Legendary Locals of Arlington

INTRODUCTION

Arlington has a rich history, from the time when Native Americans lived along the Alewife Brook and the Mystic River to its role in the American Revolution to the current day, when it has become a desirable place to live thanks to its good schools, parks, and proximity to Boston. It is a lively and energetic community, with residents who are passionate about causes and politics and quickly pitch in to help someone in need.

In some ways, it is still a small town, with residents fiercely attached to their neighborhoods. People enjoy sledding at Robbins Farm and fishing and skating at Spy Pond or Menotomy Rocks. Yet Arlington offers the sophistication of a small city, with music, dance, and drama as well as a variety of restaurants featuring not only pizza but food from India, Thailand, Mexico, and Korea.

The town has had several incarnations. In the 19th century, it was a bustling center of industry when ice from Spy Pond was packed and shipped in sawdust to the Caribbean. At one time, there were as many as 60 farms in town growing lettuce, cabbages, cucumbers, and beets, with celery as a major crop. The Mill Brook provided water power for industries.

While Massachusetts Avenue, which bisects Arlington, unites the town, there are distinct neighborhoods with their own characteristics. The multifamily homes in East Arlington, with its ease of transportation to the MBTA subway, give way to single-family homes in the heights and a more suburban feel adjacent to Winchester.

Massachusetts Avenue is a valley with hills on either side. The hills make for great sledding, with Robbins Farm offering steep rides for daredevils. Those who simply want to watch sledding can enjoy the panoramic view of Boston. On the Fourth of July, residents spread blankets on the hillside to see the fireworks from Boston’s Esplanade.

The town has had three names, with the first one dating back to the time of Native Americans. The Native American word for swift running water is Menotomy, the town’s first name. Menotomy was founded in 1635, and the town’s running water enticed Capt. George Cooke to build a mill. Farmers came from miles away to grind their grain. Initially, Menotomy was part of Cambridge, or more specifically, part of the Church of Cambridge. The church played a major role in civic life and had authority over almost all matters except those of a military nature. In 1725, the residents of Menotomy petitioned the church, seeking their own congregation. Their request was denied, as were their next attempts in 1728 and in June 1732. Later that year, Cambridge relented and granted Menotomy permission to build its own church and become the second precinct (parish) of Cambridge.

Farmers from the west and northwest passing through Menotomy on their way to Cambridge, Boston, and Charlestown needed a place to stop and enjoy refreshments. They soon had their choice: the Black Horse Tavern, at what is now 333 Massachusetts Avenue; Cooper Tavern, at Massachusetts Avenue and Medford Street; and Tufts Tavern on Prentiss Street. Here was where local militia met to plan their upcoming battles with the British soldiers. Legend has it that the three stars on the Menotomy Minutemen’s banner represents these three taverns.

History unfolded in the center of town on April 19, 1776. Though Ralph Waldo Emerson credits Concord with the shot heard round the world, the bloodiest battle of the day occurred right on Massachusetts Avenue in Arlington. By any criteria, including fierceness of battle and number of men killed or injured, no other place on the British retreat was more significant. On that day, as the British marched back to Boston, a running battle took place. The British rushed the Jason Russell House, killing 11 people. Among the dead was Russell himself. The house now operates as a museum, and bullet holes from that day are still visible.

In 1807, after 65 years and two failed attempts, the general court allowed Menotomy, with a population of about 900, to become a separate town called West Cambridge. By 1840, the population was almost 1,400, and Arlington was starting to take on the flavor of a suburb, with wealthy merchants living in town and working in Boston.

On May 27, 1867, town officials voted to change the name of West Cambridge to Arlington to honor the dead in Arlington National Cemetery. The town celebrated with a brass band, 100-gun salute, and ringing of church bells. A larger celebration followed in June with a regatta, banquet, parades, and a grand procession of dignitaries from across the state.

Today, the town is a mix of families, graduate students, academics, and people simply attracted by the rich resources Arlington has to offer. Citizen activists have maintained a forward-looking community, with a strong network of support for town resources. They have founded groups to support arts programs, the schools, parks, and the libraries. And their concern and care extends to its citizens. When an illness or other misfortune strikes, Arlington residents are there to help.

Many of its citizens have bravely served their country, among them Francis M. Donnelly, who won a Purple Heart, and the Carroll family, seven of whom were in the armed forces. Eugene McGurl and Howard Sessler were among the 80 Doolittle Raiders who bombed Japan in World War II. Seventy-three years later, Arlington resident Chris Costello was chosen to design the congressional medal honoring the dangerous raid.

Two institutions reflect the energy and involvement of its citizens. Town meeting is the foundation of Arlington’s government, where representatives from 21 precincts animatedly debate issues ranging from budgets to bicycles. The List, as the Arlington e-mail list is known, was started in 1998 by Betsy Schwartz when she passed around a sign-up sheet at a local park. Today there are more than 6,000 members engaging in lively discussions ranging from politics, restaurants, and schools to questions about home repair. It has been managed since 2007 by Richard Damon.

Old Schwamb Mill

The Old Schwamb Mill is where for more than 300 years entrepreneurs have harnessed the water power of the Mill Brook. It is now also a museum where visitors can see how hand-turned oval frames are made on a 19th-century lathe. (Courtesy of the Old Schwamb Mill.)

CHAPTER ONE

Community Service

There are many people who say someone has got to do something; the people in this chapter have decided that they are that someone.

In this chapter, one will learn about people who have reached out to those in need. They visit the sick, support victims of domestic violence, and make sure that children do not come to school hungry. Some have dedicated their lives to guiding Arlington youth or making sure elders are well cared for. These are the people who not only invest their time, they open their hearts in order to ease the burdens of others.

Included in this section are people whose dedication and persistence helped preserve Arlington’s historic places. They raised or donated money, established museums, wrote books, gave lectures, and provided tours.

Arlington is an old town. It is fully developed, with little open space. Close to Boston, public transportation, and Route 2, it is an obvious choice of developers who want to build on the few open areas or raze homes and replace them with new construction. One will come to know a woman who, over four decades, has fought tirelessly to protect open spaces and a husband-and-wife team who has advocated at all levels of government to protect historic buildings.

The chapter describes a farmer who, despite the wishes of his wife and the appeal of money from developers, donated his lands for a playground and the people who have volunteered to maintain and enhance this park.

Discussing, debating, and deciding are never easy tasks. They are especially burdensome when 252 people come together in town meeting to make important decisions for the town in which they live. Yet every year, 252 people participate in the messy and frustrating task of making democracy work.

In 1910, Ida Robbins wrote to a young friend upon her graduation: Be good and be good for something—the world has great need for positive goodness. Certainly these words are just as true today as they were then.

Capt. Samuel Whittemore (1694–1793)

On April 19, 1776, as the British retreated down Massachusetts Avenue from Lexington, 80-year-old Whittemore hid behind a stone wall. Armed with a gun and a pistol, he killed three Redcoats. Enemy troops shot him in the face, bayonetted him multiple times, and left him for dead. He lived for 18 more years and (as some have claimed) was able to see his 185 progeny live free of British rule. (Photograph by Barbara C. Goodman.)

Jason Russell (1716–1775)

The bloodiest battle of the first day of the American Revolution took place at Jason Russell’s house.