PR Tay ye af aay wy? Buy U.S. War Savings Bonds and Stamps GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER, 1945 Map of Northeastern United States Northeast of Boston With 12 Illustrations ALBERT W. ATWOOD Where Ne gland Meets the Sea 1? Natural. Jot Photographs B. ANTHONY STEWART Keeping House in Borneo With 28 Tllustrations and Map VIRGINIA HAMILTON Our New Military Wards, the Marshalls With 19 Tlustrations and Mop 20 Natural Color Photographs W. ROBERT MOORE The National Geographic Society Map of Northeastern United States Flying Our Wounded Veterans Home With 17 Mlustrations CATHERINE BELL PALMER Thirty-two Pages of Illustrations in Color PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY i i WASHINGTON, D.C,LXXXVITI, No. 3 WASHINGTON Skrremper, 1945 TH NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Northeast By Avuerr \) COMPLETELY is Boston the capital S ‘und metropolis af New England that the coast to each side-of it naturally divides into two sharply defined regions, ane north- east and the other southeast of Boston. Each of these far-flung seaboard reaches has a distinctive charm, historic past, and current interest of its own ‘Rot of the shore which stretches far to the northeast, up to the Canadian border, it may be said that nowhere is there a-coast whose inhabitants were more clearly destined by. Nature to the pursuits of the sea. ‘Tt was not that the funders of Massschn- setts Hay Colony consciously Intended to es tablish a predominantly matitime economy. True, they hoped to take advantage of the North Atlantic fisheries which earlier ex- plorers had discovered, but thelr first object was to found a religious refuge, a church and commonwealth for Puritans, which might also prove a profit-making pluntation.* Riches of a “Stern and Rock-bound” Coast But long, cold winters and thin, rocky, and meager soil mace agriculture on the scale of irginia’s tobacco plantations a sheet impos Landed estates were out of the question. ‘These settlers had cast their lot on a liter- ally “stern and rock-bound” coast. Tt was « hard land, geologically, climatically, and agri- culturally, only w fringe between wilderness and sea. ‘But the wilderness was filled with timber perfectly adapted to shipbuilding, and the sea itseli was filled with fish which, because ‘of the cold winters and cool summers, could be dried, salted, and shipped to distant parts. Tn addition, the coast is a highly irregular and indented one, with many large rivers, hun- aria, on AT ATRL ME RERTETE ONNTNGTON, SE WTRRAATIONAL CORPO WEST of Boston W. Atwoon dreds of offshore islands, and seemingly in- numerable poiits, necks, capes, peninsulas, coves, bays, and estuuries + The islands range from tiny rocks to these like Mount Desert (page 289), capable of sup- porting several towns and hundreds of summer homes, The indentations range from swall in- lets to arms of the sea so large that a yachts- man can sail in them for duys without exhuust- ing the possibilities Tn consequence, the coast is bountifully sup- plied with harbors in which shipping muy. take shelter behind the protecting islands or capes ar far up the deep estuaries and riv II the elements for a splendid: mati- ization lay close at hand, and stark hecessity forced our Puritan forefathers. to seize the only opportunity before them Ii they had not done so, there might well have been no “flowering of New England” and a wholly different kind of development on this ‘continent. Plymouth, to the south of Boston, was the first permanent white settlement in New Eng~ land, But it Iuy apart from the main. stream of colonization, and in 1601 its identity was merged into the larger and more powerful Province of Massachusetts Bay. When Salem Sailed the Seven Seas It was Salem, 14 miles northeast of Boston, and not the present. metropolis itself, which saw the beginnings of the Massachusetts Bay Colany. Prior to the founding of Buston, it was the point of debarkation for the great Puritan migration to the New World. ‘Masaach use und Its Posit: the Life ‘of the Nation." by Calvin Coolidge, Nation, Gho~ cearme Mazar, April {See rap supplement with this issue of the 3 Ne, abe pee 61 See 4The National Geographic Magazine It was Salem that bh more different peoples in Asin, A America, and the ands of the s other American ports combined, St. Petersburg (now Leningrad), Zansibar, Sumatra, Calcutta, Bombay, Batavia, Arabia, Australia. ‘The city adopted the farthest port of the rich st, who hid cr beard of Boston, New York, or Phili- iphia, thought that Salem was a country all its own, Irish, French Canadians, Poles, and Malian: ‘Like any predominantly industrial town, it b asp ship. carpenters’ took pers Combed the Mth-century World for Souvenirs relic xe punch spear African fi Australian booanerany fashions, Show area ahip’s But this prosaic, utilitarian present is more than matched by an extraotdinarily insistent and romantic past. Salem is literally a treas- ure house of carly American landmarks, relics, es, and documents of historic interest, ble and within a small ares. ig fairly haunted by these still. evidences of its Illustrious position orogenitor of the great Massachusetts Bay y, and later as a mistress of the seas Unlike some larger cities of venerable a which population grew apace, it was unnec siry for Salem to tear down and rebuild; thus a Larger proportion af memorable abjects re- mains undisturbed, A band of fishermen, healed by R Conant, had vainly attempted to settle at Cape Ann, byt in 1626 they: founded the Plantation of Naumkeag, now Salem, only six years alter the Plymouth landing.Northeast of Adve lalutoun ean rich East.” Driv Their portrait luxurtes ti 2 hart Vor hung im Salen years these “Old Plan wa, were joined by ( ans led by John Endecott (2 a newly formed campany in Enyla utto prepare the way for much large numbers, Whether or not Endecott si af Massachusetts, he y Wint Within hey were af Puri in charge until John nging the charter o der Charles t some 700 followe nd cows, goats, and horses. Winthrop and his colonists did’ not. remain in Salem long, but dispersed w found Charles Boston, Dorchester, Roxbury, and other towns A Park of Living History do nob expect to’ find the te and thatch Mowers park, is a ors to Sald | primitive huts of w Endecott’s shore, in cits Vi ii in which Conant’s lived, But om the jeston wluction r Winthrop set and fa mt which ¢ I. (paxe 275) riptions in letters: se the ¢ n furnished uscums, it is known as the f the Stat Jt hack informati wide ad was Salem's part bration of NV It i historical Living cont ° than 300 led fictelity. Be: were the same: and the t House eritor dispensable industries, andlemaking, am such make salt for his it seems, cu g a monopoly pot to sell, that be ot Winthrop’s sant own use but of GaverED) anNortheast As far as is known, only one house still stands in which lived a vietim of Salei’s witch craft hysteria, This is the quaint Nurse House, open to visitors, on hill in a field on the old Nurse farm in Danvers, a few miles from Solem, (En those days Danvers was a part of Salem.) The aged Rebecca Nurse (or Nourse), es- ected in 1692, although exonerated by the jury, is buried in a copse of pine trees a Few hundred yards from the house. Her body was temoved there at night, according to tradition, by her sons. A menument to her memory ‘bedes an inscription written by the poet Whittier. Back in Salem may be seen Gallows Hill, 4 rocky, barren city park, where those con- vieted of witchcraft were hung, and alsy the witcheraft. exhibit in the office of the clerk of the modern courthouse. ‘This includes the death warrant of Bridget Bishop, the first person executed in Salem for witchcraft: the direct cxamination of Re- becea Nurse, in the handwriting of the Rev- erend Samuel Parris, who was one of the most active in the delusion and in whose house (at Danvers) the strange doings which led to the trials originated: and the pins, produced in court, which the hysterical girls who caused the trouble declared had been pressed into their flesh by the alleged witches, Salem will be forever associated with’ the witeheraft delusion, although this madness lasted only four months out of the hearly three and a quarter centuries: of enee and teached no such propertions in Amer ica as it did in Europe, ‘No witeh was burned in Massachusetts, OF the 20 executed in Salem, 19 were hanged. One, the aged Giles Corey, was pressed 10 th for reiusing to plead, the anly recorded instance in the American Colonies of such a punishment. ‘Many ather persons were accuser of witch- eraft and jailed, but a general jail delivery: tonk place Liter, when the inevitable revulsion of fecling came. In 1711 the General Court teversed many: of the convictions and paid damages of 578 pounds and 12 shillings to such of the alleged witches as were still vo to their heits. [tis thought likely that, in the few: cases in which convictions were not reversed, the heirs ‘had seattered and disappeared and thus did ot prress the matter, One of the 19 hanged was Ann Pudeator. In February, 1945, some of her descendants Attempted to have her conviction reversed, Salem feels that it didn historic service in ‘bringing the witchcraft delusion to.a head and of Boston 263 thus toan end. AS Whittier sid of the blame Jest Rebecea Nurse: O Christian Martyr] who for truth could die, When all about thee cwnéd the hideous Lie! The world, redeemed. fromm Superstitlin’s away, As brouthing mer for thy sake today House of the Seven Gables ‘The first Iandmuirk which most penple, adults. as well as school children, wish to see in Salem is the House of the Seven Gables on the waterfromt at the foot of Turner: Strect. In early days it was the tollhouse for the Marblehead ferry (Plate V1). Nathaniel’ Hawthorne, who was bern in Salem and whase life and work were so closely identified with the city, never lived in the House of the Seven Gables and may have had other dwellings in mind when he wrote his hook, of that name. But he spent mimy hotirs in the charming old place with his relatives, the Ingersoll, Since 1910 the house has been used ssa resi. dence for the social workers of the House of Seven Gables Settlement Assoriation, which ovens it, Tt serves Polish, French-Canadian, Trish, and Italian nétehborhoords. Twrother 17th-century dwellings, the Hath- away House and the Retire Becket House. have been moyed to the same grounds, and it is said that these probably form the only group of three 17th-century houses in New England. Hawthorne's birthplace, at 27'Union Street, and the house in which he wrote Tie Scurlet Leiter, 14 Mall Street, are not open to the public, His birthplace is near the Burying Point, where the earliest settlers in Salem are laid to rest, Including Hawthorne's ancestor, John Hathorne, one of the judges at the witchcraft trinls,* Upon him a curse was pronounced by one of the victims, and tradition hhas it that Haw- thorne’s descendants long remembered it. ‘Apparently Nathuniel Hawthorne heartily disliked many Salem people, and they recip rocated; the prophet had no great honer in his own country, Salem people regarded him as gloomy and embittered, In 1830 he wrote his sister Louisa ftom Boston: “1 should come and see you but cinnot en- dure the idea of coming to Salem just vet. It would be tempting Providence to incur an- other risk of being tarred and feathered At the Custom House, now part of the Salem Maritime National Historic. one miny stand or sit at the tall desk where Hhiw- The novelist changed the orlvinal «pellinic of his name tu Hawthorne during his last year at Bowedein College“16s thorne worked as Surveyor of the Port from 1846 to 1849, and Joak out, as he did, upon the harbor and upon the great Derby Wharf, nearly 2,000 feet in length, from both of which commerce has long since departed, For many years before the Revolution, Salem merchants began ta engage in that triangular form. of commerce between the American Colonies, Africa, and the West Tn= dics that hecame the hackbone af New Eng- land's prosperity. With the sudden cessation of normal trade-in the Revolution, the fleet was driven into that highly successful form of war against the British, privateering. Of all ports which pro~ vided men and ships for harrylog British cam- metce, Salem furnished the most; fifty were at ‘sea.at all times for seven years. Privateers outsailing almest anything afloat and tno large for short trips of constwise trade hacl been built, Adventures of Salem Sailors ‘Thus, after the Revolution, Salem sought out trade with new and far-distant peoples, its ships penetrating in very truth “the farthest port of the tich East.” A sailor boy might visit Rangoon or St. Petersburg or Sumatra before he walked the streets of Boston, Tn the cargoes brought back were tea, cof- fee, silks, spices, nankeens, lemons, feathers, raisins, wine, figs, rubber, hides, horns, china ware, tum, gin, molasses, limes; and cocoa. The West did not yet heckan to daring youth; they practically all went to sea. On. unknown fceans and in ports never before visited by Americans there was adventure enoizh. There were fights with pirates and tribes of savages and imprisonment in French, Spanish, and Algerian dungeons. Privatecring in the Revolution had pro- dueed sailors who were well drilled, compe- tent, enterprising, and cowrageots, Many. of the supercargoes were Haryard graduates. ‘The best of the seamen became captains he foré they were 25, Each skipper was a.trader who could sell bis cargo in the mast profitable port and engage in personal yentures, retiring at 30 to carry on a mercantile business of his own. A few merchants were worth more than a million dollars, and in per capita wealth Salem atone time was one of the richest American cities, For a time Salem monopolized the world’s market in pepper; $18,000 was paid for a single cargo of Sumatra pepper that sold at 700 percent profit. ‘After the War af 1812 Salem gradually lost The National Geographic Magazine its maritime supremacy. With the Erie Ca- nal, New York became the great port for for- eign trade, and the railroads Hepes not only New York but Boston, Philadelphia, and Bal- timore, Nor was Salem's harbor deep enough to accommodate the larger ships which came into use. But Salem had had her half century of eom= mercial glory, and it concerns us now. because ‘of the graceful and stately monuments that remain. Scattered throughout. the city are many man- sion houses of the Federal period. following the Revolution, which show not only how wealth came out of the sea hut which embody the ultimate in good taste and artistic achiewe- ment. “These bouses ate to be seen on Washington Square (Salem's ald common) and on such streets as Essex and Federal. ‘They reach their peak in nearly balf a mile of elm- shader perfection on Chestnut Street, one of the most carefully preserved and beautiful examples of a “period” street in Amerien (Pinte X11), Shipbuilding and Wood Garving ‘The distinction of Salem's architecture,-as in a number of other coastal towns, was an outgrowth of its shipbuilding industry, which attracted carpenters who in some cases were skilled wood carvers and designers as well. For example, the rope forms of the shipyard are to be traced in architectural detail For 30 years Samuel MeIptire was the fore- most of the wood carver-uilders and domi- nated Salem architecture. “The grace, beauty, and precision (without machine production) of much of his work are unsurpassed by that of other American carvers. ‘Melntire’s genius as a carver wes Invished upon a large variety of details, especially of interior design and decoration, and upon ftrni- tu privately owned and occupied, the Chestnut Street houses, some of which are by McIntire, are not open to the public, But their exteriors are worth a study, Besidles the mansion houses, there! have came down from Salem's seafaring prosperity. two unusual museums, the Essex Institute and the Peabody Museum, both crammed with a fascinating and almest infittite variety of ob- jects which, in the language of Hildegarde Hawthorne, granddaughter of the great novel- ist, are “iridescent with romance of eloquent of history, hnman odds and ends that touch you strongly” (page 280). ‘The Essex Institute has one of the largest collections of antiquarian and bistaricalers Are Shipped inNortheast of Boston objects in the country Wustrating colonial and Fecleral life, It also has what it belleves to be the laruest library east of Boston, including thousands of genealogies, town histories, hivg- ruphies uf New Englanders, broadsides, book- plates, manuscripts, and English parish reg isters, wills, act books, and chancery pro- ceedings. ‘One of the Nation's Oldest Muscums But it is in the Peabody Museum, across the street and a short distance from the Essex Institute, that the favor of Salem's nautical lays is most definitely preserved. ‘This is one of the oldest museums in the country and has: been in continuous operation since its founding (pages 258, 259). Tt began as the East India Marine Society, Later It was endowed by George Peabody, the noted London hanker and philanthropist, whe was born it South Danvers, near Salem, sub- sequently named Peabody in his honor. There are exhibits which date from 1799, Including a wine goblet made from the horn of a rhinoceros. Membership was restricted tm persons who had navigated the seas near the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn as captains or supercargees in a Salem vessel, ‘One of the purposes of the organization was te “form a museum of natural and artificial curiosities, particularly such as are to be found heyand the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn,” und the members responded Tit erally by bringing back- from every comer of the globe an amazing collection of objects, Such, for example, isa porringer mace from the copper pump of TALS. Bownty, given to an American captain who took a gtoup of de- scendants of the mutineers away {rom lonely Pitesien Island, There are the souvenirs given by the family nf Napoleon to George. Crowninshield, mem- ber-of one of Salem's first families. He went to the Mediterranean. in Cfeopatra's Barge, the first seagoing American yacht to sail there. Rumor said his purpose wus to rescue the former French emperor from his British cap= tors. Here are the earliest Known American paint- ing of an Amierican-built ship, the Bether-* a flag made by Mr. and Mrs, Robert Louis Stevenson for the king of one af the Gilbert Tslands; a sextant used by David Livingstone in darkest Africa; one of the finest collections of ship models; more than 20,000 pictures of ships; original editions: and nautical insteu- ments of Nathaniel Bowditch, famous author- ty on navigation, who was horn, in Salem, ‘Not only in Satem burt im Marblehead, New- buryport, and other Essex County towns is it 273 possible to spend days looking up houses in which celebrated persons were born or lived. The old joke tha all the first families of ‘Boston came from Essex County is almost lit- erally true, if “came from" means “descended from." Only a few of the conspicuous names are those of Saltonstall, Endicott, Peabody, Higginson, Cabot, and Lowell. ‘Two facts in this connection must be re- membered. First, Salem was long the chief port of debarkation for the Puritan migration. Second, when Salem's seafaring prosperity de- clined, many of the mercantile families moved to Boston in search of greater opportunities. Qne of the most influential small’ groups in the early days of the Nation was known as the Essex Junto, consisting of men of Essex County oriiin. ‘Timothy Pickering, who hele three Cubinet positions under Washington, was born in the hause on Broad Street, Salem, which one of his ancestors built in’ 1960. Tt is still occupied by Pickerings. A sister of ane Winthrop lived in a house on the present site of the Fissex Insti- tute on Essex Street. She bad son, George Downing, after whom Downing Street, Lon- don, official hone of the Prime Minister, is named. On the same street in Salem worked as-a clerk one Benjamin Thompson, who later be- came the celebrated British physicist, Count Rumford, as well as commander in chief of the Bavarian army, Near by, still on Essex Street, is the YMCA, ‘on the site of the Sanders home. Here Alex- ander Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone, lived for several years, He spent his days teaching in Boston and his evenings in Salem, partly working on bis Invention and partly teaching 6-year-old George Sanders, who hil been born deaf (page 261). In gratitude, Thomas Sanders, the boy's father and a. wealthy leather merchant, pro- vided financial backing for the inventinn, In. cidentally, Walter §, Gifford, who has been president of the American Telephone & Tele- graph Company since 1925, was born in Salen, “From Wharf to Waterfall” Like its neighboring cities of Lynn and Bev: erly, Salem is now given over to manufactur ing, It has a considerable share in a modem industry, electrical and electronics products. ‘Here George S. Parker has manufactured games for over half a century. He invented the “Game of Banking” as a’ high-school stu- dent in 1883 and has invented hundreds of others since thet By 1840 the center of interest in Massachu- * Lent hy the: Massachusetts Hiitorieal, Society:The National Geographic M gazine 0 Marblehead, on its rocky haa few actically untouched by nicl it S arrow, sleef), af eat as om seafaring pursuits . m wharf to waterfall tthe is in Lowel us well as in Biddeford une « great fishing In early with than Tn 1789 there phans in the towr Proud of its part in our wars, Marblehend’s “Amphibious Regiment,” under Gen. John Glover, helped Washington to eross the Dela- ware. In the War of 1812 no fewer than 500 ind shoemaking industries were locat near the artly because of ocean trans- portation we And Then Carne Coal ho water power, but ster raised { lion dollars prior to 1845 to found 1 Marbleheaders languished in British prisons keag Steam Cotton Company, In the old Jeremiah Lee Mansion is a model cil, was brought byw of the schooner Hannaz, to which both Beverly Merrimack River water p and Marblehead lay claim, Many diferent con manufacturing sheeting and pillow- in several different places helped found Arie ok n Navy. When General Wa mimand of the Army in July cases, has the largest weave in the world,ortheast of Boston A Helicopter Movers Near the drhella, Reproduction of Salem's Charter Ship Te 1609 the first Arbre carried Joba yours later this ship moved in for u pageant. Nuw rigeed Village, a park wtiere Silem resereates Ihe Tile the Honnak, first vessel of “Washingti Fleet," was commissioned to prev upon Brit sea communications in hope of capturing ammunition, pride in their independ- ft that an artillery co y continued to march although the ex der ordered “Ree pantly asked for ant explanation, at “Marblcheadlers never y told of the young couple who moved to Marblehead from Salen, fc miles away, with a newborn infant, The upon reaching man’s estate, rat for public but was opposed by a native who vowed he would “never vote for a d— forelgn Marbleheaders cannot forgive Whittier his poem cantiemning Skipper Floyd Ire for his hard heart, tarred and feathered and carried in a cart by the women of Marble head,” because of his allewed failure to help throp'e Puritans tu Salem. fram England. fF 1830. (peng Three hundred o resemble the uriginal, abe is muared in Pionee the crew of “a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay.” According to the most authentic local his- tory, it was Benjamin, and not Floyd, who was tarred and feathered. The women bad nothing to do with it. Tn fact, a lady in Mur- bleheud told me that one of her forebea helped Mrs. Ireson remove the tar and feath— ers, The reall fault for not helping the weec vessel lay with the crew who, upon reaching port, tried to shift the blame from themselves to the skipper. Marblehead Capi Marblehead became an active yachting and yacht-racing center in 1877 when the Eastern Yacht Clab began to hold its antidl regatta there. It has since become by far the most active yacht and yacht-racing center on the North Atlantic co: Sailboats predominate boats in the harbor tn a handful al of Yachting of more than 200 « normal summer, sre powerboats, Races are276 divided info Sévei or efght classes, Normuilly there-are 70 or 80 entries each Saturday from mid-June to mid-September. In race week, the first in August, there have been more than single race day, the war years icing has continued on restricted courses, with about a third the usual number of starts, In late May, 1945, from the vantage point of Old Burial’ Hill 1 counted more-than 100 boats at anchor in the hatbor.. One-of the most interesting features of Mar- behead racing is the part taken by children. At the age of seven, they get down to the serious busitiess of learning to sail. ‘They wear Kapok jackets for safety, because, asa rule, they have not learned to swim. ‘That knowl ‘edge comes soon, however. At eluht or nine, boys and girls are racing in small, wide centerboard boats known ss. “brutal beasts." At 14 they are too old for these boats and must go with o larger class. A nautical instructor and a police power patrol: boat look after the safety of the children. Gloucester Foremost Fishing Port Just a5 yachts fill the harbor of Marble- head, so commercial fishing craft fill the safe inner harbor of Gloucester, 14 miles northeast ‘of Salem. Boston and Gloucester have long competed for position as premier fishing port of the North: Atlantic; today Gloucester proudly holes the tithe (Plates TH and NII), nnolly hus written many novels about the little city and its fisher- : men and has helped make it ane of the best- known small ports of the world. Fishermen operated from Gloucester three years after Plymouth was settled, and the in- habitants have almost literally eaten, slept, and thought fish ever since The early N colonists would have perished ies. Today the situation is not so serious, but with the present shortage of meat the relative economic innportance of fish is difficult to exaggerate. For the mest part, the continents of the world are borderes| by strips of gently sloping ocean battom covered hy shallow sea, ‘These strips are known as the continental shelf. Northeast of the New England coast and off the coasts of Canada’s Maritime Provinces and Newfoundland are extensive shoals, or banks," the waters of which are rich in salts, or chemicals, and in: the various: nutrients that maintain the plankton population on which sea animals feed. There is no such variety of fish in these céld, northera waters as the ‘Tropics provide, The National Geographic Magazine but the prodigious concentration of a few essential to the highly mechanized ‘The Gloucester Taking schooner, from the decks of which fish were caught by hand line and baited hook, or from which dorles went ‘out to fish, are things of the past. Gloucester's predéminant fishing heat is now the otter trawler, especially of the modium or “dragger” size, "It is pawered by nm Diesel engi Itis.a heavy, squat, sturdy boat, built clase to the water to stand the shock of towing the dragnet along the ocean's floor to sweep up.the fish and to hoist them by winch. ‘The type of net used is known as an otter trawl, a iurge, flattened conical bag drageedt slowly over the ocean Boor, Whether or not it unduly destroys the life of the sea is a much- studied question, At any rate, it produces vast quantities of fish, permits fishing in winter as well as som mer and in all bot the yery worst weather, obviates, the necessity for scarce and enstly bait, and has: saved the lives of a great number of fishermen. Looking at a drigger, one i impressed by the great amount of machinery, ‘or pear, required to operate it, Gloucester has become the premier fishing port on the east coast Inngély because of redfish, officially known as roseiish, Except for the Ttalian and Portuguese fishermen who made soup of thei, these small fish were wholly neglected tintil a few vears ago (Plate V), ‘Yet, inv 1944, 91,579,000 pounds were landed and sold in Gloucester. In numbers caught, redfish now far exceed tackerel in Gloucester. ‘They are shipped to a large extent to the Mid- dle West. Although Gloucester has been the salt-cod centet for several centuries, a recent impor- tant commercial development hus been the combination of filleting, quick freezing, and tnick transportation. This development en~ ables thin-meated fish like redfish to compete successfully with meatier fishes as regards transportation costs, A by-product of filleting is “waste.” In less than twelve hours after the draggers unload their catches at the Gloucester piers, truck- loads of skins, heads, tails, and bones are-on their way to factories where nationally adver- tised brands of glue are made, or perhaps to other plants which turn out chicken feed and fertilizer. ‘Through the course of years there has been a murked decrease in the proportion of fisher- men of Yankee derivation and an ri Tttlians and Portuguese, with some infiltration of Newfoundlanders and other nationalities.Northeast of Boston a7 Kennebunkport Notables Discuss Down-cavt Weather ennethi Rol " antl Roberts ds a farmer. “Tark™ jestingh be kidaaga everybody's house guests to help get In the b ‘Tarkington's hurboe-houtid schooner, Be bas cut holes Jt Although the fishermen's incomes are now exceedingly high, relatively, there was a long period when the scale of living seemed low to those of Yankee: stock. The ins and crews fish where the choose ure not instructed where to g by the process, and ship the fish, There are miles of wharves in Gloucester where boats unload and where the many pack= ing industries conduct their various depart- ments, such fresh fish, frozen fish, sult and dried fish, canned fish and smoked fish, T know of no more fascinating eceupation hun to sit on a pier in the “Fort,"” where the Ialian fleet is moored, and watch the grizaled. thick-set, gray-haired Italians, with the aid of their 12- and 14-year-old boys, unload their shiny catches. Sh © System on Fishing Boats ‘The Italians start their children as young as 12, the sons of captains learning to handle the valuable Diesel engine at 14 or 15, Some second-generation Ttalian captains were taken back to Taly at the age of four and put on fishing boats ta become accustomed te. them. it. Millions of praclant priv Ky in hayin are abourd the Regina. fall with the tide told the author The two fe trams. £0 it As in the old a is done ot m share bi In the typical “lay,” or share system, used on the medium-sized otter trawler, part of the ds gues to the owner of the vesse! and the captain and crew. The owner pays part: of the trip's expenses, and captain and. crew pay part Certain. joint expenses are deducted, and the remainder divided on a 60-40 basis. Out of the crew's 60 percent ‘shire are deducted the cost of the food, fuel off and lubricants, and ice for the eight months from Oetober 1 to May 31 (cost of ike for the other four months comes from the joint share); also the mate's bonus and the cook's bonus. The owner, out of his 40 percent share of the net proceeds, pays the eaptain a commis- sion of 10 percent, furnishes the fishing gear, pays for repairs, overhauling, insurance, taxes, and all other vessel expenses, Fishing on Georges Bank and the Grand Banks and off the dreaded shoals of Sable Island was formerly a very dangerous oceus pation. Often men trawling from dories were lost from the mother ship, In a single night in 1826 fifteen ve 120 men were lost, leaving 70 widows « els with nd 140The National Geographic Magazi Here Lived “Lord” Timothy Dexter, Who F: Shrewd though ecoontite, this Ne jed the Yard with 40 Si 47-1906), ance corn unctuation nelling, he wrote A Pickle for the Knowin, at the end-of the p t for readers la “peper Ht us they plese.” Qwer ae ‘ mick funeral for himself and bent his wife for not weeping. This b yu t have been gone for a century, but the wat and widow's walk pare 1. Since 1930 cester has’ } it ican Beet in a,as Iw 836 men and 1,026 ships still The advent of the powered fleet x has greatly reduced J by fallin nyered Church of ur A few miles fron Past ¢ ror the few days:a p of archdioceseNorth A Bronze Fisherman Looks Here eath August, Glaucest are strewn on the ebbing waters (page 278). Although the famous sailing fleet has gone, Gloucester and other near-by places on Cape Ana, such as Rockport, still constitute one of the most important summer art colonies in the country (Plate 1). The Incal chamber of commerce says that $000 artisis visit Cape Ann every summer and that fully 500 make their suminer homes there. Many visitors are students who later become regular summer residents. Picturesque qualities of the fishing industry first attracted the artists, The gracefully looped nets, acres of drying covlfish, myste- riouslooking wharves, gleaming piles of fish, and grizzled, swarthy, slicker-covered fisher- men are still there. sist of Boston meruoriallzes Its fishermen te: Leonare! Crashe created The Glou Sea, Where 10,000 Gloucester Men Died. intened tea. Fisherriats dduting the Year. The te In addition, all aver Cape Ann there are beaches, rocks, surf, quaint village streets, sind dunes, granite quarries, and rocky up- land pastures ‘The heart of the older art colony is Roc Neck, which runs out from East Gloucester into Gloucester Harbor, It ix connected with the mainland by a narrow causeway’ that sep ratés the inner and outer harbors. Cham= plain landed! there in 1606 t6 calk his shallop. Rocky Neck isa colorful jumble af studies, Ship repair yards, shops, a theatrical and wharves from which fishing: trips Some of the studins are in ald sail lofts, some on wharves in tiers, upper and lower, and some in bungalows.280 The ‘On the coast a few miles beyond ester are the quaint old towns of Essex and Ipiswich. ‘They contain the best-known clam marshes in ‘New England, althouglt there is hardly abit of intertidal shore without a few clams, which the local people. consider their birthright. In addition, Essex has built fishing. vessels for Gloucester for nearly three centuries, for there was a: heavy growth af white aak near by when the industry began, One of Glouces- ter's old sayin, “Let Essex fruild her and Gloucester rig her, and then you have a vessel!” In Essex T watched a small Gloucester fish- ing boat being built by elderly workmen in almost the same spot where the town stranted an acre for the purpuse in 1668, Ii to Salem, Marblehead, and Gloucester be added Newburyport, near the niouth of the Merrimack River, all four In Massachusetts, and Portsmouth, near the mouth of the Pisca- tnqua River, int New Hampshire, we have one of the country’s most historie short stretches of coast. Fram Clipper Ships to Submarines Along Newburyport’: High Street stand the stately mansions of former shipowners and sea captains, testifying to the city’s early eminence as a center of- fishing, shipbuilding, West Indian and European trade, distilling, and goldsmnithery. Later, beiween 1841 and 1843, Donald Me Kay brought fame to Newburyport by butld- ing packet ships there. of the fime old houses, at 201 High Street, was occupied by self-styled “Lord” Timothy Dexter, an eccentric but cunning, speculator, who bought up depreciated Con- tinental currency during and after the Revolu- tion (page 278}. In addition, he is said to have sold 42,000 warming pans in the West Indiest Dexter filled the yard of his house with 40 life-sized wooden statues af himself, Adam and Eve, three of the Apostles, Washington, Jeffer- son, Benjamin Franklin, and Lord Nelson! Between Boston and Newburyport runs, for more than 30 miles in an almost straight Tine, the Newburyport Turnpike, the modern high- way following one of the earliest stage routes in America, The straight-line requirement, a common delusion at that time, proved unfortunate for the turnpike corporation, which was chartered in 1803. Private travelers prefetred to go through the centers of population, even though on roads that were winding but fairly level; whereas the turnpike went right over the steep hills. ational Geographic Magazine ‘Wedged In between the long coasts of Mas: sachuselis and Maine, New Hampshire has only 16 miles of coastling,* ‘This is because John Mason, who had lived in Hampshire, England, was given a grant in 1620 by the Council for New England of ‘that part of the main land of New Englund” be tween the Merrimack and Piscataqua Rivers, and the only change in these eoastn) bound- aries eince then has been the removal of the Massachusetts-New Hampshire line three miles north of the Mertimack, Portsmouth, first known as Piscataqua and then as Strawberry Hank. is one of the coun- try’s oldest cities and New Hampshire's only seaport. It has had a Navy Vard ever since the Revo- lution. In it in 1905 was signed the Treaty af Portsmouth, which not only ended the Russo- ‘Japanese War but gave formal sanction to the Supplanting by Japan of Russian interests and political influence in Korea and southern ‘Manchuria. I sented Japan's first forward step in territorial expansion on the Asiatic mainland Strictly speaking, the Navy Yard is aot in Portsmouth or in New Har ire, but an ‘neat-by islands in ‘the Pisentaqua River in the town of Kittery, Maine, Private shipbuilding yards in Portsmeuth were used at the Navy's start; later, lands were purchased! for a navy yard, But Ports- mouth was retained as the Yard's post office; hence the name, Hildegirde Hawthorne once wrote that “Portsmouth is like a fine old man who has done his hard work . . . and is now content to, sit quietly in the sun and spin yarns, ../‘¢ But watching thousends of Navy Vard workers pour through the delightful, dignified old streets ut the shift hour, 1 did not feel that the old man was Sone so saa. ‘The Navy. began to build submarines bere during World War T and has bers here in the present conflict. The Yard's personnel multiplied at least fivefold over peacetime, and the little eity’s population increased nearly 40 percent. Few American cities have retained so per- feetly the appearance of an early American seaport, once so proud and prosperous. ‘There is a mass of old buildings, urge and small, In some cases they are of truly magnificent pro- puttions, side by side, to an estent rarely seen. Open to visitors is the house where John Sec, in the Nanbxat Gxoaxarnic Madson, New Hampshite, the Granite State!" by Geanee Higginé Moses, September, 1951 + From Old Seaport Fosons of Nec England, pub= lished ty Dodd, Mead! & Conipany, Inc.. nylani Meets the Sew Where NewMagazine ig The National Geo; faine Wa Fame a forest path. Vette }‘orth Paul Jones lived while his famous vessel, the Ranger, was being built; the boyhood home of ‘Thomas Bailey Aldrich, furnished as he de- scribed it in his seiniiutobiographical Story af a Bad Boy; and the birthplace of Tobias ‘Lear, who became private secretary to Gearge Washington. From Kittery, Maine, to West oddly Head, most easterly point in the United States, is 220 miles in a straight line. But ‘the tidal high-water line of the Maine coast, including islands, is more than fifteen times as long, the U, S. Coast and Geodetic Survey figure being 3,478 miles. ‘The “Fjords” of Maine This fx because the coast, especially from Portland on, is notched and indented to an extraordinary degree and broken up by an alinost continuous array of buys, estuaries, in- Jets, sortnds, coves, and rivers, great and small, including such major streams as the Kennebec and Penobscot. Speaking of the “undulations and ramifics- tions” of the shoreline, the preliminary report ‘of the Maine Geological Survey, dated 1861, says that ‘no State of the Union, and perhaps ‘no single nation, can exhibit the same extent ‘of Sracuast so magnificent, viewed either in regard to its. shore and island scenery, or as to its valuable bays and safe moorings.” Tn sober fact, there is much to justify the State pride of the geolonist. It has often been stated that Maine has some 4,000 ishinds. But there is ne official confir- mation of this claim, eithet from Federal or State sources, Where there are vast numbers of rock for- mations, as along the Maine coast, the diffi- culty in making an official tabulation of is- lands lies in deciding just how small a rock can be included. ‘The Coast and Gendetic Survey was obliged many years ago to supplement the standard method of taking soundings along the Maine shore with the wire-drag method, in which a wire is strung between two launches at fixed depths below the surfice. In some places where. the older surveys showed depths as great as 80 feet, the wire drag, by eatehing pinnacle rocks, disclosed depths as shallow as 17 feet. However, more thin 1,000 Maine coustal islands have been listed by name and location. ‘There are several large archipelagoes, espe- clilly in Casco and Penobscot Bays. Eagle Island, on Casco Bay's outer rim, was long the home of Admiral Robert E. Peary, discoverer af the North Pole, The islands, interdependent and yet each of Boston 289 with distinct features of its own, fringe the entire coast from Portland on, With rocky and abrupt shores, many have a forthright ‘and ttigged beauty. ‘Even though large primeval forests have gone, it is very common for fir and spruce to grow down to the water's edie. ‘A few remote outposts of the sea, such as Monhegan, objective of the earliest explorers and fishermen, are too rocky to support much vegetation. In addition to summer residlents, many of the islands are inhabited by native fishermen, although island populations are said ta be smaller than fifty years ago and to have suf- fered especially: in the last few years from the high wages in mainland war plants, From several of these islands care members of the America’s Cup defender crews. Some of the islands are “plantations,” ‘This term goes back to colonial times, but means in Maine today a minor civil division or unit of local government having a status between that of an organized township and an incorporated town, Mount Desert hus great sea cliffs and is almost cut in two by the {jordlike Somes Sound. tis the latvest tock-built ishand om our Atlantic coast and jt has one of the highest coastal elevations (Cadillac Mountain, 1,530 feet) north of Rin de Janeiro, Brazil Its bold mountain ranges loom up from the mainland U.S. No. 1 Highway like some strange, crouching monster, or, as the poet Whittier said: And Desert Rock, abrupt and bare, Lifts its ray turrets in the air, Seva from atu, like some stronghold Built bs the ocvan kings af old loucester's most favored redfish grounds lie 20 miles cif Mount Desert and from 5 to 20 miles off Matinicus, one of the more remote ‘of Maine's island outposts. It is 14 miles off- shore. Labstermen of Maine But commercial fishing in Maine, although of vital importance to almost every town and. hamlet along its far-flung const, is not a highly centralized and mechanized form of big tusi- ness, as in Gloucester and Boston. Maine is still the stronghold of thousands of individual, small-scale fishermen, many engaged in hand lining, and of individual lob- stermen. do nothing but fish; others cut pulp Mi “Unique Island of Mount Desert,” by George. rr, Ernest Howe Forbush, and ML. Fernald. Nartowat Grockarnic Madamne July, 19145. and. SFist National Park East of the Mbalssippi River,” June, 1910.290 or farm a lite in summer, Frequently it is difficult to distinguish between the fisherman- Lobsters are found from the Viruinia capes Labrador, but in Maine they provide a paramount shore industry, In idling, lobe Sters must be imported from Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, and Newfoundland to supply the United States’ demand." Lobstering does inot lend itself to: masepri- duetion methods. Euch individual trap, or pot, has to be set and baited, for lobsters are caught fike mice. It is inshore work, and therefore conducted wholly from small boats, But powerboats are taking the place of dories, and an individual lobsterman may care for 100 traps or more, instead! of 30 of 40 as formerly, A Ricky: Business The business is a risky one, for the operutar must constantly repair and replace his traps, A severe storm may destroy all of them. Little lobster is canned, so great is the de mand for the fresh teat. There is no trade in raw dead flesh, as im other kinds of fish and meats the lobster is kept alive to the last possible moment. This is probably the reason why lobsters are sold mostly to hotels, clubs, and restau- rants much more than to housewives, who dislike boiling a live creature, Nuyers with lobster smacks go from one hamlet to another slong the Maine. coast, buying mp eath day's catch. The Consoli- daied Lobster Company. of Gloucester buys irom 3,500 individual fishermen, from Glouces- ter to New Brunswick (Plate TV). “This company keeps ns many as half a mil lion lobsters alive in its tanks in Gloucester, itional capacity in Baston, ‘They are ry few holirs an expensive food and kept : running salt water, for lobsters die quickly in fresh water, Packed in ice and rockweed, they can be shipped safely to west em States, Production is very Iow in Winter morithis, and in summer lobsters are stored to meet the winter demand, The industry has expanded rapidly iy Maine in the last few years, al- though fewer than $,000 fishermen accounted: for the 1944 catch, Commissioner Arthur R. Greenleaf of ‘Maine's Sea and Shore Fisheries Department says that many new people have entered the industry recently, “In fact, there are a great many’ persons fishing totlay who three months ago did not know one end of a boat fram another.” The National Geographic Magazine One of the oldest fisheries of Maine is prob- ably alewifeé dipping. These fish run up the coastal streams from April until Inte in June. ‘The statement is made on responsible authority that it has heen passible in one river for one man to dip as many #5 100 barrels of fish a day (page 262), In the early spring of 1782, at the close of the Revolution, what is now the town of War- ten was close to starvatir But on the last dav of April alewives came into the St. George iver, with the resulting jingh Thosmston for hexuty. Rockland fer pr {WC Ht had tut beom forthe aleselves, Warren would have died. ‘The town futhers restricted the fishing and divided the catch evenly amwng the inhabit- ants, a custom generally {allowed elsewhere in the State, As the original idea of town control was to bebefit the poor, the rights to the annual run were and still are auctioned off to the highest hidder by town officials. Tf we enter the State of Maine, as the Com- monwealth is officially designated. at Kittery and follow U.S. No, tte the Canadian border, we pass through many quiet old towns and « few cities. ‘Their graceful and substantial sea captains’ houses: bear solid witness to a great bygone period of shipbuilding and shipping + ‘There is the dignified metropolis. itself, Portland, with its superb views of Casco Bay from the Eastern Promenade. “This city serves us gateway 10 and distributing center for an extensive matitime iirea, ‘There is Bangor, on the Penobscot River, sald to have weleamed mare than 3,000 ships in a single year in the days when a vast com- merce of lumber, ice, and pther commodities moved down the river, ‘There is Brunswick, seat af historic Bow- doin College (ate XT), near the campus of which one may see the hause where Harriet Heecher Stowe wrote much of Uncle Tom's Cabin, Port of Arctic Expeditions ‘There are typical seacoust towns, such as Wiscasset, associated with Dotald B. Mac- i retic expeditions, and tiny Sears: port, which in its time is said to have built 300 ships. ‘(Or we can take what seem like innumerable ‘See The Book of Fishes, published by the Na- Monat Geviraphie, Saciety {See “'Maine, the Outpast State." by George Otis Sah sn Cio A nn a, TERE the NariowaL Groceamnie M. “the Bowdotn tc Noch Greet *The MacMillan Arctic Expect Weber, 1025 both by Donald B, MueMillan"an Idculized Mural Hangs in Kennebunkpart Post Office ace H. White, Jr. objected fore and it” Gilt April, 1445, when ML ull of “fat women side roads down the many penins ancl small, to almost every nook of the eoas ‘tractive old bunkport, with Booth beth Roberts as res id paite Harbor and other fashionable with their Ford and om and Ken dustries, otie may go to t mebec River, wher frst attery ment in New England oath and Sale Before colonists had their effort, they had mannged to Virgin first ship to be eon- by: and quite unkns structed t - Af the Penobscot Bay rezh ean Co passed, and especially beyond Ellsworth, jun Some e highway to Mount Desert, one is Rockefeller estates. Side Roads 1¢ Sequeste Towns ial vil may lead to coa n track, seldon the general thas ‘been292 in the strictest and most technical meaning of the phrase, “down East,"” ‘The character of the country. seems to change. ‘Tiny settlements at the bead of o cut by inlets and watercourses have a windy, ‘hilly, granitelike Iook. Tt isa brilliant but remote, lonely, and seem- ingly barren land, frequented relatively little by either summer visitors or cruising coastal yachtsmen, I visited this country in ite October. The entire male population, wearing heavy red +: funnel shirts, ceemed to be engaged either in mending the snow fences along the rands or in adding-to the enormous woodpiles. attached to every house. Two “Seasone”—July and Winter Tt is not quite true, however, that Maine ‘has only two seasons, July and winter, In fact, many things are not what they op- pear to be. From the extensive “barrens that stretch back from’ the coast hi these down-east Maine counties, mostly from: soil denuded of its original timber growth, comes ai major portion of the country’s blueberries | for canning {Plate VIE), ‘These berries, gaing normally tw wholesale pie bakers, constitute one of the ehiel pie fillers of the Nation. The lard, privately owned by many differ- ‘nt persons, must he burned over at intervals to ensure spontaneous growth. ‘The biggest crop and the highest price oft record came in 1948, with some 400,000 bushels selfing at more than $5 a bushel, One grower raised 14,000 bushels. Increasingly, erries are being frozen, ‘This section of the New Eniglind coast is a land of low. average summer temperatures, high density of fog, surdines, and tremendous ‘The “sardine” is not the name of any partie- ular fish, but of any that is soft in terms of "For additional articles tn the NariowAL Go= tare Manasonc on Masachusett. New Hamp= shire, md Malic, sees “Hoxton ‘Through Midwest ives." by Frederick Simpich. July, 1986: “Sklimg Over the New. Hampahire Hills” by Fred H. Hareis, February, 1920; “In the Allagash Country.” bs: Ken~ eth Fuller Lee. Apeil From Noteh to Notch ‘in the White Modntaine,” hy Leonard Carnell Roy, July, 1087; “Geography of a Hurricane,” by F Bar Fnwes Colton, 19395 "New England Ski Trails.” bby Danie! Newember, 19. g {and's Wonderfand of Mountain. Lak U4 ie. in olor, September, 19515 and of Now Eniland," by Albert W. Atwood, April, 1045. The National Geographic Magazine bone texturé, small in size, rich in flavor, and capable of being preserved in oil, In Maine itis the herring. At one time Maine had 73 sardine factories, mostly on points that jut ot Into the seq. While the men af the family catch the her- ting, the womenfolk are employed as packers in the cienneries, Formerly the herring were caught in weirs, more than 1,000.of which lined the shores near Fastpart and Lube. A more modern method is the seine hoat, on the stern of which a large revolving spool un- winds a seine which quickly encircles the swim- ming, fish. ‘Moonless nights in summer and early. au- tummn are considered ideal for scining: a phns- Phorescent glow helps the scouts to distinguish achools of herring iveding inshore, ‘Lubec, one of the chief centers of the sardine industry, is the most easterly town and post office in the United States and is only a few miles from West Quoddy Head. Tt is 3 miles by water from Eastport, but 40 by land. ‘There is no more picturesque sight in New England than a Lubec sardine factory at low: tide, standing on its stilts in the mud and surrounded by countless screaming and switl- ing stalls, Tide Range Up to 26 Feet ‘The tide range fn this section is the sreatest in continental United States. It averages about 18 feet, with an extreme range of 26 feet. ‘Ut was here that the Passsmaquoddy Tidal Power Development Project, one of the mast controversial of New Deal enterprises, was be- kun—and abandoned. Authorities on tides insist that it was en- tirely feasible as an engineeting matter and that such projects may become necessary in the distant future when coal and oil give out. Whether it was economically feasible at the time is another question, An extensive range in tide does strange things ta the appearance: of a harbor, but it has practical advantages, not the least of which is to keep open all winter ports which wauld otherwise he frozen solid. From the docks in Lubec one looks across a narrow channel, through which the outgoing tidal waters rush ax in a millrace, to the Canadian shore, where, on Campobello Island, one plainly sees the summer home of the late President Franklin D, Roosevelt,*Keeping House in Borneo. By Virgisia y HUSBAND said T would have to look under every chair T sat in for shakes, scorpions, and centipedes. ‘My mother-in-law in Holland said to take at least eight dozen sheets and pillow slips be- cause, no matter how tough they were, wouldn't Inst long under the beating they ré- ceived on washil My father-in-law said to remember always that in the Indies we whites were not living in our own country, but in a land of other peoples whos: strange customs had prevailed for hundreds of years before the commence- ment of our own era. 1 should, like wll gaod Dutch colonials, try. to adapt myself to the native life om the island, Awed by all this, I told my family not to worry, for 1 would be back fora visit in two years and, looking at the may, said that I'd go ‘often for week ends to see friends in Manila.* Armed with advice, good intentions, and ideas about tropical living gathered from the movies, I set out to begin housekeeping in Borneo, Coffee percolater and curtain materials were ‘necessities. Chiffon evening gowns exposed a perspiring back at dances and were a prob- ‘Jem where there were no cleaners, ‘The hand- some sun helmet was never worn, and. there were not half enough cotton washables. My life there Listed not two years but ten, ‘broken only by a vacation after the first five. Manila was too far away for visits. Island of Heavy Rainfall and High Golor Third largest island in the world, Borneo wears the Equator for a belt and lifts. her leafy face through intense humid heat to some of the world’s heaviest rains, and to equally glaring sunlight. Borneo may not he so beau- tiful as some of her smaller sisters of the Malay Archipelago, but in her dense foliage are found, in sudden color, some of the most ‘wonderful jewels of the flower kingdom; and under her dark surface bide brilliant diamonds and many-hued semiprecinus stones, ‘Someday her almost inaccessible jungle may. yield its “teak,” billian (Borneo ironwndd), thony, sandalwood, and other beautiful tim- bers, as man finds means to track Borneo’s surface with roads to the deep interior, like the rivers and streams that wind their numer- ous ways to the sea. But it will be a tre- mendous undertaking, for Borneo's jungle fights back with a patient, imperishable te- nacity and strength (page 305). Haninron Borneo's lifeblood is the black il flowing along her coastline. In some places, it is ‘of such high quality that it can he used almost as it ows from the earth (page 290). It was til which brotight my hushand and me to the island, It was oif to feed one of the largest refineries in the Far East at Bilikpapan which kept us mowing, pushing ever farther inland (map, page 297). ‘To live in Borneo means fiving in the lane of the head-hunter—not 2 comforting thought to one who has not been there. At inland Amoentai, we were surrounded by Dyak country, with only a narrow strip of ground along the river populated by Mohammedan Indonesians and 2 few Europeans. No sooner wete the curtains hung in our Tittle native house than I heard the neighbors talking about a human head found buried near by. “Head-hunting Dyaks, no doubt,” was the opinion, and I felt « profound dislike for these Borneo aborigines, Tt took me a long time to realize that, al- though Dyaks had been head-huniters 2 genera- tion or (wo earlier, they now tarely break into this type of entertainment and are kindly, peaceful people:+ They have little interest in the white man’s civilization except for his cotton goods and Kerosene cans. Nor have they any love for the Mohammedan religion. For generations they have gone farther and farther inland in small, isolated groups that do not speak = common language and have little contact with each other. about ten o'clock, when the heat of morning became intense, I wnuld welcome the peddlers who wandered (rom house to house. One was a Chinese whose pack held silks, cottens, and laces, Anuther was a Malay, and at his call knew 1 would find something he had persuaded a Dyak to part with. Long before I saw 2 Dyuk T bud bought many of their articles, ‘Their jackets made of tree bark have now been replaced by ones of Javanese cotton materials. But they still use long blowpipes and bamboo quivers filled with poisonous arrows as their principal hunt- ing weapons, ‘Their round, deep hats served as lampshades in our little house (page 310). Woven baskets mace wastepaper containers *'See, int the! Narioseat (Guocnaninnc “Manatree, “Facts about the Philippines,” Februury, 1942, and ““Rteturn to Manila,” October, 1940, both by Brederick Simpich {Ser “Notes om the Sea Dyaks of Burnea," by Edwin H. Gomes, in the Naniowat Groceaanic Mac acest, Aitgtist, 1911,294 The National Geographic Magazine corched - ayeun undert ff the ¢ kassar (map sueper mies roy cof bombs. On July f Austral hor Thes found Ralikpapan's il plants’ in mitin for as Is; have w cremation of all who have died during ted those years 4 Dyak is rarely without his parang, and Once the dead have been taken from their it was these swords, more than anything else, temporary buriat {s the remains must whie ired me.of the abse not touch the earth again until p for Veurs ago the tasse! cremation. For miles arvund the chosen nthe hilt came irc kampoug (village), which was a tiny settle T was never to see one which had ment some distance from Ampab, the lnowely thing more gruecome thin goat’s whiskers for wrapped bodies tied to-the branches of trees at ions night looked like huge bir A Dyak On arrival at their destination the bones of ‘ the dead of each family are assembled in a ich small boat-shaped coffin (page 308). Ti One evening, after a day when the st {raw rubber slabs being louled on the river adheres to the bones, this is scrip hoat outside my door had been enough to give mains were in all stages af slecom: me a splitting head, my husband came home Leould really understan im to say that it smelled like heaven compared puct upon my husband's nose and could ir with what he ba through, If 1 could stund the olor, he would take mé toa Dyak whet feclings while be was in the kampo the ceremany was to take place, There ceremony he had watehed the bones be scraped, while Every ten years the Dyaks around Ampah pigs and hali-wild dogs hovered. hungrily205 A Rickety Fish Trap off Sarawak Supports 4 Homes Shark fin to World eam ry Living Quarters for [ts Strange ta the West Its bévhe-de-tuer, of sea ee too, are export delicacies, "fortoise shell an ‘= China’ thick well An ald prieste: ntly prayed over them The close air held the scent of herbs, coconut oil, and food. A bowl of liquid and a kero: ite is a sene lamp were on the only Phe Hany it was a cast weird sha the Tormented, witchlike woman, seeming! trance, of Dyaks and crouched among urangs, she would fall * faded sarong and , a pil finally into a deep pit where she was left to die, low-shapee turban om the old times until 1937, when the last hag mumbled a prayer to a through were held h cpl (native cow) took —toathless jaws. At the same t splashed ace of the man, since Dutch law fiquid from the bow! or threw bits of rice and further human sacrifice. Ithad taken dried herbs from her dirty scarf to the eof ations'of patient compromise to eradicate fins. Several bodies occupied each coffin, and from the Dyak code their c aa catved | sacrifice, Tt was possible even in its sig modified form this might be the last ritual its kind ‘The € or snake's head on the prow 1 whether a man or w of the family dead com started w i teat 300 Sets ef Bones arrived, sto. the be Food, crockery, and were piled or communi 4 the 3-foot-long re There were ness, stacked in neat piles, were the ct od ea296 From the eerie gloom of the palit we went find sunshine. There, looking vB at us; we met the eyes of a very scrubbed and smil- ing old gentleman. It was unusual to see any one here dressed sp neatly in white Exroy elothing. Even more star was the Maltese cross of the Willem’s Order, highest military decoration of Holland, so seldam bestowed. The charming old man ware the cross: on his breast and explained in perfect Dutch that he had inherited it from his fther, a Dyak chief and a Christian, The chiefs tomb was built hy the Indies government just outside the kampong. Here roses struyeled to grow ovet the simple concrete building. Pots of freshly cut gar- denias were at the doar, and a beautiful painted plaque in memory of the great chief hung on the wall inside. ‘The fact that the receptacles holding the gardenias were nothing more than battered pots de chambre did not detract from the whole effect, for here was a cambination of printitive simplicity and the highest, proudest dignity. We picked our way over little bridgelike paths of bamboo riinning in all directions from the Balai built for these observances and walked the mile through jungle to the funcral pyre. Those chosen to cook and distribute the food niust not touch the earth until the three weeks’ ceremenies are conchuded. Jn the clearing we took our places on a rickety platform built of saplings with a wide bamboo ladder for steps, At the other end of the platform, slightly raised above our level, was the pyre. It was nothing more than wery green saplings placed like a picket fence against a railing, Back of this, in the ground, was a deep pit Slowly, with chanting, came the families beating food erings and coins frm the pala. As the clearing quickly filled with Dyaks, T noticed how much lighter in color were these natives than the typical Malays 1 saw in the Indies. Most of the faces had a resemblance to the Chinese. Their religion also shower! Chinese. influences, tracing back to the ce turies when the inese and a few Hindus settled and mixed with the peoples of Horneo, A family took their: places on the platform, ‘The women squatted in front of us near the pyre, ‘The men lifted the first enffin, prow end containing the skulls upward, ty rest it vertically against the fenee of siplings. ‘Two bodies were in this cnffim, a baby and an old man, For each a white chicken was struck against the lid of the box to kill it before it was thrown over the coffin into the pit, to be followed by water and food for the The National Geographic Magazine dead, A dry branch of & tree was brought to stand against. the coffin, its twigs filled with little cakes, fruits, and sinall bundles af food Wrapped in banana leaves, ‘The fire was not large. Tt burned slowly, creeping gradually up the wooden boxes. “The meh pressed sticks against the flat lid to keep it from falling as the fire loosened its bindings ‘Then, suddenly, it burned furiously, The cover fell away and charred bones: began te drop out. As these were shoved back into the flames: the women covered their heads, swaying and meaning in conventional grief. Suilenly the whole coffin flared up. A skull rolled down into the Aatming muss. ‘There was quick action, as men and women draw, stork inives (rom thelr bells, These were held for a momient between their owners’ teeth; them the flat side was pressed to their foreheadls and, held out to touch the foreheads of every person within reach. Burial of the Bones Finally, ax the bones became blackened bits, the women prepared an iron pot for the re- mains, lining it with the clothes of the dead. The fire was extinguished -with water mixed with coconut liquid, poured from special gourds prepared and blessed for this purpose, Speedily the remains were collected into the pot: the Women carried them away As the men Cleared into the pit all that was left, making ready for the next family to cremate its dead We watched until the sun had set: darkness spread quickly throuh the thick trees Mil- lions of insects began their evening songs, turning the green growth, so quiet during the day, into a noisy accompaniment for moans nf the motirning and the crackle of fire, which continued through the night and into the next day. ‘As we stumbled back to. our car through mud and darkness, we realized again, as we did so often while living among these primi- tive peoples, that ulthough dying holds ne very reat fears for them, the ghosts af the dead are a constant terror, making the night hideous with the haunting of evil spirits. Everything ‘must be done to placate the ghosts’ tenacious evil will, which brings disesse andl sorrow on ‘the living. “The last of the cereinony, which took plice after another seveq days of rest, we missed hecattse of floods, "This is a fight between the living and the ghosts of the dead. After feasting and drinking of native wine, the ritual begins as a das Half the village takes the part of the living: the other half. the ghosts of the dead. From adance it grad- nally grows into a frenaled battle.Anambas Ellancen #llesde Foal ‘Condare oo nee ray trate SiO uT a CHiN a bad Ree > ma ae OS BSA. wusat pe canton ls Cut into Four Slices “Royal Charonta iis owns the laree o Reet chartered company pl tains old, semiprectous ‘OM and rubber enrich its coasts Lineeeb and trabers a eeaee Nensoe 2 “ Bintulu uid &! Sea nd eg and i Sy lt TandioengDetoak og uss SE Spnig Pale i Be oe es CELEBES 4 ga eKampanahan © tal 8 ss mKatabarve ng on ee, on on ea ae oe & 2 pacer ES aie BE ec lee ener we if kl AS ute mle te v mh fates Elen an Mo ree ee » Makassar, 008 iboetton, Keene ingeg Sorted “a Takai a se ati on ee ets ete’ z sae f az F8Se 2 angean $ AS PS ot ; Se & Sie al oe ww300 ‘The ancestors of these Hyaks fought their battle with knives and swords, to the death of most pf one side or the other, Now the tribesmen fight with sticks and poles and no serious damage is done. Balikpapan a Modern City 1 was delightfully surprised on first seeing Balikpapan (page 204). We were whisked from the dock ina Buick touring car over asphalt roads that ran through an un- bélievable array of factaty shops and all the hustle and noise of a great refinery, Somehow, before seeing Borneo, 1 had imagined that a ‘bullock cart would be my means of travel, a coalie going on ahead to cut down the lianas choking our path, We needed no bullock cart, however, for wherever one could go there was an oiled road, and there were cars to carry us, or boats for inland travel, Occasionally, along the road, there was a village with cozy homes or an olf field, Surrounding these spots, with their electric lights and telephones, within a stone's throw of the last village house, the jungle shut out civilization, to grow omindusly in somber patience, This customary and pecesary to know the Malay language if one lives in the Indies, Many of the 70,000,000 islanders speak ‘only their native tongue, but Malay is com- monly used and ‘understood, Since the islands are the country of the Malays, where, legally, a white persm may own land only under certain conditions, Hol- landers de not demand that Dutch be spoken to them, ‘They use Malay in the Indies as they would use French in France or English in the United States. My fitst months in Borneo were spent in pantomime, as I sat at the sewing machine making curtnins and frantically learning Malay and Dutch. Moving into 16 houses in ten years, I found both houses and house= keeping were much the same, Before furniture was brought in, floors and walls were washed with a disinfectant. Under the rugs a layer of ald newspapers was spread. ‘They were mostly old American papers, From them [could learn what had been going on in Boston and Galveston and could read the editorials of three years before. Because the ravenous flying. cockroach doesn't appreciate newsprint, he will at least not eat the underside of the Tugs. No better does he like borax powder sprinkled freely in all cupbosrls and wardrobes. I soon learned that these precautions apply only to the under- side of things! When darkness: falls, the cockroach comes ‘The National Geographic Magazine out of hiding or fies in the window, bent an a night of destruction. He eats almost any- thing from soup to silk. 1 spent ten years with a native slipper not far from me after nightfall, Never did I become accustomed to the pop of these two-inch-long brown in- stets as I swatted my way from room to room, armed with the supple Sole, Beds and their nettings are of first im- portance when moving inte a new house. Everything is done with a thought to keeping cool; and hard beds are, no doubt, cooler. ‘There are planks where springs should be, under thin kapok mattresses. Tf the netting is not up at nightfall, masquitoes sting un- mercifully, and one is subject to the invasion of other insects and even snakes. In the new- est homes, however, a metal screen enclosure around the beds makes a cool, sitre protection, During the day a hurting punk keeps the dangerous malaria carrier at a distasice, The netting and a clean water supply are perhaps of the greatest importance in main- taining « happy, healthy Indies homme, Rain water collected {rom tin or shingle roofs Into cement containers or oil drums serves for drinking, cooking, ane generally for buthing. This water must be boiled for 20. minutes, filtered through porous stone, and boiled again befare it is safe to drink. ‘The few later types of city homes are built ‘on the ground, ‘The greater number of older houses may lack in beauty, but, built high off the ground on stilts, they are immensely more practical protection against reptiles and bugs, and the breese sree: beneath keeps them eboler and far less damp. Ta the long, building, separated from the main house by a roofed walk, there are kitch- en, storercoms, servants’ quarters, and, at the farthest end, the bathroom. Because of the few dry ‘spells, river water i piped te kitchen and bath. ‘There is never hot running water. I had no real bath in Borneo, as 2 bathtub is a lusury rarely found in even the best hotels in’ Java: In the cool bathroom, sediment sinks to the bettom of water in a large reservoir, With the aid of a coffee can to pour water over me as I stood on the cement floor, I found the nie method of bathing refreshing and ptac- tical, “Whiskers” Grow on Shoes, and Mildew Colleets on Books ‘Temperature varied little day and night, Terrific humidity made whiskers graw on shoes and powdery mildew. callect on books: mattresses had to be aired every. day in the sin. All year long one was in a constant stateKeeping House in erspiration, for the limate to age only 1 the rainy to the rainier lew, the laundry Each mornit ing and dress. ¥ give. my ured a a wash of its worth with the h civilize an them in the soapy avernent per- the Inur to turn expert job of Among other thi 1 learned that if vints are obviously dis inisted, or feel condescension shawn then they are likely to quit at a mom sand much native help be ratand these friendly und Ath came to and housebos a cir brown ser iendship, Di Lasini and admired seh white course of & n with nd beloved mem tmah w thee Worries about the Aussies cipled, honest, since Tarvkan fF and creed ¢ in judging whether a per noble, One should ny standai town Moh customs, Gentle, judge to under: as most Ind trolled by Mohammed: undarels, but these with many ever others, were wn code were prov nd cleanly séwives, had ton high: Like many other t306 The National Geographic Magazine if the Law Allow hangs a equa His aie besKeeping House in Borneo their leticts to them and sign their papers, for they could nat even write theit names. ‘Tasmi Adopted Ten Children ‘Tasmi had no children of her own, She adopted ten babies, sent them all through school, and, with my. husband's help, found ihe bays good jobs. ‘The girls were trained. to ¢ excellent housewives, and Tasmi cried over ie hoe as, at the age of fifteen, she found them good husbands and gave them big wed- dings. Love of children is in the hearts of all na- irk Adoption is popular even in large fam- Fes, ‘Tasmi wept happy tears and danced with joy when my daughter was born, Now she would have a little white girl to love and spoil, In spite of all her household duties and of having her own children to care for, Tasmi always appeared to help with my baby. As if she were playing with a doll, she would change her clothes many times a day and, if we were away, she would sleep at night aut- side her door until we teturned. No ove of Tasmi’s childret was spoiled: At the age of ten the girls could darn as well as T, cook as delicious meals as those Tasmi prepared, and do all the housework in their mother's home with real efficiency. We shared our happinesses and our hard- ships as Atmah and Tasmi followed us to aur sticeessive hothes. Now I tie awake at night sometimes, hoping I can find these good iends again. Even when the bombs fell on Jaya, they, like so many af theit kind, refused to leave their white friends, and the Hollanders did not leave them. Government personnel stayed at their posts to help where they could. Tt was I, an American, who finally had to leave. In the ninth month of the Moslem year comes Poewasa (Ramaitan), time of fasting ended hy a feast. Poewasa, which is called “New Vear's” hy foteigners, is a time for much patience and understanding, for in it there is a real sacrifice for all Mohammedans, and A great majority wf the people of the Indies are good Mohammedans. Ne food or drink may pass the mouth between sunrise and sunset, It is hard for-anyone to have much sleep during Poewasa. After two o'clock in the morning tin pans, beaten in constant din, keep everyone awake as the Muslems prepare and ent their heavy: meal. At sunset kneeling Mohammedans offer prayer. ‘Then a glass uf tea may be drunk before a large evening meal, 307 Aiter 4 full lunar month, Poewasw ends at evening in a great popping of firecrackers, lighted torches, and processions. The night is passed in festivities and dancing to the music of gonged gamiclans (urchestras in which percussion instruments predominate). Shadow plays fecount long stories of gods and goddesses. And of course. there is gam- bling, which is dear to the hearts of all Malny’s Tn some villages along the rivers the only Tights are the many litle sheltered candles placed at the gates of each native house, making the black night look as ff all the shoot- ing stars had come down for an evening in the jungle. Vacation Shopping in Java T didn't realize how many things T could: do without until I lived in Borneo, ‘There you don't just go out and bay a dress if you think you heed it. Instead, yau wait for your yearly vacition in Java to purchase a sorely needed supply,* We did without fredh milk or butter for all the years on the iskind and, until yeast was imported, we used dried hops to make all our own tread. Our stove was always s long block of ce- ment with a trough down the middle under an iron grating, Fire in the trough created only aslight heat in the cavity, the section beneath which served as.an even, A kerosene can with one side ‘cut into a flap made a better oven— when @ native used it. ‘Tasmi put sucha can over the fire, dough inside, live coals on top, to cook delicious bread and cakes. Once we bought Tasmi a two-burner kero- sene range with detachable o thinking it would bea grand present, Within a week she got out her own charcoal burner and! hunted up a good kerosene can. None of that {ancy stuff for her! T used to. dream of standing rib roasts and beefsteaks with a Crisp elge of fat and a bone T could see, Beef on Borneo hare no similarity to that from a Texas steer. On the hoof it resembled a scrawny, inbred runt, Lean meat was cut away {rom everything else: so fat and bone had to be bought separately. But once when ‘our weekly order di not arrive for three months we found it was good enough to be really missed. Iwas hard to make a native chicken pal tle every day. Gont had to be bought alive, prayed over by a Mohammedan hadji, after acter Gkogaariie Macure Java Assignment,” by Dee Bredim, Jonuay and ‘Through: Java in Purmit of Color, Robert Moore, September, 1224,The National Gi Malay Gamblers ax Miri m Miri's oil-f! Yea The table's “i wse the Fantan Table; a Chinese Woman Bai made eating i Obtainable al: little green pa or wild pi all the time: sa for ewes nil in J emember the (rive tables) served by twenty boys the Hotel cles Indes in te water bufiak lived in the Inidies this we finner shoe ty §P casion. Early on Friday adel ey the The every kind of v wl shrimps, and-crabs, She cooked w In the In unless it can be peeled, with bre ned ti 5 mits. “There were t und cucuinbe called stink beans, which in Jettuce unless it almonds grew in pods. Many a bea urHovse in Borneo 309 and a modest meal cons them the long rope different. combinaris fowl was t i se Il hotter with the red jam, yards from my front ie Reptile Visitors remained in the ble for two day ese realized he could n him ‘gratefully to if T could have ter. 1 have five other skins now es, all cau at out hese coiled and uncoiled on the vw(ul thing road. Yes, T had a chicken and would giveKeeping House in Borneo cuttiiin rad ih my bedroom one night (oF two ‘hours while my servants were ont and my hus- hand was away, Fortunately, the reptile was as worried as 1, Neitherof us dared take our uses aff the other till the houseboy came home and quickly made an end of him, ‘Atmah was somewhat digmusted with me for acting as T did. Didn't Tknow the snake had come only to warn te that we would be moving soon? Indeed, he wax right, for we moved within st week. Tt almost seemed that there was something to this native supersti- tion, Five times we moved within two weeks of finding a snake in the house. Tmust add that usually | was grateful for the change after living in such close proxim- ity 10 the reptiles Wher f put my hand down on the stair jing right on top of a deadly éicersany “fron snake”), it jumped farther than T could, and fortunately in the opposite direction, ‘These very small reptiles Took like pieces of and are hardest of all snakes to see. four-inch centipedes were at home in the dampness tinder potted plants, making gardlen- ing nov always pleasant. Woolly spiders and black scorpions sometimes found their way indoors. But when 1 found five young cobras in three days stnning themselves an the dooe- sill ane realized that the parents niust be near hy, T nearly moved ont. ‘They say that one can sutvive the ordinary bite of any poisonous creature in Borneo if rare is taken in time, But the eobra’s venom. is so deadly that help does not always reach the victim before the venom has taken effect. Reptiles and wild animals are not always dangerous in Borneo, nor are they often seen. ‘Usually they sce a human first and ore the first to run away. Langer comes only when the creatures are caught unawares and realize ‘they must fight or be killed, ere ate no tigers on Bornes, Elephants, a source of much destruction but Httle danger on Sumuttra, ate found only in the north. ‘A few wild oxen may become vicinus, but only if molester: and occasionally a “man of the jungle,” the orangutan, will resent a disturbance near bis home, Kidnapped by a “Man of the Jungle” In the forest near ane of our homes a real jungle story took place, One of our cnolies was stolen away by a huge female orangutan. ‘Tho man was found three days later unhurt. but the fright of his experience had perma~ nently unhinged his mind, Occasionally thieving monkeys robbed our kitchen, one side of which was usually built with a large window of wine netting for ven~ aN tilation, ‘Tables; cupboards, ahd even the baby’s erib were set in kerosene cans of moth halls ac protection ftom ants. There were no double walls for rats to live in. Inch-long termites invaded our house at times in such numbers that a room would be clouded with their swarming. ‘Thonsands of ‘them crawled into crevices in the walls, leav= ‘ing behind a layer of glistening wings Tike 3 fall of miniature autumn leaves, Contes working on oil wells catch Large numbers of termites, ‘They cook them on the ‘bot pipes of the engine and make a feast of them, Always there were a few’ insects which fol Towed the lights, But in the wet season many nights were made uncomfortable wherever Tight burned, Sereens in windows added just that last touch of heat which made a room unbearable, But when thousands of bugs were flying, screens affyrded the only protec- tio ‘Then the evening rises of the jungle en- tered our home in the metallic buze-saw din made by cicadas and giant katydids, Usually green or brown, the cicada wits sometimes striped in gay ct ‘They can grow to three inches long, and they fling their hollow bodies on silver wings to crash against anything in their path. Their bamping and buzeing, my dodgin; early to bed in the rai ting and darkness were the only” protection from the invasion of our house. ‘There in darkness 1 would Hie awake listen- ing to the hum of mosquitoes, counting the loud fafé-kay of the big lizard in the trees, for when bis call is repeated seven times it brings good luck. I would hear the fluttering: of hens when a great prehistoric-looking lizard atiacked the hen house and would wish for drier weather and the cessation of 39 many night activities, “Blying Things” of the Night There are other dying things which come with the night, bringing fairyland on their wings, T don't know the names of the many moths, Tonly know that [ could sit for hours near a white wall with a low light shining on it, watching silver and gold lace on tiny white- satin wings, lime and brick-red shades an five- inch wings with trailing spiraled ends. ‘These duinty things are lovelier than jewels themselves, Their glistening and iridescence, their soft mat qualities hold more beautiful combinations of color and intricacy of pattern than a designer of fine silks or jewelry could dream, ‘The goldbug came to my house, too, He316 Wis a small beetle which, whe Ihe sparkled on the floor, looked wt first like # gold earring lying there. He hud what resembled a little Greek letter in dull gold on his back. For all ‘the years since he was chloroformed and wrapped. in cotton he has continued to sparkle when taken out. T felt that T must have a collection of these lovely gems, to me the most beautiful things in Borneo, But it was the only collection I made. My husband was always bringing home a weh-snul, friendly gray gibbon, or a fawn, lost from its mother. Once a diminutive muse deer, shiest of them all, wanderesd into ‘imy dining room. 1 fed them all ane set them free. Many wild things, abandoned by their kind because of some sulmormal condition, were nursed to health by kindly Europeans. Qnce set free, they became village pets, ranging where they wished but never far fram humans. ‘They seemed to know that they could never return to their kind and that survival de- pended on the friendliness of people. Kees, a red-haired baby orangutan, had special permission to live in the village, for these apes are protected by the Government and are rarely allowed in captivity. He- had the friendliness and mischief of a two-year- eld boy, Hans was a deer who bullied the dogs with his antlers. Pete, a solemn, stiff legged marabou, visited tea tables in the gardens, Ever-present sparrows twittered im the leaves and hornbills squawked in the dis tance, Suddenly, on walks through the jungle, we would come upon a cleared space where the ground was trampled to a hard floor. ‘This was the dancing place of the argus pheasant. ‘Greek mythology tells us that Hera set the hundred eyes ef Argus. the monster guard of Io, in his handsame phimage. In the se- questered leafy theater, vivid feathers spread, the great bind performs a strange ritual 10 fascinate his mate. Avama of the Durian Season Just “before the durian season began, the juigles held a particular smell, forecasting the time of ripening for the strange tree fruit, Soon an intangible odor permeated villages and jungle nlike, and the market was full of durians for sale, The large, hard, prickly-skinned durian #8 very popular with the Indonesians. Euro- peans who cannot leam to eat it are sorely tried during the short stason of the ripe fruin, I started eating durians in self-protection, as one eats onidns when everyone else does. The National Geographic Magazine At first this was no real triumph, for after T had managed te get close enough to one— fingers pinching niose—the soft, creamy sec- tions of the fruit seemed quite unpleasant to my taste, Perseverance brings great satisfaction, how- ever. To eat a durian is to learn to like it, even thongh the nearest thing to it in cone sistency and flavor would be a misture of melt- ing maple mousse and garlic. Indies fruit is of many sizes. colors, and shapes peculiar to the foreign eye, The sawe resembles a common potato, but has = Ius- cious malty flavor, Pale applelike jamloes, the fleshy stalks of the cashew fruit, are known only in America for the curved nuts which grow on the ends, ‘There were so many dif- ferent, tangy flavors that our buflet could always hold a colorful basketiul. Orchids of Many Colors Surpassing the fruits in exotic color and diversity—indeed, vying in beauty with the moths—are the orchids, The path to my house was lined with potted ground orchids. ‘The wire netting of our chicken coop hung with some 8 varicties. Resides the big lav= ender ones there were sprays of inch-high white pigeons, lifelike scorpions, tiny yellow-und- brown bees, and many others, in shape and color resembling frisects and butteriies, Many orchids have no scent, My favorite; however, had the heavy fragrance af tuberuses. In shape and size like the common lavender blossom, in color vivid chartreuse green and velvety black, these exotic flowers. held almost a sinister fascination in their startling shades and heavy perfume, For a last glimpse of Borneo Tet me take you up the wide, winding Mahakam River ta a land and a people little changed ower the 5, Leaving Balikpapsn at midnight, we had breakfast at the Sangasangadalem oil field. From there on, our 65-foot boat made about twelve miles an hour for three days. Sama- Finda was the last European settlement, Past Tenggarrmg, home of the Sultan, fia- tive villages were scarce. We were alune in, a green world of pure primitive living, om a. highway of shining, brown Water where there were no sttdight stretches or Jongedistance views, Except for an occasional crashing fall of a heavy dead branch, the jungle was almost silent. Numberless shades of green composed the jungle. while the type of follage gave variety and quality to colors. There were the deep, dull shades of the wild-rubber leaves: the gray-green neeillelike tassels of the tjimara318 The National Geographic Magazine brown Jeaves add an autumn touch, Young growth brings vivid- wh © occasional i red, deli er, and small cascades of white pigeon or citement. ‘There was much wi could not see, im y blossams blending their small Javelin the dense ve; Each plant and tree ned vying with the hers to reach light le: all sp- peared bound together with [lamas and. para- sitie plant The y light Boa minutes only, but it is the grandest time of the day. A fresh, cool brea darkening clouds turn for it mo Ment into. Wondrous hues. haze toa pink glow, Fora short w here in the le jungle T could almost living Tt was A Desperate Passenger to Borneo Goes Ashore in Shackles the foliage acquired new and still more tints ened we athih, Guta Teheran Varied shades, Yor th worth, tatio pling buffalo meat, the author shunting: rays of the sin hed spots wh (beefwood); the low plumes ef the t another time. One could b that the tree; and the Waringin, « trees praunch The athery fronds of the giant fern, lower trees were g, and other spreading shade mentary g space for their thick perhaps. so grow tall e coconut:palm, ur voites were stilled i anks for this ‘1 unk of t aweiat the beauty engine, chug sed for the rest ku to push its he branches to t « radja, king of how so long, was finally vy trunk and sparsely covered the splash of the ‘anc sky Inst sentence of its chittte nd T put a perind to the . ‘To mur ears came Only at the highest point, which each tree no civilized sounds scems struggling to reach, dees the blue sky As the night stretched black curtains across begin to. show the sky and huge solitary Lats appeared, a cre- Dead tree place to beige. Hu till upright because lL, nitke streaks re ismo scendo of sound filled the jungle, Millions uf f tan or startling insects began their buazing lowing or red- and anot al howled, Later the crea monkeys call es Wit crReepi trate the jungle’s voices would. be modulated. On our beat, an chored in the middle the river, we could rets along the ith. twin: lights, and only a, whisper of ound told: us ingle was through the ni The and be re on the third dav. As we neared Tring, where we Knew we wottld find human beings a sandbank less than six feet under the water sped otir boat. For just such an emergency we had taken along the see the banks ‘Budte a 35-foot motorboat drawing 343 ect of water, Our crew and servants re mained reluctantly on the Rienzi, in fear of what might become of em at the hands of beac-hunting Dyaks Far away from any settler Dyak kamy was the valiant sionarie ir pastor others met sek, wearinl, robes and le smiles, for we were the first white peuple they had seen in nearly a yer, Soon we muct four nuns, who showed us through the and girls Tarakan's equat Now. however the walkie tission school far boy Life Lonely at Tring Here Were aboiit rie hundred pupils Tex ing simple arithmetic, trades, and. house ping. In the nearly forty years of the mission's existence, its main ‘contribution to the nativ what it could teach pf a comm and what very lit pupil to their widely scattered tribes: Intelligent, hospitable, excelling many ather peaples in and honesty few Dyaks have as y modern ¥ and Christianity House in f Aussies, Japan's ial sun did not stop these feel the nperator: bi Bornes taten Oil Mukes a Beautiful Bonfire t was a lonely life at Tri pwn old ihe sionaries nuns had been as far away as Samarinela only three in 30 years. A radia was a novelty which we promised present t next time a bet could bring 1 Balikpapan. W quenchable gaiety and x Hollanders, which they cambin jtable will ‘and faith. The ladies served us a deliciwus funeh, we perspired freely under the influence al ainall glass of sweet wine reserved for such an occasion, The dessert arrived in the form rice puddin a sauce of long-suved -apricats, We laughed with red aut to taste like the moth it fra 0 dried prunes a them when it320 The National Geographic Magazine Is off Borneo ago, jelutong, and edible hh dey ‘goods, lamp ail, anal , their steamers torpedoed, VE Bornoo in 1048, Al rican ‘patrol buats, veuturi ank. them, balls the fruit had been saved in, But they had given the very best om their small store of imported foods, and we were grateful for the good will of these kind peoples When we left, the pastor and a Dyak guide went with us. Daring the day we poled constantly to find n channel deep enough for our little bout, hut there were times when a groan and a lift made us feel a leak was inevitable, Many old tree stumps under the water endangered our small craft In this dry season, Here where the river was shallow, we sheuld have seen literally hundreds of wild pigs crossing the But the jungles kept the secret of where all creatures were. Seldom did we see more than swaying branches or bending grass to tell us that animals watched us pass Finally a reef of rocks under the water made it impossible for us to go farther. Th had bet ne rain for several weeks, One good downpour in the watershed farther up would have givert the river depth enough, bur ao rain came. ‘There was no Kampong where we could hire native dugouts,. as we had hoped to doa day farther on. Then we could have paddled a day more to rapids, new scenery, and tribes that had seen only an occasional white government official in all their lives, Our disappoint- ment at having to turn back was keen. Witch Doctors and Sarvery ain, after a hurried dinner, we darkness to a kampong ten minutes away, where witch doctors had been hited to expel evil spirits from the sick, These men came from distant villages toperform their witcheraft for several days. Even here, so close to & mission, saree constantly. prac ticed, and the ical care the mission allorded was taken advantage of only after the spells had been unsuccessful and the patient was at death's door, The whole kampong was one huge house about 1,000 feet long Built on piles several feet above the ground, the house had hardly a nail to hold it together. There a wide veranda along the front length, from which led into separate rooms, Each was the home of an entire family, from, grandparents to swarms of babiNational Geographic Maguzine arget for American Airmen Wax ‘This Seria Oil Field Japanese took lt, the narrme line was by: a British petroleum ue, 1085, tho Vanks strafed the Tine, and a few. dass later Australian troop eaptuted i il, Hike Tarskan's, cam be burned by shipe without retinine and little children, In spite of the congestion, little princess from a faraway tribe shyly rooms were neat. Hand-woven mats covered danced and sang an improvised song af greet- the erything from dried meat and ing to the white guests. herbs to clothing hung fronh the rn(ters In the darkness we starched each room until we found the one where the sorcerer was at work, the long hours between dark and d ¢ dancing witch doctor and his assistants fre quently near the en Dente he expelled with = fire lit in his he It was against the wal n the floar were Dyak: farnil ly to from 1 nal to se standing pers of the x gon music, fren d bodies of all the ing were lit only by flickering firelight and two candh Next mornir a celebration in our honor, In the sun were assembled all the Dyaks; crowding the wide veranda and steps. Under the trees, girls froin the Cathe school sang Dyak words to the tune of “Amer- ica.” Several Dutch folk songs were sung in the Malay and Tak lang Dance of the Wild Pig The men of the v J to foot in cost aves. Grotestue asks hid their fi age danced covered from banar ire woul slowly danced, nitating wild A hunter, calling im- prompiu jokes to amuse the audience, blew imaginary paison arrows from his lon pipe or stuck the “pigs! with the point on the end of the pipe Clinging from palm trees by his bare toes, dancing and shouting, he ma the audience with delight. Dressed in typical hunt er's costume, be wore a Inincloth, bamuna around his neck, and stripes of white pa on legs, chest, and arms, His face was paibted, and his hait was decorated with feath- ers and pigs’ feet, Hunters usually wear feather headdresses age when behind them king game. Flap: 1 to the waist, t atiac F oy we oa large Bat reed mat, which is used to ait om, eat fro or drying fish or cle their ganie (Keeping House in Borneo 325 Rattan, the Tropics’ Jungle-harn Rope, Is Stacked Like Lumber work. ties hundles, binds the 3200 Feet Ino. The celebs pver; we gave, combs shes, 1 and bright bandanas ta dancers. Several kerosene tins. full tobacco, which we had als brought for pres- ents, together with all the heer bottles we had saved, made ptable gifts for the whole Her than the true Malays and nidso ‘The majority of the wom i nf the men have ears stretched! {ram six to ten inches long. Into a hole pierced serted a plug of wood. 8 sire ach nic neil and ive in diameter, is inserted. Weigh- ear down further, more tings are grail. added, until a dozen or more jangle heir owner's breast (page 311), As the girls reach the age of ten, itis curs- tomary to tattoo feet and hands. The job is finished when they are about 15. years old, The tatt fluid is made from the juice of various trees and results in an unattractive dark-bluish color. Among the Dy ck te- sembled lace mittens from the end joints of the fingers to about three ii above the wrist, In other sections the “mittens” extend In et al 1 it substitutes (or nz. chicken exible Nethetlands Barnes, these section: almost to the elhow. Only the hands are tattooed, andthe duced on the feet. The Dyak ‘The women w long aprons. than éross to tie aro ame pattern Style in Sarongs ore like top. corners Being very back, leaving the thighs of reed, covered narrow, the sarong open: little of nothing as a cove down. A two-inch-wide with red material, is worn om the head, The Dyak hobby of beadwork shows here to advantage. From the back of the head the ir hangs over a stiff frame covered with i rence to the near-by the women wore cotton jac ve the waist there ats, but is no coverin ndsome gentleman, introduce A proud and h chief of the village the and mother, who wore gala ¢ m that of other women, Shy ¢ that the richly woven, almost br: curious ‘bea from ger als and their hansed down he Ty jm wh was their home-the chiefi r Tio Gook Meals and Repel Mos Frem Ban canal. U couple thinks 1 Among were power! us mire heirlooms, the in use as containers of foo several pieces of exquisite Chinese which would have b py primitive people sand the es, returning allt way to S ngadalem in the vad been ne rain to her tery, {or there st bank. free ating on the terribly and. the vibration of wv made us very tired. Warm beer was our only drink, for our litte lamp didi heat Fiver water sil ke it safe Nevertheless, we deter gain in November or Decer epth to the civ We marked a spot on. ou we could ily in a little Gru to start our trip where to turn back this time, the Phe boat w t give more War Gomes te Quiet Borneo we But reached we had known began ip away be changed into a whirling borror itues, Firewood Where they marketed heir pr © over bi it of traveling y the Paddlers pd Tran Stove Avcomp tion and des rope, At st, {Wo i its terrifying foree, it even came into owe quiet Borneo. Perhaps we will someday ga back there perhaps even take anather trip up that lonely river, [sincerely hope so, although | that it maj difficult. to. rec of the island which had kn pean ways bef 1 know a © the wir. tis close: in y now and T ut Twill necognize it when T go back. It is in the heart of Borneo, which has had no chance to fall a i and rain TL Wear: rehids on her dress, dd wings’ of rare beauty in her hair. singing of birds. ir and te we among them. warmed by tropical sin at purposeful st Nature, but not the brittle ple terial Iueuries or the jealousy can bring somOur New Military Wards, the Marshalls By W. Roperr Moore Editorial Safi Correspondent in: the Pacific With Hlucteations from Photographs by the Author FTER nearly 30 years of jealous. Japa- nese control, the Marshall Istands have been opened under entirely new man- weement! Tac Sam, pom hes ben charge. The began on D Day, January 31, 1944, when our forces unleashed a superbly coordinated amphibious attack against Kwaja- Jein Atoll, center of the Marshall Eslands area. While the 7th Infantry ES cheat es Japanese opposition on Kwajalein and its tanking islets at the southern end of the stall, the 4th Marine Division was dealing a similar blow against the twin islands of Roi and Namur. to the north, sail By D Day plus six, o resistance ‘on Rotate Wood bed Oriel: er ant ‘Namur had fallen even sooner, On February 8, authority passed from the commander, am- phibious troops, to the communder, garrison forces, Kwajalein Atoll was ours. So, too, was Majuro, about 230 miles to the southeast, where other D Day forces landed unopposed (map, page 329). The assault of far-westerly Eniwetok Atoll followed on February 17, by the combines 22d Marine and 106th Army combat teams. From these centers otir control his since been extended throughout the Marshalls, ex- cept for four by-passed atolls—Jaluit, Mili, Maloelip, and Wotje, Japs Await Help That Cannot Come On those, as T write, thousands of Japanese still sweat and Jook for help that cannot come. ‘They refuse to surrender, though imported food grows scarce and our bombers give them little rest: ‘Many stories are told of the way pilots have dumped tin cans and garbage onto these Japa- nese-held islands just to show their contempt! T know the temptation. Flying up from the Gilbert Islands,* our plane passed so close to bomb-pitted Mili that T felt dissppointed that T could throw nothing myself, Bombers pay these Japs frequent calls. So routine are strikes made against the isolated garrisons that pilots have dubbed the runs the “milk route.” “We make sure that our bombs drop on land,” said crews with whom I talked. “If any fall in the water, they anly kill fish, which the Japs can collect.” Meanwhile work goes on in the rest of ee Marshalls, Scattered enemy. Garioes wells have fen oat oe aL moved, An orderly United States Navy mili- tary government administration is in progress for these new military wards, first of prewar Jap-ruled Micronesi to fall to our forces. “As I flew over these atolls or threaded! among them on surface craft, I never needed to ask which islands saw fighting, On untouched islands there is a massed prro- fusion of coconut palms arid pandanus (screw pines). Frequently big breadfruit and other trees add to the greenery, Areas Razed by Bombs and Shellfire Wherever we uprooted the Japanese and their fortifications whole areas were razed anc ripped to pieces by bombs and shellfire. Take: Kwajalein Island. As you make its landjall, only a ragged fringe af a few score beaten coconut trees appears above its flat coral sands. Hour aiter hour, following the opening of our assault, planes and battlewagons hurled an erupting fury ef bombardment upon this tiny Innd spot and its fnking islets. Our forces first swarmed ashore on. the ad- jacent islands and there set up. artillery to pour more tons of hot steel onto the crouching Japanese. Then our amtraics lumbered ashore ower the coral reef behind this deadly barrage. When a sea wall stood in the way at the western end of the island, whence the attack was being launched, United States battleships took turns moving in to blast openings through the barrier with their guns at a range of 2,000 yards, Steadily, systematically, the tornado. of bursting steel moved across the island ahead of advancing tanks and infantry. Against it no Jap cauld survive, “Someone has estimated that an average of 100 pounds of steel from bombs and shells plawed into every square foot of the island,” commented one of the officers who saw the entite action. “The nightmare of noise was almost inconceivable." #Sce, in the Nartowat Gounarniic Mavoartn, “Gilbert Islands in the Wake of Battle," by Wy Robert Moore, February, 1943; and “War Finds Its Way to Glide ‘dani by Sie Adthiw ‘Grimble, January, 143, as326 The N ational Geographic Mea Tie! Bur They Measure with Straws to Make Sure Mitching! hnrseshnes and hasehall are two popular sports among American lads stutinned an Kevralulein Atu One kas a fan ut. result of his in it over the Exuainr Virtually Kwajalein’s whole area was ripped. theaters, refrigeration laundries; and up and turned over and over again. Yawning foul to {ced everyone. craters pitted this whole tortured strip of land The way these’ facilities are set up om the American Town on Goral Isle iter Ste i icture je here and at Rod Only a few months landings it was hard to utter de tion that ¢: and Eniwetok, phibiows the Bulldozers hact scoaped away. most of the tangled mpsses of wreckage were hauled to the dumps. The areas were cleaned up and mace hnbitable and healthy. On these sun-blistered coral sands: Amerie ean. tow into being, They are not any 1 bu masculine, mechanical’ towns geared to war. Here, however, are all the complements of 2 city—homes, offices, shops; churches, clubs thowe mporary. lights, w sewage-disposal 5 are tents, Quonset huts, and n structures, Hete, too, art er (distilled from the se), telephanes, radios, war-shattered islands th niles from the United States is one of the marvels of American war planing Today. th halls seem far behind the hatale lin h thousands of J parked on islands round about and neutralized Carolines just to the west.* acetiously American lads refer'to the rag= ged life here as “working an the rock pile”! And they gail her about get ting “rock happy American Expedi- tionary station which broudcasts music and ntettainment from ““Kwaj Lodge has a Rock Happy Roger.” miming about one of the p pitching horseshoes in sof eve T found a gro * See maps of “Pacific Ocean and i Hteoxal,” supplement to the Narzowar Masazive for September, 1 p h 73 Feland. frets." supplenient328 has come to the fore, Many of the men have built wind-operated washing machines. Scores of windmills whit in the breezes at every past ‘They have been fashioned from a fantastic array of odd bits of iran, boards, and pieces of tin scrounged from the junk heaps. Few are decorative. but they: effectively sone the clothes in euds-filled buckets or oil drums, (One that T suw which belonged fo an air erew bore the hold label “Prop wash!” ‘Lacking a.swindmill, Thad to wash my swent- soaked khakis in my tin hat (page 349). Geography of the Marshalls Just what are the Marshalls, of which we knew so little until our troops pried open the dower? ‘Briefly, the archipelign consists of 34 coral atolls and single islands arranged roughly in two parallel rows, lying approximately 130 miles spurt. Some geographers, however, list only $2 by ignoring isolated Taongi Atoll (also called Pokaakku} far to the notth and. tiny Knox (Narik), a satellite atoll of Mili. Tf you include them with the easternmost group, the Radak (Sunrise) Chain has a total of 14 atolls and two single istunds, The western Ralik (Sunset) Chain comprises 15 atolls and three single islands, ‘Two of lis members, Eniwetok and Uielang Atolls, more aloof, lie westward af the main group, ‘These coral-spawned islands extend in a general northwest-to-southeast direction, scnt~ tered over an ocean area of some 375,000 square miles, or a spice about ome atid ane- half times the size of Texas, Ii all their land area could be gathered together, however, it would form a patch covering only about one- twentieth the surface of Rhode Island! As T flew crissctoss paths over these atolls, they appeared Liclow like looped necklaces dropped at random on a vast sheet of shim- meting blne satin, Greeti coconut and. pan ddunus-covered islands and hate sandspits are the beads. ‘They are linked by chains of reefs and threads of white breaking surf. Both the island beads and their chains vary in size und shape. The largest atoll of the Marshalls is Kwajalein, In all, some 90 islets are strung around its lagoon, which sprawls over an area of 900 square miles. From Kwaj- alein Island, at oe end, to the farthermost tip of this: boomerang-shaped atoll is 76 miles. Some of the islands that encircle the lagoons: are long, somé short. All are slender, The broadest island anywhere inthe Marshalls is Jess than a mile across, though some may range. up to 15 miles in tength, On islands where the Japanese or we cstiblished aithases there is room for little besides the airstrips, The National Geographic Magarine ‘On some of the atolls, but not all, openings ip the reefs afford passages Inta wide, deep Ingoons, At times, since we came, we have concentrated more naval might in some: of these lagoons than that of the whole Japanese Navy put together! Rendezvous for Snewk Attack When they held these nirbases and sea anchorages, the Japanese had a double ram- part facing Hawaii across some 2,000 miles of ‘open blue Pacific, Tt is likely that they as sembled the force here which made the sueak attack against Pearl Harbor on December 7, 194 With these island outposts, and the Gilberts which they snatched from the British, the Japanese thought they had an impregnable Mring of outer sea defenses to euard the dis- tant heart of their empire. But their reckoning was wrong, The bis- tions of Tarawa and Makin in the Gilbert Islands fell under dramatic frontal attack. ‘Then came the Marshalls, ‘These strong= holds crumbled or were reduced to Impotency when our ships, planes, and landing parties awept itround to smash the amer tather than the outer wall of island barriers. Japan's outer perimeter was criicked, And that rent widens and deepens day by day. ecatise the Marshalls lie only a few degrees north of the Equator, weather here is reduced to the mere mention of heat, humidity, and rain. “When ér your wint Marshallese. “It's winter when it rains and summer when the sun shines,” he replied. Rains afford about the only: interruption in daytime heat, ‘The tropical sunshine, how. ever, is tempered somewhat by casterly and northeasterly breezes which fan the islands most of the year. As regularly us the men attend outdoor movies at night, they carry their ponchos or raincoats. Tropical downpours come often. Tn. ten minutes: ['ve seen a sky studded with sturs turn suddenly black and dump a deluge, ‘Thick seething clouels unloase some 160 inches of water annually aver the southern islands. Rainfall is less heavy in the northern atolls, which lie in the trade-winds belt. Vegetation grows sparser from island to island northward. Foconuts wet smaller, us do the pipayas. Breadfrait begins to disappear, Occasionally even drought conditions prev: 1 asked a young See, in the Navowa, Gevanarine Macursce, “Japan and the Pacidic.” by Toseph C. Grew, April Toe4; and “Hidden Key to te Pacific.” by Willaed, Brice, Jue, 1942,Eniwetok e-Bnget ‘Atal, SSPery Br Sereecton R tteaesss ML A es I § Revere oo ar ° ue > fhlacra)—aPingalap og losers a Rs "Bikar [Boman] wanes * oH, _xeeLe i, Sar p< Sykrind ‘=| Maloctap Atoll [aver] Nests D oS ae ain ah ect Taal “Alrol Alin 5a Se he" aaa > Farag pest um ile bona Neck Bering! fHuntec} [roe Must Have Bases; These Island Harbors Paid for by Sacrifices of American Blood’ ‘Thus spoke Flect Admiral Ernest J. Kimg recently when he made a plea that the United Suates keep its hard-won Pacific bases for tuture peotcetiot.. Get recent tur cf Army Air Force bases in the Pacitie, canos, Bonins, Ryukyus, and athers—are vital (o be Gneestiiet range bombing: TE you visit American-occupied posts here in the Marshall Islands, you see few Mars ese. Only: volunteer labor groups are located in the various 4 operational areas, Yet some 10,000 of these native people are scattered throughout the island groups hundreds hive been evacuated from the by-passed atolls still controlled by the Japanes Several atolls re unpopukited. On oc- ied atolls the villagers usually dwell ona few islands. In nocmal times they visited the others only to collect coconuts. “Then eopra production was the main source of revenu When our forces landed here the people had suffered many war privations. Their copra trade had collapsed ‘The Japanese shipped in no. supplies. I of the Ariny FL H. Amold, om his Feturn from a aid: These hy future secutity dhe can we defend aurelves trom an cnemy who the fieture peace of the world; indeed, the fate of miukinit may depend upen it.” tands—the Marshalls, Palaus, Vol- ‘Their ue by: the United States must destiay dur dtles by lone Shelves in Japanese-operated stores were bare, For a long time the people could not get soap, inedicines, clothes, or supplementary food supplies, They lived on island produce—eo- canuts, lireadfruit, pandanus (page 327), ar- rowroat, and fish, h fond was adequate, but the Marshal. lese lacked their accustomed rice, flour, and sugar. So long had cloth been unavailable tht most of their clothing was in tatters. Some had taken (o wearing mats er garments made from burlap sacking. Many outrigger canes were without sails, Perhaps their most acute need, was for soap, Lacking it for washing bath their clothes and themselves, many were infected with skin however,330 The National Geographic Magazine uflade Nets Weave a Fantastié Pattern over a Bamb Dump d fit al ale delivery Japs, American haves in the Marshalls are surraun Lithom ta (oxrr by passer Jap-held Uhe pratgi, Wake and. the Caroline alanis: of and Kussie are Within te diseases. A lutge portion of the population suffering from yaws Everywhere homes were broken up when lowing and slapping over the waves in a villagers bad been tken by the Japanese for flat-bottomed LCM (Landing Craft, Mech lak Many men and women between nized Equipment), we cruised inside the Ii- 15 and 40 year the island chain, inhabited islands in it to lo forced Labo goon alo Starting even the guns had cooled, — Wet and when their “office” wa aseat in the ing hulk ighters huni sand under a canvas shelter half, United States on the coral shelf had been beached naval began work on island problems. our bombers dropped eggs on their a se ce In this same lagoon were Japanes Military Gavernment in Action ratecre eatisht on cnuictoey wees,” Hundreds of Marsh have n rehabili- Along the way, too, we passed One Tree ted inn mes, wherever war fi ges. OL ced them — Island cartoonist’s | prs have been isle for castaways, A libor camps. towered in lonely isolation at her supp! of coral sand, dic inspections and medical © ‘Then we came to Burle, Loo! mined, village life is as- the high prow raft guided us in a zigzag path around coral heads in the lagoon ade several trips with officers and doc- to a spot where we could drop the ramp on The first of these sandy beach. ture of a Pacific ngle coconut tree ‘small pateh we Vill 1 to their homes from All now have adequate food an Because treatmentsMilitary Wards, the Marshalls $1 Jands are coconut ho eoprit can work, which the pe hemselves, und done nce ot profit this work, the natives buy the things ‘There has been little necessity for ~ Both th altered Pacific ssinnous, ges Among our le. How clothed. ix most of th supplied havewe miterial. “Two san asa closely guarded sphere for her Titions, Yet Americans haye had nce here than any athet pe 180s the American Board of F gion seriously nselves, but the Japanese in Boston spread its activit 1) Haw sys and at other areas T visited reduced the Marshallese langua Jater, a number spoke English. Always when gave the people schools, medicines, T questioned. them had gion; and broug Jans learne T got al the nswer, To. the tica became “From mission schools." friendly land, Before the war Japanese ¢ This affords an interesting historical note cials complained that, un on the Marshalls American mission influ with Japanese education, they could never hope ta turn the natives their way. centuries the istands In recent years they had tried, and then later hools were established in Jal War I, Japan has of the othe Some stud y muneiste, but from various islinds for adh Missionaries’ Made Friends for America For three an were claimed by Germany. Sin control, 1 ints were ed work atOur New Mil Wards, the Marshalls Jaluit, Others were educated in Ponape. A few selected! persons given. sul hers and instr $ still al wor since been place: Natives ill find it éns coconut shells ut random aft fiber, No other fi: s ute used. The water and -scor speed with which these canoes will -skim the fly plopulat theit crafts. After wells, we pulle ped down the at em was much the sw Var tions in C: to Torrutj. Here the saye that the Canoes in the Marshalls differ frany those acquired a more comfortable “office” in in the Gilberts im that the Marshallese craft prawling have ure au 1: others ate constru Plu here also diff valing shade ol ris in the Gilbert Isl their chnoes t irom those in the with her, ut handmad as most of them have s336 thatch ot bamboo, Gilbertese hames ane quite open beneath theit widespreading thatch roofs. The majority of Marshallese either utilize floors close to the ground or spread their mats directly upon the coral gravel, while most Gilbertese houses have platform floors raised above the ground level. After retuming to Kwajalein, I hopped to Roi and Namur at the northern end of the atoll, ‘A devastating attack similar to that at Kewajalein was unloosed against these two adjoining islands, which the Japanese had inked together with a narrow causeway (page 332). ‘The Japs had stripped Rei and on it built: an airfield to serve as a main baw and source ‘wf air power for the Marshalls, Here were ‘hangars, reinforeed-conerete control stations, and cement and asphalt runways. The whole area was drained by a network wf ‘covered concrete channels. When the ‘Marines swept across the islend many Japs took to these drains. Squirming through them, ‘they sniped at our men through slots in the covering slabs, Appropriately, the taking of Roi has been called the “Battle of the Drains.” Namur was heavily wooded, But beneath its coconut and other trees the Japs had erected ‘a big administration building, fete, and thick-walled, neinforced-concrete blockhouses with ponderous iron doors. In these they ‘housed amenunition, gasoline, anc ather sup- plies, Heavy guns guarded the seaward ‘approaches. ‘The Japanese spent years building these installations, A few remain, but they are battered, burst open, and_smoke-blackened. ‘Trees are gone as a result of the mauling from guns and bombs Gardens under Camouilage Netting Tn cleaning up Namur, our troops carefully hoarded all the black surface soil they could collect iand are now using it for growing young plants and trees, ‘They have even started an experimental arden where radishes, onions, beans, papayas, tomatoes, and other plantings flourish under camouflage netting (page 331). ‘Here, as everywhere else, the fellows have telieved monotonous moments by thinking up kay, giddy: names for their tents: Some are distinctly of “local colar,” as are two priceless puns I came upon, One was “Weep Namur.” ‘The other, s bold sign with triumphal-arch grandeur in front af the tent opening, pro claimed: “Atoll Lodge. No Liquar Atoll, No Women Atoll!” From here I few out to westerly Eniwetok. On the way we winged over Wotho, an elon- The Nationil Geogiaphié Magazine gated atoll strikingly rimmed with’ waters ranging {rom light jade green through electric blue to the ultramarine-blue depths, Driblets of green, marking coral patches, spat the lagoon. ‘Wotho is lovely, but it has not recovered mM & severe storm whieh it suffered some years azo. Fewer than 50 people live on its main island. Another storm, of hot bursting steel, churned nnd chopped away almost every vestige of life on Engebi Island, at the northern end of Eni- wetok Atoll, and on Eniwetok Island and Parry at the south. Fighting Insted only six hours on Engebi. Eniwetok took longer. Although it was shelled and bombed heavily, Japanese hiding in holes there still put up stiff resistance. They had no heavy artillery, but used) many mortars and a few tanks, Said one officer who had seen the whole engagement; “When we found so many Japs on Eniwetok, we really went to work on Parry. ‘Our ships lay in the lagoon only’ 2,000 yards offshore and poured it on.” More than 2,600 Japuniese didn't through the fighting on’ Eniwetok Atoll, Noz#le of a Fiery Hose Until our forces maved on to capture Saipan, ‘Tinian, and Guam, this atoll of Eniwewok was the northwesternmost end of the road. Perhaps it might be more aptly described as the nozzle of a hose through which surged a tremendous flow of fire power to spray Ponape, Truk, and other Japanese bases in the Caralines, Eniwetok is still busy, and will be for some © to come (page 333). ‘Though its guest house, a tin Qu Palmer House,’ a cot (sometimes!) to sleep on. Your tin hat, or one you have borrowed, is your washbasin, Before war swept away their homes, two groups of Marshallese lived on the atoll. One group, with Abraham as chief, dwelt on Engebi; the other, under the leadership of soars lived at Eniwetok, military government officer tempararity seit all the people on a single island, each group having half the area, A thatch church, Tocated between the two villages, served both gfoups. Other islands are now being surveyed with the ides of fincing more natural resources with which the people may work, as the present one has only coconut trees, Tt So happens that each village has pre: chsely the sume sized population—3? persons, ‘They work independently. Both produce al- nwst the same amount of handicrafts—baskets, mats, belts, and even shells! liveMonths after the batt brought back for # short He had not seen it since right after the fight- ing, When it was’ chaos of war rubble. ‘As he made his first jeep tour, his eyee fairly popped from his head at all the changes hesaw. When he ended the trip he exclaimed, “Tatand goad, Americans goad; all the sirie plenty fine!” T should be inclined. to bestow the label “plenty fine” upon Majuro, As T few into this atoll, 1 saw trees! When ‘our troops came ashore here, they found that all the Japanese garrison hid zone, Only four civilians remained. The Japanese had several well-constructed barracks, hath- houses, Kitchens, and a wooden hangar, and hd brought structural steel for still another hangar. ‘One can anly guess why they left. They may have considered the atoll indefensible or, having gained the Gilberts, miy have moved their forces there. T slept in one of the: buildings. they tail convenient!y: provided and wrote up my motes in another. Proposed “Biltmore-Majuro Hotel” ‘Though some wag has crected a sign ad- vertising the ptopised site of the (postwar Rilumore-Majuro Hotel, with 500 suites, baths, and several revolving bars, 1 felt that the Japanese had provided me with the ultimate in lixuty after T had become accustomed to life inn sunescorched tent Coconut trees stand In thick groves here, except where they have been removed to make way for some structure. Some of the men still speak enthusiastically ‘of the feesh hearts-of-palm salads those cut-down trees provieled. Majuro roads havé a touch of home, “Speed fimit’* and “Walk to the left- facing traffic” signs are posted alung the way ‘On one post the commanding officer has issued an’ order that anyone caught speed- ing will get a day's work in the garage for every mile an hour be travels In excess of the set Limit! ‘The whole of Majuro Atoll is attractively set, Mong its wide, deep lagoen ance existed by far the longest island in the Marshalls. It was more than 25 miles long. Many maps stil] show it at stich, A typhoon in 1918, however, whipped and lashed and frayed its marrow lower end into a series of small islets, leaving the main lund strip only 13 miles long. ‘This island is called Majura, as is the entire atoll. [ was shown the big stone slab, covered itary Wards, the Marshalls 3a5 with ideographs, which the Jupancse hid erected on a small artificial hillock im com- inemoration of the disaster. The population of Majum Island, nearly 1,000, is large for the Marshall group, The big church, mestinghouse, and several other structures are built of wood. So is the former Jnpanese trading store, which’ now, under nuitive management, bears a Uniter| States. Navy sign and sells stock goods to the villagers. Tn the church, when I first went there, dozens of women sit an the floor weaving mats, “Having several special orders for large floor mats, they could find no other place in the village big enough to do the weaving. Outside the meeting! ar “town hall,” T met Lazarus, the scribe, busily poring over a list of names, nsiide, more women were weaving. Lazarus was ‘arranging shifts of workers to complete the floor coverings. ‘Among his many duties, he had also just posted a notior on the village bulletin board informing the people which cisterns to draw water from, a5 Same were being readied for cleaning: As 1 wandered through the village, T was greeted with many “hellos" and “good morn- ings.” Some of the people were trying new English expressions they had been leatnitye it class, ‘To aid them in studying English, the military government. officers have mimeo- graphed a primer of simple expressions and sentences Seabees Build a Playaround Near the beach, beneath the coconut trees, the Seabees have built the youngsters a small playground with swit and teeters. One youngster I saw pumping a swing as hard as he could was lustily whistling "Pistol Paekin’ Mara"! A naval doctor is at present stationed on the ishine, He 33 assisted! by two pharmacist mates und hy a native practitioner who bad gained training under the Japanese at Jaluit Several Marshallese girls serve as nurses in the wards of the small thatch-roafed hospital While T was on the island a bab ‘The father, working at an American hase, had asked for time off to be there for the event. He had had! a fortaight’s holiday, but when the doctor sought him to tell him of the new daughter, the man couldn't be found, Pr haps he was wearing out a coral patch pacing undet the cocomut trees. ‘Marshall community life is closely ‘knit. One villager, a workman, died suddenly of heart attack. He had no family, but the whole village wept about his casket. And though46 The National Geographic Magazine 1 Maloelap jth its iskindsand irregularly shaped ‘Th ese imported monitor lizards hereOur New Military Wards, the Marshalls A Navy Rubber Raft Helps G,re \\ NR Re Le350 from Saipan to get rid of the mts. But the lizards took to getting rid of the villagers’ chickens! Naval officers have taken men to Aur to try to eliminate these creatures, They have shot some teasiiring up to four feet in length. Natives say that, some grow ta cight feet or more, ‘The reptiles have coniparatively: small bodies and long slender tails. Among the inhabited atolls northward in the Radak Chain (omitting of course those an which the Jups sit) is Likiep. ‘The Families De Brum and Capelle Come into Likiep and you see a number of frame houses built on the Eugopein pattern, ‘They haye clapboarded side walls, corrugatid~ iron roofs, and windows with glass panes, Paths through the village are edged with coral stones. On this ishind live the families of De Brum anid Capelle, Progenitor of the De. Brums was a Portu- guese who came here in the 1870's and bought Likiep from the controlling Radak chief. Later he took into partnership a German by the name of Capelle. They ded the atoll into three parts, each having one portion and the third to be controlled jointly, Though the Marshallese had no claim to the land, they remained in somewhat the status of share-cropping tenants for harvesting the coconuts and copra curing. Today the De Brum and Capelle farnilies through the second, third, and fourth genersi- lions are prominent here. Some of thei speak German as well as Marshallese, A few: know English, Anton de Brim is the local magistrate, and he-also operates the trade store handling naval supplies sold to the villagers. ‘Before the war these families at Likiep built their own sailing boats in whieh they carried their eopra down to Jaluit to get higher prices. A few persons went away to study, and others signed up as hands an trading ships, In their homes they use a few dishes and chairs, and they sleep on beds rather than on mats on the Hoor. Another colorful character ix an_ elderly German named Hab. He came here years ago and, although he has made trips away, has ee Likiep so well that he bas always come pack. In all, about 500: Marshallese villagers live on this pleasant atoll, Ailuk and Utirik Atolls and Mejit Island, the other freed inhabited areas ih the northern part of the Radak Chain, have a combined The National Geographic Magazine population of only a little more than Likiep. ‘The people from there normally visited the uninhabited isdands and atolls only to collect coconuts and the fruits that grow there. When sailing their outrigger canoes was unhampered by war, they also roamed the waters round about searching for big sea turtles, “Royal” Fumilies Survive ‘Traditionally, throughout the Marshalls, native society had functioned somewhat on a feudal system. To a degree it still obtains, Both the Sunrise and Sunset Chains have their “royal” families, or inherited lines. of chieftains who hold land rights over their re- spective island groups. Many of the individ- ual islands and atolls likewise have their lesser chiefs, or landed gentry, Among the people these chiefs command certain awe and esteem. "They are the social and political leaders, From copra ‘and other produce the chiefs esacted their shares and teceived gifts from the commoners. Now they get their portions ‘of the handicrafts, as is their customary right. When yar came, the parumeunt chief of the Radak Chain was on Japanese-held Wotje Atoll. He isn't there now, but some of his lands temporarily remain inaccessih Chiefs of the Ralik Chain live on Allinglap- oll, TL suw them when 1 joined the niilitary government unit ihatking the southern circuit: On the way, we cruised. past sprawling, Narow Atoll, home of somewhat more than 300 Marshallese, grouped mainly on Numu Island, Then we came to bigger, richer, and mare thickly populated Ailinglapalsp. Suiling into its extensive lagoon, we heated first to Wotja Island and went ashore through a brief midmorning rain squall, Standing in Line for the Pictures ‘The island folk burried into the village square to greet us. Soon came the business of bringing in handicraft er queuing up outside the thatch hut where the doctor began exanil- nations and treatments. As T wandered about the village homes, 1 siw many women rousting chickens over open fires and baking breadiruit in the hot coals. At noontime | learned the reason. Into the thateh-roofed pavilion which serves as the village meetinghouse came a procession of peo- ple beating baskets filled with food. Women- folk carried the chickens and breadfruit; men brought stems of bananas and freshly husked young coconuts, These they placed an tain-washed greet leaves slashed from near-by banana plants andOur New Military Wards, the Marshalls Native Chiels at Ailinglapalap Read the Proclamation of Admiral Nimitz f the Marshatls, the written in Jopanese and ¥ingt anil atolls U.S. fe This onc dcals with rules (or Ja proclamations wor i Dehavier 1 Marchallow: ession, one gay old lady and, substituting the laid them on the mat us, It was a After fe our honor seized a ste alu pr of bana nd what a feast! They had brought many word anana” in place of “aly stat times what we could possibly eat. Yet they nt ali over again, Within a few minutes touched as enough bananas were heaped at our feet custom dict went deed a regiment with us back to the ship. . As soon as we had fink ting, the a Week al Alingialie womes formed in ling and murched past ux _, We sailed soon afterward for AiTinglapal singing a gay alu chant. ‘The alu isa shell- the main island of the atoll (lates 11 and decorated headband of ti XI) E piece. ‘To the ‘Marchsliede it is wat the wer lel eto the Be inating ‘village: bere feteontt (Plate XIILy Enucbing, at the western end of the islar but Hae it took a had beating from bombers a Alus for Remembrance str res broke up small Japanese nthere. Village life is now Taking alus from their own heads, 1 y J ‘i " . entered about Airek, neat the opposite enc Jaced them on ours. Then they vanished to meal: Rent Such, tibet Ce Oppose ‘ert However, clusters of dwellings are scatt il z the coral path the « trees. und-again they came back singing a | meaning: Each group has its ¢ ame, but little except locally; so Ailingl: pan you y serves for the whole settlen aa Here I stayed for nearly a week. Day atte day 1 wandered up and de ith the tinie they had finished, our heads a young Marshallese wh - ks were heavily laden with shell and lish, learned. at Jaluit flower We looked like overdecorated ‘The chiefs are descendants of the late war- Chr riog chief Kabua, who held control over the352 Ralik Chain. It was he who, years ago, espoused the missionary cause and also made the treaty with the Germans at Jaluit that Ted to their occupation from 1885.until 1914, when the Japanese walked in and gained control. The eldest of Kabuiat's sons is Leilang. He is growing aged and infirm now. ‘To a consit- erable extent he seems t have turned over his control to his younger half brother Jeimata, who is still very active: Li here, too, is a daughter of Kabua and full sister of Leilang. Her name ig Libo- tok, and she is an interesting figure despite ‘her agie. Jeimata has two sons. Lejelong, the elder, dwells here at Ailinglapalap; the other serves as administrator in Kwajalein Atoll Still another prominent figure is Lajure. He nat only holds extensive control of lands in Aifinglapalap but also owns properties from faluit to Kwajalein. A clean-cut, dignified leader, he is the island magistrate. Of all the chiefs, I got to knaw Lejelong beat, [think T also envied him most, espe- cially when L had walked miles, for he had the one Japanese bicycle on the island that still worked! Iowe him much for his eager assist~ ance during my stay, One day be atranged a tide for me-on an outrigger canoe so that T might get some pictures. On another he supgested a dance by some of the young women of the island, Camera Speeds Up a Wedding T shall always feel fairly certain that it was partly the presence of my cameras which made Lejelong speed up the double wedding of his two sons! Angway, the wedding took place the last. morning T was there. Weslding gowns and long trailing veils, fastened to the hends with white shell-decorated bands, were both fashioned from yards of the Navy's mosquito, netting? The bouquets of primroses which the brides carried were tied with the same iniaterial (page 334), ‘And. they were altractive. 1 shall never know, however, where they got their white feather pumps. The grooms appeared for the event wearing white trousers, black coats, ties, and bhick ix- fords, [had seen them daily, clad always in openctieckod navy-green or khaki shirts, GI National Geographic Magazine ‘trousers, and field shnes, the kind of unifarm the military government officers and L wore as we sat during the church ceremony among all the chieftains families. ‘Though the islund populace crowded the church, filling the floor mats to the very doors, the ceremony had great dignity. For that the elderly Reverend. Mr. James was responsible. We left Ailinglapalap before the wedding feast was given. ‘The people had been too busy bringing in theit handicraft and attend= hee other tasks to take time to prepare the food. We also were pressed for time, ‘The mili- tary government officers had a rendezvous with another LCL at an island farther south, A Problem in Logistion At Kill they had a problem of maneuvers— for should one call it a problem in logistics, of sorts? ‘Theirs was the question af how to land, while Iying uff the reef, ‘60 pigs, 72 chickens, $2 ducks, 10 eats, 1 dog, and 9 people with all their household effects and then transport them to Ailinglapalap, where the unloading would have te be done under similar handi- caps! For years Kili has been simply a coconut plantation, Its population was purely tran- sient, “The Germans, and later the. Japanese, took families there for regular periads to har- ‘yest coconuts. War caught some families “still on Kili. Our officers are now bringing their isolation to an end and are returning them to their homes, T should like to have seen how the transfer was managed] For | can still hear the mili- tary government officer muttering, “Sixty pigs, 72 chickens...” T should also like to have visited picturesque Ebon and Namorik Atolls. But [ had seen a large representative group of these new mili- tary wards we have acquired in the Pacific, wards which we shall continue to supervise such time as their final control is de following the conclusian of the war, ‘Then, too, 1 had another rendezvous to keep on other islands farther west which, like the Marshalls, the Japanese had lost or were rap idly losing.* ‘See “South froin Saipan.” by W. Rolicrt Moore, i the Naviowat Geinsrinic MMAtiNE, April, 145 Notice of chawge of astdrers for your Nyrinxat, Grocnatenc Manattsie shontd he reseived i the afines of the Nacional Gewiraphi: Sécieay hy the fret of the monte to affect the following mmtk's tiswe. For inctance, if you devire the dddeeds changed for Your November number, The Society should be notified of ons new adderis wot later than October frit. Be sure to include your mee fostil zone wnmber.Are Happy With Strong Toes Gripping Narto Runs up a Coconut Tree« National Ge mnuts, Not €‘The National Geographic Society’s Map of Northeastern ITH this issue of their Macazixn, the 1,250,000 member-families of the National Geographic Society receive 4 map supplement of the foremost industrial region in the world—the Northeastern United Suates.* Printed in 10 colors om a sheet 41 by 2676 inches, the new map contains 10.437 place names, more than any other chart ever pro- duced by your Society, ‘The $30,000 square miles portrayed encom- pass America’s giant “manufacturing belt.” ‘This region embraces only [2 percent of the area of continental United States and 4.4 percent of Canada’s. Yet here dwell nearly half the population of the United States and almost two-thirds of the Dominjon's people. More than 644,000 of the million and a quarter menibers of the National Geographic Society live within the borders of the new map, which stretches on the north from Ontenagon, Michigan, to the coast ef Maine, and on the south from Mount Vernon, Indiana, across Kentucky, West Virginia, and Virginia, to the Atlantic, Included. are most of the Great Lakes region and the thickly populated see tions of Quebec and Ontario, Of the 31,692 persons listed in the 1942-45 edition of Wao's Who in America, issuect before wartime changed many addresses, more than 18,000 lived in the District of Columbia. and the 13 Stutes shown In their entirety. World's Greatest Industrial Output In 1944 the United States produced 199 billion dollars’ worth of goods and servic ‘This included 43.5 billion dollars’ worth of combat munitions—more than one and a half times the production of the Axis nations. Of 20 major industrial areas in the United States, as designated by the War Production Board, 23 are located inthe territory shown on the new map. Factories in those 23 areas est 73 percent of the Nation's record- reaking 1944 output. They employ 70 per- cent of thé country’s wage earners. In the Canadian area coveted, manufactur ing and population concentration is absey strik- ‘This comparatively small section con tains 73 percent of o ighbor country’s factories and 84 percent af its factory payroll, Residents of the northeastern United States pay a percent of the Nation's income tax: ‘anadians in the urea mapped pay. 85 percent of the Dealt’ ‘The map shows how nearly all the huge metropolitan centers in this section owe their a1 United States gtowth to strategie geogriphie locations. Ex cept Indianapolis: alone, all “are located on navigable water—ocean, lake, river, or canal. New York, heart of a metropolitan area of 11,000,000 people, is the biggest port in the world. From its huntreds of miles of piers nearly three million tons of shipping moved seaward in a single wartime month. Biggest single factor in the early growth of New York City was the Erie Canal, Utiliz- ing the Hudson and Mohawk Valleys, the canal made New York the shipping gateway for all the country between the Great Lakes and the Ohio, and between the Mississippi and the Hudson. Later, the New York Cen- tral Railroad followed this route, Today New Yorks is the world's chief finan- cial center. It leads the Nation in manufac- ture of chemicals and clothing. Every major ail company that does busiress in the metropo- lis hasan oil refinery there, anct their combined output makes New York one of the biggest petroleum-refining centers in the world, Many more “first’s” and “bigigest’s™ could be listed. Great Lakes Cradle Great Cities The Great Lakes, today the world’s busiest shipping artery, dominate the area covered by the northwest corer of the new map. Imagine. the changes on this continent if they were not there. North America would gain more land than the total area of the British Isles, but at what enst! ‘The Great Lakes project into the heart of the continent's rich grain region and transport most of the grain crop over th They link three-quarters of out Nation's iron pre with the vast coal fields of Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Kentucky, and Virginia. Tt casts almost four times as much to send a ton of coal by rail from Pittsburgh to Cleve- land, 115 miles, as it does ty ship by water from Cleveland to Duluth, 800 miles. “To ship atan of coal from Lake Erie to western Lake Superiot ports costs only 40 cents, less than many pay to have it carried from curb ti cellar, Without the Great Lakes waterway, the huge industrial regions of Chicago, Dettuit, * Members may obtain additiginat copies nf the new “Map of Northeastern United States” (and) of all ther tips ublished by The Society) by writing to the Natinnal Geagraphie Society, Washintton D.C. ‘rice: Unde Stats ae Ponecene 30 rich of paper; $4 un Tinea; Talles, 2%¢. Outeide of United Siltet and Poses 750 am gubert 8125 90 lg (postal negulationn enerally. prabibit mailing Finer taps outside of Western Hemisphere) ; Index. $0e A femitanis payable fn 0, Tunds. "Pomuge pre: paid,362 Cleveland, Milwaukee, Buffalo, and Rochos- ter, which produce 20 percent of the Nation's industrial produets, would probably have other locations. What would happen to Pittsburgh, Youngstown, anid other near-by inland indus- trial regions if they were cut off from Min- nesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan ores? During the seven-month season, the Soo canals between Lakes Superior and Huron carry more tonnage than the Panama and Suex Canals combined in a whole year. Nearly three-fourths of the entire United! States water- borne commerce goes over the Great Lakes. Tn 1940, Lakes ports handled one and a half times ais much cargo as our Atlantic ports and two and a half times ns much asour Gulf ports. Chicago, on the shores of Lake Michigan, is the heart of one of the world's outstanding manufacturing centers, Great Lakes port.and marketing center for a vast and rich ageicul- tural region, this giant metropolis is a terminal for 34 railroads. Continue the roll call of big northeastern cities and see how the growth of each depended lnrgely on navigable water: Hoston on the Atlantic, Philadelphia on the Delaware River, Pittsburgh where the Alle- gheny and Monongahela Rivers unite to form the Ohio, Cincinnati on the Ohi, St. Louis on the Mississippi, Detroit on the Detroit River between Lake St. Clair and Lake Erie, Cleveland and Buffalo an Lake Erie, and “Montreal on the St. Lawrence. ‘Water alsy accounted for the growth of New. England's scores of manufacturing cities* ‘Although industry reigns supreme in north~ eastern United States, the area is also rich in agricultural products, Tn the northeastern corner of the map, three lowland areas contribute much ta the farm wealth of the Nation. Aroostook County, in Maine, supplies the United States with one- eighth of its potatoes, Milk pours from the Lake Champlain lowlands in New York State and western Vermont into the vast overlapping watersheds of New York City and Boston, Nearly 22,000 acres of the fertile Connecticut Valley raise High-grade tobacco, ‘One of the world’s foremost producers of commercial vegetables is the Atlantic coastal plain, Although the area. of New Jersey, Maryland, and Delrware is less thin half that af Ohio, these States vield one-seventh of the Nation's canned and frozen vegetables; In 1944 they accounted for nine percent of the total commercial truck crop of the United States, including both fresh vegetables for market anc vegetables to be commercially canned and frozen. Value of the vegetables they raised for com- The National Geographic Magazine mercial processing averaged about $11,060,000 annually in the decade preceding: the wa ‘With inereaser acreage under wartime ‘vation, and higher prices, production of com= mercial vegetables in Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware in 1944 motmted to $26,688,000 —an inctease- in Value of almost 150 percent. Two-thirds of North America’s oysters are dredged in waters between Cape Cod and Cape Hatteras, Chesapeake and Delaware Bays and Long Island Sind’ furnish most of them. Banner agricultural county is Lancaster, in Pennsylvanin, Chief cash cmp is tobacen, which yields from 1,200 to 2,500 pounds per acre, Potatoes average 200 bushels to the were. Wheat, corn, and hay are other im- nt : Pe Sn einen clude Indiana and much af Ohia, About 3,~ 500,000 acres uf Ohio's farmland are planted in corn, and wheat production averages about 40,000,000 bushels a year. Ohio usually is fifth among the States in wheat yield and alse grows much corn, Nearly 90 percent of In- diana’s land area is in farms. Famous Resort Areas Mapped ‘The new map shows the Nation’s most visited seaside areas—hundreds of them—from the coast of Maine south through the swarming, beaches and resort cities of Atlantic Const States, including Maryland. ‘The northeastern uplands—the Adirondacks: in New York, the Green Mountains in Ver- mont, the White Mountains in New. Hamp- shire, and the Berkshires in Massachusetts— form a vast summer and winter playground. Mountains of Pennsylvania and western Maryland also have plentiful play places. ‘The new map is the third in the National Geographic Society's series of sectional charts of the United States. First was the Map of the Southwestern United States (June, 140) and, second, the Map of Northwestern United States und Neighboring Canadian Provinces (June, 1941), ‘The large scale of 27.6 miles to an inch is 1.43 times greater than the scale used for the other two maps. ‘The southeastern New England ares, from the Merrimack River south to include eastern Massachusetts, eastern Conneticut, and Rhode Island, is shown in’ an inset on a scale of 11.84 miles to the inch. ‘Like its companion maps, the new chart shows Federal and State highways and points of particular interest, making it ideal as a reference or road map, *# See “Northeast of Roston’* by Athert W. Atwood, fn this sue of the Naniowat, Groonarnn: MascazoxnFlying Our Wounded Veterans Home By CarHering it Mitchel Field, Long Island, New York, 1 could sees tiny dot up in the sky. Tt was a Douglas C-54, winging in frum Europe with a priceless cargo aboard—wounded Amer- ican veterans returning home. ‘The giant four-motored, Skymaster came closer, light from the sum touching her silver wings. With a graceful dip, she headed into the wind and settled down on the landing strip. As the wheels touched, a base officer asked me, "Did you see that white puff of smoke?” 1 nodded. “Burning rubber,” te explained, “Friction of the wheels against the runway causes it, When one of these big planes lands, enough tubber may be burned off the tires to keep an automobile running for months, “Just one more reason why the Army needs so imuch rubber and why: people have to do without tires.” The plane taxied up the runway. The fight nurse and the medical flight technician opened the huge doors, Quickly 1 gangway was wheeled over level with the iloor of the pkine, which is ten feet above the ground, After the medical officer completed his checkup, the gangway was moved, and the hydraulic lift, which accommodates two litters ta time, was manetivered into position (pages 366 and 368). Red Gross Workers Help with Wounded When the first two litters were placed on the litter cradle, I saw two heads rice up, Both boys had broad grins at their first sight in a long time of the United States, As cach pair of litters was lowered, two litter bearers took them to waiting ambulances driven. by volunteer Red Cross girls. Some of the litter bearers were volunteer Red Cross workers, business men in the com= munity who give up a day a week todo this job, ‘This plane carried 18 stretcher cases. The entire procedure, from the time the unloading stirted until the ambulances were filled, took only 17 minutes (page 366), Tasked the flight nurse if she had come over with the wounded all the way fram Europe. she replied. “T brought them down ephenville, Newfoundland.” that you have delivered your 1 questioned, “will you get some Ps where I stood, facing the runway “Oh, yes," she said, “I have 24 hours’ Brun PAuMer is but T'm not going to take it here, tonight T looked at her, Her lustrous blond hair was blowing about her face, her clear blue eyes were twinkling, In the postwar world a week— end fight from New York to Paris will he a thrilling experience to many of ws. Tt is an old story to her—New York to Newfoundland, approximately 1,000 miles, far a dance! Routes ilown by these Air Transport Com- mand * planes over the Athintic vary, depend- ing on. weather conditions. No chances are ever taken flying aur buys home, One of every five casualties evacuated to the United States in 1044 came by plane. Early this year casualties from all theaters were being fiiwn at the rate of more than a thousand m@ month, A record number was ‘mare during May, 1945, when ATC planes brought more than 10,000 wounded os to the United States, T went on hoard the second plane before the wounded were taken off, On each side of the cabin were three tiers of litters, three litters ta tier, ‘This C-54 used the stanchion-type ‘of litter support, consisting af metal poles at- tached to floor and ceiling. Horizontal metal arms were attached to euch pole and litters were locked: in pilace on the arms. At the rear was the gear belonging to the pa- tients. Life jackets were stowed on one side: «mn_the other was the 7$-pound medical chest. These C-54'5 can’ accommodate from 18 to 28 patients, the number depending on whether they are stretcher or ambulatory cases, Vm & to Stephenville for the big, dance Wax in Paris Yesterday Morning” As T stepped into the plane, T faced 18 pairs of eves looking my way and was greeted by a chorus of “helloes.” ‘Hello yourselves,” I answered. “How was said one, per “This baby,” said another, patting the side of the plane, “really gets you places ina hurry, but smooth, Golly, to think I was in Paris yesterday morning? And from another, “Yeah, boy, nothing. can stop the Army Air Corpst” T went to the First Air Force Regional Station Hospital near Mitchel Field, a 10- minute ride from the airfield, Here, the * See "American Wings Soar Around, the: World,” by Donald H. Agnew and William A. Kinney, in the Naniowat. Grocuarme MAckrnor, July, 1943) 36h34 The National Geographic Magazine Thrilling Moment for a Returning GI snl ther & “Let Me Touch Good USA, Earth Just arrived! by air at Mitchel Fi kde through his fingers. Som hhactle easinattles have bee 2 it, Sanu ean in 104 gional Station Hh While you are here we expe fed medical and surgical attention, and m as possible you will be tra il selected for you by the Office al in Washiigton—a hos nis slay from 24 to 48 hours before pital, Mite to hospitals wher pleting the trip by receive final me In the admitting given a checkup by carries a4 from the As T entered the tr who had just been taken f spine Were stretcher cases, ott t On patients are comfort divans and radio phone worker was serving sandwiches iee, tea, milk—and more ur he was wounded 1 saw ut professional requirement m the planes lity of hospital beds es walking pa s in this community have provic jatory for you a free telephone eall or telegram, ade of each man: his name: , whether he is an ambul sicte chairs and A reoord is 1 Cross rank, medical c tory or a litter ps he pref Two solliers were teading recent issu coke by teletyy the Nattowat Grockapnic Magazin cal Regulating, Officer a ; Washington, D.C. To determine de Teton Hl .on Petedepmiits: Bree tinations of patients, the United States has Each patient tice which te as follaws uate now at the First Air Force Re id for secrec it to save if example,Flying Our Wounded Veterans Hom: iter cradle are be if Cruse girls will drive th ation Hospital, a ten-minute ri an enlisted man, litter ease, with a te pyreferon whe would be coded as district 22, whieh includes New the medical classification, Gen- ary classification, male ne patient screening, h patient, is done by theater of operations Fey #22" means Jersey; “KE ry; "mil ‘eral Surg enlisted His First Trip in an Airplane the: following types of eases ed for air evacuation to the Uni litter patients who require hospitaliza- for 90 days ur more; patient te trediment pe anid fa m the theater; ambulatory patients who re quire an v1 nt period: and patients ¢ je but whnse condition s-such tha be. sent hom F wond The National Geographic Magazine cently they want to talk? need not have worried As Twi «| into the ward, 1 saw the bright blue eves of a youngster smiling up at ane Did you like coming home with sold Wor 13.507 , there, by plane? “TM say 1 did? 1 wouldn't take any for it, First time V've ever been in plane This 19-year-old lad to ope on the Queen & From-a German? Nope. ‘The ilight nurse gave it ton T couldn't find my matches. Gee, she was swell! The whole thing is swell." “What whole thi ‘Oh, the good « . 1 American way of doingFlying Our Wounded Veterans Hom On Baul Navy Flight Nurse Aids » Wounded Marine in (rom 4 baxe in, the Marlunas to evacuate the wounded, Ensign Jane Ki an the voli t's new airstrip March 6 1 a(ter D Pay. She was th bt i f id later th the first to land on Okinawa S ¢ Atlantic by plane than it d en hit in fiv the only wound that in the right side of h Fellows, Gome Here and Look!" can fix itup sof Mom tell me, but Tm re giving me ¢ well 168 stitches taker 1, hat a bit rough... now, you're nat to as the result of an automobile ace years ago. Can you seo them You're kk Where? e is in Lan: ing!” he in France ¢ whose Well, I'll be & son of wed him: nt-near Remagen. a gun!” a. “Hey, fellows, came and this here and le A crowd gathered around me hus less time and T felt like exhibit A,ex of a Jap Zeco Bomb WouSit A private, first class, with Li. Gen. Alex- ander M. Patch’s Seventh Army, told me that when some of the men were an a bespital train waiting to be taken to an evacuation hospital, the general walked through the train and stoppetl to ask this bay how he got wounded. “LE told him t got mine when we were attack- ing. The general said to me, ‘That’s when most of us get it, soldier.’ And then he patted me on the shoulder.’ ‘The private laughed, then Retenied, “Something funny happen?” 1 asked, *Yeah,” he replied. He told me General Patch asked the man on the litter next to his where he got shot. ‘The soldier said he wax hit in the back by a rifle bullet. “Sort of going the wrong way, weren't vou, soldier?” Patch said smilingly. “Well, you know, sir,” the soldier replied, “they say that when you're hit in the back it doesn’t mean you were running away. It just means you were surrounded.” All these GI's had stories to tell. Not of their own bravery, They did not think of themselves ax heroes. One,a rancher in Idaho before the war, said, “We're not soldiers. We're ‘camouffaged civilians’ doing a fob that has to be done: and doing it iast'se we can all go back to living » peaceful fife again.” ‘They talked of their wounds and how they got them. ‘They showed me pictures of their girls, and of their wives and children. They plunged hands into their kits and drew out souvenirs—small pieces of shrapnel, German knives, German money, German pipes, “T sent my souvenirs home to my wife—S0 pairs of pure silk hose,” one said, He told me he saw thousands of pairs in one German town. From Japan, of course, Flight Nurses an Tnnovation Flight nurses are an innovation of this war. A nurse must be in the Army Nurse Corps for at least six months to he eligible to apply for the nine-week course in Aviation Nursing at the AAF School of Aviation Medicine, now at. Randolph Field, Texas, Prior to October, 194, the school was located at Buw:man Field, Kentucky. ‘The course is divided into three parts of three weeks each. ‘The first two cover a re- view of medical and military subjects, plus subjects peculiar 10 ‘ait evacuation of the sick and wounded, Special emphasis is placed on aeromedical physiology and therapeutics, and on the handling of neuropsychiatric casualties, ‘The nurses learn the conversion of cargo alretaft for the transpartation af casualties in fiselages set up at the school (piage 349). On actual aircraft in fight, simulated wounds The National Geographic Magavine are bandaged, splints are applied to the “wounded,” ahd “patients” “are treated for sbock and recelve blood plasma and oxygen. ‘The third stage of training is the evacua- tion of sick and wounded within continental ‘United Stites. In actual evacuation the nurse Jetrns to work with a medical technician who has had similar training. Both work. under ‘the supervision of a member of the staff while on these fights. At present, approsimately 1,200 nurses have heen trained in aviation nursing, 800 of whom are actively in-air evacuation. Some of the nurses are awaiting assignment with an air-evacuation unit; others have been ‘rotated ‘tw. six’ months’ service In a general hospital following 18 months or more of duty as flight nurses overseas, ‘The first class of fight nurses was gerad- wated from Bowman Fielden February 18, 18) and all were assigned to flight nurse uty. Since that time 31 Medical Air Evacuation ‘Squadrons have been trained. There are four fights to a squatiron, each flight being com- sanded by a flight surgeon and composed of six flight nurses, six medical technicians, anid two clerks. At_the hespital at Mitchel Field 1 talked ‘with Lt. Jeannette Pitcherella, who was one of ‘the first fight nurses to serve in the China- Burma-India Theater. Attached to the 803d Medical Air Evacuation Squadron, she reached India in November, 1943. On some trips her patients included men from Brig. Gen. Frank D. Merrill's Maraud- ots. f asked her if she had ever encountered ‘trouble. One day, she said, when they were taking off from Calcutta to pick up a load of wounded, an engine conked out and the plane crashed. ‘The plane was heavily loaded with gasoline, and, tearing an explosion, the pilot ordered all the crew to jump, “We did.” she said. “And we all made it. ‘But in the excitement and rush to get out of ‘the plane I must have caught on of thy fingers in the door, because when T got on the ground T noticed it was gone.” At New Castle Army Air Base, Wilmington, Delaware, C talked with Lt, Elsie Ott, first nurse to fly witha planeload of wounded. An Army nurse, she was serving in a hospital in india when chosen to take charge of five pa- ies on a flight ia India to Washington, in January, otk flight was fan ‘one month before the first cliss of light nurses was graduated from AAF School of Air Evacuation, The trip of approximately 17,000 miles took less than