The Complete Guide to Sony's Alpha 7r Ii
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About this ebook
* All the focusing modes explained in an intuitive way
* 4K shooting and choosing a bit rate for video
* The new phase-detect AF (and where it's blind)
* The most popular adapters for legacy glass
* S-Log2 in a way that won't make your eyes glaze over
* And lots more! (641 pages more, to be exact!)
You can learn more at the author's website - Friedman Archives dot com .
Read more from Gary L. Friedman
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The Complete Guide to Sony's Alpha 7r Ii - Gary L. Friedman
The Complete Guide to Sony’s A7r II
Professional insights for the experienced photographer
by Gary L. Friedman
Version 1.2
ISBN 978-1-329-73938-3
On The Cover
Shooting the Milky Way galaxy in Borrego Springs, CA, Ellwood Saurbaugh studies his telescope while standing (almost) perfectly still for 20 seconds at ISO 1600. This shot used a Minolta MC 21mm wide angle lens with adapter. And I used the little-known Bright Monitoring
feature (Section 7.35.2) to help frame the shot in near-total darkness. Thanks to Sony Artisan Of Imagery Spencer Pablo for organizing the event!
For Those of You Who Bought the Printed or E-Reader Edition
There are a LOT of demonstrative illustrations in this book that kind of lose their effectiveness when converted to black-and-white. And some are difficult to see on e-book reader screens like the original Kindle.
And so to offset these problems I’m offering a free, full-color, instantly-downloadable .pdf file of this ebook to all customers who bought printed books (be they color or black-and-white), or who purchased this work through the Amazon Kindle, Apple, Barnes and Noble, or any other e-reader store. (The original .pdf file really does offer a superior user experience. Think of it as the director’s cut
regarding how the author intended the work to be seen.)
To get your free .pdf file, just email me (Gary@FriedmanArchives.com) with a copy of your receipt and I’ll send you a download link. Such a deal!
About the Photos
The photo pages preceding each chapter are images from the www.FriedmanArchives.com stock photo website, and were taken with a wide variety of different cameras over the past 30 years.
About the Author
www.FriedmanArchives.com, is associate editor of CameraCraft magazine (a thoughtful periodical which steers clear of gear and talks about what’s really important in a photograph), and gives highly-acclaimed digital photography seminars worldwide for those who wish to improve their creative photography and learn the essentials in an intuitive manner. Because he teaches seminars worldwide, Mr. Friedman stays in touch with the concerns and challenges of serious amateurs – the kinds of people who buy cameras like the A7r II.
Before graduating to photography he was a rocket scientist for NASA's Jet Propulsion Laboratory (you know, those guys who landed probes on Mars and sent robots like Pioneer, Voyager, Galileo, Pathfinder, Spirit, and Discovery to explore the outer solar system), where he patented the image authentication system used in high-end Canon and Nikon cameras. He has been published in books, newspapers and magazines worldwide, and was listed in the Guinness Book of World Records while in college (go ahead and search the FriedmanArchives.com website if you want to find out what he did to get included).
Despite his mastery of the technical background, Mr. Friedman has an approachable and easy-going teaching style that makes his books a pleasure to read. You can read more about his background at http://friedmanarchives.com/bio.htm.
Table of Contents
Chapter 1 In a Nutshell
1.1
Noteworthy Features
1.1.1 Let’s start with the Sensor
1.1.2 On-Sensor Phase-Detect AF
1.1.3 5-Axis Image Stabilization
1.1.4 Internal 4K and Other Video Features
1.1.5 14-bit Uncompressed RAW
1.1.6 Can shoot 2 Kinds of videos simultaneously
1.1.7 Sweep Panorama
1.1.8 Three Different Low-Light Modes
1.1.9 Handheld High Dynamic Range (HDR)
1.1.10 Peaking Color
1.1.11 Face Detection / Eye AF
1.1.12 Downloadable Apps
1.2
Software for your Camera
1.3
My Pictures Aren't Sharp!
Chapter 2 Essential Configuration
2.1
The Function Button
2.2
Reassignable Buttons
2.3
Some Essential Customizations
2.4
Suggested Configuration for Shooting Kids and Pets
2.5
Suggested Configuration for Video
2.6
Suggested Configuration for shooting portraits
2.7
Suggested Configuration for Legacy Glass
2.8
What’s Incompatible with RAW?
2.9
My Personal Camera Settings
Chapter 3 Quick Guide for the Impatient User
3.1
The Two AUTO Modes
3.1.1 Intelligent Auto
3.1.2 Superior Auto
3.2
P,A,S,M Modes
3.3
Focusing Essentials and Face Detection
3.3.1 Other Focus Area Choices
3.3.2 Face Detection
3.3.3 Focusing Modes
3.3.4 Focus Confirmation
3.3.5 Quickly Switching between Wide Area AF and Spot AF
3.4
Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Playback Mode
3.5
Configuring the DISPlay
3.6
Quick Guide for Video
3.7
Center Lock-On AF
3.8
The Panorama Mode
3.9
Remote Methods
3.10
The Images Remaining Counter
3.11
Lens Nomenclature
3.12
Viewfinder Eyepiece Diopter Correction
Chapter 4 Using Legacy Glass
4.1
Essential Stuff – Read this First
4.1.1 For Manual Focus Lenses
4.1.2 For Autofocus Lenses
4.1.3 Vignetting and Magenta Casts
4.2
A Short List of the Most Popular Adapters
4.2.1 Sony A-mount Lenses
4.2.2 M42 / Pentax Screw Mount
4.2.3 Leica M / Zeiss ZM
4.2.4 Leica R
4.2.5 Canon EF (EOS)
4.2.6 Canon FD
4.2.7 Nikon
4.2.8 Pentax
4.2.9 Minolta MC/MD
4.2.10 Olympus OM
4.2.11 Contax
4.2.12 Medium Format Lenses
Chapter 5 Wi-Fi, NFC, and Apps
5.1
What is NFC?
5.2
Setting Things Up – Smartphone Functions
5.2.1 Install PlayMemories Mobile
5.2.2 Transferring an Image To your Smartphone
5.2.3 Configuring NFC on your Smartphone
5.3
Now What?
5.3.1 Send (resized) images to your smartphone for social Media
5.3.2 Smart Remote Control
5.4
Uploading Files to your Home Computer
5.4.1 Configuring PlayMemories Home
5.4.2 Initiate your Download
5.4.3 Throughput Rates
5.5
Applications
Chapter 6 The Recording
(Camera icon) Menu Settings
6.1
Image Size
6.2
Aspect Ratio
6.3
Quality
6.4
RAW File Type
6.5
Panorama Functions
6.6
(Movie) File Format
6.7
(Movie) Record Setting
6.8
Dual Video REC
6.9
Drive Mode
6.9.1 Single-Shot Advance
6.9.2 Continuous Advance
6.9.3 10s, 5s, and 2s Self-Timers
6.9.4 Self-Timer Continuous
6.9.5 Bracketing
6.9.6 Bracketing for HDR
6.9.7 What exactly changes when you bracket?
6.9.8 White Balance Bracketing
6.9.9 DRO Bracketing
6.10
Bracket Settings
6.11
Flash Mode
6.11.1 Flash Off
6.11.2 Auto Flash
6.11.3 Fill Flash
6.11.4 Slow Sync
6.11.5 Rear Sync
6.11.6 Wireless Flash
6.12
Flash Compensation
6.13
Red Eye Reduction
6.14
Focus Mode
6.15
focus Area
6.15.1 Wide
6.15.2 Zone
6.15.3 Center
6.15.4 Flexible Spot (S, M, or L)
6.15.5 Expand Flexible Spot
6.15.6 Lock-On AF
6.16
Focus Settings
6.17
AF Illuminator
6.18
(Movie) AF Drive Speed
6.19
(Movie) AF Track Sens
6.20
Exposure Compensation
6.21
Exposure Step
6.22
ISO
6.22.1 High ISO Noise Levels
6.22.2 Multi-Frame Noise Reduction (MFNR)
6.22.3 AUTO ISO Settings
6.22.4 Specifying Auto ISO Boundaries
6.22.5 Less-than-100 ISO Values
6.23
ISO Auto Min. SS
6.24
Metering Mode
6.24.1 Center-weighted and Multi-Segment Metering
6.24.2 Spot Metering And AEL
6.24.3 A Different Method of Handling Difficult Lighting
6.25
White Balance
6.25.1 Auto White Balance and Pre-Set White Balance
6.25.2 Tweaking the Pre-Set White Balance
6.25.3 The Color Temperature setting
6.25.4 Custom White Balance
6.26
DRO / Auto HDR
6.27
Creative Styles
6.27.1 Frequently Asked Questions
Contrast Setting
6.27.2 Saturation Setting
6.27.3 Sharpness Setting
6.27.4 Combining Settings
6.27.5 B&W Mode
6.28
Picture Effect
6.28.1 Toy Camera
6.28.2 Pop Color and Posterization
6.28.3 Retro Photo
6.28.4 Partial Color
6.28.5 Soft High-Key
6.28.6 High-Contrast Monochrome
6.28.7 Soft Focus
6.28.8 HDR Painting
6.28.9 Rich-Tone Monochrome
6.28.10 How do these effects differ from before?
6.28.11 Miniature Mode
6.28.12 Watercolor and Illustration Mode
6.29
Picture Profile
6.29.1 The Gamma Curves
6.29.2 Gamma Curve Nomenclature
6.29.3 HDTVs have Much Less Dynamic Range
6.29.4 S-Log2
6.29.5 Grading
6.29.6 The Seven Profiles
6.29.7 Gamma Options
6.30
Zoom
6.31
Focus Magnifier
6.32
Long Exposure NR
6.33
Hi ISO NR
6.34
Center Lock-On AF
6.35
Smile / Face Detection
6.35.1 On (Registered Faces)
6.35.2 Smile Shutter
6.36
Soft Skin Effect
6.37
Auto Object Framing
6.38
Auto Mode
6.39
Scene Selection
6.39.1 Portrait
6.39.2 Sports Action
6.39.3 Macro
6.39.4 Landscape
6.39.5 Sunset
6.39.6 Night Scene
6.39.7 Handheld Twilight
6.39.8 Night Portrait
6.39.9 Anti-Motion Blur
6.40
Movie
6.41
SteadyShot
6.42
Steadyshot Settings
6.43
Color Space
6.44
Auto Slow Shutter
6.45
Audio Recording
6.46
Audio Rec Level
6.47
Audio Out Timing
6.48
Wind Noise Reduction
6.49
Memory Recall
6.50
Memory
Chapter 7 Custom
(Gear icon) Menu Settings
7.1
Zebra
7.2
MF Assist
7.3
Focus Magnification Time
7.4
Grid Line
7.5
Marker Display / Marker Settings
7.6
Audio Level Display
7.7
Auto Review
7.8
DISP Button
7.8.1 Graphic Display
7.8.2 Level
7.8.3 Histogram
7.8.4 For Viewfinder (Rear LCD only)
7.9
Peaking Level / Peaking Color
7.10
Exposure Set. Guide
7.11
Live View Display
7.12
Disp. Cont. AF area
7.13
Phase Detect. Area
7.14
Pre-AF
7.15
Zoom Setting
7.15.1 Differences between CIZ and Digital Zoom
7.16
Eye-start AF (A-mount only)
7.17
FINDER / MONITOR
7.18
Release w/o Lens
7.19
Release w/o Card
7.20
Priority Set in AF-S / AF-C
7.21
AF w/ shutter
7.22
AEL w/ Shutter
7.23
Silent Shooting
7.24
e-Front Curtain Shut.
7.25
S. Auto Img. Extract
7.26
Exp.comp.set
7.27
Reset EV Comp.
7.28
Face Registration
7.29
APS-C / Super 35mm
7.30
AF Micro Adj. (A-mount Lenses Only)
7.30.1 How to Test
7.31
Lens Comp.
7.31.1 Shading
7.31.2 Chromatic Aberration
7.31.3 Distortion
7.32
AF System
7.33
Video Light Mode
7.34
Function Menu Set.
7.35
Custom Key Settings
7.35.1 All Assignable Functions
7.35.2 Bright Monitoring
7.35.3 More on Eye AF
7.35.4 Flash Exposure Lock / Hold
7.36
Dial Setup
7.37
Dial EV Comp
7.38
Zoom Ring Rotate
7.39
MOVIE Button
7.40
Dial / Wheel Lock
Chapter 8 Wi-Fi Menu
8.1
Send to Smartphone
8.2
Send to Computer
8.3
View on TV
8.4
One-Touch (NFC)
8.5
Airplane Mode
8.6
WPS Push
8.7
Access Point Settings
8.8
Edit Device Name
8.9
Disp MAC Address
8.10
SSID/PW Reset
8.11
Reset Network Set.
Chapter 9 Apps Menu
9.1
Application List
9.2
Introduction
Chapter 10 The Playback
Menu Settings
10.1
Delete
10.2
View Mode
10.3
Image Index
10.4
Display Rotation
10.5
Slide Show
10.5.1 PhotoTV HD and Bravia Sync
10.6
Rotate
10.7
Enlarge Image
10.8
Protect
10.9
Specify Printing
10.9.1 Printing the Date on the image
10.9.2 Cancelling DPOF files
Chapter 11 The Setup
(Toolbox Icon) Menu Settings
11.1
Monitor Brightness
11.2
Viewfinder (EVF) Brightness
11.3
Finder Color temp.
11.4
Volume Settings
11.5
Audio Signals
11.6
Upload Settings (Eye-fi card only)
11.7
Tile Menu
11.8
Mode Dial Guide
11.9
Delete Confirm.
11.10
Display Quality
11.11
Power Save Start Time
11.12
NTSC/PAL Selector
11.13
Cleaning Mode
11.14
Demo Mode
11.15
TC/UB Settings
11.16
Remote Ctrl
11.17
HDMI Settings
11.17.1 HDMI Resolution
11.17.2 24p / 60p Output
11.17.3 HDMI Info. Display
11.17.4 TC Output
11.17.5 REC Control
11.17.6 CTRL FOR HDMI
11.18
4K Output Sel(ect)
11.19
USB Connection
11.19.1 PC Remote Software
11.20
USB LUN Setting
11.21
USB Power Supply
11.22
Language
11.23
Date/Time Setup
11.24
Area Setting
11.25
Copyright Info
11.26
Format
11.27
File Number
11.28
Select REC Folder
11.29
New Folder
11.30
Folder Name
11.30.1 If Standard Form is Selected
11.30.2 If Date Form is Selected
11.31
Recover Image DB
11.32
Display Media Info.
11.33
Version
11.34
Setting Reset
Chapter 12 Movie Mode
12.1
The Simplified Explanations
12.2
So How Do I Know What Video Format to Choose?
12.3
Choosing a Frame Rate and a Bit Rate
12.4
4K Shooting
12.5
Capturing a 4K Freeze Frame
12.6
Slow-Motion Videos
12.7
Manual Control in Movie Mode
12.8
AVCHD Warnings
12.8.1 Why is my camera warning me when I change formats?
12.8.2 Can’t Record this Kind of Movie
12.9
Playing back Videos
12.10
Shooting 2 Video Formats At Once
12.11
External Microphones
12.12
External Display
12.13
Monitoring Video and Audio
12.14
Importing your Files to your Computer
Chapter 13 Wireless Flash and Advanced Flash Topics
13.1
Introduction
13.2
Flash Models
13.3
Bounce Flash
13.3.1 Diffusing your Light
13.4
Wireless Flash
13.5
As Simple As It Gets
13.6
The New Wireless Protocol
13.6.1 How to do Ratio Flash
13.6.2 Advanced 2- or 3-way Ratio Flash
13.7
Groups and Channels
13.8
Will the Control Bursts Affect Exposure?
13.9
Manual Flash Mode
13.9.1 To Put the 60 Into Manual Slave Mode
13.9.2 To put the 43 into Manual Slave mode
13.10
A Portable Studio Setup
13.11
High Speed Sync (HSS) flash
How it works
13.12
To Probe Further
Chapter 14 DRO and HDR
14.1
Dynamic Range Optimization
14.1.1 How it Works
14.1.2 More DRO examples
14.1.3 Frequently Asked Questions about DRO
14.1.4 So When Does DRO kick in?
14.1.5 When DRO is bad
14.1.6 Combining with Sunset Image Style
14.1.7 DRO on Your Computer
14.2
High Dynamic Range (HDR)
14.3
DRO vs. HDR
Chapter 15 Digital Imaging Topics
15.1
Introduction
15.2
An Introduction to RAW
15.3
The Bayer Filter and Demosaicing
15.4
How Your Camera Creates A JPG
15.5
RAW, TIF, and JPG Compared
15.6
JPG Compression Artifacts
15.7
Any Other Upsides to Shooting .JPG?
15.8
RAW Processing using catpure One Express
15.9
RAW Processing using Lightroom or Adobe Camera RAW
15.10
Image Size and Resolution
15.11
Hot Pixels
15.12
Memory Cards
15.12.1 Memory Card Corruption Issues
Chapter 16 Additional Resources
16.1
Some Cool Accessories
16.1.1 External USB Battery
16.1.2 Dirt Cheap Battery Chargers
16.1.3 World's lightest 3-axis gimbal
16.1.4 Less-Protruding Rubber Eye Cup
16.1.5 Screen Protector
16.1.6 Movie button modifier
16.1.7 External Microphones
16.1.8 And more…
16.2
Upsells
16.2.1 Books on Other Cameras
16.2.2 An Introduction to Sony’s Wireless Flash (video)
16.2.3 Ways to ‘Wow!’ with Wireless Flash
16.2.4 25 Ways to Wow!
e-Booklet
16.2.5 Advanced Topics 2
16.2.6 f2 Cameracraft Magazine
16.2.7 The Friedman Archives Seminars
16.2.8 Facebook and The Friedman Archives Blog
16.2.9 The Road to China
16.2.10 The Maui Xaphoon
16.3
Epilogue
Appendix A A Condensed Guide to the Basics
A.1
Shutter Speeds
A.2
F/Stops
A.3
ISO
A.4
Focal Length
A.5
Tradeoffs
A.6
Program Shift
A.7
The Histogram Display
16.3.1 Brightness range, sensors, and the human eye
16.3.2 Using the Histogram for a finer degree of control
A.8
The Secrets
of Light and Composition
A.9
Writing with Light
A.10
Composition – The Rule of Thirds
Out of place shot
Texture
Classical Portrait
Environmental Portrait
Hey, Look at Me!
Appendix B A Cookbook
for Special Shooting Situations
B.1
Introduction
B.2
Street Photography
B.3
Fireworks
B.4
Artistic Waterfalls
B.5
Stage Performances / Rock Concerts
B.6
Nighttime Time Exposures
B.7
Shooting in Snow
B.8
Outdoor Group Portraits
B.9
Sunsets and Silhouettes
B.10
Nighttime Sports
B.11
Christmas Lights
B.12
Product Shots
B.13
Candlelight Shots
B.14
Star Trails
Appendix C Tip Cards
Index
Chapter 1 In a Nutshell
Welcome to what I would call a miracle of engineering. Sony has taken the completely opposing requirements of high image quality, small size, computational power, tiny battery, high ISO, low noise, in-body stabilization, and low heat dissipation and created a camera whose image quality is so good that people are starting to sell all their Canon and Nikon gear to switch to this new, high-performing platform. Not an easy feat.
But you probably already knew all that. Let's get right to it then, shall we?
It’s not the highest megapixel chip on the planet. That award would go to the 50 megapixel Canon 5DS. But this A7r II has been making waves in the photographic world for its combination of resolution, dynamic range, and 4K video quality – 3 areas which are usually tradeoffs when you’re designing a sensor. This sensor is so good that DxO (a lens testing website) says it’s the best sensor it’s ever tested! http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Sony/A7R-II And here’s a similar accolade from DSLR magazine, saying Sony A7rII JPG files are as good as the Canon 5DSr and Phase One XF RAW files!
- http://bit.ly/1VR5VH5
Your biggest challenge, then, is to come up with a compelling image that is worthy of 42 megapixels. :-)
(Scholarly note: Usually I ignore lens and sensor testing websites, since all cameras available today are excellent. But when a camera I’m already invested in gets high scores, my confirmation bias kicks in and I suddenly pay attention.)
If 42 megapixels is too much for shooting your child’s birthday party, you can also use this camera in APS-C mode, attaching an older E-mount lens and getting great quality 18 megapixel images – essentially turning your A7r II into NEX-6 (with a much better user interface). It’s like having two camera bodies in one!
Sony has been toying with this capability ever since the A99, but were never able to solve all the technical problems associated with it until now. In all previous models, any on-sensor phase detect array would only kick in after the focus had been confirmed via other means. But with the A7r II, for the first time a large array of phase-detect AF points (more than any other DSLR) can be used to get focus, and to track moving objects. What’s more, these same phase-detect pixels can now directly drive autofocus lenses from Canon (and soon Nikon) using an intelligent adapter, just as quickly as if they were on a native Canon body!
A Primer – Phase Detect vs. Contrast Detect
A lot of this Contrast Detect
and Phase Detect
stuff may sound very confusing. And really, why should you care about the technical details as long as the camera just does what it is supposed to do?
It’s important to understand the differences because not all features involving Phase Detect will work with all lenses, and there are subtle interactions between features that won’t make sense without this knowledge. Plus, from an engineering point of view, you can’t help but be impressed at how Sony has merged these two fundamentally incompatible technologies.
So let’s start with how Contrast Detect works. Contrast Detect requires no special hardware; essentially your camera just does a lot of hunting and guessing until it gets close, then it refines the hunt until it can see high contrast in adjacent pixels (the tell-tale sign that something is in focus!) In computer science terms it’s doing what’s called a binary search, and it works like the flowchart in Figure 1-1.
Contrast detect isn’t bad if you have a wide-ish lens and your subject isn’t moving. Its limitations can really be seen if you’re using a telephoto lens and you’re trying to track an Olympic athlete. That’s why the original E-mount cameras used contrast-detect exclusively – it was easy to implement, and the casual snapshooters the platform was originally aimed at would be happy with the performance using their pancake or kit lenses.
Phase Detect doesn’t rely on guessing. Using special pixel pairs that are baked right into the sensor, the camera can know right away how much to move the lens (and in which direction) in order to achieve proper focus in the first try, providing significantly faster AF without hunting, and superior subject tracking ability. Figure 1-2 shows a flow chart showing how Phase Detect AF works.
DSLRs all use phase-detect. But the implementation on the A7r II is superior for two reasons: 1) there are more phase detect AF points on the sensor than on any other DSLR ever, so you’re not limited to keeping your subject in that clump in the center, and 2) unlike with DSLRs or SLT cameras, you will never have frontfocus or backfocus problems because the autofocusing array is on the same plane as the sensor – it’s a closed loop system. (You can see a sample of the focus point distribution in Figure 1-3.)
Now here’s where things get fun. Lenses that were designed with contrast-detect autofocusing in mind are driven very differently than lenses that are designed for phase-detect. Conversely, lenses designed only for phase-detect work pretty poorly when attached to a contrast-detect camera. As soon as I get back from Australia I’m going to create a Youtube video showing an A-mount lens (which is phase-detect all the way) attached to an NEX-7 camera body (contrast-detect AF all the way) using an LA-EA1 adapter and you can SEE just how slow and jerky the autofocusing is. It’s just tough to merge the two technologies.
That’s why it’s impressive to me that Sony has designed all of the FE (full-frame E-mount lenses) to work with both systems – you can have all the speed of phase-detect with all the extra features that contrast detect allows (like face detection and Eye AF).
So there may be times when you attach a lens designed for Contrast-detect only to your A7r II and certain features will suddenly not be available. For example, if you were to attach the kit
lens for the original NEX-7 (officially known as the E 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS), you’ll notice that some of the camera’s menu items which rely on phase detect-capable lenses are suddenly greyed out, like MENU --> 4 --> AF Drive Speed and MENU --> 4 --> AF Track Sense.
And if you were to attach a lens that was Phase-detect only (like the A-mount lens and LA-EA3 adapter mentioned 3 paragraphs ago), you’ll notice that certain features that require a lens to be CD-AF like (again, like the face recognition and Eye AF) suddenly don’t work anymore.
So that’s why this is called a Hybrid AF
system – you get the benefits of both worlds and none of the drawbacks.
This goes against the original vision for the E-mount platform, which was to keep the stabilization in the lens to keep the body small and to thwart heat buildup issues.
BUT the legions of high-end shooters who want to use these tiny bodies to shoot with legacy glass (with no autofocus, and no built-in lens stabilization) have been clamoring for Sony to employ the sensor-shaking image stabilization method in their bodies anyway. And Sony listened. And amazingly, the body isn’t that much bigger, nor has heat buildup posed a problem. I truly believe the A7r II represents the most sophisticated engineering ever to grace a camera.
The A7r II’s built-in SteadyShot can correct for 5 (count ‘em!) dimensions of shake: Roll, Pitch, Yaw, Vertical, and Horizontal. I could show you a complex diagram of what that all means, or I could show you this outstanding video from Sony when they introduced this improved sensor-based SteadyShot in the A7 II camera body: https://youtu.be/svbUXedWsbA
What if you attach a native OSS
-type E-mount lens that already has image stabilization built in? Then the camera will make use of its capabilities, and augment it with corrections along the additional axes.
4K Video is quickly becoming a thing. (Not every video advancement does. Remember the 3D TV craze from a few years back that never got traction?) (Heck, remember quadraphonic stereo from the 1970’s?)
Anyway, word from Japan says young mothers just LOVE all the detail when watching 4K videos of their little babies. Cinematographers seem to be embracing it as well.
In the past, when you wanted to shoot 4K video on Sony’s previous 4K-shooting E-mount (the A7s), you had to hook up an external digital video recorder, as pushing all that data onto the camera’s memory card would fill up the buffers too quickly. Thankfully that problem has been addressed, and now you can save a compressed version of 4K video internally to the camera. (If you’re a purist and want uncompressed 4K video, you’ll still need to hook up an external digital recorder to the camera’s HDMI port. But now you have a choice.)
The Sony engineers have gone out of their way to mention just how this 42 MP sensor is optimized for superior 4K video shooting: To eliminate the artifacts that are common when shooting video with DSLRs (like pixel binning
and/or rolling shutter
), the camera by default draws its 4K pixels from the center area of the sensor, officially referred to as the Super 35
crop. (See Figure 1-5.) When in this mode the camera is actually sampling 5K pixels, and then downsampling it to 4K before saving it to memory.
There are a host of other features on this camera targeted specifically at video enthusiasts:
There's also a XAVC S HD video format that records in HD (1920 x 1080) and a high bitrate (100 MB/s) and a high frame rate (up to 120 frames per second for NTSC), allowing for the creation of smooth slow-motion video.
Picture Profiles are a series of settings designed for professional videographers who intend to post-process their video (usually referred to as 'grading' in the video world). This includes the famous S-Log 2 curve (which I explain thoroughly in Section 6.29).
Zebra Stripes, a feature which professional videographers have been using for decades .
This section actually covers two separate but related features: The first is 14-bit RAW, which allows images to withstand extreme image manipulation a little better. The second is uncompressed RAW, which takes up considerably more space on your memory card in exchange for a complete lack of artifacts that you wouldn't see anyway unless you hang out on dpreview.com.
14-Bit RAW
Nikon and Canon have had this feature for years. More bits are better, right?
The truth is you may not notice any difference at all in normal shooting. (And when I say Normal shooting
I mean if you have good light and your exposure is right for that light
, which is much more important to good photography than noise performance at high ISOs). When Nikon first introduced this 14-bit feature back in 2008, many of their customers started looking for visible differences in the 14-bit mode, but visible differences proved elusive. The extra bits only matter if your exposure is off by a lot and you’re trying to recover detail from the shadows. Most printers and LCD monitors can’t show you the improved tonality, although in theory such images can withstand extreme manipulation a little bit better.
Just to show you how little difference this makes, you might wish to read these two articles written by a Nikon owner in 2008: http://tinyurl.com/2e4nss and http://tinyurl.com/4enno8.
It should be noted that there’s no menu item to turn this feature on or off -- the A7r II goes into 14-bit mode automatically when you’re shooting RAW in single-shot mode and goes back to 12-bit in any other drive mode, or when shutter speed is set to BULB, or Long Exposure Noise Reduction is employed.
Uncompressed RAW
So that's 14-bit RAW. But there's another improvement – on October 19, 2015, Sony released a new firmware update that allows you to save your RAW files as either compressed (which was the original version) or uncompressed. Why is this important?
We all know that lossy compression (like the kind used to create .jpgs) brings with it the possibility of introducing compression artifacts, with some algorithms providing more artifacts than others. Well, it turns out that since the Alpha 900, Sony's RAW files have been compressed as well, just not as aggressively as .jpg and in a way that hardly anyone would notice. And when I say hardly anyone
, I'm referring specifically to Iliah Borg, a vocal internet citizen and author of the Libraw raw file decoder (http://www.libraw.org) who has started a vocal online campaign to shame Sony into offering the same 14-bit uncompressed RAW files that Canon and Nikon have offered for years.
Is compressed RAW a problem? Here is a real-world example posted to dpreview which demonstrates the compression artifacts pretty clearly: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52949203. And here's one from Iliah's website: http://bit.ly/1DRcCR6 . For those of you who are offline, I'll give you a verbal summary: Compression artifacts will only show up in areas where the image goes from extreme dark to extreme light (for example, fireworks or star trails) AND you pixel peep. (A lot.)
While I do think the world benefits from this kind of technical scrutiny (after all, how will the cameras ever improve if there weren't people out there looking for these things?), I also think that the vast majority of A7r II owners will not notice this compressed RAW problem
in daily use. (I certainly didn't notice the problem in my star trail shots shown in my blog post here: http://bit.ly/1JO6W6E .) On the other hand, if I were using the camera for scientific pursuits instead of artistic ones, I'd probably start caring a lot since the camera is altering the reality it's supposed to be representing.
So the benefits, just like the demonstrated problem, may very well be imperceptible. Is there a drawback? Oh, yes! YOUR RAW FILE SIZE WILL DOUBLE, going from 42 megabytes to a whopping 84 MB per image! That's a pretty significant price to pay for a barely perceivable benefit.
So why am I treating this triumph of a vocal minority with such indifference? Maybe it’s because I’m not an extreme manipulator of my images (instead I always strive for the best light – that has a bigger impact anyway). Or maybe it’s because the size of my RAW files have just doubled and my hard drive space will now be eaten up much more quickly. Regardless, while we can all applaud Sony for listening to its most vocal customers, I can't say this is a benefit that will affect any aspect of my photography.
This is a feature made especially for videographers who are also social media moguls. It is designed to address this very scenario: You’ve just shot some cool high-res video and you want to share it on Facebook while still in the field. So you bump your phone to the Camera (using NFC) and transfer the video footage to the camera so that you may then upload it to Facebook. The problem is that the high-res video footage is LARGE, it takes up a lot of space on your phone and it uses eats up your data plan in the process. There’s GOT to be a better way!
Leveraging the fact that Facebook just crappifies (that’s a word!) video anyway, Sony has now given you the option of storing video in two different formats each time you shoot a video clip: The high-quality format (XAVC S 4K, XAVC S HD, or AVCHD), along with a [much] lower-quality .MP4 version which is the perfect size for uploading to social media in the field. (This is an even smaller size and lower quality than can be selected manually via the menus!)
You can enable Dual Mode via MENU --> 2 --> Dual Video REC --> On. See Section 6.8 for which Record Settings allow its use.
This feature is so common now that I considered taking out this chapter altogether - except I like showing off the panoramas I've made over the past 5 years. :-) More information about Sweep Panorama can be found in section 6.5.
These all can get kind of confusing since these three features are all advertised to do the same thing. The features are:
The first three features are designed for when you’re shooting in low light and don’t have a tripod handy. (And you just hate noisy pictures at high ISO.) For years, professional photographers (astrophotographers in particular) had a trick up their sleeves when it came to reducing noise in static images – they would take several different shots in succession, and then merge them all in Photoshop. The underlying principle was that each frame had the same subject but completely random noise, and by combining the images the noise would just get averaged
away, while the subject, which appeared consistently in each shot, would be reinforced.
Using the same intelligence found in the panorama stitching algorithms, your camera can use this very same technique. Using either Handheld Twilight mode or the Multi-Frame Noise-Reduction function, the camera will take several handheld shots in rapid succession, line them all up (in case your hand wasn’t perfectly steady), merge them all together, and produce one high-resolution, low-noise, low-light image – all in-camera!
These are both very innovative features and you can see an example of Handheld Twilight in Figure 1-6.
Anti-Motion blur does the same thing but then analyzes each of the frames before merging, and doesn’t merge anything that’s blurred. The idea being that only the sharp parts of each of the four frames will end up in the merged shot.
Three Low-Light Modes Compared
This seems like as good a place as any to compare the multi-frame low-light modes (MFNR, HHT, AMB). (Figure 1-8). (Mind you, none of these fancy modes are better than using a tripod at low ISO.)
I have to tell you that I’ve done this test many times on books with different cameras, and in the past the visible differences between these modes have been striking and apparent. In more recent cameras the differences are so subtle that I really have to pixel peep in order to see them. (And I believe that if you have to pixel peep that much to see a difference, then the differences are not at all meaningful.)
Bottom Line: While nothing beats a tripod, of all the low-light modes offered, Multi-Frame Noise Reduction really does the best job of reducing noise without degrading the detail (more info in Section 6.22.2). Next runner-up is good old Program mode :-), followed by Anti-Motion blur, which works well with moving objects (and is described more in Section 6.39.2). Handheld Twilight (which I feel is now obsolete and doesn’t really offer any advantages) is discussed further starting in Section 6.39.7.
Another test showing the pronounced difference between Multi-Frame Noise Reduction and Anti-Motion Blur in a scenario where a tripod wouldn’t have helped can be seen in Figure 1-9. Pretty significant.
In Appendix A, I talk about the limited dynamic range of the digital sensor, and how our eyes can see a significantly greater range of light (bright to dark) than what the camera can see. There have been lots of attempts to correct this intentional artifact of photographic representation of real light. The latest technique for trying to achieve this wider dynamic range comes in what’s become known as High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography.
The time-honored way to create an HDR image is to put the camera on a tripod and take 3 (sometimes more) pictures of the same scene, each at different exposures – some darker, some lighter. Then, you merge them all in your computer so it sort of looks like the way you saw it in real life. An example of HDR photography appears in Figure 1-10.
Up until now, HDR photography was labor-intensive and unintuitive. But Sony's HDR feature tried to make it simple – without needing a tripod, the camera will take 3 pictures of different exposures, line them up (in case your hand was moving), and merge them so the brightest and darkest parts of all 3 come through.
I should warn you, though, that this feature only covers