PaintBall Sound Suppressor
PaintBall Sound Suppressor
PaintBall Sound Suppressor
Material Description:
PVC Pipe (white plastic water pipe):
PVC pipe is sold in all shapes and sizes. Most people will recognize it as the white plastic pipe that they used to install their lawn sprinklers. PVC pipe is available in several different schedules. The schedule refers to the thickness and effective pressure rating of the pipe. The most common schedule is 40. The higher the number, the thinner the pipe will be. PVC pipe can usually be purchased in lengths of between 1 to 20 feet. If you
Foam Padding:
This is the spongy, sound absorbing material which is sandwiched between the inner core and outer casing of the silencer. There are various varieties of foam available, but it will generally be cream colored. The thickness you select will probably depend on the density of the foam. Can be purchased at: Fabric stores or hobby shops.
Screen Mesh:
A screen door mesh should be wrapped around the inner core to prevent the packing from bulging through the core ports and interfering with the paintball. The type of mesh isnt really important as long as it allows sufficient air flow and prevents the packing from squeezing through. Can be purchased at: Most hardware stores.
Construction:
Step 1. Select the core Select a piece of PVC pipe to use as the inner core. For a snug fitting over-the-muzzle silencer, select a pipe with an outside diameter which is at least 1/8 larger than the outside diameter of your barrel. This will ensure that the wall of the core is thick enough at the muzzle-tosilencer junction to prevent accidental breakage. On a gun such as a PMI-1, the outside diameter of the barrel is 13/16 at the muzzle. I would therefore select a 3/4 schedule 40 PVC pipe (which actually has a 1 outside diameter.) And since the inside diameter of the 3/4 PVC is about 13/16, its ideal for Sheridan guns. Step 2. Fit the core to the barrel Since the inside diameter of the PVC pipe may not match the outside diameter of your barrel, you will have to modify the inside diameter of the PVC pipe so that it will fit snugly over the muzzle of your particular barrel. The best way to do this is usually by sanding the excess plastic away until the first inch of the pipe fits tightly onto the barrel. If you have a barrel with an outside diameter of 7/8 or 1 you may have to use the Dremel or similar tool to grind away the excess plastic. For slight changes, you can also try heating the PVC to its melting point and stretching it to fit the barrel. This, however, rarely produces good results and often creates a crooked silencer.
Outer Casing
Description:
The outer casing is what protects the silencer and keeps the packing in place. This piece is also subject to various modifications. The casing can be something as simple as a pice of ABS pipe with two end caps, to be slipped over the core for a friction fit, or a set of complex o-ring joints and threaded connections. Since the friction fit construction is the easiest design to implement, I would suggest it to any first time gunsmiths. And since you will probably not want to force the end caps off once they have been forced on, you should go ahead and paint the entire silencer after it has been completely assembled.
Construction:
Step 1. Cutting the ABS to length Calculate the length of ABS needed to connect the two end caps and cut the pipe to length. You may want to cut the pipe a little longer than necessary because its always easier to make something a little bit shorter than it is to make it a little longer. Step 2. Carving the end caps If you are simply creating friction fit end caps, then create a hole in each cap which is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the silencer core. Each cap can then be forced on and connected with the length of previously cut ABS. I have also tried to create more complex casings by altering the cap-tocore contact. By adding an 0-ring groove in both the end cap and silencer core, you may be able to create a locking connection which can be disassembled for cleaning and maintenance. This type of connection is generally much harder to achieve since it requires more precise machining than a friction fit.
Assembly
Step 1. Putting it all together Put all the pieces together and test it out. Will the opponent be able to hear your shots as youre stomping through the underbrush? Step 2. Finishing touches You may decide to add a few coats of paint to your creation after youve tested it to ensure that it is working. Im sure most hardware and paint stores can recommend an appropriate type of paint for the job. Just be sure to get something that will stick to plastic. This may involve applying a few coats of primer before applying the finishing coats. I would suggest that you do not paint the interior of the core because it is difficult to apply an even coat of paint, and the additional thickness may prevent the silencer from fitting over the barrel.