Lonely Planet Pocket Bangkok

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Our Picks

Three Perfect Days

Get Prepared

When To Go

Getting There

Getting Around

A Few Surprises

Explore Bangkok

Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi

Banglamphu

Chinatown

Siam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewil

Riverside, Silom & Lumphini

Thanon Sukhumvit

Top Experiences

Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

Wat Pho

Wat Arun

Golden Mount & Wat Saket

Thanon Khao San

Wat Traimit

CentralWorld

MBK Center

Jim Thompson House

Lumphini Park

Mandarin Oriental

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Kamthieng House

Bangkok Toolkit

Family Travel

Accommodation

Food, Drink & Nightlife

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Health & Safe Travel

Responsible Travel

Accessible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Language

This Book

The Journey Begins Here

Thailand’s capital often gets judgmental treatment: it’s ‘too busy’, ‘too crowded’ and ‘not sandy enough’. Yet, such narrow-mindedness fails to realise that Bangkok’s ‘too much-ness’ presents incredible (and often overlooked) depths to explore.

The city’s pressurised atmosphere creates powerful hidden gems truly unique to Southeast Asia, from brilliant creative scenes to crafty subcultures. You’ll find, the more time you carve out in Bangkok, the more obsessed with its sparkle you’ll become.

Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen Temple and Buddha statue | KIKUJUNGBOY CC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Barbara Woolsey

@xo_babxi

Since 2013, Barbara has been living between Bangkok and Berlin, writing guidebooks and performing as a DJ throughout wider Thailand and Germany.

THE BEST

Foodie Experiences

Nowhere will you find Thai food more gloriously revered and represented than on the streets of Bangkok. From street corners to sprawling food markets, vendors are ubiquitous, and snacking to your stomach’s content makes for all-day gluttony sprees.

Th Yarowarat | ANANSING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Graze the Thai–Chinese stands and kitchens in Chinatown’s Th Yaowarat to savour the ‘who’s who’ of classic dishes and family recipes.

LECKER STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Make an early trip to Khlong Toey Market to explore where Bangkok’s chefs and street vendors source ingredients.

Dine at iconic Methavalai Sorndaeng and soak up its 60-year cultural legacy.

ROOM98/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Satisfy every craving for Thai food on Th Convent – one of Bangkok’s best spots for street food; all the sizzling classics are here.

Feast your eyes on (and open your wallet for) Bangkok’s most over-the-top food court: Sook at Iconsiam is where you’ll find the most gigantic, carnivorous treats.

THE BEST

Under-the-Radar Experiences

Bangkok offers kooky, offbeat and alternative culture in spades – just ask the locals, who deftly avoid the tourist trails. Let curiosity lead you to a discerning, less-discovered side of the capital, from little-told history to obscure shopping.

Chaloemla Park | NEWKRON201/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Be mystified by sacred talismans at the Amulet Market . This fascinating market is only a few minutes’ walk from Thanon Khao San.

PKITTIWONGSAKUL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Book a free tour at the Museum of Counterfeit Goods. It’s fun but also teaches you how to suss out fakes.

Check out the graffiti in Chaloemla Park. This gritty spot, in the heart of the shopping area, provides reprieve from mall madness.

CHUCHAWAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

View Sathorn Unique Tower (from a distance). The abandoned skyscraper has a ghostly past but is banned to the public due to the extremely dangerous conditions inside the building.

Wander Sampeng Lane – a cheaper, more local shopping alternative to Chatuchak. Knick-knack shops and traditional gem-dealers abound.

THE BEST

Shopping Experiences

Hardly a street corner of the capital is free from a vendor or mall, and it doesn’t stop there. Even avowed anti-consumerists can’t deny that in Bangkok, shopping is essentially a cultural experience.

Chatuchak Weekend Market | MICHAELNERO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Evaluate the latest streetwear trends the Thai youths are purchasing at Siam Square – and the well-established, independent Thai designers they’re scouting at neighbouring Siam Center.

KEVIN HELLON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Relish the wildly diverse offerings and hectic atmosphere of Sampeng Lane, a Chinese open-air market delighting tourists and locals alike.

Get lost in the retail jungle of Chatuchak Weekend Market. This enormous market is an essential visit.

WITHGOD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Shop fair-trade souvenirs at Doi Tung. The royally sponsored shop in Siam Discovery sells carpets, ceramics and more.

Peruse high-end fashion at Iconsiam. Bangkok’s glitziest mall doesn’t disappoint for bold, eye-catching designs – and price tags.

THE BEST

Hipster Experiences

Bangkok’s thriving counterculture scene beckons with eclectic cafes, contemporary galleries and trendy boutiques repurposed from historic shophouses and warehouses. Here, everything old and disused is becoming beautifully new and beloved once again.

SUMETH ANU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Go bar-hopping across the speakeasies of Soi Nana. In former shophouses, cocktail bars like Teens of Thailand serve the city’s most trendy sips.

Linger under Bodhi trees and stroll boutiques around The Jam Factory. Warehouses have become a stunning creative hub.

Go on an antique vision-quest in OP Place. The all-white, 1908 building specialises in upscale curios.

SOMBAT MUYCHEEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

In Chinatown’s Talat Noi – the old port area – explore colourful alleyways packed with charming cafes and restaurants blending old and new styles.

Get to know artsy locals at WTF, one of Thong Lo’s most popular haunts with Bangkokians, and chat over art exhibits, poetry and Spanish nibbles.

THE BEST

Sacred Experiences

Bangkok is home to Thailand’s most famous temples. These grand, holy sites, adorned in majestic gold and filled with revered artefacts, speak volumes about local Buddhist culture. They are important places of tradition that thrive with monastic rituals.

Erawan Shrine | 2P2PLAY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pray for a miracle at the Erawan Shrine. After all, many worshippers claim to have had one come true here.

Marvel at the colourful and culturally anecdotal Sri Mariamman Temple. This is Bangkok’s main Hindu temple, and it’s truly akin to a work of art.

Take in one of Thailand’s largest Buddhas in Wat Suthat. While the nearly 8m statue is the headliner, the floor-to-ceiling temple murals also impress.

Watch the exterior of Wat Arun sparkle and shine by sunrise – or see it resplendent from over the river at nightfall

Discover what hectic, smoky, noisy, Chinese-style Buddhist temples are all about at Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. This lively treasure really delivers.

THE BEST

Waterway Experiences

Bangkok’s waterways, from Chao Phraya River to labyrinthine canal networks, weave together tradition and modernity. They shape a harmonious cityscape both old and new.

Chao Phraya Express Boat | DENIS COSTILLE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Chao Phraya Express Boat is a steady way to get around the older parts of the city – and you’ll avail of well-priced waterborne sightseeing.

Embrace serenity at Phra Sumen Fort & Santi Chai Prakan Park. Once a sugar factory, this historic site is now a riverside community park.

In Bangkok’s Old Town, sip top-notch cocktails on rooftop joints like Eagle Nest Bar with great river views.

Chao Phraya panoramas with glam vibes, anyone? Whether you’re just visiting or spending the night, head to the resplendent Mandarin Oriental on a beautifully carved teak boat from Sathorn/Central Pier.

Explore the artisan canalside community of Baan Khrua, which has been historically Muslim. The traditional silk-weaving families here are behind Jim Thompson’s legendary success.

Best for Kids

At Hero City, the 7th-floor arcade centre at MBK Center you can play racing games and air hockey and sing karaoke, and get into Sega’s trendy (and hypnotising) MaiMai machines.

CentralWorld is a family funfair of a mall. It boasts laser tag and a gigantic, year-round, indoor skating-rink with plenty of protective equipment for little ones (and blading newbies).

Check out the highly engaging exhibits at Museum Siam . Multimedia displays on Thai history and culture will keep the kids engrossed and the adults away from boredom.

Shop, stroll and snack at Asiatique , Bangkok’s most kid-friendly night market, which boasts a 60m-high Ferris wheel.

At Bangkok’s Lumphini Park , hit the lake on kayaks, paddle boats and plastic swan boats. The activities are endless here.

Best for Free

Discover an oft-overlooked era of local history at the early-20th-century wooden bungalows and shophouses of the Bangkokian Museum.

Browse endless vendor labyrinths from the chaos of Chatuchak Weekend Market , the world’s largest open-air bazaar, at the truly local food-sourcing extravaganza that is the Khlong Toey Market.

Score stunning views across old Bangkok from Golden Mount . Visit during the annual Wat Saket Fair (October/November) for a carnival atmosphere.

Explore endless eye candy across three stories of boutiques and galleries at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre – and maybe even catch a free cultural performance.

Relish the archives and creative spaces of the Thailand Creative & Design Center . The art-deco building is an architectural marvel with modern, restored interiors.

Three Perfect Days

So much to do, so little time – Bangkok’s endless offerings can easily get head-spinning. Overall, it’s best to have a light game-plan while staying open to spontaneity. That’s when the capital really shines.

Golden Mount | SURACHET KHAMSUK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAY ONE

Only Have One Day?

Morning

Start early to beat the crowds when exploring Bangkok’s historic heart: catch Wat Arun’s sparkling sunrise, and wander the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.

Afternoon

Grab lunch near Th Phra Athit or at Chinatown’s Th Yaowarat. Head to the historic, achingly cool and mural-packed Talat Noi neighbourhood, or to evocative shopping spots like the Amulet Market or the open-air market of Sampeng Lane.

Evening

Before it gets dark, set yourself up for a beautiful sunset while ascending the steps of the Golden Mount temple, or relax on a Silom rooftop bar like HI-SO. With energy to spare, wine and dine on Soi Nana.

GNES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAY TWO

A Weekend Trip

Morning

Take the BTS or the MRT north to Chatuchak Weekend Market, paired with a snacking stop at Or Tor Kor Market.

Afternoon

Escape the heat and weekend crowds with a ticketed cultural experience like the Jim Thompson House, followed by some wandering around the historic canalside community of Baan Khrua.

Evening

Savour the river’s relaxed, breezy atmosphere with dinner at one of the Mandarin Oriental’s restaurants, such as Sala Rim Naam or Le Normandie (book ahead). Head to Bamboo Bar for live jazz, or dance the night away on Th Sukhumvit at Sing Sing Theater or Beam.

SUN_SHINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAY THREE

A Short Break

Morning

Start the day early with breakfast in an air-conditioned cafe on Th Suan Phlu, or snack along Th Convent, one of Bangkok’s best street-food destinations. Take a leisurely stroll through Lumphini Park, eye-spying the aerobics and t’ai chi groups.

Afternoon

Let the OneSiam Skywalk escort you around the shopping centres of this ultra-modern commercial district, including the legendary Siam Square. Make a pitstop at the Erawan Shrine to pay your respects.

Evening

Indulge in an old Chinatown opium den, transformed into a modern, fine-dining haunt, at Potong, or feast on fish cooked to perfection at T & K Seafood.

CHATNARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Get Prepared

Book Ahead

One month before Make reservations at fine-dining restaurants; if you plan to stay longer than 30 days, apply for a visa in your home country.

One week before Book lessons at a Thai cooking school, such as Maliwan Thai Cooking Class.

Three months beforeBook a room at smaller boutique hotels, especially in December and January.

Manners Matter

Thai cultural etiquette centres on respect. Most social conventions are common sense, like giving monks and the elderly the right of way – but some Buddhist taboos may be unfamiliar, such as never touching a child’s head, never touching a monk if you’re female, and never pointing your feet at holy items.

Thais are generally understanding and hospitable – they prefer to smile and be civil, even in disagreements. Don’t raise your voice or gesture angrily.

Temple Etiquette

Temples are symbols of both royalty and religion – two fundamental elements of Thai society – so visit them respectfully. That means not posing for photos with your head positioned above Buddha statues, or in the