Afternoon Tea At Home
By Will Torrent
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About this ebook
Arranged by season, and with extra chapters on a Classic afternoon tea and a Showstopper afternoon tea, Will showcases his no-nonsense approach to the techniques involved in patisserie, baking, chocolate work and serving savoury dishes. Beautifully illustrated and an invaluable source of inspiration, there are also six guest recipes from top restaurants and hotels: The Ritz; The Dorchester; The Gramercy Tavern; The Berkeley; Harrods and Raymond Blanc's Les Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. Starting with a brief history of British afternoon tea, Will then offers up recipes for jams, spreads, butters and curds – everything you might need to serve with an afternoon tea. Recipes include Smoked Salmon & Whipped Cream Cheese sandwiches, Cherry & Almond Bakewell Tarts and Fruited Scones; as well as more adventurous offerings of Prosecco, Lime & Mint Jellies and Lemon & Lime Matcha Tea Friands.
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Afternoon Tea At Home - Will Torrent
Afternoon tea essentials
Jams and jellies
STRAWBERRY AND CHAMPAGNE
A traditional afternoon tea requires basic condiments to be served alongside the delicate plates of food. These can of course be bought – there are many good-quality jams/jellies, curds, spreads and butters available in stores – but if you really want to go all out, try one of the recipes from these pages. Jam sugar has added pectin which helps to set the mixture.
750 g/7½ cups strawberries
500 g/2½ cups jam sugar
200 ml/¾ cup Champagne
juice of 1 lemon
BLACKCURRANT AND CASSIS
750 g/7½ cups blackcurrants
500 g/2½ cups jam sugar
100 ml/⅓ cup water
100 ml/⅓ cup cassis
CHERRY AND KIRSCH
750 g/7½ cups fresh pitted/stoned cherries
500 g/2½ cups jam sugar
100 ml/⅓ cup water
100 ml/⅓ cup Kirsch
APRICOT AND VANILLA
750 g/7½ cups fresh pitted/stoned apricots
500 g/2½ cups jam sugar
200 ml/¾ cup orange juice
juice of 1 lemon
1 vanilla pod/bean, seeds scraped out
a sugar thermometer
a chilled plate or saucer
Each makes about 750 g/1¾ lbs.
For each of the jams/jellies, put all the ingredients into a large pan set over a medium heat and cook to 112°C (234°F) on a sugar thermometer. This is the ‘setting’ stage.
To test for a set, drop ½ teaspoon of the mixture onto a chilled plate, leave it for 30 seconds, then gently push it with your fingertip. If it wrinkles then it is ready, if not, continue to cook the jam/jelly for another 2 minutes and test again.
Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 2–3 minutes before pouring into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jams/jellies outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 6 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 4 weeks.
The Dorchester Lemon curd
4 g/2 sheets leaf gelatin
300 ml/1¼ cup lemon juice
5 eggs, beaten
160 ml/⅔ cup clear honey
150 g/1 stick plus 2 tablespoons butter
a sugar thermometer
Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.
To make the lemon curd, soak the gelatin in cold water for 10 minutes.
Put the lemon juice in a pan over a medium heat and warm through. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the beaten eggs and honey together, then pour into the pan with the lemon juice. Bring to the boil, stirring all the time. Cook for 1 minute then remove from the heat.
Drain the gelatin and squeeze off any excess water before adding to the pan. Bring to the boil, then cool down to about 40°C (104°F) when tested using a sugar thermometer. Add the butter and stir until completely melted. For best results blend to create an emulsion.
Passionfruit curd
100 g/½ cup caster/granulated sugar
75 g/5 tablespoons butter
a pinch of salt
pulp and seeds of 8 passionfruits
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 egg yolks
Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.
Put the sugar, butter and salt into a heatproof bowl suspended over a pan of simmering water. Do not allow the underside of the bowl to come into contact with the water. When the butter has melted and the sugar is dissolved, add the passionfruit, beaten eggs and yolks. Continue to cook over a low heat stirring almost constantly until the curd is silky smooth, hot to the touch and has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from the heat and pass though a fine mesh sieve/strainer into a clean bowl. Cover the surface of the curd with clingfilm/plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming and leave to cool for 10 minutes.
Use immediately or pour the curd into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jams/jellies outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 2 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 weeks.
Lime and yuzu curd
2 tablespoons yuzu juice (available online or in good Japanese supermarkets)
zest and juice of 2 limes
3 egg yolks
100 g/½ cup golden caster/raw cane sugar
2 tablespoons butter, chilled and diced
Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.
Put the yuzu juice with the lime zest and juice in a pan set over a low heat and slowly bring to the boil.
Put the egg yolks and sugar in a large mixing bowl and whisk with a balloon whisk until it looks like the sugar has dissolved. Very slowly pour the boiled citrus juice into the mixing bowl, whisking constantly.
Pour the mixture back into the pan, set over medium heat and stir. It will start to thicken and resemble thick, glossy curd. Remove it from the heat and whisk in the butter, one piece at a time. Mix until all the butter has melted.
Use immediately or pour the curd into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jams/jellies outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 2 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 weeks.
Rhubarb jam
1 kg/2 lbs. 3 oz. pink rhubarb, trimmed into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces (trimmed weight)
1 kg/5 cups jam sugar
zest and juice of 1 lemon
a sugar thermometer
a chilled plate or saucer
Makes about 1 kg/2¼ lbs.
Tip the trimmed rhubarb into a large mixing bowl and add the sugar, lemon zest and juice and stir well to combine.
Cover the bowl with clingfilm/plastic wrap and leave for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight to allow the sugar to dissolve into the rhubarb juices. Stir the mixture a couple of times to speed the process along.
Scoop the fruit and all of the sugary juices into a pan and set over a medium heat. Stir to dissolve any remaining sugar and bring to the boil. Continue to cook at a fairly swift pace for 10–15 minutes until the rhubarb is really tender and the mixture has reached setting point – 112°C (234°F) – on a sugar thermometer.
To test for a set, drop ½ teaspoon of the mixture onto a chilled plate, leave it for 30 seconds, then gently push it with your fingertip. If it wrinkles then it is ready, if not, continue to cook the jam/jelly for another 2 minutes and test again.
Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 2–3 minutes before pouring into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the jam/jelly outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 6 months. Refrigerate once open and consume within 4 weeks.
Cherry compote
175 ml/scant ¾ cup red wine
juice of 1 orange plus 2 strips of peel
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
½ vanilla pod/bean, split
1 star anise
30 g/2½ tablespoons caster/granulated sugar
2 teaspoons cornflour/cornstarch
2 teaspoons Kirsch or cherry brandy
a 400-g/14-oz. can dark cherries in syrup, drained and patted dry
Makes 500 g/1¼ lbs.
Tip the red wine into a small pan, add the orange juice and orange peel, the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, vanilla pod/bean, star anise and sugar. Set over a medium heat stirring to dissolve the sugar. Bring to the boil and simmer gently until reduced to 3 tablespoons of thick syrup. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh sieve/strainer into a clean bowl to remove the spices and peel, then return the syrup to the pan.
In a small bowl, combine the cornflour/cornstarch with the Kirsch or cherry brandy and mix to a smooth paste. Spoon the paste into the red wine syrup and whisk to combine. Cook over a low–medium heat until thickened and glossy and you can no longer taste the cornflour/cornstarch. Add the cherries and cook for a further minute to break down the fruit slightly.
Remove the pan from the heat and cool completely before using. Store the compote in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Chocolate and espresso‘curd’
125 g/1 stick plus ¾ tablespoon butter, chilled and diced
50 ml/scant ¼ cup espresso
70 g/½ cup chopped dark/bittersweet chocolate (80%)
4 egg yolks
100 g/½ cup white sugar
Makes about 350 g/¾ lb.
Put the butter into a large mixing bowl, followed by the espresso and chopped chocolate. Suspend the bowl over a pan of simmering water and whisk the ingredients together. Add the egg yolks and sugar and stir continuously over the heat to combine. When the curd starts to leave a trail from the whisk this means it’s starting to cook through – you’ll find the edges cook first so run your whisk around the inside of the bowl to make sure it does not get too hot too quickly.
Pour a spoonful of the curd onto a plate and pop it into the fridge for a few minutes. When cool, run your finger through the middle of the curd and if it stays separate then it is cooked.
Use immediately or pour the curd into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the curd outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 1 week. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 days.
Chocolate and hazelnut spread
50 g/½ cup hazelnut paste
50 g/⅓ cup finely chopped milk/semi-sweet chocolate
50 g/⅓ cup finely chopped dark/bittersweet chocolate
100 ml/6 tablespoons double/heavy cream
30 ml/2 tablespoons hazelnut oil
Makes about 250 g/9 oz.
Put the cream and oil in a pan and set over a medium heat to warm through. Add all the chocolate. Stir to melt the chocolate and combine.
Blitz with a handheld electric blender before transferring to a sterilized glass jar.
Use immediately or pour the spread into sterilized glass jars. Secure the lid on tightly, turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely. This will create an airtight seal so you can store the spread outside of the fridge. Remember to label each jar so you know what you have and when you made it. Store in the cupboard for up to 1 week. Refrigerate once open and consume within 3 days.
VARIATION
Chocolate and pistachios also work incredibly well together and you can simply replace the hazelnut paste with pistachio purée/paste and use groundnut oil instead of the hazelnut oil.
Smoked salmon sandwiches
with whipped cream cheese
Roast beef sandwiches
Devilled egg mayonnaise
sandwiches with micro herbs
Cucumber sandwiches
with yuzu and chive butter
Classic scones
The Ritz London Fruited scones
Viennese whirls
Simple vanilla shortbreads
Cherry and almond Bakewell tarts
Chocolate and peanut butter délices
Victoria sponge with strawberry
jam and vanilla buttercream
Classic afternoon tea
Smoked salmon sandwiches with whipped cream cheese
Smoked salmon and cream cheese is one of those match-made-in-heaven combinations and by whipping the cream cheese a bit, the sandwich becomes delightfully light. The ultimate roast beef sandwich has to be made with thinly sliced, roast beef. With a horseradish and onion confit mayonnaise and crisp watercress it’s a proper British sandwich.
150 g/1 stick plus 2 tablespoons butter, softened
1 teaspoon lemon zest and 2 teaspoons juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
300 g/10 oz. cream cheese
8 thin slices brown bread
400 g/14 oz. thinly sliced smoked salmon
Makes 24
Beat the butter until really soft and spreadable, add the lemon zest and juice, season with salt and black pepper and mix in.
In another bowl beat the cream cheese with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until really light, season with black pepper and mix well.
Lay the bread out on the work