Sauces
Sauces
Sauces
RCIP CONT(NTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
.,
Dairy
.\I".hroomsilnrl
Nu'~ and s..,ds
Creek Cooking
CMAPlER
..
..
EQUIPMENT
Cn.)~,,~~
"
..
"
"
Spint s
Wine
(:II,o,P1[1I
STOCKS, GLACES,
ANO ESSENCES
StOlk
"
"
Trum~~
I'ork Produc!>
Spi.-et
Prvd"CI~
11crb~
A SHORT HISTORY
or SAUCE MAKING
:\n~jem
INGREDIENTS
CHAPTER
CHAI>TER
."
GI""u
,)",
!':""ncl!S
,\'.."hin,.
s.......ing U n.iL.
"
. 11
("APTtfl
LIAISONS
II..
AN OVERVIEW
r TI
len
G~I~,i,
S'M,'h.
1't\"!.Iy"lh
err,'m
,,'
,"
nurler
CH.lPTER
l"'I'I"O"";ng
CHAPTER
\\-h,,~ S"u~e
8kh.. m~1
CH.lPTtfl
'"
;\\.. al~
BROWN SAUCES
10
Cti.lPrER
Htown """....
l.>.ri .~", .. Ur...... n
t.kri"~l;'C
B'own s.uu.
SHELLFISH SAUCES
s...,,"
,ntS"H.,,,,d
'"
'"
...,
Cor;tl
1'1,..",,1
(HAPlEfI
Flrai.inc
R"",'"ng
s..."te;ng
Sl~.'mi"g
'"
..'"
..
.,
(tI~pf["
11
CHAPTUI 1 4
CRUSTACEAN SAUCES
~'I~'
01 (:."
ct.",""
M of. YON N A IS E- B AS E 0
SAUCES
'a~..... n~
S~,,,c'
anJ
Pr~p..ra""n.
P,..,uulion. for
.\Ia,y<mnai..,
l.ob,,~''
P~I"';1\fI
COnl~mponlr)' ''''''-"onMi ..
Varia,ions
Ocher Sheillish
(l.15':d Sauces
CHAPH~ 12
JEl.LlES AND
CHAUDS-FROIDS
CHAPTER
13
S'Qr.o.g~
s"nm>g
EII'I..
."
'"
16
SALAD SAUCES,
VINAIGRETTES,
SAl.SAS, AND RELISHES
HOT EMUl.SIFIED
EGG YOl.K SAUe ES
Sau"e~
'"
Compound BU\le/"!\
Whipped But!en
CHAPHR
Rel'",iring Bruhn
--
15
Chaud, Fruid$
",
BUTTER SAUCES
CHAPTEII
Crc~m-Based
n.
n.
m
m
m
--
Cold SaU<'u
..
m
...."
~,
S"loa.
Chutneys and Rel;"hn
Froi! Sauces
CO ... t~T1
I.
_n, s..
......
'"
-.... '.
Sao
r
So,.11
.....
"
\'Iodr<ra
->
~>
"
,~
(>........ s.
TI
'Y
--
..
s--.
t'
jJo.
--
.....
M. Sa...,
--
C_
...... .,..
~
...
s.~
'* m~ .......
[
!io
;0."
ad (1.oboI
s-:.. .oiaviIk
~aUn:h
IUc \\,
Sa
So
..~>
Co......-1eos.
I
SaI_
f.
:>.ai....ad..
t'-
PJ,
II &rIC
! . . . Crr-dtft IShn
'l.-
So ,.. ,\\
So..., Poovr"d.
s.. ,. I'
\I
Sa...... Il&v...
{~J
C~m
So
..
",,\&Io-l\.oocJ "in&~
L .s...lK<'forF ..
.. JSI~ml>
..
.9
s. ,
Sa.... r"...
...... ,.. It.
:..
p~
1wom,...
:x>m S.uu)
"
,. halle"'"
c
l
Slr.1. _I Cl'Hn
}> J. Cnopt ',I. \\oden
Own-Rc aak<l t,;hi<1l
N ,,,.
.,t.n ..
line
(1 okt.
SaU<'l'
s.... ...
fMAI'fU
V..
It(......,..
5.0 .....
s..
So
ct..
SalK..
,.~
TOIItI!
s.. ... _
s.... A.u","
(Whd.,\\
.........
a ....
~...
..
.1.
s..ldl. "I' \ ..
l..r
I/at.
J.
w.a !Yo Il
R..... s.,.&
"'.. ro ... ,}
roc
Fe..
Bnf.t.
I~mb
.So
"'",.
h
S.,I,,,.,n~" f'~p;II",~
... "h
.I~h<nn.,J Y~g<',,,hlc.
Gc~,;nkd
s..n"'"n
CHlPT(R
,.
,.
.0
11
Butler
Cru"acc~n Oil
no
CHAPTER
Saucr Bhrnai""
Saue<' HoUandaise
Sauce Chomn (Sa.uc~ Ilo!ama,,,,,
wuh Tom ..,o)
s.,uc~)
s..u~e N~whurg
Orientale
S;au<" :-':o;""ue
SdUCe
CHAUDS-FROIDS
CIa.,~ .'Ie~, Jell\"
.1
lor Po. G, ~
Buner Sauce) _
Ilo!"mai$~)
CHApn~ 12
(l\"oi.",n~
JELLIES AND
Q.ur,R.,,,illon Jelly
.,
Saucc Ila"ariao
SI<<UII..J Lob<'ec wilh Pa .... I~)' Sau~t
l.oQ..'~r ala ;><agr 1/
Chid'~n "'i,h Cra)fi.h
Japane.e_S,:de Crab Sau~e
.\\i~.d Shellfish Fricuute
13
HOT EMULS]FIED
EGG YOLK SAUCES
ea ...
S3Ut~
-.
CRUSTACEAN SAUCES
Cra.l'li.h Sauce
s",u<'~ Hamar.! (Lob.,er
.I~",b.,,, P~",illl
HolI.n,hi.e
c",.,,,.-coon
CHAPTER
14
MAYONNAISE-BASED
SAUCES
S~ba."on-Slyl" .\\d.l on,,,,;,...
S"U<
s..~<1
,~t
--m
Tr~,t'lio"aj :\....Y"n".,i"~
0,.'[1l'5
.,
,...
\\oJn'"
"
'" -, .-
,,~
II
- ....-""
..
\_~.r
\,na'f""r
-"
I"
1-
-' \,
~ panlr~
b
~r
,,~
;\Iu:
\'~pf
lot
~ll..:l
~fn
M... , _ P
:.-.1\\,
\\.hn
__ul,n~r And aI.,...J Soo...
N,
lI"n,. ...
Nul lull ...
Can
...
--------
s,.,,,
s...
s.._
Nut Cum
C .. -hew
C......"I',..
.., h Coc- III .....
I).... s......."e
\\.1
and arnwsar
,....
s.J..
C
1..0:-
_T,. 1.
Kumqt. If Rodi&l
~ And C
hon R..t~
C I...,.
T ,I< and
I...t...: "
,...
C....h_ P_r
I' ad.. 1(; -lie-Almond "",,""
-lor ....
~ .....J.S.,....fn
g"n I',
~.
(~I'
M ,Ct..."
..o
Mn'''..a<-
.o\""ho<ade
Cumhr ..... nd .. r
T.~....t
(;.....
F ...
,; 1(, 17
Lentlll'.,n
R.d \\
So.
_c
T<><IWill" 5.011
So ..1 "+<
IKe ror Fial
..
-----.,
--
-..
~
""
t ,nuM<!
p-
"-40
~
e,,,,"';'A 18
",01... Oil
n L l l n ' j ......
(f<tl_ ...... r;
Spaclwlu
.....
'(
'"
.,
PASTA SAUCES
I'&OUI.
", . I M I
........
>iT.,. ........
.~,
,-'"
-'....
"'"
....
"
"alnlll
,\1..-10
s..uklo !.Lob.!' O.
'" ."
d Sh"'..p ....
So
,. ...........
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,..,
"'U1"
.ond p....loy
"*'"...
$pop<:':
artie
(;.,..;.til
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G"eo
.Jtr.,
...ryV....fIIe.
(.\0,
..
"~II
rot
f
(o.
"an;
--
.1, ..1:..
1'r-
....."(1 19
ASIAN SAYCES
Il.pp a'!>ao
\ ' " " , , _ SpicY t ... s..~
....
(x_ ... )
n... Ro C"tIJ
, . . .. .a_
M....
I h&l G
". k. Sa"",
..
1r",h
,
. s. ,
U IU I
"lei lid..
IU,
k. ~\
eel
hnpr<
s.la<1
..
1'......
... T .... C -n
In'""
'VI .......11"
...,
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.\\award s... "
~.:.nd
l"
.,0<1
'-'1",_.11.... ')
1'4. ..... ,,'
....
w
m
m
{; ...... \\....u.
\', ".1
20
DESSERT SAUCES
\,
( .....,.1...
Cho.:01.0 ... Ii mer Sau ~
C.... rnd C ...m s..,,~
S.
II lel'WOfd,
I>e.
.... Str.,
Cu..." .'aoli.
(r.
...
......
t:
"" II lla. J.
hLd au
d ....., Iii ... io"
.... v. . .1
I'. s
"wI'1
~ ~"'-'
_So ..."
I' ",.. s."
8. ""
----
..
c.:h
~""'(:>LIli.o
~.
'
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C .......
c...(.w,.
Ie-I
"" luJillg ~ug;lr (in <-"n,lnrm), "lmond~'I'iM'" hi"",. r><>tnegt"anatC'a, dtNs fruit ...
an,1 pma.,h_ Spi"e. h;.. l b.. .. n used in \\'..... Iern Eul"Op" "ince Roman hmes, but
Ih,'''- "ari .. ,." was lin,il ..<I. and Ih ...... w~r" .........,.\ only in nobll! and royal circin_
\, Ihe Cru"... lcn ",lurn..J. Ih" U!ll! of 5I'i"".I,..,"me mOre common, they nM
onl.v I'1"O .. i,lI Il,,,or hut probably ma~ked the taste of tainted ml!al.
\'~rjuin (Ih .. un~w"lt ... "ed juic<, of unripe srapts and som"';mel crab apo
pl<'l') and vincg"r are mnot ohen <-alied ror wh"n a liquid ;.. needed. In I.ter
m.ulUsnipls. inlluen.;-... d by ,\liddle Eas'ern c()<lking. orange and lemon juke
were .om.. lim .." u ....d.
\-..!'juice and vinegar are di~lincd'y !>Our ingredi .. nl$. and Ihlt' Saraceni and
We"'ern European. j .. "laposed ,hem with sW"",,lene". Hooey and dried fruits
wt~ u.eel iniliaH., but 'Hre panially npla.;-.. d wilh sugar, which remained quite
r<lfe and w"",, tre.ll ... (lll~ a ~pice. Th .. m..di ..."al ""'lui (a kind ofliquid stew) was
....'mel;m<:"5 ~weelen~(l wilh dates. raisins. or sugar.
The modern I.VBtem of preparing stocks had not ~ appelU"ed. but bed'
bouillon anJ Ihlt' cooking litlu;d~ of both meats and fish ....-ere bound with bread.
almond$. and eu J olk. to COn\t"n tht"m into sauc ... s.
Almost ..." ...ry medi ... val ~ip'-' indudC'a spice9. such as e.affroa. ';npr. nut
meg, cloyes, ,;nnamon . .;-ardamom. ;ond lon, P"'ppe". Rar...ly was the Ravor or
nuance of on ... ~pict' ... mphasiz ... d in .ont,..... t wilh a. di$h_ In,It"M. m...t dishes
contain three or more. 'pi..,,", with $Cernin,ly linle ahenlion to their relationsl.ip.
M... dit"val,ex\1l (Taille"en!'. /", 1'iiuulUr.."d /", Aflnagirr k Pan..) aft filled with
"""ip"" for soup. and racoil19 in which ,h... element Mil\B prepared -li~r. ftIeIIl.
fish-is purkd;ond I.I~ 10 bind .h... liquid.
When bread or almonds were usN to bind ..uces, tMy were pounded together ". the M,;nnins: and moistened with verjuice, vinegar. Wine. almoDd
milk. and sometime...ow's milk. When uaed, eg yoIke: wen bearen and .dded
althe end. jU51 ... they are toclay. In tome recipeS. liver (it ia often not dear1lllbal
kind) D used to thicken Ihe &aU.
Althou,h we do nOi know what the UAct textufft of _ _ _ like ID. me-
dieval cooking 1M e.uin4J habit. of the times _Ld have made It dif6c:uIt if not
Impoutbk to appreaate a deliea&dy balanc.d aaut:e MOld ood. _
.rved_
IIticit .JK:U of~ad (trenc:h.....) m.w.d of plata; and eMe:a with the ........
atead of with forlt . Ir. &IlU<:C! were too wn. would have bee. .t.arW ~ ...
I'
d"C~~'''''~~~~''''''~E~~i5i~
....... """'"
whole alroonds
1 ClIp
150
Sliced almonds
1 small handful
1 smalll'landl~1
Qr~ms
hoI waler
2C1lp$
500 millll'I"..
,osewater
1 !""spoon
Smdlilitm
aHarol rOWS
1 drop
1 drop
1 5m~U P'O(I'I
qfCUl>d cinl\olmon
I small pin",
heavy cream
'I> cup
125 millil'ters
suqar
I teaspoon
5 mlllll'ters
6 medIum
6 medIum
to lasle
to !"sle
lel'ltjlllwiR rinsed
salt and
peo~r
J. Preheat the 0\'1''110 350"F (175"C). Separ.nely roaM 'hI.'" whole almond,
and sliced almonds in Ihe oven ror 15 minUle~. Let cool. Sel !lSide- Ihe slicd
almond,. Grind Ihe whole almonds ill a food processor for I minule and
put in II POI wilh Ihe hOI waler. Bring 10 II simmer and leI steep ror 15
minUles. Work ,hrough a fineme~h Mrainer. Reserve Ihe liquid and discard Ihe almonds or grind Ihem lunher wilh a monar a,,,1 p"sde 10 use as
a sauce Ihi~kener.
sugar 10
Spread Ihe leek. in an oval baking d,sh jUM large enough 10 hold Ih~m dnd
pour over 'he almond milk. BakE' u(IIi1lcnder, abo\-u 35 minuI..,. Sprinkle
':Wer Ih .. ,Iin-d almonds and ~el've.
,"'''f'....
v"lk .. ,h. '''',,''''~ II.,,,,,"..,d ",,,h I.n,on ,II"~ ,', ,""""'''', mu,hrn"", .... nd do v",);
$<;lIl1ion . ,'inegar. Itmon "nJ lim~ Z,-,""" and pepp<'"r, No couli~. ,lock. Or bUlle.
PO"odde ("",.
ISSI i$ mdJ.. wilh conc~nlral(xl stock 11m! no I~mon or orange. L... VlUl:nn,,..
~n "'Uce (.<4,,,,, '''rid. made from ,hard and ';negar. also hus a ,li5lincd~' me.
di~,'..J ,h"rau~r. :\0 oil. bUller. or ,"x'~ w"a u""'" a.nd II. ... "'''ce wu Ihickc~
wilh '''''-5c"d b...,.,d
,,= u~d '0 at!~nu~te the acid;,y of Ihe vines"', :\ modern s,,'R'e
4 pounds
buller
ounc"5
.I,'e'en t>ror~
2 (~"~
totaYv cr,'am
.",
a~<' ..
"a'nc
f ~rl c"~)"pe.o Cl,
\'9$
"': 'lOal)
2 kiloQram
4:.. )nm~
~["j .r.lllilt~
.' ta"~".-'OI"
'"
: loolelllOGn
'1;",111
10"
,~
, it~'l
I,"~
ID .. ~r 10 ellm,nate q','
"
to ta"e
I.
14. '-UCES
"rola.lr
.......
I~s
~n
like,
_'"''<Y.'''
r....... ..... .... ttl. and ...,..a.n ..nd h., ,u~ ..
5.._ .. ' ......
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s,.... he.,........ "P" ....... nd .................. r--- of
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nd~
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9ti.00.(_,al~nou_lIr
nliai, .. ...., .... "'..dy "I'pt- _ r.... 11m.......... puI .n(u..... ). Inil"II)". .nd
, ... drape.IftO" .rnl'o""""', Ih. drvrl"l'mtnl .. I. _
)Uk,,,, pv. <h<,l'~ I''T
rn .... on 10 'Hrhio, un, <'1'1 m...v be d,llieul. lor An ,\men., hrl '0
.....-...."d.
_.u" u"I" .. Furopea. "t.,n...!. an .... ' -.co.n \tol hu. I\(> ","I
n"ft I~""
0 b ..... a ....'y. But in . 'filll
he pre... .. ~ .hn 11ft 0
daic, cool",., Wfi\" q -'"Uonrd. aDd .an.v
_ old di,,," ...re 10,1.
.:0
..
nd .. mpr~"",
oIewIyat... ionrJ.
Oft: .. kr ntcallll .vat,OM II 1%Ot..ul~ 9;0..
ltWero IlIOn pn
found or Ion,_laati", lhan hOR in lhe ..... 01 ...
m.ak . eMf, be,.n to
"lun;"'lt !lour lrom
(uaed i. ~n"
AI ",hea ain~~ It.;. .\li lJlt
,\an) ..nd 10 ,hid.tn.h ..., s will. ,"rum,)u1I and eflI yolk.. s..UCft
-",..-d in ......lItr "I...n t1in an" wtre
ally 1,,11., tnt> red.
S, ..
ef, and .. J~ '1UHfion ..., val.
ellm. ali", lour !"rom ....CH.
p~ ... lour1rM ....cn :..1. ... .kill .. J npenen:to iWI\ II rbe ~ ad
by .... ~1ftDI n "' ('1101,,.., ~.are ~ i~ I
ano ~ 'ed. 'N ,\! .
hOUflo t'II&IIy chef..... ...nlm .mord ,h" 1 _
....'""- Wfi\" 1,,1 e. , .....
ht"llldft-I"
hKk .. nrd, ...... on... hereve .............Ih."" S"mtchtfo., .. ",.
eKo" hl.1" _ 11, r. Ihi,-k"nrol th.. ....uc'"' ... lmIK' nlirriy "i.h cream and
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or all , .. ~ 0,1,. oli,'" oil is.' .... m"''' >~ ,il.. and _Mia] rOT ...... c.. makin, and
grnt"a] """king. It i.. a,. ",I"ble '" d,ll .. r~nl gradn lh~l .ar~ bued on h_ Ih~ oil
i~ e"rao<eJ f,.."n the "h,'~ and ,he .. mounl of ol~lc ac,d " contains. Olei, il<id
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"I' olei~ acid and usuall.y lou Ihe words "Ii"'t cold preuerJ" or "p,.w"iIY p,.... ,,'Q
Ih~ label. This implies that cold pr... ~ure alone. rath .. r than h.~t Or
chemical5. Iou iJe<,n u~ to ""Iract th .. oil kom ,h.. olives_ E"tra-v;rgin ali ... oil
is a complelely natural produn or often startling delicacy and compl .."uy. which
i. in/lucnce<l by climate. soil. th .. "8l' of ,he t/"ffS. the vintag... and other I;o<;t, ...
Thue;ou-e no reliable rules il5 to which oil,-Italian. Spanish. French. Crul..
art' the he.t: [ike wine. each oil need. 10 be judged on ;t5 own parllcular merit ...
One consisl"nt diiTerenc .. betw.... n F~nch and Italian olive oils is th.tltal.
ian oil i. usually green aod the French i~ golden brown_ Thi~ is ~au ... th ..
F~nch .. se ripe olives: th~
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hi ...d lhu many
cook. and dwf. haw /lC'Wr worIo.ed with or twa
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~"f pr"O<'eU- 110,. "loKf'" cu, be u""!.o tiw NIKft ..... b.I~ I. 11 <It 'Nf.
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'0 ,.... ....." in I"htly ...IecI ,....... .\1.... m,,,I..,... "I ,,,,Illn rKOm",end ~eep..... ,b.-", e ... bt-dd.J ,". 1M 01 raW ,,-. Tn;. dou no h.nn 10 ,h. 'nlilk bon .uch,.....J ..;,her, l1w rice Io.Hp' ,1M 'rulll" ohy bu, don noth,,,. to .alt_
pnfo e. and he net i_II ",'M _lai ... in dw f'I1X"u; ..h.on cook...! .. Y 'VC.
~ " ' - I .....y ....,.., .. _.-bed ia 10.1
Br.-.."... ,he..-olNl of In.rifln d, .... '0 lnod., on ...,n,"4I f~ .. ouch on e"",,
bu~r... n<! er~&III. ;1 m.. ku "'''"' _n.., to .. OR Ullm.,. ,n .. ;.ar ,.."h bull~(""
.,,~,h .",hole elJl1' (on ,hr,r .MIl.). Suner ,I.... Na bft......nd w"h ,rullin "n
t1 .... bt- u...d ) I;"';.), ..uen. The aTOma 01 ..",Ill" peadr..1ft 'srMl\~ and
..nu........... 'II ..... T N " ... t!wllt bt- uwd for _kIln or Ihr vol1
If ..... 10. .nltlin .... ~ ", ,_1 01 ......... 'M-,r n..'I'C" .. be pre"*""*' 'Y
PP"'S ,he.. 'Ishtl) in I-'I.utic wr p ...... Ji ............... " ", pi ....'" hap.' ~.I
1..,.....,,"1 ~~m ,n .. ~old 1t'H' "r. preferably .. ~""I'-j ..... _. In ,hi .......y ,hey ......
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PORK PRODUCTS
R..- .,..... .and
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alJ.purpo. nlBlponell' 01. Ra...,.. haM or 10 rontribule "VOl' and ...... ...
tin 10. br. . beeau.e of it, MrDIIf amoky laaIe. It C&JI, howner. be _
... betitu.e 1Or..tc pork and cut UIIO amalI-,.. (Iud-) and UMd . .....
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...J.. o.aUCft. U.." \ .. ,hem ~1"lJy: II eo n ..v<>r i. <Iomi ....,;"'. Th .. it ..
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STOCKS, GLACES,
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.n can be u...! ;l!ooe This dish is p",.,icu!.... I." ,o"d with fresh \~,il~J ilnd
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llI1imal. belo" th~ ribs, The nil I""k. in Ian "&gl.Iely lik~" !IIl,]dl" I>~,,<e
il h. ,~, 11", long ':~nter .etl;"" with n..'I'" h.. ng;nl! down the ,;d,',.\l.an.l' "', ipes
~'alll"r p,miaif,\' boning Ih" .addle, .. ulling "I' ,he 10;"5 in the 1lar,l,,'!""" n>;H
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wi ~..dd ,t' lamb, ;1 h Ipi ,<>
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1I1j; ur ,h~ po~n. Care ~houhJ, ;\bo bt' I.. ken wh~n IUrning ,he me",. II' ,I i, IUrncd
n.,ph,.za.rdl., or.ul "' on<'e. 11 may cool Ihr.!",,, too quickly. cau,;ng the jui""," 10
,..,I~ILW When brownlllg Jarg<- .amOunt, nl me~,., il rna... be neeu",,}' to ~h.'nll"
",m during browning SO th.a, ,h.. c<lTam~liZlt.l )UK<" do nOt ''''''rhe.., an,1 hum.
If,oi.>Im''':i f.i4uiJ. a,uJ A"""'lIJi~ 1't.'1dQbfr..
.\\0 Itening li<joiJs lor stews AnJ bra.i~,1 m.. ~'~ h,"'e ,raJi'io"aU,\" e"olv~
Oil' "I
n<"Slity. c;..'ml"ns h"v .. long u ...! ,',n"If;,r; ,h<' French. win .. {or cid"r in ~"r
m. n.1y), the Irish h"ve had 10 ....1." on wdter (wi,h po'",oe$ ~ontribu'inl! bu.ly):
~nol CaribbeiLn cQOks sometime. U"t nom. s."",~ ret;ipes it"gm"nt Ihe,, liquid.
,,ilh "arious i,vpe.s of lomalae5. l'urt:C8 "f ,"pc..... picklc$ or oli,'t'$, _,,,d. of CO",",,".
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t"'oJ. by, and carrot- -a"'" lI<>",elim~5 rcpl ..c...! nr .augmen'."J will. gMli,
turni" .. or chile5, .Iepe-n.l;ng on n"lIon nr "'trion. The cotnbin."ions of moi,ten .
.. '<!'Uoll and .... om"ri.. 'egtt~t.l ... u5.,,1 in ate"'$ "nJ brai.e<J m~..~ a .... ' ...'
,lieu. which is pmb.ab1y why no b :0,'" or ~!~. t.a;tes exacdy like ,nOl1..,
&"flUtG",."i
11,. h""quel gami ha5 be,ome SO SI"n,L.....liu.J Ihal 'heh often .d,! " 10 11 "I"'"
..-i,h lilllt, Ih!>oghl as 10 h\>w the herb.< meld wilh the ~le"'''''''lher coml'",nenl>.
lS,~ 1"'11" 51 Inr" b.u.ic ""r.ion;n ,1iI1 .. ,..n' .i"". ) Rareb' .... ill 1...... I~y. ,hyme.
'od h".\. I~"I'-(he '"",,<!~r.J "OInponents of" Iw"quel Sarn;-d".h with Ih~
",h .. aromatic iogr~d;cnl5 in ;, M~"'. bu, ",It"n II Oouquel gllrn; <'"n he "".J [0
go t Mt i"di,';d",,!;,\, "ntl.l'''''''',;<>l1. "";1), Ih ,,,Idilion 01' o'ner h,-d,., ["rl.1
F... 'l<:h ...,.. ip I ",hen ~1I,'d f"r b ... it an.l hYlloop in a bouqLlet !"rni; h~li..Jn "n<i
:rtl~n F"'h.h cool.s ... ill "hen ,,,1,1 m~n"r.,m. wild th,,me. or oR',anc In
~I X'co.
e of cin""m.,,, .,i.k will "n"-,, n ... malt, "$ wa., ;n,<> Ih" \.""'1" n
I!'Mn.\' ,j; vel
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"'e am 1'I.;,bo", e omhi""lio,
... I1,'On. nger. ino.1mon, "nd her _p,crt..
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trouFFtE OF VEAL SHOULDER CLOD
a'sln'suu .... m...llHli". II b ~ w, .. e ".DO:
.. nu ' .... n ",,*, unc"'~M. "'It~ ""'...., ~.
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251
3. P!..c'c Ih~ ,,, ..1 , 1".ul,J~r dod on Inp or d,, vcge lubl ... and "O()~ II On all aide.
on ,h~ .wv~ ",'<,r;, low h ..al lor I,,!<> ~o ", i""I~~. ""hi" ,_ a pal .. &nId~D
[,,,,,wn h", n,,{ ,1M!... ,\ \""-"wb ,I,,. pre- I."", ,h e o"en 10 :;[,(T'~' II;S"C) .
.1 ,\ dJ cup (I;!" mill'I""""') o f , I." m",.. "Oll. '0 ,he hol1omol'h .. ",,~
Turn .1.., h~." nnW high .. nd red m'" 'I." ... "' ~ " , a gl~z" on ,I... bcn. OlJI ~
Ih <:"''''''"1, . .1,, "u, ..I1"" ,, to ~.. r" md,z"
S, ,'\ dd ~ ~ "f' (! ;!b l~illilil ~rs) or ,he r" ,",u;,,,n]! ollx:k 10 ,I... c..... rol. and
bnng " ",,, . 1" ", 511""'''< (In top ,.1 Ihe I love. Add ,h" bou'!oet garni. Pla.:
t
,h~ ~"B>c rol,. t' tll' r ",d. '" the ov"n .
b. &s.c ,h" mea' c,'cry 10 minUI ..,. II' ,h" br"i"n! li<Juid evapon"~ and
.Ian~ ,,, ,'aran,e/i,,, on d,, oono." 01 ,h" cas..,r"l". add anoth"r II Cup 1125
millili,e ... ) of' "01.'1.. Con,;nue in ,hi. "'''.r unhl ,he "eal is done (_ Note),
The ....1 is don,' ",hen Ih .. iui~es run dear when Ih .. dod ;.. poitlOd ill tlr.o
cen,er ",,,h a .ke... er. at an inlernal I"mperilru~ or 131;" to HOOF (:'7" 10
60"C). ,h...",me iI. a roas'. Thi. take. abuut 45 minutes.
/ . Tran,!;"T ,h~ me", to iI platter and struin the hraisi", liq uid, Skim off ""y
tat Iha, Il"'lIs 10 Ihe surface of the slraine<lliquid. and sel'Ve the
liquid ov"r the meat or in a sauce boa. alongside.
~mailli"l
Not. ; The ;us for an ~toulTff is best when t~ cooking liquid is kep_tIy
,he veT of cM&fIleJiz.ing. The amoullt of stock that must be added d..riac
Ihe I;u;t
of cooking dependJ on the oven lemperature and rhe aIIIOIIDi of
liquid .eleased by the veal.
011
.,ag..
1, fie ,h, n"'" j",,, A" n"n .h.. ~, I'e"h" .. , ,h. ',,'en '0 :;.<>rrF 117[,"(;).
~. s.:Io:<' $" ",.,1 ,,,_rool. ,h", \<',11 ,U,I 11,,1,1 ,Iw 1;"tT ~hnu]dtr chI.
, (omh"'" ,h~ ono"". arr"'. 'Ie,:,:... n.1 m"~1 1J'",m;ngo on ,he ca...,,..,I" 1\tj,J
..:up ("II n"lI,h ... ,,.1 "I ,he danl;.,.] hUlle, .Lnrl ""'eal ,he ".,.bJ..s
","~I tr,n'''''''ll'' 1<>, .. I",u. 10 ,nmUlt.. unlll ,h~ ,tgo-L;ohl.,. an- 'T"",I""",,,
~. l'ul Ih. ,ic"] ,1.""1.1,,, dod On .op ."1 ,h, "cg~tabl"."'e;01 rnIX,,,,",, ftn"~
lK"~)' p,,,,, "vN' ,he r.""","ng d"rlf",, hUller,
5, (<<,'cr ,h" ,~,"~r"I, .,,,.1 pi"""" In th" """n. 11","" Ihe veal w1Ih Iht hUller
In the 1"''' ""Iry Hll11inu!Cs. ",hile"],"<'ki"g ,h"coltdil;<>n "r ,I,,, iu" IIlh.
,c!!,<,.thlu .. nd I"" >I.U' 10 brow" On ,he llOll"m of ,he ca ..,r"l" durin!!,
,/.e fi ....' 20 ""nuu's I" cooking. ,urn do,,"n ,h. O'Cn. lL on ,he "'her hand.
Iht "eal i~ silli"E ;n p<tlt colorles.li'IU;'!. lurn up ,h.. o"cn. (h m;w be
n~r.\" 10 ;,dju,' the 0"<''' le"'p"ralurc 1I<"'.. r"J ,imes during ,h" ~k
Ing.) The "~al ".1.,0" ",],eo the iUL~"~ roo dear" hen ,he dod j, p"hd 'n
,be cen'~r ",i,h a ,kewcr. at an imcrnal,ernpcrature
135" 10 140' l' (5i"
'0 60"C). Ih .. >OlIO. "t .. ro,\.sl. This I~k~s al""" I hl,>ur.
Ii. Tr~n.f"'r the rne~t 10" plnuer. /\dJ Ii nIp (l'll> millili,enl
.",,:10 '0 ,hc
"""",role. Sim"'er il umiJ il ca"'m"lizu. Do ,,<>, pour oll,h" b""N.
~ Add th~ .... maini"g 1 ,: CUp5 (3iS millilil".-.) of ~Iock 10 Ihe cu"mdited
jui<'~ "nd brin! it 'u a sl<>w ,immer f"r 5 minukL
S. Strain ,he ju~ imo a ""ucepan and .1..im otl" ""CU" la., with a I"dle s..;"I'C
,he i"~ o\"er II,, me,", or in a ..au~. bo.:.l at"n!, id"
or
or
,!W,
.,[t
B TO Iq SIIVI .. q,
~.ac~
'foIntC CI,
oeal
"eo;. (MOwed
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, """"
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...
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SOC Qr.n'S
4 to '; poun\'
mfo'.,m
1 m,,"
'med .,en
1~'
"alk
~.'M
quarl\
~rn
SUlik
ISOq,an,l
,:, .. 'ml liters
ilok"lO
>(
.mchll.S""
':',nm)MI"II"'l'"" I~ tnl's",
. ';unl._....",I ...... ..! wLlh the ,h"pS.... I fa.rl'{" l'o>~r "nd r..tng<'r"t~ I." :'
("'lh.. ",,,b.,k,nh'"
'<13 i,"lJ',
,.t[~A.' .... ,
,.u,"
253
It
Ih~ I"rded .ho"I.I"r ,,1 ... 1 ,nf<>"n ~"en .h.. p"'. I'reh~al .h~ o~~
"0
i.:l
;O-p
Sd~.'1 an ",.1 "... ~'~rnl~ ,h ... , ""II I'''' hol'l. ,he "l'<l t.h"ul,ll'"r, 10.:1. P",
~h"pr<.J ""ion. ~... ro'. <.INy. m~... ' 'nlnm'ng... and dari'i,~1 bu" ... 'n ....
~d...,rul~. Set rh~ ".,.J ,hnuld"r d ... 1"n '''I'
-I, 1("".. the .h"uIJcr, "n~n,,,~ . n ,he ,)"cn for.appro"imatdy 40
until it i, ,gnld~n b...m n "ntl ,here " " ~ ~;lrarnehed mea. dripping. "n tho
I,,",om ,,/ .h" casserole, Turn dow" ,h" O"en
300" ~' (15(rc).
__\,1 .1 I C"I' (7.~O millili' e!") ollh e "' ~at ""l'~ tn the blll 'om " 1', hcea.".. .,,I.
I'I~"" 01,,, c" ...,crol" on top " I th 5tm'c on h.gh heat. I k u on high u" tillh;
.u",k ",Juc/l.> ag latc and 'ilr,,,,,d' ~e. a" th" bOI, om or ,h. <'_,0.1.
6. hlJ ,h e bouqul'l tprn i and " "" ugh or ,lot'" ..,m:lining SlO<'~ '0 fum~ h..Jfw.,
up the . id .... of .he meil ' . Brin!!" i, ,a 01 ~Iow , imm er un ' 01' 01' ,he ,1<"... C.
,he <....,1"01" with ~ . 10 ..", a f alum inum l"otl Iha, i$ prtssed do".n in ,he Id
dl~ I". hi,h cau;c. liquid ,0 conden .., ;lnd drip d""'n o,'e, lh~ rne.t. 110 ,
u....t ... 1from the inside), and I'U' on ,lot lid , PIa.;:" the cas...,..,I.. in tl.. O'tft
i . .'h ,hr ...,al brai ..... , h"ck .he c....., rolc "" "I")' 70 minUlI!'S '0 mah ..
li'luiJ is no, boiling. Con,inue c,,",king ,he "cal in this "a~' fo, 2 3 h, l.
until a . hwet in"""ed in ,he I",d , lide. in dnd ou, wlIfo no thi.!.>",...
S, (;.rcfully ",move the m~," (al ,hi~ .t.tge il " "NY fragil,,) from th,. be..
ing li'l'.IId, and pili"" i, in.1 d~an o,al l"~>crole. Tum ,h~ ove~ I""'k "1' ,t>
.i 50"F (l l S"C)
9. Strain ,he braising li<jui.! dnd [,Ial'e il in a $au.. cp.~n <m top ,,r th, IT"".
Bring it 10 a simmer and ~k;m "If .1n.v froth and fa, tlw.l 1100 t IlI'~ -ur.
f...-c . Con,inue s~imming .",<1 ...,dlll;ng Inr 20 minutes.
10, Pour ,h,' ...... Iuc..-d an,1 d"8T....."J In-ai,i~ liquid ,,,,.,r the ,'<"aJ. .n,11
.M
wal. u"""".,cr<!. in ,h.- "'en. a..\<. th" ~'eal ~""n-' 5 minu'~s "i,h lh~lt.tt
rounding li'lUid. Continue 'n ,hi. W''.V until ,he b:.:u'ing li'luid h~. ~ IIG
'_I!"Upy c""lliknn' ant] ,lor v"al i. ~hi"" .md redtl"h br<>'o\n.
J I Tr'IIl~I .. r ,h., veal ;001 pb,<" or pl ... ller ,,~d <,ra", ,he brOl;.ins liqu,d
""".t
'0
'0
'0
Not&: l'nli~~ 'oa.;, ... whit~ urai,.,., "n,l po, ro"",,, ",hi,-h rannot I... nh""t ..
"itl""01 ,.~" ins ,hem to "\""""''''~' .Ii,~. "I' h,'";,,,,) m.-a" can I,,' rcl .... Md ,,, "C
drr in a ."",Il."no"nt 01' bnli";n~ 1;'lui.l ;n a "''''ered ",ut~ pan.
rn.
t'
"11 ...1 bu
d..,
254.
AU~CI
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osso au CO
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huo,
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~I,p Ih","'I",.,.."r. of ,he Irull1~ .J;,u "",I.., Ih~ _kin of the thigh~ and
;""....,. of Ihe chi~k~ns.
reu ..
chi,h"., cov~r well with pi.',,';,- wrup, and ,tore overn;ghl in the
rdr;l',,,,lo,' ('0 I'ennc~'c dt~ melU wllh d,, \rull1~ ilav"r),
~, 1>0'" Ihe <hichn ~1t>Ck. "he' ...,,,,a,ning In<llh' she,,", a~d the chetpred peel.
,ng' ;n", ,he 6011<>m of a ~ICilm"r lind hnnll Iu a .. mmer. Un"'ra,. the
ch;"k.". ;<1)<1 IIrrange ,h"m '" the ba.kCI Ollhc >learner and Cover will. a
.h..,1 "f crumplnl aluminum loil (,hi, makes a I1ghl~r ,;ea[) and lhe lid, It
IS ;mp"r~';'~ Iha, lhe lid Ii! l;gl"I.\', (Th~ uris-in,,1 recipe ..... Ied ,hi: lid un
wilh .. lUling f""'Ie or ilour.."d ",alrr.)
,I>"
5_ Sltam th~ chicken. 0'''''' low to medillm h,'nl for t j, hOll"". If any Meam
.",n.,o cS('ape from und .. r Ih~ lid. 'ur<> dn' 'n Ihe hUL Do nOI remo,"", .h..
lid durin,!! the cook;"g.
0_ C~n." Ih~ ~h;ck.,ns and ~er,"", in deep pia" a or wide soup bowls our
round~d w;lh th~ ~t"aming li'lu;d
...
'\"''''('~n w<>h mu" IDilke do with Iran>p.ilI'rnt """n b..gs. ",hi"h are equall.>
'''n
hue !~ .. pjctur"sqll~,
l'hi. melhtxl ;. ",ualll' UoW wilh dt'l" ,Ur ;n!(r..JiCnlS ~uc'h iI' fresh mord
'rum.,.. and fo ;,' grllS. wh~se arom~ would Mtfh'r if t'ookl'fl in a I..s. collnd.,oollt
way, COOtempnr;,,,,. c<>oks havc alsn u""d ,he mel h,~J lor '-;'j>lllring the 1",,.!'lIltn
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for ,he "_"'I I,qu"I..,d .. ___ 11'01 ""h ..
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4. Sd"~1 ", po, d.,.. ;~ I"rg" ono~gh to h"l<I th .. "h,,-ken .... ,I IiII it
,,-,lIcr. linn! ,h" """,,,r to" "mmcr.
h..Il h,lI
5. G.-nlly w,"'", the ~!O<k: it . 1>",,1.1 not be lVu hot tou"h
b. 1'1""" ,he, hi.-ken "oJ ,he I1>"re l. i,,~ide n """.t;ng bag ~n,j prou. I~
""I.. ,nt" ,he hal!_ s.,..1 'h ~ bag tigh tly wnh 'Ir1ng. Seal ,h 1.._ ....
<>nd b;.g. and ,Ite" ......J ag;>.n "'.\ ,h,rd ,,"i.', Do not .. n.,.. e .. , 1\.
'0
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'; PIa. ., ,h ,-hi,-k_"" in ,hr limme"; " g ",,, 'er and co.. ~r. Poa.ch I.,.. 1
8. Rc:mo' -c ,he c'h,ek .. " from the,
Just 00\0"' "",vinC. """,n tn.l_~
Irlltl.t" , ,he ~h'ckcn to .. cotung bom"l,,, car"e
..,lIId
9. pour ,h.. 'lI)(" k "nd mor .. ls into .. 2-<I""rl (2 Ii,,,, ) ""uc~pan ~ntl bri"l! 10
.,mmer. A<lJ<l" th .. ;easonings.
10. pr"6en. the chi<" ken in deep platn '<lrrountl~d by ,he mnnl,ud .to<~
",,,,,,r.
GRILLED ,\lI,:,\ TS
Grill~
m .."I' "'" , .... dilion...Jl." ~r'.... d "ilh 'lock-baaed ,",,"Clll (.ud .. Su.Diabl... P"!" I ~Ul . imple t-auu/s Ihill lunclion u condimen". o.:om )Un bu
Ie". TheM '''<leU a.-.. ".ed ba""",, 11.., juice. r.. le~ by grilbl m~~" n
rail imo Ihe !trill and M~ 10.'. mnking i, imp<",ible \0 p""pare..n ;m.g.'! .."ct
To prepare .... ucu ,hal capwre ,h. Itwor of ,I... grill. ramally Snll ,h. m."
and ,hen l'n;,\' " in ~,ock or other I1I1-,m,ni. liquids. The melhod ;.. O<In ",h..,
a.na1og<>I10 ,0 bra,.ing (whe.., m ...,a..re ti,." brown...! on '01' "f ,h flO It "'"
.hen mo~ten...!) ", \0. wlmis. a {e,hlli'lur ill" hi,h meal. l uall~ !"",rOl -.ul
If)'. i. pan- ".' " ..".,...!.
I'" is pre".....,.! "I.. th .. {rimm
an,I,L
',n 01
Ihe m~al " '0"'1'1.",,[ L_, g .. n,l. reh.
in Ihe Ha,'orf I"'
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5. ~,,~tn I ~ b,..,.u1S from ,he "1"";1,, ""juab", (It"k. Bod pheas;<nl an,1 grill
~,:;..~!",n'
.
h'hh
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h
,h.m . kin .jJ.. down hrst. ",-crIll .. ,n, .......\'~ I e 'n~a.t ,.Ire in II", reno
!rr.
rl,.. quail
5.
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or
odl.d broth
Nale: Some J,,~k breasl:S have II Ihi,-k Ia,\"~r ot
,nll- To pr<",~nl ,hi. probl~",. Ii,."t ocore [I." bre",[ .'oel.' ",;[h a ""~. 5h,,'T' I",r
in~ knife and ",ut~ n. i~in ;idc down. for 5 [0 f minuln, 10 I'~nder ",""I "I' lh<r., bd"re gnllins. Th~ ,kin c"n also b~ rcmo~~d ~n!i .. ~IJ fr(lm ,he hr~'''1 hefore
... Uing, but I~ (arefu! n<lt to o.-erco<,k .~iob.. hrcl\.,t .. as they dl)' oul q"i"kl,"
Ion..}
,
I~
luI. preparati"". Ro;l"i,'I" a ,'hK~<"" anJ p .... pari"! a I" to
da It Unpr", 1>< al in ,Ill hul [h .. moot ",,,11.",111,,.1 ..,,,a,,ran'...
~I
~u, ... ""rre "~inaj!v in,~nt,.J lu 1'..", Ih,. """\.. fn.:)f" lhe jal-lminUTe .liOi,-ullin
in p,-.,paring inlegrallklu,;u. Unt"rt",,,"el~.. ~I""'~~! '.iu<'H. espc
:'I.\' Ih., Way ,!h~y ar~ prrpa~<I in 1"'1.",,', C'Cono';"\'.ori"n,,d kitchen . ""..,1.1'
v', Ih....h,I.YlI\g d"""1 It",or 01' a w"ll""tul~ ;n'~8r"1 """'c. 11 ,.. h"wt"o l.
[><>os,blt to or '
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).
11, ......1 _,_ .''''..." 1'111~ 1'",1.1,.." i" 1''''Io ..i .....1~ ;,d'..n I...
.. I.... from ....1. '" >li .. n ;""''".....,1 ",", d".n ... 1'" 1 .. r ... ion,ond n-h.:III ....
J""
br..... ne: n ,_ine: 1i<!:1
1.....' !"rIch... 1 ~.' toy add;,
1"\......,.....loerock -,, ' r;! hodJ an I... 1'''''''' '<> .... li..juid
Ul
I....,""".. _" I ....., ,....
by tft".
lo u..d:on
h...-u-o Jl h....... ....," .. arrowrnolor lou,
<Ml>O
c.. "
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.... :or ..
...
Po ...
...!:v 1
..
p"'~ ... OC" lo*r ,'....., 1" .a.:hc-<I .....~~ .. I"" ..... thr
:pIiol .. MIII,
lnltl 100m
1""nliU ,du."t1on .. ''I"" .. ll<>rn.oU
11...'01"1 ..1 ........ l """h , ..,., J uen or p<d...:I ...... &n! Pf!'PII .... t j<UIII
lhe-poach,"I ~u.J .IC'dh~d...\
I
'Y
... I~,on
1111 ,htd
,n
au h bl.nc fUC11
&f
po'
.. ,y noI:,aaI ,,," I
Po.ch ...1_'" .. :>LIM 'Je ...1>...1,
It....- .. ,oy.....
and bnJ,.... Oft'
~n"y.
o'W'd
.. 'h .. I-ll.. ~od..
It
ad.....
.,t"
P ""JIU'''I! VI'<'Vai
...............
pnr
:d
t ..........ad 1ft,.1
...
~ II...-"' ...d
h.u ,on"
Ih ; 1ft
II. on
:.
'....
rl. <'II ,
qwdo
:T:' ......
..-i/Ibo-
&1<""
lm I"oh"'m WI'"
'"'"~
za.
-..
"
I'i.h ~lock
fa p .....,..n Fi.h s"..:k.,..,~
~e
"~lh~ ~"ok,ng n,.cd,,,m tor Io.h and .h"~"'.h, 11 _Ih~ !i. h slock i. ",,, 0 .,,,1,,,..
.. "d 1. pr~J~"ed h'o", "np"~~,,bl." h-c.h lo. h. " "" II hdp r"inlo,. I
">ked
,"or of an inteeo',ll "",uc'c.
,,. t,~ ''''~"+l.
lnronun~tel.". Ii,h .t<",k i. ol'tcn !"ep"<c,1 from ....1.. tish and 011_1 t
lor It'" IonS b<-Iv,-" u...,. Such a ~"",k ""II gtVe any
"",U"",,
'fm"" Ii I.v 1
To prep<lre Fi,h Glace. $C<' page 105, Fi,h g la~e is often u, .. ,1 h' <.. in rant ,h.
n':l\'or ollish ",<u"cs ,hat have h~!!n r.n;~ hc" wuh buller or rcdu~~,1 n m. Tit.
ad,.,.nl"!!! 01 Ii.h gl,,,-c 1~ lh" l " (An lx pr~p .. rt'd ahead of lim. and rell"\g.r~~
unt il nNd.,,[ Unli kclish m",:k. il...,quircs no I...,.t-minut ...,du<li,,". Fie.hp..,.
.hould bt- u....! " ~I)' ~ p.uingly o r i, will !i,'e ,he sauce a 5tmng. Ii..,... WI
'hny co,,,.. ml>"r1lI)' ,- hcl. feel thaI li.h !l~,,'. cven when co""",tly p..,~
and u,..,d . d~era~es korn ehe chara~l"r of a ~;lUce b." IP,-ing;1 a nondescripe lish
The Ircn";n til, line!;1 restauranto i~ to tt;. to ~.. ptur~ th~ inJi,'idualieyllf
1\ bpecil,c Ii,h. wlllth ohe" meant ",'rili,ing ~on,'e"iencc.
''''.vor,
c,ou., fonhrighl Fla'-Of "n.-l is C'" ~llcn1 .... b..f<e for li.h .au"1lS T" P"'i'A"
~up (250 millili!" ....' 1>1 the cooking liquid. pl".-e I pound (500 I!r~m.) 01 !!Ill""
~els. coddu. I,Ir dam, ~nd ClIl" 125 milliliters) of while ",It,,' ;n a f"" .nd
co,'e< wi,h a ligh,-l,nin!! lid Heal If... 1"'( "1' ,he sto,t .wcr a high Il.,,~< ""J
.hake it from lime tn I;mc 10 rec!i"ribuI~ the .hellli,I" Afo.r ~h",n 6 m,nute!.
open t",- li.l. \Vhn Ihe mussel. <>r ,.J.~rn. I...,." aJJ opened. Ihe,V oM)d !>'cooped oul, ~nJ 'h" cooking liqu"l .houltl ~ "r"in"'! lhrough .. !in~ .1"", , or.
,j' th~ hquid .... 'n~8n1t.". Ihm". h """e5<'<'I,,,h, \\ h"n u.ing ~hell", h" 'Iun&.~
uirl", .-c",,,ml... r that th"., "n;o ery ... h.,. "'" .,\'oi" 100 t",, ~h f"I .. to"" aI
arch.. 1 if "tid;" ~,hl"i , onal.al,
Co u r t _ B o uillon
288
II
1"... ........
1. .....
or.::,r(1
tv'r ' 1.0....1 , ~ , ..., ...",', , ' ...... \\
'n 11<'1M'nT<'.Io .......... ,
.In houl.l ",.,ho,~1 ' .... <I u 1, """-l1...
11 .... ..+1<'<'1""1 bo I
I"" '!o~" h>""",_,," '''.ho
I.............. ,,1. ha
It r..... ha I.. 10" -, ..... ". ...." ,1 "',, ...
10. r k
............... , '"1_''''' ,"ok. , b, ,,1""'nM by ..'h". ....
~ .... n-I-..
, ..,.",.hln "h,;ulo..... , l he n ...... . nd, t)Ior,~,~r< 10'''1 .,
1
u,,! .an~'"
,ml''''''''' b, ,uj"hn, in..l, f, 'I I'C"<I or ... ho/.. \.,.
of ~
01. , I .. 10 ......,1, p ,ro! , v." ,hi,,'" ,,,"I I ... h" .. ~I"'.
' _nor
'I '.0 .....1.'........,,-. ..1Ihd........ ',,-..1 ...
...."", ' h ,,~ ....""III. I., , o,;o, . he 1..1. I .... ,"'.... ,hH': .... '" ... ~lu, ... Io.!
.It......
_If
,~~non 111
. :.'nl, ..... 1" ,1.."01" ,.1 d .. po.o.t h.nc l"fUid or ... ..,,~
.......... ,,' .. I 51 , h or 0' 1..-, .hi. k , ~ L"h.-, . ,h, m<"hod. ""'Iu,,..
Ik rif,l, .. , ,..,,, 1M "'" Iont _. ptn .d whd . , I>., 1II.l " r '. I... 'nll'r~ f .. ,It"
n.uon. II I.,..., '" M'~ p<,.., heol ti.... .. it l, Jit\h. br... h-Iok .. ""'n 11.,1. ktf
.... ".., oS " .... ,J.d. a ........ k.b., ""'1 Uuct' I houl,1 boo II..! (...., Chapter 8.
Ba,..d and :-'; '..,1"'.,-.1 I ~, s...lK"C'f" I~'r :iUI) Sonw heh .......he poKh,"I
1...""""
-So""".
l"lui<l'n "' ... ~. a t..,... 10' a ':"I~ lOT ,"" ,,.. ,,1 '~"" IC"
\\ h~" , ,n', 1'1'''1 II.., ''' _ 1.'''1 li<ju,J f", f..h in'o .......... "ia ~ If> _
hin .. ,hrr poa< bn@" liq"'''1 wi,h .1 "u,~ ,hdl to ... ","en made- ,n ad,,,,,,,", Old....
A'C' P" . 'm<'mrl<'S - ..rw COn'lI"n~ lOme of.he p<>Il<'h,... liqui<l ...,d,. fiM
.."tl",,'~ m..&o ... ,aJ'II.nC,;dId ,h"n ",,"u<"Ins: ,I... m.x,,, .... "nul" .... lhe <<>I'n<'t
,."'...., ..""'" :\ ",mIlo. m.. rhod .n 1.0.. ...d tur b"nu or~.... N-ioaucn. U
It... roach"'fI.quKl ... 10 br lin ....rJ .... h bUll ..... " .. brtt 10 pnpaI'l'. bun ...
Iffindl...I ......... (o..d .... t..-", ....... blanc OT <>f\<" 01 ... Mn\o"."'....) and I"~
,t... ..U<~ ...,," ,"" pc,.,..-I..,..- l.quid .h.. r 'M Ii'" .. cooIo..,d ..... btfcn " II
..~ 1... 1.,. WII~. 1..,-mlnul1' .....,,1...... of bull.. r ....10 II.., poM'h.... 1iqIrid II
. vnicW Th..... npn:wlv prank at In fIlA pac-ecI prui","""", oetnnp.
f iah po&ehn,. l.quid ~an at ... Iw mmbin..d "' 1M last mmUile _h ~
....voU,.ancJ..bun..r .......n, ..... h .. hoUandr._ and 'la~ " , . . , - - .
........... 1..1., and bmtt.I,k.. but .nu ruD 1\a...,....,.J U....JIy equal parb
.,.....hing: hqu;.d and .... ulaifwd NUl"e aft' -.l 11w ~ cldw
............an be..divaed by vaJYUI( 11or ...... 01""-10.,.... r.-_
an
or
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I"' .... . "'1 ......... In ,I hi"'"
L
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id
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... '
01
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wh;l~
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.de
,I
~ Thco ~rl ..bkl.J
he
. - ,,,-, I
.. re \ I .or ...... co
nh wed bu 1nAlI,
.....
..el. 'eI "...d) Ii",", goyenM ......-~r. ~
of If'
hAt
,.,....,.de....l
M Rcmtm~ ..... 1' nap AI ......
he
If<
a..-
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..
-.-
lhe lUh. eo I ~
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m<>Vi"lthO' I ma.II,
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l.;t-q,., ~I ..
.nd ""0' '" . Add .1 ~ _
f. r:;o..cum;....I, I
""'d
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<Jur. 3'-
he; WI hlbrw.
,'hoc,
.. ."nnw'
..
Sp
.. , . .. . ...
.oj, ' I ;'_,, ~ Ihe ~"u,:.b"u i l\'ln /l", 1.,.Ii,"L !I>e .~" ... >ning~ il' ne<'eso.o.,.". II
'" I..,-k na1O~. 1L e;ln be ,,,, Iu.-.,.!
.
"oe"
, I'oa,h (h~ ..."lIops'~ !hc n,un.llouill"n <0 " ... I~r, H~a' pori.... If,
,.nn~d ,'cgec"blu wlch d ,.nail ~.n""nc " I ch,. ~ounbc.",I1"n 1h~ ...
a.nd Ch~"''-11. Spoon, ,he ..,,,n"I" "'c" OOw l. or dttl> I'I~c~. a"d; our 1...,'oun.h"u,Jion "nlll 11 ...,/lch,-s h I1",,,.v " I' ch .. .,dn or ,h~ 0<><11: ,'''
ch,' luhcnn<.o "cI!C,,,h1c' an.1 h.rh. al"p ., nd around ch~ .... I~~
Sca ')c/lilops wi'h l3u"erI-: nriched Nltg"
Tlw <,(",king liquid ~'''r ~ca 6,.,1;,,1'"(0. I" "~ge 4'an h~ "on'"~rted incn ~ rich hr"'h
lik~ ""U( C II)' reduCIng n ,,,,,llon,,h"'8 tl wnh hUlt~r_
.
-\fc er. ~cr.. ininl! OUI the, \'eg~("hlu . ~~duce the court-buuill~n by half. II>
.. boUI I ', ~ up. (375 mdloloc crs) ,_ Tu hn .. h th~ liqu,d wuh bUIl~r. hoC"p-rl'<Md,~... can be used. [\ che d,~h" bt-ong prt'parcd aU '" <mc~ ..",I ",.~
11,,01\'.
10 8 ounces Cl25 Co 250 ,rams) of b.""
"""
. limply
~~
,hunks. ;nco che hot liquid_ II the .jish is ~inl! ""....-MI O\'er an Ut>de. ' '....
~
riod. ;.. Juring a ff$taoranl ......' j,.. . iT is b~st 10 whisk ,h. am""
.. nl;cip",,,J for the '~""ice inco a .m~1I ~mount ,,1 [he nase li'luiJ and ~"I'~
,-""rm, Th~ nltge liquid is chen ,'omhin.. d wnh the n~I'.''''l)' amount o! ~u '
.ilied huner whe" the order;. 1'1",,.1, Thi. method;s preferabl. berau.. \bt
ouner is mOre su.bl. in" I.. "" li'lu;d oni"cure. h abu avuids la.cmin"c. ",h; k
in, "I bUller ;nlo Ihe nage, See Lh~ phOIOS ....!lh in Ihe color 1'1",.,
. wh;~k.oj
'Z'iI'Z , .
u ,; t i
--e
LO B ST ER A LA NAGE
II
.. hct
It ....
...dv.." ...~
oulnn", .... ...:>ba.....
... I, .... 1iq
1 ..-1
I""'''
"""... :I
"
...... ""tI:."
I I.
"'" ....
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,-
.. nit .....
"-'-
II
':.In Jba ~" .., .ami ... hlle"" , ... wit
.tIou1 1;' ml _
!)rill 'w XI,.,f 'f ~'IO a
\up
.. n"""" ~ hold h.. Iobt....... [)i.., ...,..J 'toe '-'"I...... fUn.- ~I....do ....
S
un,
tUt:.
un
S., ~
thot
br~11I
.1
~i","
0 a nr . .. I,.,
0
ut n.
hoI '"
:>let n h a._ ,I IOUI' 1';,oIeI' .. ,,1 vl~c, ,/ . , obou..
halved len,th...,se ehe1~'! ,I...... m,.t pt.-I ,,', top- '" ""
.. ~.hle..P
---e
Ilqu"'~"'''''-~''
BOURR 1DE
' . . R",onJ ""ilb J/llyomnniN
" .....
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.on
..... \onl_ _
~ ..I
i"'.... "
If'
.;w.
b.
,.,
0.,
CHtrJn
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\--",,' "nl[ ,h.o'
, .... ,-, ,",
and ..." .... "I'"..,d01. tc..,.w
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..
.,
"
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"
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ko; ,I
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bo-_r han,ftl_I\l'tS...,1
'M
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..
let wr:
iIJCd
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fn
cul'Ii"f up jl.n.nf.1 Jl'CMch I
Ik......
and
from II lal "" I...
n
"'
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..,'0
n nn
.\, (; nr! Nt ,h
""I,n. ~l' .. (
,,)
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IRa"
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a~
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r.u..,"
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ul
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t'C'n.h~ ......,1
In
ill
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of
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he
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h.
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"
I' 295
BR ,\I S I NG
Fifh i. Lr,,;, ....! It., n.ok,ng i, in a l.imn".1 ;LJ1l0Un, of liquid. In Eo.! """
""""n'i.al d,fl~''''n< ~ betW~~ poa<h'''8 .. nd hr..i''''I!!:'' th" ~m"unt oil
\\'hn li.h l~ I'..",.-h..,d. 11 ,~ c<>mrl ... ,ei" ."I"n"rg~d in h", r . I oq",~ "'"
.
U\U" _ \l.h
b"'i.~. ,he li'I,,,d .h,~uld "om" onl.I' h"Uw".\' "I' ,h~ .idu of ,h~ ",10",,.";' ~ ..
fish hll ... ,s. TI'I''''~'k
10,.1. to "'" lm),,~d '" 1)lac~d ,n ana, C,",.
I .b,
.
.
;tln~r I""" r
~h"pc "" du>..!,\' ;,~ PQ~",l:.k n,~I~h .. ped Ii." pan. wurk e~I"'c iall .
' " '1>
'h
k
1:.011
.
,\ "'.I1I""h
Liq".'J ,u<-h .'-" Its MI)<. coun_ .. U' 0". whue Of red "" ne , '" ,10<\11; h <~
Ing hq",d IS add~,II" ,h" pan u"ul n c"n'~. haUway up ,ht Ie. "f ,h.I;,h .
pan is then pi", ,,,,Ion ,he s'ov., and ,h" 1"1" ,01 qu,,,kl,, brou,ht 1
~
.".,It.
,i.
"a .......... \,
s~n a..' _the li'l"id ~~ .immenng, ,he li,h is 1""",1.\' "ove,....J ....i,h a..h 'ft F' ~
m",u m 10,1 or I.~'r,-hme n ' pa~f aQd plil{'~,1 ,n a moderately
"''n. Wi tn "o.
lish is ~ooke,l ,I $hou ld ~ qU I~ kl.v fra n, le 'Ted to a pla'e or pl~"er "hil. ~ ""CO
I.",
In ,r~di';"nal Frend, recipes, I;,h i~ more Or!~n cooke'! an.! ",,, .1 ",!wi.
:"lowarlav, mam' ,-hh prefer 10 u"" fillcll. which Me c~"Y for ,he ~U."''''~ IQ
. d-'
, . J.
d
k
. ho'" to wn" hite~,. '\\'~o\' "I<"r~, ~~I",,,ia1k In ,he t.:ntl~' S'iltt'S, 0 nor no"
And i, i~ ~h,'" no, . ~'<tnomi'callv pra, ,i,-"I In ha"c d wili,,,r "on~ .I~ fi.h",,"
side_ In ,he traditlo ....1 parlan~e 01' Ftcn,h class;,' cooking. Ih~ ",,.,,. ~ ..
u....J ,,1, I.....,h"l" I;.h .... he~i<S ,h ... "xl'r~won m ,w"'" ",fen I" ,h. ~~
of 1111,".: T" aJ,!,,, rhe ,:oolu,;",n :\m."i, .,Il ,-hef. "lien call ,he ~n '"'U'.., ''''
ni<Jut' -- .h~IlO\, I""" hing _
""",,ce
,,,II,,,,...
It"'.
all
IN
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tly
rom t
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ar .....
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ot SoI.. I"'n
r ...... ,oaIna.; .
u .,nd,
....... tocL
;...ona"dulI~
IL
\ I .,.,
..r
J.. n ,-""roll,,
BRAISED W
COCKLE
HOLE FLATFISH WITH
S AND NORMAN BUTTER
1\0
Iiqwd ~ ,.
but...
"10th.,
C'lI<:k"" ,.".
.... n
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:l P... .he ... ,nc ... :!. . hal , u
I ::.r" <eD0UI' 10
Ri H Ih, roc kl ... and a,!.Ilh.m' o Ih PO" C. ,tl
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oor
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n...n- .... ho"..-rr "'ttt-ox!. ,hal <a" Iw "toed 10"""" (..hand .. rt.._
rime c;.pIU"~ Ihe l"llnd .... k _1 by 11.,- ti.i.h dun"l cooli", tor all InlO'paIy"".
The tim 1ll,,1 "" CI ,,bVOC'''' method 1S.llhpb '0 p"1 a vt'fY ...,.JI ........ III ~hq
uiJ iIt 'M A.om~l .n.t Ihrn t o".... " ,h.. I'qu,,1 al Ih~ ~nd of CI"IOIUIIf onloa IaIK"f
Th,. i. Ib~ tn.' ,hod ,>H'<Ilor 51....",'''' muuel. _thY_ T1w diudvantap IOIIuo
m....""d .. lhal " '..,.111," ,"DA;>nl poun", ,.r 1M-liquid I...... 1M boI_ J. do<
_"""" aod rTl,l .. n.d..", of Ih~ 1.......1 for NCh bal.'h 01 r.... 'I1ti. -W.
ntRh pUCl lC.aI In P"'lnAO....1 Wftl.... n... mhO'!" di ...... v.an.....,. I.... ~ ..,
tn ~ Ih~ ott'arnu <\In ,Iry. n.un.., both ...aml"lliquid and 1M fioh.
A.non pt"iIIO i,aJ onclbod lor .... m."I Ii.h oalO cool. 1M ti.h .. arifhdy-
."'~I
~ F.....
c.II_"
bul II OJ
pnrtietI- ;
Ihtl'l II....... ,11 <~Inbul". dntrahle lla...,.. 10 Ih~ linoato..d ... _ _ ... I.. uid. ..... roM _oel. <oun.bomlion . ....d .... wh'I .. ...-. . . . .
s... ......
aJw.ad nt , .....,) i.k . vod bHr 0.... .. 1M lio.h ............ n . - be con....ned Inlo .............
..
Thll""il~ ;!lus\~"'~" how 1\ .,eaming liquid c;,n b~ converled into" ,""Uoe w,.h
,,'Iltl" ~nJ 113vo,..,J wnh curry. The ",c'...n"'~ liquId ~an "I.." he con"cneJ in,<>
~ ~ .... u''''11 any "f the me, hod. lur I'n,.hlng fl'Ollching and b"";"'ing 1''11nd .
n" ItChni,!u" ,an ~ used rOT I'rac"""ll.v an.\" fi.h
--
te 2INSPOon.
,"rrl (IOonl('l"
leleo "l"rt
II..., (lOpped rilan!'l'
5 to 10 miUIIIINS
IS
"uoc~
"t>l1~tlull'"
ill
250!r>lllilit-
"
,
t lab!
1fiIeO aulW
45 millil,ters
.. I,
30milli ,
~1@SPOOns
to
t"Iast!"
)(\1)OIlPft"
to las,
Qr~m'
3 tallbe5poons
f"l
las!~
I. Po
limn
\I
'0.
':T.
2. Ilru.h .he m.id" of the stc;un~r h..,1.el wnh melt<"<1 bun"" Sci Ih~ li.h Ii
I... in i,; m.. ke ~ore nOne 01' ,hem o .... rial'_ 1'1",(" ,h~ ~kel on ,he 51C~me'.
3, Co"tr. and cook Ihe !i,h I'or ahoul 10 minulel per inch (2.S em) ollhi,1.
n.SI. hUI {h~,-k them hd'ure lhi~ mu~h lim,' h,,~ "In!"",,d in <.""" lh~'y M'
dn". ""'ncr. (In racl. i. i~ a lIoud ide" 10 I",..-e th~m slightl." und.:nlonc.
"",,~~
is being
I'n'I~I",d 1
~. I,'.n.lr< 'he fi.h 'Oa plate." k~,,1' "'ann whil~ prel';1t"ing Ih~ ulle.
!i,
."
,.,
...
309
mon '~'~I
__ .. M~ pari. cuI ,nto
caro
~t
2 poul'l(jS
hn~
,utielllM
l!l<!<I,um
_'k!4
m_
iI",
2'j,
larraQon teaVl!S
"
dry
~ermou tl1
unc~
6 tablespoons
"
"
~.
9(1 mim"t~11
OltjQ while
Preheat the oven to 350"F (17s"c) ell! (he salmon On a hi ... int" 1> ......
pon,ons.
2. Cently sweat ,he julienned leek , ,'arn,t, and wrnip in I .",n,e ,3IJpamo)
01" Ih~ butle~ until th~.\' ..,h~n. 1.1,11 do not brown.
C... b sh""t;. <)1 pMChment i""p<"f. 11'1 x 18 inches ('15 X ~s m)_ .\,,...,.
ea"h wmon pi..,~ sJi,htl,\' tn the righl of cenl"~ on a "'luan "I "..,..,~,..nt
pap"r,
Spoon ,h" juli('nnc..l ve~l .. hle~ "ver each pi"'~ of ... lmon. Plaee AbI.
~poon (, milli!;I" .... ) of b,,!!er <)r herb bu (( ~r alOp ~;,,-h_ I'lact.3 1.""4""
leave. on lOp of !I.e bUlter un ca~h <"f'\'ing, Spri"k(~ ""..I, ...... ,ns ""h
"b",n I Illhl"'pu<l" of ""rmou,h
5. Light l." 1>.,"1 the eBB "hil~ ", th~! i, b ....ah up. bu' ,j" "(0' ~ .. uoe j, 1<'w~,,<
~
Bru,./, the OU'''r ~J8'" ollh l'~n'hmen1 IMper oquar6 wid, the~..... ,J.
rold O"..r. and """I them h.... rnR~,nl!' ." ... ri~s ",.'"a,sl" 1<.ld~ ........ .i
...IS" of .h~. rap<'<. Bru~h ,h.- f"ld. WI,h "U ",h"l' " nd "",ke
J ..
(. 1.(,. II ,~ .mper-ativ .- , ..... , th~ r~d< ..1 b., perfa'li.v ..,al'" n.e fi '"'" 1
plinkS .houfJ Innn h;dl _~ "d _
310
~,
I~'~~ ,I,,' l'apill"'~' "n ._ ,h~<, I'~" ,n tilt" oV"n ""HI Ihry pull (It i. dilli.
I', -~h '" dcnn"l< c-"", d., "ht" 'ht 1,,1, '. do,,~. ''','' i. ~ g<><><1 id~., II, , ....
;,... ,,' ,,,,, ,M .. d".,nct hI de'en"",. ,-, " I.. ,k'ng tlm .... 1
rho 1'"'1'.11,,'..' "r<" I"," ~'" op.. n '" 'he tI""Mg ....... m" i.h k;-. .... an,1 tt~n,.
I<,..".I'~ h... pia'.' In I..."" "I II,.. ,!'nt . rh. nMu,,,1 iu;".,. ,n , ....
,.f.h< r>",hmen, J"'J'<"t" .~, ~ 'r, 'P"'""t<l OWe, Se.- ,lot" ph<>U>gt"aph in 110,
l...,,,....
"'~"'- pl."...
NG ;\\ETIIOOS: F I S II STEWS
CO,\\ \J I j\" I,
1'h. ,Jint",n," b~tl"ecn " ,"~h 0..'''' "'HI ;, .,up is "Ii~n dillicul, '0 d~!in": 'ho
"'~" ''''I",rt,1n' J,(1'"r"'''''''' ,hnl 0""1''' u.""lIy ~a~t" lugher 1"Opt>rt'"n 01' '''1'
ui,1 ". ,,,h,1 .han do s,ew" a'",a"~.- SIt'WS ~onl"tn I,,~. 1,<)u,J, ,h~.~ may ... I.() I,.,
"'",.., i",ldl.,.l1a,ured IMn !IOUI"
rl<e ,~hl~on page 312 prov~,le. a ..,nO<' or ,he tli,,,..,,il)' of /i,h "'eW ~ci,_,
",,...... t~i.' al",O$' as man.'" .'an.."u 01 Ii.h "~"-s as Ihe .... "'" "o",bina,i"n' fil
Ii.h. muO! of ""hi~h ar<" ,h .. nalural Ou'COme of combining ing.-edi .. n.~ ~\'aa.bl.
,n. f"'"ic"lar "'gion. although many of the ~'.:lf!'e' of p....p"Fil1ion ..re ,h....._.
T1>e mpJ~, lish Sfews ...... "",de by I;,.,., pn:paring ,an ~ma.'ic liquid wi,h veil"...bb such ". onion, garlic. and lenn .. l, ,he Irimm,ngs !roIIl Ihe Ii.h. and wio ...
Whon Ihe n~"oro of Ihe "cgel"bl,-. jlnd 1,;,omin8" ha"c infused in ,h~ ,,inc. ,hr
l,quKl i. lhen "ra;ned in'o" 8Iraigh . ~ided ""ucepan, and Ihe p'~c~. of Ii.h are
,hen po;[ch.d in Ihe liquid. When ,he li.h i. lilli.hoo poaching, i, i. 'emovt'<!
wiln a skimmer and kepI warm while ,h .. pollChing Ii"!,,id is co.weMed inlo B
.. uct In Iradi,;onal Fren,h ,<'eil'''' where red wine is used. beUIT" man;~ ;s
",,,,I "hen u.ed. bm mor<' modern ve"iuM will oflen simply reducr the cookillf liquid ami finish it with bu" .. ,. While wine-based r..sh SleWI ~ mOlt "flrn
!i..iWd ";Ih cream or a mulu .... of c .....am and egg yolk.; .
.\hbough 'ra<litionall"<='Ci~ for f",h stew. usually lugesl poachin( Ih .. f..h
in. p",,,,ad .. aromatic liquid. this m ..,hod is otten imp~ in .. profCPional
WIling bec.. use ~ucing ,I... po;aching liquid ukes TOO Ions. It is ""'''' practical
'0 P"'p.ff Ii,h """,""5 10 order by rooki", Ihem in a Ii&:hdy COVi'~ pan with a
......tl ~"'OUni of arom .. IIc liquid lha, has been rrdl1ced in advance. In this way
11>0 pi.N!. "f fish ",leaae flavorfulliql1idl inlo the surroundina aromatic hue,
and liulf if any redutlion i. ""tftllll)' befo~ convertins Ih~ liquid into a saua!.
l"e p~P'l~ Ii,h mw H> order, il is best 10 COOk the' preeut pjec.es of r..h in a
~ JMrI with a small amounl of appropriate liquid (see the ~ of
it""'l'under "St..am.ins,w pap 3(8). In 'lOme ea-. .. for Rad W"me ~
(~31,.), ~ an ~ red wine redurtioa 1ft advuce and ........ it
:;-: the fi.h iI_ aeel&eat..tbod Wbera the pieen of &.II are o::aobd. da.y
be quidd;y ~ to hot pW. or bowk; the IiqWd reI&I!UIIIlJ'l dw
"""a.lhaa~mto.
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he uti
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I. IINI t~ oI,~., ..I,n" ...., ~pu1 br,.. en.,."h to hoJd Ift. ..... id.uod.dd ..
'UTOI. On,on . ....d ,.arlo. Owr mo:odium I...A!. pnlly cook the ~
unulth"." .. .tt~n "nd I"htl", brOl'n .bout 10 minutn
:\dd thr tqu"I.,,,llUrn thr h".1 ttl hi,h. Stir tI"'lIqllid _nd .. dwv ~
IN.. hqu;'1 a",1 lu-.-f' <>Vr' h"h he'''' un,a all the IlCfUid .......... .t.u"am .. I,~ Oil th.- bollom.nd ,>de. oI,f1t, pen. Don 1 .... n bum
\tl,ll~ r...J .. ,.....nd ,,",I.. In It", ~ pm. sa.- for .... 45
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.,.,_--"""""
,;., .x.l .....,. ( >Od -q...... y .......... and
,II .1_
.n..bI v '"' _
,I. fta, ., II ilia),' .... _. If II
.-..- lUlrS
ry add"" , , - """ iii...,..... Thry WI 01'1 1 Un ouilM 11.., ..t '"" ........,..,..,.... ,...... u<.
r~,' t'
_
In.h Iwrb ...., MOblte1y ....-I &I ",dlabl.. campi< XII) ) .. Ii".. Md .."" They w,lI ott.....
,h.. ,1;t1. .......~
_
..... y I'
h.~
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"*"'
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,\\u.h...
,I..", "'1""1. .rum.. JOlt. Ii, 1. >If ,""""""'" ,v
... ,11 u ...... I1~ 1" ~ ..... m'"~ compl,,,~ . . ,., ' .. ne-: dim~1 mn
.-\.. lra~
. . II
Y
u ... l,,......l
1.. 'UK~ ...11 ... a
,"-<0)' III
..l...
ial1y in ("old uu("~.. ..-h" h
.,. M
III ... """'" ,
\\1" ....... Ii...! n..~ 0 Ih~ ~ ...."..,.....,.., .....y
an
coIor...J IL It .... ! aof)eO
...... a..-a)' bv add',.
~nd
has .. :ltl.. ~ b.r<
100 tun. ,hi CJ
.,.. a d.n ,.l,
IU; j
!rUnk
. ." "
n.........
n...,..,.
>rnt.Ino..,
_
II
It a<
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ml sh _
...... liquod,
lOOk,,,,
I
dM'fiUJ..:I
......... ~,dd 10 ",hi II . . ,. .., ..... mb..' h" _
1;P1T'
h al. CO"
... ur ... h'I'P
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h<I l f,
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...
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am
h .... n
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~
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.m
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ph
:Nh
lal
be-
",hi
p.1-rrJ
rn
0 ,"upped
t.c xro
1'1
~uuranl
'VIC
BUTTER SAUCES
bUtll"'S.
11.w{)rlu\\iquid
l."
IS
11so in
.\~ bf,urrr blanc be., .. m.. lin',I......m bl,. ......' in ,,,,nt.. mporary I",d.., 'ltd.
l,h .., II. I<,< h"".lu<, u_1
...-h,1' \1,. "lice I"'" UI rmul""n ( , _ ..
-.,.) .... .p, " hk 10 lin ..Jm ' ,,,Iinl'" Yalle-ty 01 ....ue .. b6x .. LncludL"I1<"
."d:",,..,' ".,,\wl,n....UC'rll.
- - --
.t,,,, "
_I....
d..
~
,....Ii ....
"'~
~r
'0
,.,,,,,.1
"''''.. wh,ch i. ,,,~,:k trom &r"l'u ,...,..n '" IhI' .ru .urroulllli", I.... <Il) 01
.... oiI"" "I' I' '"&n('e' \14ntic cnasl ..\\u....Jel hu Ihr cOop. ,.....n /1o,....-..,d
.acidic Np HM'nl.;d 'v" .lK'ttMf.11 ~1Tf blan, If :'o\'"<:adrt ,. u~&iIohIo
dwr "',
used. bL>' ,I only will ... ~'Oownlllf ft!.JI\'It!) hm...odin In
. ,&11.1,1, ,I may be p~ ~ . .M" t_ drops 01 add,tionaI "'nrc.... up 1i,.. ..
Ih.. ,n,l.
The '''Ii 'I'" 'Ml f"lloW). conta'". iI .rnall amount of hl'.vv c......... ..1Ii<1L,},.
,hou&b no, UHnll.,1. will hrlp
,h.... mul,io", A"...; ck.l ..yth'"
","""n,l. Ih .. addi"on ,,11M- bunrr ,0 Ihl' 14vo.r baH Mlln.V "u,han
,h.c bulk' f ... addrd ,n My ''''' .... IMP, . .,(,.. " Iink .. a
hwr ) ill a IIm<. ovw 1_ twill. and Iml,ly ,hal tiw"IK'I'..iJI break if ..,..
.. added any 1_1'1" In t.zn, Ih~ b .. lt~r .an t... cut 11>10 ~ ..... 1'(about I
hI2 " em on .....-h ,.;d.,l and ad.kd all orK'I' uv ........ lit
~e:n...., noc.o I~ ",hiP., ... ,,"d nOC 10 kI dw uUC*' boiL~
......
~dckd at thr ..".1. r~I'"o.wly. I ,......poon (5 milJa.u-n) ala-..a. II
2, "P' (!lOCI mlllol<k ... ) of .....-.., bu l d,p",. toda) ofkII fUtd tbiIr .....
100 mu<h
,..a" ".,
Ut:e.,
.,art
iM1OI-
~ (I!O~
I""
lI'
rftIIIt
.'
.,
_.
lOG .. ot
. ..-
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nt)
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-open...., beu,....
blanc prep&n'd
.....II " .1 ",... , for wvo.1
If ..jd
h...
0..:.10
""
1ft - .
poIo- .......
...
....t.o"
A ..... ..,.
,I...
JI
""".~
_!:...I.t.tI
,..put. (
b.d. of , ...
'" If nee -.y. he
nber-aced..hoc ,.,..
\I
bet ""
held r. any lenctl
,,,.... d .-iI1 bep to ,horllu .....
_ be
,d p"flD<I""
"'1I:h h "" er"'~ at,.,.. 'OlIn bouillon. or ..........
"PI'
""_ If .. IlOl hid
.nJ ." -red
_,,,,,'el.l- ..... ~. :Ill m,n
T< b...
Ilrn"-rn b- -m h
.n .... ,~p;t'r..d 1;.;1' whiok
01 ,nl
I<
.bkspoo of ... <llKed ...., ere
bu, i& In .... don .. only
l.eft~ bc-u ..... b at
.-f
holLond&lW or ~~
... _
on ftc. JlO
i.1I
,
",alo.5 comp~1y .nd ........... III
.. _&nll.ar=
n be
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At
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arm
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on"
1\0 '"
..
....
rr"
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lend....11 ""'... r
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all
TO "
,1- .. hn I",,,~ nil n II :m I"'.... ",pt.c wow ... I
hI! .haJlo!>'u
he
.a,," ,,,...
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10 beum
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"
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10'" n<>1
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"rac1r1 '"
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01
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lUI or
r \\~ I"'.J _
_I. ...... aoi~ do:ri
WI"" wn
,0/1
n
help ub 11<' t'.. .oioa. t
Iwnd.. lor r tal "f _ m I..
... IOi<'"I hq"" ....
... tuUM
1.0
'2on)llS
IICk,)I"
lOOk'..,
.,h .....
... .....
-.~
bn
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r...... 1
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"
4'2
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of ....cc
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,h ""'"
."
but ..r
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q
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"
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.... them
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t!
II-
buu
~ .......... 01 .''''
pan",,",,
bum...l
.,vaL
.. F;ol
n
413
"'..""w. . (: "'.t..
.,
..."
boo .. '" ..."1 ,, rod
,.. 'f"""
.Apc
..... abrt...
P ....
...k.,I.1 :U
Mgte: 'J'hc, ,.,,,,,, I" K an Joe
J" h,1
boo ",n
....
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I. 00 hOI
.... f"
....... 11
,
1I~ ... rr
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pt"",,"'"
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.,
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....
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.ad'" F fIa........
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.. an r.pKwly....
t ' n " " ' , C. iW1 .....,
....ch Ii.h (...... .aiL ,ka.... ~ a1.
IKe For pM. ...
:-lO..... " ' ,
",In
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nd
11..
.... hil.".
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pr_
CO.'II'Ol':'>;D BL'TTERS
Com ....... nd
p .... , _ I b....
wlK',
.t'..-~J. ..,.,
h..,.. , "'Snahl.. I,un
rI. ~
I",
!'.-d...'P"
".1. Th"V c h .weI:y II
I,," ...
'...to. and '"',..Qbl..... IW"I,J n ilt ,I..... n,1
pkl "~'-11' ,.. pIt_.
h oft.... ,,>n\?n,e ..,
J, .... ,
I bu- ,01', uti 1..... 1b ''0'
.... ...",",... Th..
.1'
r. h..rI, ... ., ... ' i P(
,"IS SIIch
Ir .... a..-
&I
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414 IA
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".
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.lor", ;,1.
I: .. ,.......... "" ,.
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"~"
J.- n
r,, t""~; ,h"u]'1 br <.,,,,b;ned wi,h a, I~A" "ne-,hird ,,] thrir "'0; hI in hu
,,..i"l! ",h,.~~d ,n'o .. "'''0''.
II
.
",r loel"'" ",,,I """"n< ...,.,-.,.j O""r grilled or ...
mnt
f h
c."nl'"
Th I i '
1
or " <.In b.. pre
",oJ in "n~ "I ."-u ",-"yo. , r ''''''' I" <0 I th. ""h"""d cbmpoun.J bun"r ,~
<,~, or .lu,nlnUm 10,1 to I:~ A <ornpan <.~I,ml .. r_ The cylinde, of hu"", "
h." <hill.,;! and ,h,-cd 1n'0 n"'''~Il,re d,,~" "n.l 1'1"""d ove, ,h. h"t mu, or li.h
'",t bel',,'" ,c,,,ng. rh" ."cund rnNhud '~to "'~rm ,he bUller s!ightly And ,h~n
:,,,,k il wi,h ",,,-~,dcn ~p,"IU" or ~"~n wh,p" :'"'"'' " ",hi~k_ Avui,l "",,""'orkinl!
th. bun.r. or " "",II de,"':p Itn unplea ... n, d,,~g'nl! recl in ,h" mouth, "1'1.. fla.
,'a' of ,he bu""r ",elr ",U "I"" I":,,, "'m,, of ," lin~. Workhl or ",h'l,!>"d
<"",pa,mJ b~"e ... are trAd",onall) .er... ~1 00 'he .,d" 'n a .... uce bo..,. hut '<Ido':' chel:' ".,11 oh~n pu, ,hem d,~tI.'" on ,he m"at Or r..h .
. C<>ml"'und bU\1crs"'~ also "-5"lul ... a decora"v~ and n...'-o,t'ul IIni.h for ho'
~"J
,,,f,od
",up!.
The flavor ba.e /'or compou"d butte ... ",as tradilion.~I\y prcp~red with a
and p..lle ~n{l ,hen u"u.-Jly $lrained throu!!n II I',nc-meah drum .ie,,, Ar.
t .... be-ing combined with Ihe bUller. TodAy a food prnc~ .. or i. ",,,a1!y u""d
in,,<~d or ,hc monar and pe.tI~. bUllo obt.lin a pcrr"",uy smoolh In.u. a line.
~ drum ';~"e i~ otil! """cssar)" for st.aining Ihe butler At
end.
Compound bu"~1'5 ar.. ".]moo;1 alway. K.;uone...l will. ....h and p"pper_
R<-c ..... val)' and ."gg~' anywh~u from Yo ,ea'poon 10 I table.poon (3 10 15
millili,,,,.1 of line .alt to I pound (500 grams) 01' butler. If a whole ,able.ponn
;, used. the butter will be exfremely wlt}-,: this i, appropria,e only il ,h~ bumr
is being used n. Ihe only sealKln;ng on grilic(1 0' deep.fried roods. Cayenne pep.
",ol1.r
u..t
p'r. "';ne \'in~gar. and lemon iui~e w;1I ohen wake "p Ihe l1avor of ~ "ompound
bun~r,
C~an bulle ...... wh;ct. au e<>mpound bulle .... are found in Ct....pttr ! I.
T"'<!Mean Sam',
. page 325.
....,1,,1.
-1I.w...J8ultu
r-oody grind;) nun" .... (150 grnm.) 01' pede" and lightly ,~,ed ;J,n('ln,h,n ~ food
Pl'lX~ for:, minutes ((hi. sounds lilte;, long time bu, is n,,'-tuary '0 Beh,,"'"
th.ngh, t.~lurd, Scl'al>\' Ih" in.id. w"ll, ul' the loud p.oc~r I'ron' ,im"'o "me.
rn nd,n8 umil a _mooth 1'....,.. i. oL....ine.l -\old 1:1 uunces (2!iO gram.) 01 ,-"Id hut.
ut ,n,o lui, I" .he almund f"lS'''' and rroc"$$ ,hl' .nixlure u",,1 ,t t~ P' leed)'
415
.,'
[R
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'-'
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III
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d .....
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at
..
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f.
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II1II
* ...."' .
.JLuItt
S ... Jhl",""
:>pC'<I pan.~ ....I? ,." '-'I
110_
s..uon
...... will. ..n it. P"'PI'"' 0:.. n 'J'"
~.....,..,..... 10 II b l~r.1o .. II ,I..... hr ..".-.din n
_ rn. ltr.
, .., w"Ac
1RMTOo" U><I
-...
..bInpocr'
w-
a"ll1Inrn,
.u~
... fuodpn _
~ 1'''
-40
.....-_1'"'1....
a_I oil",,,
.,1
Jf,
!to"
~(
-.
ant... .. ~u
d.
"r
5._
.... _
"
.....
"ullrr
I t bull... .1........... i
all m~Jil" ..... ) ;och 01
v.
tarr...,...
oIt
.Jan.
4,.,t
"I,~...,
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I
III
IOod
...
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un
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.... III<
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...... a:
.. ",,""'~
lof'L "rr Oil""""'. ~
II< II"" ....
1 ...... "rbull
I +on!.lr~ '''f.1 b ... tI_,h ........
,.."Fot ..
a: oIio:~ "" If h .. If .,1 hUI .., :II" to. ,art 1,.1. Ian 1, '" < be- ._
poI'''!
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ct....
per
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obI.:Jy."
_I known"
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aa d thor.. .. a<
.... 1M.=nl lo;lt!.t ~N c.n1kd "iI'j' WI h I.. h fn"......
..... In
fra~ &I :I ........ I'K ,Iy k 11 "!I 10 ... ,n .br L n~ S,.",.. Work II
tZ ....ama) LUll ...... to
P (1)(1
, .... ) I>f fi
y' hop ,..1,"'nI.y .... 1
-roa \' '"
I,mon ICe $r
ht' 0011,... .... h ..11 and Pll
lUs II
S-
:11,,&
;oH "
~.I'" 1t.Ju-,
......~
hitbun .......
on
:01
~-b
".~
!'II
bull
j.,..
.. ,
N'l1>e
an
aIr. ... Reduc C1
.h I m,n ... 1 .&Ir o!
.,.d 5
:ood p
m,xtun'" &I
....
ou(lOn:
lind~
r ... '
of
I"....
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bun ...
0' h.. dUl,. conIl
XIII"
.or. II u.
01 h.. 01..." oil ........ ,.'
nc' ."" I.
frnm bu
.th poni<>
1
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'f''''
to'
II:
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k~
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11
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.... n ......",,,,,,h \,I.l l _~I"It""nc.(l'l 'o~O . ...... )
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r .... ,onaIr'f"' mlnne4oJn''ft,lll5,u. l) ofhnhh'.d"n
8
.. ~ (: iO sram,} <>1 h"I\., t~a,,,,~1 ,hrough a ,irum.. t. Th;. an., .".
.,AI ~ Ii aI I~ tnl., anI. (~n .how that II ...., n On) an .n.... ,-...
,.;.;..1 ....." ,1 .... 1Ii IS cantu" In " ..... bTldy. I., ......... ap K1t.0I but
et" and otII .... II
....... m~. in a 1;P. lIC'al,..\ r..-nh
."sh"\lm.... n..
1 day .h.. " 1ft' will _I. of ..., lrune. an.;: an _
I'
~ foadI
It I've an
~bh
,"" ... com~
'0"" ,. ........
ICC
.. ways. 0....,
iIIf .... how ,My ~
Coral )Utt~" . , ~ AI "'" ... ~
,nish ..
d." ~w _
"""plv
10 b. l..! \\ lM-n d ..... nII'd
.. hod with a;; .qual am'" I
i- rhll!f' and r<l ~ ..
_ . When
..1 bu un are ta"W<I ....n all:
.at -m 1O
vi ..J fiola,.., e. bc-h" ...r"r 10 cooIt M .. for..
~ ... "'" I,," ..-ofl.
~ , . . ...... IU fl;aw :or.1 WI " ........r,
haw ....,...- ... bt~
.. brict"
,~
wt...
10
alw.,..
cor
:>rr~ ~ bu.
.ablv I...h. So.
raW CI ral, 1!SJ><"il.l!y lob ,.. _~l.
,..tI&bI.. and II ;ouid ~...... will \ou.1"I of I; '''I
lob
... ~ raniaMd -...1 ('Or bul do
'M sa ....
11.lVor
"',.., M
,h.,
p""
.n--
:>oil or II
'D
:::-:al WI "MfUIaIl
po .....
0.-.
ror..i :-.,,' only I' :0..1
becau.... OfIIT __ In ...
.MIl.
ohudl ~ ~''''''''
L 'PI
f
h.. oc
.., ... n
J...
...,u' .....1." ""ha' ,hO'
tw ... '" d ..~, .. """ ... ~!.
briel\!
tI
I'
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Whm r.. ""
>po..~ ..............
.. ,n
-.J.,...
:oftV',..d 10. com. nod b -w...,...
~ 10 fin
, ....
..
Tla .....
h,... 1",,,,,1
"I"
,bo;
... ~iLo
"'1-
\..a......
.. ... ,..nll
.,..... bull
uniu""'''bft
I>
....."'
...... . "
."''';0' ~ ...
_.
'I"
.....
n .. _, .... AI ~ iu .r"....
.......elve ...........1 "'~II ~
~, Some ch.. h
""'.......d AI ....It .. WI .. I"",pfiol., De
,I
""".on<! h~ ...,
. 10", ....... hi, I: b m~ ... Can b
.... 0:110.....
II
r.
m.
,ld": y.and
pie",
r.
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bo,l 101'", ookrn& ,IM-~. Pull off .. n.! d ....ant ....y .,...d ok", diaP'c 111
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pWru. and I,~r onlO n>U(hI.v _;n<h (5 ...... ) piKn.
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S. ir 1h.. <h",oped dud, inlO 11M- ...,~ ... Ju" \.>efoft """"" ...- .. w;.h ..11 and pqoprr. T_IM"Y' wllh It.... bolIed...dclniMd .......
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TOMATO SAUCES
Italian cooIuo ..... _
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ASIAN SAUCES
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\llhouJh ,I;o..h,' "",W'nIII":V moIV .urpnM' \\nn-rn-'~"""! cook.,..-ftc. took ..
1"\"I".on and
'0 dIStill the 11~VQ" 01 .' JW"",ul.or rood ,nl"" bru,h .,,' ",,,...
_III t.ok ... only abou. 13 m,nulr. 10 .....1.. and I.. "d~ norll ." ,1"',., ""bll..,.'
Only 1wI;. i~;~nll ..... n ....... led '" ,nak.. J.:uh. dri~1 bon"" (a r..h ck-h
r.4,od 10 ,u .... ) .. n<i *",,10.. ... "aMlO1y "I krlp wl,1 ,10;.,..1,,, lu,,! At;", Bmw' .1...
"roN f........1.'''11 duhi i. ,Jowly .",,1 ur..tull) ,I, .etla",1 """h.] un'" " .hnnl..
_11<1 ~'" Into ........ th,'" look;", , ..u.. '" 1,1... &II ",..-tnt'" h.ana"a lou' w"h
u.., 'UIU'" of vrood In , ..........' 1f...t,,,.,,..IkllCh...... Ih.. hard .. n",d hunk .,r
'-it.. l.t~ ....... "J .. 11 .. n......trtl "" .. plaM-I'h I~ w"h a
dn..... _Iwd to ,I. baM" Au, ... _~I.oY"... , ..n M'nou~ .1 ..1'''- .ook' ......
,t.. ,t.. flavor ". hAnd ....."'.1 I.... ~.'o ,\aIo...... ~I..r ofI.. n 1"'1\ . : : :
~ ...... Bon.to tlakn.""'" /;..,.-' ..-1 ,m .t.t- , ...... ook1,n ,...1.... M
"me
tt
iMran<lloolc
." kwt"'" 01
Jc., I m'
.... ~ br"
- ' I _111 _ II.. ill' d.uh.
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,.><:! "....
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to"."
I0O\I W\JC'
....u -.pM.-
eM,.......
s",,~"";;~E""~~""""'~~;~~~~~~~
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....... """"" ... ..........
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- ). .-d-I.
r.J,
wooU -0
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co..... I I . "
............
S. 1'Ir. "p;,.,.o1
!HD BROTH-LIKE
,\Ii." ,,,,,"',1,.... "'''F,lr ,,,.1 "''',..,... "1<1", .. ,, I.. II.., ...,,,1""11 h'I"'.I ...... m li.l, ",,,I
oheI1t-..h, KI...,. ,n """d. h,,,, ,., ~,. ,h." "" ., " ...........1", ... " '0.,511,. ,,_I .......
,,,,t:., "'l .-c....IIv W'I'~ 'M ...hy """'''f liq,,~1 r""" . ~". or on".... n ..
""h ......... "I ourn,u""h"....."... 1 .... h~.1 .. "h ....... "nd .~.,tlli.h~=..d
b..~h ,"n M ....... I .... nh "'" li .. ml1r.~ ..tlli~h, S ......... h_u lu.vt. 1_ f'AI'N
.,>1 and.)04) ...... c:.p.eal.l.pann.. ,,,,n.,u,.. a. l"II,.n\ "' ...rnr ... ,,, ",.,,' 'I";"
...ill at.. ....,n. ",.. .... orolish ........ may ..... b..,t.ud .....,h 'lrlW(ll" Sw<~
(J"'I" :it"), If d." '''f""..hrnt unoun'. ,n ,h.. ""'"'p" .... lwolvcd (c ..~ ,he cw...
....... 10 In ...... diah ... orlo.......11 ..... Ii,.. ....,......
!ltUlflKI. ,~ .. !o<IUtlON
. . ~52Q)
~.. stNU.61c>a
0<III'I(6
(f7';tc>2'SOwltll1)H<:"
or 'ft'Qttolbif ""
WfItI'o:I POWOdt< or 1rt$NJ I""!'I(I 0Iac_ ~
PNfIIlII 011
~_
-.1hIIo ~
Of.-I'ItIft$.'"
I SinI-.. II.. cI.lII. in. c~ pot llrilh 'M .laahi tor aboul 12 min .......
'MIn die claIM ha" all C>pO'IW(I ...-- 1M top ,Mil from each c ...... at>d
..-- doe c&.- nnded ;n ,...,. bottc- _II.. Sk>wIy pour the cooI<....
... _ ..un......:epaDo InVUlf ...y ...., ... .and behind.
:I Bn..h tIw .-dNh -U wilh oil and """,kle .nIh d... .....ho ".,.,.-ckr:
d...,...... ..........
__
GeMb-"""""...a.-
4 ....... ~
....
....
--.-~
....
,hr
leo ......
.......... .nI"
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.,
'_."11""
10", ....
wy .. Fr~n.:h ... e
.... h m
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r=
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y .. rr... ;... on I .
~di"'nI"
h...
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trey
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nIh
limpy"'"
I"'n .... on
rnllo
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10.1.......
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.,
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uol
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,.
Sa ... , de ftah, .." AI. '
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124
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..
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I . .'41-0"""" ,h. eu ..... ' (m<"" eh ....... n. 0, ~1f~, .. hI.,..n ,''' .,,,1.'10,,,, "Uce f."
,;0 ,n1nU'~to.
Thn ..rI,h .. eu,,",," "n 8
1 wood~n M "','1.1 .............. and 1',11 '"1,,1'"" h~." '!I",II~".I.v b,...........II1U, ,,'" cook....! throu, ... abou, 3 ft\'nut.a,
".mln" .,1,... J ""nU....
3. Un'''' , .... .s."1f"l'" will. , .. '" y .. l.ctf,'" laUe ...... roll, .... .s.......," ,n ..... ~
on ......., ... (;nll """I allTUH' do ...... hou, 2 ... in" ..... """"'. and ...... <__
wlIh MlK"<'. Grill f", 30 ..... ond. mn~ ....1 _
1'""_.....
\hhD"~ many of , .... [,..s, ,Japan"", .alleU ..... brofh ....... aIT.in. rcno.d liar.
."lTOundi .... ,h.. fOod .n .m.Jl bo.o.I . ,,,.. J.pur .......... __ .... ..,..~ oi ~
... u~~. for r,,"VI 1I.II ..nd 5'mmeff:<11lI<';ala and .ufood. Some of 1_ _ _
..... mpl~ u . tiny mound of waI;Ibi (Dmbined ","h toy ...1K"t' by ,,,, d .........
su,h; har: od..." .,.,. more cumplu ..rod thid..... conw ....... _ ... ~
M'UJII.....
...t.
Dr poeiIIIlII'a.
"U' .,.......
. . . . . ..
beM.. . . . . .
~)
~-,..... .. ....J.ddrn.i....
c..w .....
T_iIIiIIUC'I'''.-+ a .. __ .....
..... - ....
_TO.A.AueE
o. ,...
oottOU1'IPlI
...
!stnp
nil' ~
8<"'IH"~I"'"
60 ""'~ t."
'"
60 "'oI~hton
I (UP
Z50""Ullle"
1 oUP
250 mllllhl~"
11.auncen Q",msl
1_ Wipe !h. ~onh" will. a b.~""I.~ mO;OI I.o"d and .n~l';1 in.a .... ,,~cAI pie,-"..
2, Combln~ all the mgr~":nl~ In ~ .. "",I~ ... -"t~d mi:ting h<>wl. (Owr ".-,,1.
pb;.~ wrap. ~ntll~1 .,t lor 24 hou .... A' coom lem""ratur,,_ Sirain through
a liM_~csh ,In"n"r or ch".,M<:loth. RefriVrale in a botd~ "'nh " tight_
liwng lid
..u
luiao
'
.,.
ncu.",,, or ~r,
v\r~a'
-~ j'lIanHe _av-.uc:.
Ioostlv ll-K-.ed
C~p
1< ,up
O!tr!(.njuQ
"ltabll1puDflS
,~
1.c~~
bo,,,,o Ililke-s
1 <up
!~5 m,lIilite'~
125 ""Hliliers
3OmlIli.UI~
115 ",;'hllt.rs
60 mdlltll,,"
250 mlll'lll ....
"S'''_
SAUe[S
.5Z7
_ _ MISO SAUCE
--I
...., ...
bu.n..
fw, ;I~d
01"
<>It,
vet
._--
.-
1!oz'
L TOM .h ...,um
-.cv
hey
r.. ",
""_pa.,.wil"
..... JO,
SII.
il Ii
""Ill..
hl h,n ~ o:Inirrd
l~fISI
)ap.> _ _
&Mill'
....
:iI
lSI,.,..
in ....
an
10&;
Y .. W,..,.",0:1
..,.. OUI
,.,tauI
YO"""
lain
~
100
hK"I.rn,.n
k .. Un
I.
m ........d
Ih
,.,,.Iabor ,. ....
l<l
iI<In"
"-' eq"I..a
'"
,n
....
I"'tftoI
i(1T' e) n
WI'''
a~hof'~",n
10\'
521
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taO:
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0'
6 'ab,KPC >I'IS
\lib~
'pi,
i 10451 <>On
20
"'""'ii..,
,o'd,~4
,_S;"'
!25m,'lIr- .. "
l'ariati"'M
So". _~I."b Qf ngelables ben ... ri! from extra sw ... ,,'nes~ in Ih ... dre ..ing (col,\
bo." an,1 cucumbo.,,-.; come 10 mind) .\nywh ... re from I 'ca5poon [5 millilil~")
or mirin (or h"n "-' mUl'h '''gat) d;~ked into .h,- ha.i,
..'.,.! ,I,...,.,ng will give Ih ....... u' .. a(ldilional ~\~ft"tncU. Th ... delightlul ~m"l"
..- of ,"'11;\ .J"p.o.n""" .alad dressings ~iln I..., ;neno......! by iofu.inl! a hantllul ,,[
~Il,:d bonito 14k" in the hQI drening and ,'rainins ~It"r I minute. (II int.,,;,,!!
in" ~"Id oauel", .Ira;n "h"r 24 hou ..... ) Thi~ i. "" alternative to ~dding ,J... hi.
In co,,, cllllhd
,-egt',,,ble. or lur dip fling sauCU. To chid,,'" ch~ I","it rlr~,,""ing. bring ic \0 <I "",.
mer, beat ."I "&S yolh uncil I"'le. and wh,,1< ch~m into ,h" "au,,, oil" ,h" I.~a'
R.,urn ,he mi",ure 10 Ih~ heal a",1 'Iir It"~nd.\ wnh" wood"n >p<lOn (M ,ho"e- h
fftl,k"'!i a~m" ane:1a.il.e) "mil Ih" s,,,,n' Ihick"M. u" cool
:\ bui. 'J~I):lfIew .... Lad Jr ......~ins ,'an ,,1<0 II<" ,hi,ken"d and fla,on.,j w,ch
'.-..me polAr.. , " popular ;ngredi"n, in J,'p-,nru .,.u,'n_ To "",h a ....... m<!'11;,,"orJ and ,h,,,k.n..d saI"J ... lIC"_ coaM \w<Hhird h~ amount of whi1~ "..... "".
le~"
,..
tillij:lhd.v hru"'nNl ,~nd l'r"Jj:rlIl1I. ~hu", Ii ""nu'e" Grin.! ,h" ",,~l. '" "_ n.I<)
P"",e il] " colI"" grind~r (ur hl""der 1",- 1"'Il'" "mullnt.) 0" in ," lr:uhum,,,1
.)~p.Ln~.., ."rina"hi (see l\alle 3(1). (I'e.,,,,,1 huller <-"" al_o he .... b,!ULII~d 1M ,h,'
<"'m~
W1Y.)
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529
t n....
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Ih
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con.I
ab
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on .y Pi
~"
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,h".." ,.. , .1..., _ _ ,I ... ", "1"'''' K.d , h,kl_e ... nown .. h.-J.,' _ I..... P"i~~:
... ~~n .1 .. ' . , , .. Io......n' '" K. ....... .. u ..-.! to 11. , .. , " "'pa. '''''-poi dish .... ~ ~
. d'pl"'''' "u,<, S. ", bcn".,..... ..... I ....... '""~ 1_ ~ <to) ",1,0' Kor-.h.!"" .
.ten. ,,(
.J.,..........
...,I.o!."
con"'"
r.aa. ............. .
w-. coId.,aw ...... .r.... _
--- - 6_
..
also ...." . cW~ ~ fur
r... II wiD liMp" &.at. wed; . . . . .
YIILI
1 ............. _
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IT.""
--...... ......I~ "-' ........
5 ..,nu''''
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e tr- .... ......h..nt~ .....II.-'.t
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fur., kuI
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od
y,.rlrr-C>CS
~moa
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tl .... "...
I<'
:ooki..,.,''''' 01
rill
\<
an'
>n.. . .
Thai"
nvedinl.u
\r"" ..... _
k.-' retfiCCtn'I Y ..
,or ..........."" ""I.I< h. A<- rr<
II- 'l"iJ ...
..ue.: 'Y I~ or. ".,. rut. (~ qe 35 rDO" b !Y'llf 'P . ,~ I ...
..n' a;
i&I . ' b
ourpriaincl" rlte-n tn :>In...! w, h, ...... ~ i8I
It>e bac k(; net In much ,... ... ".Y as ulI...d at h)Ie In .\\ ....Iilrrnne.tn "'U~I ""
prlie and ~ ...~ I. &1.,j./! .. ~ hall.. h; f.. 11.."0 ..n<i "'" m
h,.,..., ..no IOU! 01 '" h
.\u.o;
n"h,"a1l.... " lile re " nofll' nd ...,,!,"
Iy
... hoorI b OI.h ... 1100':1<.. Jdl .. II 10"1-" m.. n ~ ",'Iions of W.. ~
...........,Iln'"
10,
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tn.
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M1dv :II
....
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pm and thar
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oIft
n....;or.\ .t.alk
..,d d
~
uo look_
.I incch 10
r h.. IN....,
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and di.u
'e P'''II!' .... sln ~ .... ~.
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.... 11 .-111,1. ""nw,1
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n Y ","""I Sou,h.
1.\''''.('< ...' .... I,h .. li ..
11>,., .., .. wi,I,h .t". (" .... ... .. I''<>I.. b.y
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ry do
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rt
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I Ch' Ra
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od
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h Lv
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ff
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"
Coo'"
rio;' l~,,;c ",we h,," the ...,me c.. ~nl;"II1"vQr. Th", ar" ;"c\",Jed i" mC>o1 St>ulh<;1 "\<~'" dipl,,"g ""'II""':, ,\men~""$ ",hn "re "nh,mil;"r with Th"i 10011 m.,,'
)"ek r a ... ",'e ",,,hle<,; h~h, .... u,,~ <)r ",,~u<'c ,",,-de ,,,tlh Tha; lish .... uce, ",hi.1,
It mllJer, In 1"", rhl~ sauc~ IS ,-ct:'>' ,,,,,,Iar to 0,". "llh mo,' populilT Thai J;pP"'i!" <,;I.,,,.. lid'" prJ. In \ ,elnam. ""H.-rum "''8hl b,:, "''''''1'0.1 w;lh a bowl of rice
'" co",..,lute a IImple meal. but it .. "I", an "Imost un;"e",,-' sauce lor ""lad ...
", p<'rlect ,,-ith cucumbers-and srilled a"d friecl """food or muts It willlu'~p
1M up to 2 weeh, well C<I"en!<!. in Ih~ rdriger"t" .
y'HO
ta,ll{ "OW$.
cru~MO
10 a
~~te
.........
"
"
"
45mllli1l1tn;
6 t~~poons
90 molillitel<
/, [UP
60
sau~e
rttillil,ler1;
The tunount& of each or Ihe ingnodicnl5 can be ine~ or d<!C""a~ In producl' .picier. hnller, more sour. or sweeter \'~ ...ion~_ Thc lime iuiee can be
re~ed w;lh vin'"8lU' (d.istilled while ...inl',.r i. Iypicnl'.\' used, bUI while wi,,~
,.j~r or eider vinegar will Jive ,he sauce ...ore /i",,",,). Dr wilh I....arin.-! extract (~Nole). Wilier.,...., aI.o be added 10 Ih .. w.uce for a 1;'''''' \'eralo'" and
rl.opped cilanrm will ,"ve!he saure ref"""i,,, bice. It. finely chopped I_inch
(2.6 elll) .Jice...r ~ &ala ".,., can be 1II',....d ;"10 1M .... uce to make rhe
~ V_
__ _ 1fUII -..ee _eritMs sen.-ed WItt. plain nc:e
AIId ..a.a
..w. -rood.
Not.
AI
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.. d~.'t1 _
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In .... "
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.haul Itrl ..r. ..... I. II
Iled .. -n puu ~ o...r oM c-onl&t .. "I"'
M ~ 1...... and
oM pop
n.,..t TV .,..m.
.."....\Iy "
.Jo,.. 1"1'111
..
morr.r -:i
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lh~ r.-t ~ 5cOOm<"I1
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f I' .......uor 1);;. U'y
I 10. tmooIh.
...
M wI., :Jon:na. lx,
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01" .... conUHI M d>
......."0.01' (,uny~
.. . ,....
....
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>lmd
an d Ten
..
proponoon
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of . . . .
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,......., and
<_ ..11
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'e.JI dow
b,
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hal.
b:II
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at
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on .'.
1<'
ol~
" Tranll"r .. thml of I~ pul.. 10 a "",rl.' an.! ,nn,1 wnh .. ~.,.d~ 10" .rnu",h
,,..,.. , .bou. 10 "'lnUIU. R"~"I wi.b .hot ("1'maonl"i: rMO-,h",l. \... hi,d.t
.. "me). (II ~ H'ry Lar, .. mortar And prill...,.., ."lIi1Ab1... th .. pulr ,.,. Ix
('~n lUm' pul.. II ....,1.. in I .... gm......IIV .. _I, urn' p.-c.. -P"'Iim""''' ...nd.
r...:.t
i;..
pnx_. tilllll grindin& .... II mun.... .no.! p"'stk - bul ..,..... 011....
'"I~_ and IbN propon_ IIf'r dil1 .. n1Il ~\oet ,... por1IIl>l pffn <urry
-.k _b rntr. ......... c:h,," c......ih WIT_) r.d..... thIIn .loYd n-J ........ 1M
~ af b.... '&'O h~ .;. ,.-e-rn ,...m ........-n holt..r
Rd-
..... lnll
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."
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t/l~
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and
~-
...... '-.,bua
.................... - -...........
.....
a-.e
..
_rr- ...... - - 1. ......... 2 ..
(30 .......'.,,.._01.............
DESSERT
SAUCES
nOI
Very sweet
desserts, such as cakes
or pastries
containing chocolate or
elaborate creams, arc best served
with a relatively acidic sauce, such as an
unsweetened fruit coulis. Dessert sauces can be
\~(;!
lR.''1'
\! .. L
,he-
l co!-.....
.. I"
....
d.-I,.., ,
'1.0 ....... 1
tm~
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han' .....
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half
II
~ C Rtt.4E AN G LAISE
"
I.
"
.j'UAt1 (.!
~pan
I"ft')
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10
t"~ m,lk
1ft ..
\\ b.l~ Ih~ ""II. .~ "e"lU'I~ wh ...Ie 1C"..,h~r Iht .......- "nd ell.vol"" un,llt..
d,NO""" ..",I Ihf. voll .on ~I~ Vt'11ov.
.l. 0\. ,I,, lIullo .. '!'" .... h.. , . "',.,N ..... mOW' Ihe .... ,11a be.nl....d ocr. I'"
mudr to' If... h h.t!lwllh .. p.annS len,l~ to ....k"'" , .... 1111 ..,.d.. Kl-aom
.up.
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d,,,n~
t-'"I.:..I. to ,I, 1"" ....... 1 ,,......,,, ...1,,1, " ....illh.M and .. "
_ ':. P"
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,he" du" u .... ' ,I .. , ,j._.i,., kr,"M',,-' 10 .... ' 11,,' bo'SI-quoluy, h".....k 1_
\...... an
Uou>fCO<"'" 1,..",1 .. , C"mbine
."h ,I,, ~".voI"'a ... l ....ar. ,\.~I" oune.,. (12:........' of ro< ....
1M
"'.!'" '0 II,~ ",.~III"" ....I OI,r ......,h .. wh, ..... "nhlamoOlh, Corn,"...... !.....
..... !ar crt- a",t.;...
l""" b.u'~Ir. Break up8oun.es (2!oO ........ ) ofbi" t'nW .... <~
tho, .....
'pc'
;....,......JI chunk.. :\dd ,he-wlo I~CNme ane:W-'" ooon ... " Ih"' ...... Stir
off It. h~AI .1Ih whw. until It. ,h~ .. cc.pkttly ..... .-..Iy dio..
...h--rd ,n lhe-crum. ~ ......... hroucb.<h;" ..... lfbi"...-.-c""""'io_
.... ir..I>I~ ..... Hf or bod.:i.., chotola.ecan ~.,.J, bu1 _ _~ lU.d;uotd..
&mO .. nl ul "',... <...... ra.oncd in Ihe a~ ..... ...,lai.. aco:onJu.,ty.
<'off-
s.:n.....--
011
dw .. nd.
aJ-. Wllh
~ nlract
_ _ of lhe
011
.-
m<Mf ....... mon nUl ft....,.;..,. for CTt...., .... I.i.r ~ haul"ul ..... &1Biner a1 ...0n0t. an unavallabk in IIw UnitN Stater. _ _ or lhot
cyanide d...,. cconuin. Few d" . - - _
chef. u. alnwrId e.m"ld......
pnI:iJW 10 u.put 1M fUll flavor of bitter allI'OCIdt..
TIw ft. .... of buelnllb .. be.c ....paned .....,. h.zdnuI pnIio. -"ich
.....- &0lIl ....,piers of iIDponed r-k. tr ....poncd .......ut ........ . avaiW*. it call be ".........- by ~ o:-.dy chopped hueIa_ 1ft plai.
,..-I for a ......ute or two. pourine; the hot mlllNre _ all aiW....,.bIe. WI
'J1w twO
~.
n.......-..
. . It cool and
..... '-I~
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..
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I..... p.>r.non ,. ",II 1,*. n...y .r~ ,lrl,n"'... ~~ when ,,"pared
,,h,.C' "'lAC', btu ....... n ~h."n ... "d.v Ib"''''N ........ ~ uoonl .. I~ .............
,C'nt. 1W<'.,u .. 01 .h~ &<,,,1,,), con.ainrcl '" ... "" (~~C''' ........... WI",),. wwI-.....
.......""" ,,,11 .I.....,.. h ..., .........ou. "no... ..dp thac ............ tb. ~ II:...........;""'''1 to trulll.nd tn.;, putrin.. If noll .-to. 100 ....... II .........
fo.1 for .. ' - of ,t....n .......e.
~_vt'" ,....... h II... ~pr dw foBow. conWM .............. c'-- _
aiont.' ............ ntof ....ar.houldbrdKr.-I _ _ . . . . . . _ _
wtth........,.
u dw only n.von"f. _
IA,AYON
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and
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E ... n ' drop or ~,_-n ~ ".~Uld .. ,II ill M' """", . . -)UfI('fl (;.,-' ..,-ar'-.' of : ,."..,!.I
10 pull 10000hrr _"'oaIUIf'FV mU1 (m.:<e ,hI!! 0C111n. <e"ln b'lu i' --,.,,' .. b ~
,I rhot,lt,'<e (a. [,_" I lat.1t '1''-''''' It> m,li,l_l~nof I''luid 1"-' 0\1" -:" ....... .
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,n .t4<,,,I~ boikr ",h.-n" IS i. "lI ...d,,- I "I,,... a,,,,,,.;>I.,I~ .. " ,..., .
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GANACHE
11
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.......1<m. ,I chocoL
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en. am wh"
\'en
he appropn
k).
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of
k'"
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:l.Comh
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~. As OOOI'Iu rlw("l"l'Al'
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h_ ....
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566
CHOCOLATE BUTTER SA U CE
(1)0<<,1..0' I", ......... .,.-0' k;, ...... h~f '~'h ..,. ."d .. _ .... 1""",_
fI.~,,",,1.
.",
j, ....'n>nf
.... L
...
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('iotnl,-,"' mel. I..... hoc-oLole wilh I.... liquid ,n & ,Ioubk boiler _ ,n & hu.... _
bo!.om ....... Up&n OV ... ~ry "-" d....1 hoc
2 When , .... liq";.1 .1><1 "h"",olale ..... "otnhi,....d and I"" ......,".... q pnfl!'<'dy
.......... h, .llhll' buller, .,......founh &. & " _ . Coni"""" add"" lhe homer
"nlil il i 11 worited inlo
and It.. "'''''" ;. omooIh.nd obift)' .
\\Ihite~""
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-,. .............. ....,. _
.........
0001
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e
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or poI'lu"
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r ,I
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,hrena
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pIo..,"
568
..
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE
,.A
-...
. , 11 0 , 0 " , "
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'P"'J"OI
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2
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10 mlUUII,..,
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n.._.
PUA8UTTERICOTCH SAUCE
11M --.1 ___ 01 ~ pean wido ...... .-I buntIr
-...a""" - ,....
"'I,U' ,
. -..
.- "'6
tallplutz ..........
,, II
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h~ P""
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3.
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and
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od i""
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bn
6. P
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.... hi ... d .. po:
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Whi.J. .Iw mm " ... hile
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1. St '; n II -..:1In al
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f d rnI
tI. s.rve
sau. e ...... r
p ...... I{,j r -'Y couli. a nd
~ ~
n1.ly be ~ ,....j . 10 r id ,I I.. "l!'O"1 ~ h.. p "',..... II,n.1 cOO plat
"Ie
,h.
,h.
j'Rl' lT S.\CCES
an be .. oed 10 P ~pan ""
pi... .,.d
Ahl ... I y ..... -."fftnw:<J 10 _
. II
u ( iOl I ac
pan
rd de
,.
Mus.an .....
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r ..
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n...
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are pn--".-J
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w.yw. d"ptnoJ.
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a
n
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' ...... ' be a51 .. r 0., .... " II ........ "Sll'ureo,'i
laodpro< '
eM' blo-ntl .. r. Sc.nw firm trul , _h .. unc',""Tlpt" pt".... 0' .ppl
" 1111 M
IUra'
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w Jua:
~I
llw,~Or"
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III
hor:-.on. pur
fn
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an
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-.......ned...1
570
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h ..
I 'JI
a .. ,..",", od fnlll
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tol'"
furth.,..,.Jfi
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...
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AI I ...... ""ie
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an
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tratn ... 0' m,.~!X'II ... Th... Il.,y",,, ......",,1,11... ~,ld",1 ""I)< "'Mn 11'1.. f...,,,
looi
p"~_I""'Io. ,...... ~.,.,I. bO'<-a ..... 1'1 .., ql" I.I~ ' ..'.... ,.... - "I.",le I...", II ..,,,.,,
"01.- ,
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'hroufft .. duno", ,nnullv.... 1'><' much 1<10"" m.I)" dun. Ihe r....,.le .....sh
OCI'ftn 'u:l.iull ..... 11.....,.. ~nd c"",,,,n,,,n.y 01 .h........ ti .....;.h qat .~rup a' pIA.n
....,r. <whc-to II ndt 10 I>.. .hinMtI .... hQ\11 lor.." swk any __ I".) _Iletn<ln
,Ill TIll. I.... hnoq~ ~ ... br ~ I.... oe,... I"'m..-. hl .... l>........... hL..k 'u ...... ra.
....J oc ...... 1011 br",,". If &nV of.t... "rnn oU'C .... rd .... un.ktTi1"" III,,~ ,.n ..
~ 10 _
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C..... berry
When WI
DC l . Y "
II
APPENDIX
rilE Rt:LATi\'E TIIICKEN I NG I'OWEI{ 01' LiA I SONS
n..
~.,n~'
.h~
~i,'cn arnounl "I' <'O(\Io.;"f!,' 1;'lu,.I. For t~aml'le, In lho- .'Ia.,"",nn;>.;.., .00umn... d .... ic md .'
"nn~i ....onla;n'ng .,0 f>"rc""1 1"\I.O'd ....ill ha"e .1'1'",.imllld., Ih~ _arne n.>n. < I<n<y a~
heM,y,ream
Tk "C~' column ~C":."n) .h".... ,he con ,OI"n.-" "f hu.v:. </'UtIl ,,hrn <, <.....,11.0,]
1X1"t,,",1ae:~ :-;""c~ Ih.ot. ,~"n red",,,,,1 h~ ~I'I" r. ,"~'I .. onl~ ol'II.,ly,h"hr
b,; .S"..,n
Ihan
u~u ......J
d,ick.,11
>0 1"'"-"'-'"
Ih~ CI'UIn
Th. lie:u ..... in Ih .. rol"",n ,n"y 'dry con~',l,r;,bl.v ,le!",,,,I,,,!! un d,. ""'<I' .... n,rnl "I' ,\><
hulk . :-,.,lIcC lh~1 a~ a ",,~Iurc "l'p...... rhrs l()() I\t"r"~nl hUII"r. ,he ... u.. ~ hr..,k.
The Ihicio.en"'l!: po_r "I "'" bun~"" v~riK.I~I""n,linl!'
Ih" ',vi><' "I n,,', hu' .... ho"~
1li(ii0, If, .. , .........1 " ...... ".nl .. I...... ".s '1'1.,. columll .howa
,,,,,,,I... "I'
1
'IU"" "I I1ndy puri-nl n,,'" (nu' b,me1') cequ'rc<1 .,. ,II"~ ken a quan nll'qu
,II'
,h~
Th~ 1_ ",IuJ<'" ,llos'r~'~' lh~ ,bit:Io...n"'l!! f"'" cor 01 h'!,hhl ...,dun<1 '"'''''''' puck
'I<" 'nal ,,,"'.,," I'ur~. ,h .. .~~mpl< .",,0",'" I"'.wI .... th"Ir.;&.ad"clr.bi<l.....d
L.
'
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