Brittany West Coast: Includes Brest, Quimper & Côtes d’Armor

To visit the west of Brittany is to see this intriguing region at its most distinctively Breton: a spirited mix of vibrant traditional culture and an innovative society embracing modernity. The cities of Quimper and St-Brieuc show this in their medieval architecture and contemporary buzz, whilst post-war Brest with its powerful maritime heritage has always provided a portal to the wider world.

Celtic culture of all kinds is celebrated throughout the year in many festivals involving song, dance, local culinary traditions and colourful costumes. The Breton language, which sprang from early migrations from Great Britain when Brittany or ‘Little Britain’ came into existence, is still spoken in this area today.

Brittany is most famous for its magnificent coastline, especially spectacular in the west, from the wonders of the Pink Granite Coast in Côtes d’Armor to the pulsating Atlantic breakers on the wild shores of Finistère. Families in search of beach holidays and watersports lovers will find all they could desire for sandcastle-building, swimming, sailing and surfing. Walkers will enjoy the breathtaking route of the shore-hugging GR34 footpath. By contrast, this coast also retains evidence of the Second World War with the Atlantic Wall defences and memorials to the struggles of the Resistance. The fishing ports of Douarnenez and Le Guilvinec still welcome the daily catch home, reserving the marine flavour that characterizes a major fishing area, and some of the largest sailing harbours on the French Atlantic seaboard are to be found here.

The interior of this area is dominated by the Monts d’Arrée, the highest hills in Brittany, a primitive landscape of exposed schist peaks and long views, perfect for outdoor activities or megalith-hunting. Elsewhere the Argoat (land of the woods) offers a lush contrast with deep river valleys and hill-tops strewn with that Brittany trademark, the huge granite boulder.

It’s hard to imagine a greater density of memorable things to see and do than in the northwest tip of France.

Planning your trip

See map 1.1.

It’s difficult to generalise about the weather in Brittany – it varies enormously from region to region, from coast to inland and even from one side of a hill to the other. Generally the south and east are warmer and less wet than the areas close to the Atlantic coast. Recent years have seen hot early summers in June/July, followed by wet Augusts. Water-sports and coastal activities are popular year-round, and spring and autumn are both good choices for walking and cycling holidays, with moderate temperatures and fewer visitors. Heritage sites are In business from Easter onwards, although some also have limited winter opening. Out of the main season, there are fewer accommodation options, so planning ahead is a good idea.

Finistère

This westernmost department of Brittany has the best coastal variety of all, with the endless beaches and towering cliffs of the Atlantic shore. The Crozon Peninsula and Cap Sizun provide the finest sea views, walking and water-based activities that anyone could wish for. Northwest of Brest is the westernmost point of France at Pointe de Corsen, and also the tallest standing menhir in France near St-Renan. Brest itself is essentially a modern university city, but there’s plenty of interest with three port areas and the well-preserved château housing a maritime museum.

In the south of the department, Quimper could not be more different – compact and bright, with a really enjoyable medieval centre of ultra-modern shops and a breathtaking cathedral. The town of Pont l’Abbé just to the south is the heart of Pays Bigouden, a distinctive area with a long maritime history and still strong on Breton traditions today.

In the centre of Finistère, the Monts d’Arrée are the highest hills in Brittany. They’re hardly mountains, but look impressive in the range of lonely schist peaks and empty moorland, set around the bowl of a reservoir and topped by the tiny chapel of St-Michel. There is plenty of scope for cultural or activity holidays in this extremely quiet area, which deserves to be better known, not only for its landscape but also as the home of some of the earliest established eco-museums in France. Just to the north is the old town of Morlaix, sacked by the English in 1522, but now more peaceably the first stop for those off the ferry at Roscoff. The ancient centre has some extraordinary old houses that you won’t see elsewhere, and delightful twisting stepped passageways wiggling across the hillsides. Easily accessible from here are the enclos paroissiaux (parish closes), a phenomenon of religious architecture that draws visitors from afar. St-Thégonnec, Guimiliau and Lampaul-Guimiliau are close enough to visit in succession. Most of central Finistère is part of the regional Parc Naturel d’Armorique.

Côtes d’Armor

This department was called Côtes du Nord until the 1990s when it was deemed necessary to shed a rather wintry image. Armor, the land of the sea, has a stunning northern coastline, with its craggy cliffs – the highest in Brittany near Plouha and the most exotic along the Pink Granite coast around Perros-Guirec, where the fantastically shaped rock formations draw visitors from all over the world. Boat trips to the Sept Iles bird reserve and the popular Ile de Bréhat are further attractions. In summer this whole area is packed with people and, inevitably, cars. The Côte de Goëlo offers many sandy beaches, cliff-top walks and friendly traditional family resorts like Binic and Saint-Quay Portrieux.

The only large town of Côtes d’Armor is St-Brieuc, buried deep in a double valley below the motorway flyover. It has a small medieval quarter, dominated by the somewhat prison-like Cathedral of St-Etienne and a port area down at Le Légué. Lannion Is a rather more lively and engaging town, and Tréguier, centre of the Trégor region, is a real gem of a place. Both these towns have strong visual appeal, with bright half-timbered houses and some exceptional religious architecture. Tréguier’s cathedral is the finest example.

Inland, there are no big towns, and it is much less densely populated than the coastal area, with rocky or wooded undulating countryside, called the Argoat (Land of the Woods), granite villages, isolated chapels and many Neolithic standing stones or burial places.

Cathedral of St-Corentin, Quimper According to legend, King Gradlon called on St-Corentin to be the first bishop of Quimper in the fifth century. Building of the current cathedral started in 1239 but was delayed by the turbulence of war and plague in the 14th century. On resumption, the nave was added at a crooked angle, an oddity which only enhances the radiance of the interior today. here.

Menhir de Kerloas This is the tallest upright standing stone in France, at almost 11 m. Legend said that hidden treasure beneath the menhir was revealed when the stone went off to drink from the ocean on the first stroke of midnight on Christmas Eve. However, since it returned on the second stroke, no one ever had time to get rich and stay alive. here.

Camaret One of the most attractive ports in Brittany, Camaret has a long fishing tradition and a reputation as the place for lobsters. At the end of the natural curving cob is the glowing Tour Vauban, which fought off an English attack in 1694. Brightly painted houses, swimming beaches and superb coastal walks along the cliff paths add to the attraction. here.

Morlaix This fascinating town, long a trading contact and rival of England, is often overlooked by tourists getting off the ferry at Roscoff and whizzing past on their way south. The ancient centre is dominated by the towering granite viaduct which brought the Paris–Brest railway line in the 1860s. Don’t miss the unique architectural form of the maisons à pondalez. here.

Monts d’Arrée These ‘mountains’ are in fact the highest hills in Brittany. The bleak moors and craggy peaks often rise out of waves of thick mist over the basin of the reservoir at the heart of the Amorican regional park. Beware the black dog roaming the marshes at night! The mystical atmosphere is heightened by the little chapel of St-Michel, a lone sentinel on its hilltop. here.

Côte de Goëlo With the highest cliffs in Brittany near Plouha, glorious beaches, secluded coves and a series of pretty ports, this stretch of coastline has everything to offer for a family holiday or for those interested in outdoor activities. Following the coastal path along the green heights provides panoramic views and seascapes in the Bay of St-Brieuc. here.

Tréguier cathedral This glorious cathedral contains the tomb of St-Yves, patron saint of Brittany, a lawyer famous for his impartial treatment of both rich and poor. Lawyers from all over the world attend the Pardon of St-Yves in May each year, when the relic of his skull is taken in procession to Minihy where he was born in 1250. here.

Pink Granite Coast Weird and wonderful best describes the remarkable rock formations along this section of the northern coast, and the glowing pink of the granite only adds to the spectacle. Names like The Tortoise and Napoleon’s Hat give an idea of what to expect, but it’s the sheer size and scale of this geological wonder that’s dazzling. here.

Air

From UK and Ireland Two budget airlines connect the UK to Brittany. You can fly to Dinard airport (near St-Malo) from the East Midlands or Stansted with Ryanair (ryanair.com). Prices are from €30 one way. Dinard airport is at Pleurtuit, and does not have a shuttle service, so taxis will be necessary to get to the nearest big centre at St-Malo (9 km/allow €20).

Flybe (flybe.com) has budget flights into Rennes airport from Southampton, Manchester, Leeds, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Belfast, from €50 one way. The airport is 20 minutes by bus (No 57) from the centre.

Flybe also has flights to Brest (Guipavas), although Ryanair has withdrawn this route at the time of writing. From here a bus shuttle service (€4.60 single, €8.40 return) goes to the city centre and station. These cheap flights are not year round and are liable to change, so check websites for details.

AerLingus (aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Rennes and Aer Arann (aerarann.com) from Ireland to Lorient and Brest (not all year round).

Air France (airfrance.fr) provides a regular service to Paris and also flies from Paris (Charles de Gaulle airport) to the regional airports of Rennes, Brest, Lorient, Lannion and Quimper.

From North America There are flights to Paris with Air France, British Airways, Delta; then go via Air France to regional airports, or take the train to the major towns around Brittany.

Airport information Dinard airport (T02 99 46 18 46, dinard.aeroport.fr, and good information from the unofficial site dinardairport.net); Brest airport (T02 98 32 86 00, or T02 98 32 86 37 for parking info, brest.aeroport.fr); Rennes airport (T02 99 29 60 00, rennes.aeroport.fr ); Lorient airport (lorient-aeroport.fr).

Car-hire facilities are available at all the airports, with local details on the airport websites. The companies with offices in major towns are Hertz (hertz.com.fr), Avis (avis.fr), Europcar (europcar.fr) and Sixt (sixt.fr).

Rail

You can travel by Eurostar from St Pancras to Paris, Gare du Nord in 2½ hours, and then continue by high-speed TGV from Gare Montparnasse to all the major towns in Brittany (Rennes two hours, Brest and Quimper four hours). Changing from the Eurostar at Lille and proceeding direct to Rennes is easier, avoiding the station change in Paris.

European Rail (europeanrail.com) and Rail Europe (raileurope.co.uk) have details of