Basics of Knitting Weft Knitting
Basics of Knitting Weft Knitting
Basics of Knitting Weft Knitting
University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra. He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, hes working as an Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is one of the inputs from the series of his articles)
as double jersey, just as the name implies, uses two sets of yarns on opposed needles resulting in a heavier fabric that looks the same on either side. Double knit fabrics have little stretch; retain their shape and works best for tailored garments. Each of these fabric types is unique in appearance and function.
Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks Fabric less stable and curls when cut Special finishes counteract curling and improve stability Highest machine productivity End-uses of jersey knits Sheets Sweaters Terry robes T-shirts Mens underwear Dresses Hosiery and pantyhose Fully fashion garments Jersey knit variations Fleece Intarsia Jacquard knits Knitted terry Knitted velour Lisle Plaited knits Silver-pile knits
End-uses of rib knits Collars and cuffs Necklines Bottom edges of sweaters Double knits jackets Knit hats Mens hosiery
End uses for purl knits Infant and childrens wear Sweaters Scarves Fancy garment parts
Interlock fabric
Interlock structure consists of two 1 x 1 rib fabrics knitted one after the other by means of two separate yarns, which knits alternately on the face and back of the fabric and are interlocked together. Interlock is a reversible fabric, which has similar smooth appearance on each side. Interlock is produce on a cylinder and dial circular weft knitting machine, with alternate long and short needles opposite to each other on cylinder and dial. Characteristics of interlock knits Reversible It does not curl Firmer fabric Less extensible as compared to other jersey fabrics Heavier and thicker as compare to rib It unroves from the course knitted the last Costlier fabric Better insulator
Purl fabric
Purl fabric has loop knitted to the front and back on alternate courses, in contrast to a rib fabric, which is knitted to the front and back on alternate wales. A simple purl fabric looks like somewhat like the back of jersey knit on the both side of the fabric. The simples purl fabric is known as 1 x 1 fabrics. Purl fabrics are made on knitting machines called purl knit machines or linksor-links machines.
Fig: Plain jersey fabric
Rib fabric
Rib fabric is a double jersey knitted fabric with vertical rows (wales) of loops meshed in the opposite direction to each other. Simplest rib fabric is 1 x 1 rib having alternate wales knitted to the front and back. The ribs tend to close up to create a double faced fabric, which has the same appearance on both sides. Rib knits fabrics are produced with the knitting machines having two sets of needle, normally positioned at rights angle to each other. Characteristics of rib knits Also called as double jerseys fabric Its reversible fabric More elastic than jersey knits More thicker than jersey knits More stretch crosswise than lengthwise Edges do not curl Very stable Running and laddering still a problem More expensive to produce Next highest machine productivity
Characteristics of purl knits Slowest of the knitting machines Both side similar appearance More expensive Good stretch in all direction Stretches out of shape easily Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit Thicker than jersey knits Does not curl Can be unroved from either end
End-uses for interlock knits Outwear fabric Dress wear Skirt Blouses T-shirts Variables in weft knitted fabric A great deal of variety may be created by manipulating the following: Fibre content Yarn type and twist Fabric count Colouration Finishes and Variations of tuck, knit and miss stitches
(In the next issue, we would be discussing about Plain jersey and rib fabrics.)
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