Saddlery and Harness-Making

CONTENTS.

    I.—Gentleman’s Riding Saddle

   II.—Panel for Gentleman’s Saddle

  III.—Ladies’ Side Saddles

  IV.—Children’s Saddles or Pilches

   V.—Saddle Cruppers, Breastplates, and other Accessories

  VI.—Riding Bridles

 VII.—Breaking-down Tackle

VIII.—Head Collars

  IX.—Horse Clothing

   X.—Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles

  XI.—Repairing Harness and Saddlery

 XII.—Re-lining Collars and Saddles

XIII.—Whips, Hunting Crops, etc.

XIV.—Set of Gig Harness

Index

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

1.—Saddle Tree

2.—Gentleman’s Riding Saddle

3.—Saddle Skirt

4.—Saddle Flap

5.—Saddle Panel

6.—Tree for Side Saddle

7.—Lady’s Near-side Flap and Safe

8.—Lady’s Saddle with Quilted Skirt and Leaping Head

9.—Saddle Crupper

10.—Saddle Breastplate

11.—Martingale

12.—Saddle Girth

13.—Saddle Girth

14.—Saddle Girth

15.—Saddle Girth

16.—Saddle Girth

17.—Saddle Cloth

18.—Riding Bridle

19.—Pelham Bridle

20.—Weymouth Bridle

21.—Breaking-down Tackle

22.—Cavison Iron

23.—Newmarket Head Collar

24.—Albert Head Collar

25.—Queen’s Pattern Head Collar

26.—Quarter Sheet

27.—Breast Cloth

28.—Pad Cloth

29.—Hood

30.—Horse Covered

31.—Body Roller

32.—Body Roller

33, 34.—Kneecap

35.—Kneecap

36.—Fetlock Boot

37.—Fetlock Boot

38.—Lace Speedy-cut Boot

39.—Buckle Speedy-cut Boot

40.—Ring Boot

41.—False Collar

42.—Complete Set of Harness

43.—Spliced Leather Run

44.—Hame Tug Clip

45.—Spliced Trace

46.—Cab Collar

47.—Lining of Cab Collar

48.—Collar

49.—Panel Saddle

50.—Swelled Flap Cab Saddle

51.—Panel of Swelled Cab Saddle

52.—Straight Awl

53.—Bow-top, or Carter’s Whip

54.—Drop-thong, or Dealer’s Whip

55.—Gig or Coaching Whip

56—58.—Methods of Splicing Broken Stock of Whip Stock

59.—Method of Joining Thong and Stock of Drop-thong Whip

60.—Method of Fixing Silk or Cord Lash to End of Whip Thong

61.—Method of Fixing Silk or Cord Lash to End of Whip Thong

62.—Method of Fixing Twisted Gut or Hide Point to Carter’s Whip

63, 64.—Methods of Joining New Plaited Point to Old Whip Thong

65.—Method of Joining New Plaited Point to Old Whip Thong

66.—Plaiting Four-stranded Square Sennit

67.—Plaiting Eight-stranded Square Sennit

68.—Plaiting Whip Lash without Heart

69.—Plaiting Whip Lash with Heart

70.—Beginning Groundwork or Mesh

71.—Second Course of Mesh

72.—Mesh Complete

73.—Ferrule Complete

74.—Mesh on Single Turk’s Head

75.—Single Turk’s Head Complete

76.—Raised Turk’s Head

77.—Small Button for Hunting Crop

78.—Four-strand Button for Hunting Crop

79.—Beginning Small Button

80.—Nose-band

81.—Drop, or Breastplate Ornament

82.—Bradoon Chain

83.—Gig Saddle

84.—Gig Saddle Tree

85.—Gig Saddle Skirt

86.—Stand Hook

87.—Gig Flap Showing Cuts

88.—Hame Tug with Safe

89.—Gig Tree

90.—Kicking Strap

91.—Kicking Strap in Three Parts

92.—Melton Rein with Billet

93.—Laced Rein Hand Part

94.—Stuffed Hand Part

95.—Lay on Hand Part

96.—Plaited Hand Part

97, 98.—Rein Stops

99.—Breeching Loop Buckle

SADDLERY.

CHAPTER I.

GENTLEMAN’S RIDING SADDLE.

THIS handbook will treat on practical saddlery as more or less distinct from the making and repairing of harness, which is discussed in a companion volume on Harness Making, where, however, will be found full descriptions of all tools, appliances, and materials necessary for the work. The elementary processes of cutting up hides, stitching, etc., are also explained in the volume on Harness Making, and bits, spurs, stirrups, and furniture of all kinds fully described and illustrated. It is assumed here that the worker has a general acquaintance with the craft of the harness-maker.

In making a gentleman’s riding saddle, the first article needed is a tree (Fig. 1), which can be bought with a round cantle (the back rising part) or with a square one rounded at the corners, and running in a straight line at the top.

The gullet or fore part of the tree is made in many styles; it may be straight or slanting backwards towards the seat, and it can be obtained full, half, or quarter cut. The tree may be measured along the centre, but the trade method is to measure it at the sides; the seat is measured across the widest part.

There are different styles of saddles both as regards work and material—namely, full shafts, covered all over with hogskin, with knee-pads or flaps; all hogskin without knee-pads, a style which is called all over hogskin plain flaps; or full shafts, top and solid flaps—that is, the seat and skirts are hogskin, and the flap is of solid single-stamped leather, plain without knee-pads.

Another style is called shafts top demi-flap, the seat and skirts being covered with hogskin and a knee-pad with hogskin on a plain flap. Another variety is the half shafts with only solid skirts, the seat and flaps being covered with hogskin and having knee-pads on flaps. The commonest style, however, is a hogskin seat with solid leather skirts and flaps and without knee-pads on the flaps.

The saddle bars to which the stirrup leathers are fastened also vary in make and pattern; there is the ordinary spring bar and numerous patent bars, the attempt being to obtain a secure fastening for the strap and at the same time a loosening of it, in case of accident, to prevent the rider being dragged along by the foot.

Fig. 1.—Saddle Tree.

The hanging or setting of the flaps is a mere matter of taste; sometimes the bottom slopes forward, and sometimes the flap is in a straight line with the front of the saddle (see Fig. 2).

To make a saddle, begin by preparing enough straining web to run along the centre twice its length and once over, with 4 in. hanging down below the tree just outside the saddle bars and towards the back. Having damped the web, nail each end firmly to a board—unless a web strainer is used—and then push something underneath it to stretch it to the utmost.

After letting it dry, damp it once or twice according to the stretching necessary, but let it dry before being again damped. When stretched, cut it in two and nail two ends of it at the head of the tree in front, just outside the iron plate, one end slanting slightly to one side and the other to the opposite side.

Having pulled them together tight, nail them at the back of the tree low down below the cantle on the flat part. This slanting position throws them from 5 in. to 6 in. apart at the back as they are required; with headed saddle tacks nail them down closely, and tack the other piece of web across close to the saddle bar, bringing it a little under the point where the bar is riveted to the trees. Let 4 in. hang down on each side, and pull it very tightly over the web at the top, nailing it down with saddle tacks.

Fig. 2.—Gentleman’s Riding Saddle.

Next take another piece of web (any diaper web will do) and lay it close to the other web behind, then nail it down tightly; but it need not hang over. Run a stitch from one web to the other, joining them across the top. A piece of strong linen, large enough to run from the web all round the seat behind, is stitched across to the web; nail it round the sides and back of the seat, covering the points of the web nailed behind.

Having pulled it tight, nail it in a position which gives the seat when stuffed a suitable rise towards the cantle, as this is the ground for the stuffing. Now stitch another piece of linen to the web in front to cover this part, and nail it firmly all round, and the seat will then be covered over without hollow but with a foundation for stuffing.

Take a piece of basil leather about 6 in. long or a little less, double it together along the centre, making it pointed at one end and rather full at the other. When stuffed it should be a little thicker than the middle finger at the full end, tapering away to a fine point at the other. Stitch the edges together from one side to the other, but not over, and leave a small opening at one end, through which the pad can then be stuffed smoothly and tightly with flock. The hole must now be closed and flattened slightly with the mallet. This raises each side of the seat near the root of the cantle, the thick end being close to the cantle and the fine end running forward. Put the pads in their places on each side, flush with the edge of the tree, and, after rounding them to follow the shape, nail them on the inside, putting a nail in the thick end to fasten it to the cantle at the bottom.

The seat must be covered all over with white serge; nail it over the edge of the cantle and over the gullet underneath in front, and underneath the sides as far as where the web hangs down by the bar. From this point towards the front, backstitch it coarsely to just the shape of the skirt and seat; thus the seat is gradually narrowed from the bottom to near the front part of the tree, but just in the front it widens slightly. The shape must be studied and the stitching done accordingly, of course through the foundation and cover at this part.

Now back-stitch the cover through the tree for exactly the length of the leather pads placed at the sides, in order to draw the cover in a little under the side of the pads and allow the seat and skirts at the joint of each to enter the hollow when the seat is adjusted.

Rub a patch, about 2 1/2 in. by 1 in., in the centre of the cover with a lump of black wax, so that it will not unravel when a hole is cut there for stuffing. In the centre of this patch cut a slit 1 1/4 in. long, and, after passing a pound of white flock through the carding machine three or four times and clipping the wool, if long, with scissors, put it through the opening in small quantities. Use the seat iron for this work, moving the flock about to the sides to prevent lumps; continue stuffing until all is firm and level. Pass the left hand over the seat to ascertain that there is no unevenness, and level it with the seat awl held in the right hand; great care is needed to perform this operation properly. When the stuffing is finished a stitch must be run in the opening.

The seat, which should be cut from a piece of good hogskin large enough to cover the seat well and be nailed underneath, can now be adjusted. Damp and nail it on firmly, taking care that it is quite smooth in all parts; nail it underneath over the sides and at the back in such a manner that the nails can easily be pulled out with a claw, and that no mark will be left when the saddle is finished. Any mark would be visible and would stain the leather, thus completely spoiling the work. Pull it together behind the cantle so as to make all the small pleats form two large ones, one on each side of the crupper staple; thus they can be cut and the edges stitched neatly together when dry.

After letting the seat dry, cut the skirts (Fig. 3) from a flat piece of brown skirt leather, and cover them with hogskin, which must be pasted over them before stitching and then allowed to dry; or paste a piece of serge on them, running to within 1/4 in. from the edge all round, and, when dry, cover them with hogskin and stitch without pasting.

Before either covering or stitching, cut a piece of hogskin belly to run at a distance of 1 in. from the edge along the under part of the skirt to within 4 in. from the narrow point and 1 1/2 in. beyond in front, but low enough down to be nailed under the tree when the skirt is in place. Paste some linen on the flesh side of this for lining, and when it has dried put it in position on the skirt and cut holes through the skirt over the edge with a shoemaker’s bent awl. The holes must not go through, but only be raised in the grain, which will be the under side when the skirt is finished.

Stitch on the hogskin cover, making fine stitches with yellow hemp, silk, or white linen thread, and beeswax near the edge. Run a row of stitches along the top 3/4 in. from the edge from end to end, and then rub, polish, and finish well. When the piece to be nailed to the tree is dry, stitch it with fine cord beeswax thread through the holes previously made. Next prepare the flaps.

Knee-pads must be put in the front part of each flap along the side; then add the serge cover for stuffing, which must reach from the point of the skirt to the bottom, and be of the same shape as the flap on the outside and straight on the inside to within 3 in. of the top, and thence turned round to the front. Spot the serge in from underneath, marking the straight line with a rule and creasing the outer line far enough inside to allow of stitching over again between it and the edge.

Slip two or three stitches just at the turning from the straight line at the top, bringing the thread over the serge so that there will be a hollow to stuff through before making another stitch. Then take the flap or shafteau block, and through the flap put a nail into the board in each end of the pad; stuff it full and evenly through the opening left for the purpose, moving the flock to its place with the seat awl. Give the pad a good shape, full in front and sloping towards the inside.

Fig. 3.—Saddle Skirt.

A small flat padding must also be placed on the opposite side of the flap at the top corner just below the swelling of the skirts from the narrow part over the flap. Spot a piece of serge slack there exactly the same shape as this corner of the skirt, and straight towards the bottom edge of the flap. A small opening like that in the knee-pad must be left for stuffing; fill it level. The flaps must be cut in pairs, and, like the skirts, should be made with the grain side underneath outside.

When the pads are on the flap, paste a piece of hogskin over them; then let them dry on the shafteau block to its shape. The hogskin must always be damped before the paste is applied, then pulled tightly over, and the nails must be placed so that their marks can be cut off. A band of leather will also be needed along the straight side of the knee-pad to keep the hogskin close to the flap. Along the front run a smooth piece of string (nailing it at each end) to pull the hogskin into the hollow along the edge between the flap and the pad; let them thus dry. On removal from the block, cut the hogskin close to the edge of the flap and stitch the hogskin on firmly all round, and finish neatly, levelling the edges with sandpaper before polishing.

When the seat is dry the skirts must be stitched to it, the hogskin cover of the skirt being 1/8 in. larger than the skirt along the top for stitching to the seat. Shave the edge of the hogskin to be stitched slightly, and, without removing the seat, place the skirt on the side of the saddle exactly in the position it should occupy when finished. It is better to arrange both skirts at the same time, employing tacks to keep them in place. Mark a line along the seat on the edge of the skirt, and also mark the various positions of the several parts of the skirt on the seat, so that if the former happens to stretch a little when being stitched, it can be pulled to place during work. Dots may be made with pen and ink in such a manner as not to be visible when the seat and skirt are stitched.

Before removing the seat from the tree, run a sharp knife along the mark from end to end of the skirt. Take enough dogskin welt to reach from end to end of the upper edge of the skirt and about 1 in. beyond; whip it to the edge of the skirt from end to end, employing single linen thread for the purpose, and making the stitches quite regular, so that when the seat is put in, the stitches can be run through the same holes. The welt must only just show when the leathers on either side are joined.

Having damped the edges a little, back-stitch the seat to the skirt, using a pointed needle and thimble, and employing the holes by which the welt was whipped; take care that the marks on the seat and skirt are exactly opposite. The pieces used in nailing the skirt and seat to the tree must be separate by 4 in. from the narrow part, and when these parts are being stitched together along this distance a piece of the hogskin seat should be stitched on with the skirt and seat; bring it back from the point of the skirt to catch the stitches in such a manner that the point will run out between two leathers, the seat being on one side and this piece brought back on the other.

Fig. 4.—Saddle Flap.

Two pleats must be cut behind the cantle and stitched with a pointed needle from underneath, the stitches being run half through the leather on both sides so as not to be visible on the outside. The points of the tree projecting beyond the saddle bars must be covered with thin basil or hogskin; damp and paste it down from the front round the sides of the point to within 1 in. of the bottom and a little above the saddle bar.

Now adjust the seat and skirts, previously damping the seat all over; be careful that it does not get stained whilst damp by contact with iron. Nail the front over the gullet underneath the tree, making the skirts perfectly level like the seat; nail it behind close by the edge of the iron plate under the tree, and slit it to go through the crupper staple. Small pincers may be employed to pull it.

The sides can now be fastened, a nail being driven alternately into each so that the seat will be quite square and straight. Cut a slit in the leather just nailed down, opposite the pieces of straining web left hanging, preserving the same width of leather as that of the web. Pull the leather tight with pincers and drive a row of nails through both into the tree. Trim off the surplus web and the waste round the seat close to the nails.

To adjust the flaps (Fig. 4), cut a nick upwards in front of each, a little wider than the point at this particular place, so as to run above it. The other portion passes under the tree behind the saddle bar, the next cut being above the hanging web. The end of this should be cut half-round, the farther portion being put round under the tree and nailed close to the skirt. Thus when the pad is fixed it will fit neatly to the corner of the skirt. Then run two or three stitches through the web piece and the piece above.

Now drive a tough silver nail through the top of the knee-pad at the point and clinch it underneath; drive another in the fore part of the other flap, and one behind on each side, just below the centre of the seat pad; drive the nail slanting through the tree and clinch it.

The next part needed is a gullet piece to run all round the front of the gullet and from the point of one flap to the point of the other. To make it, cut a piece of brown leather of the required length by 1 in. wide, and a piece of hogskin slightly wider. Stitch the hogskin on the other piece along the edge at the same distance from the edges as the stitches on the flaps, and finish neatly. Then damp the hogskin and push in a piece of cord, pasting the hogskin down afterwards; put the cord close to the stitches from end to end and press the hogskin flat on the bottom leather inside the cord.

After punching a hole about 1 1/4 in. below where the seat and skirt join, slit the hole on the inner side and nail it down along the gullet underneath, sufficiently close to the tree for the cord to come tightly against the edge of the tree. Be careful that the slit is at equal distances from the centre on both sides; then raise the other parts below the slits on both sides above the tree to meet the ends of the flaps, making them meet the latter closely. Drive two or three nails into the flap, and make sure that the entire front of the piece runs in a level line with the edges on both sides of the flaps; then join the gullet piece and flap by a stitch below out of sight.

Another method of joining them is to stitch the gullet piece to the end of the flaps by means of a hogskin reaching beyond each end of the gullet piece; then stitch these together before adjusting the flaps.

Take two silver saddle staples and put one leg through the point of the flap and the other through the gullet piece and the tree; knock them down to their necks and clinch them below. When there is no metal name plate, cut a piece of hogskin oval, and, having thinned its edges, paste it close to the staple over the nails in the gullet piece and its joint with the flaps. The breast plate is fastened to these staples and in some cases to coat straps.

Having cut six stout girth straps 1 in. by 1 ft. 3 in., shave one end and slant the other into a fine point; then edge and rub them. Crease them double on the flesh side and turn up the end of the web and leather hanging over the side until it is 3 in. long from the tree. Next stitch two straps on each side and nail the other straps, one on each side close to the first two; then make holes all along them. Then, in front of the skirt on each side at the point of the row of stitching, along the top, drive one tough nail and clinch it under the tree.

Two pear-shaped underskirts must next be cut and placed on each side under the straps; they should reach from the tree to a little more than halfway down the straps. Crease the underskirt with the hot creaser, and nail them under the tree, right under the girth straps. After cutting a piece of thin hogskin about 1/4 in. wide, drive a nail in it close to the crupper loop and wrap it round the last from end to end; then fasten it on the other side with a nail. The flaps, close to their ends, are fastened to the tree by a leather chape put through and secured with fine tacks.

Some harness makers put silver dees under the saddle, nailing them with a chape just to show between the saddle tree and panel.

CHAPTER II.

PANEL FOR GENTLEMAN’S SADDLE.

THE saddle as made in the previous chapter is now complete with the exception of a panel (Fig. 5), and that is made as follows: Cut a good basil to the shape of the saddle underneath, and make it in two parts, joined along the middle. Drive a nail exactly in its centre at the front and back, and place the side of the saddle with the basil under it on the work bench in front. Now with the seat awl mark the basil all round the edges of the saddle, making it flush with the front and reaching at the back to the crupper loop, so as to cover the nails in the seat; it must also be flush with the side of the skirt as far as the flap; cut it to the same shape, but about 2 1/2 in. shorter in the bottom only.

Cut a straight line from centre to centre at the front and back, and cut along the marks all round. About 2 in. from the centre, make a straight cut downwards for 1 1/2 in. exactly, and from the end of this draw another straight line to the back, ending about 1 in. from the extreme point. Cut along that line and make one or two stitches at both ends to join the two sides of the panel. There will