Solar Charger: A Great Kit For Self-Sufficiency
Solar Charger: A Great Kit For Self-Sufficiency
Solar Charger: A Great Kit For Self-Sufficiency
This is another kit in our self-sufficiency range. We also have a 12v fluoro inverter kit for
those who need to operate 20watt to 40watt fluorescent lamps from a 12v supply.
We will be introducing a number of kits for those who have opted to live with 12v energy.
With nearly everything electronic capable of operating from a 12v supply, there is no reason
why anyone opting to live with a low voltage supply cannot enjoy all the electronic pleasures
of those who live in the city.
Some products are not yet available for 12v operation but inverters are available from
100watts to 4kw.
The aim of this project is to cater for the other end of the range. We are looking at charging a
12v battery, using the cheapest set of solar cells and the cheapest inverter. This also means
the cheapest 12v battery - a 1amphr (1AHr) gell cell or 6v cells salvaged from old analogue
mobiles!
THE PROBLEM
The problem with charging a battery from a solar panel is the SUN! It doesn't shine all the
time and clouds get in the way! Our eyes adjust to the variations in the strength of the sun
but a solar panel behaves differently.
As soon as the sun loses its intensity, the output from a solar panel drops enormously. No
only does the output current fall, but the output voltage also decreases.
Many of the solar panels drop to below the 13.6v needed to charge a 12v battery and as
soon as this occurs, the charging current drops to ZERO. This means they become useless
as soon as the brightness of the sun goes away.
Our project cannot work miracles but it will convert voltages as low as 3.5v into 13.6v and
keep delivering a current to the battery. Obviously the current will be much lower than the
maximum, when the sun "half-shines" but the inverter will take advantage of all those hours
of half-sun.
At least you know it will be doing its best ALL THE TIME.
The other advantage of the inverter is the cost of the panel. You don't have to buy a 12v
panel. Almost any panel or set of solar cells will be suitable. You can even use a faulty 12v
panel. Sometimes a 12v panel becomes damaged or cracked due to sun, rail, heat or shock.
If one or two of the cells do not output a voltage (see below on how to fix faulty panels) the
cells can be removed (or unwired) and the gap closed up. This will lower the output voltage
(in fact it may increase the voltage - the faulty cells may have reduced the output to zero)
but the inverter will automatically adjust.
The aim of this project is to achieve a 13.6v supply at the lowest cost. That's why the project
has been released as a kit. The equivalent in made-up form is 3 times more expensive yet
doesn't have some of the features we have incorporated in our kit. We have used a more
efficient output circuit than the closest rival design and the driver transistor is the latest "low-
voltage" type. These two factors increased the efficiency by 20% over the rival.
PARALLEL OR SERIES?
One of the questions you will be asking is: Should be solar cells be connected in parallel or
series?
Most individual solar cells are made from small pieces of solar material connected together
and placed under a light-intensifying plastic cover. The output of the solar cells used in the
prototype were 0.5v and 200mA (with bright sunlight). The circuit has a minimum operating
voltage of about 1.5v so any voltage above this will produce an output. In our case the cells
should be connected in series to get the best efficiency.
9v to 12v OUTPUT
If you require 9v to 12v output, you will need to add the four voltage-regulating components
shown in the diagram below.
With the voltage-regulation components added, the circuit produces a 9v or 12v output. This
arrangement is only suitable if you have a constant, reliable, source of sun as any clouds will
reduce the output to below the regulated voltage. (If a 9v1 zener diode is fitted, the output
voltage will be 9v.) The BC 547 prevents the ZXT 851 oscillator transistor turning on when
the voltage is slightly above 12v (or 9v). The 10u on the output stores the "reference voltage"
and keeps the BC 547 turned on during the time when the output voltage is above 12v. This
effectively stops the oscillator, but as soon as the output voltage drops below 12v, the circuit
comes back into operation, "charge-pumping" the 10u on the output.
The 12v zener works like this: No voltage appears on the anode end (the end connected to
the 100R resistor) until 12v is on the cathode. Any voltage above 12v appears on the anode
and this voltage passes through the 100R to the base of the BC 547. For instance, if 12.5v is
on the cathode, 0.5v will appear on the anode. When the base sees 0.7v, the transistor turns
on, so slightly more than 12.7v is needed to turn on the transistor.
The regulation components are not really necessary as a reliable output will only be present
when strong sunlight is seen by the solar panel. For the cost of a rechargeable battery or set
of rechargeable cells, you get a much more reliable arrangement by removing the regulation
components, using the first circuit in the article, and allowing the battery to deliver the 9v or
12v. The battery appears as a HUGE electrolytic on the output, delivering a constant voltage
and is capable of delivering a high current.
OUR PROTOTYPE
Our prototype consisted of 8 solar cells charging two 6v batteries in series. These were
obtained from old analogue phones and were purchased for $5.00 each but if you want to
spend a lot more, you can get individual AA cells or a 12v jell cell.
The solar cells in our prototype are rated at 0.5v and 200mA
The array produced 3.2v @ 150mA with bright sunlight and the output of the inverter was
12.8v @ 31mA during the initial charging period. This reduced to 22mA as the battery
became charged. As more cells are added, the charging current increased. We also tried 10
cells and 12 cells and the results are shown in the table below:
Charging current
No of solar cells:
(for 12v battery):
8 cells 22mA
10 cells xxmA
12 cells yymA
WINDING THE TRANSFORMER
The primary winding consists of 45 turns of 0.7mm wire on a 10mm dia ferrite rod. Wind 40
close-wound turns on the rod then 5 spiraling turns to get back to the start. Twist the two
ends together to keep the coil in position.
The feedback winding must also be wound in the same direction if you want to keep track of
the start and finish as shown in the circuit diagram. It consists of 15 turns spiral wound so
that it takes 8 turns across the rod and 7 turns back to the start. Twist the two ends together
to keep the coil in position.
The result is called a transformer. It's a feedback or blocking oscillator transformer with a
flyback feature. The output is taken across the primary via a high-speed diode.
The oscillator will only work when the feedback winding is connected around the correct way.
The correct way is shown in the diagram, with the start of the primary and secondary as
shown in the diagram. For this to work, both windings must be wound in the same direction.
You can keep track of the start and finish of each winding or simply connect the transformer
and see if it works. If it doesn't work, reverse the feedback winding (reverse only one
winding - NOT both).
Nothing can be damaged by trying this method as the solar panel does not deliver enough
current to damage the transistor.
THE TRANSISTOR
One of the special features of this design is the driver transistor. It is one of the new style of
transistors, having a very low collector-emitter resistance (voltage drop) when saturated. It is
also capable of handling a very high current (3 amps) and peaks of 20 amps. When used in a
high-speed saturation mode such as this, the losses in the transistor are extremely small and
it does not require heat-sinking. Other transistors will work but the ZTX 851 transistor added
6mA to the output current due to its characteristics.
CONSTRUCTION
Wind the transformer as explained above and have it ready for fitting to the PC board. Fit the
other components according to the overlay on the board making sure the transistor and
diode are around the correct way. The two electrolytics must also be fitted around the correct
way.
Now comes the transformer. As we have already mentioned, the easiest way to fit the
transformer is to solder it in position and try the circuit. If it is around the wrong way, the
circuit will not produce an output. Reverse one of the windings and the job's done.
PARTS LIST
1 - 220R 1/2 resistor
1 - 470R
1 - 1k
SUMMARY
You can now see how the circuit works. It generates a voltage higher than the battery voltage
and that's how it can deliver energy to the battery. The energy comes in the form of "pulses"
and we can measure the "average" or "equivalent to DC value" on a milliamp meter (a
multimeter set to milliamps).
charging current for 10 and 12 cells to be measured and inserted into table - waiting for a
sunny day!