Berlin in Your Pocket
Berlin in Your Pocket
Berlin in Your Pocket
Berlin
April - May 2016
Summer season
Parks, cafés & ice cream
Isa Genzken
Gropius-Bau exhibition
inyourpocket.com
N°80 - €1.75
closed on Tue
www.gropiusbau.de
Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele
Nofretete, 2014, Courtesy Galerie Buchholz, Köln/Berlin/New York, David Zwirner, New York/
London und Hauser & Wirth © Isa Genzken, VG Bild – Kunst, Bonn 2016
Contents
Transport 5
Getting around by S&U
Basics 6
Essential travel tips
Sports in Berlin 8
All about Berlin’s top teams
Berlin Mitte 19
The delights of the city centre
© Draghicich | Dreamstime.com
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 32
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Friedrichshain 41
Worker’s paradise, student’s playground
SYMBOL KEY Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 44
The gentrified north
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music Berlin Kreuzberg 48
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room City Tours 57
S Take away R Internet Guided walks, bike rides and drives
W Wi-Fi
River Tours 59
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Directory & Street register 60
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MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
© dreamstime.com
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it
to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
deportations of the Nazi era. of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, the staid parts of the district.
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)
becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
TIERGARTEN (TG) Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing breakfast all day.
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl. FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
KREUZBERG (KB) Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off Zehlendorf (ZD).
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 7
Sports in Berlin
The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to
visit: you don’t need to understand German to be
able to follow a match and unlike in other European
countries, sports matches in Germany are quite
peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring
the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or
evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are
playing where can be problematic for visitors however
as the club websites are not all available in English, and
some make it difficult to find the upcoming playing
dates. In the club details here we have listed all home
matches for the following months, though always keep
Hertha BSC © Photo: Jan-Philipp Burmann/City-Press GbR an eye on the club websites for changes or additional
matches.
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the
city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing Hertha BSC
five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union Local football team Hertha BSC’s dream season continues,
play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is leaving the fans clad in blue and white ecstatic! Hertha is
Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play handball, currently in third place with a solid defence and a great
and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their offence with Salomon Kalou and Vedad Ibišević - with
home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s Vladimír Darida orchestrating close behind them. It’s going
stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold to be exciting, with the Champions League firmly in sight
for their events. In addition to this, Berlin’s streets regularly and it’s almost certain that they’ll play in the Europe League
host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals next year.
during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts
countless amateur sports matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports website
www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about
Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international
sports event destination. Enjoy cheering for Berlin!
FC Union is the working man’s football team for Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at
Berlin, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and a feared the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second
counterpart for the GDR’s state-influenced Dynamo largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games
club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was
their charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The founded back in 1892 and is know as the ‘Alte Dame’,
club has resisted all commercialism, with a club the old lady, witnessing its glory years between 1926
anthem sung by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and and 1931 when it reached the German Championship
a stadium uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. finals 6 times, winning it twice. Hertha’s doing very well
Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough at the moment, positioned 3rd, with new coach Pal
time in the 1990s, but has had more success in the Dardai turning the team’s fortunes around with solid
national competitions since the early 2000s. The defence, great tackling and a very good pass accuracy.
new trainer, Lewandowski, has introduced a more Keep an eye on the two forwards Vedad Ibisevic and
offensive style of playing, and Union is enjoying a Salomon Kalou who work very well together and just
solid season. try to follow Vladimir Darida who covers over 13km per
match!
17 Apr, 13:30: FC Heidenheim 8 Apr, 20:30: Hannover 96
29 Apr, 18:30: VfL Bochum 23 Apr, 15:30: FC Bayern München
15 May, 15:30: SC Freiburg 7 May, 15:30: SV Darmstadt 98
QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion),
Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805
68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43. 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.
Numbers (6), 2011; Trio, 2010; We the people (detail), 2011 at Sammlung Boros © Photo: Noshe
Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN
perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects
closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the using old techniques, especially the wetplate method
decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos
artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery
in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos,
nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few and have one made.
of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions. QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49
152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com.
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
After lengthy renovations, the Berlinische Galerie recently SAMMLUNG BOROS
reopened, exhibiting the city’s excellent collection of local A former bunker holds the private art gallery of
art from 1880-1980. Until 24 August there’s an exhibition of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who
remarkable works by painter Bernhard Martin (1966); this live on top of the absurd structure. It’s full of wonderful
artist from Hannover paints extravagant pictorial narratives contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and
which always seeks visual resources appropriate to the a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly filling up a
theme, often alluding to artists of the past. room. Tours only, book well in advance.
QAlte Jakobstraße 124-128, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, QReinhardstraße 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65,
www.berlinischegalerie.de. www.sammlung-boros.de.
Freie Fahrt
free travel on public transport
Bis zu 50% sparen bei 200 Attraktionen
save up to 50% on 200 attractions
Überall in Berlin
erhältlich I Available Inkl. Kurzreiseführer + Stadtplan
everywhere in Berlin incl. pocket guide + city map
– oder gleich online
buchen I or book directly
online!
ab
from 19,50 € *
berlin-welcomecard.de
Culture & Events
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets at the venue.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
- and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of de. Tickets €10-99.
matches played year-round.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
West Berlin’s 1960s opera building with its excellent Unter den Linden are completed.QC‑3, Bismarckstraße
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB‑3, 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.
Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from €16. SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
KOMISCHE OPER This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s.
building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF‑3, from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays,
Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 concerts and musicals.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte,
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150. MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular The Berlin Residence Orchestra consists of well-known
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, musicians, who interpret baroque and classic opera with a
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a keen sense of the compositions from that era. The result
is an extraordinary concert event, with musical highlights
presented true to the original style and aristocratic sound.
EVENT TICKETS Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlotten-
burg castle, and a dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB‑3,
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department tel. +49 30 25 810 350, www.residenzkonzerte.berlin.
stores) and online. Dinner 18:00, concert 20:00. Tickets €29-127.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
BLUE MAN GROUP
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped,
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also with many new sketches and elements.QE‑4, Marlene
at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC‑4, Harden- Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
bergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologis- 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00;
cher Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket. Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €69.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pick- ASK THE CONCIERGE
up.QH‑4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Gör-
litzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36. Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-lan- Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
guage service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs. be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
papagena.de. of their jackets.
WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ
One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a THE GATE MULTIMEDIA
dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with SHOW
acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the
show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during
the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE‑4,
Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße,
tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows
Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €37,20-70,20.
11 April, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin, Daniil Trifonov (piano)
Conductor: Pablo Heras-Casado; Works by Rachmaninov T HE C R A ZY S H O W
and de Falla O NLY TO 5 T H JUNE IN B E R L IN !
PH
12 April, 20:00
Orchestra Dell’ Accademia Nazionale Di Santa
Cecilia, Hélène Grimaud (piano)
Conductor: Sir Antonio Pappano; Works by Rossini,
Beethoven and Saint-Saens D E R H E L L E WA H N S I N N
PH
berlinesque ▼ artistic ▼ revue
13 April, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Peter Ruzicka; Works by Ruzicka, Beethoven and
Enescu
PH
23 April, 20:00
„Untamed, rampant, and
Quatuor Ebène provocative.“ Berliner Morgenpost
Works by Haydn, Debussy and Beethoven
PH Starring: Jack Woodhead, David Pereira,
Sarah Bowden, Rummelsnuff
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Thomas Sondergard; Works by Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00
Sibelius, Nielsen and Tchaikovsky
Tickets from 32 €
PH
Prices plus advance booking fee
27 & 28 April, 20:00 and € 2 system fee / ticket
Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Andris Nelsons; Works by Wagner and Bruckner bit.ly/wigaweb # wigawahnsinn
PH
30 April, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Christian
Poltéra (cello) Potsdamer Straße 96, D -10785 Berlin Tiergarten
Conductor: Jiri Belohlávek; Works by Janácek, Martinu and Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your
Dvorak tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de
PH
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 15
Culture & Events
18 May, 20:00
DEUTSCHE OPER Deutsches Kammerorchester Berlin, Viktoria
Postnikova (piano)
Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back Conductor: Rachael Young; Works by Pärt, Schnittke,
into its home theatre after extensive renovations this Arensky and Tchaikovsky
winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one PH
of their performances. Several shows have English-
language subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see 19 May, 20:00
the website for details. The highlights of Berlin’s famous Anne-Sophie Mutter (violin), Yefim Bronfman
Deutsche Oper orchestra this season are: (piano), Lynn Harrell (cello)
6 Apr: Salome Works by Beethoven and Tchaikovsky
7 Apr: Elektra, Strauss PH
8 Apr: The Egyptian Helen, Strauss
9 Apr: The Love of Danae, Strauss 20 May, 20:00
10,14, 17 Apr: The Knight of the Rose, Strauss Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Miah
16,22,24 Apr: Carmen, Bizet Persson (soprano)
21,28 Apr: Romeo & Juliette, ballet Conductor: Kent Nagano; Works by Wagner, Schönberg,
23 Apr: The Magic Flute, Mozart Schubert and Strauss
1,4 May: Lucia di Lammermoor, Donizetti PH
2,6 May: La Traviata, Verdi
5,8 May: Lohengrin, Wagner 22 May, 20:00
7,12 May: Norma, Bellini Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra, Daniil Trifonov
14 May: Tosca, Puccini (piano)
15 May: The Magic Flute, Mozart Conductor: Manfred Honeck; Works by Beethoven,
16 May: Romeo & Juliette, ballet Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky
28 May: The Troubadour, Verdi PH
29 May: Concert for open culture, by Donald Runnicles
23 May, 20:00
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstraße 35, tel. Singapore Symphony Orchestra, Jan Vogler
+49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. (cello)
Conductor: Lan Shui; Works by Zhangyi, Schumann, Strauss
and Ravel
7 May, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Ingo Metzmacher; Works by Strauss and Janacek
PH K-SALON: CLARA JORIS
9 May, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin, Sennu Laine (cello)
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Debussy, Dutilleux
and Ravel
PH
12 May, 20:00
Grigory Sokolov (piano)
Works by Schumann and CHopin
PH
CORRS
THE
A P R K P R O D U C T I O N I N C O O P E R AT I O N W I T H S O L O
28 April, 21:00
Method Man & Redman (Hip Hop)
HX
30 April, 20:00
Anastacia (Rock)
AD
7 May, 20:00
Iggy Pop (Rock)
TD
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 17
Culture & Events
EXHIBITIONS MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU:
Until 8 May GG LEE MILLER
Holbein in Berlin
Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543) was one of
the greatest portrait painters of the Renaissance. Born
in Augsburg, he began his career in Basel; one of his
masterpieces is the Schutzmantelmadonna of Jakob Meyer
zum Hasen which is the focus of this exhibition.
Until 22 May CO
Stephen Shore – Restrospective
Stephen Shore registers, conserves and reflects traces of
human life that are usually overlooked and not considered
worthy of depiction in his photographic series. As an
observer of the unspectacular he reveals the structures and
relationships in our Western culture.
Until 6 June MG
Günter Brus – Zones of Disruption
Brus first appeared in public as an “actionist” in Vienna
in 1965. This is the artist’s first exhibition in Berlin, even © Lee Miller Archives, England 2016
though he lived here for a long period and influenced This exhibition of 100 excellent photos by one of the
most versatile photographers and photo-journalists
WINTERGARTEN: of the 20th century in the USA includes genres such
as surrealism, fashion, portrait and travel photography
SHEER MADNESS as well as war reporting. The photographs cover
many parts of the world and illustrate Miller’s life from
different perspectives: as assistant, muse and partner
of Man Ray, as a pioneer of art photography and as a
photo-journalist during the Second World War. Some
photos are ranked amongst the most haunting war
documents of the 20th century.
19 March until 12 June
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel.
+49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
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Mitte
Restaurants & Cafés
MUTTER HOPPE
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
GERMAN historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
ALPENSTUECK meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, sides not served at other German restaurants, including
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte,
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30-24:00. €€.
palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, TEGB
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00-01:00. €€. TUGBS RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same 1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold
door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolific Jewish writer knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage.
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can
in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of shake up a great cocktail.QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10,
Berlin’s nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
Flammkuchen pies are served, and it’s a great place for berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00.
a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, EGBW
opposite.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU
Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph- ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN
roth-diele.de. Open 10:00-24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was
TENGBSW once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple interior
is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as
MAXIMILIANS Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is
So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards in the
food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal.
No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt,
and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserie-weingruen.de.
Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. TUGBSW
the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes
such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. UGBS atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU
BACK TO SCHOOL Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00-24:00. €€.
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district TUNBS
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the
watering hole for adult students from all around the STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG
world who are learning German at the GLS language Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when
school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s
meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U
27, www.gls-berlin.de. Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B
20 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
WEIHENSTEPHANER
The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this FOOD WITH A VIEW
is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple KÄFER DACHGARTEN
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages). When time is money, you may as well spend it on a
The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked good meal while visiting the Reichstag dome. Make
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3, a reservation to be whisked up to your meal and a
Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. 180-degree view of eastern Berlin. German specialities
+49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de. are highlighted and a regional name appears in most
Open 11:00-01:00. €€. TUEGB main course listings. Last orders are taken at 21:30. Bring
ID to get into the buidling.QF‑3, Platz der Republik
ZILLE-STUBE 1,Tiergarten, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose 22 62 99 33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Open 09:00 -
illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes 10:15, 12:00-16:30, 18:30-24:00. €€€. AB
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf- PANORAMA CAFÉ
stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot The 1930s-style café at the
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU top of the popular Pots-
Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube- damer Platz viewing point
nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E has large windows and an
open terrace with great
ZUM NUSSBAUM views over Berlin, and
What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming serves coffee, cakes and
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used other snacks.QE‑4, Pots-
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. damer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00-
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities 17:00. Tower admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.
with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’.
QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. GB KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
@InYourPocket placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße
ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97,
Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB
state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded.
Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder MONSIEUR VUONG
brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU restaurant in Mitte. There are only five dishes and two daily
Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz. specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second
de. Open 12:00-01:00. Closed Sun. €€. GBS bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fight
the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take
ASIAN reservations.QG‑2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 46, Mitte,
JOLLY MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. S
S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and
modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and VAN LONG
Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all
duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options
also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the
meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3, specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling
Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.
+49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www. QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. AUBS 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 21
Mitte
(as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep
AUSTRIAN carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte,
BRECHT KELLER MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00.
making do with East German ingredients, so though €€€€. PAG hh
decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold LUTTER & WEGNER
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125, and you can trust the national committee that dubbed
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3,
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel.
+49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00.
Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the
FINE DINING Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. AB
AIGNER
One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly PARIS-MOSKAU
international, as its name, concept and all the old Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station -
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced positioned between new government offices and hotels.
fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25, Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
€€€. TUGBSW tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a
lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
BORCHARDT MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good first paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A
original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The money and
creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up VAU
with a different menu each day to keep its regular clientele It’s easy to spell and rhymes with wow, and the latter is
surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes the word-of-mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleeberg’s
here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, restaurant fully booked for years. Using many products
MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www. from the Berlin area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows
borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. GB his mentor Josef Viehhauser’s rule: never more than three
products on a plate.QF‑3, Jägerstraße 54/55, Mitte, MU
FACIL Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 97 30, www.vau-
At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare €€€€. PAG h
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
CASINO
retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U SPIELBANK BERLIN
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
FISCHERS FRITZ the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and a tour including game instructions.QE‑4, Marlene-
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei
22 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
VOX
Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London, JAPANESE
and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, COCOLO
minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
Between the live jazz in the adjoining lounge and the restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
so don’t drop your sushi in your lap. The Vox bar is open and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of
from 18:00 and closes when guests decide. The kitchen salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have
is open until 24:00. Breakfast on Saturday continues an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3,
until 11:00 and on Sunday until 14:00.QE‑4, Marlene- Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, 84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. GB
tel. +49 30 25 53 17 02, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com.
Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 14:30; 18:30 - 24:00. €€€. SUSHI CIRCLE
PAEGB This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If you’re not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by
INDIAN on the bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around
AAPKA again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, a request off for you.QF‑3, Französische Straße 48, Mitte,
Aapka offers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 650 60, www.
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-23:00. €.
young Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG‑2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, SPANISH
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-01:00. €€. YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
B Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-
sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff
is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools
INTERNATIONAL and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point
NOLA’S AM WEINBERG from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 37, Mitte,
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€. PAB
St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order
meals until midnight.QG‑2, Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www. CAFÉS
nola.de. Open 10:00-01:00. €€. TUGBS BARCOMI’S DELI
Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and
REINHARD’S luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3, cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also
Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€. outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5,
TGBS Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de.
TRAUBE Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The
Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent SOPHIENECK
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross- A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
or compose their own menus, with or without wines. trendification, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2, of art nouveau and poster art. The menu offers delicious
Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. Central European fare, accompanied by an international wine
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00- list.QG‑2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte, MU
15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.sophieneck-
TGB berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 23
Mitte
THE DIGITAL EATERY lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2,
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel.
devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW
+49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring,
Nightlife Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it
often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making
stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF‑2,
BARS Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
AUFSTURZ 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable CLUBS
and the place looks good, with changing modern art GRÜNER SALON
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@ like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG‑2, Volksbühne,
aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
EASTWOOD BERLIN-MITTE Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
A high-end lounge bar and weekend club nearby
Gendarmenmarkt, with a glamorous modern interior by KAFFEE BURGER
local designer Emell Gök Che, a regularly changing cocktail The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
menu, and champagne. The club part is open on weekend decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-
nights, when DJs pump out house, lounge, electro and the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
jazz sounds - use the VIP table service to make the night Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
complete.QRosmarinstr. 8, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 67 90 like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
54, reservierung@eastwood-berlin.de, www.eastwood- DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
berlin.de. Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Club open Fri/ QG‑2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz,
Sat 23:00-06:00. W tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher ROTER SALON
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters This place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge,
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG‑2,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.roter-
the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG‑3, salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de, www.eschschloraque.de. WEEK-END CLUB
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
MEIN HAUS AM SEE agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-
It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the Braun-Straße.QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open Thu-
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture Sat 23:00-04:00.
24 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte Anfahrt | Directions
(Nähe Checkpoint Charlie) U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
NEUE SYNAGOGE
PUBS The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
KILKENNY IRISH PUB eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
station offer more than enough space for natives and 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG‑3, whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www. to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30,
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00-
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
company’s art collection is presented in four well-curated for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract several more open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer Straße
artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467
larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
around the museum.QE‑4, Alte Potsdamer Straße 5, berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00,
Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung. Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition
daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free. open 24hrs). Admission free.
WALL PANORAMA
The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an
incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of
the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked
Shopping
in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has captured the
everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes ALEXA CENTRE
of life, on both sides of the divide. English tour Thu 11:30. A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40, five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a
www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mid-July to mid-Sept massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission €10/8. exhibition.QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
VIEWPOINTS lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER) 19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlin’s skyline. FREY WILLE
The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed Quality artistic enamel jewellery from Austria, inspired
in 1969, 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest by famous artists like Klimt, Mucha, Monet and
building in Germany, has an observation deck and the Hundertwasser. Besides the shop in Mitte, there’s also an
Sphere restaurant with a rotating floor. Photos point out outlet at Kurfürstendamm 50.QKarl Liebknechtstr. 3
the landmarks for you.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, (DomAquarée mall), Mitte, tel. +49 30 23 45 73 31, www.
MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Admission freywille.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
€12/8. Closed Sun.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 29
Mitte
GUDRUN SJÖDÉN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a
The best Berlin bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two
floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.
has to offer de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Hotels
OVER €200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF‑2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240
- 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
HILTON
Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
MARRIOTT
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
30 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlin’s finest hotels.QE‑4, Inge-Beisheim-
Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22
360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ
00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles
€159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 -
1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy
of the Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a
round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler
service.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.
com, www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles
€136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15
junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
hhhhh
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
€150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and long-
term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185-
190 are close to all the action.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de.
157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
€75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and
ition
goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF‑2, Exhib
Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 Views
lin
284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond. of Ber
de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225).
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Charlottenburg & the West
Restaurants & Cafés
GERMAN
APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5,
Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS
KNESE Zillemarkt
Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic
Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled
prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz.
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with
good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-
Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße 61,
RENGER-PATZSCH Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, www.
kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and schoeneberger-weltlaterne.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,
the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB
such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared
pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen.
QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher
Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com.
Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.
RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN
A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace
and several top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an
excellent restaurant with a bright interior and a large
terrace. It specialises in German and game dishes using
fresh regional products; try the spicy goulash soup, a
Bratwurst game sausage, fresh fish dishes or calf liver.QB‑3,
Schlossstr. 64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-
Platz, tel. +49 30 36 70 22 99, restaurant-schlossgarten@
web.de, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. Open
11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00.
Local cuisine
Wartburgstraße 54
Berlin - Schöneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
Renger-Patzsch
AUSTRIAN
Suksan OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
ZILLEMARKT seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town,
It’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
for his charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
bar.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB
- 24:00. TB
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
JJ
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
Zillemarkt
Caféhaus • Restaurant
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB‑3,
Over 100 years of Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-
comfort and quality Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS
Traditional German cuisine
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t
move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying
at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far
East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.
QD‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.
de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h
HUGOS
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 The InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant on
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00 the 14th floor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer
Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is equally dazzling; expect
Tel. 030-881 70 40 subtle creations blending fine flavours in the lightest of dishes.
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg QD‑4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
www.zillemarkt.de Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h
34 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
FRENCH
LE PETIT ROYAL SUKSAN
TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak
too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin,
QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de. combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness,
and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dis-
hes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo
INTERNATIONAL roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us
DIEKMANN take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-
restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
€€€. UGB
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, 100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-
THAI RESTAURANT
dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
SUKSAN
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space Ansbacher Strasse 4
only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian corner Kurfürstenstrasse
dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU U - Wittenbergplatz
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn- www.suksan.de
catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €.
NGS
TEL 030.21 01 86 73
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 35
Charlottenburg & the West
ITALIAN RUSSIAN
FRANCUCCI’S SAMOWAR
Francucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home- Berlin’s oldest Russian restaurant can fittingly be found
made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century.
truffles.QB‑4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Stroganoff, Odessa
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci. fish soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW setting with dark wood, paintings, busts and antiques. For
an extra memorable experience book the 3-course Czar
LA FORCHETTA menu with borscht soup, shashlik, salmon, veal and bliny
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but desserts - or enjoy a tea ceremony with Russian sweets.
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served QLuisenplatz 3, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 341 41 54,
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer, www.restaurant-samowar.de. Open From 11:00.
a romantic terrace is available.QA‑5, Königsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. SPANISH
Open 12:00 - 24:00. B EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
ZWÖLF APOSTEL for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg,
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€.
TNGBS CAFÉS
CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
JAPANESE Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
SACHIKO SUSHI renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten,
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC‑3, 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB
Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi. CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
€€. TGBS polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and
ORIENTAL critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that
MAROOUSH are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße
Egyptian-Oriental opulence with a modern twist. This 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30
restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has decent 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de,
meze starters and Middel Eastern mains; on Friday and www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB
Saturday the belly-dancers perform to live music.QC‑4,
Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, CAFE KALWIL
tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de. A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg.
Open 15:00 - 01:00. E Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality teas,
Read more reviews online: cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.
berlin.inyourpocket.com QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €€. ABW
36 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS
Nightlife
BARS
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up,
and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 50,
Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15,
www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-
berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
WEST BERLIN REVIVAL
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used
by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a
font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals
come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade
wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz
or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and
magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals,
like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until
03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social
arrangement.QC‑4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-
berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin
found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedächtniskirche stands the gleaming
new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary
Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours
Hotel Bikini Berlin.
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Friedrichshain
ASIAN BARS
GLORY DUCK CRACK BELLMER
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with ginger- RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking
mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings. however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized space
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance
vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of drinks and at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4, Revaler
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by; Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße,
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.
lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one wall and the UNB
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI‑4,
Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel. HABERMEYER
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 - Like many Berlin bars, Habermeyer recycles the 1970s with
24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. AUBSW its light fixtures and furnishings but it also created its own
unusual wall designs. A popular table football and flipper
machine provide distraction from the loud and very varied DJ
INTERNATIONAL music, though there’s no space to dance, but there’s free salty
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE snacks to console you.QJ‑4, Gärtnerstraße 6, Friedrichshain,
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 29 77 18 87, www.habermeyer-
– what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good bar.de. Open from 19:00 - open end. UNB
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - CLUBS
24:00. €. TUNGBS BERGHAIN
A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the
CUPCAKE BERLIN main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together with our of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the
mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always
own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’ cupcake (with Elvis’ varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best
favourite ingredients), the sweet ‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays
the other 20-odd creations. There’s a good breakfast and too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI‑3/4, Am
coffee served at Cup Cake too.QJ‑4, Krossener Straße 12, Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel.
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 -
76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. UNGBW
TUVNGBSW
MATRIX
Directly underneath under the Warschauer Straße U-Bahn
CAFÉS station DJs lay down tracks of R’n’B, straight house, soul,
KAUFBAR electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors within the
At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate croissant vaults that date back to 1901. There’s always a party here,
with either a coffee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine, 365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday has
you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work, party classics with free champagne before midnight for
chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails.QI‑4,
the “Buy Bar” are their board games.QJ‑4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 Straße, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrix-berlin.de.
77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission €3-6. UGBW
Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW
POSTBAHNHOF CLUB
MACONDO Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this well-run
Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 club set inside the former mail station next to Ostbahnhof has
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical three dancefloors and an outdoor bar. The music varies nightly
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s depending on the party theme; everything from 90s, RnB and
old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good rock to house and electro. Unlike other clubs in the area, this
coffee and original South American mate tea, sipped through is no overhyped favourite - you can simply expect to have a
a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI‑4, Gärtnerstraße 14, good time here. Also known for concerts and other events.
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 QStraße der Pariser Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS
59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.de, www.macondo-berlin. Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 698 12 80, www.postbahnhof.club.
de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Admission €4-7,50.
42 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Friedrichshain
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Restaurants & Cafés
GERMAN
DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
Die Schule
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, RESTAURATION 1900
Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-die- photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
schule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
METZER ECK Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the all-
tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars you-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH‑2, Husemannstraße
like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 -
and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern 23:00. €-€€. TBSW
owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box
that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 FAST FOOD
56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 KONNOPKE’S IMBISS
- 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. NGBS The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
DAILY 11.00 – 24.00 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.
INTERNATIONAL
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n chill.
Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided,
there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the
wine and cocktail menu.QH‑1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14,
Modern and light German food www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - open end.
on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50
visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this
info@restaurant-die-schule.de is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The
www.restaurant-die-schule.de atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße
37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30
U2 Eberswalder Str. U8 Rosenthaler Platz 442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com.
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 45
Prenzlauer Berg
SANTIAGO
ITALIAN This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel – but manages to get the punters in with a range of
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder weekends.QH‑2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
JAPANESE WEINSTEIN
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor
this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better
California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer
English.QH‑2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 - weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
CAFÉS @InYourPocket
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up WOHNZIMMER
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDR-
connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and era tables are constantly being shuffled to make room
fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58,
www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar CLUBS
at night together with a variety of artists, students and GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag
Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH‑2, Am
Open 08:00 - 02:00. Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße,
tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open
Nightlife Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
SODA CLUB
BARS In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a
AUGUST FENGLER fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu
Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
46 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Prenzlauer Berg
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
MUSEUMS
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS
Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770, tausche.de
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid
living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and
Berlin.QH‑1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg,
MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www. FASHION & SHOES
ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Closed Wed. Admission €2/1. Bags with exchangeable flaps in
over 100 different designs. Two
flaps are included and various insets
PARKS AND GARDENS equip the bag to suit any occasion.
MAUERPARK QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlau-
The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery er Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße,
to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@
border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it tausche.de, www.tausche.de.
hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where 18:00. Closed Sun.
anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd
of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark. MARKETS
info. FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative
Shopping souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not
particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market.
Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG‑1, Bernauer Straße
BOOKS 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176
SHAKESPEARE & SONS 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language 09:00-15:00.
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH‑1,
Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Full contents online:
Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun berlin.inyourpocket.com
11:00 - 19:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 47
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death strip and left alone r. Rosa- POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG
so end
ler Str.
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h-
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to play loud music and Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
r.
ge
ow
urge Wa
str.ten-
Friedrichstr. Am s
r. U
.
snick- strrnim W Lan
str
Almst
Alte
or
r S
burg
dze
urger
st
str.
rau str.
Ge
Str. cks . -
draw on the walls. By now, Weinmeisterstr. ih ng
Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
un-
Johannisstr. tr.
el-
.
K
Str
c
-Str
. üs
lsky-
annstr Oran
Str.
ib
Mol
Bra
str.
chum the protesting students ienburger Str. A lstr. B
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
Ke
- lexa
Platz der llee
ustr.
.
Ziegelstr.
Vereinten Landsberger A
Dircksen
Mat
Tucho
dtstr. t
ndauer
Monbijoupark str.
ar h p lat nde
Zirk
ec
nh of 1968 have grown grey and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps
nbijo
o-
Rei Nationen
Albre
hias
Hackescher Markt S r.
-
Bertolt- Ro n ch z r Ber fst
Ri
-
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Br.
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er Str.
tr or
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Spad.
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Mo
str.
Marie astr.
Burgstr.
alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Ro eyd visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to nd
Str berg
c
A.
Platz U
L
htstr
strsen eme fe
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rl- K y u
Scholl-
U Alexanderplatz arl-
er-
s
. - P
A.
Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof
r S s-
au
KaFernsehturm .
.
tr.
Str.
nberg
rge ch
Ku
Museums
Fri
Friedrichstr.
Str
S U Jac U Schillingstr.
Planc
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Sp
pfe
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a m m er May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into str . Ma airport, now a wonderful park.
str.
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str.
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St r
Fr
u e r rgen - str. o d s rx-
Lichte
tr.
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str
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Palis
ers
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Ale
a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
en
.
tr.
ue
un
Au
eB Strausberger Platz str.
r
tr.
xand
Dom
Kreuzberg is aMITTE
perfectly safe district to wander through, and Rotes zins lum
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
str.
tr.
Str
str.
ns a
Litt
ee g e n U
roth a
Glinka-
K
Gr
Mittel- str
. Rathaus M str. a rl -M Weidenw
.
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ens
erstr.
r
tr.
st tr.
str.
gs
u e
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r.
tha Nikolaiviertel air
tr.
Volt Sin
St
Schloß-
r.
illin
U Weberw
str.
Ra ger
Krautst
U
Oberwall
Koppen-
den
Unter den Lin along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
ten erstr.
platz s
Charlotten-
Andreas
r.
Sch
ger
Friedrichstr.
platz
elmst
er- Stral
Wesrdtr.
H.-Jada
ne
S
m
lln
ber
Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags. Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
am
Kommu
Br
U
Str.
Wa
r.
Ma
nd
ch e d u fer H Wa tr.
Franzö sis R o l a n
Jannowitzbrücke olzma lnerst
l
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to
e
hle
rch
tstr.
Oberwall
Kurstr
L ic h
St
Jägerstr.
Mü
lew
r.
S Rü
üd
ust tr.
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
Krau
café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
str.
Jäger- str. Gendarmen-
Glinkastr.
de
ers
Maue
skis
.
ial r.
str.
pen
markt Taubenstr. t rsd
Fis
lls
tr.
r.
n-
r
Wa Langestr. or f
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into
ise
kenst
Tauben- Stadtmitte
tr.
U Hausvogteiplatz
Kop
ch
Kolmar
Markgrafen-
straude
er
Wilh
rstr.
N K k
str. Runge- St Wede
eri
wa ie urs
Par
Mohren- U
str.
l d t st r. W
in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, l r. Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street
Ho
str. er-
ns
U Mohrenstr. U r.
.
str. ma rie
rtr
Brüc
str.
Märkisches Museum
Andreas
elms
el
Ka ze
lz
-Str.
er
. r
Ge
str. s tr k r n
Kronen
the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly Wall Jak tr.
o sb tst
art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Ostbahnhof ree er
ed
Mohrenstr. Spittelmarkt U
Roß
Ne str.
r. ue r. Am
Leipziger St
Wr
hstr.
Se
tr.
Ne Köp Os S ie
ß
ue
Stra
er Leipziger Str. lstr. bstHeinrich-Heine-Str. U Str
lkirc
He
r. lau
tr.
Krausenst o
Friedrich-
An Str. er P f
ls
ko
hae
Ja
r.
Grü eue
K om ne
str. tr.
Sch latz
nst
Str.
uer
Schützenstr. FRIEDRICHSHAIN
te
Mic
ns
ring
í Museum ma mid
N
Al
Fo
tstr.
nda t
s
r str.
-
Platz . r
l-Sp
n
nie amm
eine
Checkpoint me
Zimmerstr.
lber
mm
Seb
Charlie rb
Axe
ten
An
G H I
tha eld
tr. or
h-H
ederkirchners
Ada
nda
ast
ne Melc de
s
Be Eng
.
. tsc
Str
der Du K r
ian
Sta
r bor di- .
Mü
me Ru s ö
nric
For Kochstr. t r.
Wilh
Ora pe
ck-
str.
lls
hle
Markgrafenstr.
r e str.
ch
Charlottenstr.
Hei
rna
Kochstr. U str. ld amm e r
rei
n
O2 World
Dresd
elms
-Ha
Beth Str. e
be
an
lter
m
a anie
ns
rst
M.
h
Friedrichstr.
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Restaurants & Cafés PAGODE
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in town.
GERMAN It feels crowded, steamy
ALTES ZOLLHAUS and noisy, but that’s just
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs part of the authentic self-
house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a service atmosphere; wait
calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open
featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown
sauce and compotes.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s
MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes- seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße
TUGBW 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €. VBS
ASIAN
CHAN KIMCHI PRINCESS
A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, clean- Though this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant, Kimchi
cut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the
Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring first one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to
too.QH‑5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU find a free table in the evening.QH‑4, Skalitzer Straße 36,
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chan- Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
berlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€.
€€. UNGBSW TUGBSW
THAIRESTAURANT
KINNAREE THAI
Named after a mythological creature representing female
beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable Thai
restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken skewers
in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps and
bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines too.
QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99, www.
kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00–23:00.
SAROD’S
Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on
the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast
rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines
too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße,
tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW
AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
Open daily 12:00-24:00 the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg,
Sundays from 14:00 MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS
Friesenstraße 22 JOLESCH
tel. 69 50 73 33 Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of
www.sarods.de Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to
50 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Kreuzberg
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like
goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH‑4,
Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves a
fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope), amongst
seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes with
Fantastic Berliner Currywurst,
roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple,
while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks
quality organic and vegan snacks,
a historic apartment complex for Prussian officers.QF‑5,
Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
and a range of hot chili sauces.
tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de.
Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€. TGBSW
SWERA
Right on Kreuzberg’s popular Bergmannstrasse, Swera is ITALIAN
an authentic Indian restaurant with a range of dishes from CALIGARI
the subcontinent, including many vegetarian and vegan A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez
options. On weekdays, there’s a filling business lunch neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta,
offer from €4,50 including a wide range of curries. Swera soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club
also doubles as a cocktail bar, serving exotic drinks till nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could
late at night; arrive in time for happy hour for good deals. happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64
QBergmannstr. 103, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
tel. +49 30 61 20 33 01, res.swera@gmx.de, www.swera.
de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
INTERNATIONAL adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian
ANKERKLAUSE restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great
The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo
come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon.
how peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can co- QH‑4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
exist. On a good day, the French toast with fruit can Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.
come out looking like it’s auditioning for the Waldorf- de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. TUNGBSW
Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will tide you
over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104, GORGONZOLA CLUB
Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49, An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:00- carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green
04:00. €. TUNGB outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
52 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Kreuzberg
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed
additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Don’t miss the
cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4, sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 88,
Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88,
tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open info@vicolo-bergmann.de, www.vicolo-bergmann.de.
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
OSTERIA N°1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a JAPANESE
fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive RICE UP
trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn station
different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. sells delicious organic bento box take-away meals,
Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various fillings: vegan,
sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. veg, fish or chicken. There’s coffee, chai, lemonade and
Choose from six different lunch menus from €7.QF‑5, smoothies too. Also in Mitte, at Friedrichstraße 114.QH‑5,
Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, Kottbusser Damm (Schönleinstraße U-Bahn station),
tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 151 50 10 13
- 01:00. €€. B 88, www.rice-up.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00.
Closed Sun. €. S
SALE E TABACCHI
This attractive restaurant with a nice garden and real Italian
waiters is a good option near Checkpoint Charlie, and is BEER GARDENS
not far from the Jewish Museum either. There’s a good- DAS EDELWEISS
value lunch on weekdays, plus a wide range of imaginative The goods platform of the old Görlitzer Bahnhof train
pasta, meat and fish dishes.QF‑4, Rudi-Dutschke-Str. station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the
25, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 252 11 55, Edelweiss restaurant and café. There’s all-day breakfast,
reservierung@sale-e-tabacchi.de, www.sale-e-tabacchi. great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products,
de. Open 10:00 - 23:30. €€-€€€. TGBSW drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. It’s especially
well-positioned for people-watching; Görlitzer Park
TRENTASEI attracts Berlin’s most varied crowd.QH‑5, Görlitzerstraße
Try home-made tortellini, regional ingredients, Italian 1-3 (Görlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
wines and fresh fish specialities at Trentasei, referring to tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open
the ‘36’ nickname for this part of the district. The warmly-lit 09:30-02:00. €€. TUEBW
interior has a cabin feel, with plenty of brick and wood,
plus old-fashioned chairs around the tables.QSkalitzer GOLGATHA
Str. 34, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 69 50 69 30, info@ The most gruesome end you’ll meet at this Biergarten at the
trentasei.de, www.trentasei.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching
Sun 16:00 - 01:00. their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the table-
football and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a
VICOLO BERGMANN view of the playground and football field. DJ music begins
Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance floor.QF‑5,
sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and Katzbachstraße (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der
vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.
or the meat and fish dishes, and there’s home-made bread de. Open from 10:00. €. TUBSW
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU:
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an ISA GENZKEN
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
for the stage area.QH‑5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
JAZZ CLUBS
YORCKSCHLÖSSCHEN
This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century,
gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole
and now a hub of local social life. There’s a busy bar that
features regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional
jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Concerts take place
on Wed, Fri and Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here Nefertiti, 2014
is very nicely priced.QF‑5, Yorckstraße 15, Kreuzberg, Courtesy Galerie Buchholz, Köln/Berlin/New York, David Zwirner, New York/
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www. London und Hauser & Wirth; © Isa Genzken, VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2016,
yorckschloesschen.de. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - photo: Gert Jan van Rooi
03:00. €€. TEBSW
German artist Isa Genzken (born 1948) is one of the
Sightseeing most remarkable and radical artists of our time and
her diverse works represent one of the most important
contemporary stances of our time. The new “Make
MUSEUMS Yourself Pretty!” exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM hall presents her early films, drawings, ellipsoids and
One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable concrete sculptures to complex collages and everyday
by the Douglas C‑47 plane suspended above the main items integrated into montages. Isa Genzken risked
building. The huge complex set in and around an old it all in her quest for artistic regeneration and in her
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, radical manner she develops diverse works, which are
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there concerned with the topic of beauty in the sense of the
are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum essential and absolute.
science centre for children too.QF‑4, Trebbiner Straße 9 April until 26 June, Martin-Gropius-Bau,
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. www.gropiusbau.de.
Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket April - May 2016 55
Kreuzberg
The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division VIKTORIAPARK
of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements. Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the
Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum. corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an
de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €12,50/9,50. eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th
century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between
JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past
ways in which German life and Jewish history are a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha
intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a
contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet
the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF‑4, and bleat.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU
Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. Mehringdamm.
+49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 -
20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special
exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.
Shopping
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU BOOKS
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this BUCHHANDLUNG MORITZPLATZ
is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ A good selection of quality books on Berlin, literature, art
Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts and architecture. The wonderful Aufbau Haus also has
and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts artist’s equipment and a café.QG‑4, Prinzenstraße 85
excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David Bowie. (Aufbau Haus), Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 61 67 52 70, www.
QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Pots- buchhandlung-moritzplatz.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
damer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
Anzeige
There’s in your
a story pocketcorner
on every 2011.indd 1 though you’ll need
in Berlin, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on 16.02.15 08:52
or hop-off
a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking
are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.
join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES
Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
BERLIN CITY TOUR Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at
red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14, some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner
INBERLIN TOURS
WALKING & CYCLING TOURS Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) you’ll Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed
know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffiti and stencil times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de,
the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16.
resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, fuzzy underbelly on
a variety of walks; there are also free short walks (daily at INSIDER TOURS
11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and Insider’s enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
an ‘anti-pubcrawl’.QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
819 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20. Coffee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, €12/10). Other
tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
ANITA SIKORA’S BERLIN WALKS Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG‑3, MS Hackescher
The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora offer a wide Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter Benjamin
themed tours, walks around the Pankow district, to the Wall’s ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
course through the industrial ‘Fireland’ district. Join a regular In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’
group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49 176 68 60 16 63, with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
anitaeva75@gmail.com, www.anita-sikora.com. Tours €9. club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer
Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To
BERLIN LOCALS Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour through
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by limo, Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is spiced up with
lead by local German historians who can often relate historical quotes and references to notorious 1920s party-goers like Anita
events to their family’s personal experience. Tour themes Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD‑4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz,
range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich to street art, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, brendan@10777tours.com, www.
railways and architecture. The guides are also licenced for cabaret-berlin.com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand.
Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are in English or Book ahead. Tickets €12.
German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@berlinlocals.com,
www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per hour, €250 per day. ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
BREWER’S BERLIN Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
(13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the city. Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49
Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20). The 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10.
meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice cream
shop near Friedrichstraße station; no bookings are required. SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS
QF‑3, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 177 388 15 37, The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ offers quirky cultural-
www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets €15/12. historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s most
fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Berlin, a walk
CITY SEGWAY TOURS on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along the Wall, down
Hop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after a short lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through Kaiser Wilhelm’s
driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the four-hour general Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.com/tours. Tickets €15.
tours (10:00 and 15:00, €67), or the shorter afternoon tour
(15:00, €43). Drivers license required.QG‑3, Panoramastraße
1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, RIVER CRUISES
berlin@citysegwaytours.com, www.citysegwaytours.com. MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on Berlin’s
FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar from 1930, or
Grab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin through rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950 in
town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour (11:00, from which you’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a flowing
May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu, Sat at 10:30), scarf. In winter, rent a ship for a dinner cruise on the Spree with
the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at 10:30) and the Raw friends.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de.
58 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
River tours
After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border
region to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before
disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy
passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of
the Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government
district and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the
Spree is diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has
more bridges than Venice or Amsterdam.
Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the
boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstraße,
Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt
in the park. The 3.5-hour Brücke (bridges) tours cruise past
all the city centre sights, down Landwehrkanal and past the
beautiful Oberbaumbrücke. Here we list your options with CHARTERTRIPS ON
English narration. Sail away. HISTORICAL BOATS
... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with
Aphrodite or Oskar
10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36
Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60
www.schiffskontor.de
MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on
Berlin’s waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar
from 1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink
beauty from 1950 in which you’ll look dashing with Pocket-Guide-60x90-E 1 30.05.12 11:34
APP
dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246
47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de.
REEDEREI RIEDEL
Riedel’s panorama ships offer 1-2 hour Stadtkernfahrt
city centre tours up to 20 times per day, departing from
near Hauptbahnhof, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt and
Märkisches Ufer. The 1-3 hour Spreefahrt tour goes around
all the main sights. The 2-3.5 hour Brückenfahrt tour sails
several times daily from Märkisches Ufer. There’s an additional
evening cruise.QE‑3, Willy-Brandt-Straße (Ludwig-Erhard-
Ufer jetty), Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 693
46 46, www.reederei-riedel.de. Tickets €10-20/5-10.
REEDEREI WINKLER
Winkler’s one-hour Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to
10 times daily from beside Friedrichstraße station. The
3-3.5 hour Spreefahrt river tours from Schlossbrücke in
Charlottenburg take in the river beyond the city centre
sights. There are evening departures too, and check
the website for the special culinary and party cruises.
QF‑3, Reichstagufer jetty, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 349 95 95, www.
reedereiwinkler.de. Tickets: Stadtrundfahrt
€12,50/10-11,50, Spreefahrt €19-21,50/17-19,50.
USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3, GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.gls-
+49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de. german-courses.de.
Ackerstraße F/G‑2 Dorotheenstraße F‑3 Kl. Hamburger Straße F‑2 Motzstraße C/D‑4/5 Schönleinstraße H‑5
Adalbertstraße H‑4 Dresdener Straße G‑4 Kleiststraße D/E‑4 Mühlendamm G‑3 Schumannstraße F‑3
Admiralstraße G/H‑5 Dunckerstraße H‑1 Knaackstraße H‑2 Mühlenstraße H/I‑4 Seydelstraße F‑4
Albrechtstraße F‑3 Ebertstraße F‑3 Knesebeckstraße C‑4 Mulackstraße G‑2 Simon-Dach-Straße I‑4
Alexanderplatz G‑3 Engeldamm H‑4 Kochstraße F‑4 Museumsinsel F‑3 Skalitzer Straße G‑4/I‑4
Alexanderstraße G‑3 Erkelenzdamm F‑4 Kollwitzplatz H‑2 Muskauer Straße H‑4 Sophienstraße G‑2/3
Alexanderufer F‑2/3 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C‑3 Kollwitzstraße G/H‑2 Niederkirchnerstraße F‑4 Spandauer Damm A/B‑3
Alexandrinenstraße F‑4 Fasanenstraße C‑4/5 Konstanzer Straße B‑4/5 Niederwallstraße F‑3 Spandauer Straße G‑3
Alt-Moabit C‑3/E‑3 Fehrbelliner Straße G‑2 Köpenicker Straße H/I‑4 Nollendorfstraße D/E‑5 Sredzkistraße H‑2
Alte Jakobstraße F‑4 Fischerinsel G‑3 Kottbusser Damm H‑5 Oberbaumstraße I‑4 Stralauer Allee I‑4
Alte Schönhauser Straße G‑2 Französische Straße F‑3 Kottbusser Straße H‑5 Olivaer Platz B‑4 Stralauer Platz H‑4
Altonaer Straße D‑3 Friedensstraße H‑2/3 Krausnickstraße G‑3 Oranienburger Straße F/G‑2/3 Stralauer Straße G‑3
Am Friedrichshain H‑2 Friedrichstraße F‑3/4 Kreuzbergstraße F‑5 Oranienplatz F‑4 Straßburger Straße G‑2
Am Karlsbad F‑4 Gartenstraße F‑1/2 Kurfürstendamm A‑5/C‑4 Oranienstraße F/G‑4 Straße der Pariser Kommune I‑3/4
Am Kupfergraben F‑3 Gendarmenmarkt F‑3 Kurfürstenstraße D/E‑4 Otto-Braun-Straße G/H‑3 Straße des-17. Juni C/E‑3
Am Ostbahnhof H‑4 Georgenkirchstraße H‑2/3 Landsberger Allee H/I‑2 Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C‑3 Stresemannstraße F‑4
Anhalter Straße F‑4 Georgenstraße F‑3 Lausitzer Straße H‑4/5 Pappelallee G/H‑1 Südstern G‑5
Arndtstraße F‑5 Gertraudenstraße G‑3 Legiendamm H‑4 Pariser Platz F‑3 Tauentzienstraße D‑4
Augsburger Straße C/D‑4 Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F‑3 Leipziger Platz F‑4 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H‑5 Tieckstraße F‑2
Auguststraße F/G‑2 Gipsstraße G‑2 Leipziger Straße F/G‑4 Perleberger Straße D/E‑2 Tiergartenstraße D/E‑4
Axel-Springer-Straße F‑4 Gitschiner Straße F‑4 Leuschnerdamm H‑4 Platz der Vereinten Nationen H‑3 Torstraße F/G‑2
Barnimstraße H‑2/3 Glinkastraße F‑3 Lindenstraße F/G‑4 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F‑2 Tucholsky-Straße F‑3
Baruther Straße F‑5 Gneisenaustraße F/G‑5 Linienstraße F/G‑2 Potsdamer Platz E‑4 Turmstraße C/D‑2
Bayerischer Platz D‑5 Görlitzer Straße H/I‑4/5 Lobeckstraße F‑4 Potsdamer Straße E‑4/5 Uhlandstraße C‑4/5
Bebelplatz F‑3 Görlitzer Ufer I‑5 Luisenstraße F‑2/3 Prenzlauer Allee H‑1/2 Unter den Linden F‑3
Behrenstraße F‑3 Gormannstraße G‑2 Lützowufer D/E‑4 Prinzenstraße F‑4 Urbanstraße G/H‑5
Belforter Straße G/H‑2 Greifswalder Straße H/I‑1/2 Manteuffelstraße H‑4/5 Pücklerstraße H‑4 Veteranenstraße G‑2
Bergmannstraße F/G‑5 Grolmannstraße C‑4 Marburger Straße D‑4 Puschkinallee I‑5 Voßstraße F‑4
Bernauer Straße F/G‑1/2 Großbeerenstraße F‑5 Mariannenplatz H‑4 Quedlinburger Straße B‑3 Wadzeckstraße G/H‑3
Bethaniendamm H‑4 Große Hamburger Straße G‑2/3 Marienstraße F‑3 Rathausstraße G‑3 Waldemarstraße H‑4
Beusselstraße C‑2 Gruner Straße G‑3 Markgrafenstraße F‑3/4 Reichenberger Straße G‑4/I‑5 Wallstraße F/G‑4
Bismarckstraße B/C‑3/4 Hallesches Ufer F‑4 Martin-Luther-Straße D‑4/6 Reichpietschufer E‑4 Warschauer Platz I‑4
Bleibtreustraße C‑4 Hardenbergplatz C‑4 Matthäikirchstraße E‑4 Reichstagufer F‑3 Warschauer Straße I‑3/4
Blücherstraße F/G‑5 Heidestraße E‑2 Mauerstraße F‑3/4 Reinhardtstraße F‑3 Wassertorplatz F‑4
Bodestraße F‑3 Heinrich-Heine-Straße F‑4 Maybachufer H‑5 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G‑2 Weinbergsweg G‑2
Bötzowstraße H/I‑2 Heinrichplatz H‑4 Mehringdamm F‑5 Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G‑2/3 Weinstraße H‑2/3
Brandenburger Tor F‑3 Hohenstaufenstraße D‑5 Mehringplatz F‑4 Rosenthaler Straße G‑2/3 Werderstraße F‑3
Breitscheidplatz C‑4 Immanuelkirchstraße H‑2 Meinekestraße C‑4 Rykestraße H‑2 Wiener Straße H/I‑4/5
Brückenstraße H‑3/4 Invalidenstraße E‑3/G‑2 Melchiorstraße H‑4 Saarbrücker Straße G‑2 Wilhelmstraße F‑3/4
Brunnenstraße F/G‑1/2 Johannisstraße F‑3 Metzer Straße G/H‑2 Savignyplatz C‑4 Winterfeldtplatz D‑5
Bülowstraße E‑4/5 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E‑3 Mittelstraße F‑3 Schiffbauerdamm F‑3 Winterfeldtstraße D/E‑5
Bundesallee C‑4/6 Kaiserdamm A/B‑4 Möckernstraße F‑4/5 Schloßplatz F‑3 Wörther Straße G/H‑2
Charlottenstraße F‑3/4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C‑2 Mohrenstraße F‑3 Schloßstraße B‑3 Yorckstraße E/F‑5
Chausseestraße F‑2 Kantstraße B/C‑4 Molkenmarkt G‑3 Schlüterstraße C‑4 Zimmerstraße F‑4
Choriner Straße G‑2 Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G‑3 Mollstraße H‑2/3 Schöneberger Straße F‑4 Zinnowitzer Straße F‑2
Christinenstraße G‑2 Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I‑3 Mommsenstraße B/C‑4 Schöneberger Ufer E‑4 Zionskirchstraße G‑2
Danziger Straße G‑1/I‑2 Kastanienallee G‑2 Monbijoustraße F‑3 Schönhauser Allee G‑1/2 Zossener Straße F‑5
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Index
Aapka 23, 51 Eastwood Berlin-Mitte 24 Komische Oper 12 Salon Schmück 54
Adlon Kempinski 30 Einhorn 35 Konnopke's Imbiß 45 Samowar 36
Admiralspalast 12 El Dorado 36 Konzept86 56 San Diego Steakhouse 42
Adria 14 Ellington Hotel 40 Konzerthaus Berlin 12 Santiago 46
Aigner 22 English Theatre Berlin 13 Kookaburra Comedy Club 14 Sarod's 50
Alexa Centre 29 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 24 Kuchenkaiser 54 Savoy Berlin 40
Alliiertenmuseum 39 Eventim 12 Kulturbrauerei 47 Schall und Rauch 46
Alpenstueck 20 Facil 22 La Forchetta 36 Schaubühne 14
Alte Nationalgalerie 26 Fat Tire Bike Tours 58 Le Petit Royal 35 Schloss Charlottenburg 38
Alternative Berlin Tours 58 Fernsehturm 29 Lutter & Wegner 22 Schneeweiß 41
Altes Museum 26 First Floor 34 Macondo 42 Schnitzelei 34
Altes Zollhaus 49 Fischers Fritz 22 Mandala 31 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33
Amar 52 Fleischlust 45 Markthalle IX 56 Schwarzwaldstuben 20
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 58 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 47 Marooush 36 Shakespeare & Sons 47
Ankerklause 52 Francucci's 36 Marriott 30 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 58
Anna Blume 46 Französischer Dom 27 Martin-Gropius-Bau 56 SO36 55
April 33 Freischwimmer 54 Matrix 42 Soda Club 46
Aufsturz 24 Frey Wille 29 Mauerpark 47 Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm 40
August Fengler 46 Friedrichstadt-Palast 13 Maximilians 20 Sophieneck 23
Austria 50 Führerbunker 27 Mein Haus am See 24 Spielbank Berlin 22
Babylon Mitte 14 Galander 54 Memorial to the Murdered Jews Spindler 51
Barcomi's Deli 23 Game Science Center 55 of Europe 27 Sputnik 14
Berghain 42 Geburtstagsklub 46 MeMu Menschen Museum 28 Staatsoper im Schillertheater 12
Bergmann Curry 51 Gedächtniskirche 38 Metzer Eck 45 Ständige Vertretung 20
Berlin, Berlin 40 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 28 Milchbar 54 Stasi Museum 43
Berlin City Tour 57 Gemäldegalerie 28 Monsieur Vuong 21 Stasi Prison 43
Berliner Dom 27 Glory Duck 42 MS Schiffskontor 58, 59 Suksan 34
Berlinische Galerie 55 Glück To Go 51 Museum für Asiatische Kunst 39 Sushi Circle 23
Berlin Locals 58 Golgatha 53 Museum für Film und Fernsehen Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 46
Berlin Plaza 40 Gorgonzola Club 52 29 Swera 52
Black Box Cold War 27 Grand Hotel Esplanade 40 Museum für Naturkunde 29 Swissôtel Berlin 40
Blue Man Group 12 Green Door 37 Mutter Hoppe 20 Sylter Hof 40
Borchardt 22 Grenander Morning Glory 37 Neues Museum 26 tausche Taschen 47
Brandenburger Tor 25 Grüner Salon 24 Neue Synagoge 25 Tempelhofer Freiheit 56
Brecht Keller 22 Gudrun Sjödén 30 Nikolaiviertel 26 The Digital Eatery 24
Brewer's Berlin 58 Gugelhof 45 Nola's am Weinberg 23 The Harp 38
Bröhan Museum 39 Habermeyer 42 Olympic Stadium 38 The Wall Museum 43
Buchhandlung Moritzplatz 56 Hackesche Höfe 14 Original Berlin Walks 58 Tiergarten 39
Café am Engelbecken 54 Halle Tanzbühne 14 Osteria N°1 53 Tipi am Kanzleramt 13
Café am Neuen See 36 Hamburger Bahnhof 28 Ottenthal 34 Topographie des Terrors 56
Café im Literaturhaus 36 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 55 Pagode 49 Traube 23
Cafe Kalwil 36 Hefner 37 Palace 40 Trentasei 53
Café Rix 54 Hekticket 12 Panorama Café 21 Union Jack 38
Caligari 52 Hilton 30 Panoramapunkt 29 Van Long 21
Central Kino 14 Hinterm Horizont 13 Papagena 12 Van Loon 52
Chan 49 Honigmond & Garden Hotels 31 Paris-Moskau 22 VAU 22
Cicciolina 52 Hoppetosse 52 Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz 31 Vicolo Bergmann 53
CineStar IMAX & Original 14 Hotel de Rome 30 Pergamon Museum 26 Viktoriapark 56
City Circle Buses 57 Hugos 34 Pizzeria i Due Forni 46 VOX 23
City Segway Tours 58 InBerlin Tours 58 Postbahnhof Club 42 Waldorf Astoria 40
C/O Berlin 39 Insider Tours 58 Potsdamer Platz 25 Wall Panorama 29
Cocolo 23 InterContinental 39 Precise Myer's 44 Watergate 55
Computerspielemuseum 43 Isherwood's Neighbourhood Quatsch Comedy Club 14 Week-End Club 24
Crack Bellmer 42 Tour 58 Reederei Riedel 59 Weihenstephaner 21
Cupcake Berlin 42 Jolesch 50 Reederei Winkler 59 Weinstein 46
Curry 36 51 Jolly 21 Reichstag 26 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 52
Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28 Joseph Roth Diele 20 Reingold 24 Westin Grand 31
Das Edelweiss 53 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 56 Reinhard's 23 Wild at Heart 55
Das Stue 39 Junction Bar 54 Renger-Patzsch 33 Wintergarten Variété 13
DDR Museum 28 Käfer Dachgarten 21 Restaurant Schlossgarten 33 Wohnzimmer 46
Deutsche Oper Berlin 12, 16 Kaffee Burger 24 Restauration 1840 20 Würgeengel 54
Deutscher Dom 27 Kamala 21 Restauration 1900 45 Yorckschlösschen 55
Deutsches Currywurst Museum Kaufbar 42 Rice Up 53 Yosoy Tapas-Bar 23
27 Kempinski Bristol 39 Riehmers 51 Zillemarkt 34
Deutsches Historisches Museum Keule 41 Ritter Sport ChocoWorld 30 Zille-Stube 21
28 Kilkenny Irish Pub 25 Roses 54 Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Deutsches Technikmuseum 55 Kimchi Princess 49 Roter Salon 24 Mietshaus 47
Diekmann 35 Kim Qui 50 Rotisserie Weingrün 20 Zum Nussbaum 21
Die Schule 45 Kinnaree Thai 50 Sachiko Sushi 36 Zur Letzten Instanz 21
Dressler 35 Knese 33 Sage Restaurant 52 Zwiebelfisch 37
Duke 35 Koka 36 12 Sale e Tabacchi 53 Zwölf Apostel 36
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