Travel Guide Costa Rica
By Mara Vorhees, Ashley Harrell, Robert Isenberg and
()
About this ebook
Lonely Planet's Costa Rica is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the country has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Trek through dense jungles in Parque Nacional Corcovado, swim under Montezuma Waterfalls and catch waves on Santa Teresa; all with your trusted travel companion.
Inside Lonely Planet's Costa Rica Travel Guide:
Lonely Planet's Top Picks - a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them
Itineraries help you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs and interests
Local insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - whether it's history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics
Eating and drinking - get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try
Toolkit - all of the planning tools for solo travelers, LGBTQIA+ travelers, family travelers and accessible travel
Colour maps and images throughout
Language - essential phrases and language tips
Covers San Jose, Central Valley, Highlands, Caribbean Coast, Northwestern Costa Rica, Arenal, Northern Lowlands, Peninsula de Nicoya, Central Pacific Coast, Southern Costa Rica, Peninsula de Osa, and more
About Lonely Planet:
Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures Company, is the world's number one travel guidebook brand. Providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973, Lonely Planet reaches hundreds of millions of travelers each year online and in print and helps them unlock amazing experiences. Visit us at lonelyplanet.com and join our community of followers on Facebook (facebook.com/lonelyplanet), Twitter (@lonelyplanet), Instagram (instagram.com/lonelyplanet), and TikTok (@lonelyplanet).
'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)
Mara Vorhees
Mara Vorhees, viajera-escritora, ha colaborado en docenas de títulos de Lonely Planet y publicado en medios como Delta Sky, BBC Travel, Vancouver Sun y el Boston Globe, entre otros. En 20 años de viajes por Costa Rica, Mara Vorhees ha visto 162 especies de aves, las cuatro especies de platirrinos de Costa Rica, osos hormigueros, perezosos, tapires, pecaríes, coatíes, agutíes, un kinkajú y un jaguarundí. Mara lleva viajando a Moscú desde que la ciudad era la capital de un país diferente. Cuando no está espiando a perezosos, vive en Somerville, Massachusetts, con su marido, sus dos hijos y sus dos gatos. Ahora viaja con sus gemelos de siete años (que adoran a los gatos de Kuklachev). Se pueden seguir sus aventuras enwww.havetwinswilltravel.com.
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Travel Guide Costa Rica - Mara Vorhees
COSTA RICA
MapHow To Use This eBookContents
Plan Your Trip
The Journey Begins Here
Costa Rica Map
Our Picks
Regions & Cities
Itineraries
When to Go
Get Prepared
The Food Scene
The Outdoors
The Guide
San José
Downtown San José
La Sabana & Around
Barrio Escalante, Los Yoses & San Pedro
Escazú & Santa Ana
Central Valley & the Highlands
Alajuela
Beyond Alajuela
Cartago
Beyond Cartago
Orosí Valley
Beyond Orosí Valley
Heredia
Beyond Heredia
Caribbean Coast
Tortuguero
Beyond Tortuguero
Puerto Limón
Beyond Puerto Limón
Cahuita
Beyond Cahuita
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
Beyond Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
Northwestern Costa Rica
Monteverde & Santa Elena
Beyond Monteverde & Santa Elena
Río Celeste
Beyond Río Celeste
Cañas
Beyond Cañas
Rincón de la Vieja
Beyond Rincón de la Vieja
Santa Rosa
Beyond Santa Rosa
Arenal & the Northern Lowlands
Volcán Arenal & La Fortuna
Beyond Volcán Arenal & La Fortuna
Sarapiquí
Beyond Sarapiquí
Refugio de Vida Silvestre Maquenque
Caño Negro
Península de Nicoya
Sámara
Beyond Sámara
Montezuma
Beyond Montezuma
Tamarindo
Beyond Tamarindo
Playa Conchal
Beyond Playa Conchal
Santa Teresa
Beyond Santa Teresa
Central Pacific Coast
Dominical
Beyond Dominical
Jacó
Beyond Jacó
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Beyond Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Uvita
Beyond Uvita
Southern Costa Rica & Península de Osa
Providencia de Dota
Beyond Providencia de Dota
San Gerardo de Rivas
Beyond San Gerardo de Rivas
Térraba
Beyond Térraba
Bahía Drake
Beyond Bahía Drake
Puerto Jiménez
Beyond Puerto Jiménez
Toolkit
Arriving
Getting Around
Money
Accommodations
Family Travel
Health & Safe Travel
Food & Drink
Responsible Travel
Accessible Travel
LGBTIQ+ Travelers
Nuts & Bolts
Language
Storybook
A History of Costa Rica in 15 Places
Meet the Costa Ricans
Paradise Found
The Nation Without an Army
This Book
COSTA RICA
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
jpgThree-toed sloth, Parque Nacional Tortuguero | Yvonne Kochanowski/shutterstock ©
In 25 years of traveling to Costa Rica, one of my favorite memories is from my first canal cruise to Tortuguero. We saw so many monkeys and sloths that I lost count; the birdlife was magnificent; the crocs were lined up on the bank. Just when I thought I had seen it all, we spotted a baby sloth that had fallen into the water and was being carried downstream by the current. Aware that the little guy would be swept right into a croc’s open mouth, the boat driver offered him a paddle. The sloth climbed right out and we gave him a lift to safety.
This incident captures so much of what I love about Costa Rica – not only the incredible, unexpected opportunities to see wildlife, but also the care and pride that Ticos demonstrate in protecting the natural world around them.
Mara Vorhees
havetwinswilltravel.com
Mara writes about travel and adventure around the world, especially Central America and the Caribbean, Eastern Europe, and her home in New England.
jpgMy favourite experience is spending the night in a treehouse at Maquenque Eco Lodge, a unique (and rather luxurious) way to be immersed in the rainforest and see loads of wildlife.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Costa Rica
jpgJurateBuiviene/shutterstock ©
On my first visit to Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean, I was enchanted by the sloth-like pace of existence. A subsequent journey included several gloriously carefree months in a jungle cabin near Playa Cocles.
jpgAshley Harrell
@where_smashley_went
Ashley is a California-based freelance journalist who writes about travel and the outdoors.
jpgMichal Sarauer/shutterstock ©
Volcán Irazú holds a special place in my heart. I have traveled there solo, with my wife, my parents, and with friends, but each visit feels unique. It’s always an adventure, and the view feels, in every way, transcendent.
jpgRobert Isenberg
robertisenberg.net
Robert is a writer and multimedia producer who lives in Rhode Island with his family.
jpgMihai-Bogdan Lazar/shutterstock ©
For me, Dominical is pura vida made solid in surf and sand, where I can kick back with a bowl of papaya, lime juice and sea salt and find total restoration.
jpgElizabeth Lavis
elizabethlavis.com
Elizabeth has lived and worked all over Costa Rica, Thailand and Georgia. You can read her work in HuffPost, Canadian Traveller and Lonely Planet titles.
jpgSimon Dannhauer/shutterstock ©
The forest, a small beach, the peaceful and warm ocean – just me and a feeling of complete peace. This is the southern Caribbean side of Costa Rica: my favorite place to visit!
jpgAlejandra Murillo
@spanishforexpats-cr.com @spanishschoolforresidents
Alejandra Murillo is a Spanish teacher and owner of the Spanish School for Residents and Expats.
jpgTeo Tarras/shutterstock ©
The incredibly biodiverse cloud forests of Southern Costa Rica are like magical worlds you might read about in a fantasy novel or see in a Pixar movie.
jpgJanna Zinzi
@wanderwomxntravels
Janna (jaz) is a travel and culture writer, and co-founder of WanderWomxn.
Country MapCreature Feature
From rainforest to cloud forest, from wetlands to dry tropical forest, Costa Rica harbors an incredible diversity of habitats – and a firm commitment to preserving them. As it turns out, preserving habitats goes a long way toward protecting the creatures that live there. Whether you take a dedicated wildlife tour, or just keep your eyes peeled as you’re out and about, you’ll encounter critters of all shapes and sizes.
jpgRed-eyed tree frog | Tyler Wenzel/shutterstock ©
Close-Up Views
Professional wildlife guides often travel with powerful spotting scopes so you can get a close-up view of your subject. You can even take photos through the scope!
jpgESOlex/Shutterstock ©
National Symbols
Four animals are official national symbols of Costa Rica: clay-colored thrush (yigüirro); white-tailed deer; West Indian manatee; and – as of 2021 – two-toed and three-toed sloth.
jpgColors and shapes of underwater world/getty images ©
Keep the Wildlife Wild
Never feed wild animals or try to lure them with food. Do not try to touch wild animals or take selfies with them.
Best Wildlife-Watching Experiences
mapSpend the night at Sirena Station in 1 Parque Nacional Corcovado for the country’s best wildlife watching, including threatened species like squirrel monkeys and Baird’s tapir.
Cruise the jungly canals at 2 Parque Nacional Tortuguero to see caimans, manatees and monkeys.
See migrating humpback whales and playful bottlenose dolphins from the shore at 3 Parque Nacional Marino Ballena.
Spy on colorful birds and mischievous monkeys from your terrace at a jungle ecolodge in 4 Sarapiquí.
Spot sloths, frogs and monkeys in wildlife reserves around 5 La Fortuna, then visit a rescue center to learn how to help protect them.
Misty Magic
On the slopes of the Cordillera de Tliarán, blanketing the mountains at altitudes of 1000m to 2500m, the tropical cloud forest is fantastic and phantasmic – shrouded in mist, draped with mossy vines and bursting with life. Hike to hidden waterfalls and hunt for rare bird species amid this unique landscape.
jpgSanta Elena canopy tour | Jan Csernoch/Alamy Stock Photo ©
Bird Guides
If you want to spot rare cloud-forest birds like the three-wattled bellbird or resplendent quetzal, it’s worth hiring a guide to show you the way.
Temperature Drop
Temperatures in the cloud forest are significantly cooler than at lower altitudes. Pack accordingly!
Best Cloud Forest Experiences
mapHike (or fly) through the clouds at Santa Elena’s highest-altitude 1 cloud forest reserves.
Follow the cloud-forest trails to Volcán Tenorio’s 2 Laguna Danta.
Walk to waterfalls and get lost in the clouds at 3 Cloudbridge Nature Reserve in San Gerardo de Rivas.
Climb through the cloud forest to the scrubby grassland of the páramo to reach the summit of 4 Cerro Chirripó.
Spot the replendent quetzal in the wild aguacate (avocado) trees around 5 Providencia de Dota.
Adrenaline Rush
Laced with waterways, Costa Rica is a rafter’s paradise, with rapids to suit all skill levels. The fantastic scenery, the spray and the heart-pounding whirl around the rocks make for quite the thrill ride. Other ways to take on the rapids are floating in inner tubes and paddling inflatable kayaks. Any way you ride, you’re guaranteed to get soaked.
Floating Safari
Many rafting companies offer wildlife-watching trips on gentler sections of the river – ideal for younger children and would-be naturalists.
jpgMarco Lissoni/shutterstock ©
White-Water Season
Generally speaking, heavy rains result in fast rivers, so the most challenging white-water rafting takes place toward the end of the rainy season.
jpgPafnuti/shutterstock ©
Rapid Rankings
Class I – mostly flat water
Class II – novice
Class III – intermediate
Class IV – advanced
Class V – difficult
Best White-Water Experiences
mapRide the 1 Río Sarapiquí from San Miguel to La Virgen for 15km of white-water delight.
Cruise over class III and IV rapids on the 2 Río Tenorio near Cañas and brave an outrageous 3m drop.
Raft in and raft out of the fantastic 3 Pacuare Lodge, with Class III-V rapids, amazing scenery and plenty of adventure along the way.
Take a tube to the 4 Río Colorado in Curubandé or the 4 Río Celeste in Bijagua for the perfect balance of rapids and relaxation.
Run the short but scenic rafting route on the Río Grande, through the verdant 5 Orosí Valley.
Volcano Power
In northern Costa Rica, the Cordillera de Guanacaste and the Cordillera Central are lined up in a row of hissing, sputtering, steaming volcanoes, bubbling with geothermic energy. Five of these mighty mountains are active volcanoes, but even the dormant ones show off their volcanic powers. Come to witness the tempestuous displays in the form of fumaroles, boiling mud pots and hot springs; or come to just soak up the earthly energy in thermal pools and admire the majestic mountain views.
jpgParque Nacional Volcán Poás | Wollertz/shutterstock ©
Hot Rivers
Most ‘hot springs’ are actually artificial pools with volcano-heated water pumped in. Only a few places have natural pools in geothermal hot rivers or hot springs.
jpgColor Chaser/Shutterstock ©
Active Volcanoes
An ‘active’ volcano is one that has a recent history of eruptions. Costa Rica’s five active volcanoes are Poás, Arenal, Rincón de la Vieja, Irazú and Turrialba.
jpgpiratedub/getty images ©
Words of Warning
Volcanoes are dangerous! Always comply with instructions and restrictions at national parks.
Best Volcano Experiences
mapPeer into the impressive caldera at 1 Parque Nacional Volcán Poás.
Arrive early to get a glimpse of the craters at 2 Volcán Irazú and to admire the shimmering turquoise crater lake.
Hike along old lava flows and soak in volcano-heated pools in the shadow of 3 Volcán Arenal.
Soak and swim in the beautiful natural pools of the thermal-heated river at 4 Río Perdido.
Witness live volcanic activity – hissing vents, steaming fumaroles, and bubbling pots – at Las Pailas sector of 5 Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja (followed by hot-spring soaking, of course).
Fab Falls
A sparkling cascade of water, cutting through the forest green and tumbling over the rocks, is always a sight to behold. In Costa Rica, there are too many cataratas (waterfalls) to count, each with its own appeal, whether an adventurous hike, a soothing soak, a dousing shower or just a spectacular scene.
jpgMontezuma Waterfalls | travelview/shutterstock ©
Jump with Caution
Always assess the safety of waterfall swimming – especially when jumping into pools – as rainfall and rocks can change the conditions.
Celestial Sight
Arguably, Catarata Río Celeste is the country’s most beautiful waterfall, due to its dreamy color, but swimming is prohibited in this true-blue beauty.
Best Waterfall Experiences
mapDiscover the cataratas of 1 Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco and swim at the Blue Falls of Costa Rica.
Go on a canyoneering expedition to discover the glorious 2 La Leona Waterfall.
Hike and swim and cliff-jump into the three-level 3 Montezuma Waterfalls.
Lounge in the lower pool and explore the upper falls at 4 Nauyaca Waterfalls.
Swim under three different rainforest falls – known as 5 Naguala Falls – along the Río Agujitas.
Sea Turtles
In Costa Rica, the four resident species of sea turtles put on a fascinating show, when the mothers return to their natal beaches to dig out their nests and lay their eggs; and again, weeks later, when the eggs hatch and the tortuguitas (baby turtles) scurry toward the sea.
Four Species, Two Coasts
The four species of sea turtles – olive ridley, green, leatherback and hawksbill – nest on both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts in different seasons.
jpgKryssia Campos/getty images ©
Guide Required
Always go with a trained and licensed naturalist guide when exploring turtle-nesting beaches.
jpgchrisontour84/shutterstock ©
In the Dark
Sea turtles depend on moonlight to find their natal beaches, so ambient light (including the use of flashlights) is extremely restricted in critical areas.
Best Sea Turtle Observation Experiences
mapWitness the amazing arribada, or arrival, of hundreds of nesting olive ridley turtles at 1 Playa Ostional near Nosara.
See olive ridleys and green turtles nesting at 2 Playa Buena Vista and 2 Playa Corozolito near Sámara.
Marvel at the massive leatherbacks that nest at 3 Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas near Playa Grande.
Look for all four species of sea turtles nesting and birthing on the beaches near 4 Parque Nacional Tortuguero, including the endangered green turtle.
Join the turtle patrol in the tiny fishing village of 5 Parismina to help protect nesting sea turtles.
Sweet Breaks
With nearly 1300km of tropical coastline, Costa Rica is a surfing mecca, attracting wave riders from all walks of life to its warm waters and big surf. Some famous spots are for experts only, while other more benign surf is better for beginners – and there’s plenty of reliably long and luscious waves for intermediate surfers. No matter where you choose to surf, you’ll find excellent instruction, world-class waves and irrepressible good vibes.
jpgSurfer, Playa Hermosa, Santa Teresa | Jorge A. Russell/shutterstock ©
Surf Pacifico
Find the biggest waves on the Pacific coast from May to October (though the surf is consistently good year-round and the dry season is better for beginners).
jpgLMspencer/Shutterstock ©
Surf Carib
The Caribbean beaches are great for surfing from November to May. During the peak tourist season, this is where you’ll find the biggest waves in the country.
jpgJorge A. Russell/shutterstock ©
Get the Gear
Surfboard rentals and lessons are available in all surf towns.
Best Surfing Experiences
mapHone your skills among the gentler waves and multiple surf schools near 1 Tamarindo.
Revel in the surf-perfect waves and surf-happy vibes in chic 2 Santa Teresa.
Head to either end of the pristine, forest-backed 3 Playa Grande to catch the famously reliable beach breaks.
Get off the beaten track and catch some waves at the wild beaches of 4 Cabo Matapalo on the Península de Osa.
Travel down the Caribbean coast to 5 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca for the seriously spicey sauce of Salsa Brava or friendlier waves at Playa Cocles.
Indigenous Culture
Costa Rica’s eight indigenous groups comprise only 2.4% of the population, mostly residing in dedicated territories (some very remote). To varying degrees, they continue to practice traditional ways of life, working to maintain the rich cultures that they have preserved for centuries. Some have embraced cultural tourism as a way to support their communities and cultures.
jpgMask carving, Boruca | Lindsay Fendt/Alamy Stock Photo ©
Guaymi
The Guaymi migrated from Panama in the 1960s. They are one of the only indigenous groups that still wear traditional clothing and speak their own language.
Cabécar
The largest indigenous group in Costa Rica is the Cabécar, numbering about 17,000, and residing in the remote Talamanca reserve in the southern Caribbean.
Best Indigenous Culture Experiences
mapTour a cacao farm in 1 Térraba to learn about the sacred role of this plant in Brörán culture.
Watch craftspeople carve the intricate masks worn at the Fiesta de los Diablitos in 2 Boruca.
Explore the 3 Parque Nacional Barbilla with an indigenous Cabécar hiking guide.
Paddle a dugout canoe to 4 Reserva Indígena Yorkín for an experience of Bribrí culture.
See a dance performance and sip fermented chicha at a Maleku culture demonstration in 5 La Fortuna.
Local Flavors
Traditional Tico fare revolves around rice and beans in various forms, but there’s plenty of culinary innovation happening here as well, thanks in part to the country’s international community. Considering the ingredients on hand – seafood from two oceans, farm-fresh produce, rich coffee and artisanal chocolate – it’s no surprise that the results are delicious.
Discovering Sodas
A small, family-run restaurant serving typical Costa Rican food is called a soda. This is an affordable place to fill up and get a taste of traditional food.
jpgphortun/shutterstock ©
Costa Rican Brews
Imperial and Pilsen are the main brands of Costa Rican beer, but discerning beer drinkers will also find craft breweries all over the country.
jpgLauren Squire/shuttetstock ©
A Cup of Joe
Coffee is an integral part of Costa Rican culture, and everybody drinks it – even small children, who take it with plenty of milk and sugar.
Best Food & Drink Experiences
mapDiscover the country’s most elevated cuisine in the bistros of 1 Barrio Escalante in San José.
Hang out with the hipsters in Heredia and feast on diverse and delectable eats at the 2 Mercado Gastronómico La Fortina.
Taste the spicy goodness of Creole and Caribbean cooking on a tour of traditional restaurants in 3 Puerto Limón.
Sample the best of modern Costa Rican cuisines in truly unique settings in 4 Monteverde and Santa Elena.
Harvest your own ingredients at a family farm and learn to cook delicious Costa Rican dishes in 5 La Fortuna.
Life in the Treetops
According to the World Bank, some 59% of territory in Costa Rica is covered by forest. That’s a lot of trees. So it goes without saying that untold activity takes place in the treetops. There are myriad ways to experience life at the canopy level, from hanging bridges to high-speed ziplines, from tree-climbing challenges to treehouse overnights. Take advantage of these unique opportunities to see the rainforest (or the cloud forest) from above.
jpgMistico Park Hanging Bridge, La Fortuna | Galyna Andrushko/shutterstock ©
Forest Facts
There are three types of forest in Costa Rica: tropical rainforest, tropical cloud forest and tropical dry forest.
jpgCampPhoto/Getty Images ©
Mighty Ceiba
The tallest tree in the rainforest is usually the ceiba tree (also called the kapok). The tallest specimens tower more than 60m high.
jpgValerija Polakovska/Shutterstock ©
Reforestation Success
The forest cover in Costa Rica has increased from 47% in 2000 to almost 60% in 2020 – a triumph of conservation and reforestation.
Best Treetop Experiences
mapTake it slow to spot amazing wildlife, or fast on a high-speed canopy ride, in Santa Elena’s 1 cloud-forest reserve.
Discover the rainforest canopy on a leisurely walk across hanging bridges or via an adrenaline-boosting zipline in 2 La Fortuna.
Spend the night 12m off the ground, in a luxurious little house, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the rainforest at 3 Maquenque Eco Lodge in Boca Tapada.
Climb to the top of a 40m strangler fig tree and take in the incredible view from the top at 4 Finca Modelo Ecológica in Santa Elena.
Ascend a 25m Nispero tree at 5 Nature Observatorio, near Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, for an incredible lookout over the forest canopy and Caribbean Sea.
Bygone Days
Historical sites may not be high on your list of places to go and things to see in Costa Rica. But history buffs will be surprised and delighted by this little country’s rich and diverse story – from pre-Columbian archeology to colonial architecture to battles to protect and preserve an independent Costa Rica.
jpgTeatro Nacional, San José | Mihai-Bogdan Lazar/shutterstock ©
Colonial Costa Rica
The historic centers of San José and Cartago contain the country’s best examples of colonial architecture and history.
Independent Costa Rica
Costa Rica (along with the rest of Central America) gained its independence in 1821, with Spain’s defeat in the Mexican War for Independence.
Best History Experiences
mapSee a show at the 1 Teatro Nacional in San José to ogle the art and architecture.
Descend into the Orosi Valley to explore the 2 ruins of Ujarrás and appreciate their colonial significance.
Discover the remains of an ancient city at the 3 Monumento Nacional Guayabo.
Tour the old homestead 4 La Casona at the Sector Santa Rosa to learn about the history of the hacienda.
Investigate the mysterious stone spheres and 5 Finca 6 near Sierpe.
Earthy Goodness
As many Tico farmers embrace organic agricultural practices, they are eager to show off how they work and what they have learned. All around the country, you are invited to tour family fincas (farms) to discover how small-time farmers are doing their part to save the planet (and how you can too).
Sustainable Agriculture
Implementing sustainable agricultural practices is considered a crucial step to achieving Costa Rica’s goal of carbon neutrality. Steps that promote sustainability include crop rotation, companion planting and composting.
jpgWirestock Creators/shutterstock ©
Land Use
In terms of land use, coffee is the most important crop in Costa Rica, followed by rice, bananas and sugar cane.
jpgVW Pics/getty images ©
Labor Force
Comprising 20% of the population, migrant workers from Nicaragua are the main source of labor in the agricultural sector, especially for sugarcane, coffee and pineapples.
Best Farm Experiences
mapTravel back in time to see historic processes for coffee production at 1 Hacienda La Chimba in Santa Ana.
Cruise a black-water canal to reach 2 Laguna 4, a secluded cattle ranch and produce farm near Tortuguero.
Spend a day around 3 Sarapiquí seeing (and tasting) the production of palmito (heart of palm), pineapple and chocolate.
Observe and participate in the entire process of coffee production – from picking the beans to sampling the beverage – at 4 Café de Monteverde.
See the inner workings of an organic farm at 5 Finca Köbö, which produces – among other fruits and veggies – cacao for chocolate production.
Beautiful Beaches
Some beaches are for surfing or snorkeling and some are for lounging luxuriously and soaking up some rays. Some beaches are wild and remote and pristine, while others are easy to access and equipped with amenities. In Costa Rica – with 1300km of coastline on two oceans – you are guaranteed to find a beach that suits your purposes. So be sure to build an adventure recovery day into your itinerary – and don’t forget to pack the sunblock.
jpgParque Nacional Marino Ballena | CL-Medien/shutterstock ©
Playas Rosas
Costa Rica has several beaches that appear pink in certain light. Check out Playa Conchal, Playa Flamingo and – wait for it – Playa Rosada (near Nosara).
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Playas Negras
Black-sand beaches result from deposits of volcanic material. Look for beaches with telltale names like Playa Negra (near Cahuita), Playa Coco and Playa Carbón (near Playa Grande).
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Playa San Juanillo
This hidden gem on the Península de Nicoya is a small peninsula that juts into the Pacific, with conjoining beaches facing both sides.
Best Beach Experiences
mapMarvel at the gorgeous white shells and turquoise waters of 1 Playa Conchal, just south of Brasilito.
Swim and snorkel at 2 Parque Nacional Marino Ballena – and don’t miss the sandbar appropriately shaped like a whale’s tail at low tide.
Find your own private patch of sand at one of the many locals-only beaches around the 3 Península de Santa Elena in Guanacaste.
Ride a bike south from 4 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca to discover a string of unique and beautiful beaches.
Tear yourself away from Playa Sámara to explore the tidal pools of 5 Playa Barrigona or the nearby palm-backed Playa Carillo.
REGIONS & CITIES
Find the places that tick all your boxes.
jpgITINERARIES
Costa Rican Classic
mapAllow: 10 days Distance: 600km
If it’s your first trip to Costa Rica, you can hit the country’s most famous destinations all in just over a week. Touch down in the edgy, artsy capital; explore the wilds and spy on creatures in both the rainforest and the cloud forest; and finish up with some well-earned beach time.
mapjpgReserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena | Yasemin Olgunoz Berber/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
1 San José 1 DAY
You might be tempted to skip a stop in San José, but this gritty city has plenty to offer. Spend a day exploring the excellent museums, eclectic art galleries and hipster clubs and cafes. This is also your chance to indulge in some of the country’s most innovative dining, before you head out into the land of rice and beans.
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2 Tortuguero 1 DAY
Journey up to the Caribbean coast to the tiny village of Tortuguero – and eponymous national park – to cruise the jungle-drenched canals in search of sloths, crocs, caimans, manatees, monkeys and more. Venture out after dark to witness the incredible ritual of sea-turtle reproduction, including (if you’re lucky) the scramble to the sea by newly hatched tortuguitas.
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3 Arenal & La Fortuna 3 days
In the shadow of Volcán Arenal, La Fortuna is a major activity center. Spend a day hiking (or biking or horseback riding) on the volcano slopes and soaking in hot springs. On subsequent days, there’s plenty more adventure on offer.
Detour: Take a daytrip to the lakeside village of El Castillo for hiking, farm tours and volcano views all around. 1 day
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4 Tilarán 1 DAY
You’ll skip this stop if you take the jeep-boat-jeep transfer (four hours) from La Fortuna to Monteverde (or if you hike!). But if you’re driving, Tilarán offers several options to break your trip with a wonderful waterfall hike. Here is the perfect opportunity to stop for lunch, stretch your legs and take a refreshing dip beneath a powerful shower.
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5 Monteverde & Santa Elena 2 DAYS
Feel the temperature drop and see the mist start to swirl as you climb into the Cordillera de Tilarán to Santa Elena. Spend one day at a cloud-forest reserve, either in Santa Elena or Monteverde. On your second day, you can climb a giant strangler fig, hike to hidden waterfalls or tour a sustainable coffee farm.
jpgYasemin Olgunoz Berber/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
6 Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 2 DAYS
Your final destination is Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, the country’s most visited national park. And for good reason. Here, you can hike through the rainforest to pristine beaches and spy on monkeys from the sand. Do it again on day two – or discover one of the many ‘secret’ beaches in the environs.
jpgSimon Dannhauer/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ITINERARIES
Caribbean Cruise
mapAllow: 4 days
Distance: 250km
You can pack a lot of enjoyment into a short time on the compact southern Caribbean coast. After a few days of thrill-riding on the Río Pacuare, you’ll find your way to the Caribbean blue, where Afro-Caribbean vibes and indigenous culture take over the rugged streets and jungle-backed beaches.
mapjpgManzanillo | Damsea/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
1 SAN JOSé
Fly into San José for easiest access to the Caribbean coast. But if you’re short on time, you can skip the stop in the capital and make a beeline for your first destination.
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2 Río Pacuare 2 DAYS
On your way to the Caribbean coast, psyche yourself up for a wild river-rafting trip on the Río Pacuare, ideally with an overnight stay at the fabulous Pacuare Lodge. Get ready for Class III-IV rapids, with plenty of stunning scenery and swim breaks along the way. After your stay, the shuttle service can deposit you anywhere on the Caribbean coast.
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3 Cahuita 1 DAY
Spend the next few days exploring the wild and jungly southern Caribbean coastline, starting in the chilled-out village of Cahuita. By day, hike and snorkel in Parque Nacional Cahuita to marvel at the vast variety of life. By night, feast on grilled seafood and spicy Caribbean fare, jam to reggae and calypso beats, and soak up the Caribbean vibe.
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4 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 1 DAY
You’ve earned some down time, so continue south to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, where you can take your pick from half a dozen glorious palm-dotted beaches. If you can’t decide, rent a bicycle cruiser and spend a day beach-hopping, from Playa Cocles to Manzanillo, with a final stop for nourishment at Cool & Calm Cafe.
jpgSimon Dannhauer/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ITINERARIES
Northern Meander
mapAllow: 7 days Distance: 350km
In northern Costa Rica, you can experience an impressive variety of habitats within a relatively short distance. Cut across the top of the country and travel from cloud forest to rainforest to wetlands to beach, with plenty of creature encounters and other adventures along the way.
mapjpgRío Celeste | Matteo Colombo/getty images ©
1 Volcán Poás 1 DAY
Fly into San José airport for your first destination at Volcán Poás, an active volcano with a steaming crater lake. Get an early start for better chances of getting a clear view of the crater. Afterwards, there are hiking trails through the cloud forest to Botos Lagoon in the extinct crater nearby.
jpgSimon Dannhauer/shutterstock ©
2 Sarapiquí 1 DAY
Spend the night at an ecolodge in Sarapiquí on the edge of Parque Nacional Braulio Carillo. If you have the energy, take a night tour to spot bugs, bats, frogs, snakes and maybe even a kinkajou. By day, ride the rapids on the Río Sarapiquí or do a floating safari to spot wildlife along the Río Puerto Viejo.
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3 Arenal & La Fortuna 2 DAYS
La Fortuna is a tourist hub with countless adventures on offer. If you only have a few days here, be sure to spend one of them hiking the lava flows and soaking in the hot springs on the slopes of Volcán Arenal. Dedicate your second day to wildlife-watching, waterfall rappelling or exploring the rainforest canopy.
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4 Caño Negro 1 DAY
Travel north – almost to the Nicaraguan border – to Caño Negro, fishing village and wildlife refuge, home to diverse and abundant bird life (not to mention caimans, monkeys and sloths). If possible, spend the night at an area ecolodge so you can take a boat tour early in the morning, when the animals are most active.
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5 Río Celeste 1 DAY
You could easily spend several days exploring the farms and forests of Río Celeste. If you only have one day, you should go to the Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio: hike the trails and ogle the iconic ethereal blue waterfall; or hire a guide for the challenging hike through the cloud forest to the crater lake Laguna Danta.
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6 Playa Conchal 1 DAY
At last, you can spend a day relaxing on the beach at Playa Conchal. You might want to snorkel off the beach, book a tour for spearfishing or investigate the nearby deserted beaches. Or, just plant yourself on the sand with toes in water and cocktail in hand.
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ITINERARIES
Pacific Surf Tour
mapAllow: 10 days Distance: 460km
Here’s an overview of Costa Rica’s epic Pacific coast surf, from easy-does-it Tamarindo all the way down to the daunting waves of Dominical. Besides the surf, there are yoga classes, waterfall hikes, turtle-nesting areas, tantalizing restaurants and beachy party scenes.
mapjpgJacó | GROGL/shutterstock ©
1 LIBERIA
Liberia International Airport is the easiest arrival point to access these northern Pacific beaches. No need to spend the night in town: you can drive, bus or shuttle straight to your first destination in just over an hour.
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2 Tamarindo 2 DAYS
Surf all day and party all night in the lively beach town of Tamarindo. This city beach is great for beginners, thanks to easy waves and plentiful surf schools. More experienced wave-riders might prefer the challenging surf and more pristine beach at nearby Playa Grande. Come back at night to spy nesting leatherback turtles.
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3 Nosara 2 DAYS
Surf town and yogi haven, Nosara is spread out along three beaches. Playa Guiones is the best bet for surfing, although these swells are not for novices. When you’re not surfing, you can recover in a yoga class.
Detour: Take an evening side-trip to Playa Ostional to marvel at the arribada (arrival) of bales of olive ridley turtles. 4 hours
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4 Santa Teresa 2 DAYS
It’s not easy to get to Santa Teresa, but it’s worth the trip for the miles-long strip of sand, with consistent swells and beach breaks all along (and varying degrees of difficulty at four different beaches).
Detour: Take a break from the waves to sail to Isla Tortuga, hike in Cabo Blanco or explore the nearby village of Montezuma. 1 day
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5 Jacó 2 DAYS
Take the ferry from Paquera to Puntarenas to reach the mainland. If you don’t have a vehicle, you can take a boat taxi directly from Santa Teresa to Jacó for gentle, surfable swells, top-notch food and party vibes.
Detour: Head to nearby Playa Hermosa to spend a few hours riding more challenging waves or catching the local Saturday surf competition. 4 hours
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6 Dominical 2 DAYS
Your final destination is Dominical, a laid-back hippy village with incredible surf, rough roads and an old-timey Tico vibe. Test your skills on the intermediate surf at Playa Dominical, as well as nearby breaks at Dominicalito and Domi’s Playa Hermosa. When you tire of surfing, there are waterfalls to swim, mangroves to kayak and treehouse breweries to visit.
jpgGianfranco Vivi/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
Southern Exposure
mapAllow: 7 days
Distance: 350km
Explore the ‘southern sector’ to discover some of Costa Rica’s most enticing and least visited destinations. Heading south from San José, you’ll delight in verdant valleys, enchanting mountain villages and sweet beach retreats. And waterfalls. Everywhere, there are waterfalls.
mapjpgCerro Chirripó | Gianfranco Vivi/shutterstock ©
1 Orosí Valley 1 DAY
From San José, make your way to the picturesque Orosí Valley, a peaceful and somewhat unheralded destination. Spend the day hiking to waterfalls and admiring the colonial architecture (and ruins thereof), before immersing yourself into thermal pools for a soothing soak. Don’t leave the valley without sampling the local coffee.
jpgMario Wong Pastor/shutterstock ©
2 Providencia de Dota 1 DAY
Birders and fishers should stop in Providencia de Dota, a delightful village in the highlands of the Cordillera de Talamanca, where clouds swirl about the mountaintops and trout jump in the rivers. Here, you’ll find more delicious coffee and more waterfall hikes. Most importantly, you’ll find the elusive resplendent quetzal, the rare and beautiful bird that inspired indigenous deities.
3 San Gerardo de Rivas 1 DAY
Another cloud-shrouded mountain village, San Gerardo de Rivas is the starting point for the two-day climb to the summit of Cerro Chirripó. But even if you’re not undertaking that hardcore hike, it is lovely to spend a day wandering among the waterfalls and spotting birds at Cloudbridge Nature Reserve.
4 Uvita 1 DAY
Come out of the mountains and head to the coast. Your next destination is Uvita for a day of whale watching and waterfall hiking at Parque Nacional Marino Ballenas, or kayaking around sea caves at Playa Ventanas.
Extension: Don’t miss the chance to spend the night in Ojochal , where you’ll find fine dining and wonderful jungle guesthouses. 1 night
5 Sierpe 1 DAY
You’ll have to stop in the sleepy village of Sierpe to catch the boat to Bahía Drake. Before departure, check out the mysterious Diquís spheres, crafted by ancient indigenous peoples and now on display at Finca 6. Your boat ride is a cruise through mangrove swamps, a rare and rich habitat for birds, fish and other creatures.
jpgLOUIS-MICHEL DESERT/shutterstock ©
6 Bahia Drake 2 DAYS
In two days, you will only begin to discover Bahía Drake, a wild and wonderful place replete with rainforest and beach activities. Explore the magnificent coastline, pausing to investigate rainforest trails, spy on sloths and monkeys, lounge on empty beaches and dip in turquoise waters.
Detour: