Captivating Limoges
By Kim Layton
()
About this ebook
Limoges is a lovely city in central France that you have probably never even heard of. Or if you have heard of it, it is probably because of its fine china, porcelain and other fire arts that are world famous.
Mostly though, it has been bypassed and it can still be enjoyed without masses of tourists crowding the streets. And there is so much more to Limoges than just porcelain.
This elegant capital city of the ancient Limousin region can trace its history back over 2,000 years. Whilst remaining proud of its heritage, Limoges is now a bustling modern city with many attractions for today's visitors. It is small and compact, so most of it is accessible on foot.
Captivating Limoges is a discovery guide book that includes:
- A brief history of the city's dramatic and often turbulent past
- Two in-depth tours with detailed maps so that you can choose your own itinerary without missing any of the sights
- A riverside walk in the city
- Transport options for getting around
- Details of all the major events and exhibition venues
- Opening times and information about the many attractions
- Days out around Limoges
- Activities for all ages and all sorts of interests
- Entertainment and nightlife
- Discounts: all your options for reduced and free tickets, meals and accommodation
- Eating out: the best restaurants, atmospheric dining squares and streets
- Hotels, guest houses, rentals and campsites
- Getting here by ferry, plane, train and bus
Limoges is one of the hundreds of delightful cities, towns and villages that are often overlooked in the dash to visit Paris, the French Riviera, Provence or one of the other handful of destinations that attract the majority of tourists. Yet, it is the small cities that are consistently voted for by the French as the best places to live, based on their cultural offerings, the attractiveness of the environment and the wide choice of activities. And the most attractive places to live in France are often the most enchanting places to visit.
Are you an untouristy traveller? Someone who loves discovering wonderful new places away from the usual tourist trails? If you are nodding your head, then the captivating city of Limoges is for you.
Kim Layton
Kim has lived in France for many years. She lives in Limousin, one of the most rural and unpopulated regions, now part of Nouvelle Aquitaine. Hearing all the time that France is the most visited country in the world, she wondered why, at the height of summer, the towns and beaches around her were not invaded by tourists. After all, it is a beautiful region, with a captivating capital city, medieval towns and villages in every direction and wonderful forests and lakes. After some research, she discovered that although millions visit Paris, the Alps, Provence and a few other tourist favourites, there are vast swathes of France that most people just pass by on their way to one of these better-known places. Better-known, but not necessarily better. So the idea of writing about the regions of France that are not as well known was born. French culture, their joie de vivre, watching the world go by from a cafe terrace against a backdrop of beautiful countryside - all of these and more can be enjoyed without the tourist hordes. Kim calls her readers 'untouristy travellers', people who want to go beyond the usual tourist destinations and to go home knowing that they have learnt a little bit more about the world and how others live.
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Book preview
Captivating Limoges - Kim Layton
France Byways
For the untouristy traveller
Captivating Limoges
Copyright 2019 Kim Layton
We do our best to ensure that all of the information provided is correct at the time of printing. However, it may change at any time without our knowledge. Please confirm all details prior to making bookings or visiting attractions. No representations or warranties are made with respect to the information or graphics in this book, all of which are provided on a strictly as is
basis, without express or implied warranty of any kind.
Table of Contents
Captivating Limoges
The Growth of a Great City
The Château District
Jesuit Chapel to St Pierre Church
From bourgeoisie to butchers
The Butchers' Quarter
The heart of the ancient district
The most beautiful train station and the liqueur store
Limoges Cité - Full of Old World Charm
At the heart of the Cité
Picturesque streets
The Field Marshal and the Resistance
Around the Bridges - Riverside Walk
Saint Etienne to Saint Martial
The port, the park and Royal porcelain
Getting around
Tourist train
Tuk-Tuk
Local buses
Bike hire
Taxis
Local trains
Car hire
What's Happening
Regular Events
Major Events
Attractions
Local history and folk museums
Fine Arts and Crafts
Limoges porcelain
Family outings
The Arts and Local History Exhibitions
Activities
Young children
Family and friends fun
Escape games
Guided canoeing
Sports
Parks, lakes and woodland
Cookery workshops
Wine tasting
Well-being
Entertainment and Nightlife
Cinemas
Music and variety halls
Concerts, theatre and social events
Performing arts theatres
Cabaret
Nightclubs
Discounts
Eating out
Fine dining
French cuisine
Popular
Italian
Chinese
Asian
Japanese
Dining choices
Accommodation
Hotels
Guesthouses
Rentals
Campsites
Getting to Limoges
Ferries
Flights
Trains
Buses
Fellow untouristy travellers
Captivating Limoges
Limoges is the 36th largest city in France and yet many people, including the French themselves, do not know where it is. They may have heard of the world famous Limoges porcelain and there is no doubt that the city's reputation for Fine Arts attracts lots of visitors. But for the most part, it is overlooked by people passing by on the motorway as they travel from the north to the south of France and back again.
So it often comes as a surprise when you discover that this elegant capital city of Limousin is an increasingly popular destination for a city break. And for those already in the know, Limoges has an awful lot going for it.
For the last two years, Limoges has been in the top 3 in an annual survey to find the best places to live in France run by the Express magazine.
Overlooking the Vienne river, the city has a long history dating back to before the Roman occupation. It remains proud of its heritage and in 2008 it was recognised as a Ville et Pays d'Art et d'Histoire, a Town and Region of the Arts and History.
Whilst evidence of the past is all around you, Limoges is now a bustling, modern, student city with many attractions to discover. It is truly one of France's secret cities that captivates and delights today's visitors.
Bienvenue à Limoges...
The Growth of a Great City
Stroll around Limoges, and you will see many vestiges of its historic and often turbulent past. From impressive buildings such as the cathedral, the churches and the Mairie to the modest workers' homes in the narrow streets of the Cité and the beautiful residences of the bourgeoisie, they all have a story to tell.
The following timeline gives some background to many of these places and the people who played their part in their histories.
Because of its central location, a settlement had been growing along the riverbanks since ancient times. Then, around 10BC, the Roman Emperor Augustus arrived in the region. At the time, the settlement that would become the city of Limoges was a staging and trading post, but he considered it important enough to give it his name, Augustoritum. As it grew, an amphitheatre, a theatre and a forum were built. It even had its own currency and Senate to manage its affairs.
Saint Martial arrived around 250AD, heralding the start of the town's religious influence. In the second century, building began on Saint Martial Abbey. It was destroyed in the late 1700s, but during works to construct an underground car park in the 1960s, the original crypt and Saint Martial’s tomb were discovered. An ongoing archaeological dig is revealing a lot more of the abbey’s foundations, now covering a large corner of the Place de la République.
During the 1100s, more people moved into the growing town around its fortified castle. Built on a hill overlooking the town and the surrounding countryside, the castle was protected by a large moat. The Place de la Motte is now a large square with restaurants, shops and the Halles Centrales, the indoor market hall.
By the 13th century, the town had become a flourishing and well known cultural centre. St Martial Abbey and the burgeoning town attracted many educated clerics and monks who contributed to the spread of its artistic influence.
In 1273 the foundations of St Etienne cathedral were laid on the hill overlooking the river.It would take another 615 years before it was finally completed in 1888.
By the 1300s, two distinct settlements were established. One district was on the riverside up to the Puy St Etienne and around the cathedral, overseen by the Bishops of Limoges. The narrow, steep streets leading down to the river were occupied by the workers. The other district was around St Martial Abbey and the castle where the aristocracy and the bourgeoisie lived.
Religious and political differences between the clergy on the hill in St Etienne cathedral and the Viscount in his moated castle just up the road split the city in two for the next 500 years.
In 1370, during the Hundred Years War waged between England and France, there was a massacre during the occupation of the city by Edward, the Black Prince. Limoges had been under English control until August when the town surrendered to the Duke of Berry. Edward was determined to reclaim it