Sunday Casseroles: Complete Comfort in One Dish

Introduction

A good marriage is like a casserole; only those responsible for it really know what goes into it!

—ANONYMOUS

Casseroles, like Proust’s famous madeleines, evoke fond memories. Mention the word casserole, and most will describe, often in detail, their favorite all-in-one dish. Some swoon at the thought of their mother’s creamy mac and cheese or glorious lasagna. Others become wistful as they talk of tuna noodle casseroles covered with a layer of crushed potato chips taken hot from the oven. My husband smiles when he remembers his father’s baked enchiladas filled with chiles and cheese. And those of us who have been cooking for several decades recall green bean casseroles bound with mushroom soup and topped with crispy fried onions from a can.

Covered dishes, gratins, hot dishes, baked stews, pot pies, pilafs, stratas, scalloped foods—the names alone make your mouth water—all fall under the category of casseroles. What they have in common is that they are baked in a single dish and are served most often as a main course, and sometimes as a side. The word casserole also refers to the cookware—often glass, ceramic, or cast-iron—used to cook such food.

It’s not hard to figure out why these all-in-one dishes are so popular. They are convenient, easy to assemble, and endlessly versatile, and, more often than not, they can be prepared ahead. Such dishes fit effortlessly into the hectic lives of today’s cooks.

For this book, I wanted to update some of those fondly remembered dishes and invent new ones as well. Our culinary landscape has changed over the past few decades. Grocery stores large and small sell dozens of varieties of cheeses, display shelves of artisan breads, and fill produce bins with an array of interesting fruits and vegetables. The meat, poultry, and seafood counters boast far more selections than they did when casseroles first became popular in the mid-twentieth century. This transformation of the marketplace inspires how we all cook, and influenced the choices I made for this collection.

My goal was to use as many fresh ingredients as possible by replacing those omnipresent canned creamed soups (high in sodium) with easily made sauces. In fact, the only soups called for in this collection are low-salt broths. At my farmers’ market and in the produce aisles of my local grocery stores, I filled my cart with a cornucopia of seasonal produce for these recipes. Sweet potatoes, chard, fennel, and cauliflower went into cold-weather dishes, while asparagus, sugar snaps, corn, eggplant, and tomatoes were ideal for spring and summer fare. And, yes, you can pour bread crumbs from a can, but by investing only a few extra minutes of time, you can make fresher and far tastier ones.

Casseroles are an American specialty, but countries around the world claim their own one-dish favorites. You’ll see Italian roots in Lelia’s Venetian Chicken with Porcini Mushrooms and Fontina (page 28), and a French influence in a Provençal Tian of Tomatoes and Summer Squash with Basil and Mint (page 95). Comforting Smoked Sausage, Kale, and Mushroom Cottage Pie (page 116) is reminiscent of English country cooking.

Some of these recipes can be prepped and baked in an hour’s time, but others will take the better part of an afternoon and would be perfect to cook on the weekend. A few dishes are best when made and served immediately, while many can be prepared several hours or even a day ahead.

You will find that the casseroles within these pages easily fit into your life—for weeknight suppers, meals for company, for potluck dinners, and as thoughtful gifts for friends or neighbors in need.

When I began the research for this collection, a quick review of many contemporary cookbooks revealed that casseroles were not included. Their indexes went straight from carrots to, in some cases, caviar! That was my wake-up call to create the recipes in Sunday Casseroles. One of my friends put the need for this book very clearly, explaining that in her contemporary plugged-in and harried life, she consistently turns to one-dish meals. They are not supporting players in her culinary repertoire; they have leading roles.

I hope that these special casseroles find a place of honor in your kitchen, and that some day they, too, will evoke warm and wonderful memories. Imagine what Proust would have written, had his mother served him a chicken pot pie!

CASSEROLE TIPS AND GUIDELINES

• Baking dishes with the same volume can vary in their dimensions, which will affect how quickly the ingredients cook. Shallower dishes, for example, tend to cook more quickly than deeper ones. The recipes in this book all call for shallow baking dishes.

• Butter or oil your baking dishes to prevent food from sticking, unless the ingredients are cooked in a generous amount of braising liquid.

• A white sauce (also called béchamel) is often used to bind ingredients in casseroles. To make the sauce, you melt butter, cook a little flour in it, and then add milk, cream, half-and-half (or another liquid) and cook until the mixture thickens. There are two important things to remember: You should cook the flour in the butter for at least 1¹/2 minutes to remove its raw taste, and whisk the sauce constantly once the liquid has been added to prevent the flour from burning on the bottom of the pan.

• Creamy cheeses that melt easily can be used instead of white or cheese sauces. Gorgonzola and mascarpone are good stand-ins.

• After cutting, slicing, or dicing raw meat, poultry, or fish for a casserole, clean the cutting board immediately to prevent contamination. Rinse it under water, and then pour vinegar or squeeze lemon juice over the cutting surface. Finally, wash the board well.

• When cooking pasta for casseroles, use plenty of boiling water (4 to 5 qt/3.8 to 4.7 L per 1 lb/455 g), season generously with salt, and stir during the first few minutes of cooking. Do not add oil to the pasta water or rinse the cooked pasta, both of which will prevent sauces from adhering to pasta.

• When making toasted bread crumbs from scratch for casseroles, choose good-quality artisan-style bread. Sourdough works particularly well, but you can use whole-wheat, multigrain, or rye loaves, too.

• In addition to, or in place of, bread crumbs, try toasted nuts, such as almonds, walnuts, pecans, and peanuts, as toppings to add extra texture and flavor to casseroles.

• To transport a heated casserole, place it in a large roasting pan lined with pot holders or kitchen towels. Cover with foil.

Make-Ahead and Freezing Guidelines

• To bake a casserole ahead of time, cool completely, and then cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

• To freeze a casserole, you can either assemble and freeze or bake and freeze, depending on the recipe. Either way, cool completely and cover tightly with plastic wrap, and then with foil. Add a label with the name of the recipe and the date. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator.

• Whether refrigerated or frozen, bring a casserole to room temperature 30 minutes to 1 hour (but no longer) before baking or reheating. You may need to add extra baking time when a dish has been refrigerated.

• Reheat casseroles in a moderate (around 350°F/180°C) oven, covered, so that they do not dry out on the second go-round. If a casserole seems to be dry, you can stir in a little more of the liquid that was called for in the recipe. Reheating in a microwave will warm the food but will also soften crispy toppings.

Some Basic Preparations

Crème Fraîche

To prepare homemade crème fraîche, whisk 1 cup/240 ml heavy cream and ¹/3 cup/75 ml sour cream together in a medium nonreactive bowl. Let stand at room temperature until thickened, about 6 hours. Cover and refrigerate. (Crème fraîche can be stored for up to 1 week, covered, in the refrigerator.) Makes about 1¹/3 cups/315 ml.

Crushed Caraway or Fennel Seeds

Coarsely grind caraway or fennel seeds in an electric spice grinder, or place them in a mortar and crush finely with a pestle, or seal them in a plastic bag and pound with a meat mallet or rolling pin. The seeds should be finely crushed.

Toasted Bread Crumbs

Use a one- to two-day-old loaf of good-quality artisan-style country bread with crusts removed. (Sourdough works particularly well, but whole wheat, multigrain, and rye are good, too.) Process enough slices or pieces in a food processor to make 1 cup/55 g of coarse crumbs. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a medium, heavy frying pan over medium heat. Add the crumbs and cook, stirring constantly, until they are crisp and rich golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. You can also use unsalted butter instead of the olive oil. (The bread crumbs can be stored in a plastic self-sealing bag and refrigerated for up to 1 week.) Makes 1 cup/55 g.

Toasted Caraway Seeds

To toast caraway seeds, place them in a small, dry frying pan over medium heat, tossing or stirring lightly until browned and fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Watch carefully so they don't burn.

Toasted Nuts

To toast nuts, spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet and place in a preheated 350°F/180°C oven until lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Pecans usually take 5 to 6 minutes, while walnuts and almonds will need 6 to 8 minutes. Watch carefully so they don't burn. Remove from the oven and cool.

CASSEROLE COOKWARE ESSENTIALS

Baking Dishes

Glass, ceramic, and porcelain dishes do not conduct heat quickly, but they retain it well once a casserole has been baked, so they are popular options. You can use round, oval, square, or rectangular dishes in a variety of sizes. Or you can bake casseroles in small individual dishes. Here’s a good basic selection:

• 1¹/2-qt/1.4-L shallow baking dish

• 2-qt/2-L shallow baking dish

• 3-qt/2.8-L shallow baking dish

• 9-by-13-in/23-by-33-cm baking dish

• 4- to 5-qt/3.8- to 4.7-L shallow baking dish

• Set of four 5¹/2-in/14-cm (in diameter) gratin or crème brûlée dishes, to use for individual casseroles

• Set of six 1-cup/240-ml ramekins, for individual pot pies

Cooking Equipment

• Medium and large saucepans with lids

• Medium (10-in/25-cm) and large (12-in/30.5-cm) frying pans with lids

• Large stockpot with lid

• Rimmed baking sheet

Kitchen Tools and Bowls

• Oven thermometer

• Whisks, rubber spatulas, wooden spoons

• 1-, 2-, and 4-cup/240-, 480-, and 960-ml liquid measuring cups

• Set of dry measuring cups

• Measuring spoons

• Tongs

• Citrus zester

• Vegetable peeler

• Box grater

• Set of graduated mixing bowls

Knives

• 6- to 8-in/15- to 20-cm chef’s knife

• Serrated knife

• 2 paring knives

• 2 or 3 cutting boards

THE CASSEROLE PANTRY

In the Cupboard

• All-purpose flour

• Broths: reduced-sodium beef and chicken

• Condiments and oils: Dijon mustard, olive and canola oils, cider and balsamic vinegars

• Dried herbs: basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme

• Dried pastas: farfalle, fettuccine, macaroni, penne, rigatoni

• Garlic

• Leftover crusty bread for bread crumbs

• Legumes: canned black beans, cannellini, chickpeas, kidney beans

• Nuts: almonds, peanuts, pecans, walnuts

• Rice: American long-grain, Arborio, basmati, wild

• Spices: cayenne pepper, chili powder, chipotle chile powder, curry powder, fennel seeds, nutmeg, red pepper flakes

• Tomatoes: canned diced tomatoes, tomato paste

• Yellow onions

In the Fridge

• Cheeses: sharp cheddar, feta, Gruyère, Monterey Jack, Parmesan

• Dairy: butter, cream, crème fraîche, half-and-half, milk, sour cream

• Meats and poultry: andouille sausage, bacon, chorizo, ham, kielbasa, leftover turkey or rotisserie chicken, prosciutto

CHICKEN AND TURKEY FAVORITES

New and Old Traditions

It’s no wonder that chicken is such a popular starting point when making a casserole. Is there anything more versatile? You can fashion one-dish meals with cubed or halved breasts, use whole thighs, or shred or slice the meat from a store-bought rotisserie chicken. And turkey is equally adaptable. Turkey cutlets, cubed turkey breasts or tenderloins, ground turkey, and leftovers from the Thanksgiving bird all make excellent primary ingredients for casseroles.

Home cooks often fret that chicken and turkey (no matter the cut) will dry out if included in casseroles, but both hold up beautifully in a hot oven when napped with sauces or covered with vegetables. Morsels of poultry, large or small, consistently come out moist and fork-tender. Some dishes in this chapter will need a short time in the oven while others will require a longer stay. In Lelia’s Venetian Chicken with Porcini Mushrooms and Fontina (page 28), sliced chicken breasts coated with mushroom sauce are meltingly tender in less than thirty minutes. But for Baked Chicken, Fennel, and Tomatoes (page 20), count on an hour and a half before the chicken thighs are tender and their meat is falling off the bone.

In many recipes, chicken and turkey are interchangeable. Creamed Turkey, Fall Vegetables, and Wild Rice Bake (page 30) can easily be prepared with chicken, and for Turkey Cutlets Baked with Gruyère and Onions (page 36), chicken yields equally delicious results.

You’ll find old favorites with