Lonely Planet Kyoto

KYOTO

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Our Picks

Perfect Days

When to Go

Get Prepared for Kyoto

Dining Out

Bar Open

Showtime

Treasure Hunt

Temples & Shrines

The Guide

Neighbourhoods at a Glance

Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

Downtown Kyoto

Imperial Palace & Around

Gion & Southern Higashiyama

Northern Higashiyama

Northwest Kyoto

Arashiyama & Sagano

Day Trips from Kyoto

Toolkit

Arriving

Money

Getting Around

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Overtourism

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of Kyoto in 15 Places

Meet the Kyotoites

The Seasons in Kyoto Culture

Rocks & Raked Sand: A Garden Guide

Levelling Up: Kyoto & the Making of Mario

Traditional Arts & Crafts

This Book

KYOTO

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Sannen-zaka | Guitar photographer/Shutterstock ©

Japan’s capital city for more than a thousand years, Kyoto was not only the centre for politics and the imperial court, but also art, religion, cuisine, philosophy and culture. Packed with over 2000 temples and shrines, the city feels like one great big World Heritage Site, and there is so much to see and do that you would need a lifetime to experience all that is on offer.

But despite the history seeping from its pores, Kyoto somehow never feels like a relic. On the contrary, there is a spirit of fresh thinking and vibrant creativity that runs through Kyoto’s very core, evident in all of the tiny boutique art galleries, artisan workshops and stylish cafes to be found down almost every street – the mishmash of modernity and old-school tradition only adds to the never-ending allure of Japan’s cultural capital.

Tom Fay

@tomfay.jp / @T_in_Japan

Tom is a British travel and outdoors writer who has been living in Japan since 2007 and is based in rural Kyoto.

My favourite experience is wandering along Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka and exploring the backstreets leading towards Kiyomizu-dera; there are few places that are more brilliantly atmospheric or evocative of ‘old Japan’.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places that, for them, define Kyoto

Jonathan Gregson/Lonely Planet ©

Picking just one favourite place in Kyoto is close to impossible, but revisiting Myōshin-ji for this book was one of the standouts. With its peaceful collection of sub-temples and walled pathways, it always feels like entering another world. Yet, like Kyoto’s other traditions, it’s not entirely removed from the present day: you might see people taking their dogs on walks through the grounds or even groups of nursery kids running about on playtime.

Rob Goss

@robgosswriter

Rob is a Tokyo-based writer and author focusing on travel and culture in Japan for media around the world.

Stray Toki/Shutterstock ©

Ōkōchi Sansō breaks the mould of Kyoto’s gardens because it’s not attached to a temple or an imperial villa. This hillside nirvana was created by a movie star, Ōkōchi Denjirō, who played a sword-swinging samurai in over 200 films between the 1920s and 1960s. The Arashiyama crowds tend to bypass his creation, leaving it wonderfully free of visitors. A stepped path winds through the garden revealing new vistas at every turn, and you can finish at a teahouse for a cuppa. Wonderful.

Thomas O’Malley

tomfreelance.com

Thomas is an East Asia specialist and the author of over a dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks.

ICONS OF THE CITY

Nestled in a compact basin with steep mountains hemming it in on three sides, Kyoto is a richly storied city packed to the brim with interesting sights and famous spots. This is the Japan of wood-block prints and old samurai movies, where geisha float down lantern-lit streets, but there are striking modern landmarks too – it is this juxtaposition that helps to make Kyoto such a fascinating destination.

Plan Your Trip

Unless you are staying in Kyoto for a long time, choose the sights carefully and savour your visits there, rather than rushing to cram everything in.

Jonathan Gregson/Lonely Planet ©

Time It Right

Many of the most scenic spots are almost deserted early in the morning or late at night, and tend to be wonderfully atmospheric at these times too.

Sean Pavone/Shutterstock ©

National Holidays

Kyoto can be packed at any time, but try to avoid Golden Week and national holidays when half of Japan seems to decamp to the city.

Maiko (apprentice geisha) | Patrick Foto/Shutterstock ©

MOST ICONIC EXPERIENCES

Traipse through the corridors of stately Nijō-jō 1 and be transported back to feudal-era Kyoto.

Go for an evening stroll and do some geisha-spotting in Gion 2, Kyoto’s lovingly preserved traditional entertainment district.

Marvel at the towering red torii gate and colourful buildings of Heian-jingū 3, Kyoto’s most striking Shintō shrine.

Cross the iconic ‘moon-viewing’ bridge and wander up to the otherworldly Arashiyama Bamboo Grove 4.

Get a bird’s-eye view of the city from Kyoto Tower 5 from where you can study the controversial contemporary pizzazz of nearby Kyoto Station.

CITY OF GARDENS

The stunning temples and shrines of Kyoto, while undoubtedly impressive feats of architecture in their own right, often owe much of their visual impact and beauty to the carefully landscaped gardens that frame them so perfectly. These masterpieces of moss, rocks and flora are not only carefully designed for their visual appeal, but are also imbued with deeper layers of meaning, giving visitors something to contemplate beyond the obvious nature-inspired forms. There are thousands of them in the city.

Entry Fees

Even if the temple grounds are free, most gardens require a small extra fee to enter, usually around ¥500 or so.

Photos from Japan, Asia and othe of the world/Getty Images ©

Autumn Colours

In around late November when the maples are burning red, yellow and gold, expect crowds at the most popular gardens such as Ginkaku-ji (pictured).

Sean Pavone/Shutterstock ©

Garden Types

Kyoto is home to gardens of all kinds: karesansui are dry rock (Zen Buddhist) gardens, cha-niwa are tea gardens and there are tsubo-niwa (indoor gardens).

Rock garden, Ryōan-ji | Sean Pavone/Shutterstock ©

BEST GARDEN EXPERIENCES

Kyoto’s most famous rock garden, Ryōan-ji 1 is a place for contemplation as you ponder the meaning of its 15 mystical rocks.

The beautiful temple grounds of Tōfuku-ji 2 are home to an abstract expressionist garden that is unlike any other in the city.

Nicknamed Koke-dera (the Moss Garden), Saihō-ji 3 is a verdantly green oasis and one of the city’s best gardens.

The gardens of Ginkaku-ji 4 offer a little of every-thing, including a bamboo grove, pond, waterfall and luxuriant carpets of moss.

Kyoto Botanical Gardens 5 are a place to escape the crowds and find some-thing in bloom no matter the season.

FOODIE HEAVEN

Kyoto has a rich foodie heritage. Called kyō-ryōri, the principles of Kyoto cooking focus on seasonality and fresh local produce, and this dates back to the imperial courts of the Heian period, where only the finest ingredients and presentation would do. The vegetarian Zen Buddhist diet also influenced things, but today you can find far heartier fare and a plethora of restaurants ranging from cheap eats to Michelin-starred establishments at the cutting edge of Japanese cuisine.

Haute Cuisine

Kaiseki is Kyoto’s celebrated form of culinary art; these multi-course banquets focus heavily on seasonal ingredients, with the presentation and setting as important as the food.

mnimage/Shutterstock ©

Local Specialities

Shōjin-ryōri is the traditional vegetarian fare of Buddhist monks; obanzai-ryōri incorporates simple ingredients in a home-cooked style; and specialist tofu restaurants are a Kyoto mainstay.

bonchan/Shutterstock ©

Where to Eat

Downtown Kyoto is the place to head for the widest selection of restaurants, although almost every neighbourhood is home to genuinely excellent establishments.

Sashimi, Kikunoi Roan | Lottie Davies/Lonely Planet ©

BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES

Indulge in an exquisite kaiseki multi-dish banquet at Kikunoi Honten 1, where every bite is a sensory experience to savour.

Try a tofu-themed lunch set and admire the stunning Zen garden at Yudōfu Sagano 2 in Arashiyama.

Slurp down thick udon noodles served in hot or cold broth at Omen 3, a short hop from Ginkaku-ji.

Head for lunch at Yoshi-kawa 4, a rustic ryokan restaurant serving the best tempura in all of Kyoto.

Queue up for some of Kyoto’s best ramen served in a rich pork-based broth at Ippūdo 5.

MARVELLOUS MUSEUMS

Kyoto isn’t all about temples, shrines, tea ceremonies and fancy food. You can also find some excellent museums and art galleries, showcasing cultural and historic treasures from Kyoto’s storied past, plus more quirky exhibitions that are sure to delight young and old alike.

Kimono demonstration, Nishijin Textile Centre | B.S.P.I./getty images ©

Discount Pass

If you plan on visiting numerous museums consider the Gurrutto Pass Kansai, which grants entry to many museums in the region for ¥1200.

Opening Times

Most museums are open from around 10am to 4pm, and many are closed on Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a national holiday).

BEST MUSEUM EXPERIENCES

Browse the extensive collections and stunning wonders of Japan’s artistic heritage at the Kyoto National Museum 1.

Delve into the world of Japanese comics at the Kyoto International Manga Museum 2, with its special exhibitions and resident artists.

Admire the world-class collections of hanging scrolls, decorative folding screens and other art work at the architecturally-stunning Fukuda Art Museum 3.

Learn all about kimonos and fabrics at Nishijin Textile Centre 4, where you can get hands-on and watch a kimono fashion show.

Sneak into a world of ninja and samurai in Downtown Kyoto, and learn to throw shuriken at Samurai Ninja Museum Kyoto 5.

KYOTO WITH KIDS

Japan is safe and welcoming to kids, and Kyoto is no different, with plenty of things to keep them occupied. While the finer charms of the city’s temples and shrines may be lost on little ones, their grounds and gardens can be fun to explore, and child-friendly attractions are not in short supply either.

Eating Out

Kaiseki and some local fare may not be to all tastes, but ‘family restaurants’ such as Saizeriya offer Western-style dishes and some places have kids menus.

StreetVJ/Shutterstock ©

Getting Around

Some temples and shrines can be tricky with strollers. Children under six ride trains for free, while those up to 12 pay half the adult fare.

cowardlion/Shutterstock ©

Outdoor Fun

Kids who like running around will enjoy Kyoto’s parks and outdoorsy shrines such as Fushimi Inari-Taisha. The Kamo-gawa is a popular river for summertime splashing.

BEST KID-FRIENDLY EXPERIENCES

Train-crazy kids (and like-minded adults) will love the vintage locomotives and recently retired engines at the multi-floored and interactive Kyoto Railway Museum 1.

Be entranced by all manner of mesmerising shapes and colours at the mini-treasure trove that is the Kaleidoscope Museum of Kyoto 2.

Explore the mocked-up streets and movie sets of TŌEI Kyoto Studio Park 3, a small Edo-inspired theme park packed with plenty of family-friendly attractions

Hike up to Arashiyama Monkey Park 4, the hilltop nature reserve where monkeys and humans roam freely, with only the latter caged in for feeding.

While away a few happy hours around Okazaki Park 5, a popular park in Northern Higashi-yama with a playground, zoo, playing fields and a couple of museums.

CULTURAL PLAYGROUND

Few other cities in the world pack in as much culture heritage as Kyoto; Japan’s former capital city is the cultural heart of the country, and its imperial courts and temple districts were a breeding ground for the development of everything from tea ceremony to ikebana flower arranging. For 1000 years new and old art forms were refined, as artisans perfected their crafts, and this rich cultural legacy is still very much alive to this day.

Book Online

Many experiences are best booked in advance, and, today, this is often easily done online; if not, ask your accommodation for help.

Elena11/Shutterstock ©

Try Something New

Even if kabuki theatre or formal tea ceremonies don’t initially float your boat, such unique Kyoto experiences rarely disappoint and can be a surprising highlight.

Kajohnwit Boonsom/Shutterstock ©

Meditative Vibes

A number of temples offer reasonably priced or even free meditation sessions; combine with a temple stay for a truly Zen experience.

Garden, Enkō-ji | Stephane Bidouze/Shutterstock ©

BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

Get a short introduction to the varied facets of Japanese culture by heading to an evening show at Gion Corner 1.

Delve into the world of tea ceremony at Camellia 2, where you can learn the intricacies of this thirst-quenching art form.

Join in the revelry of Japan’s most famous summer festival during the month-long Gion Matsuri 3.

Catch a kabuki performance at Minamiza 4 and enjoy trying to make sense of the story at Gion’s iconic old theatre.

Meditate and become at one with the universe under the instruction of a Zen Buddhist monk at Enkō-ji 5.

FOR FREE

Japan is not the eye-wateringly expensive destination it once was, and despite catering to big tourist crowds, Kyoto has plenty of things you can do completely for free – it can be worth seeking out low-cost thrills, so that you can splurge on more expensive treats such as a high-end dinners or ryokan stays.

Tenryū-ji | maodoltee/Shutterstock ©

Spiritual Savings

The grounds of many of Kyoto’s best temples and shrines can be entered for free, so you can see famous landmarks without it costing at all.

Take a Walk

Some of the best experiences can be had simply by walking from place to place, taking the backstreets and noticing the little details of daily Kyoto life.

BEST FREE EXPERIENCES

Although the main hall requires an entry fee, you can tour the extensive grounds of Nanzen-ji 1 with-out spending a penny.

Make a small detour from the Philosopher’s Path and discover Hōnen-in 2, a must-see temple that sometimes has free art exhibits.

Time your visit to watch the giant floats and enjoy the revelry of Gion Matsuri 3, a summer festival spectacle like no other.

Find your inner self and join in a free zazen morning meditation session at Tenryū-ji 4, held on the second Sunday of the month.

Make a beeline from Kyoto Station to see the spectacular structures of the monumental temple complex of Higashi Hongan-ji 5.

UNDER THE RADAR

Kyoto is frequently cited as a case study in over-tourism; bus routes are packed with travellers and their suitcases, popular sights are overrun with tourist crowds, and some fear the city may lose the characteristics that set it apart. But there are still quiet neighbourhoods and corners where the understated local essence of Kyoto can be found.

Two Wheels

Kyoto is relatively flat and pleasant to cycle around, so grab a bicycle from one of the many rental shops and get around like a local.

weniliou/Shutterstock ©

Get Off-Road

Don’t just stick to strict itineraries or follow the crowds; wandering down side streets often leads to memorable discoveries such as hidden shrines and other interesting sights.

cowardlion/Shutterstock ©

Mix Like a Local

Festivals, especially smaller neighbourhood ones, are great for mingling with the locals; likewise hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) picnics in the park or eating at an izakaya.

BEST UNDER-THE-RADAR EXPERIENCES

Escape the crowds at Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion) and enjoy the peace and solace of neighbouring Hōnen-in 1.

Pick up an end-of-day bargain bentō box just before closing time at the gourmet base-ment food floor in Takashimaya 2.

Join in-the-know locals admiring the pretty gardens of Enkō-ji 3, while avoiding the crowds of nearby Shisen-dō.

Explore the sprawling temple grounds of Ninna-ji 4, a favourite with locals during cherry-blossom season.

Stroll or sit along the banks of the Kamo-gawa 5, and take in the view of the fires lit on Daimonji-yama on 16 August.

Perfect Days

Many travellers visit Kyoto as part of a wider Japan itinerary. To really do the city justice, try to give yourself at least four days, and tackle the city’s dispersed sights in chunks.

Philosopher’s Path | cowardlion/shutterstock ©

DAY 1

Southern Higashiyama

Beat the crowds by starting out first thing at Kiyomizu-dera. Take in the dreamy views from the temple’s raised terrace, purify yourself at the sacred springs, then exit the temple for a stroll along charming (if busy) Sannen-zaka. At Maruyama-kōen you can get a breather under the trees, before a quick detour to Yasaka-jinja on route to monumental Chion-in, the grandest of Kyoto temples.

Lunch Refuel with a signature bowl of oyakodon (chicken and egg over rice) at Hisago.

Kyoto Station & South Kyoto

Ride the rails south to Fushimi Inari-Taisha, Kyoto’s most famous shrine. Climb up through mesmerising Senbon Torii, a passage formed by hundreds of flame-red shrine gates, then hike your way along paths