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    Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison

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    The Recipe Club
    In her latest cookbook, Deborah Madison, America's leading authority on vegetarian cooking and author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, reveals the surprising relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs within the same botanical families, and how understanding these connections can help home cooks see everyday vegetables in new light. For over three decades, Deborah Madison has been at the vanguard of the vegetarian cooking movement, authoring classic books on the subject and emboldening millions of readers to cook simple, elegant, plant-based food. This groundbreaking new cookbook is Madison’s crowning achievement: a celebration of the diversity of the plant kingdom, and an exploration of the fascinating relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, herbs, and familiar wild plants within the same botanical families. Destined to become the new standard reference for cooking vegetables, Vegetable Literacy shows cooks that, because of their shared characteristics, vegetables within the same family can be used interchangeably in cooking. It presents an entirely new way of looking at vegetables, drawing on Madison’s deep knowledge of cooking, gardening, and botany. For example, knowing that dill, chervil, cumin, parsley, coriander, anise, lovage, and caraway come from the umbellifer family makes it clear why they’re such good matches for carrots, also a member of that family. With more than 300 classic and exquisitely simple recipes, Madison brings this wealth of information together in dishes that highlight a world of complementary flavors. Griddled Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise, Tomato Soup and Cilantro with Black Quinoa, Tuscan Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing, Kohlrabi Slaw with Frizzy Mustard Greens, and Fresh Peas with Sage on Baked Ricotta showcase combinations that are simultaneously familiar and revelatory. Inspiring improvisation in the kitchen and curiosity in the garden, Vegetable Literacy—an unparalleled look at culinary vegetables and plants—will forever change the way we eat and cook. Recipes in this excerpt include: Wilted Red Cabbage with Mint and Goat Feta Tahini-yogurt sauce Griddled Scallop Squash Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon Peanut Sauce Made with Whole Peanuts Peanut Butter Cookies Studded with Salted Roasted Peanuts For more information, visit crownpublishing.com

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    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison

    Uploaded by

    The Recipe Club
    14K views12 pages
    In her latest cookbook, Deborah Madison, America's leading authority on vegetarian cooking and author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, reveals the surprising relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs within the same botanical families, and how understanding these connections can help home cooks see everyday vegetables in new light. For over three decades, Deborah Madison has been at the vanguard of the vegetarian cooking movement, authoring classic books on the subject and emboldening millions of readers to cook simple, elegant, plant-based food. This groundbreaking new cookbook is Madison’s crowning achievement: a celebration of the diversity of the plant kingdom, and an exploration of the fascinating relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, herbs, and familiar wild plants within the same botanical families. Destined to become the new standard reference for cooking vegetables, Vegetable Literacy shows cooks that, because of their shared characteristics, vegetables within the same family can be used interchangeably in cooking. It presents an entirely new way of looking at vegetables, drawing on Madison’s deep knowledge of cooking, gardening, and botany. For example, knowing that dill, chervil, cumin, parsley, coriander, anise, lovage, and caraway come from the umbellifer family makes it clear why they’re such good matches for carrots, also a member of that family. With more than 300 classic and exquisitely simple recipes, Madison brings this wealth of information together in dishes that highlight a world of complementary flavors. Griddled Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise, Tomato Soup and Cilantro with Black Quinoa, Tuscan Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing, Kohlrabi Slaw with Frizzy Mustard Greens, and Fresh Peas with Sage on Baked Ricotta showcase combinations that are simultaneously familiar and revelatory. Inspiring improvisation in the kitchen and curiosity in the garden, Vegetable Literacy—an unparalleled look at culinary vegetables and plants—will forever change the way we eat and cook. Recipes in this excerpt include: Wilted Red Cabbage with Mint and Goat Feta Tahini-yogurt sauce Griddled Scallop Squash Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon Peanut Sauce Made with Whole Peanuts Peanut Butter Cookies Studded with Salted Roasted Peanuts For more information, visit crownpublishing.com

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    In her latest cookbook, Deborah Madison, America's leading authority on vegetarian cooking and author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, reveals the surprising relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs within the same botanical families, and how understanding these connections can help home cooks see everyday vegetables in new light. For over three decades, Deborah Madison has been at the vanguard of the vegetarian cooking movement, authoring classic books on the subject and emboldening millions of readers to cook simple, elegant, plant-based food. This groundbreaking new cookbook is Madison’s crowning achievement: a celebration of the diversity of the plant kingdom, and an exploration of the fascinating relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, herbs, and familiar wild plants within the same botanical families. Destined to become the new standard reference for cooking vegetables, Vegetable Literacy shows cooks that, because of their shared characteristics, vegetables within the same family can be used interchangeably in cooking. It presents an entirely new way of looking at vegetables, drawing on Madison’s deep knowledge of cooking, gardening, and botany. For example, knowing that dill, chervil, cumin, parsley, coriander, anise, lovage, and caraway come from the umbellifer family makes it clear why they’re such good matches for carrots, also a member of that family. With more than 300 classic and exquisitely simple recipes, Madison brings this wealth of information together in dishes that highlight a world of complementary flavors. Griddled Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise, Tomato Soup and Cilantro with Black Quinoa, Tuscan Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing, Kohlrabi Slaw with Frizzy Mustard Greens, and Fresh Peas with Sage on Baked Ricotta showcase combinations that are simultaneously familiar and revelatory. Inspiring improvisation in the kitchen and curiosity in the garden, Vegetable Literacy—an unparalleled look at culinary vegetables and plants—will forever change the way we eat and cook. Recipes in this excerpt include: Wilted Red Cabbage with Mint and Goat Feta Tahini-yogurt sauce Griddled Scallop Squash Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon Peanut Sauce Made with Whole Peanuts Peanut Butter Cookies Studded with Salted Roasted Peanuts For more information, visit crownpublishing.com

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    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
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    14K views12 pages

    Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison

    Uploaded by

    The Recipe Club
    In her latest cookbook, Deborah Madison, America's leading authority on vegetarian cooking and author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, reveals the surprising relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs within the same botanical families, and how understanding these connections can help home cooks see everyday vegetables in new light. For over three decades, Deborah Madison has been at the vanguard of the vegetarian cooking movement, authoring classic books on the subject and emboldening millions of readers to cook simple, elegant, plant-based food. This groundbreaking new cookbook is Madison’s crowning achievement: a celebration of the diversity of the plant kingdom, and an exploration of the fascinating relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, herbs, and familiar wild plants within the same botanical families. Destined to become the new standard reference for cooking vegetables, Vegetable Literacy shows cooks that, because of their shared characteristics, vegetables within the same family can be used interchangeably in cooking. It presents an entirely new way of looking at vegetables, drawing on Madison’s deep knowledge of cooking, gardening, and botany. For example, knowing that dill, chervil, cumin, parsley, coriander, anise, lovage, and caraway come from the umbellifer family makes it clear why they’re such good matches for carrots, also a member of that family. With more than 300 classic and exquisitely simple recipes, Madison brings this wealth of information together in dishes that highlight a world of complementary flavors. Griddled Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise, Tomato Soup and Cilantro with Black Quinoa, Tuscan Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing, Kohlrabi Slaw with Frizzy Mustard Greens, and Fresh Peas with Sage on Baked Ricotta showcase combinations that are simultaneously familiar and revelatory. Inspiring improvisation in the kitchen and curiosity in the garden, Vegetable Literacy—an unparalleled look at culinary vegetables and plants—will forever change the way we eat and cook. Recipes in this excerpt include: Wilted Red Cabbage with Mint and Goat Feta Tahini-yogurt sauce Griddled Scallop Squash Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon Peanut Sauce Made with Whole Peanuts Peanut Butter Cookies Studded with Salted Roasted Peanuts For more information, visit crownpublishing.com

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    The document discusses different plant families and includes recipes.

    The document suggests tossing cabbage with sauces like Gorgonzola butter or seasoning it with herbs like dill.

    The document lists roasted peanuts, peanut oil, lime, garlic, tamari or soy sauce, Thai chile paste, and coconut milk as ingredients used to make peanut sauce.

    Madi_9781607741916_xp_ fm-c04_r1.

    indd 2

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    debor ah

    madison

    v e g e ta b l e l i t e r ac y

    Cooking and Gardening with Twelve Families from the


    Edible Plant Kingdom, with over 300 Deliciously Simple Recipes

    Photography by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton

    TEN SPEED PR E SS
    Berkeley

    Madi_9781607741916_xp_ fm-c04_r1.indd 3

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    contents
    Introduction ~ 1 A Few Notes about Ingredients ~ 5

    chapter one ~ The Carrot Family: Some Basic Kitchen Vegetables and a Passel of Herbs
    (Umbelliferae or Apiaceae) ~ 9
    chapter two ~ The Mint Family: Square Stems and Fragrant Leaves (Labiatae or Lamiaceae) ~ 45
    chapter three ~ The Sunflower Family: Some Rough Stuff from Out of Doors
    (Compositae or Asteraceae) ~ 59
    chapter four ~ The Knotweed Family: Three Strong Personalities (Polygonaceae) ~ 103
    chapter five ~ The Cabbage Family: The Sometimes Difficult Crucifers (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae) ~ 117
    chapter six ~ The Nightshade Family: The Sun Lovers (Solanaceae) ~ 173
    chapter seven ~ The Goosefoot and Amaranth Families: Edible Weeds, Leaves, and Seeds
    (Amaranthaceae and Chenopodiaceae) ~ 215
    chapter eight ~ The (Former) Lily Family: Onions and Asparagus (Liliaceae) ~ 243
    chapter nine ~ The Cucurbit Family: The Sensual Squashes, Melons, and Gourds (Cucurbitaceae) ~ 277
    chapter ten ~ The Grass Family: Grains and Cereals (Poaceae, formerly Gramineae) ~ 299
    chapter eleven ~ The Legume Family: Peas and Beans (Leguminosae or Fabaceae) ~ 333
    chapter twelve ~ The Morning Glory Family: The Sweet Potato (Convolvulaceae) ~ 385

    Acknowledgments ~ 391 Sources ~ 393 Bibliography ~ 395 Index ~ 396

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    With Gorgonzola Butter: Toss the cabbage with


    Gorgonzola Butter (page 155) or crumbled blue cheese.

    Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok. When hot, add the
    onion, turn to coat it with the oil, and cook for a minute to sear and soften. Add the garlic, then the cabbage,
    and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Immediately begin
    turning it in the pan to wilt it evenly. You dont want to
    fully cook it, just wilt it; two minutes should be enough
    time. Remove the pan from the heat, toss the cabbage
    with 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, then taste and
    add more if sharpness is desired. Toss with the herbs.
    Season with more salt, if needed, and plenty of pepper.
    Transfer the cabbage to a platter, mounding it in a heap,
    then shower with the crumbled goat feta. Finish with
    the extra mint leaves and serve.

    With Dill: Season the cabbage with plenty of chopped


    dill and dill seeds and slivered green onions.
    With Mustard Butter: Finish the cabbage with Mustard
    Butter with Lemon Zest and Shallot (page 132) or any
    of the other mustard-based sauces.
    With Toasted Bread Crumbs and Rosemary: Sprinkle the
    cabbage with toasted bread crumbs mixed with rosemary or another favored herb to give it crunch and
    another layer of flavor.

    Wilted Red Cabbage with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce: Make the


    salad as above, minus the goat feta, but use plenty of
    dill. Make the Tahini-Yogurt Sauce below and spoon it
    over the cabbage, or serve it on the side. Optional, but
    good if you wish to emphasize the sesame element, finish with toasted sesame seeds and a few drops roasted
    sesame oil. Dukkah is another crunchy, compatible
    option.

    Wilted Red Cabbage with


    Mint and Goat Feta
    For 2 to 4
    I prefer a lightly wilted, warm red cabbage salad to the
    same vegetable uncooked for its lush color and more
    tender texture. The thinner you slice the cabbage, the
    more tender it will be. A mandoline is a good tool to use
    here, or a very sharp knife.
    I dont think Ive made this the same way ever.
    Cabbage is so compatible with herbs and seeds of all
    kinds, from fennel greens, to fragrant dill to caraway
    seeds, lovage to marjoram, olive to sesame. Heres one
    version to start with, and another to follow. { Pictured
    opposite }

    tahini-yogurt sauce
    Makes a scant 3/4 cup
    1 clove garlic
    Sea salt
    1
    /2 cup yogurt
    3 tablespoons tahini

    2 tablespoons olive oil


    1 medium red onion, quartered through the stem end and
    thinly sliced crosswise
    1 garlic clove, finely minced
    4 cups packed very finely sliced red cabbage (a scant pound)
    Sea salt
    Juice of 1 lemon
    2 tablespoons chopped mint
    2 tablespoons chopped dill
    2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
    Freshly ground pepper
    Crumbled goat feta plus whole mint leaves, to finish

    Pound the garlic in a mortar with 1/4 teaspoon salt until


    smooth. Stir the garlic mixture into the yogurt, then stir
    in the tahini, mixing well. Taste for salt.

    122
    the cabbage family

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    Griddled Scallop Squash

    Summer Squash Tartines with


    Rosemary and Lemon

    For 1

    For 4

    Oil, salt, and pepper are all I put on this squash because
    it has such a good flavor of its own. Of course, there are
    a hundred and one seasonings that you could use with
    the squash and theyd all be good. But for starters, try it
    like this. Scallop squash are delicious grilled over charcoal as well.

    Its amazing what you can do with just one squash and
    less than five minutes. Choose the best, creamiest ricotta
    for these bites. Marjoram, dill, and basil are other good
    herb choices. { Pictured opposite }
    1 teaspoon olive oil
    1 or 2 summer squash (about 8 ounces in all), very thinly
    sliced
    Scant 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
    Grated zest of 1 lemon
    Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
    4 long pieces of baguette, sliced diagonally
    Olive oil and garlic for the bread
    1
    /2 cup ricotta cheese

    Olive oil
    1 scallop squash, 3 to 4 inches across at the widest part
    Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
    1 lemon wedge

    Brush a ridged cast-iron pan with olive oil, going over


    and between the ridges, and place over medium heat.
    While the pan is heating, which takes several minutes,
    cut the squash crosswise into slices a scant 1/2 inch thick:
    1
    /4 inch will be too thin and 1/2 inch will be a little too
    thick, so between the two is just right.

    Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.


    Add the squash, saut for 1 minute or so to warm, then
    add a splash of water and cover. Cook over medium-high
    heat until the squash is soft, about 3 minutes. Remove
    the lid, add the rosemary and lemon zest, toss it with the
    squash, and then season with salt and pepper.

    When the pan is hot, add the squash slices and cook
    without moving them for about 5 minutes. Rotate each
    piece 45 degrees and cook for another 5 minutes. Turn
    the slices over and cook on the second side the same
    way. The second side may take less time because the pan
    will have amassed more heat. When the squash is ready,
    it will look slightly translucent. Remove the slices to a
    plate and season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon
    wedge to the plate if you like a little acid, then sit down
    and enjoy some true squash flavor.

    Lightly brush the cut surface of the baguette pieces with


    olive oil, then toast until golden and crisp. While the
    bread is hot, rub the cut surfaces with the garlic. Spread
    the baguette pieces with the ricotta, then overlap the
    squash on top. Season with a bit more pepper and serve.

    With Sauces: Serve with any number of sauces, such as


    Romesco Sauce (page 186), salsas verdes of all kinds,
    Sorrel Sauce with Yogurt (page 105), and Tahini-Yogurt
    Sauce (page 122).
    In a Tortilla: Tuck the griddled squash into a soft, warm
    corn or wheat tortilla, add crumbled goat cheese,
    and drizzle with Cilantro Salsa with Basil and Mint
    (page 41).
    With Other Varieties: Try Ronde de Nice zucchini, even
    Delicata. Layer them on a platter interspersed with slivered basil leaves or chopped marjoram and dribble over
    a few drops of your favorite vinegar.

    292
    the cucurbit family

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    Peanut Sauce Made with


    Whole Peanuts

    Peanut Butter Cookies Studded


    with Salted Roasted Peanuts

    Makes about 1 cup

    Makes about 30 two-inch cookies

    Although we have good peanut butter nowfreshly


    made, organic, unadulterated with sugar and additional
    oilI prefer making a peanut sauce from roasted peanuts. Somehow, its just better. Many interesting ingredients can go into peanut sauce (see variations). In the
    end, its very much about your own tastewhether
    you lean toward the sweet, hot, or salty. Many peanut
    sauces include fish sauce and some cooks prefer to add
    granulated sugar rather than brown. Taste as you go to
    get your sauce the way you like it. Where to use it? With
    pan-seared tofu, noodles of all kinds, over rice, or with
    grilled eggplant and sweet potatos.

    These cookies, which are pretty addictive if youre a peanut butter fan, have the texture of pecan sandies, short
    and crumbly and not too sweet. Because theyre chunky
    with the additon of peanuts, they dont carry the classic
    imprint of fork tines. { Pictured opposite }
    2 cups flour such as all-purpose, spelt, or white whole wheat
    1 teaspoon baking powder
    1
    /2 teaspoon baking soda
    A scant 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
    1
    /2 cup butter, at room temperature
    2
    /3 cup smooth or chunky organic peanut butter
    1
    /4 cup roasted peanut oil or light peanut oil
    1 cup light brown sugar
    1 whole egg and 1 egg yolk, at room temperature
    2 teaspoons vanilla extract
    1
    /2 cup or more salted roasted peanuts

    1 cup roasted peanuts, preferably unsalted


    1 tablespoon roasted peanut oil or toasted sesame oil
    Grated zest and juice of 1 or 2 limes
    2 plump cloves garlic, chopped
    4 teaspoons tamari or soy sauce
    1
    /2 teaspoon prepared Thai roasted chile paste (nahm
    prik pao)
    1 tablespoon brown sugar
    1
    /2 cup coconut milk or water
    Sea salt

    Heat the oven to 350F. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper.
    Stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda,
    and salt to blend them. In a stand mixer fitted with the
    paddle attachment, beat the butter, peanut butter, and
    oil on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Blend
    in the brown sugar. Add the whole egg, egg yolk, and
    vanilla and beat until smoothly blended. Turn the speed
    to low, add the flour mixture and mix just until its well
    incorporated, then stir in the peanuts.

    Combine the peanuts, oil, lime zest and juice, garlic,


    tamari, chile paste, brown sugar, and about two-thirds
    of the coconut milk in a food processor and pulse until
    smooth. The sauce should be thick but somewhat fluid.
    If it seems too thick, add in the remaining coconut milk
    or water. Taste for heat, salt, and sugar and adjust accordingly. Store any unused sauce in the refrigerator. It will
    keep for a week.

    Scoop up heaping tablespoons of the dough and drop


    them onto the pans, spacing them about 11/2 inches
    apart.
    Bake the cookies, switching the pans between the racks
    midway through baking, until lightly browned around
    the edges, about 10 minutes. Let them cool completely
    on the pans before removing.

    With Tamarind: To sharpen the flavor of the sauce, add


    1
    /2 to 1 teaspoon tamarind paste.
    With Cilantro: Include 1 cup chopped cilantro and 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves for a greener, fresher sauce.

    With Chocolate: If youre a fan of peanut butter and


    chocolate, youve probably already thought of adding
    chunks of chocolate to the dough. A cup will be plenty.

    With Different Heat: Add 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper or


    chipotle chile powder in place of the Thai chile paste.

    348
    the legume family

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