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Cuffed Shorts Original

This document provides instructions for making cuffed shorts from a linen fabric using a pattern. The shorts have hip yoke pockets, single welt back pockets, pleats in the front, a zip fly opening with an underlap, belt carriers, and a waistband. The 12 steps describe cutting out the pattern pieces, constructing the pockets, adding pleats and belt carriers, sewing the waistband, and hemming the cuffs.

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Georgiana Mihaela
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© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
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408 views4 pages

Cuffed Shorts Original

This document provides instructions for making cuffed shorts from a linen fabric using a pattern. The shorts have hip yoke pockets, single welt back pockets, pleats in the front, a zip fly opening with an underlap, belt carriers, and a waistband. The 12 steps describe cutting out the pattern pieces, constructing the pockets, adding pleats and belt carriers, sewing the waistband, and hemming the cuffs.

Uploaded by

Georgiana Mihaela
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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6/2010 Cuffed Shorts

By: burda style magazine http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/62010-cuffed-shorts


Cuffed Shorts burda style magazine patterns FAQ

Materials
Linen

Step 1 Preparation

Trace the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet. Trace marked pocket piece from piece 22 to abutting line. The stitching line at the zip fly opening on piece 21 is marked for size 34. For sizes 36 42, mark the stitching line the same distance from centre front as for size 34. The pocket lines on piece 23 are marked in full for size 34 only. Complete the lines for sizes 36 42 accordingly. Seam and hem allowances: Seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in). Turn up and hem allowance are already included on the pattern pieces. 1

Step 2 Cutting Out

Linen: 21 front trouser piece 2x 22 side hip yoke with integrated pocket piece 2x 23 back trouser piece 2x 24 front waistband 4x 25 back waistband 4x a) left underlap piece, 15 cm (6 ins) long, 6 cm (2 1/2 ins) wide, finished width 3 cm (1 1/4 ins), b) 2 welt strips (back pockets) 15 cm (6 ins) long, 5 cm (2 ins) wide (incl. allowance), c) 2 pocket pieces (back pockets), 15 cm (6 ins) wide, 13 cm (5 1/4 ins) long (incl. allowance ) d) 5 belt carriers, a total of 40 cm (16 ins) long, 3 cm (1 1/4 ins) wide (incl. allowance). Lining: 22 pocket piece 2x and also pocket piece (piece c). Interfacing: See pattern layout. Interface outer waistband pieces. Iron strips of interfacing, about 4 cm (1 5/8 ins) wide, to wrong side of back trouser pieces, over pocket markings.

Step 3 Back darts


Stitch back darts and press toward centre.

Step 4 Construct single welt pockets on back trouser pieces


Mark an abutting line for each welt, 1.5 cm (5/8 in) from welt joining line (= finished width of welt). Fold welt strips lengthwise, right side facing out, and press. Baste doubled welt strips over welt joining line so that fold edge of welt meets with abutting line and open lengthwise edges lie between pocket lines. Stitch welt in place along welt joining line. Stitch fabric pocket piece to pocket piece joining line. Slash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally toward each last stitch, not catching welts or pocket pieces. Lay each welt into pocket opening. Pull pocket piece to inside. Stitch pocket lining pieces to seam allowances of welt joining seams. Fold small triangles at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket pieces, from seam end to seam end. Trim pocket pieces even and stitch together.

Step 5 Pleats
Fold pleats in front trouser pieces in arrow direction and baste.

Step 6 Hip yoke pockets


Stitch pocket pieces right sides together with pocket opening edges of front trouser pieces. Lay pocket pieces up and stitch to seam allowances, close to seam. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at abutting lines. Stitch pocket pieces together on inside. Baste pocket pieces to wrong side of front trouser pieces, first trimming away allowance of right pocket piece along centre front.

Step 7 Side seams, and inside leg seams


Stitch side seams and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch centre front seam from slit mark to inside leg seam.

Step 8 Zip opening


Press self-facings on edges of opening to inside. Stitch on the right along centre front and on the left, 5 cm (2 ins) before centre front. Stitch zip under left edge (underlap), stitching close to teeth of zip. Pin opening closed, matching centres. Stitch free zip tape to right facing, not catching trouser piece. Baste facing in place. Topstitch opening from upper edges to 3 cm (1 1/4 ins) before the end, as marked. Fold underlap piece lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch across bottom end. Turn right side out. Lay underlap under left edge of opening and pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zip joining seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to the end, catching underlap.

Step 9 Strips for belt carriers


Neaten lengthwise edges of strip for belt carriers and press 7 mm (1/4 in) wide to wrong side. Topstitch close to edges. Cut strip into 5 equal pieces. Baste belt carriers to upper edge of shorts, placing one next to each pleat in front and next to each dart in back.

Step 10 Waistband and centre back seam


Stitch side seams on waistband pieces. Stitch outer waistband units to upper edge of shorts, leaving right end of waistband extending from centre front and stitching left end of waistband to underlap. Press seam allowances of joining seams onto waistband units. Lay inside waistband units right sides together with attached outer waistband units and pin edges together. Stitch across front ends of waistband (at centre front on the right) and along upper edges of waistband. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. In back, lay inside waistband pieces up and press seam at upper edge of waistband open, about 10 cm (4 ins) long. Stitch centre back seam on shorts and waistband. Press seam allowances open from upper edge to beginning of curve. Turn waistband right side out. Turn in inside edge of waistband in front, about 5 cm (2 ins) long, and sew in place. Then lay remaining edge flat over joining seam and baste in place. Topstitch waistband close to edges. Work buttonhole in right end of waistband.

Step 11 Belt carriers


Lay belt carriers up, turn ends in, and stitch to upper edge of waistband. Sew remaining belt carrier in place, over centre back seam.

Step 12 Turn-up
Turn trouser legs to inside on turn-up fold line and press. Machine stitch or sew in place by hand. Fold turn-ups up to abutting lines and press. Sew upper edge of each turn-up in place, loosely by hand, about 2 cm (3/4 in) below pressed fold.

6/2010 Cuffed Shorts

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