to say, to comment
about a game that has been played previously). These annotations, which usually include symbols, were made to enhance the reader’s ability to understand
a game and are used in chess books, magazines, and newspaper columns. See
Table 17-2 for the most commonly used annotations and their definitions.
Table 17-2
Chess Annotation
Annotation
Definition
!
A good move
!!
A very good move
?
A bad move
??
A very bad move
1-0
White won the game
0-1
Black won the game
1
⁄2
The game was a draw
+/-
White is considered to have the advantage
-/+
Black is considered to have the advantage
=
The position is considered to be equal
+
Check
#
Checkmate
Nowadays, software exists to help you place these symbols after moves that
deserve special mention, but you can always write on your score sheet the
old fashioned way. You wouldn’t call attention to a normal move, such as
1. e4, but you might want to give 1. Na3 a question mark because it’s a dubious way to open a chess game. The ten games in Chapter 18 are annotated
and use symbols.
Reading Newspaper Diagrams
Many newspapers carry daily or weekly columns about chess. Newspapers
usually have space constraints for the info they can include, however, so they
Chapter 17: Got Notation? Reading and Writing about Chess
typically give one game and one diagram of a position of special interest. All
newspapers show white positioned at the bottom of the diagram and moving
up, with black at the top and moving down (like the figures in this book).
Typically, the paper will tell you who’s on the move, but if it doesn’t, you can
assume white is on the move (see Figure 17-12 for a sample of chess in the
newspaper).
Figure 17-12:
A typical
newspaper
chess game
diagram.
Keeping score
In a tournament game, both players are required
to write down all the moves (called “keeping a
game score”). This scorekeeping helps the director settle potential disputes. For example, if one
player claims a draw because the same position
has occurred three times (a draw according to the
rules), the director would use the players’ score
sheet to decide whether this is actually the case.
This written record is also used to determine
whether players have made the minimum number
of moves in a given time period, which is called
the time limit and is specified at the start of every
competition.
Some grandmasters are notorious for their poor
handwriting, and it’s impossible to make heads
or tails of their score sheets. Tournament officials usually rely on the opponent’s score sheet
in order to reconstruct the game.
(continued)
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Part IV: Getting Into Advanced Action
(continued)
Part V
The Part of Tens
E
In this part . . .
very For Dummies book has a part that features lists
of ten good-to-know facts, tips, or whatever, so of
course I was eager to jump on the bandwagon. In this
part, I give you the rundown on the most famous chess
games ever played. I provide the complete notation so
you can follow along with your own board and chess set
and recap the games in your own living room. I also present the best players of all time, which is always a good
way to begin an argument. Most chess players have their
favorites, and I’m no different.
Chapter 18
The Ten Most Famous
Chess Games
In This Chapter
䊳 Going one-on-one with flesh and blood: human versus human
䊳 Competing with an electronic brain
䊳 Showing up the whole wide world
S
ome games are a part of chess players’ common chess heritage, including the ten I detail for you in this chapter. Every game here will be familiar to some extent to just about every tournament player (in fact, some of
them are so well known that they even have names!), and being able to speak
intelligently about them is important. This knowledge establishes your reputation as a good talker — if not a good player!
Most of these games are from a long time ago; older games appear so often in
lists such as this for several reasons. First, older games have all been included
in many more references than the newer ones, and more people are likely to
have studied them. Second, everyone today can understand these games —
but some of the best games of recent years are more difficult to follow. Lastly,
players of long ago didn’t understand defense as well as players do today, and
their lack of defense led to amazing games that are simply unlikely to occur in
modern competition.
Of course, many people will have different lists of the top-ten most famous
games (maybe even David Letterman!), but the ones in this chapter are the
most important to me.
Understanding the Games
In order to enjoy the games in this chapter, you must understand chess notation, which details the moves, and annotation, which is commentary on those
moves. See Chapter 17 for my explanation of this notation (and get out your
board so that you can follow along better).
278
Part V: The Part of Tens
When chess players write about chess games, we tend to follow a few simple
conventions:
⻬ The player who played white is listed first.
⻬ The place and year of the game are included if known.
⻬ The name of the chess opening is included.
⻬ The comments refer to the moves that precede them.
For you grammatical types, please note that chess players don’t always spell
out complete sentences. The notated moves themselves are often a part of
the comment that follows them.
Interestingly enough, for a class of people who claim to be logical, the names of
the chess openings are often a subject of debate. This situation is sort of similar to a bunch of scientists fighting for credit for inventing or discovering the
same thing. Quite often, the decision of what to call the opening just comes
down to a matter of personal preference. In this book, I use the names that are
commonly accepted by chess players in the United States.
Conventions such as these make it easier to know which game in particular
you’re reading about. After all, Garry Kasparov and Anatoly Karpov have
played more than 160 games of chess against each other. We have to have
some way of differentiating among them!
Annotating a famous game is always dangerous. Not only can you be wrong,
but you may break the spell these games cast over people the first time they
see them. However, I’ve found it worth taking the risk in most cases, because,
for many people, some explanation is better than none.
Adolf Anderssen versus Lionel
Kieseritzky: The Immortal Game
London, 1851 (King’s Gambit)
Nowhere is it more evident than in the Immortal Game that the players of the
mid-1800s loved attack first and material last!
1. e4
e5
2. f4
exf4
3. Bc4
Qh4+
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
Anderssen wants to develop rapidly, even if it means losing the right to castle.
4. Kf1
b5
Kieseritzky shows an equal disdain for anything other than rapid development.
5. Bxb5
Nf6
6. Nf3
Qh6
Most analysts have roundly criticized this move by Kieseritzky, but the
German grandmaster Robert Hübner has demonstrated that it’s better than
the suggested 6. ...Qh5.
7. d3
Hübner suggests that 7. Nc3 is better.
7. ...Nh5
The move 7. ...Bc5 has been suggested as superior. However, don’t take these
suggestions as evidence that these players weren’t very good. Anderssen and
Kieseritzky were simply playing by the principles that were understood at the
time. Rapid development and attack were all that really mattered to them.
8. Nh4
This move is sometimes praised as an example of Anderssen’s great feel for
the attack, but other analysts have decided that 8. Rg1 was even better.
8. ...Qg5
9. Nf5
c6
This last move attacks the bishop and unpins the queen pawn, but perhaps
9. ...g6 — immediately attacking the overly aggressive knight — was better.
10. g4
Hübner suggests that 10. Ba4 was more circumspect.
10. ...Nf6
Again, Kieseritzky should play g6, attacking the knight.
11. Rg1
11. ...cxb5
279
280
Part V: The Part of Tens
Black violates the principle of development over material! This is an interesting error by Kieseritzky and, according to Hübner, the decisive mistake. He
suggests 11. ...h5.
12. h4
Qg6
13. h5
Qg5
14. Qf3
Ng8
15. Bxf4
Qf6
16. Nc3
Bc5
17. Nd5
The move 17. d4 would gain a tempo, but then the game wouldn’t have this
brilliant finish.
17. ...Qxb2 (See Figure 18-1.)
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-1:
Black 3
threatens
the rook 2
on a1.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
18. Bd6
Almost every text gives this move two exclamation points in honor of its brilliance. Hübner, however, gives no fewer than three better moves and gives
the move a question mark. Nevertheless, it leads to the following immortal
conclusion:
18. ...Bxg1
19. e5
Qxa1+
20. Ke2
Na6
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
21. Nxg7+
Kd8
22. Qf6+
Nxf6
23. Be7#
The way that Anderssen combined his few remaining pieces in such a way as
to overcome Kieseritzky’s huge remaining army is most remarkable. Even if
Anderssen and Kieseritzky didn’t play the absolute best moves, they certainly
played the most entertaining ones!
Adolf Anderssen versus J. Dufresne:
The Evergreen Game
Berlin, 1852 (Evans Gambit)
1. e4
e5
2. Nf3
Nc6
3. Bc4
Bc5
4. b4
Bxb4
5. c3
Ba5
6. d4
exd4
7. 0-0
The Evans Gambit was an old favorite of the Romantic-age players and is still
dangerous today. White sacrifices material for an advantage in development
and open lines for the pieces.
7. ...d3
Dufresne’s response is weak. Either 7. ...dxc or 7. ...d6 would’ve been better.
8. Qb3
Qf6
9. e5
Qg6
The pawn is immune to capture. If 9. ...Nxe5, 10. Re1 d6, 11.Qb5+ picks up a
piece.
10. Re1
Nge7
11. Ba3
b5
281
282
Part V: The Part of Tens
In those days, development was considered to be more important than puny
amounts of material.
12. Bxb5
Rb8
13. Qa4
Bb6
14. Nbd2
Bb7
15. Ne4
Qf5
This position is difficult to play correctly, but this last move is simply a waste
of time.
16. Bxd3
Qh5
Now Anderssen begins one of the most famous combinations in all of chess
history.
17. Nf6+!
gxf6
18. exf6
Rg8
19. Rad1!
Obviously, Anderssen has already conceived of the brilliant finish.
19. ...Qxf3 (See Figure 18-2.)
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-2: 3
White to
move and 2
win. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
One can only speculate whether Dufresne ever saw Anderssen’s combination
coming!
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
20. Rxe7+
Nxe7
21. Qxd7+!
Kxd7
22. Bf5+!
Ke8
23. Bd7+
Kf8
24. Bxe7#
Paul Morphy versus Duke Karl of
Braunschweig and Count Isouard
Paris (at the Opera), 1858 (Philidor Defense)
This offhand game is one of the most instructive examples of how to develop
rapidly and attack. It was what chess players refer to as a consultation game,
where one player (in this case, Morphy) plays against two opponents, who
are allowed to help one another select black’s moves. Legend has it that the
duke was roundly criticized in the next day’s papers for playing a game of
chess at the opera!
1. e4
e5
2. Nf3
d6
3. d4
Bg4
A weak move, but one that has a certain logic to it. The white knight and
pawn are attacking black’s pawn on e5. Black’s pawn is defended by only the
d6 pawn. Instead of bringing up another defender (say, with 3. ...Nd7), black
chooses to pin the knight. The drawback to this idea is that white has a tactic
at its disposal that forces black to trade the bishop for the knight.
4. dxe5
Bxf3
Not 4. ...dxe5, 5. Qxd8+ Kxd8, 6. Nxe5 winning a pawn.
5. Qxf3
dxe5
Material balance has been restored, but Morphy already has one piece developed (the queen) and can now develop another. Morphy has a lead in development and the advantage of the two bishops.
6. Bc4
Nf6
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284
Part V: The Part of Tens
Black must guard against the threatened capture on f7.
7. Qb3
Qe7
Morphy, with his move, renews the threat to capture on f7, and his opponents
are forced to guard against it (by moving the queen) on their turn. This move
guards f7 but blocks the king’s bishop. Morphy’s edge in development continues to grow.
8. Nc3
c6
Morphy could’ve won a pawn by 8. Qxb7, but after 8. ...Qb4+ he would’ve been
forced to trade queens. Morphy correctly decides that continuing his development (because his advantage lies in that element) is more important than winning a pawn. Black takes a moment to guard the b7 square with 8. ...c6, which
is a necessary precaution, but this move doesn’t help his development.
9. Bg5
b5?
Another pawn move! This time Morphy decides that the time is ripe for
sacrifice.
10. Nxb5!
cxb5
11. Bxb5+
Nbd7
12. 0-0-0
Rd8
Both knights are pinned, and black can barely move, but how is white to
capitalize?
13. Rxd7!
Rxd7
Now Morphy has sacrificed a rook for two pawns, but his lead in development is so overwhelming that the material deficit is immaterial! Notice that
the black king’s rook and bishop have yet to move.
14. Rd1
Qe6
Duke Karl and Count Isouard reason that if they can trade queens, they’ll survive the attack and win with their extra material. Morphy never gives them
the chance.
15. Bxd7+
Nxd7 (See Figure 18-3.)
16. Qb8+
Nxb8
The final sacrifice is of the queen, but Morphy willingly parts with her for
checkmate!
17. Rd8#
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-3: 3
It’s the
queen’s 2
turn. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Wilhelm Steinitz versus
Kurt Von Bardeleben
Hastings (England), 1895 (Italian Game)
This game is famous for the concluding combination and for the report that
Von Bardeleben didn’t bother to resign but simply got up and walked away
without a word.
1. e4
e5
2. Nf3
Nc6
3. Bc4
Bc5
4. c3
Nf6
5. d4
exd4
6. cxd4
Bb4+
7. Nc3
d5
Steinitz (white) was willing to sacrifice a pawn (or more!) in return for a lead in
development. Von Bardeleben declines the offer to win material (by 7. ...Nxe4)
and immediately strikes back in the center. The struggle then shifts to a fight
for control of d5.
8. exd5
Nxd5
9. 0-0
Be6
285
286
Part V: The Part of Tens
Steinitz was again willing to sacrifice a pawn (9. ...Nxc3, 10. bxc3 Bxc3) in return
for speedy development, and again Von Bardeleben prefers to concentrate on
reinforcing his control over what he perceives to be the key square, d5.
10. Bg5
Be7
Steinitz develops with a threat (by attacking the black queen), which is usually very strong. Von Bardeleben must take a moment to defend against the
threat. Now both white and black have four pieces developed, but white has
also castled and is on the move.
11. Bxd5
Bxd5
12. Nxd5
Qxd5
13. Bxe7
Nxe7
14. Re1
f6
Steinitz initiated the preceding series of exchanges for a very subtle reason.
Now Von Bardeleben can’t castle, because he needs his king to guard the
knight. He now hopes to escape his predicament by playing his king to f7 and
then a rook to e8, but does he have time to do so?
15. Qe2
Qd7
16. Rac1
c6
If 16. ...Kf7 at once, 17. Qc4+ followed by 18. Qxc7 would win a pawn for white.
17. d5!
cxd5
Steinitz has sacrificed the d-pawn in order to clear the d4 square for his
knight. The time gained to bring the knight into the attack is worth more than
the pawn. Notice how Von Bardeleben’s rooks still stand on their original
squares.
18. Nd4
Kf7
19. Ne6
Rhc8
Steinitz was threatening to invade with 20. Rc7.
20. Qg4
g6
Von Bardeleben must guard against 21. Qxg7+ Ke8, 22. Qf8#
21. Ng5+
Ke8 (See Figure 18-4.)
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-4: 3
The
impervious 2
rook.
1
a
b
22. Rxe7+
c
d
e
f
g
h
Kf8
An extraordinary situation. Black can’t capture the white rook, but white
can’t capture the black queen! If 22. ...Qxe7, 23. Rxc8+ (or 22. ...Kxe7, 23. Re1+
Kd8, 24. Ne6+) wins for white, but 23. Rxd7 (or Qxd7 ) Rxc1# wins for black!
Now a comical series of moves takes place where Steinitz’s impudent rook
essentially thumbs its nose at Von Bardeleben’s king.
23. Rf7+
Kg8
Not 23. ...Kd8, 24. Qxd7#
24. Rg7+
Kh8
25. Rxh7+
Kg8
26. Rg7+
Kh8
Steinitz’s checks haven’t been without purpose. Now that Von Bardeleben’s hpawn has been eliminated, Steinitz can bring the queen into the attack with
check. White must not allow black to play Rxc1+, which mates quickly, so keeping the black king in check is critical. By replacing the harassing rook with a
marauding queen, white increases his attacking force by a decisive amount.
27. Qh4+
Kxg7
28. Qh7+
Kf8
29. Qh8+
Ke7
30. Qg7+
Ke8
287
288
Part V: The Part of Tens
If 30. ...Kd6, 31. Ne4+ dxe4, 32. Rd1+ removes the mate threat and wins the
black queen.
31. Qg8+
Ke7
32. Qf7+
Kd8
33. Qf8+
Qe8
34. Nf7+
Kd7
35. Qd6#
Von Bardeleben walked away from the board without playing out the final
sequence, which is bad manners but understandable in this case. He must’ve
been completely frustrated by his inability to move anything other than his
king for so long.
Georg Rotlewi versus Akiba Rubinstein
Lodz (Poland), Russia, 1907 (Tarrasch Defense)
This game is another one where the few remaining black pieces combine to
overwhelm the vastly superior white pieces. Rubinstein’s combination is
remarkable in that he continues to offer material right up until the end; as
such, the game is known as Rubinstein’s Immortal Game.
1. d4
d5
2. Nf3
e6
3. e3
c5
4. c4
Nc6
5. Nc3
Nf6
6. dxc5
Bxc5
7. a3
a6
8. b4
Bd6
9. Bb2
0-0
10. Qd2
Qe7
11. Bd3
dxc4
Rotlewi (white) and Rubinstein have adopted very similar setups. The setups
have two subtle differences, however, both of which favor black. The first is
that black waited to play 11. ...dxc4 until after white’s king bishop moved, and
this strategic delay gained a tempo for black. The second difference is that
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
the black queen is better placed on e7 than white’s queen on d2. Black’s
queen is safe, while the white queen is exposed on the open d-file. Are these
small advantages enough to allow black to win? Maybe — and maybe only if
your name is Rubinstein.
12. Bxc4
b5
13. Bd3
Rd8
14. Qe2
Bb7
As you can see, the positions are almost mirror images of one another. The
difference is that Rubinstein has already castled and played his rook to d8.
Clearly, black has gotten an advantage in development out of the opening.
15. 0-0
Ne5
16. Nxe5
Bxe5
17. f4
Bc7
Is Rotlewi gaining an edge in the center, or is Rubinstein provoking weaknesses in the white king’s position?
18. e4
Rac8
19. e5
Bb6+
20. Kh1
Ng4
The safety of white’s king is clearly the most critical element at the moment.
21. Qxg4 Rxd3 is clearly better for black.
21. Be4
Qh4
22. g3 (See Figure 18-5.)
22. ...Rxc3!
A remarkable sacrifice of a queen that white can’t refuse. If 23. Bxc3 Bxe4+,
24. Qxe4 Qxh2#.
23. gxh4
Rd2!
Sacrificing a queen wasn’t enough for Rubinstein. He now throws a rook into
the mixture.
24. Qxd2
Bxe4+
25. Qg2
Rh3!
And checkmate by ...Rxh2 is unavoidable. Notice that the white queen on g2
is pinned. Rubinstein wins!
289
290
Part V: The Part of Tens
8
7
6
5
Figure 18-5:
Black’s
queen is
threatened
by white’s
g-pawn.
4
3
2
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Stepan Levitsky versus Frank Marshall
Breslau (Poland), 1912 (French Defense)
After Marshall’s 23. ...Qg3!! move, the spectators were said to have showered
the board with gold pieces! Although legends are more fun to believe in, it
should be noted that the chess journalist and international master I. A.
Horowitz reports that Marshall’s wife, Caroline, “disclaims even a shower
of pennies.”
1. d4
e6
2. e4
d5
3. Nc3
c5
4. Nf3
Nc6
5. exd5
exd5
6. Be2
Nf6
7. 0-0
Be7
8. Bg5
0-0
9. dxc5
Be6
10. Nd4
Bxc5
11. Nxe6
fxe4
12. Bg4
Qd6
13. Bh3
Rae8
14. Qd2
Bb4
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
Marshall now threatens 15. ...Ne4, which prompts Levitsky to exchange his
bishop for black’s knight. As a result, Marshall’s pieces are more aggressively
posted, and he’s ahead in development. How can he translate this advantage
into victory?
15. Bxf6
Rxf6
16. Rad1
Qc5
17. Qe2
Bxc3
18. bxc3
Qxc3
19. Rxd5
Nd4
By exploiting the pin on the e-file, Levitsky has retained material balance, but
Marshall again gains time by centralizing the knight along with an attack on
white’s queen.
20. Qh5
Ref8
21. Re5
Rh6
Marshall again repositions a piece with a gain of time by the attack on the
queen. The black pieces are now optimally posted for tactics.
22. Qg5
Rxh3
Levitsky can’t play 23. gxh3 because of 23. ...Nf3. Instead, he wants to play 23.
Rc5 and 24. Rc7 with an attack of his own.
23. Rc5 (See Figure 18-6.)
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-6: 3
Black to
move and 2
win. 1
a
b
23. ...Qg3!!
c
d
e
f
g
h
291
292
Part V: The Part of Tens
Levitsky resigns! Levitsky has no fewer than three different ways (shown here
with asterisks) to capture Marshall’s queen — but all of them lose:
*24. hxg3
Ne2#
*24. fxg3
Ne2+
25. Kh1
Rxf1#
*24. Qxg3
Ne2+
25. Kh1
Nxg3+
And Levitsky can’t recapture with 26. fxg3 because of 26. ...Rxf1#.
Emanuel Lasker versus
José Raúl Capablanca
St. Petersburg (Russia), 1914 (Ruy Lopez, Exchange Variation)
This historical encounter pitted the world champion Emanuel Lasker against
the sensational young José Raúl Capablanca. Lasker proved that he wasn’t
yet ready to roll over and die before the next generation. Besides the historical significance of the game, this match is noteworthy for Lasker’s simple
winning strategy, seemingly flowing right from the opening. Simple for him,
that is! What this game lacks in brilliant combinations is made up for by the
sheer elegance of Lasker’s play.
1. e4
e5
2. Nf3
Nc6
3. Bb5
a6
4. Bxc6
dxc6
5. d4
exd4
6. Qxd4
Qxd4
7. Nxd4
Bd6
8. Nc3
Ne7
9. 0-0
0-0
Both sides have developed pieces and castled. Lasker has an edge in the center
and consequently an advantage in space. He exploits this advantage by seizing
even more space on the kingside. He isn’t opening himself up to attack, as
white did in the previous game. The players have already exchanged so much
material that the chances of a decisive attack are slim.
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
10. f4
Re8
11. Nb3
f6
The threat was 12. e5, trapping the black bishop.
12. f5
b6
13. Bf4
Bb7
14. Bxd6
cd
Lasker doesn’t mind repairing Capablanca’s damaged pawn structure because
he has his sights set on the e6 square for his knight.
15. Nd4
Rad8
16. Ne6
Rd7
17. Rad1
Nc8
Notice how Capablanca’s pieces are struggling to defend the d6 pawn without
getting in each other’s way. This dilemma is often the consequence of having
a spatial disadvantage.
18. Rf2
b5
19. Rfd2
Rde7
20. b4
Kf7
21. a3
Ba8
Lasker has control over the center and has slowed Capablanca’s advance on
the queenside. He now improves the position of his king and seizes more
space on the kingside.
22. Kf2
Ra7
23. g4
h6
24. Rd3
a5
25. h4
axb4
26. axb4
Rae7
27. Kf3
Rg8
28. Kf4
g6
29. Rg3
g5+
30. Kf3
Nb6
31. hxg5
hxg5
293
294
Part V: The Part of Tens
Lasker has now opened the h-file and takes control of it with a rook.
32. Rh3
Rd7
33. Kg3
Ke8
34. Rdh1
Bb7
Capablanca hopes that his position is defensible and merely marks time, but
Lasker now takes the opportunity to bring his queenside knight into the
game, even at the cost of a pawn.
35. e5!
dxe5
36. Ne4
Nd5
37. N6c5
Bc8
Capablanca can’t guard everything and decides to give up a rook for one
of the pesky knights. Lasker retains his trumps — the h-file and the spatial
advantage — and now adds a slight material edge to the equation.
38. Nxd7
Bxd7
39. Rh7
Rf8
40. Ra1
Kd8
41. Ra8+
Bc8
42. Nc5
Capablanca resigns, because 43. Ne6+ is devastating.
Donald Byrne versus Robert J. Fischer
New York, 1956 (Grünfeld Defense)
Here, the young Bobby Fischer plays one of the greatest games of all time.
This game was quickly dubbed the game of the century, but it was certainly
played in the spirit of the last century.
1. Nf3
Nf6
2. c4
g6
3. Nc3
Bg7
4. d4
0-0
5. Bf4
d5
6. Qb3
dxc4
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
7. Qxc4
c6
8. e4
Nbd7
9. Rd1
Nb6
10. Qc5
Bg4
This position is an interesting one. Byrne seems to have complete control
over the center, which normally leads to an advantage, but notice that
Fischer has completed the development of his minor pieces and castled.
Byrne’s king’s bishop and rook are still on their original squares; he should
attend to his development and not bother with his next move, which meets
with a tactical response.
11. Bg5?
Na4!
If Byrne now plays 12. Nxa4 Nxe4, 13. Qc1 Qa5+ wins a pawn.
12. Qa3
Nxc3
13. bxc3
Nxe4
14. Bxe7
Qb6
Fischer is willing to sacrifice his rook for white’s bishop in return for an
attack against white’s king. Byrne decides to forgo the win of material in
order to try to castle, but Fischer keeps the pressure on and gives him no
time to bring his king to safety.
15. Bc4
Nxc3!
16. Bc5
Rfe8+
17. Kf1 (See Figure 18-7.)
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-7: 3
Black to
move and 2
win. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
295
296
Part V: The Part of Tens
17. ...Be6
An amazing queen sacrifice justified by the white king’s precarious position
and black’s lead in development! 18. Bxe6 would be met by 18. ...Qb5+.
18. Bxb6
Bxc4+
19. Kg1
Ne2+
20. Kf1
Nxd4+
21. Kg1
Ne2+
22. Kf1
Nc3+
23. Kg1
axb6
Black takes time out to capture the bishop because it doesn’t lose any time.
The capture includes a threat to capture the white queen on black’s next move.
24. Qb4
Ra4
25. Qxb6
Nxd1
26. h3
Rxa2
Fischer continues to gobble up material while improving the position of his
pieces.
27. Kh2
Nxf2
28. Re1
Rxe1
29. Qd8+
Bf8
30. Nxe1
Bd5
31. Nf3
Ne4
32. Qb8
b5
33. h4
h5
34. Ne5
Kg7
By breaking the pin, Fischer allows the king’s bishop to join in on the final
assault.
35. Kg1
Bc5+
36. Kf1
Ng3+
37. Ke1
Bb4+
38. Kd1
Bb3+
39. Kc1
Ne2+
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
40. Kb1
Nc3+
41. Kc1
Rc2#
Deep Blue versus Garry Kasparov
Philadelphia, 1996 (Sicilian Defense)
There’s no danger in picking this game for the list of the ten best chess
games. Never has a chess game seen as much publicity as this initial match
between IBM’s computer and Garry Kasparov. In the first game of their sixgame match, which I detail in this section, the computer causes a sensation
by defeating the world champion. This was the first time a computer beat a
world champion at regular tournament time controls, and the media all over
the world picked up this story.
1. e4
c5
2. c3
d5
3. exd5
Qxd5
4. d4
Nf6
5. Nf3
Bg4
6. Be2
e6
7. h3
Bh5
8. 0-0
Nc6
9. Be3
cxd4
10. cxd4
Bb4?
This move gets the world champion into trouble. The normal course of action
is to develop the bishop to e7. Kasparov is undoubtedly trying to get the
computer into unknown territory because the computer’s memory contains
all these moves up to this point from previous games. It isn’t “thinking” yet,
just “remembering.” Now it starts its own calculations.
11. a3
Ba5
12. Nc3
Qd6
13. Nb5
Qe7
14. Ne5
Bxe2
15. Qxe2
0-0
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Part V: The Part of Tens
The computer’s advantage is a subtle one. The knights have been allowed to
make two moves each for black knight’s one.
16. Rac1
Rac8
17. Bg5
Bb6
18. Bxf6
gxf6
Forced because 18. ...Qxf6, 19. Nd7 would win material for white.
19. Nc4
Rfd8
Not 19. ...Nxd4, 20. Nxd4 Bxd4 because of 21. Qg4+ and 22. Qxd4. The computer will never miss this kind of tactical trick. Now the computer ruins
Kasparov’s queenside pawn structure — a thing it “knows” is good to do.
20. Nxb6
axb6
21. Rfd1
f5
22. Qe3
Qf6
Kasparov is pressuring the pawn at d4. The computer now makes an excellent decision. Instead of becoming passive by defending the pawn, it chooses
to advance it and attack. Well done!
23. d5
Rxd5
24. Rxd5
exd5
25. b3
Kh8
Kasparov will try to swing his rook to the g-file and attack. The computer correctly assesses that this attack isn’t dangerous and simply begins to “eat”
material on the queenside.
26. Qxb6
Rg8
27. Qc5
d4
28. Nd6
f4
29. Nxb7
Ne5
The computer won’t fall for 30. Qxd4 Nf3+ winning the white queen.
30. Qd5
f3
31. g3
Nd3
32. Rc7
Re8
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
Kasparov’s attack looks very dangerous, but the computer isn’t rattled by
appearances.
33. Nd6
Re1+
34. Kh2
Nxf2
35. Nxf7+
Kg7
36. Ng5+
Kh6
37. Rxh7+
Kasparov resigns in the face of 37. ...Kg6, 38. Qg8+ Kf5, 39. Nxf3, where he has
no threats and Deep Blue has too many. Score: Silicon 1, Carbon 0. Of course,
this setback just made Kasparov mad, and he proceeded to soundly defeat
the computer in the rest of the match.
Kasparov didn’t fare so well in his 1997 rematch with the computer, however:
Deep Blue defeated its human opponent 3.5 to 2.5 in this six-game match. But
don’t jump to the conclusion that Deep Blue’s victory automatically signals
the superiority of computers in such matters. Visit the Web site www.chess.
ibm.com to find out more about this match.
Garry Kasparov versus The World
MSN, 1999 (Sicilian Defense)
Using the Internet to watch live broadcasts of chess games became a popular
pastime in the 1990s. Kasparov in particular generated huge numbers of hits
to sites covering his games. The next step was to use the Internet to let everyone actually play a game against the master. The audience, which included
grandmaster analysts and commentators, got to vote on which moves to play,
and the most popular choices were the ones adopted. This game, which lasted
several months, generated enormous publicity and had a tremendous amount
of participation by both voters and viewers.
1. e4
c5
2. Nf3
d6
3. Bb5+
Bd7
4. Bxd7+
Qxd7
5. c4
Nc6
6. Nc3
Nf6
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Part V: The Part of Tens
7. 0-0
g6
8. d4
cxd4
9. Nxd4
Bg7
Qe6 (See Figure 18-8.)
10. Nde2
This move was new at the time. However, the move gives Kasparov an opportunity to invade with his knight.
8
7
6
5
4
Figure 18-8:
Black seeks 3
to destroy
white’s 2
d-pawn. 1
a
b
c
d
e
f
11. Nd5
Qxe4
12. Nc7+
Kd7
13. Nxa8
Qxc4
g
h
14. Nxb6+
Kasparov despairs of saving the knight and seeks to cripple black’s queenside pawns before losing it.
14. ...axb6
15. Nc3
Ra8
16. a4
Ne4
17. Nxe4
Qxe4
18. Qb3
f5
19. Bg5
Qb4
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
20. Qf7
Be5
21. h3
Rxa4
22. Rxa4
Qxa4
23. Qxh7
Bxb2
24. Qxg6
Qe4
25. Qf7
Bd4
26. Qb3
f4
27. Qf7
Be5
28. h4
b5
29. h5
Qc4
30. Qf5+
Qe6
31. Qxe6+
Kasparov must trade queens in this position if he wants to keep his winning
chances alive. 31. Qd3 would be answered by 31. ...Qg4.
31. ...Kxe6
32. g3
fxg3
33. fxg3
b4
34. Bf4
Bd4+
Kasparov later claimed that 34. ...Bh8 would’ve been sufficient to equalize the
position.
35. Kh1
b3
36. g4
Kd5
37. g5
e6
38. h6
Ne7
39. Rd1
e5
40. Be3
Kc4
41. Bxd4
exd4
42. Kg2
b2
43. Kf3
Kc3
44. h7
Ng6
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Part V: The Part of Tens
45. Ke4
Kc2
46. Rh1
d3
47. Kf5
b1=Q
48. Rxb1
Kxb1
49. Kxg6
d2
50. h8=Q
d1=Q
51. Qh7
Although the world is a pawn ahead, Kasparov has the better chances due to
the advanced nature of his passed pawn on g5 (see Figure 18-9).
8
7
6
5
Figure 18-9: 4
Kasparov’s
passed 3
pawn works
to his 2
advantage.
1
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
51. ...b5
This move is a mistake. Analysis demonstrated that black could’ve drawn by
playing 51. ...Ka1.
52. Kf6+
Kb2
Again, the king should’ve moved to a1. These apparently simple positions can
be devilishly difficult to play correctly.
53. Qh2+
Ka1
54. Qf4
b4
Chapter 18: The Ten Most Famous Chess Games
55. Qxb4
Qf3+
56. Kg7
d5
57. Qd4+
Kb1
58. g6
Qe4
59. Qg1+
Kb2
60. Qf2+
Kc1
61. Kf6
d4
62. g7
1-0
The world resigned, because white’s g-pawn was going to queen and
inevitably win the game.
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Part V: The Part of Tens
Chapter 19
The Ten Best Players of All Time
In This Chapter
䊳 Introducing the top names in chess
䊳 Giving honorable mentions
䊳 Recognizing the could-have-beens
I
f you want to start an argument, picking the ten best players is a good way
to do it. Many people feel very strongly about this particular issue, and
several have written books about it. Elaborate cases have been made to try
to prove who was the best ever by mathematically quantifying their performances and assigning them ratings.
I do no such thing, of course. (That would be too much work!) The way I’ve
decided to judge the best players is by asking a simple question: How much
did they stand above their contemporaries? I think this is the only valid way
to compare players from different generations. Here they are, along with their
life span and country, in the order in which I think they most dominated their
respective eras.
Kasparov, Garry (1963–), Russia
Born in Baku, Azerbaizhan, Garry Kasparov won the world championship in
1985 in the first of several titanic struggles with Anatoly Karpov (see the section on that guy later in this chapter). Not until he was finally defeated in a 2000
match by Vladimir Kramnik did I fully appreciate how dominant he’d been.
Kasparov’s tournament results during his peak, from the mid-’ 80s into the 21st
century, were equally impressive. What moves him to the head of this list is the
fact that he was so much more active than the majority of his predecessors. No
one else demonstrated his or her superiority so convincingly so often.
Kasparov entered only the very strongest tournaments and routinely won
them. Only Karpov could challenge him — and because Karpov is also one of
the ten best players of all time, this restriction only adds to Kasparov’s résumé.
The two players were fierce combatants in what must be considered the greatest chess rivalry of all time.
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Part V: The Part of Tens
Capablanca, José Raúl
(1888–1942), Cuba
José Raúl Capablanca was world champion from 1921 to 1927. Many people
considered him the strongest player in the world prior to 1921, but he was
unable to arrange a match with the then champion, Emanuel Lasker (see the
section on him later in this chapter).
When public sentiment became overwhelming in demand of a match, Lasker
simply tried to resign his title to Capablanca. This behavior seems to add credence to the view that Capablanca was the better player years before the
match finally took place. In fact, beginning in 1914, Capablanca lost only a
single game over the next ten years.
Capablanca’s dominance was so great that he was nicknamed “the chess
machine.” Even great players felt that he was unbeatable. Capablanca eventually became somewhat bored with chess because it was too easy. For him, it
may have been.
Fischer, Robert James (1943–),
United States
In 1971, Robert James Fischer shocked the chess world by winning 19 consecutive games against an extremely high level of competition. This feat has
been compared to throwing back-to-back no-hitters in major league baseball.
During his peak playing period, from the mid-sixties into the early seventies,
players spoke of “Fischer Fever,” where they felt ill just having to play against
him. Just as with Capablanca, Fischer had an aura of invincibility — which
wasn’t far from the truth. Fischer was head and shoulders above the best
players of his day.
His abrupt withdrawal from chess was tragic. Rumors of Fischer sightings
were rampant, and the public was often tantalized by stories of his impending re-emergence. Unfortunately, Fischer waited more than 20 years before
playing in public again. His behavior, always intense, became increasingly
odd over the years, and it’s doubtful that he’ll ever again subject himself to
the rigors of tournament or match chess.
Chapter 19: The Ten Best Players of All Time
Karpov, Anatoly (1951–), Russia
Although Kasparov eventually eclipsed Anatoly Karpov, no one would dream
of leaving Karpov off this list. Karpov won the championship by default when
Fischer refused to defend his title. Many people considered this a black mark
on Karpov’s record because Karpov never actually won the title by playing a
championship match, but I think that’s silly. Perhaps this event is what spurred
him on to incredible achievements in tournament chess in the 1970s and ’80s.
Only the great Viktor Korchnoi was able to test him in match play, but even
he couldn’t beat Karpov, and Karpov dominated the tournament scene. From
1978 to 1981, Karpov played in ten major tournaments and finished clear first,
or in a tie for first, in nine of them. Karpov was clearly the dominant player
after Fischer and before Kasparov.
Morphy, Paul (1837–84), United States
Paul Morphy’s career was meteoric. He burned brightly for a short period of
time, in the mid-19th century, and then never played again. It’s quite sensible
to move him up or down this list depending upon how much or how little you
value longevity.
Morphy defeated all the best players of his day with the exception of Howard
Staunton — who managed to avoid playing Morphy. Most historians give
Staunton no real chance of ever being able to defeat Morphy in a match.
What set Morphy so far above his contemporaries wasn’t that he won but
how he did it. Morphy played scintillating chess. His games still serve as classic examples of how powerful rapid development can be.
After defeating the best and the brightest, Morphy retired from chess to set
up his law practice in New Orleans. Unfortunately, what many believe to have
been serious mental health problems surfaced and haunted him for the
remainder of his days.
Lasker, Emanuel (1868–1941),
Germany
Emanuel Lasker is an interesting case. Some people put him first, and others
put him toward the bottom. The major criticism is that he played infrequently.
The major argument in his favor was that he was world champion from 1894
until 1921 — longer than any other player in history. Many people believe that
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Part V: The Part of Tens
Lasker ducked the toughest opposition, but his tournament and match results
clearly show that he was the world’s best player for a considerable period
of time.
Lasker established his credentials by winning four consecutive major tournaments (these tournaments were infrequent in those days): St. Petersburg
1895–96, Nuremberg 1896, London 1899, and Paris 1900. From 1895 to 1924,
Lasker played in ten major tournaments, finished first eight times, second
once, and third once. This achievement was clearly the best record of anyone
during his time.
Steinitz, Wilhelm (1836–1900),
Austria
The first world champion, Wilhelm Steinitz was considered the best player in
the world for a period of about 20 years. By virtue of his match and tournament record, Steinitz was probably the best player in the world during the
late 1860s and certainly was by the early 1870s. From 1862 to 1894, Steinitz
had an unbroken string of 24 match victories.
It wasn’t until 1886, in a match versus Johann Zukertort, that a winner was
officially given the title of world champion. Steinitz won with a score of ten
wins, five losses, and five draws. He then successfully defended his title several times before losing, at the age of 58, to the young Lasker (see the preceding section).
Alekhine, Alexander (1892–1946),
Russia
Alexander Alekhine was single-minded in his pursuit of the world championship, and his drive eventually overcame Capablanca’s skill. Alekhine’s
results were never as dominating as those higher on this list, but he still managed an impressive run. From 1921 through 1927, he competed in 15 major
tournaments and won 8 of them. From 1930 to 1934, he won five strong tournaments but let his weakness for drink get the best of him. He lost the title to
Max Euwe in 1935, primarily because of his poor physical condition.
Alekhine cleaned up his act and won the return match to regain the title,
which he kept until his death. However, his last years were sad ones. His play
was unrecognizable, and his physical condition continued to deteriorate.
Nevertheless, Alekhine belongs on this list by virtue of his many tournament
and match victories.
Chapter 19: The Ten Best Players of All Time
Botvinnik, Mikhail (1911–95), Russia
Mikhail Botvinnik won seven consecutive major tournaments from 1941
to 1948, including the tournament held to determine the champion upon
Alekhine’s death. There’s little doubt that he would’ve defeated Alekhine,
and it seems certain that he was the best player of the 1940s.
Remarkably, Botvinnik was an engineer by profession and didn’t dedicate
himself in chess the way most of the champions had. He lost his title to Vasily
Smyslov in 1957 but won it back in the return match the next year. He then
lost to Mikhail Tal in 1960 but again recaptured the title in the return match.
The return match clause, stating that the champion has a right to a rematch if
defeated, was stricken in 1963 when he lost to Tigran Petrosian, and no one
will ever know whether he would’ve managed to score the hat trick.
Despite a fairly tarnished record in championship match play, Botvinnik was
clearly the best player in the world for many years. None of his challengers
could make that claim.
Tal, Mikhail (1936–92), Latvia
Mikhail Tal barely makes the top ten because health troubles kept him from
performing at peak efficiency. Otherwise, he may have been much higher on
the list. Botvinnik once said, “If Tal would learn to program himself properly,
he would be impossible to play.”
The best of the 18th century?
François-André Danican Philidor (1726–95) of
France was reported to be the best player of his
time, and the surviving games show a striking
superiority to that of most of his contemporaries
in his knowledge of the game. Unfortunately, not
enough information on this time period is available to truly document his dominance, and this
lack of data keeps him from making the top ten.
However, he did author the most influential
chess book of his age, L’analyse des échecs (An
Analysis of Chess), published in London in 1749.
Philidor entered an important choir at the age of
6 and must be considered something of a musical prodigy. He learned chess when the court
musicians had spells of inactivity and passed
the time playing chess. When his voice broke
around the age of 14, he began playing chess in
earnest. Even so, his musical compositions
were numerous, and some of them are even
performed today.
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Part V: The Part of Tens
Tal won the world championship title from Botvinnik in 1960 but lost the
return match. Before this return match, Tal became unwell with kidney trouble but refused to postpone play. He eventually lost one of his kidneys and
was never really well afterwards.
Nevertheless, from 1949 to 1990, Tal played in 55 strong tournaments, winning
or sharing 19 first and 7 second prizes. He won six Soviet championships,
which were some of the strongest tournaments of that time. He also compiled
a record of 59 wins, 31 draws, and only 2 losses in seven Olympiads. Famous
for his intimidating stare, Tal joins Capablanca and Fischer as the most feared
opponents in history. When playing Tal, players were always afraid of winding
up on the losing side of a soon-to-be famous game.
Honorable Mentions
Other world champions must be included in any such list, because they all
were dominant to some extent. Although these players may not appear on
every best-ever list, they deserve consideration:
⻬ Anderssen, Adolf (1818–79), Germany
Although the title of world champion wasn’t established during his day,
Anderssen was arguably the best player of his time and deserves consideration as an honorable mention.
⻬ Euwe, Max (1901–81), Netherlands
⻬ Smyslov, Vasily (1921–), Russia
⻬ Petrosian, Tigran (1929–84), Russia
⻬ Spassky, Boris (1937–) Russia
⻬ Kramnik, Vladimir (1975–), Russia
The Strongest Players Never
to Be World Champion
If you don’t get enough controversy from trying to establish the best players
of all time, ask who was the strongest player to never win the world champion title. That question usually does the trick. The prime candidates, in
chronological order, are as follows.
Chapter 19: The Ten Best Players of All Time
Chigorin, Mikhail (1850–1908), Russia
Mikhail Chigorin played two championship matches with Steinitz and lost both
of them, but these matches were considered to be closely contested, and the
second match in particular could’ve gone either way. In 1893, Chigorin drew a
tremendous fighting match with Siegbert Tarrasch, who also makes this list
(see the next section).
Tarrasch, Siegbert (1862–1934),
Germany
From 1888 to 1892, Siegbert Tarrasch won five consecutive major tournaments. He never challenged Steinitz for the title — although he was certainly
qualified to — reportedly due to his obligations as a medical doctor. When he
finally got his chance against Lasker in 1908, he was past his prime and
soundly beaten.
Pillsbury, Harry Nelson (1872–1906),
United States
Harry Nelson Pillsbury’s first international tournament was Hastings 1895,
one of the strongest and most famous tournaments in history. Unbelievably,
he won the event ahead of Steinitz, Lasker, Chigorin, and Tarrasch. No one
had ever done anything like it before. His career tournament record against
Lasker was four wins, four losses, and four draws — the best result of any of
his contemporaries. His untimely death, due to a terminal illness, may have
been the only obstacle between him and the title.
Rubinstein, Akiba (1882–1961), Poland
In 1912, Akiba Rubinstein won four major tournaments and was clearly at the
top of his game. He then began negotiations with Lasker for a title match.
Sadly, he fared badly in the great tournament in St. Petersburg 1914 and lost his
potential backing. Then World War I broke out; his best opportunity was gone.
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Reshevsky, Samuel (1911–92),
United States
During the years 1935 to 1950, Samuel Reshevsky played in 14 major tournaments and won half of them. He finished lower than third only once. This
record is all the more remarkable because he was only a part-time player and
held a full-time, nonchess job. Born in Poland, he was perhaps the greatest
child prodigy in chess history. He also continued to play at an extremely high
level well into his 70s and once drew a match with Fischer in 1961.
Keres, Paul (1916–75), Estonia
Paul Keres won some of the strongest tournaments in the late 1930s, but the
advent of World War II dashed his title hopes. After the war, he was a candidate for the title no less than seven times but never made it to the finals. His
near misses took on almost tragic proportions.
Korchnoi, Viktor (1931–), Russia
Viktor Korchnoi won four Soviet championships and competed as a candidate many times over the course of his career. He came within a hair’s
breadth of winning the title from Karpov in 1978. Korchnoi was a defector
from the Soviet Union, and all of that country’s resources were used against
him. Of all the players on this list, Korchnoi may have the strongest claim.
Anand, Viswanathan (1969–), India
Viswanathan Anand has strung together an impressive series of tournament
and match wins since 1989. He lost a match to Kasparov in 1995 and has been
denied a second chance at the title only because the chess world has been in
organizational chaos. He’s also proven to be a dominant player in tournaments played at accelerated time controls.
Part VI
Appendixes
I
In this part . . .
n this part, I provide a handy glossary of terms that
you can turn to anytime you need to know what a
chess word means. I also provide a reference to other
chess resources that you can use to find all the latest
in chess-related gear as well as helpful information and
cool places to visit.
Appendix A
A Glossary of Chess
O
ver the years, chess players have developed their own language — well,
terminology — for communicating about the various moves, pieces, and
so on. Bone up on the terms in this glossary, and you’ll be sure to fit in at the
nearest chess club — not to mention you’ll have a much easier time wading
through all the chess books on the market. Of course, you don’t have to take
a test when you reach the very end of this book, so you don’t need to commit
these terms to memory. Just keep this glossary handy so you can find the
information you need at any given moment.
Note: If you encounter chess notation (square c6, 1. e3 Nc7, and so on), you
may want to turn to Chapters 1 and 17, respectively, for a quick lesson on
how to read it. Chess notation is an important — and essential — way to
communicate the game of chess.
action chess: See rapid chess.
active: The description of a move that increases your mobility; also the
description of a piece that is mobile. See also passive.
adjournment: The postponement of play in an unfinished game. At the
adjournment, the player on the move writes down the move on paper and
places it in an envelope that the tournament director or arbiter takes. Hours,
sometimes even days, may pass before an adjourned game is resumed, and
both players (their friends and their computers, too!) are free to analyze the
position during the adjournment.
adjudication: The selection of a winner of an unfinished chess game, made by
a qualified, impartial expert. Adjudication is most common in club games and
team matches because of time constraints.
adjust: To touch a piece or pawn (generally to move it to the center of its
square) without the intention of making an official move. A player should
announce “I adjust” or “J’adoube” (juh-doob) before touching the piece.
See Chapter 15 for information on chess etiquette. See also J’adoube and
touch-move.
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Part VI: Appendixes
algebraic notation: A system of recording the moves of a chess game (first
devised in the 19th century) in which each square on the board has a unique
identifier. From white’s side of the board, the files are letters from a to h
moving from left to right, and the ranks are numbered 1 to 8, moving from
bottom to top. Piece moves are designated by a one-letter abbreviation for
the piece followed by its destination square. Pawn moves are designated by
the destination square alone. Chapter 17 has the details on understanding
algebraic chess notation. See also notation, long algebraic notation, and
descriptive notation.
annotation: Commentary on a chess game that attempts to explain the game
in general terms or by examining alternatives to the moves played. Chapter 17
shows you the annotation symbols and their meanings.
arbiter: A person who (a) ensures that the rules are observed, (b) supervises
the game(s), (c) enforces the rules and his or her own decisions regarding
them, and (d) imposes penalties on players infringing on the rules. See also
international arbiter.
attacking move: An aggressive move that (often) elicits a defensive response.
back rank: A player’s own first rank.
back rank mate: Checkmate delivered by playing a queen or rook to an opponent’s back rank when the king is kept from moving out of check by its own
pawns.
backward pawn: A pawn that has pawns of its own color on adjacent files
only in front of it, so it has no pawn protection of its own.
bad bishop: A bishop whose effectiveness is hampered by its own pawns.
BCA: See British Chess Association.
BCF: See British Chess Federation.
BCF grading system: The chess rating system used in Britain by the British
Chess Federation (BCF). BCF grades and Elo ratings are related by the following formulas: Elo = 8 (BCF) + 600 and BCF = 1⁄8 (Elo) – 75. See also Elo scale.
bishops of opposite colors: Situation where one player has a bishop on the
light squares and the other player has a bishop on the dark squares. Endings
with bishops of opposite colors are often drawn.
bishop pair: Two bishops, usually compared to an opponent’s two knights or
a bishop and knight. In many positions, the bishop pair has a slight advantage
over these other two configurations of minor pieces due to greater mobility.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
blindfold chess: Chess played without seeing the board or pieces. Originally
a player was in fact blindfolded; now in blindfold chess a player usually sits
with his or her back to the board. Famous players who have played simultaneous blindfold chess include François-André Philidor, Paul Morphy, Alexander
Alekhine, and George Koltanowski.
blitz: Chess played very quickly. Each player is given a small amount of time,
commonly five minutes apiece, in which to play the entire game.
blockade: Situation where one side is prevented from advancing. Originally,
Aaron Nimzowitsch used the term to describe the blocking of a pawn by a
piece.
blunder: A bad move that results in checkmate, the loss of material, or a seriously weakened position.
book move: The term for a standard move, one generally recommended in
books cataloging openings or books concerned with the opening in question.
brilliancy: A game containing original, innovative, sometimes surprising
moves.
brilliancy prize: An award given for the best brilliancy at a tournament.
The first brilliancy prize was awarded to Henry Bird in 1876 for his win over
James Mason.
British Chess Association: Organization founded in the mid-19th century that
suffered from Howard Staunton’s active opposition. Officials of the association included Lord Tennyson, Lord Randolph Churchill, Robert Peel, and John
Ruskin. The organization collapsed in the mid-1890s.
British Chess Federation: Founded in 1904 and commonly called the BCF,
this organization governs chess in Great Britain. The BCF organizes the
annual national championship tournaments and participates in Fédération
Internationale des Échecs (FIDE) events such as Olympiads.
Caissa: The goddess (or muse) of chess. Caissa is first mentioned in the 1763
poem “Caissa” by Sir William Jones, based on the medieval poem by Vida,
“Scacchia Ludus” (“The Game of Chess”), in which the character that Jones
calls Caissa is actually named Scacchis.
castling: A single move involving both the king and a rook. Castling kingside
moves the king from e1 (e8 for black) to g1 (g8 for black) and the rook from
h1 (h8 for black) to f1 (f8 for black). Castling queenside moves the king from
e1 (e8 for black) to c1 (c8 for black) and the rook from a1 (a8 for black) to d1
(d8 for black). Castling is only permitted if (a) the king isn’t in check, (b) neither the king nor the relevant rook has previously moved in the game, (c) no
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pieces are between the king and the rook, and (d) none of the squares the
king must move across are attacked by an enemy piece or pawn. See Chapter 10 for an illustrated explanation of castling.
center: The squares e4, e5, d4, and d5. Sometimes the term is also used to
encompass the squares adjacent to these four.
centralization: The act of bringing pieces to the center where they can control the largest amount of the board.
chatrang: The name given by Persians to an early version of chess.
chaturanga: The name of the first game from which modern chess is derived.
Chaturanga is the Sanskrit word for “four-membered,” and when this game
was developed in India in the sixth century, armies had four components:
infantry, cavalry, chariots, and elephants.
cheapo: Slang expression for a swindle or a cheap trick that doesn’t withstand serious scrutiny. See also swindle.
check: An attack on the opponent’s king by either a piece or a pawn. When in
check, a player must do one of the following: (a) move the king out of check,
(b) interpose a piece or pawn, or (c) capture the checking piece. Although it
used to be common to utter the word “check” when making such a move, this
practice is not only unnecessary but also is often frowned upon. Chapter 4
covers check possibilities. See also checkmate.
checkmate: When a king is in check and can’t make any move to get out of
check, the king is said to be checkmated (or simply “mated”), and the game is
over. See Chapter 4 for checkmate information. See also check.
chess clock: A device made up of two clocks that records the amount of time
each player uses while on the move. Only the clock of the player to move is
running; after making his or her move, the player pushes a button that stops
his clock and starts the clock of his or her opponent. See also Fischer clock
and flag.
chess problem: A composed chess position that identifies that checkmate
(or another conclusion, such as helpmate, where the solver is required to
checkmate himself) is to be given in a specified number of moves.
chessic: An adjective noting that something is related to chess.
chessist: Term to describe someone who’s interested in chess.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
chessman: Term that refers to both pieces and pawns. Sometimes the term is
shortened to man. The term unit is sometimes used interchangeably with
chessman. See also piece.
classical: Style of chess play that developed in the late 19th century, emphasizing rapid development and control of the center with pawns. See also
center and development.
closed file: A file that has at least one pawn of each color on it.
closed game: A game where piece movement is restricted by interlocked
pawn chains and play centers on positioning pieces outside of the center, in
anticipation of the opening of the position. Most of the pieces are usually still
on the board and are behind the pawns, which may impede their movement.
See also open game.
combination: A series of forced moves (usually involving a sacrifice) that
leads to an advantage for the initiating player.
compensation: An advantage that compensates for a disadvantage elsewhere.
For example, a gain of tempo may compensate for the loss of a pawn.
connect: To move rooks of the same color onto the same rank, unseparated
by pieces or pawns.
consolidate: To maintain an established advantage.
consultation chess: A game in which at least one side consists of two or more
players who consult with each other in the play of the game. One of Paul
Morphy’s most spectacular games was against the Duke of Brunswick and
Count Isouard. This pair played Morphy in consultation and suffered a stunning loss. (See Chapter 18 for that famous game.)
cook: A defect in a chess problem.
correspondence chess: Chess played by mail. The earliest correspondence
game whose moves have been preserved was played in 1804. Chess played via
e-mail has also become popular. Unlike over-the-board play, the consultation
of books is permitted in correspondence chess. Also known as postal chess.
cramped position: Position in which the pieces have little room to move. See
also closed game.
crippled majority: A group of pawns on one side of the board that outnumber the opponent’s pawns on this side, which, because of structural weaknesses (for example, doubled pawns), can’t result in the creation of a passed
pawn. See also majority.
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critical position: The point in a game where the decisive series of moves
begins.
cross-check: A reply to a check that is itself a check. See also check.
crosstable: A chart in grid form that lists the complete results of a tournament.
decoy sacrifice: A sacrifice that entices the movement of an opponent’s piece.
The move may place the hostile piece on a disadvantageous square or simply
remove it from a part of the board where it was more effective.
descriptive notation: System of recording the moves of a chess game based
on the names of the pieces and places they occupy before the game begins.
A move is given by the name of the piece moving, followed by the square to
which it moves. This notation is now almost completely replaced by algebraic notation. See also algebraic notation, long algebraic notation, and
notation.
desperado: A piece that is trapped or must inevitably be captured and that
a player moves in order to inflict the greatest possible damage to the opposing side.
development: The movement of pieces from their initial squares.
diagonal: Any contiguous line of squares along which a bishop may move. If
a bishop isn’t on one of the four corner squares of the board, it’s on a square
that represents the intersection of two diagonals, which are referred to as the
short diagonal and the long diagonal.
diagram: A drawing of a chess position where white is at the bottom of the
picture and black is at the top.
discovered attack: The movement of a piece or pawn that results in an attack
by an unmoved piece. The stationary piece is now able to attack, because the
piece that was moved previously blocked the attack. See also discovered
check.
discovered check: The movement of a piece or pawn that results in a check
by an unmoved piece. See also discovered attack.
double attack: A simultaneous attack by a single piece or pawn on two pieces
of the opponent. Any pawn or piece can theoretically make a double attack,
except pawns on the a- or h-files.
double bishop sacrifice: The sacrifice of both bishops to open up the enemy
king. The Lasker-Bauer game of 1889 at Amsterdam is the first documented
example of this maneuver. See also sacrifice.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
double check: Discovered check in which the moved piece also gives check.
Only the movement of the king can meet a double check. See also discovered
check.
double round robin: Tournament where each contestant plays two games
(one as white and one as black) with every other contestant. See also match,
round robin, and tournament.
doubled pawns: Two pawns of the same color on the same file, which are
nearly always a positional weakness.
draw: A completed chess game that has no winner. A draw can come about in
several ways: (a) by agreement of both players, (b) by stalemate, (c) by the
declaration and proof of one player that the same position has appeared
three times (with the same player to move), (d) by the declaration and proof
of one player that there have been 50 moves during which no piece has been
taken and no pawns have been moved, although there are some exceptions
to the 50 move rule, (e) by adjudication, or (f) by the falling of one player’s
flag (on the chess clock) when his or her opponent has insufficient material
to perform checkmate. See also adjudication, 50-move rule, and stalemate.
duffer: Disparaging term to describe a very poor player.
dynamism: Type of play where positional weaknesses are permitted in favor
of aggressive counterplay. Dynamism developed out of the hypermodern
school of chess play. See also hypermodern.
edge: The outside squares of the chessboard, namely the first and eighth
ranks and the a- and h-files.
Elo scale: System for ranking chess players in order of relative strength
based upon results in rated games. The important factor in comparing two
players is the difference in their Elo ratings, not the absolute level of either
rating. The Elo system was adopted by the United States Chess Federation
(USCF) in 1960 and by FIDE in 1970. The system was devised by physicist
Arpad Elo.
en passant: French for “in passing,” this term refers to the capture of a pawn
that has moved two squares forward by an opponent’s pawn on the fifth rank.
You can capture en passant only immediately following the move of the pawn
two squares forward. The capturing pawn moves diagonally forward one
square and captures the pawn as if it had moved only one square forward. An
en passant capture is sometimes recorded with “e.p.”: for example, exd5 e.p.
(See Chapter 17 for more on chess notation and Chapter 10 for illustrated
information on en passant.)
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en prise: French for “in a position to be taken.” A chessman is en prise if it is
left or moved to a square where it can be captured without loss to the capturing player. See also hanging.
endgame: Also called the ending, the endgame is the final state of the chess
game, characterized by the relatively few pieces on the board. Players typically use the king more aggressively in the endgame than in the opening or
middlegame. One of the most common concerns in this phase is the promotion of pawns. Check out Chapter 14 for detailed endgame information. See
also middlegame, opening, and promotion.
endgame study: A composed chess position in which white must locate the
unique win (sometimes a draw) according to the requirements set out by the
composer. Studies tend to be more realistic than problems. Enthusiasts of
studies value those of great originality and beauty. See also problem,
endgame.
ending: See endgame.
equalize: To achieve a position where the opponent’s initiative is negated.
For example, white usually has the initiative in the opening, and black works
to equalize, or overcome, this initiative.
escape square: A square to which a king in check can move. Also called flight
square.
exchange: The capture of a piece or a pawn while giving up material of equal
strength. When capturing a rook while giving up only a bishop or a knight,
one is said to “win the exchange.” See also minor exchange.
fers: The medieval name for the piece now called the queen, derived from the
Persian word vizier.
fianchetto: The placement of a bishop on b2 or g2 for white and b7 or g7 for
black. The term is derived from the Italian fiancata, meaning “moves played
on the flank.”
FIDE: Fédération Internationale des Échecs, the international chess federation founded on July 20, 1924, in Paris. FIDE (pronounced fee-day) has more
than 120 member countries and concerns itself with all aspects of the game
of chess.
FIDE master: Title below that of international master. A player with a FIDE
master title usually has an Elo rating of at least 2,350. See also Elo scale.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
50-move rule: Chess rule that declares a game drawn when a player demonstrates that 50 moves have been played without the move of a pawn or without any captures. In a small number of positions (for example, king and two
knights versus king and pawn), the number of moves is extended past 50
moves before you can declare a draw.
file: Any of the eight columns on a chessboard, denoted by an algebraic notation letter, for example the a-file. See also algebraic notation.
Fingerfehler: German for finger-slip, a description of an obvious but bad
move made without thinking.
first board: Also called top board, a term to describe the board in a team
match that usually has each team’s strongest player.
Fischer clock: A clock that, in addition to serving the usual functions of a
chess clock, adds a certain amount of time to each player’s clock after each
move, in order to avoid desperate time scrambles at the end of a game, which
often result in poor moves.
fish: Derogatory term for a chess player of little skill or experience.
five-minute chess: See blitz.
flag: Part of an analog chess clock. As the minute hand on the clock nears
the 12, the flag is pushed upward. When the minute hand reaches 12, the flag
falls. The falling of the flag indicates that the player’s time has expired; if the
requisite number of moves haven’t been played, the player is said to “lose
the game on time.” (In other words, the game is lost because time ran out,
not because of the position on the board, although many games are lost on
time when the position is poor and the losing player uses large amounts of
time in an effort to try to find a way to save the game.)
flank: Sometimes called a wing, the flank is one side of the chessboard, such
as the a-, b-, and c-files or the f-, g-, and h-files.
flank development: Developing pieces on either flank (for example, in order
to fianchetto a bishop). See also development, fianchetto, and flank.
flank openings: Openings where white doesn’t make early advances of the
d- or e-pawns but instead develops on the a-, b-, and c-files or f-, g-, and h-files.
The fianchetto is a common motif in flank openings. See also fianchetto, flank.
flight square: A square to which a king in check can move. Also called escape
square.
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fluid pawn center: Any position where the center pawns can be advanced or
exchanged.
FM: See FIDE master.
fool’s mate: The shortest possible chess game ending in checkmate: 1.g4 e5
(or e6) 2.f4 (or f3) Qh4 mate. See also scholar’s mate.
forced move: A move for which only one reply is possible (or if more than
one reply, all but one are undesirable).
fork: An attack on two enemy chessmen at the same time. See also skewer.
Forsyth notation: A compact and simple means of recording a chess position,
devised by Scottish player David Forsyth. Beginning at the top left-hand
corner of the board (a8), you record the position of the chessmen as well as
the unoccupied squares, rank by rank. White’s men are recorded with capital
letters, and black’s men with lowercase letters.
French bishop: Black’s light-squared bishop in the French Defense, which
tends to be very weak because of the black pawn on e6.
frontier line: Grandmaster Aaron Nimzowitsch’s term for an imaginary line
running between the fourth and fifth ranks.
gambit: Any opening that contains a planned sacrifice of material, usually to
promote rapid development or control of the center.
Game of the Century: Widely used, descriptive term for the Fischer-Byrne
game (a Grünfeld Defense) in the 1956 Rosenwald tournament. Fischer, 13
years old at the time, mated International Master Byrne by using a queen and
rook sacrifice. Hans Kmoch used the term “Game of the Century” in his Chess
Life article to refer narrowly to chess played by youngsters.
Gens una sumus: Latin for “we are one family,” this saying is the official
motto of FIDE. See also FIDE.
GM: Abbreviation for international grandmaster. See also international
grandmaster.
good bishop: A bishop unhindered by its own pawns and thus very mobile.
See also bad bishop.
grading: A numerical representation of the strength of a chess player based
on his or her results in games against other graded players. In the United
States, the term rating is used in place of grading.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
grandmaster: Shortened form of international grandmaster. See also international grandmaster.
grandmaster draw: A deprecating term for a short, drawn game between
grandmasters where it’s obvious that neither player has made any attempt
at playing for a win.
Grandmaster of Chess: Title bestowed by Czar Nicholas II upon the finalists
of the 1914 St. Petersburg tournament: Alexander Alekhine, José Capablanca,
Emmanuel Lasker, Frank Marshall, and Siegbert Tarrasch.
half-open file: A file on which only one of the players has a pawn or pawns.
half-pin: A pin in which the chessman subject to the pin may move along the
same line (file, rank, or diagonal) that it shares with the attacker.
handicap: A means of trying to equalize chances in a game played between
opponents of greatly different strengths. Numerous methods of implementing
a handicap exist. The stronger player may (among other things) treat a draw
as a loss; play several opponents at the same time; give his or her opponent
more time on the clock; give his or her opponent two moves in a row at the
opening of the game; or remove one or more of his or her pieces from the
board before play begins.
hanging: A slang term to describe a piece left en prise. See also en prise.
hanging pawns: Wilhelm Steinitz’s term for two adjacent pawns that are on
the fourth rank, can’t be supported by other pawns, aren’t passed pawns,
and are on half-open files.
hole: Steinitz’s term for the square directly in front of a backward pawn
where an opponent’s piece can’t be attacked by a pawn.
hypermodern: A school of thought developed after World War I in reaction
to the views of Steinitz and Tarrasch. The most important idea of the hypermodern school is that occupation of the center isn’t vital — one can put pressure on the center or even just carefully monitor it and still win. The leaders
of the hypermodern movement — Nimzowitsch, Richard Réti, Gyula Breyer,
Ernst Grünfeld, and Saviely Tartakower — were strong players and witty writers. Many hypermodern ideas are still considered valid today, but so are
many of the ideas of Steinitz and Tarrasch.
illegal move: A move that is in violation of the laws of chess. If an illegal
move is discovered during the course of a game, the game will be returned to
the point it was before the illegal move was made. The player who made the
illegal move must move the piece he or she had previously moved illegally, if
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he or she can make a legal move with that piece. Otherwise, that player is
permitted to make any legal move.
illegal position: A position that isn’t the result of a series of legal moves.
Thus, an illegal move necessarily leads to an illegal position. Other sources of
illegal positions include incorrect positioning of the chessboard and incorrect arrangement of the chessmen, either at the beginning of the game or at
the time an adjourned game is resumed. If possible, the position must be corrected; otherwise, a new game must be played.
IM: Abbreviation for international master.
Immortal Game: Name given to the Anderssen-Kieseritsky game of 1851, a
spectacular example of the King’s Bishop Gambit. The game was played in
one of London’s great chess salons, Simpson’s-in-the-Strand.
Indian Defenses: Hypermodern defenses to 1. d4 beginning with 1. ...Nf6.
Indian defenses commonly employ a bishop fianchetto and slow development. Their name comes from this slow development, common in India,
which permitted pawn moves of only a single square, long after Europe had
adopted the option of a two-square advance on the first move of a pawn. See
Chapter 12 for more details on these and other common openings.
initiative: Term to describe the advantage held by the player who has the
ability to control the action and flow of the game, thus forcing the opponent
to play defensively.
international arbiter: A title first awarded by FIDE in 1951. A candidate is
nominated by his or her federation and may be selected by the qualification
committee if he or she has a complete knowledge of the rules of chess and
FIDE regulations; is objective; has knowledge of at least two FIDE languages
(English, French, German, Spanish, and Russian); and has experience in controlling four important tournaments, two of which must be international.
International Computer Chess Association (ICCA): The association that
organizes the World Computer Chess Championship held every three years
and the World Microcomputer Chess Championship held every year.
international grandmaster: Title established in 1950 and awarded by FIDE.
FIDE has detailed requirements for the title, which is awarded to only the best
players in the world. A player with a FIDE grandmaster title, often abbreviated
GM, usually has an Elo rating of at least 2,500. See also Elo scale, FIDE.
international master: Title established and awarded by FIDE, often abbreviated IM. An IM is a stronger player than a FIDE master but not as strong as an
international grandmaster and usually has an Elo rating of at least 2,400. See
also Elo scale, FIDE.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
International Rating List: A list of the world’s strongest players, compiled by
FIDE by using the Elo rating scale. It was first published in July 1971. See also
Elo scale, FIDE.
international woman grandmaster: Title established in 1976 and awarded by
FIDE to the world’s strongest female players. See also FIDE.
interposition: The movement of a piece in between an attacked piece and the
attacker.
isolated pawn: A pawn whose adjacent files contain no pawns of the same
color. An isolated pawn is weak because other pawns can’t defend that pawn
or the square in front of it.
J’adoube: French for “I adjust,” this expression (pronounced juh-doob) is
used by a player on the move before touching a piece, generally to move it to
the center of its square. A piece or pawn so adjusted doesn’t have to be the
man that will be the subject of the player’s official move. See also adjust,
touch-move.
key: The unique, first move in the solution to a chess problem. See also
problem.
kibitz: To comment during a game, or during analysis following a game, within
the hearing of the players. The term is often used in a pejorative sense and is
in many occasions applied to the comments of a spectator for whom the players have little respect. See also kibitzer.
kibitzer: One who kibitzes.
king hunt: A prolonged attack on the opponent’s king that usually dislodges
it from a shielded, defensive position with a series of checks and sacrifices. A
successful king hunt ends in checkmate.
king pawn opening: Any opening beginning with 1. e4.
kingside: The e-, f-, g-, and h-files.
knight fork: Any double attack by a knight. See also double attack.
knight’s tour: A chess puzzle whereby the knight is moved 64 times, landing on
each square only once. A solution is called “re-entrant” if the knight finishes on
a square that is a knight’s move away from the square where it began.
ladder: A fluid method of ranking chess players within a club or other group.
The ladder is usually established by listing players according to their chess
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rating. Any player may challenge someone one step above him or her on the
ladder (sometimes two or more places). If the challenger wins, that person
moves up the ladder, and the opponent moves down.
laws of chess: The rules that govern the play of the game. During the 1850s,
Staunton was one of many players who first sought to establish a unified set
of chess laws. FIDE established its own laws of chess in 1929. See also FIDE.
legal move: A move permitted by the laws of chess.
Legall’s mate: A mating sequence appearing in the game between M. de
Kermar Legall and Saint Brie in about 1750: 1. e4 e5, 2. Bc4 d6, 3. Nf3 Bg4, 4.
Nc3 g6, 5. Nxe5 Bxd1, 6. Bxf7+ Ke7, 7. Nd5 mate.
lever: Kmoch’s term for two pawns, one white and one black, that are diagonally adjacent so that either can capture the other.
light bishop: A bishop that moves on light-colored squares.
light piece: Another expression for a minor piece: a bishop or a knight.
lightning chess: Another term for speed or blitz chess. See blitz.
liquidation: The exchange of chessmen to stunt an opponent’s attack, to
solidify one’s own advantages, or to improve one’s own position.
living chess: The performance of a chess game where the pawns and pieces
are represented by real people. The performance may be a re-enactment of a
famous game or a new game.
long algebraic notation: A form of algebraic notation in which a move is designated by a letter indicating the piece moved, the square the piece moves
from, and the square the piece moves to (for example, Bc1-g5). Pawn moves
are designated by the starting square and the destination square (for example, e2-e4). See also algebraic notation.
long castling: Expression sometimes used to describe castling queenside. See
also castling.
Long Whip: The line in the King’s Gambit: 1. e4 e5, 2. f4 exf4, 3. Nf3 g5, 4. h4
g4, 5. Ne5 h5.
losing the exchange: To exchange a rook for either a bishop or a knight.
Lucena’s position: A well-known and well-analyzed rook and pawn ending
first analyzed in the oldest surviving book on chess, written by Luis Lucena
and published in 1497.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
Luff: Kmoch’s expression for the part of a rank divided by a pawn having the
greater number of squares.
Luft: German for air, a flight square for the king.
major piece: A queen or a rook. See also minor piece.
majority: A player’s numerical superiority of pawns on one flank. Such a
majority is important because it may lead to the creation of a passed pawn.
See also passed pawn.
Marshall Chess Club: New York City chess club founded by Frank Marshall in
1915 (originally named the Chess Divan).
Marshall swindle: Another expression for swindle, so named because Frank
Marshall was well known for finding ways to play on in what seemed like lost
positions. He named a collection of his games “Chess Swindles.” See also
swindle.
master: Title offered by many national chess federations to strong players.
See also national master.
master tournament: A tournament held simultaneously with another tournament of greater strength, the latter usually containing many grandmasters as
participants. The winner of the master tournament is often granted an invitation to the following year’s higher-level tournament.
match: (a) A contest between two players only, as distinguished from a tournament. The term often refers to a contest of many games but is sometimes
used to describe a single game. The first major chess match was between
Louis Charles de la Bourdonnais and Alexander McDonnel in 1834. (b) A contest between two teams that is played on several boards.
Match of the Century: The 1970 match in Belgrade between the Soviet Union
and players from the rest of the world. The match consisted of four games on
each of ten boards. The Soviet Union team won by 201⁄2 to 191⁄2.
mate: Short for checkmate.
mating attack: An attack that aims at checkmate.
mating net: A position where one player has mating threats.
mating sacrifice: A material sacrifice made to achieve checkmate.
mechanical move: A move made with little thought because it seems to be
obvious.
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Mephisto: Constructed by Charles Godfrey Gumpel and first demonstrated in
London in 1878, Mephisto was described as a chess-playing automaton. It
was in fact a device that contained a person who played chess.
middlegame: The part of a chess game that follows the opening and comes
before the endgame. Consult Chapter 13 for details on the middlegame. See
also opening, endgame.
miniature: (a) Also called brevity, a miniature is a short game — usually containing 20 moves or less. Many writers use the term only for entertaining
games and therefore don’t generally include draws in this category. (b) Any
chess problem featuring seven or fewer pieces. See also problem.
minor exchange: Tarrasch’s term for the exchange of a knight for a bishop.
Because he preferred bishops, he described the player who gave up the
knight as winning the minor exchange. See also exchange.
minor piece: A bishop or a knight. See also major piece.
minority attack: The advance of one or more pawns on a flank where the
opponent has a pawn majority.
mobility: The ability to move one’s pieces to important parts of the board
quickly and easily.
muse of chess: See Caissa.
My System: Aaron Nimzowitsch’s immensely influential work describing his
theory of chess and first published in English in 1929.
national master: Title granted by national federations to strong players, usually those with a sustained Elo rating of 2,200 or above. See also Elo scale.
neoromantic: A style of play developed in the 20th century. This style incorporates the romantic tradition of aggressive attack and couples this aspect of
play with a strong defense.
norm: The number of points a player in an international tournament must
score to gain one qualification for a FIDE title. The weaker the tournament,
the more points a player must score for any given norm. See also FIDE.
notation: Any means of recording a chess game. See also algebraic
notation, descriptive notation, and long algebraic notation.
obstructive sacrifice: A material sacrifice to hinder an opponent’s development. See also sacrifice.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
odds: See handicap.
Official Rules of Chess: Official FIDE publication setting forth the laws of
chess. See also FIDE.
Olympiad: Tournaments organized by FIDE, now held every two years in
which teams from FIDE member countries compete. The first Chess Olympiad
was held in London in 1927. The first Olympiad for women chess players was
held in 1957.
open file: A file that has no pawns. Sometimes called an “open line.” See
also file.
open game: A term usually used to denote games that begin 1. e4 e5 and are
characterized by piece mobility.
open tournament: A tournament that is open to any player.
opening: The beginning part of a chess game, during which the players
develop all or most of their pieces. Head to Chapter 12 for info on the opening. See also middlegame and endgame.
opposite-colored bishops: See bishops of opposite colors.
opposition: A position where the two kings are on the same rank, file, or diagonal. When only one square separates the kings, they’re said to be in direct
opposition. When three to five squares separate them, they’re said to be in
distant opposition. A player is said to “have the opposition” if the kings are in
direct opposition and his or her opponent must move, thus allowing the
player with the opposition to advance his or her king.
Orangutan: 1. b4. Also known as Sokolsky’s Opening, Polish Opening, and
Polish Attack.
organic weakness: Any permanent imperfection in a pawn structure.
OTB: See over the board.
outpost: A square on the fifth, sixth, or seventh rank that a pawn is guarding
and that an enemy pawn can’t attack.
outside passed pawn: A passed pawn away from most of the other pawns on
the board.
over the board: A description of games played face to face, as opposed to
correspondence chess.
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overprotection: Nimzowitsch’s concept of concentrating many pieces and/or
pawns — even more than may seem necessary — on an important square.
This technique creates a strong square that interacts beneficially with the
overprotecting pieces.
overload: A situation where a pawn or piece must perform too many defensive functions and a weakness is created.
pairings: A listing of who plays whom at a tournament.
parry a check: To place a chessman between a king in check and the checking piece. Parrying is one of three ways to meet a check, the other two being
to move the king or to capture the checking piece. If a player in check can’t
employ one of these three ways to meet the check, the king is checkmated
and the game is over. See also check and checkmate.
partie: French and German for game.
passed pawn: A pawn that has no enemy pawn opposing it on its own file or
on any immediately adjacent file.
passive: (a) Description of a move that contains no threats; (b) description of
a piece with limited mobility — in other words, a piece that isn’t active. See
also active.
patzer: A weak player (taken from German). Sometimes used more specifically to describe a weak player who either doesn’t recognize his or her deficiencies or who may boast of his or her ability.
pawn chain: A diagonal set of pawns that protect each other.
pawn formation: A pawn configuration associated with a particular opening.
See Chapter 9 for more on pawn formations.
pawn grabbing: An insulting term to describe the act of winning pawns at the
expense of development or countering an opponent’s attack. Also known as
pawn snatching.
pawn promotion: See promotion.
pawn storm: The general advance of two or more connected pawns. A pawn
storm may be employed to attack the king, to promote one of the pawns, or
to keep some of the opponents’ pieces away from another part of the board,
among other things. Also known as a pawn push or a pawn roller.
pawn structure: Description of the overall position of one player’s pawns on
the board. Consult Chapter 3 for information on pawn structures.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
perfect score: Term to describe the score of a player who wins all his or her
games in a tournament or match.
perpetual check: A position where one player can continue to place his or
her opponent’s king in check without threatening checkmate. Such a game is
drawn because either the player with perpetual check will eventually be able
to make a threefold repetition of the position, or both players will agree to a
draw.
phalanx: Pawn structure where two or more pawns of the same color are side
by side — in other words, on the same rank and on adjacent files. See also
pawn structure.
piece: A king, queen, rook, bishop, or knight.
pin: A piece or pawn that is immobilized because it stands between its king
(or other piece) and an opponent’s piece that would otherwise be attacking
the king (or the other piece).
playoff: A method of breaking a tie where the tied players play one or more
games against each other.
poisoned pawn: A pawn (often white’s pawn on b2) that is undefended
during the opening but that, if taken, often permits the player who gave it
up to engage in a strong attack or to later win the piece taking the pawn.
positional sacrifice: A sacrifice of material that improves the position of the
sacrificing player.
postmortem: The discussion of a game after it’s over.
postal chess: See correspondence chess.
postalite: Informal term for a player of postal or correspondence chess. See
also correspondence chess.
Praxis: This German term for practice is commonly used in chess literature
because of the great influence of Nimzowitsch’s book Chess Praxis.
prepared variation: An opening line that a player discovers in study before a
tournament and that the player only makes public over the board. See also
over the board.
preventive sacrifice: Sacrifice made to prevent the opponent from castling.
Also known as an anticastling sacrifice. See also castling and sacrifice.
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problem: A composed chess position that identifies that checkmate (or
another conclusion, such as helpmate, where you checkmate yourself) is to
be given in a specified number of moves.
promotion: When a pawn reaches the eighth rank, it must immediately
become a piece of its own color (except a king) at the player’s choice —
regardless of what pieces he or she may still have on the board. Generally, a
player will promote a pawn to a queen. See also underpromotion.
prophylaxis: Nimzowitsch’s expression for positional play strategy where the
opponent’s position is kept constricted.
protected passed pawn: A passed pawn that is protected by another pawn.
See also passed pawn.
queen pawn opening: An opening begun by the advance of the d-pawn to the
d4 square.
queening square: The eighth rank square to which a pawn is moved and then
must be promoted. This promotion square is called the queening square
because the promotion choice is nearly always a queen. See also promotion.
queenside: The a-, b-, c-, and d-files.
quick play: See rapid chess.
quiet move: A move that contains no immediate threat, doesn’t make a capture, and isn’t a check.
rank: Any horizontal row on a chessboard.
rapid chess: A chess game where each player has 30 minutes in which to
complete the game; previously called action chess by FIDE. In the United
States, the preferred term is action chess, and in the United Kingdom, the
expression is quick play.
Rat Defense: Another name for the Modern Defense.
Rat Opening: King’s fianchetto opening (1. g3). See also fianchetto.
rating: A numerical representation of the strength of a chess player based
upon his or her results in games against other graded players. In the United
Kingdom, the term grading is used in place of rating.
re-entrant: See knight’s tour.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
recording a game: The process of writing down all the moves of a game, generally at or near the time each move is played.
refute: To prove that a previously accepted move, line, or opening is deficient when best play is pursued by both sides.
Remis: German for draw.
repetition of position: A player may claim a draw if he or she can demonstrate that a threefold repetition of the position has occurred, with the same
player having the move each time.
resign: To admit defeat of a game before being checkmated. The resigning
player commonly tips over his or her king to signal resignation or says, “I
resign” to the opponent. Resignation immediately ends the game.
retrograde analysis: To analyze a position to deduce previous moves or to
explain how the position was reached.
round robin: A tournament where each contestant plays one game with
every other contestant.
royal game: Commonly used description for the game of chess.
Ruy Lopez: 1. e4 e5, 2. Nf3 Nc6, 3. Bb5. One of the oldest chess openings, it
was analyzed by Ruy Lopez in his 1561 book Libro del Ajedrez. Also known as
the Spanish game.
sacrifice: To deliberately give up material to achieve an advantage. The
advantage gained may be an attack, a gain in tempo, greater board control,
the creation of an outpost, and so on.
scholar’s mate: A four-move checkmate: 1. e4 e5, 2. Bc4 Bc5, 3. Qh5 Nf6, 4.
Qxf7 mate. See also fool’s mate.
score: (a) A written record of a game containing all the moves; (b) a player’s
result in a game, match, or tournament.
score sheet: The paper on which a chess score is recorded.
sealed move: The last move made before a game is adjourned. The move
isn’t played on the board; rather, the players record their move on their score
sheet. Then they place their score sheets in an envelope that is sealed and
presented to the arbiter. See also adjournment.
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second: Term for someone who assists a chess player, generally providing
advice on openings and assisting with analysis. The assistance may be in
preparation for a match or tournament or may take place during a match or
tournament (before an adjourned game is resumed, for example) or both.
seesaw: Term to describe a series of alternating direct and discovered checks.
sham sacrifice: A move that appears to be a sacrifice but if accepted yields the
player offering the piece a gain in material or a strong positional advantage.
sharp: Descriptive term applied to a move or a series of moves that could be
considered risky.
short castling: Castling on the kingside.
shot: Colloquial term for a very strong and unexpected move.
simplify: To exchange material in order to reduce the possibility of an opponent’s attack. The player with the better position is more likely to simplify
than the player with the worse position.
simul: See simultaneous display.
simultaneous display: An event where a single player (commonly a strong
player) plays several people all at the same time. Numerous boards are set
up, in a circle or rectangle, and the single player stands inside this area,
moving from board to board, usually playing a single move at a time. Also
known as simultaneous exhibition or simul.
skewer: An attack on a piece that results in the win of another, less valuable
piece that is on the same rank, file, or diagonal after the attacked piece is
moved.
skittles: Informal or casual chess games, often played quickly.
smothered mate: A form of checkmate where the king is unable to move
because all the squares around him are occupied by chessmen.
Spanish game: See Ruy Lopez.
speculative: Description of a move or series of moves when the outcome
can’t be known.
spite check: A check by a player facing a mating attack that doesn’t prevent
the mating attack but only delays it.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
stalemate: A situation where a player on the move isn’t in check but can’t
make a legal move. For over 100 years, stalemate has been deemed a draw.
Before that, people in different places treated stalemate differently. For example, people have considered stalemate to be a win, a loss, and illegal, among
other verdicts. See Chapter 4 for information on stalemate.
Staunton chessmen: Chessmen designed in 1835 by Nathaniel Cook, who convinced Howard Staunton in 1852 that they should be designated Staunton
chessmen. They’re the design that FIDE requires. See also FIDE.
steamroller: See pawn storm.
strategy: The overall, long-range plan for a chess game. Chapter 11 provides
information on chess strategy.
swindle: A combination that converts a player’s position into a win or draw.
Such a combination is generally considered to be either avoidable by the
opponent or the result of luck.
Swiss system: A method of pairing players at a tournament, developed in
Switzerland in the 19th century by Dr. Julius Muller and first employed in
1895. The three fundamental rules of the Swiss system are as follows: (a) No
player meets the same opponent twice; (b) pairings should match players
with scores that are as similar as possible; and (c) the number of games as
white and as black for each player should be kept as close as possible to
equal throughout the tournament.
symmetrical pawn structure: Position where the pawns of one side mirror
the position of the pawns of the other side.
symmetry: Position where the chessmen of one side mirror the position of
the chessmen of the other side.
tactic: A move or moves that are expected to yield benefits in the short term.
Chapter 5 covers chess tactics.
TD: Abbreviation for tournament director.
tempo: Italian for time. Generally, to lose a tempo is disadvantageous, and a
general rule of thumb is that the loss of three tempi is equivalent to the loss
of a pawn.
text move: In annotations, a reference to the move actually played or the
main line being analyzed.
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thematic move: A move that is consistent with the overall strategy pursued
by the player. See also strategy.
theoretical novelty: A new move in an established opening.
theory: Term to refer to the general body of accepted chess knowledge.
threat: A move that contains an implied or expressed attack on a piece or
pawn or the position of the opponent.
tiebreaking system: A method used to determine a single winner when tournament play produces a tie. One tiebreaker is the playoff, but due to the time
it takes to play additional games, a playoff often isn’t feasible. Ties are sometimes resolved in favor of the player who won the most games, the player
who won the individual game between the tied players, or the player who
had black if the individual game between the players was drawn.
time limit: The amount of time allocated to each player in which a prescribed
number of moves must be made. Failure to make all the moves within the
time allotted results in a loss (or a draw in a small number of situations).
time trouble: A situation where a player has a small amount of time to make
a large number of moves.
TN: Abbreviation for theoretical novelty.
top board: In a team match, the player who competes against the strongest
opponents. Sometimes referred to as first board.
touch-move: Chess rule that requires a player who touches a piece to actually move that piece (if it is his or her own) or take that piece (if it belongs to
the opponent). If the player can’t legally move or capture the touched piece,
then he or she may make any move. A player may touch a piece and not be
compelled to move or capture it if he or she first announces “J’adoube” or
“I adjust.” See also J’adoube.
tournament: A contest among more than two chess players.
tournament book: A collection of all the games of a tournament (or selected
games if the tournament is very large). Generally, a tournament book also
includes some or all of the following: crosstables, complete or partial results,
annotations of interesting or important games, background information on
players or the tournament, and photographs.
trap: A move whose natural reply results in a disadvantage to the replying
player.
Appendix A: A Glossary of Chess
triangulation: A process whereby a king is moved twice to reach a square that
it could attain in a single move. The beginning square and the two squares to
which it is moved form a triangle. Triangulation is generally employed only in
endings.
tripled pawns: Three pawns of the same color on a single file.
underpromotion: The promotion of a pawn to a piece other than a queen.
See also promotion.
undoubling: To move one of a set of doubled pawns onto an adjacent file that
contains no pawns of its own color, via a capture. See doubled pawns.
unit: A term that refers to both pieces and pawns. See also piece, pawn, and
chessman.
United States Chess Federation: The official governing body for chess in the
United States. Often referred to by its abbreviation, USCF.
vacating sacrifice: A sacrifice intended to clear a square for another piece.
weak square: An important square that a player can’t easily defend.
wing: See flank.
winning the exchange: Giving up a knight or a bishop for a rook. See also
exchange.
winning move: A move that creates a position in which the player can or
does win.
woodpusher: Derogatory term for a player who shows no understanding for
chess but rather appears to simply push his or her pieces around the board.
World Chess Federation: See FIDE.
Zugzwang: The situation where a player’s position is weakened by the mere
fact that he or she is compelled to make a move.
Zwischenzug: German for intermediate move, which is a move that is made in
between an apparently forced sequence of moves, improving the position of
the player making the move.
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Part VI: Appendixes
Appendix B
Other Chess Resources
S
ome people are serious tournament competitors, and others enjoy the
game in a much more casual fashion. These people want and need different chess resources. Fortunately, there exists an amazing array of resources
of every kind.
Beginner’s Chess Books
Chess players like to brag about their chess libraries. And libraries aren’t
tough to build — more books have been written about chess than any other
game. Hundreds of books are worth recommending, but it’s best to start out
modestly and purchase (or borrow) only what you need.
Comprehensive Chess Course
If you have the time and money, the multivolume Comprehensive Chess Course
by Grandmaster Lev Alburt (published by the Chess Information and Research
Center) has my highest recommendation. The first couple of volumes are for
the absolute beginner, but some of the later ones are full of information even
masters will find useful. You may contact GM Alburt by calling 800-247-6553.
Official Rules of Chess, Fifth Edition
The official book of the United States Chess Federation is edited by Tim Just
and Daniel B. Burg. Published by McKay Chess, this indispensable guide allows
you to win all the arguments about rules that you’re bound to have. It also
includes a complete set of international rules.
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Part VI: Appendixes
The Oxford Companion to Chess,
Second Edition
The second edition of The Oxford Companion to Chess is written by David
Hooper and Kenneth Whyld and published by Oxford University Press. It
includes everything from A to Z about chess — and is the handiest singlesource reference book around.
The Even More Complete Chess Addict
Written by Michael Fox and Richard James and published by Faber and Faber,
The Even More Complete Chess Addict is the chess trivia book to get. The
authors are witty and thorough in digging up gems — such as the man who
was British Ladies Champion. A must have.
Chess Equipment
Serious chess players tend to buy lots of books, but everybody needs a chess
set and board. In tournaments, you can use inexpensive plastic sets as long
as they’re of the Staunton design, but the more you play, the more you’ll
appreciate the look and feel of wooden ones. If you want to play in tournaments, you should also buy a chess clock, because clocks are required in official competitions. Both analog and digital chess clocks are available, but the
digital ones have become the standard. The following resources have large
inventories and reliable service.
The Chess Cafe
The United States Chess Federation has outsourced its book and equipment
business to the Chess Cafe. You can find equipment (sets and clocks) and a
large assortment of books on their Web site: www.chesscafe.com. This site
also offers great articles and instruction.
Your Move Chess & Games
Your Move Chess & Games is touted as “America’s largest chess store” and
the country’s premier chess mail-order company. Check out their inventory
online at www.chessusa.com.
Appendix B: Other Chess Resources
Informative Internet Resources
One of the best things about the Internet for a chess enthusiast is the sheer
number of quality Web sites dedicated to some aspect of the game. Following
is a list of chess sites that I visit on a regular basis or especially admire.
However, the Web is designed to be surfed, so don’t limit yourself to what
you see here. Also, because the Internet changes on a daily basis, I recommend that you develop your own favorites list and keep exploring every now
and then to see if any new sites have cropped up.
⻬ About Chess: About.com has an excellent site to help you learn more
about chess: http://chess.about.com. It also features a lively discussion board on a variety of chess-related topics.
⻬ ChessBase: This site at www.chessbase.com is the home of some of the
most sophisticated chess software and is also a great site for news.
⻬ Chess Cafe: At www.chesscafe.com, you can find a combination of
things to buy, articles on all aspects of the game, and much, much more.
⻬ Chess Mentor: This site (www.chess.com) is the home of the teaching
platform Chess Mentor and is the place to find your way to my personal
chess journal. (Just scroll down the home page, where you’ll find a link.)
⻬ Chess Ninja: The great site www.chessninja.com includes, among many
features, the “Daily Dirt,” which is both amusing and informative.
⻬ Chess Today: Chess Today is the first daily chess newspaper delivered to
your e-mail inbox. Subscribe online at www.chesstoday.net. Free samples are available.
⻬ The Week in Chess (TWIC): One of the most current and complete information sites is TWIC. Here you find the latest news, events, games, and
tournament results, along with quality book reviews, updated on a
weekly basis. You can check out the site at www.chesscenter.com/
twic/twic.html.
U.S. Places, People to See,
and Games of Interest
If you get the chance, you can visit a number of places of special interest to
chess lovers. You’ll find a rich atmosphere and historic photos, as well as
people who share your interest in the game.
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Part VI: Appendixes
Marshall Chess Club
Located in New York, the Marshall Chess Club has a rich tradition and plenty
of action, from offhand blitz games to serious tournaments. Although anyone
can visit, you have to be a member in order to play in its events. The club is
located at 23 W. 10th St., New York, NY 10011; you can reach it by phone at
212-477-3716. Also check out its Web site at www.marshallchessclub.org
Mechanics’ Institute Chess Room
Located on the fourth floor at 57 Post Street in San Francisco and founded in
1854, the Mechanics’ Institute Chess Room is the oldest chess club in continuous existence. Anyone can visit, but you have to be a member to participate
in its events. Contact the club by phone at 415-421-2258 or visit the Web site
at www.chessclub.org.
The John G. White Collection
Located on the third floor of the Cleveland, Ohio, main library at 125 Superior
Avenue, the John G. White Collection is the chess world’s largest research
and reference library. It includes some of the rarest books and materials
available in the United States. The main library’s Web site is www.cpl.org,
and the phone number is 216-623-2800.
World Chess Hall of Fame & Sidney
Samole Chess Museum
The World Chess Hall of Fame & Sidney Samole Chess Museum, at 13755 S.W.
119th Avenue in Miami, is dedicated to telling the stories of the greatest players in history. It also has some wonderfully rare material — my favorite one
being the original edition of the tournament book from the first true international competition in 1851! You can also find out about upcoming events at
the museum and other pertinent info at www.uschesshalloffame.com or by
calling 786-242-4255.
Index
• Numbers & Symbols •
!! (double exclamation point), 272
?? (double question mark), 272
= (equal sign), 272
! (exclamation point), 272
–/+ (minus/plus sign), 272
+ (plus sign), 272
+/– (plus/minus sign), 272
# (pound sign), 272
? (question mark), 272
1
⁄2 (one-half fraction), 272
•A•
About Chess (Web site), 343
active move, 315
adjournment, 315
adjudication, 315
adjusting pieces, 315
Alburt, Lev (Comprehensive
Chess Course), 341
Alekhine, Alexander (chess player),
179, 256, 308
Alekhine’s Defense (opening), 209
algebraic notation, 263, 316
analog clock, 246
Anand, Viswanathan (chess player),
251, 312
Anderssen, Adolf (chess player),
278–283, 310, 326
annotation
cautions, 278
definition, 12, 316
overview, 272
ape-man strategy, 44
arbiter, 250, 316
art, 23
The Art of Attack (Vukovic, Vladimir),
121, 223
artificial intelligence, 258
attack, 222–224, 316
attacked square, 42
Averbakh, Yuri
Chess Endings: Essential Knowledge, 147
minority attack, 221
•B•
back rank mate, 124–125, 316
backward pawn, 59, 316
bad bishop, 316
base, 62
BCA (British Chess Association), 317
BCF (British Chess Federation), 317
beginner’s mistakes
check, 50, 157
endgame, 147
opening, 193–194
scholar’s mate, 122–123
tempo gains and losses, 50
beginning of game (opening). See also
specific moves
analysis of, 196–200
attacks on opponent, 195–196
beginner’s mistakes, 193–194
centralization, 180–184
checkmate, 193, 194
chess notation, 264–266
definition, 11, 331
development, 194–195
differences in names, 200
discussion among players, 200
importance, 193
king safety strategy, 53, 54
knight movements, 34–35
memorization of moves, 193
rook pawns, 26
space strategies, 42–45
transposed, 193
weird names, 214
346
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
behavior, game
spite check, 65
tournament etiquette, 251–255
verbal “check,” 64
Benjamin, Joel (Unorthodox
Openings), 214
bishop
attack power, 27, 29
blocks by pawns, 28–29
capture basics, 28, 29
chess notation, 264
Closed English formation, 166–167
discovered attack, 92–94
double check, 96
Dragon formation, 160–161
endgame, 238–242
exchange of, 185
fianchetto, 158–159
fork tactic, 83–87
key square strategy, 190
King’s Gambit, 110–112
versus knight, 47
middlegame principles, 224
Morphy’s mate, 134–136
movements, 26–29
namesake, 26
Nimzo-Botvinnik formation, 168
Nimzo-Indian opening, 89–90
opening analysis, 197–200
opening development, 194
origins of chess, 21
overview, 26
pair, 316
pawn formation effects, 156–157
pin tactic, 87–90
placement on chessboard, 19
Queen’s Gambit, 182–184
Queen’s Indian, 213
quickest checkmate, 53–54
relative value, 47, 188
Ruy Lopez opening, 201–202
sacrifice, 112–114
Scheveningen formation, 162, 163
scholar’s mate, 122–123
skewer tactic, 90–91
space guidelines, 45
symbol, 18
temporary sacrifice, 115–117
blindfold chess, 317
blitz game, 94, 317
blockade
definition, 317
endgame strategy, 227
knight-knight ending, 240
overview, 59
process, 191–192
blunder, 109, 317
board
colors, 14–15
diagonals, 17
versus diagrams, 12
knight’s tour, 35
naming of squares, 16–17
number of squares, 15
ordering information, 12, 342
placement of chess set, 18–21
rank and file illustrations, 15–16
selection, 13–14
tournament rules, 246
book move, 317
books, 341–342
Botvinnik, Mikhail (chess player), 309
brevity, 330
brilliancy, 317
brilliancy prize, 317
British Chess Association (BCA), 317
British Chess Federation (BCF), 317
building a bridge, 151–154
Byrne, Donald (chess player), 294–297,
324
•C•
Caissa (goddess of chess), 317
calculation, 137, 138–139
candidate move, 139
Capablanca, José Raúl (chess player),
292–294, 306
captures
bishop movements, 28, 29
break of pin, 88
chess notation, 266–267, 270–271
Index
doubled pawn remedy, 61
en passant method, 169–171
illegal, 88
king movements, 32
material guidelines, 48
pawn movements, 36–39
queen movements, 30
rook movements, 25
typical pawn formations, 143–146
Caro-Kann Defense (opening), 208–209
cash prize, 248
castling
chess notation, 268, 269–270
Closed English benefits, 166
definition, 53, 317
Dragon formation, 160–161
Nimzo-Indian opening, 90
opening strategy, 53, 54
overview, 172–175
Queen’s Gambit, 183–184
center, of chessboard
chess strategies, 180–184
Closed English formation, 166–167
definition, 318
Double Stonewall formation, 165–166
illustration, 44
middlegame principles, 223
opening development, 194
center-counter opening, 51–52
centralization
definition, 318
opening development, 194
overview, 180–184
chain, pawn
definition, 61, 332
French Defense opening, 140–143
overview, 61–62
weakening tips, 62, 140–141
chatrang, 21, 318
chaturanga, 21, 318
cheating, 254
check
beginner’s mistakes, 50, 157
definition, 10, 318
overview, 63–64
pointless, 64
types, 65
verbal “check,” 64
checkmate. See also specific types
definition, 318
with king and queen, 66–70
with king and rook, 70–78
major pieces, 25
minor pieces, 25, 26
opening, 193, 194
overview, 66
quickest, 53–54
chess
club, 245–246, 344
drama, 110
game versus intellectual activity, 1
object of game, 63
origins, 21
overview, 9–12
phases, 11
versus warfare, 11
Chess Assistant (database program), 260
Chess Cafe (equipment resource), 342,
343
chess clock
definition, 318
draw offering, 254
overview, 246–247
Chess Endings: Essential Knowledge
(Averbakh, Yuri), 147
Chess Life magazine, 246
Chess Mentor (instructional software),
260, 343
Chess Ninja (Web site), 343
chess notation
annotations, 272
captures, 266–267, 270–271
castling, 268, 269–270
chess pieces, 264
definition, 330
en passant method, 271
exchanges, 268–269
newspaper diagrams, 272–273
opening, 264–266
overview, 12, 263
pawn promotion, 270
Chess Olympiads (tournaments), 250
347
348
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
chess problem, 318
chess set. See also specific pieces
color, 13
definition, 12
design, 13
key to power, 55
major pieces, 25
notation, 264
ordering information, 12, 342
overview, 23
placement on chessboard, 18–21
relative values, 46–47
science versus art, 23
selection, 13–14
symbols, 18
tournament rules, 246, 254–255
wood versus other materials, 13–14
chess strategy. See also specific strategies
center control, 180–184
endgame, 226–227
importance, 11
overview, 179–180
Chess Today (newspaper), 343
chess tournament
book of games, 338
chess set design, 13
clubs, 245–246
definition, 338
etiquette, 251–255
international, 250
overview, 12, 245
queen-pawn mates, 125–129
score sheet, 273–274
touch-move rule, 254–255
U.S. basics, 246–249
Chessbase (database program), 260
ChessBase (Web site), 343
chessboard
colors, 14–15
diagonals, 17
versus diagrams, 12
knight’s tour, 35
naming of squares, 16–17
number of squares, 15
ordering information, 12, 342
placement of chess set, 18–21
rank and file illustrations, 15–16
selection, 13–14
tournament rules, 246
chessist, 318
chessman, 319
Chesster (computer program), 260
Chigorin, Mikhail Ivanovich
(grandmaster), 211, 311
China, 21
class prize, 248
classic bishop sacrifice, 112–114
classical chess, 319
clearance sacrifice
process, 97–100
queen-pawn mate, 125–127
clock
definition, 318
draw offering, 254
overview, 246–247
Closed English formation, 166–167
closed file, 319
closed game, 319
closed position, 56
club, 245–246, 344
color
bishop movements, 28
chess set, 13
chessboard, 14–15
knight movements, 34
combination. See also specific types
benefits, 96, 97
definition, 2, 11, 319
false assumptions, 97
overview, 81, 96–97
sacrifice, 97–100
compensation, 319
competition
book of games, 338
chess set design, 13
clubs, 245–246
definition, 338
etiquette, 251–255
international, 250
overview, 12, 245
queen-pawn mates, 129
score sheet, 273–274
Index
touch-move rule, 254–255
U.S. basics, 246–249
composition, 217–221
Comprehensive Chess Course
(Alburt, Lev), 341
computer chess. See also Internet chess
calculations, 257–258
instruction, 260–261
overview, 12, 257
software, 259–260
consultation chess, 283, 319
contested square, 42, 56
control, 42–45, 46
cook, 319
correspondence chess, 250–251, 319
counterattack, 224
courtesy
spite check, 65
tournament etiquette, 251–255
verbal “check,” 64
cramped game, 42, 186, 319
cramping move, 42, 141
crippled majority, 319
critical position, 320
cross-check, 320
crosstable, 320
cutting off squares process
definition, 66
king and queen, 66–70
rook and king, 70–72, 74–77
•D•
Damiano’s mate (mating pattern),
97–100, 125–129
database, 260
decoy, 100–102, 320
Deep Blue (IBM chess computer),
259, 297–299
deflection sacrifice, 102–104
descriptive notation, 263, 320
design, of chess set, 13, 337
desperado, 320
destroying the guard, 104–105
developing move, 49
development
center-counter opening, 51–52
definition, 11, 48, 320
gambits, 50, 52, 110–112
middlegame principles, 223
opening moves, 194–195
opponent’s, 194–195
overview, 48–49
tempo gains and losses, 49–50
diagonal
bishop movements, 27–29
definition, 320
Dragon formation, 160–161
fianchetto strengths, 159
material guidelines, 48
overview, 17
pawn captures, 36–37
pawn chains, 61–62
queen movements, 30
diagram
versus actual chessboard, 12
conventions, 2
definition, 320
discovered attack, 320
discovered check
definition, 65, 320
overview, 92–94, 94–96
distraction, 252, 255
double attack, 92–94, 320
double bishop sacrifice, 320
double check
definition, 65, 321
overview, 94–96
queen-knight mates, 132
double exclamation point (!!), 272
double king pawn opening, 201–207
double queen pawn opening, 210–211
double question mark (??), 272
double round robin, 321
Double Stonewall formation, 164–166
doubled pawn, 60–61, 321
doubling, 224
Dragon formation, 160–161
drama, of game, 110
draw
bishop-bishop ending, 242
definition, 4, 321
overview, 65–66
rook endings, 238
tournament etiquette, 253–254
duffer, 321
349
350
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
Dufresne, J. (chess player), 281–283
dynamic equilibrium, 43
dynamism, 321
•E•
edge
cutting off squares process, 66–70,
73–77
definition, 45, 321
Indian Defense, 212–213
space guidelines, 45
electronic resources
chess clubs, 344
chess programs, 259, 260
correspondence chess, 251
databases, 260
Deep Blue, 299
informational sites, 261
instructional software, 260
Internet chess, 261, 343
mail order, 342
elements. See also specific elements
definition, 10
importance, 10
overview, 41
elephant, 26
Elo, Arpad (rating system
developer), 247
Elo ratings, 247, 321
e-mail chess. See Internet chess
en passant capture
definition, 321
notation, 271
overview, 169–171
endgame
beginner’s mistakes, 147
bishop endings, 238–242
bishop movements, 28
definition, 11, 322
king movements, 33
knight and bishop values, 188
knight endings, 238–242
material strategies, 48
minor piece endings, 238–242
overview, 225
pattern recognition, 147–154
pawn-king endings, 227–237
rook endings, 237–238
space, 44
strategy, 226–227
study, 322
English Opening, 166
equal sign (=), 272
escape square, 322
etiquette, 251–255
Europe, 21
Euwe, Max (Judgment and Planning
in Chess), 179, 310
The Even More Complete Chess Addict
(Fox, Mike and James, Richard),
256, 342
The Evergreen Game (famous chess
game), 281–283
exchange variation, 268–270
exchanging pieces
bishop-bishop ending, 242
chess notation, 268–269
definition, 322
endgame strategy, 227
middlegame principles, 224
overview, 185–186
pawn formation, 146
uneven trades, 185
exclamation point (!), 272
experience, 216, 245–246
•F•
feedback, 260
fers, 322
fianchetto
definition, 89, 322
Dragon formation, 160–161
Indian Defenses, 212–213
Nimzo-Indian opening, 89
opening analysis, 199–200
overview, 158–159
FIDE (International Chess Federation)
definition, 322
Kasparov-Short match (1993), 251
Official Rules of Chess, 331, 341
origins of chess, 21
Index
overview, 250
ratings, 247
FIDE master (FM), 250, 322
50-move rule, 323
file
chess notation, 270–271
definition, 15, 323
illustrated, 16
middlegame principles, 224
naming system, 16
file-first method, 16
Fine, Ruben (The Ideas Behind
the Chess Openings), 140
Fingerfehler (finger-slip), 323
first board, 323
Fischer clock (chess clock), 323
Fischer, Robert J. (chess player)
overview, 306
versus Donald Byrne, 294–297, 324
fish, 323
flag, 323
flank
cutting off squares process, 66–70,
73–77
definition, 45
development, 323
Indian Defense, 212–213
openings, 323
space guidelines, 45
flight square, 323
fluid pawn center, 324
FM (FIDE master), 250
food, 255
fool’s mate, 324
forced move, 324
forcing nature, 138–139
forfeit, 247
fork
decoy, 102
definition, 324
overview, 82–87
formation
benefits of learning, 140
definition, 2, 11, 332
effect on game, 156–157
exchange of pieces, 146
overview, 155
strength and weakness analysis,
157–159
typical, 143–146
Forsyth notation, 324
forsythe notation, 263
Fox, Mike (The Even More Complete
Chess Addict), 256, 342
Frankenstein-Dracula (tactic), 82–87
free game, 83
Free Internet Chess Server
(Web site), 261
freeing move, 42
French bishop, 324
French Defense (opening)
drawback, 207, 208
pawn chain, 140–143
pawn formation, 156
Fritz (computer program), 259, 260
frontier line, 324
•G•
Gallagher, Joe (The Magic of
Mikhail Tal), 119
gambit
classic example, 110–112
definition, 50, 324
origin of term, 112
overview, 110
Game of the Century (Fischer-Byrne
game, 1956), 294–297, 324
grading, 324
grandmaster draw, 325
grandmaster (GM), 250, 325
Grandmaster of Chess (formal title), 325
Grünfeld, Ernst (chess player), 256
•H•
half-open file, 325
half-pin, 325
hand hover, 255
handle, 261
hanging pawn, 60, 325
351
352
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
heavy piece, 25
heuristics, 258
hole, 325
Hooper, David (The Oxford Companion
to Chess), 342
hypermodern, 325
•I•
ID, online, 261
The Ideas Behind the Chess Openings
(Fine, Ruben), 140
illegal move, 325–326
illegal position, 326
IM (international master), 250
The Immortal Game (famous chess
game), 278–281, 326
India, 21
Indian Defense (opening), 212–213, 326
initiative
definition, 50, 326
Queen’s Gambit, 184
instruction, 260–261
intermediate move, 339
international arbiter, 326
International Chess Federation (FIDE)
definition, 322
Kasparov-Short match (1993), 251
Official Rules of Chess, 331, 341
origins of chess, 21
overview, 250
ratings, 247
International Computer Chess
Association, 326
international grandmaster (GM), 326
international master (IM), 250, 326
international tournament, 250
international woman grandmaster, 327
Internet chess. See also computer chess
correspondence chess, 250–251
Kasparov versus the world, 299–303
overview, 12
procedure, 261–262
types, 261
Web sites, 251, 343
Internet Chess Club (Web site), 261
Internet resources
chess clubs, 344
chess programs, 259, 260
correspondence chess, 251
databases, 260
Deep Blue, 299
informational sites, 261
instructional software, 260
Internet chess, 261, 343
mail order, 342
interposing, 88
intuition, 137, 139
isolated pawn, 59–59, 327
Isouard, Count (chess player), 283–285
•J•
James, Richard (The Even More Complete
Chess Addict), 256, 342
John G. White Collection (library), 344
Judgment and Planning in Chess
(Euwe, Max), 179
•K•
Karl of Braunschweig, Duke
(chess player), 283–285
Karpov, Anatoly (chess player), 307
Karpov-Chom game (1977), 97–100
Kasparov, Garry (chess player)
cheating, 254
versus Deep Blue, 259, 297–299
versus Nigel Short, 251
overview, 305
versus the world, 299–303
Keres, Paul (chess player), 312
key square, 188–191
kibitz, 2, 327
Kieseritzky, Lionel (chess player),
278–281, 326
king
back rank mate, 124–125
capture basics, 32
castling process, 172–175
Index
center-counter opening, 51–52
check overview, 10, 63–65
check process, 66–70
chess notation, 264
classic bishop sacrifice, 112–114
clearance sacrifice, 99–100
cutting off squares process, 66–72,
74–77
decoy, 100–102
defense, 32
double check, 95–96
endgame basic strategy, 226–227
fork tactic, 84–87
hunt, 327
illegal capture, 88
King’s Gambit, 110–112
Lucena’s position, 148–154
major versus minor pieces, 25
movements, 32–33
opposition, 229–233
origins of chess, 21
overview, 31
pawn promotion, 173
pawn-king ending, 227–237
pin tactic, 88
placement on chessboard, 20
queen-knight mates, 129–133
Queen’s Gambit, 183–184
quickest checkmate, 53–54
rook endings, 238
rook-king checkmate, 70–78
Scheveningen formation, 163
scholar’s mate, 122–123
sign of resignation, 253
skewer tactic, 90–91
stalemate overview, 65–66
symbol, 18
temporary sacrifice, 115–117
king safety element
middlegame plan, 217–218
overview, 52–53
quickest checkmate, 53–54
King’s Gambit (classic gambit), 110–112
King’s Indian (opening), 212–213
kingside, 172, 327
Kmoch, Hans (Pawn Power in Chess), 217
knight
Alekhine’s Defense, 209
attack power, 33–34
versus bishop, 47
blockades, 192
center-counter opening, 52
chess notation, 264
classic bishop sacrifice, 112–114
clearance sacrifice, 98–100
Closed English formation, 166–167
destroying the guard, 104–105
discovered attack, 92–94
endgame, 238–242
exchange of, 185
fork tactic, 82–87, 327
French Defense, 142
Indian Defense, 212–213
isolated pawn blockades, 59
key square strategy, 189–191
middlegame principles, 224
movements, 34–35
Nimzo-Botvinnik formation, 168
Nimzo-Indian opening, 89–90
opening development, 194
origins of chess, 21
overview, 33
permanent sacrifice, 118–119
Petroff’s Defense, 202–206
placement on chessboard, 19
queen-knight mates, 129–133
Queen’s Gambit, 181–184
relative value, 47, 188
scholar’s mate, 122–123
space guidelines, 45
symbol, 18
temporary sacrifice, 115–117
knight’s tour, 35, 327
Koltanowski, George (grandmaster),
35, 173
Korchnoi, Viktor (chess player),
175, 307, 312
Kotov, Alexander (Think Like a
Grandmaster), 139
Kramnik, Vladimir (chess player), 310
353
354
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
•L•
ladder, 327–328
Lasker, Emanuel (chess player)
versus José Raúl Capablanca, 292–294
overview, 307–308
legal move, 328
Legall’s mate (mating pattern),
92–94, 328
Legall–St. Brie Paris game (1750), 92–94
letter, 15–17, 264
lever, 38, 328
Levitsky, Stepan (chess player), 290–292
lightning chess, 328
line, 100, 224
liquidation, 328
living chess, 328
locked pawn, 37–38
long algebraic notation, 328
long castling, 328
Lopez, Ruy (chess player), 112
loser, 256
loss on time, 247
Lucena’s position (endgame pattern),
147–154, 328
•M•
magazine, 246
The Magic of Mikhail Tal
(Gallagher, Joe), 119
major piece, 25, 329
majority, 329
manners
spite check, 65
tournament etiquette, 251–255
verbal “check,” 64
mantri, 21
Marshall Chess Club, 329, 344
Marshall, Frank (chess player), 290–292
Marshall swindle, 329
master, 329
master tournament, 329
match competition, 249, 329
Match of the Century (Soviet Union
versus the world), 329
mate. See also specific types
definition, 318
with king and queen, 66–70
with king and rook, 70–78
major pieces, 25
minor pieces, 25, 26, 239–240
opening, 193, 194
overview, 66
quickest, 53–54
material
guidelines, 48
middlegame plan, 217–218
overview, 46
strategies, 47–48
value of pieces, 46–47
mating attack, 329
mating net, 173
mating pattern. See also specific types
definition, 10
versus endgame patterns, 147
memorization, 121
overview, 121
mating sacrifice, 329
mechanical move, 329
Mechanics’ Institute Chess Room
(chess club), 344
memorization
mating patterns, 121
opening moves, 193
pattern recognition, 138
Mephisto (chess-playing device), 330
middlegame
attacks, 222–224
definition, 11, 330
general principles, 223–224
overview, 215–216
plan, 216–222
space strategies, 44
miniature, 330
minor exchange, 330
minor piece
definition, 26, 330
endgame, 238–242
minority attack
definition, 330
middlegame, 221–222
overview, 186–187
Index
minus/plus sign (–/+), 272
mismatch, 249
mistakes, beginner’s
check, 50, 157
endgame, 147
opening, 193–194
scholar’s mate, 122–123
tempo gains and losses, 50
mobility
definition, 330
endgame, 241–242
middlegame, 217–218
Modern Chess Strategy (Pachman,
Ludek), 217
Monster variation (tactic), 82–87
Morphy, Paul (chess player)
versus Duke Karl of Braunschweig and
Count Isouard, 283–285
mating patterns, 134, 136
Morphy’s mate (mating pattern),
134–136
moves. See combination; strategy; tactic
My System (Nimzowitsch, Aaron), 330
•N•
national master, 330
neoromantic play, 330
newspaper diagram, 272–273
Nimzo-Botvinnik formation, 167–168
Nimzo-Indian opening, 89–90
Nimzowitsch, Aaron (famous chess
player)
isolated pawns, 58–59
My System, 330
notorious loss, 256
popular opening, 89
weakened pawn chains, 140
norm, 330
notation
annotations, 272
captures, 266–267, 270–271
castling, 268, 269–270
chess pieces, 264
definition, 330
en passant capture, 271
exchanges, 268–269
newspaper diagrams, 272–273
opening, 264–266
overview, 12, 263
pawn promotion, 270
number, 15–17
•O•
obstructive sacrifice, 330
Official Rules of Chess (FIDE), 331, 341
one-half fraction (1⁄2), 272
online ID, 261
open file, 331
open game, 331
open tournament, 331
opening. See also specific moves
analysis of, 196–200
attacks on opponent, 195–196
beginner’s mistakes, 193–194
centralization, 180–184
checkmate, 193, 194
chess notation, 264–266
definition, 11, 331
development, 194–195
differences in names, 200
discussion among players, 200
importance, 193
king safety strategy, 53, 54
knight movements, 34–35
memorization of moves, 193
rook pawns, 26
space strategies, 42–45
transposed, 193
weird names, 214
opening theory, 193
opposite-colored bishop ending, 28
opposition
definition, 331
overview, 229–233
Orangutan (opening), 331
organic weakness, 331
outside passed pawn, 331
overloaded piece
definition, 332
overview, 106–107
355
356
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
overprotection, 332
The Oxford Companion to Chess (Hooper,
David and Whyld, Kenneth), 342
•P•
Pachman, Ludek (Modern Chess
Strategy), 217
pairing, 332
passed pawn
advantage, 57
bishop-bishop ending, 242
definition, 57
endgame basic strategy, 226–227
knight-knight ending, 240
pawn-king ending, 235–237
protected, 57–58
rook endings, 238
pattern recognition
calculations, 137, 138–139
endgame, 147–154
importance, 4, 10
memorization, 138
overview, 137
skill building, 138–139
pawn. See also specific types
Alekhine’s Defense, 209
back rank mate, 124–125
bishop movements, 28–29
blockades, 59, 191–192
capture basics, 36–39
Caro-Kann Defense, 208–209
center-counter opening, 51–52
classic bishop sacrifice, 112–114
clearance sacrifice, 98–100
Closed English formation, 166–167
discovered attack, 92–94
double king pawn opening, 201–207
double queen pawn opening, 210–211
en passant method, 169–171
first impressions, 155
fork tactic, 82–87
French Defense, 207, 208
importance, 37
Indian Defense, 212–213
key square strategy, 189–191
king-pawn ending, 227–237
King’s Gambit, 110–112
knight-bishop ending, 242
lever strategy, 38
locked, 37–38
minority attack, 186–187, 221–222
Morphy’s mate, 135
movements, 36–39
Nimzo-Botvinnik formation, 168
opening analysis, 196–200
opening development, 195
opening space strategies, 43–45
origins of chess, 21
overloaded pieces, 106–107
overview, 35
permanent sacrifice, 117–119
Petroff’s Defense, 203–206
Philidor’s Defense, 206–207
placement on chessboard, 20–21
queen-pawn mates, 125–129
Queen’s Gambit, 181–181, 210–211
quickest checkmate, 53–54
relative value, 47
rook movements, 26
Ruy Lopez opening, 201–202
scholar’s mate, 122–123
Sicilian Defense, 207, 208
The Slav, 211
space guidelines, 45
symbol, 18
temporary sacrifice, 115–117
pawn chain
definition, 61, 332
French Defense opening, 140–143
overview, 61–62
weakening tips, 62, 140–141
pawn duo, 39, 55
pawn formation. See also specific types
benefits of learning, 140
definition, 2, 11, 332
effect on game, 156–157
exchange of pieces, 146
overview, 155
strength and weakness analysis,
157–159
typical, 143–146
Index
pawn grabbing, 332
Pawn Power in Chess (Kmoch, Hans), 217
pawn promotion. See also queening a
pawn
chess notation, 270
definition, 148, 334
Lucena’s position, 148
overview, 171–172
pawn-king ending, 227–237
pawn quadrant, 227–229
pawn square method, 227–229
pawn storm, 332
pawn structure
backward pawns, 59
definition, 39, 332
doubled pawns, 60–61
guidelines, 62
hanging pawns, 60
isolated pawns, 58–59
middlegame plan, 217–221
overview, 54–56, 139–140
passed pawns, 57–58
pawn chains, 61–62
Pawn Structure Chess (Soltis, Andy), 140
pawns, queening. See queening a pawn
pay-to-play site, 261
PCA (Professional Chess
Association), 251
perfect score, 333
permanent sacrifice, 117–119
perpetual check, 65, 333
Petroff’s Defense opening
overview, 202–206
tempo gains and losses, 49–50
Petrosian, Tigran (chess player), 310
phalanx, 333
Philidor, François-André Danican
(chess player), 309
Philidor’s Defense (opening), 206–207
piece, chess
color, 13
definition, 12
design, 13
key to power, 55
major pieces, 25
notation, 264
ordering information, 12, 342
overview, 23
placement on chessboard, 18–21
relative values, 46–47
science versus art, 23
selection, 13–14
symbols, 18
tournament rules, 246, 254–255
wood versus other materials, 13–14
piece exchange
bishop-bishop ending, 242
chess notation, 268–269
definition, 322
endgame strategy, 227
middlegame principles, 224
overview, 185–186
pawn formation, 146
uneven trades, 185
Pillsbury, Harry Nelson (chess
player), 311
pin tactic, 87–88, 333
plan, 216–222
Playchess (Web site), 261
playoff, 333
plus sign (+), 272
plus/minus sign (+/–), 272
Pogo (Web site), 261
poisoned pawn, 333
Polgar, Judit (chess player), 254
position
definition, 216
middlegame attacks, 222
middlegame plan, 216–217
positional advantage, 184
positional understanding, 185
postal chess, 250
postmortem session, 253, 333
pound sign (#), 272
prepared variation, 333
preventive sacrifice, 333
Professional Chess Association
(PCA), 251
promotion. See pawn promotion
protected passed pawn, 57–58, 334
pseudo-sacrifice, 115–117
Purdy, Cecil (famous chess player), 55
357
358
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
•Q•
Quad tournament, 249
queen
attack power, 31
capture basics, 30
center-counter opening, 51–52
check process, 66–70
chess notation, 264
classic bishop sacrifice, 112–114
clearance sacrifice, 97–100
cutting off squares process, 66–70
decoy, 100–102
defense, 31
deflection sacrifice, 102–104
destroying the guard, 104–105
discovered attack, 92–94
double check, 95–96
fork tactic, 83–87
French Defense, 142
history of piece, 30
isolated pawn blockades, 59
key square strategy, 191
king-queen checkmate, 66–70
knight-queen mates, 129–133
major versus minor pieces, 25
middlegame principles, 224
Morphy’s mate, 134–136
movements, 30–31
opening analysis, 197–200
opening development, 194
origins of chess, 21
overloaded pieces, 106–107
overview, 30
pawn-queen mates, 125–129
Petroff’s Defense, 204–206
pin tactic, 87–88
placement on chessboard, 19–20
quickest checkmate, 53–54
relative value, 47
scholar’s mate, 122–123
skewer tactic, 90–91
stalemate overview, 65–66
symbol, 18
temporary sacrifice, 115–117
queening a pawn. See also pawn
promotion
definition, 148
endgame strategy, 227
king-pawn ending, 232, 236–237
Lucena’s position, 148, 150, 154
opposition, 230–231
overview, 171–172
pattern recognition, 148, 150, 154
rook endings, 238
queening square, 172, 334
Queen’s Gambit, 180–184, 210–211
Queen’s Indian (opening), 213
queenside, 172
question mark (?), 272
quiet move, 334
•R•
rajah, 21
rank
definition, 15
illustrated, 15
middlegame principles, 224
naming system, 15
rapid chess, 334
rating, 247–248, 334
recaptured pieces, 111, 145
recognizing patterns
calculations, 137, 138–139
endgame, 147–154
importance, 4, 10
memorization, 138
overview, 137
skill building, 138–139
recording games, 335
removing the defender, tactical theme, 85
repetition of position, 335
Reshevsky, Samuel (chess player), 312
resignation, 252–253
restraining advance, 191
retailer, equipment, 12, 342
Réti’s mate (checkmate), 96
Réti-Tartakower Vienna game (1910),
94–96
retrograde analysis, 335
Index
return match clause, 309
rook
back rank mate, 124–125
capture basics, 25
castling process, 172–175
chess notation, 264
clearance sacrifice, 97–100
cutting off squares process, 70–78
decoy, 101–102
deflection sacrifice, 102–104
destroying the guard, 104–105
double check, 96
endgame, 237–238
Lucena’s position, 148–154
major versus minor pieces, 25
middlegame principles, 224
Morphy’s mate, 134–136
movements, 24–25
opening development, 194
origins of chess, 21
overloaded pieces, 106–107
overview, 24
pawn promotion, 172
pin tactic, 87–90
placement on chessboard, 18
queen-knight mates, 129–130
Queen’s Gambit, 183–184
relative value, 47
sacrifice, 126–127
symbol, 18
rook pawn, 26
Rotlewi, Georg (chess player), 288–290
round-robin tournament, 249, 335
Rubinstein, Akiba (grandmaster)
versus Georg Rotlewi, 288–290
overview, 311
rook endings, 237
rule of the square, 227–229
running away, 88
Ruy Lopez opening, 201–202, 335
•S•
sacrifice. See also specific types
bishop, 112–114
combination, 97–100
decoy, 320
definition, 48, 109, 335
double check, 95–96
drama, 110
gambits, 110–112
knight-knight ending, 240–241
overview, 109–110
pawn-king ending, 236
queen-knight mate, 132–133
queen-pawn mate, 125–128
rationale, 10
rook, 126–127
sandbagger, 248
Scheveningen formation, 161–163
Schiller, Eric (Unorthodox Openings), 214
scholar’s mate, 122–123, 335
science, 23
scope, 27
score
definition, 264, 335
scorekeeping, 273–274
score sheet
definition, 264, 335
example, 273–274
The Scotch opening, 202
sealed move, 335
second, 336
seesaw, 336
sharp opening, 82, 336
short castling, 336
Short, Nigel (chess player), 251
Sicilian Defense (opening)
overview, 207–208
variations, 159–163
simplification, 47
simultaneous display, 336
skewer tactic, 90–91, 336
skittles, 336
The Slav (opening), 211
smothered mate, 131, 336
Smyslov, Vasily (chess player), 221, 310
software, 259–260, 272
Soltis, Andy (Pawn Structure Chess), 140
sound combination, 97
space
guidelines, 45
importance, 46
middlegame principles, 224
359
360
Chess For Dummies, 2nd Edition
space (continued)
opening strategies, 42–45
overview, 41–42
Spanish game (opening), 201–202
Spassky, Boris (chess player), 310
special move, 169–175
speculative move, 336
Spielmann, Rudolf (chess player), 179
spite check, 65, 336
sportsmanship
spite check, 65
tournament etiquette, 251–255
verbal “check,” 64
squares, on chessboard
attacked versus contested, 42
bishop’s attack power, 27
color, 14
knight’s attack power, 34
naming system, 15–17
number, 15
queen placement, 19
queen’s attack power, 31
stalemate
bishop-bishop ending, 242
definition, 4, 10, 321overview, 65–66
rook endings, 238
tournament etiquette, 253–254
Staunton design, 13, 337
Staunton, Howard (chess player), 13
Steinitz, Wilhelm (chess player),
285–288, 308
Stonewall formation, 163–164
strategic outpost, 188–191
strategy. See also specific strategies
center control, 180–184
endgame, 226–227
importance, 11
overview, 179–180
structure
backward pawns, 59
definition, 39, 332
doubled pawns, 60–61
guidelines, 62
hanging pawns, 60
isolated pawns, 58–59
middlegame plan, 217–221
overview, 54–56, 139–140
passed pawns, 57–58
pawn chains, 61–62
swindle, 337
Swiss Gambit (tournament strategy), 249
Swiss system, 248–249, 337
symbol, 272
symmetrical pawn structure, 337
symmetry, 337
•T•
tactic. See also specific tactics
definition, 11, 82, 337
importance, 10, 81
taking turns, 48–49
Tal, Mikhail (grandmaster), 119, 309–310
Tarrasch, Siegbert (chess player),
237, 311
Tartakower, Saviely (chess player), 95
tempo
beginner’s mistakes, 50
definition, 49, 337
development, 49–50
gains and losses, 49–50
temporary sacrifice, 115–117
text move, 337
thematic move, 338
theoretical novelty, 338
theory, 338
Think Like a Grandmaster
(Kotov, Alexander), 139
tiebreaking system, 338
tied game
bishop-bishop ending, 242
definition, 4, 321
overview, 65–66
rook endings, 238
tournament etiquette, 253–254
time
control, 247
learning needs, 1
limit, 273, 338
trouble, 338
top board, 323, 338
touch-move rule, 254–255, 338
Index
tournament
book of games, 338
chess set design, 13
clubs, 245–246
definition, 338
etiquette, 251–255
international, 250
overview, 12, 245
queen-pawn mates, 129
score sheet, 273–274
touch-move rule, 254–255
U.S. basics, 246–249
transposed opening, 194
trap
definition, 193–194, 338
Petroff’s Defense, 203–205
traveling set, 13
tree of analysis, 139
triangulation, 339
tripled pawn
definition, 60, 339
remedy, 61
turn taking, 48–49
•U•
underpromoting, 171, 339
undoubling, 339
unintentional loss, 109
unit, 339
United States Chess Federation (USCF),
246, 247, 339
Unorthodox Openings (Benjamin, Joel
and Schiller, Eric), 214
unsound combination, 97
•V•
vacating sacrifice, 339
variation, 97
Vienna game (opening sequence), 82–87
vizier, 21, 30
Von Bardeleben, Kurt (chess player),
285–288
Vukovic, Vladimir (The Art of Attack),
121, 223
•W•
warfare, 11
Web server. See Internet chess
Web sites
chess clubs, 344
chess programs, 259, 260
correspondence chess, 251
databases, 260
Deep Blue, 299
informational sites, 261
instructional software, 260
Internet chess, 261, 343
mail order, 342
The Week in Chess (Web site), 343
white square, 14, 50
Whyld, Kenneth (The Oxford Companion
to Chess), 342
wing
cutting off squares process, 66–70,
73–77
definition, 45
Indian Defense, 212–213
space guidelines, 45
wood sets and boards, 13–14
woodpusher, 216, 339
world championship, 250
World Chess Hall of Fame & Sidney
Samole Chess Museum, 344
•Y•
Your Move Chess & Games (retailer), 342
•Z•
Zugzwang (forced move), 188, 339
Zwischenzug (intermediate move), 339
361
Notes
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