CompLeteHome How-To Guipes
HOW-TO BOOKLET #3083
RAIL FENCES
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TOOL & MATERIAL CHECKLIST
U Fence Posts Fence Rails
ATPlates or Fence Brackets I Post-hole Digger
Line Level UString
Cement Mix 4 Water Bucket
Galvanized Nails 4 Paint or Stain and Finishing Tools
Read This Entire How-To Booklet for Specific Tools and Materials Not Noted in
the Basics Listed Above.
Because of material costs, the rail fences of Abraham Lincoln’s day have been modified
considerably. However, the modifications have improved the originals, if not in
aesthetics, certainly in efficiency. Today’s designs utilize posts that are pre-mortised to
accept the rails, You simply assemble the units no trees to fell, no rails to split
Rail fences are an excellent choice for ranch style homes, although they are pleasing when
used with almost any style architecture. A low rail fence, for example, works wonderfully
well as a definition fence for a front yard to block foot trafic across a lawn or plantings.
‘The openness of the fence design doesn’t block the view and isn’t offensive to neighbors.
Before you buy any fencing materials, check the building codes in your community.
Some municipalities place limics on the type and height of fencing. We also suggest that
you inform your neighbors about your fence-building plans. Good fences make good
neighbors in more ways than one.
FENCE TYPES AND MATERIALS
There are six ral fence types, classiied by construction, plus one design called a post and rail fence,
included in the rail fence family.Le]
‘They ate:
‘Rail fences with mortised joints
4B Rail fences with lap joints
Rail fences with burt joints
4 Rail fences with slocted joints
4 Rail fences with grooved joints
4 Dimensional ral fences
Post and rail fences
Ifyou have lots of trees on your property and you
don’t mind cutting some of them down, you can
make a zigzag rail fence similar to those built in
the 1700s and 1800s, The rails are overlapped at
cach end, and a rock, brick, or block can keep the
bottom nails off the ground (Fig. 1). The lengths
of zigzag rail fences are usually about 8'. ‘The tals,
after they are stacked, can be spiked to add
strength (Fig. 2)
Most common rail fence materials are woods or
pecler core rails (Fig. 3) with matching posts that
you can buy at most home center and building
supply outlets, Some garden centers also
inventory these items.
TWaditional zigzag ral Fence fxeures tacked sa spike
‘publ bom fed tree, Bedell le forthe dowel
You'll find illustrations and construction details for
these fences in this How-To Booklet
FENCE-BUILDING BASICS
“There ate four parts to a rail fence:
Posts. Posts can be woods or peeler core rails, or
you can use 4X4s or 4X6s, If you build a post
and-ral fence, the posts are 2X4s — two pieces at
‘each post location (Fig. 4). Ifyou build a dimen:
sional fence, posts are not used. Posts are set in
postholes you dig in the ground. ‘The standard
depth for a ral fence is 2°
Rails. Rails span the posts horizontally. Rails are
fastened to posts using various joints and fastening
methods (Figs. 5 and 6). ‘There are normally wo
rails in rail fences—sometimes more depending on
the design.
Footing. ‘These are the materials placed under
and around posts to support them. You can set the
post directly into the ground and support it with.
gravel and dirt. Or, you can set the post into the
hole and support the post with concrete. ‘The
concrete footing, as you would guess, is the best in
areas prone to extreme frost heave.
Fig. 3
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Fig. 4
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Slotted Joint
Mortised Joint
unt Joint
Grooved Joint
Lap Joint
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Gate. Gates should have a maximum width of
48". ‘The gate posts should be larger than the
fence posts to support the movement of the gate
Tis suggested that you set the posts in concrete
for stability. Use at least three gate hinges—top,
middle, bottom—and buy extra strong or hefty
hinges for support
EXCAVATION
‘To build a rail fence you should follow a plan for
best results. ‘The job will go faster and easier and
the finished fence will look very professional
$F Clear a tine that the fence will pass through
At least 1" to either side of the line is good
enough. Any shrubs, bushes, tees, or stones
that are in the line should be moved, or the
fence should be laid ont to avoid them. You
do not have to remove the ground cover.
‘Make sure that buried power lires will not
interfere with the posts. Your utility company
provide a site plan free of buried lines,
‘Check with them before you dig
$Y Once the path has been established, position
the posts. Afier you determine the post spac:
ing—5', 6, or 8', on center—measure the di
tances and stake these points. Continue until
you have staked all post centers. ‘The center is
that dimension from the eenter of one post to
the center of the adjoining post cown the line
‘Try to keep the fence sections in even feet. If
you buy pre-fabricated rail fencing, the length
Of the rails will determine the post positions.
Measure and mark carefully; triple check your
measurements before cutting,
Digging postholes can be the most difficult
part of building a fence. You can rent a man-
ual digger: clamshell or auger. The auger
type may be a tad less trouble than the
clamshell. You also can rent a power post-
hole digger, and if you have lots of postholes
to dig, we recommend it. The cost is not
prohibitive and it will save you hours of time
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