The Mary Brooks Picken Method of Modern Dressmaking

Modern Methods Make Dressmaking Easy

FOR many years I have been teaching women to sew. As a very young girl I began making my own clothes, and I found such sheer delight in fashioning lovely things to wear that it seemed to me that every girl and every woman should want to make her own dresses, her wraps—all those garments that are, after all, the truest outward expression of herself. For do we not express ourselves through the clothes we wear as much as through what we say and what we do? In a becoming gown one can sit quite still or walk gracefully about and express charm without the utterance of a word.

And so I say it always has seemed to me that every woman should want to make the clothes that are to speak for her. Then, too, sewing is such a joy to do. Light, lustrous fabrics are an inspiration to handle. Beautiful colors hold the very tints and tones of life. Stitches and seams are not mere mechanical means to garment construction; they are the most fascinating steps in the creation of a lovely costume. And the adeptly fitted sleeve, the jaunty flare of a skirt, the delicate touch of embroidery or decoration—all are expressive of creative art.

And of all the arts this is most truly the art that belongs to woman. Many women seem to have a knack for sewing from childhood. They never seem to need to learn. Yet I am perfectly certain that this apparent natural faculty is theirs not because they were born with it, but because in their earliest years they were encouraged to sew by some loving, interested mother or grandmother or sister or friend. They never acquired a fear that sewing was difficult. They knew from the very beginning that it was not.

When even as a girl I began showing others how to make the stitches and seams that were so easy for me, and when later I taught them how to plan and cut out and put together and finish dresses, I realized that this was the one great obstacle that was keeping actually millions of women from making their own clothes. They thought dressmaking was something very intricate, tedious, and complicated, something they could never, never learn to do.

And so I would begin by taking the making of a dress and separating it, as it were, into all its parts. I would show them how to make a stitch and they would see how very simple that was. Then I would show them how to make a certain kind of seam, and they would see how easy that was, too. Then I would show them how to shape a collar or turn a hem or set in a sleeve or make a pocket, and soon nimble fingers would be doing each task and there would be a glow of pride with each new accomplishment.

And finally when all these essentials, one by one, were shown to be quite simple, after all, some one would say, Yes, but dressmaking must be something very difficult to learn, and I would say, There is nothing left to learn. You have taken it one small part at a time, just as in making a dress you must of course do one small part at a time. Step back and look at all the simple things you have done—put all the parts together—that is dressmaking. Is it not simple, and easy and really fun? And suddenly it would dawn upon them that there is nothing to fear, nothing to daunt one in the making of a lovely dress if you just look at it as so many simple steps to be taken one by one.

All my life, in teaching others, I have wanted to put just this simple story of dressmaking into a book, so that for new legions of women and girls the needless fears might be swept away and this delightful art be for them a happy accomplishment. In this book I have done just this.

As you turn its pages you will find sewing of every kind made clear and simple through word and pictures. No matter what you may wish to make, whether a drapery for a window, or a dainty bit of lingerie, or a child’s frock, or a smart gown for yourself, the making of it will be a succession of simple steps, and every one of those steps is presented for you in the pages that follow. They are so arranged that you can refer to any section, any page at any time, and safely, surely follow the illustrations and directions given.

From beginning to end I have prepared this book with simplicity of method always the first consideration. And now, complete, it comes to you at a time when every facility makes dressmaking easier, more fascinating than it has been in the past. For new inventions and modern methods have conspired to help you have lovely clothes quickly and in abundance.

First of all, there are the new printed patterns enabling you to express the current mode in a garment for your particular type—patterns with such detailed instructions for their use that you can undertake the design of your choice with assurance of success.

Second, there are materials so lovely that they tempt you to new adventures in planning and making. Each season the looms seem to find inspiration for new fabrics more beautiful than any that have gone before. And with them come new laces, new trimmings in increasing variety for that last distinctive touch.

Third, there is the modern sewing machine, a marvel of efficiency. Quietly, smoothly, swiftly its flowing seams give form to the dress of your dreams.

And fourth, there are the fashion magazines and quarterlies, bringing you each month, each season, a forecast of correct attire and presenting myriad designs from which you may choose frocks that best express the mode for you.

Are we not fortunate that all have joined to stimulate and serve our womanly art, to make even more delightful the pleasure of creating clothes, to give us even greater joy in the pride of wearing them?

It is my hope that, through the method of modern dressmaking which this book presents, those who have made their own clothes may find simpler ways to accomplishment, and that those who up to now have hesitated at the undertaking, may find a new road to happiness.

Threads, Needles, Sewing Tools

GOOD tools in sewing are real time and patience savers.

Two pairs of scissors should be provided—one for the sewing machine to clip threads and trim seams, the other for the work basket.

A pair of 7- or 8-inch shears of excellent quality are necessary for cutting. They should last a lifetime, so do not economize on the original purchase. Have a cheap pair in the house to cut paper, string, and coarse fabrics, and keep the good shears only for cutting out garments. Remember that even excellent quality shears need a new edge every now and then. Almost any hardware store can have them sharpened for you at very small cost.

Use a thimble that fits you—one that is not too heavy. Many prefer celluloid or aluminum, as they do not stain the finger.

Needles that are right for the fabric, weight of thread, and purpose, should be at hand. When strength in a seam or button is needed, use heavy thread and a coarse needle. When daintiness is desired, use very fine thread and a fine needle.

Consult the table given below when in doubt as to just what weight of thread or size of needle to use.

Use Dressmakers’ Pins

Dressmakers’ pins are short, thin, and very sharp. Number 5 pins, that can be purchased in 1/4-pound boxes, are usually best. Coarse, dull-pointed pins mar fabrics unnecessarily and should not be used in sewing work. Pins should be used generously. They save time in basting and make for accurate work.

Tape measures are necessary for measuring; yard sticks for marking for hems; emery bags to keep needles polished and in condition; a cake of French chalk or magnesia to dust on clean hands; a tracing wheel with sharp points for marking; a stiletto for shaping corners and for eyelets; tailors’ chalk and pencils; a small ruler for measuring widths for hems, tucks, plaits, etc. These round out a sewing-basket.

Time-Saving Notions

The notion department of a well equipped department store is a veritable joy. A dollar or two spent there each sewing season saves both time and money. You will find many conveniences that have been devised by manufacturers to make sewing easier for you—bindings, tape, weighted tape, elastic, cording, braids, edge finishes, and trimmings. In fact, all manner of sewing accessories are available, from needles fine enough for threading beads to foundations for muffs and ruffles for petticoats.

Buy from the notion counter, in one shopping tour if possible, a supply of hooks and eyes and snap fasteners in assorted sizes, elastic, darning cotton, pins, needles, tape, seam binding, bias bindings, edgings, dress shields—things you will surely need when you start to sew. If they are at hand, work can progress rapidly and much time and annoyance will be saved for you. If you sew for children, buy hook and eye tape for cloth dresses, buttonhole bands ready to sew inside little boys’ trousers, and edges made ready to apply that will give smart trimming effects in a minimum of time.

TABLE

Thread and Needles Suitable for Various Materials

For Hand Sewing

For Machine Sewing

Using Your Sewing Machine

OF course you have a sewing machine. If it is one you have had for some time, make sure that it is put in the best possible condition. If it is a new one, give it the care and attention that will keep it in perfect order. If, by any chance, you are thinking of buying a new machine, choose one of the best quality. Such a machine should last a lifetime and even though it may cost a little more in the beginning, it will prove the best possible investment in the end.

The modern sewing machine, with its ingenious attachments, has made sewing a joy. Of course if you have electricity in your home and can have an electric machine or an electric motor for your treadle machine, it will make your machine work easier, but even the modern treadle machine runs so smoothly that a minimum of effort is required.

First and most important in the use of your sewing machine is this: Study your instruction book. Every reliable manufacturer provides one with each machine. If you have mislaid yours, get another from your local agent. Study this book until you feel that you understand your machine perfectly. Once you know what it will do for you, and how to use it to get the best results, your sewing will be a pleasure and your machine will be both a servant and a friend.

Nearly every good local machine agency has a special instructor who will help you without charge with any special use of your machine. She will show you how to use the attachments, how to make adjustments, and how to keep your machine in perfect running condition.

It is not intended here to give complete instructions for the care of your machine, because your special instruction book provides that. The following suggestions, however, will help you to locate and correct quickly minor difficulties that may develop in your machine sewing:

If the Needle Thread Breaks,

the trouble may be caused by:

1. Improper threading. (Always pull both bobbin and top thread back out of the way when you start to sew.)

2. Tight tensions.

3. Thread too fine or too coarse for needle.

4. Needle blunt, bent, or set incorrectly.

5. Presser foot not properly adjusted. (In beginning to sew, always have material correctly placed under the presser foot.)

6. Glazed or poor quality thread.

If the Machine Skips Stitches,

the trouble may be caused by:

1. Needle improperly set into needle bar.

2. Needle too long or too short.

3. Needle blunt or bent.

4. Needle too fine for thread.

5. Dust, lint, or threads clogging the working parts.

If the Stitching Puckers the Material,

the cause of the trouble may be:

1. Tight tensions.

2. Blunt needle.

3. Too much or too little pressure on presser foot.

If the Bobbin or Shuttle Thread Breaks,

the trouble may be caused by:

1. Incorrect threading of bobbin case.

2. Tight lower tension.

3. Bobbin wound too tight or irregularly.

4. Bobbin wound too full.

To Avoid Breaking Needles:

1. Use needle of correct size.

2. Use a good quality needle that is right for the machine.

3. See that the presser foot or attachments are securely fastened.

4. Use a heavy needle when sewing with heavy thread on thick seams, or heavy material.

5. Let the feed carry the work along without your pushing it.

Avoid Injuring the Machine by:

Not running the machine with the presser foot down when there is no cloth under the presser foot.

If the Machine Works Heavily,

the trouble may be caused by:

1. Dust, lint, or threads clogging the working parts.

2. Lack of oil.

3. Thread ends caught in the shuttle or bobbin case.

For beautiful sewing machine work:

Be certain that the same kind and size of thread is used in both bobbin and needle. Test your threads by pulling the tension and bobbin threads together. If their tensions are in harmony, the pull on each thread will be the same. A little testing by pulling will reveal which one is tight or loose and which to adjust.

Be sure that the needle is the right size for the thread. If you are in doubt, consult the instruction book that comes with your machine.

Make certain that the needle thread and length of stitch are suited to the material and purpose.

See that the machine is perfectly clean.

Work to have the tension, the stitch, the thread, all in accord so that the seam may flow out from the machine without restraint, straight and perfect in every stitch.

In teaching any one to stitch straight with the machine, mark pieces of paper with straight lines, squares, and triangles for practice work. Take the thread out of the needle and the bobbin out of the machine, and instruct the pupil to practice stitching on the marked lines, turning corners accurately, and keeping even spaces. This will soon train the eye and accurate work will result.

FIG. 1

Always take correct position at the sewing machine—your eyes straight in line with the presser foot. If your position is correct, you will be able to stitch more accurately and with less fatigue.

Never bend over, nor pull the work from the machine as you sew. The machine feeds according to its capacity, and perfect stitching is not possible on a pulled seam.

FIG. 2

Examine your seam when you start to stitch to make sure that stitch, thread, and tension are correct. A little precautionary care will keep your work attractive and save you disappointments.

Beautiful stitching is essential with lovely fabrics and modish patterns. Keep the stitch perfect, the stitching line straight throughout the making of the garment.

How to Handle Fabrics Successfully

FABRIC has a definite responsibility in expressing correctly the lines of a garment; the weight, the texture, the color, all having a part in determining the beauty of the finished product.

Lines that conform to the silhouette of one’s figure are suggested for heavy, closely woven fabrics because their weight will not permit them to be made in either full or pretentious styles. It is necessary to press them firm and flat to bring out their real beauty. The weight of the fabric usually makes quantity undesirable.

Just as garments of taffeta and other similar fabrics should be as fluffy and feminine as it is possible to make them, so should tailoring materials be made into tailored gowns or suits that are as subtle in line as prevailing styles will permit.

In using stiff fabrics that more or less stand out from the figure, pay attention to the color. Brilliant, hard colors should be avoided to get the best results. The softer the tone, the softer will appear the garment when worn.

On the other hand, brighter colors may be used in crêpes, soft velvets, and satins, as these materials have