Schaerf_Fibel_E:Schaerf_Fibel_E.

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Sharpening
Primer
Tips and tricks for
sharpening knives
and tools with
waterstones

FINE

TOOLS

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Introduction
Opinions on how to sharpen a dull cutting edge are
widely divergent - even among professionals. We favor
the method used for hundreds of years on the sharpest
blade of all, the samurai sword:
Sharpening with waterstones.
This method is suitable for sharpening knives and tools
alike. It will be introduced in the following as well as a
wealth of tips and tricks from our sharpening experts.
What defines sharpness?
Technically speaking, this is cutting edge
bevel
where the two beveled edges
cutting angle
of a blade intersect. The bevels
define the cutting angle; the
sharp
bevel
point of intersection creates
abrasion
the cutting edge. So the goal
of sharpening is to regrind
the beveled surfaces precisely
dull
in order to recreate a perfect
intersection.
The attainable level of sharpness depends on four factors:
The grit of the sharpening stone
(the finer the grit, the sharper the result)
The structure and hardness of the blade
(the finer and harder the structure, the sharper
the blade can become)
The geometry of the cutting edge (the smaller
the cutting angle, the lower the cutting resistance)
Last but not least, the proficiency
of the sharpener

Sharpening stones
Sharpening with waterstones
has the following advantages:
The steel's hardness is not affected
since no heat is generated.
The cutting edge can be shaped exactly
(no rounding like with felt and rubber wheels).
The sharpening process is not dangerous
(no flying sparks).
Wide array of grits available.
The necessary equipment is affordable.
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As a basic equipment, a combination stone with a grit

of 1000 and 6000 1 is sufficient (e.g. No. 711006).
For more demanding tasks, stones with grit 220 2
(e.g. No. 711000), 2000 3 (No. 710991) and 4000 4
(No. 711021) as well as a very fine grit-8000 5
polishing stone (No. 711020) are recommended.
A Nagura stone 6 (No. 711301) can be used to
produce a polishing paste.

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During use, waterstones must remain rigid and not slip.

To ensure stability, use a sharpening stone holder with
non-slip rubber jaws 1 (No. 711101), a rubber underlay,
or a non-skid mat 2 (No. 705364).
As an alternative to Japanese waterstones, diamond
sharpening stones can also be used. DMT stones (USA)
are a particularly good choice. Made with monocrystalline diamonds, these tools are extremely wear resistant
and renowned for their perfectly flat surfaces.
The double-sided DMT sharpening tool Duo Sharp 3
(No. 705372) comes with a practical base and is recommended as a supplement to Japanese stones. It is also
excellent for flattening the backs of plane or chisel
blades.

3
Synthetic waterstones may be stored in a plastic
container, submerged permanently in water.
Natural waterstones should be stored dry.

A dash of vinegar or disinfectant should be

added to the water to prevent algae growth.
Household cleansers, however, should not
be used since they attack the stone's bonding.
In order to prevent cracking, sharpening stones
should never be exposed to frost! When using
highly calcareous water, don't let the stones dry
out too often; otherwise, lime builds up and
reduces the stones' efficiency. Sharpening stones
should be handled carefully. Keep them flat (see
page 12), clean and free of oil since oil prevents
the stones from absorbing water,
limiting their abrasive effect.

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Book recommendations:
Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide
No. 713774
to Sharpening, by T. Lie-Nielsen.
With this book, exacting plane
builder Thomas Lie-Nielsen has
produced the most comprehensive
and technically substantiated work
on the topic of sharpening to date.
Step-by-step instructions and tips
on restoring sharpness to dull
instruments are included for knives
and a range of woodworking tools including chisels,
axes, saws, plane blades and power tools. An essay
on steel and an overview of sharpening equipment
complete this comprehensive guide. 216 pages, over
750 color photographs, hardcover, 240 x 285 mm.
The Complete Guide to Sharpening
by Leonard Lee.
Finally, a book which takes the
mystery out of sharpening tools
correctly. In this informative and
easy to understand book, toolmaker
Leonard Lee presents the most effective and fastest ways to accomplish
every sharpening task. 245 pages,
160 sketches, 255 b/w photographs,
softcover, 220 x 285 mm.

No. 713554

DVD: Schrfen mit Wassersteinen

No. 713707
This film demonstrates how to
professionally sharpen chisels, plane
blades, carving tools and kitchen knives
using whetstones. It introduces the diverse
types of stones and explains in detail the
correct posture, procedure and movement
to use with different tools. This sharpening
method has been used on Samurai swords for hundreds
of years with enormous success. Some of its advantages
include ensuring your blades have a good service life,
exact geometry and breathtaking sharpness.
DVD, 20 minutes, in German.
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Knives
The appropriate method for sharpening a knife
depends on the quality of the steel. Many common
kitchen knives made of stainless steel have relatively
soft blades (52-56 Rockwell). Routine use causes the
cutting edge to bend, making the blade dull. Sharpness
can be restored by reforming the cutting edge with a
burnisher. However the durability of the edge still will
be weak. For good edge retention, hard steel - like that
used in Japanese kitchen knives - must be used.
And since abrasion is required to sharpen hard steel,
sharpening stones are the ideal sharpening method.
Handling the knife
For sharpening knives,
Bevel angle
a waterstone with a grit
size of about 1000
should be used first. Soak the stone in water for a
few minutes before placing it on a slip-proof surface.
Position the knife blade diagonally on top of the stone
at an angle as close to the recommended angle
as possible.

Recommended cutting angle = the angle at

which the bevel edges intersect: 10-18 for
cooking knives, depending on the knife's purpose;
20-30 for utility and outdoor knives; ca. 25
for carving knives.

While maintaining the desired angle, use straight

movements to grind the blade lengthwise on the stone,
and be sure to use the stone's entire surface. Use your
right hand to hold the knife's handle and rest your right
index finger on the blade (Fig. 1). The fingertips of your
left hand should be spread close to the cutting edge
and used to exert pressure.


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When guiding the knife, keep your fingertips

away from the stone's surface to avoid
scraping the skin and causing a painful injury.

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Pressure should be exerted on the cutting edge when

grinding in both directions and extra care should be
taken to keep the recommended angle as constant
as possible. Rocking and tilting movements will round
the bevel, creating uneven blade geometry.

Fig. 1: Sharpening the front of the blade

Standard, double-bevel
knives require sharpening
on both sides. After the
entire length of one side
has been sharpened, turn
the knife over and sharpen
the opposite side - the
handle is now held in the
Fig. 2: Sharpening
left hand (Fig. 2). For blades
the back of the blade
that are simply dull from
use, not damaged, about
20-30 strokes per side should suffice.

If you rinse with water regulary the stone has

its highest efficiency. If you rinse less, some
slurry will build up. This polishing paste may be
welcome to smooth out the grit-steps between
the different stones. To see how the blade and the
stone are interacting, look at the sharpening
tracks on the wet surface of the stone. A balanced
and rhythmic sound is another good indicator
that the blade is being sharpened evenly.
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When grinding with

coarse- and mid-grit stones
a noticeable burr develops
at the cutting edge, which
can be felt with a fingertip.
(Fig. 3).
Fig. 3: Feeling the burr

Honing
The term honing refers to the process used to remove
the burr created during sharpening. Before beginning,
rinse the blade to remove the particle remains of the
prior stone.

Fig. 4: Honing the blade lengthwise

For honing, use a stone with a minimum grit size of

4000. Place the blade lengthwise onto the stone (Fig. 4)
and grind it in the direction of the cutting edge.
At this stage, the blade can be held at a slightly steeper
angle (1-2) than that used for grinding to ensure the
burr is removed completely. As a rule, a few light
strokes are required on each beveled edge in alteration
before the burr can no longer be felt with the fingertips.


8

With increasing delicacy, reduce the amount

of pressure placed on the blade - too much
pressure will distort the finely ground cutting
edge. When finished, rinse the knife thoroughly
in warm water. Carbon-steel blades should
be treated with a little oil to prevent rust.

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Single-bevel knives
Japanese knives with a bevel on only one side of the
blade are slightly hollow-ground on the back side.
For this reason, only the cutting edge and the back
of the blade should touch
the sharpening stone when
laid flat. Only the beveled
side should be sharpened,
but both the beveled and
back sides should be honed.
During honing, the entire
surface of the blade can
Fig. 5:
rest on the stone (Fig. 5),
Grinding a single-bevel blade
whereas the surface of the
sharpening stone must
be absolutely flat.
Damaged blades
Damaged cutting edges
and broken tips are not
Fig. 6: Nicked blade
reasons to discard muchloved knives. Finely ground,
very hard Japanese knives
in particular can suffer an
occasional nick when handled roughly. To achieve the
necessary level of abrasion,
use a stone with a grit-size Fig. 7:
Using a diamond whetstone
of 80 or 220 (Fig. 6) or a
water-cooled sharpening
machine (e.g. Tormek or
Shinko). Place the blade
perpendicular to the stone
and grind the entire length
of the cutting edge down to
Fig. 8: Repaired knife
the damaged spot. For this
radical procedure, a rough-grit
diamond stone (Fig. 7) serves well.
The bevel can now be ground onto each side of the
blade in the desired angle using coarse-grit followed
by fine-grit stones. Thereafter, follow the guidelines
provided above.
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Sharpening the tip

To sharpen the tip of a
knife, raise the handle until
only the front of the blade
touches the stone (Fig. 9).
Using one or two fingers,
press the tip down and
Fig. 9: Sharpening the tip
grind it lengthwise on the
stone using a straight sharpening motion.

Protect yourself from injury, especially

when working with damaged knives or when
using sharpening machines. We recommend
ProHands cut resistant gloves (No. 707650).

Testing sharpness
The softer the material to be cut, the sharper a blade
must be to cut it. That's why the sharpness of Miming the fabled sword of the Nibelungen from the Germanic
saga "Wieland the Smith"- was tested on a felt hat
floating in a stream. When it sliced the hat effortlessly,
its sharpness was proven. A similar test was performed
on a blade created by the legendary Japanese samuraiswordsmith Masamune. According to legend, his sword
was placed in a creek where a maple leaf swam around
it out of respect for the blade's sharpness.

Fig. 10: Testing sharpness with a ripe tomato

A ripe tomato is perfect for testing a blade's sharpness.

The ability to slice one without exudation is one of the
most veritable tests of a kitchen knife's sharpness.
Professionals can judge sharpness by simply glancing
at the cutting edge - a so-called "silver line" should
never be visible.
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Storage and care

Each knife should be stored separately in a silverware
drawer or a knife block. Magnetic knife holders are
not recommended since they magnetize the blades;
this complicates the sharpening process by causing
abrasion particles to stick to the blade while sharpening.
High-quality knives, even those with stainless-steel
blades should never be placed in the dishwasher.
The high temperature combined with salty water leads
to intergranular corrosion and ultimately destroys the
blade. Carbon steel, which is not stainless, remains the
metal with the finest structure that takes on the best
cutting edge. These knives should be oiled regularly
with odorless, food-safe camellia oil (No. 705280).
Surface blackening or rust
films caused by oxidation can
be removed with a rust eraser
(No. 711531) - just add a little
water and rub the affected area
(Fig. 11). Chrome polish, such as
Gundel-Putz polish and whetting
paste (No. 705262) is also suitable.

Fig. 11: Cleaning with

the "rust eraser"

Rust (iron oxide) is simply an aesthetic flaw

that does not harm living organisms.
As a trace element, iron is actually essential.
As a cutting underlay, we recommend cutting
boards made of wood or soft plastic - contact
with glass, ceramic or metallic surfaces should
be avoided.

Sharpening with
the Tokico Knife Sharpener
The majority of commercial knife
sharpeners are not suitable for
high-quality Japanese knives.
Fig. 12:
One exception is the Tokico knife
Sharpening with the
sharpener (No. 705373) (Fig. 12).
Tokico sharpener
With this tool, all single- and
double-bevel blades can be sharpened easily and
quickly. Simply moisten the blade and pull it through
the slit 3-10 times. The attainable degree of sharpness
is limited by the relatively coarse grit (400) of the stone.
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Tools
For sharpening tools, the same types of
stones used for knives are sufficient.
Truing the stone

When sharpening tools with

straight cutting edges, it is
essential that the sharpening
stone be completely flat. Check
that the stone is plane by plaConcave cutting edge
of a plane blade caused
cing the edge of a ruler on top
by sharpening with an
of it. If light shines through at
uneven stone.
any point, the stone is uneven
and must be ground down using one of several
methods. The easiest of these is truing with a ceramic
block (No. 711298). After adding ample water, rub the
truing block in a circular motion across the sharpening
stone's surface until it is completely flat (Fig. 13).

Fig. 13: Truing a sharpening stone with a ceramic truing block

An alternative is to wet a piece of coarse sandpaper

(80-120), place it on an even surface, and sharpen the
stone on top of it. A specialized truing grille (No. 711297)
functions similarly.
Tools with straight cutting edges (chisels or planes)
For a chisel or plane to function well, it is essential that
the back of the blade be completely flat, not concave or
convex. As a rule, the backs of new blades should be
made plane before their first use.
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For this purpose, we use

a diamond stone or a steel
lapping plate (No. 713600).
With the latter, the blade is
worked with silicon carbide
powder and water under high
14: Straightening the blade
pressure (Fig. 14). The powder Fig.
with a steel lapping plate
grinds into a fine paste that
has an additional polishing effect. Subsequently,
the blade's bevel is sharpened at an angle between
22 and 35, depending on the tool's
purpose. For checking the bevel angle
(Fig. 15), we recommend using a bevel
gauge for tool edges (No. 707261)
or a mini protractor (No. 717141).

Fig. 15: Checking

the bevel angle

The smaller the bevel
angle, the lower the
cutting resistance and
the more delicate the
Low cutting resistance
cutting edge.
Determining the
optimal bevel angle is
a process that depends
on the type of wood,
High cutting resistance
the cutting method,
and the quality of the tool's steel.
Several trials may be required.

To a large degree, tools are sharpened in the same

manner as knives. First, the bevel is ground using
a 1000-grit stone (Fig. 16).

Fig. 16: Sharpening the bevel

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The bevel is placed on the

stone diagonally and ground
using straight movements
while the angle is kept as
constant as possible.
Rocking and tilting movements should be avoided.
Fig. 17:
In order to work efficiently Grinding the back of the blade
and to wear the sharpening
stone evenly, the entire surface of the stone should be
used. When finished, proceed to a 6000- or 8000-grit
stone and hone both the bevel and the back of the
blade (Fig. 17).

To improve the honing

effect and give the
blade a mirror polish,
a Nagura stone (Fig.
18) can be rubbed
onto the sharpening
stone to create a fine- Fig. 18: Using a Nagura stone
grain polishing paste. to create a polishing paste
A rocking motion while
sharpening will cause Rounded bevel
the blade to take on
an inaccurate rounded geometry. Similar
rounding of the bevel
Inaccurate blade geometry
is caused by fastmoving felt polishing
wheels, which we do not recommend.
To ensure that a plane
functions well, it
Chipbreaker
is not sufficient to
sharpen the blade
Plane
blade
alone. The chipbreaker, also needs
Securely fitted Chipbreaker
to be flat in order
and plane blade
to guarantee a
secure fit with no play
and to prevent clogging with wood shavings.

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When sharpening thick (Japanese) blades that have

a large contact surface area, maintaining a constant
angle is easier than with thin blades. One way to check
how evenly pressure is being applied is to look at the
tracks on the sharpening stone.
A honing guide (Fig. 19)
is very useful for helping
maintain an exact bevel
angle (e.g. Veritas No.
707168), but all honing
guides have the same
Fig. 19: Sharpening
disadvantage - their
with a honing guide
rollers can damage the
sharpening stone's surface. They are also relatively
cumbersome and make it difficult to use the entire surface area of the stone, which is necessary for even wear.
Carving gouges
Concave carving gouges can also be sharpened
with whetstone blocks. To avoid cutting the stone's
relatively soft surface, however, these tools should
be ground from side to side (Fig. 20) using a slight
rotating movement. Again, the recommended angle
needs to be kept as constant as possible.

Fig. 20: Sharpening the bevel of a carving gouge

Rotating the blade while grinding across the length of the stone

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Proceed to a finishing stone

and, finally, remove the burr
from inside the sweep with a
slip stone (Fig. 21). This is a finegrit stone with a molded edge
and a radius smaller than that
of the gouge's sweep. The slip
stone should be placed inside
the sweep and moved up and
Fig. 21: Finishing
down. The inner and outer edges
with a slip stone
of gouges and turning tools are
often additionally polished
with leather, either by hand
using a strop or mechanically, like with a Tormek
sharpening machine
(Fig. 22). The profiled leather
honing wheel (No.705190)
Fig. 22: Finishing with the
makes polishing very quick Tormek profiled leather
honing wheel
and easy.

By gluing a piece of thin leather to a

sanded block of wood, you can create
a finishing block in any shape you choose.

V-parting tools
Both exterior bevels on these tools can be sharpened
with a flat sharpening stone in the same manner as
chisels. The challenge lies in removing the same amount
of metal from each wing to ensure the blade geometry
remains even. For finishing the interior, a v-shaped slip
stone with a sharp edge is required. (If necessary, a slip
stone can be modified using sandpaper and water.)

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When sharpening v-shaped tools,

a protrusion often develops at
the base of the v where the two
edges meet. This occurs because
the blade is thicker here than in
both wings. To prevent such a
protrusion, round this corner
prior to sharpening.

Protrusion

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Turning tools
In general, turning tools
are made of very hard and
resilient HSS or PM steel
that is difficult to sharpen
with waterstones.
Consequently, we recomFig. 23:
Sharpening a bowl gouge using
mend using diamond
the gouge jig of a Tormek
stones or a Tormek
sharpening machine
sharpening machine.
The machine's universal
gouge jig (Fig. 23)
makes it possible to sharpen
turning tools quickly and
Finishing a
bowl gouge
with reproducible results,
with a slip stone
even if the blade's geometry
is complicated. After sharpening the outer bevel,
remove the burr from the interior by hand using a
slip stone or a profiled leather wheel, as with gouges.
Scraper blades
The scraper blade is the simplest of tools and perhaps
the most difficult to sharpen. New, straight-edged
scraper blades generally require truing prior to use.
A diamond stone or a flat file in combination with a
straightening clamp (No. 703526 or 704901) is good
for this purpose. After truing, the cutting edge and
both sides should be smoothed (polished) using a
fine-grit whetstone. Finally,
the scraper blade should be
placed on a stable surface
with the cutting edge slightly overhanging the end, and
a burnisher should be used
on both sides until a burr is Fig. 24: Turning the burr with
created (Fig. 24). To create a a Carbur burnishing tool
(No. 703533)
razor-sharp cutting edge,
turn the burr over using
either a burnisher or a special
sharpening tool.

When sharpening and working with

scraping blades, it's a good idea to wear
cut-resistant gloves (No. 705652)!
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Scissors
Scissors should be
disassembled prior to
sharpening, and only the
bevels of both the upper
and lower blades should be
sharpened. For this purpose, Fig. 25: Sharpening with
a fine-grit diamond block is a diamond block (No. 705367)
ideal (Fig. 25). While keeping
an exact bevel angle and
adding a bit of water, a few
strokes are usually sufficient
to restore sharpness. When
using a Tormek sharpening
machine, the special jig
26: Sharpening with a
makes it easier to hold the Fig.
Tormek sharpening machine
correct angle (Fig. 26). The
burr created on the back of the blade should be
removed with a finishing stone, as with single-bevel
knives (page 9). Apply a little oil to the joints and
reassemble. Finally, make sure the cutting action
is smooth and not too tight.
Outdoor tools
For outdoor tools like axes,
sheath knives or pruning
shears, compact, retractable,
multipurpose diamond
sharpeners are particularly
practical (e.g., the DMT
Fig. 27: Sharpening an axe with
diafold whetstone fine/
a multipurpose diamond
coarse, No. 705391). Simply sharpener
place the axe or knife to
be sharpened on a surface
(Fig. 27) and stroke the
sharpening stone across
the cutting edge bevel while
holding it at the correct
angle. Apply some water
Fig. 28: Sharpening a pruningduring the sharpening
shear blade with a diamond
process. Pruning shears for stone
branches and bushes (Fig. 28) should be disassembled
before sharpening. Typically, only the cutting edge on
the beveled side is sharpened and honed.
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Testing sharpness
The biggest challenge for
any woodworking tool is
presented by cross-grained
wood. Only really sharp
chisels or bench planes
leave a smooth surface
after cutting against the
grain (Fig. 29).

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Fig. 29:
Cutting cross-grained wood

Maintenance products
After sharpening, each blade
needs some special care.
To prevent corrosion, apply
an acid-free rust-prevention
oil, like camellia oil (No. 705280)
or Ballistol (No. 705270). For removing dirt or grime,
we recommend the polish and whetting paste GundelPutz (No. 705262) or Uchiko polishing powder.
To combat rust, reach for a rust eraser (711530).

A thin application of oil does more than prevent

rust. It also improves the running action of many
tools, like chisels, scissors or the soles of bench
planes (for the latter, paraffin should be used).

In order to shorten the arduous path towards sharpening

proficiency, we recommend our one-day sharpening
courses (www.dick.biz). Taught by experienced master
craftsmen, these courses impart the fundamental knowledge required to create perfect cutting edges. As with
every craft, the motto "masters don't just grow on
trees", applies to sharpening.
Practice with patience and
concentration and success
will be your reward. But
should it prove elusive,
you are welcome to use
our sharpening service
or to call our sharpening
master Helmut Hans at
+49-991-9109922 for advice.
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Sharpening
Primer

F INE

TOOL S

DICK GmbH Donaustr. 51 94526 Metten Germany

Phone: +49 991-9109-902 Fax: +49 991-9109-802
www.dick.biz info@dick.biz
Please ask for our free tool catalog.
The content of the primer is protected by copyright.

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