THE TINY ISLAND NATION OF MALTA, smaller even than Launceston, has seen its popularity soar, as tourists come for its pristine coastline, rich history and diverse cultural influences. Yet its cuisine remains largely unknown to those outside of the archipelago, which sits between Sicily and the coast of North Africa, and where its neighbours have played an instrumental role in influencing the flavours and techniques found in Maltese cooking.
Two Australians who know how unique this cuisine is are cookbook author Julia Busuttil Nishimura and chef Jacqui Challinor (Nomad Group) who grew up eating this food with their Maltese families.
“Growing up in a Maltese family is the reason I love food,” says Challinor. “A Maltese plate is reflective of its history, with Arabic, English and Mediterranean influences; at its heart, it is humble and truly soul nourishing.
“It opened my eyes to different flavours and ingredients, as well as that connection between family and food.”
Likewise for Busuttil Nishimura, Maltese cuisine was the taste of home. “Maltese cooking was such an important part of my childhood,” says the cookbook author. “Spending days in the kitchen making pastizzi and ravjul or hanging out at the Maltese club for a feast day were regular occurrences. It was when I started school that I discovered that all of these foods I had grown up with were quite different – rabbit, ricotta, dates, spices, capers and broad beans. Every time I cook with my family here, and back in Malta, I grow more proud of our beautiful cuisine and culture and just how much the Maltese islands have to offer.” Here,