Cookers Service Manual
Cookers Service Manual
Cookers Service Manual
Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Mechanical Mechanical Mechanical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Electrical Mechanical Transport Transport Transport Transport Mechanical Mechanical Transport Transport Transport Transport Transport Transport Transport
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SECTION/COMPONENT Flame Oven Gas Heating Elements Flame Failure Device ( FFD ) Problems Gas Leak Gas Valve Ignition Ignition Ignition Fan Turnspit Induction hob Signal Lamp Hot Surface(Residual Heat) Indicator Timer Timer Oven Light Oven Light Hinge Hinge Knobs Hob Electrical Heating Elements Hob Hilight Heating Elements Hilight Heating Elements Cooking Cooking Oven Electrical Heating Elements Oven Elc. Heating Elements Hob Heating Elements Handle Side panels (freestanding cooker) Side panels (built-in cooker) Warmer Drawers and rails Fixed and flap Drawers Wire& Catalytic Shelves Tip-over bracket Front & rear plinth Oven door Cooktop ( gas ) Cooktop ( electrical ) Cooktop ( ceramic ) Front Panel Rear panel
FREE-STANDING
GAS&ELC ELECTRIC CERAMIC
BUILT-IN OVEN
PROBLEM(S)
Hob burners :Noisy burning /Sooting/ Yellow tip Oven/Grill burner not working/fading Oven / Hob FFD not working Gas Leak from Collector Gas valve stucking Ignitor not turning on/off Ignitor button not working Ignitor not flaming Fan not working/noisy/ hitting its cover Turnspit motor not working Hob doesnt work / Induction hob display errors Signal lamp not working / blinking Residual Heat Indicator not working Digital Timer not working/Timer buttons stucking Timer circuit stays open / closed Oven light not turning on/off Oven light button not working Cooktop lid angle less than 90/more than 100 Oven/Hob Hinge noisy Knob stays locked/broken/loose/knob gasket loose Hotplate(s) doesnt work Highlight heaters doesnt work Touch control display errors Unhomogenious cooking/ Long cooking period Appliance doesnt work at all Top/Bottom/Grill Heating Element not working Ring (Circular) Heating Element not working Regulator(s) doesnt work Oven door handle loose/broken Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Oven turning over Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change ) Damaged ( how to change )
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BUILT-IN SETS
SINGLE OVEN+HOB
GAS HOBS
GAS-ONGLASS
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IS THE GAS TYPE / PRESSURE SUITABLE AS SHOWN ON THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE?
NO
USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE. PERFORM A GAS CONVERSION IF NECESSARY. REFER TO "GAS CONVERSIONS" IN USER MANUAL
YES DO THE INJECTORS CONFORM GAS/PRESSURE VALUES INDICATED IN THE TABLE IN THE USER MANUAL?
NO
CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH CORRECT ONES. ALSO , ADJUST THE FLAMES IN THE MINIMUM POSITION FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.
REPLACE THE BURNER BODY, BURNER HEAD AND BURNER CAPS. BE SURE THEY ARE CO-CENTRIC.
YES
CORRECT THEIR POSITION. ALSO CHECK THAT : THE TOP SURFACE OF THE PAN SUPPORTS SHOULD REMAIN 16-20 mm HIGH FROM THE BURNER PORTS.
NO
IF THE PAN SUPPORT IS TOO CLOSE TO THE BURNERS OR IF THEY ARE DISTORTED, REPLACE THEM WITH NEW ONES.
ARE THE INJECTOR HOLES PARTIALLY/FULLY COVERED WITH DEBRIS, SPILLED FOOD ETC.?
YES
CHANGE THE INJECTORS ( SEE BELOW ) DO NOT TRY TO CLEAN THEM. ( WHILE CHANGING THE INJECTOR , PAY ATTENTION THAT THE EXCESS OF THE DEBRIS DOES NOT FALL INTO THE BURNER CUP HOLE. )
NO
NO
REINSTALL THE APPLIANCE ( AS INDICATED IN USER MANUAL ) THE CREEPS AND CLEARANCES IN THE USER MANUAL STATE THE OPTIMUM DISTANCES REQUIRED FOR THE SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE OF THE APPLIANCE.
YES IS THE APPLIANCE OPERATING IN A DUST ENVIRONMENT? YES DUST IN THE SURROUNDING AREA MAY RESULT IN SOOTING. THE BURNERS REQUIRE FRESH AIR FOR OPERATING.
NO
YES
NO
IS THE APPLIANCE OPERATING IN AN ENVIRONMENT WHERE IT IS SUBJECTED TO AIR CURRENTS STRONGER THAN 1m/s?
YES
THIS APPLIANCE IS DESIGNED FOR NON-PROFESSIONAL INDOOR USE. AIR CURRENTS STRONGER THAN 1m/s WILL RESULT IN INSTABILITY OF THE FLAMES.
HOW TO CHANGE HOB INJECTORS : You will need a 7mm wrench and a cross-tip (X) screwdriver. 1- Remove the pan supports, burner cap and burner head. 2- Unscrew the injectors with the wrench. 3- Screw the injectors from spare set to the relevant burners. 4- Replace the pan supports.
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IS THE GAS TYPE / PRESSURE SUITABLE AS SHOWN ON THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE?
NO
USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE. PERFORM A GAS CONVERSION IF NECESSARY. REFER TO "GAS CONVERSIONS" IN THE USER MANUAL
YES ARE THE INJECTORS CONFORMING GAS/PRESSURE INDICATED IN THE TABLE IN THE USER MANUAL?
NO
CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH CORRECT ONES. ALSO , ADJUST THE FLAMES IN THE MINIMUM POSITION FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.
Gas grill fading when you take off your hand from the button
NO
IS THE OVEN DOOR IN CORRECT POSITION FOR GRILLING ( OVEN DOOR MUST BE OPEN 15 ANGLE TO THE VERTICAL ) ?
NO
YES
IS THE GRILL HEAT COVER MOUNTED UNDER FRONT PANEL BEFORE GRILLING ?
NO
REPLACE THE GRILL HEAT COVER IN THE CORRECT POSITION ( DOOR OPENED 15 ANGLE WITH VERTICAL )
YES
NO
YES
CORRECT !
!!! FAULTY
CHECK THE FLAME STABILITY AND QUALITY : IS THE GAS TYPE / PRESSURE SUITABLE AS SHOWN ON THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE?
NO
USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE. OR CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH THE ONES SUPPLIED IN THE SPARE SET
YES
NO
YES
NO
ARE THE HOLES ON THE BURNER CRADLE BLOCKED WITH EXCESSIVE NUMBER OF PANS ETC. STORED IN THE WARMING DRAWER?
YES
THE HOLES SUPPLY THE FRESH AIR REQUIRED FOR THE OVEN BURNER. THERE MUST BE A GAP OF AIR UNDER THE BURNER CRADLE FOR SAFE OPERATION OF THE BURNER.
NO IS THE VENTURI OPENING ON THE REAR PART OF THE BURNER BLOCKED WITH MATERIALS SUCH AS INSULATION, CABLES, DIRT ETC? YES
CHECK THE REAR PART OF THE VENTURI IN CONTACT WITH THE INJECTOR HOLDER? (WE ADVISE YOU TO CHECK WITH A SMALL MIRROR)
NO
YES
CORRECT
WRONG
IS THE BURNER ASSEMBLY BRACKET ALIGNED WITH THE TOP PART OF THE CAVITY?
NO
THERE ARE TWO HOLES ON THE TOP OF CAVITY. FOR GRILL BURNER ASSEMBLY.; THE REAR HOLE IS THE CORRECT ONE.
CORRECT
WRONG
YES
FRONT
ARE THE INJECTOR HOLES/BURNER PORTS PARTIALLY/COMPLETELY BLOCKED BY DEBRIS, SPILLED FOOD ETC? CHANGE THE OVEN BURNER INJECTORS OR CLEAN THE BURNER PORTS. IF YOU OBSERVE RUST ON THE BURNER BODY, REPLACE THE BURNER WITH A NEW ONE.
YES
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CORRECT WRONG FRONT
WHEN YOU TAKE OFF THE KNOB AND PRESS THE SPINDLE WITH YOUR HAND, DOES THE FFD OPERATE CORRECTLY?
YES
Put a silicon washer inside of the knob which you see ignition problem. You can use one of the below parts. You can order them as a spare part. 42058220 KNOB FEED GASKET (SHORT) 42058221 KNOB FEED GASKET (LONG)
NO
YES
FOR HOB !
NO
THE HOB THERMOCOUPLES SHOULD BE PROPERLY ATTACHED TO THE VALVE BY COAXIAL CONNECTION
OPEN THE COOKTOP. IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH THE CONNECTION OF THE THERMOCOUPLE?
YES
FOR NON-THERMOSTATIC OVENS, THE FAST-ON TERMINAL SHOULD BE PROPERLY ATTACHED TO THE VALVE. THE EARTH LINE OF THE THERMOCOUPLE (BARE BRASS WIRE) SHOULD BE SCREWED TO ANY SUITABLE PLACE ON THE CHASIS.
NO FOR THERMOSTATIC OVENS , THE NUT SHOULD NOT BE FIXED NEITHER TOO FAST NOR TOO LOOSE. FOR BEST CONNECTION, SCREW THE NUT AS HARD AS YOU CAN WITH YOUR HAND, AND SCREW AN ADDITIONAL 1/4 TURN WITH THE WRENCH.
NO
EACH THERMOCOUPLE SHOULD BE ASSEMBLED TO ITS BURNER VALVE. (E.G. WHEN THE AUXILLIARY BURNER THERMOCOUPLE IS ATTACHED TO RAPID BURNER VALVE, BOTH AUX. AND RAPID BURNERS WILL NOT OPERATE.)
YES THE ISOLATION ON THE WIRE OF THE THERMOCOUPLE SHOULD NOT BE STRIPPED ALONG ITS LENGTH.
YES
CHANGE THE THERMOCOUPLE
FOR THERMOSTATIC OVENS, THE COPPER TUBE OF THERMOCOUPLE SHOULD NOT BE BENT SHARPLY.
CHANGE GAS VALVES ( FOR HOBS ) WHEN YOU CHANGE THE THERMOCOUPLE AND APPLY FLAME EXTERNALLY, DOES THE THERMOCOUPLE OPERATE CORRECTLY? NO CHANGE GAS VALVES ( FOR FREESTANDING COOKERS )
YES
NOT OKEY
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GAS LEAK
ARE THE GAS CONNECTION EQUIPMENT IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE NATIONAL AND LEGAL REQUIREMENTS?
NO
REPLACE THE GAS CONNECTION EQUIPMENT WITH THE CORRECT ONES. ( NEVER ATTEMPT A CONNECTION EQUIPMENT OLDER THAN 2 YEARS ) REFER TO THE "GAS CONNECTION" CHAPTER IN USER MANUAL TO LEARN YOUR LOCAL REQUIREMENTS, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL GAS DEALER.
YES
OPEN THE COOKTOP WHEN YOU APPLY SOAP WATER ON THE MANIFOLD BODY DO YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES?
YES
IF YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES ON THE VALVE OR BURNER CONNECTION NUTS ; APPLY SOME TORQUE ON THE NUTS TO FIX THEM (NOT MORE THAN 1/2 TURNS).
WHEN YOU APPLY SOAP WATER ON THE ALUMINUM GAS DELIVERY PIPES, DO YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES? (ESPECIALLY ON THE VALVE AND BURNER END OF THE PIPE) YES SEE : CHANGING GAS DELIVERY TUBES FOR OVEN
IF YOU OBSERVE THE BUBBLE ON THE PIPE ITSELF ; CHANGE THE GAS DELIVERY PIPE. NO
SEE : CHANGING GAS DELIVERY TUBES FOR HOB APPLY SOAP ON BUBBLES AROUND THE BOTTOM PART OF THE INJECTOR. TURN ON THE VALVE AND BLOCK THE INJECTOR WITH YOUR FINGER.
IF YOU SEE BUBBLES AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE INJECTOR ; FASTEN THE INJECTOR OR CHANGE IT WITH A NEW ONE
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NOTE: BEFORE REFERRING TO IGNITION PROBLEMS, PLEASE REFER TO FLAME PROBLEMS FIRST. IF THE CIRCUMSTANCES DESCRIBED IN "FLAME PROBLEMS" DO NOT MATCH YOURS, THEN REFER TO IGNITION PROBLEMS.
Ignition problems :
YES
NO IS THE ELECTRODE SURFACE COVERED WITH DEBRIS, SPILLED FOOD ETC.? NO OBSERVE THE SPARK: DOES THE SPARK OCCUR SIDEWAYS OR TOWARDS THE BASE OF THE ELECTRODE?
FOR HOBS, THE SPARK SHOULD OCCUR FROM THE ELECTRODE TIP TO THE BURNER CAP.
YES
CHANGE THE BURNER CAP FIRST, AND THEN CHANGE THE BURNER BODY.
YES FOR OVEN AND GRILL BURNERS, THE SPARK SHOULD OCCUR FROM THE ELECTRODE TIP TO THE BURNER. ) CHANGE THE OVEN BURNER.
NO
NOT OK.
IS THE TERMINAL BOX AND IGNITION BOX WIRING IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM ?
NO CORRECT THE WIRING CONNECTIONS OF TERMINAL BOX AND IGNITION BOX. Please see circuit diagrams
YES
CHECK IF THE ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES OF THE NETWORK : (VOLTAGE, FREQUENCY, CURRENT TYPE) IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SPECIFICATIONS STATED IN THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE
NO
THE SAFETY AND THE PERFORMANCE OF THE APPLIANCE CAN BE GUARANTEED ONLY WHEN THE APPLIANCE IS USED ACCORDING TO THE INFORMATION ON THE DATA PLATE.
YES
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Fan problems
REMOVE THE FAN COVER. PUSH BACK THE FAN WINGS AND REPLACE THE COVER. DOES IT STILL HIT TO COVER ?
IS THE WIRING OF FAN MOTOR CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE WIRING DIAGRAM ? YES
NO
YES
CHECK IF THE ROTOR GOT LOCKED. CORRECT THE POSITION
NO
WHEN OVEN SWITCH TURNED ON, CAN YOU MEASURE VOLTAGE AT FAN MOTOR ? YES CONTROL THE WINDINGS OF FAN MOTOR WITH OHMMETER. ARE MOTOR WINDINGS DAMAGED?
CHECK IF THE FAN MOTOR ASSEMBLY SCREWS ARE FIXED CORRECLTY. PROBLEM SOLVED ? NO CHANGE THE FAN COVER. DOES IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
NO
THE FAN SHOULD NOT HIT / OR BE LOCKED ONTO THE FAN COVER.
YES
NO
NO CHANGE THE FAN. DOES IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
Turnspit problems
IS THE WIRING OF TURNSPIT MOTOR CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE WIRING DIAGRAM ? YES WHEN OVEN SWITCH TURNED ON, CAN YOU MEASURE THE VOLTAGE AT TURNSPIT MOTOR ? YES CONTROL THE WINDINGS OF TURNSPIT MOTOR WITH OHMMETER. ARE MOTOR WINDINGS DAMAGED?
NO
YES
CHANGE TURNSPIT MOTOR NO
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NO
IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TERMINAL BOX? CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS. Please see circuit diagram
YES
NO DOES THE HOB TURN ON?
CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS AND CORRECT pls see circuit diagram. IF NOT OKEY, CHANGE THE CONNECTION UNIT.
YES
YES
Child-lock is activated. The hob will remain locked until it gets unlocked by user.
To deactivate the child lock ; Switch on the hob. Simultaneously operate the front right heater selection key.(+) and decrease the heat setting key (-) and then operate the decrease heat setting key again.
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E4 : IHE not connected to supply voltage, filter board does not release voltage (Mains separation relay).
Check voltages or correct connection filter and IHE and realize, if required.
C/-
Wait for ( - ) , or abortion of the configuration with respective selection key, C ceases to blink.
1. Pot / glass temperature too high 2. NTC _ electronics temperature too high.
If this error is reset after 8 seconds, the hotplate may be used again.
E3
Pot generates inadmissible wok point on IHE, which may lead to destruction of components on the IHE (e.g. IGBT).
If the error occurs without a pot, or with a 100% working pot you have to Replace IHE
E9 :
U400 : Secondary voltage of the power unit to high (primary > 300V). Control unit cuts off after 1 sec releasing a permanent tone.
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REMOVE THE TERMINALS OF WIRING AND APPLY EXTERNAL VOLTAGE ; DOES THE INDICATOR LIGHT TURN ON NOW?
NO
YES
REMOVE THE HOT SURFACE TERMINALS OF HILIGHT HEATER. TURN ON HEATER AND CONTROL WITH OHMMETER IF THE HOT SURFACE TERMINALS ARE SHORT CIRCUIT ?
NO
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NO
IF SIGNAL LAMP CABLE IS HARMED; CHANGE THE SIGNAL LAMP
YES YES IS THE SIGNAL LAMP LED HARMED? CHANGE THE SIGNAL LAMP
NO
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NO IS THE TIMER AND FRONT PANEL HOLES COAXIAL? YES REMOVE TIMER AND CORRECT THE POSITION OF TIMER MANUALLY.
NO IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TIMER TERMINALS? YES NO CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTION pls see circuit diagram on user manual
WHEN YOU SET THE TIMER , IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TIMER RELAY TERMINAL ?
NO
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CHECK THE OVEN LIGHT WIRING CONNECTION pls see circuit diagram
OK
YES
NO
IS THE OVEN LIGHT BUTTON WORKING? NO CHECK THE OVEN LIGHT BUTTON WIRING CONNECTION ( pls see circuit diagram )
YES NO CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTION AND CORRECT. ( pls see circuit diagram ) DOES IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
IS OVEN THERMOSTAT AND SWITCH TURNING ON ? YES IS THERE VOLTAGE AT OVEN LIGHT TERMINAL?
NO
CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS AND RELEASE THE OPEN CIRCUIT.
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HINGE PROBLEMS
KNOB PROBLEMS
KNOB LOOSE
Before putting on the knob ; be sure the knob segment and knob spring is set correctly
knob segment
knob spring
knob ring
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PLEASE CHECK IF THE SCREWS IN TERMINAL BOX ARE TIGHTENED. IN OTHER CASE, HEATERS MAY NOT WORK
YES
NO IS THE WIRING OF HEATER CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE WIRING DIAGRAM ? YES YES IS THERE VOLTAGE AT HIGHLIGHT HEATING ELEMENT TERMINALS? CORRECT THE WIRING
NO FOR KNOB CONTROLLED HOBS ; CHECK AND CORRECT THE REGLER WIRINGS.
FOR TOUCH CONTROLLED HOBS ; CHECK AND CORRECT THE TOUCH CONTROL WIRINGS
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YES
CHANGE HOTPLATE
CHANGE HOTPLATE
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Cooking problems
CHECK THAT THE PLUG IS ON/OFF? CHECK THE TERMINAL BOX HAS VOLTAGE ?
OK
CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS ARE CORRECLTY DONE ? ( please see circuit diagrams ) OK IS THE HEAT ADJUSTED WITH OVEN HEATER CONTROL SWITCH? YES REGULATE THE TIMER pls.see user manual TIMER ( IF AVAILABLE ON MODEL ) REGULATED OR WORKING PROPERLY ? NO NO ADJUST THE HEAT See user manual for detailed instructions
YES CHECK THE ELECTRICAL HEATING ELEMENTS OF OVEN AND HOB ARE WORKING PROPERLY? NO
SEE CHAPTER : HOB HEATING ELEMENTS YES SEE CHAPTER : OVEN HEATING ELEMENTS
Cooking problems
CHECK SHELF LOCATIONS AND HEAT VALUES, CHECK THE COOKING PERIOD
FOR BEST COOKING PERFORMANICE ; REFER TO THE INSTRUCTIONS INDICATED IN THE USER MANUAL
OK IS THE FAN ( IF AVAILABLE ) CORRECTLY WORKING? NO PLEASE REFER TO " FAN PROBLEMS "
YES
IS THE THERMOSTAT BULB BRACKET FIXED CORRECTLY? YES CHECK WIRING CONNECTIONS ; BE SURE THAT THE OVEN ADJUSTED AS APPROPRIATE FOR THE VOLTAGE ( REFER TO LABELS ) NO REPLACE THERMOSTAT BULB BRACKET
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YES YES
CHANGE OVEN HEATING ELEMENT
NO
CHANGE OVEN SWITCH
YES
NO CHECK AND RELEASE THE OPEN CIRCUIT please refer to circuit diagrams
CHANGE THERMOSTAT
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NO
CORRECT THE WIRING AND TRY AGAIN. IS IT OK ? NO
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EMITTER DIODE SHORT CIRCUIT, ALL RELAYS OFF AFTER 1sn, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EMITTER DIODE INTERRUPTED, ALL RELAYS OFF AFTER 1sn, CANT TURN ON CONTROL ERROR ANALOG INPUTS. ALL RELAYS OFF AFTER 1sn, CANT TURN ON CONTROL CHECKSUM ERROR. ALL RELAYS OFF, CANT TURN ON CONTROL WRITE ERROR. ALL RELAYS OFF, CANT TURN ON CONTROL READ ERROR. ALL RELAYS OFF, CANT TURN ON CONTROL
ER 03 and continious sound : Permanent use of keys; control unit cuts off after 10 sec
ER 12 :
ER 22 : Key evaluation defective; control unit cuts off after 3.5 7.5 sec
ER 13
Defective component
ER 21
Let the cooktop cool down. Check heat insulation against the electronic control.
ER 20 : Flash-failure
C- faulty
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Detecting gas leak on the connection elements : Apply soap water on the connection points. If you observe bubbles around the part, there is gas leak. See below; gas leak between gas collector and the angle hose fitting .
Unscrew the angle hose fitting with a wrench (no : 22 and 24)
Reassemble the angle hose fitting and check gas leak again.
If you still observe gas leak ; change the angle hose fitting with a new one. Then apply soap water again until it is okey.
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Unscrew the gas delivery pipe nuts and remove pipe out of valve.
Remove gas delivery pipes from gas valves. Repeat this procedure for each one.
Turn the hob backwards and unscrew two screws on hob bottom cover.
Remove the gas valves in order . ( Changing gas valves on hobs ) Unscrew the gas valve assembly brackets
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NEW GENERATION FREESTANDING COOKERS First remove the front panel, then remove the cooktop.
Unscrew the gas delivery tube from the gas valve ( by the correct wrench )
Then the gas valve becomes seperate; unscrew the bracket, to take off the valve.
For knob ignition models; pull off the microswitch. Gas valve is free to change.
Align the new gas valve with the collector before mounting.
Please pay attention : to set the gas valves tightly on manifold
Screw the gas delivery tube and connect the thermocouple to the valve.
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Unscrew the three connection screws on cooktop left angle iron ( back of oven )
Gas manifold becomes free. Repeat this procedure backwards to assemble a new gas collector ( manifold ) pipe.
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The next steps are similar for hobs and freestanding cookers ; Take off the thermocouple : unscrew with a wrench from the burner body.
Press the spark plug segment and hold the spark plug up.
Then fix the burner body manually (or by an apparatus), and unscrew the nut between gas delivery tube and burner body.
To prevent gas leak ; pay attention the connections to be tight when changing components
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Changing FFD ( thermocouple ) for hobs Take off the thermocouple : unscrew with a wrench from the burner body
2. Changing FFD ( thermocouples ) for oven 2.1. Changing the FFD ( thermocouple ) for gas grill To remove the flame failure device ( ffd ) pull backwards manually.
thermocouple of ffd
2.2. Changing the FFD ( thermocouple ) for oven burner Unscrew the two screws and remove the burner cover.
Changing FFD ( Flame Failure Device ) for freestanding cookers a) Changing thermocouple for gas grill burner Pull back the thermocouple manually. ( Apply the same for spark plug )
thermocouple
spark plug
To remove the cable of thermocouple ; Open the rear panel of cooker Pull back and remove the ffd completely.
b ) Changing thermocouple for oven burner To remove the burner cover, unscrew front and back connection screws.
Pull back the thermocouple manually. ( Apply the same for spark plug )
thermocouple
To remove the cable of thermocouple ; Open the rear panel of cooker Pull back and remove the ffd completely.
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Unscrew the burner body from gas delivery tube by the wrench ( no :13 )
Then unscrew the gas valve end of gas delivery tube by the wrench ( no :13 )
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Unscrew the burner body end of gas delivery tube by the same wrench
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Changing Grill burner and injector : If ignition is available for gas grill ; there is a sparking plug ( white) Pull back and remove the spark module manually.
Change the injector with a new one from the spare kit.
Caution : Do not apply excessive force during screwing the grill burner to the oven cavity, as you may cause enamel fractures. It is recommended to use a protective eye glass during this
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Changing Oven Burner and injector Unscrew the two screws and remove the burner cover.
Open drawer.( If drawer is fixed : see how to remove ) Unscrew the connection screw under the burner box. Use a short , appropriate handhold screwdriver.
Remove the oven burner by moving right-left sides in the burner box.
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Pull back all wiring connections out of the ignitor box. Then, press the hooks and remove ignitor box.
hook
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Changing the Spark plug with cable For Oven & Grill Burner Remove spark plug manually ( of oven/grill burner )
Pull back and remove "spark plug with cable"out of the rear panel.
The other end of spark plug is connected to the ignitor box. and pull off the terminal of oven/grill burner wiring.
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Changing the Spark plug with cable For hobs : Press the spark plug segment and hold the spark plug up.
Pull off the other end of cable ( on the ignition box ) manually.
Replace the new spark plug ; and then place correclty the segment to fix it on the burner body
Attach the other end of spark plug cable ; into its place on ignitor box
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Removing rear panel ( freestanding cookers ) Detach all screws on rear panel to remove ( built-in cookers ) Detach all screws on rear panel to remove
If available, power cord terminals must be taken off from the rear panel
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Changing oven light button / ignitor button Remove front panel ( see detailed )
Attention : Do not push back the front panel hardly and fast ; this may cause the button wirings get harmed. Please hold it until you take off the terminal contacts.
Then push the hooks surrounding and push forward the button to remove.
Reassemble the wiring terminals to button ; and please pay attention the cables not to be destroyed while mounting the front panel.
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Changing oven light : Before replacing the lamp, disconnect the appliance from the electricity supplies. Remove the glass protection cover by turning. Then pull back the lamp If the oven lamp has to be changed the new lamp must have the following rating:
25W - 230Vac - 50 Hz - E14 - resistant to high temperatures (300C)
lamp
Press the hooks on the oven light (by a screwdriver) and then push into the cavity.
Pay attention that : the oven light is replaced appropriate to its hole on cavity
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Remove the wiring harness of fan motor manually, then the fan motor will be free.
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Pull out the wiring connections manually. The ring heater will be free then. 2. Top& Grill Heating Element : Remove Top heating element bulb bracket manually ( at middle )
Pull out the wiring connections manually. The ring heater will be free then.
Take up the wrapping insulation ( rockwool ) slightly , then unscrew the right and left connections of bottom heating element.
Press down the bottom heating element cover, then pull slightly backwards.
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Changing connection unit of induction hobs : Turn over the hob and remove the connection unit cover
Turn over the hob and remove ceramic glass Unscrew all surrounding screws of hob :
Changing heating element ( IHE) & touch control unit Unscrew all surrounding screws of hob.
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Pull the wiring sockets off terminal box Please do nof forget that rewiring must be done appropriately.
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2. Removing highlight heating elements: First unscrew ( v type ) heating element assembly springs
Unscrew ( t type ) heating element assembly springs they are screwed according to the matching numbers on heater&frame
Remove ( t type )heating element assembly springs from the hob frame
Pull the wiring sockets off terminal box Please do nof forget that rewiring must be done appropriately.
regler cover
Remove the "hot surface indicator light group" Wiring connections are free
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Removing highlight heating elements: Unscrew the ( v type ) heating element assembly springs
Unscrew ( t type ) heating element assembly springs they are screwed according to the matching numbers on heater&frame
Remove ( t type ) heating element assembly springs from the hob frame
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Pull off the signal lamp manually - to remove from the panel
On the left; 4 hotplate switches and on the right; function selector switch.
Remove wiring contacts out of the switch ; by a nippers. ( While reassembling the wirings, please refer to circuit diagrams )
Please hold the switch from its surroundings - not from its top and bottom surfaces
Do not compress the bottom plates of switch ! In this case, you may cause short circuit and switch may not work correctly.
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Changing thermostat :
Remove front panel ( see detailed )
Pull off the signal lamp manually - to remove from the panel
Thermostat and oven switch is placed on the left side of the cooker
thermostat
oven switch
The capillary tube of thermostat; ends on the thermostat bulb inside cavity
thermostat bulb
capillary tube
Now it is safe to pull back and remove thermostat bulb from the rear outlet. Thermostat becomes free then.
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Pull off the signal lamp manually - to leave free from the panel
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Handle Problems : If handle is loose ; replace and tighten it. If not solving ; change with a new one
screw screw
For Eski old version tip kaplarda handles ; Frn ; Handle Kap assembly Kulbu Balant Group = Grubu ( Old Handle = ( Eski assembly Kulp Balant stud + screw Saplamas ) + vida ) For new version handles ; Handle assembly Group = ( New Handle assembly stud + flat washer + screw )
gradual washer
screw screw
For Eski old version tip kaplarda handles ; Frn ; Handle Kap assembly Kulbu Balant Group = Grubu ( Old Handle = ( Eski assembly Kulp Balant stud + screw Saplamas ) + vida ) For Yeni new version tip kaplarda handles ; Frn ; Handle Kapassembly Kulbu Balant Group Grubu = ( New = Handle ( Yeni assembly Kulp Balant stud +Saplamas gradual washer + kademeli + screw rondela ) + vida )
INNER COVER OVEN DOOR HANDLE ASSEMBLY
OLD VERSION ( For oven doors before production FEB. 2007 ) LAST VERSION ( For oven doors AFTER production FEB. 2007 )
flat washer handle assembly stud ( old ) handle assembly stud ( new )
screw screw
WASHER
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DRAWERS Changing fixed drawer : Unlock the oven door hinges and remove door.
DETAIL A
Detail A :
DRAWERS Changing flap drawer : Unscrew the flap drawer and remove.
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Cooktop lids ( sheet iron) If metal lid angle is less then 90 or more than 100 ; Remove the cooktop lid hinge top and bottom ( plastic ) counterparts ; Change with new ones and try again, if not solving ; change the cooktop lid.
**Do not forget to put washer when placing top counterpart of hinge.
washer
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Changing Cooktop lids ( glass ) Take off the hinge cover plastics on the left / right side of glass lid
Placing Cooktop lids ( glass ) Put on the hinge cover plastics on the left / right side of glass lid
Set the glass lid, it is completed! Turn the hinge screws to adjust the glass lid if necessary
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Changing gas cooktops ; ( Table-top hobs & Freestanding cookers ) 1) Table-top hobs : Remove knobs, and screws around burner body.
Then you may change cooktop 2) Freestanding models with or without metal lid Unscrew the back angle irons at the bottom of the plate.
(These screws are not available for models with lid )
Changing cooktops ( with lid ) : Pull off the plastic cooktop hinge counterparts.
Unscrew the burner body and then the cooktop comes free
Hold up from the back side of the cooktop. Then slightly push forward ; to release the cooktop from the hooks.
Cooktop hooks
b) Do not forget to put the washer; when screwing the hinge counterparts.
washer
Unscrew the burner body and then the cooktop comes free
Unscrew the screw and pull off the plastic cooktop hinge counterparts.
(see red circled below)
Unscrew the burner body and then the cooktop comes free
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Changing electric cooktops and hotplates : a) Changing cooktop for freestanding cookers ( with metal lid ) Unscrew the back angle irons at the rear bottom of the plate.
Remove cooktop lid ( see detailed ) and then slightly hold up the cooktop from backwards
If you try to remove cooktop suddenly ; this may cause the wiring connections get harmed !
Take off the earthing cable terminal from the rear-left hotplate heater
Changing/Removing hotplate elements : Unscrew the hotplate bottom fixation screws, and remove hotplate housing.
Repeat the same procedure backwards when assemblying the hotplates again.
180 hotplate housing earthing vent is moved on the new cookers(with hotplate fixing elements)
We do no recommend to use hotplate fixing brackets on old cookers.
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Changing cooktop and heating elements & hot surface indicator lights
For both processes, please follow the steps :
Unscrew the back angle irons at the rear bottom of the plate.
Hold up the cooktop slightly from backwards. Take off the earthing cable
Hold the cooktop vertical, then take off all regler connections.
( While reassembling, the wirings must be appropriate with mentioned on the labels )
If you need to change the heating element, unscrew all surrounding screws of cooktop
Remove the terminals of heating element that you want to change. ( by a nippers )
Put the heating element on a smooth surface, then take off the heating element assembly spring and bracket.
Now you may change the heating element with a new one.
How to change the hot surface indicator light group : Unscrew the indicator light group ( with wiring )
Remove hot surface indicator group ( with wiring ) and change with a new group.
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If available on your oven ; Pull off the wiring connections of ignitor/oven light button.
Change the front panel with another Apply this procedure backwards to reassemble
Removing front panel ( New generation freestanding cookers ) Remove knobs manually
If available on your oven ; Pull off the wiring connections of ignitor/oven light button.
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New type( Revision: March 2007 ) ( set wire shelf into clips - manually )
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Before changing the side panel ; Take off all components possible to move/fall or defect:
Grids and pan supports, knobs, burner caps & heads, trays, warmer drawers etc
Pay attention to put sytrofoam on the ground before you lay down the oven.
The side panel sets free - you may remove and change it.
Repeat the same procedure backwards when assemblying the new side panel
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Remove the screws between side panel and top panel. Then slightly hold up and remove the top panel
Remove all scres on the side panel and then pull off side panel
When reassembling the side panel, repeat this procedure backwards. And please pay attention to set the side panel onto hooks at rear.
hook 1
hook 2
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ANTI-TIP BRACKET
DOVEL
SCREW
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