Let's Go Budget Istanbul: The Student Travel Guide

Contents

Discover Istanbul

Planning Your Trip

Maps

Accommodations

Sights

Food

Nightlife

Arts and Culture

Shopping

Excursions

Essentials

Istanbul 101

Beyond Tourism

Index

Copyright Page

Quick Reference

Discover Istanbul

Budget Istanbul

ACCOMMODATION ORIENT-ATION

FREEBIES

CHEAP EATS

SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP

What To Do

MOSQUERCISE

DONER PARTY

PARTY LIKE A SULTAN

BEYOND TOURISM

STUDENT SUPERLATIVES

All other cities are doomed, but I imagine that as long as people exist, Constantinople will exist. - Petrus Gyllius

Istanbul is a city like no other. Compasses here point east and west at the same time. The only city in the world to straddle two continents, Istanbul is the crossroads of all crossroads. This seriously ancient city has survived for more than 2500 years, during which time it has served as the capital of three empires, been called by at least four names, and been fought over by Greeks and Romans, barbarian tribes and Crusaders, and Byzantines and Ottomans.

The past and the present bump and grind here like they were revelers at one of Beşiktaş’s nightclubs. Lean minarets pierce the sky alongside glittering modern skyscrapers, bearded old men nurse nargiles on street corners, and fanny-packed tourists pay 10 times too much for carpets. Istanbul is a hectic, crazy mix of cultures, styles, smells, and lifestyles, and it can be a challenge for the uninitiated. Luckily, you’ve got us to help you navigate the maze of the Grand Bazaar, find your way onto the right Bosphorus ferry, and choose the best hostel in Beyoğlu. Whether you’re heading to Istanbul to take in the history, study the culture, or enjoy the hedonism, you’re in store for one wild magic-carpet ride. Just remember: if you’ve got a date in Constantinople, they’ll be waiting in Istanbul.

Budget Istanbul

ACCOMMODATION ORIENT-ATION

There are as many hostels and hotels catering to the budget traveler in Istanbul as there are rooms in the Topkapi Palace. Here we help you navigate the slew with a guide to the five best budget accommodations in the city.

METROPOLIS HOSTEL: Hands down the best budget option in hostel-heavy Sultanahmet.

RAPUNZEL GUESTHOUSE: Let down your hair at this charming hostel centrally located under the Galata Tower in Beyoglu.

NEVERLAND HOSTEL: A highly alternative hostel that wouldn’t be a bit out of place in Let’s Go Amsterdam.

HOTEL ERENLER: Stay in your own single for the price of two kebabs. ‘Nuff said.

HUSH HOSTEL LOUNGE: It may be far from most of the sights and nightlife, but who could say no to a hostel with the word lounge in its name?

Freebies

CHEAP EATS

The proliferation of kebab stands and other street food makes Istanbul an easy and delicious place to eat on the cheap.

HOCAPAŞA PIDECISI: Become a pide (pita) aficionado at the best cheap eat in touristy Sultanahmet.

YEDI-SEKIZ HASANPAŞA FIRINI: This Beşiktaş bakery is sure to keep your sweet tooth satisfied without breaking the bank.

FINDIK KABUĞUNDA KÖFTE: Vegetarians will rejoice at the deliciously affordable mezze sampler platter.

YENI YILDIZ: This tourist-friendly eatery serves up some of the best and best-priced pide and kebab in Sultanahmet.

MANGAL KEYFI: Fill up on dürüms at this unpretentious local favorite.

SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP

While you’re distracted by all the glittering domes and hordes of tourists, you might not notice how much you’re spending to see everything. Relax, we’ve got your back.

BAZAARS: Not only are they a sight unto themselves, but if you’re good at bargaining, you can pick up some real steals.

GET AN AKBIL: Pick up an Akbil (electronic travel pass) in Taksim Sq. It saves you 10% on all bus, tram, metro, and ferry rides. Even better, if you use it again within 2hr., you get 50% off the next ride.

MOSQUES: Most of Istanbul’s renowned mosques don’t charge tourists any entrance fee.

BRING A STUDENT ID: Many sights and museums offers student discounts.

THE ISTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART: This excellent museum offers free admission every Thursday.

What To Do

MOSQUERCISE

With 2500 to choose from, it can be easy to get mosqued-out in this city, but don’t consider your visit to Istanbul complete until you’ve gawked at these four. First and foremost is the Hagia Sophia—by all accounts one of the world’s most famous buildings. It was built as a cathedral, but was converted after the Ottoman conquest and went on to serve as the architectural model for thousands of mosques across the empire. One of the most spectacular of these imitators is the Süleymaniye Mosque. Built by the master architect Sinan, this is the archetypal Ottoman mosque. Sultanahmet Mosque, nicknamed the Blue Mosque after the blue Iznik tiles that decorate its interior, is a 17th-century masterpiece that stands rather unnecessarily close to the Hagia Sophia. To see the best surviving example of Byzantine church architecture, head to the Fenari Isa Mosque, which consists of two old Orthodox churches combined to form a mosque.

DONER PARTY

When in Istanbul, don’t miss the opportunity to sample the full range of Turkish cuisine, from the simple and ubiquitous doner (lamb kebab) to the sweet opulence of Ottoman desserts. Start your day off right with some menemen, a Turkish take on scrambled eggs, at Lades Restaurant. For lunch, stuff your pide with doner at perennial favorite Fatih Karadeniz Pidecisik. After a hard day’s sightseeing, fill up on kuru fasülye (slightly spicy, flavor-filled stewed beans) at Ali Baba Lokantasi outside the Süleymaniye Mosque. Finally, try out the kup griye, a famous foodgasm of vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, almonds, and pistachios at Baylan Pastanesi in Asian Istanbul.

PARTY LIKE A SULTAN

Istanbul might be a touch more conservative than you’re used to, but you can still have a great time after sunset. Roam the four stories, which include an art gallery, of Karga, an alternative haven in Asian Istanbul. Peyote, between its dance floor, beer terrace, and varied live performances, has something for everyone. If you’re ready to class it up, head to Anjelique in swanky Beşiktaş. Or get a taste of nargile culture by puffing the night away at Asmali Sohbet Çay Evi in alcohol-free Western Fatih.

BEYOND TOURISM

Ready to take a break from drinking raki and counting minarets? Get more involved in Turkish culture by studying, working, or volunteering. Cultivate healthier foods by working on an organic farm with Ekolojik Tatuta, drive the new Mercedes that you’re working on (well, probably not) by interning at Mercedes-Benz Turk, or cruise the Bosphorus Strait as part of a summerlong cultural experience with Özyeğin University.

Student Superlatives

Planning Your Trip

WHEN TO GO

NEIGHBORHOODS

Sultanahmet and Environs

Western Fatih

Fener and Balat

Beyoğlu

Beşiktaş and Ortaköy

Asian Istanbul

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

The Transcontinental

Cheap Date

Three-Day Weekend in Istanbul

Istanbul would be nothing without its waters. Acting as barriers, shipping lanes, and passages, they’ve come to define the city. The Bosphorus links the Sea of Marmara in the south to the Black Sea in the north, marking the border between Europe and Asia. Meanwhile, the Golden Horn (Haliç) divides the European side into north and south. Istanbul is a single city, but its components are vibrant and distinct. European Istanbul, which features most of the historic and cultural sights, is the better-looking half (sorry Asia!), although that also means it’s crammed with tourists (and those trying to make money off of them). Walk around Sultanahmet for the most famous sights, but cross over to Beyoglu to find the soul of modern Istanbul. Heading north on the European side, you’ll find bustling Beşiktaş and opulent Ortaköy, where Istanbul’s glitterati spend and party. On the Asian side, the mostly residential Üsküdar is bordered in the south by Kadiköy, the unofficial center of this half, while farther south, the quiet and comfortable life of Moda might tempt you to move there. With all these neighborhoods stretched between two continents, you’ll have a lot to take in. Thankfully, between the city’s buses, trains, and trams, you’ll never find yourself far from Istanbul’s cheap, convenient public transportation network, and the city’s ferry service is the cheapest intercontinental cruise you’ll ever take.

Icons

WHEN TO GO

Most tourists visit Turkey in the high season of July and August, but this is actually one of the least pleasant times of year, as it can be blisteringly hot. The best time to visit is spring or early fall, when the weather is temperate, the crowds thin, and the prices go down. The rainy season runs from November to February, so remember to bring appropriate gear if traveling during these months.

During Ramadan (July 20-August 18, 2012), life is drastically altered in the city. Mosques, museums, and parks get unusually full, some restaurants may be closed, and opening hours can be completely different from in the rest of the year. On the other hand, visiting during this holy month can provide a fascinating window into Turkish culture, and the Hippodrome turns into a street fair, full of vendors and performers.

NEIGHBORHOODS

Sultanahmet and Environs

Home to the Hagia Sophia and the other crown jewels of historical Istanbul, Sultanahmet is the first stop for anyone who wants to explore the city. Sultanahmet proper is the area teeming with tourists around the Blue Mosque, where many budget accommodations and historical sights can be found. To the north are the Sirkeci and Eminönü neighborhoods, known for the Spice Bazaar, bustling streets, and gorgeous mosques. The Galata Bridge above Eminönü connects the historic peninsula with Karaköy, across the Golden Horn. You’ll find ferry terminals and tram stops on both sides of the bridge. The eastern tip of the peninsula is occupied by Topkapi Palace and Gülhane Park. To the west of Sultanahmet are Çemberlitaş and Beyazit Square, the location of some nice tea houses and cheap restaurants. The tram conveniently connects all of these neighborhoods, though it’s also possible to walk. Shopaholics and hardcore hagglers can spend hours in the Grand Bazaar, a maze-like warren above Beyazit. Below Beyazit is the Kumkapi neighborhood, renowned (or infamous) for its overpriced fish restaurants. Come to Sultanahmet for the fabled sights and the full tourist experience, but look elsewhere for a more authentic (and cheaper) vision of the city.

Calling Istanbul?

Western Fatih

You will hear two different Fatihs talked about in Istanbul. The municipality of Fatih covers the entire historical peninsula and includes Sultanahmet, Beyazit, and all the nearby neighborhoods. Fatih proper, on the other hand, is a small neighborhood around Fatih Mosque where government officials dwell and fun goes to die. It’s more conservative than other neighborhoods, which can be a refreshing change from İstiklal Caddesi. One of the liveliest roads here is Fevzi Paşa Caddesi, which runs northwest from Fatih Itfaiye Park. If you follow the Valens Aqueduct from its southern end, you’ll find the Siirt Bazaar, a square with plenty of small restaurants. A marginally classier cluster of restaurants can be found on Atpazari, a square just a few blocks east of the mosque, but almost no establishment in Fatih serves alcohol. To the north of the Fatih Mosque is Çarşamba, which makes Fatih look like a hippie commune.

Fener and Balat

Fener and Balat used to be home to the Greek, Jewish, and Armenian minorities of Istanbul, but today they are populated mostly by poor Muslim migrants. It’s a very dilapidated area, but it doesn’t feel unsafe. Housewives chat across windows and children play while old men sip tea and comb their beards in the streets. Of course, be vigilant, even if tourist traps don’t lurk behind every corner here (we’re looking at you, Sultanahmet). This is one of the most conservative parts of Istanbul, so you’ll never see the words nightlife and Fener and Balat in the same sentence—except when the sentence is, The neighborhoods of Fener and Balat have no nightlife.

The fastest way to get here is by bus, but the prettiest is by ferry from Eminönü. Since the street plan is rather confusing, bring a good map and use landmarks to navigate the area. Public transportation sticks mainly to the periphery, so get ready for a rigorous walk. Vodina Caddesi runs parallel to the shore between Fener and Balat and is packed with local stores. The impressive red-brick Phanar Greek Orthodox College (Özel Fener Rum Lisesi) can be found some 300m inland from the Fener ferry jetty. The Edirnekapi neighborhood is a 15min. walk inland, close to the city walls, and home to the mosaic-filled Chora Church. You can find Eyüp Sultan Mosque and the Pierre Loti Cafe in Eyüp, a few kilometers north of Balat.

Beyoğlu

Beyoğlu is the beating heart of modern Istanbul, brimming with galleries, restaurants, bars, and clubs. Many of these establishments are located off Istiklal Caddesi, a throbbing promenade that connects the transportation hub of Taksim Square in the north with Tünel Square in the south. You’ll find brand