A Mathematical Approach
A Mathematical Approach
A Mathematical Approach
Waves
A mathematical approach to
the common types of wave motion
Second edition
The late C. A. Coulson
revised by Alan Jeffrey
Professor of Engineering Mathematics
in the University of Newcastle upon Tyne
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Longman
London an.d..NA\AI...'toJik.
Longman Group Limited London
Associated companies, branches and representatives
throughout the world
Published in the United States of America
by Longman Inc., New York
C. A. Coulson
This edition Longman Group Limited 1977
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the
prior permission of the Copyright owner.
First published by Oliver and Boyd Ltd. 1941
Published as second edition by Longman Group Ltd. 1977
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
Coulson, Charles Alfred.
Waves.
(Longman mathematical texts)
Includes index.
I. Wave-motion, Theory of. 1. Jeffrey, Alan.
II. Title.
QA927.C65 1977 531'.1133'01515 77-3001
ISBN 0-582-44954-5
Set in Linotron Times
and printed in Great Britain by
Richard Clay (The Chaucer Press) Ltd.,
Bungay, Suffolk.
Preface to the second
edition
The book written in 1941 by the late Charles Coulson served to
introduce a great many students to the basic ideas that underlie linear
wave motion. Just prior to his death he was beginning to give thought
to the task of revising his book in order to take account of the changes
in the teaching of the subject that have inevitably taken place since it
was first written. It is to be regretted that he left no plan indicating the
modifications he intended to make. Consequently, when accepting his
last request to me to see that a newedition of his book should appear in
print, I had to undertake my own re-planning of this work without
benefiting from any of his ideas or the special gift of physical insight
that he brought to his teaching.
The task of revision is never a straightforward one, and when
working on the present book I was always conscious of the fact that a
text like "Waves", which has stood the test of time so well, obviously
had a content and style of presentation that suited it to the needs of a
very wide readership. Accordingly, I considered it proper to preserve
as much as possible of the original structure and writing. So, within the
framework of the eight chapters comprising the original book, I have
confined my own contributions very largely to the inclusion of new
sections and examples wherever these seemed to be needed.
In recent years there has been a considerable growth in the study of
nonlinear wave phenomena and it seemed important to me that some
account of these matters should be given in this newedition. In order to
accomplish my task within a modest number of pages, and to keep this
first encounter with the subject at a level which is compatible with the
rest of the book, rather careful selection of material was necessary.
Essentially, this amounted to confining the illustrations used to fluid
mechanics, since only there is the structure of problems sufficiently
simple to enable them to be formulated without undue time first being'
spent developing the physical background. Despite this restriction, the
chapter contains enough basic material to enable students familiar
with more than a first course in subjects as diverse as solid mechanics,
plasticity, ferromagnetism, hydrology and chromatography to proceed
VI Preface to the second edition
as far as formulating and solving certain rather simple problems.
In his Preface to the first edition Charles Coulson wrote "the object
of this book is to consider from an" elementary standpoint as many
different types of wave motion as possible." It is my hope that by
revising and extending his work as I have, this same statement is as true
now as it was when he wrote these words in 1941.
Alan Jeffrey
January 1977
Contents
Preface
1: The wave equation
1 Introduction
2 General form of progressive waves
3 Harmonic waves
4 Plane waves
5 The wave equation
6 Principle of superposition
7 Special types of solution
8 List of solutions
9 Equation of telegraphy
10 Exponential form of harmonic waves
11 D'Alembert's formula
12 Inhomogeneous wave equation
13 Boundary conditions and mixed problems
14 Extension of solutions by reflection
15 A solved example
16 Examples
2: Waves on strings
17 The governing differential equation
18 Kinetic and potential energies
19 Inclusion of initial conditions
20 Reflection at a change of density
21 Reflection at a concentrated load
22 Alternative solutions
23 Strings of finite length, normal modes
24 String plucked at mid-point
25 Energies of normal modes
v
1
1
2
4
5
6
7
13
15
16
18
23
25
27
29
30
35
37
38
39
41
43
43
45
47
Vlll Contents
26 Normal coordinates 49
27 String with load at its mid-point 50
28 Damped vibrations 52
29 Method of reduction to a steady wave 53
30 Uniqueness of motion by the energy integral method 54
31 Examples 56
3: Waves in membranes
32 The governing differential equation
59
33 Solution for a rectangular membrane 60
34 Normal coordinates for a rectangular membrane 62
35 Circular membrane
63
36 Uniqueness of solutions 65
37 Examples 65
4: Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
38 Differential equation for waves along a bar 67
39 Free vibrations of a finite bar
68
40 Vibrations of a clamped bar
69
41 Normal coordinates
69
42 Case of a bar in a state of tension
70
43 Vibrations of a loaded spring
71
44 Waves in an anharmonic lattice
74
45 Examples
77
5: Waves in liquids
46 Summary of hydrodynamical formulae 79
47 Tidal waves and surface waves 81
48 Tidal waves, general conditions 81
49 Tidal waves in a straight channel 82
50 Tidal waves on lakes and tanks 85
51 Tidal waves on rectangular and circular tanks 87
52 Paths of particles 88
53 Method of reduction to a steady wave 88
54 Surface waves, the velocity potential 90
55 Surface waves on a long rectangular tank 91
56 Surface waves in two dimensions 92
57 Paths of the particles 94
Contents IX
58 The kinetic and potential energies 95
59 Rate of transmission of energy 96
60 Inclusion of surface tension. General formulae 98
61 Capillary waves in one dimension 99
62 Examples 101
6: Sound waves
63 Relation between pressure and density 104
64 The governing differential equation 104
65 Solutions for a pipe of finite length 107
66 Normal modes 107
67 Normal modes in a tube with moveable boundary 108
68 The velocity potential. General formulae 109
69 The differential equation of wave motion 110
70 An example 111
71 Spherical symmetry 112
72 The kinetic and potential energies 113
73 Progressive waves in a tube of varying section 114
74 Examples 116
7: Electric waves
75 Maxwell's equations 118
76 Non-conducting media and the wave equation 120
77 Electric and magnetic potentials 122
78 Plane polarised waves in a dielectric medium 124
79 Rate of transmission of energy in plane waves 126
80 Reflection and refraction of light waves 127
81 Internal reflection 132
82 Partially conducting media, plane waves 133
I
83 Reflection from a metal 136
84 Radiation pressure 138
85 Skin effect 138
86 Propagation in waveguides 139
87 Examples 145
8: General considerations
88 Doppler effect 149
89 Beats 151
x Contents
90 Amplitude modulation 152
91 Group velocity 152
92 Motion of wave 'packets 155
93 Kirchhoff's solution of the wave equation 158
94 Fresnel's principle 162
95 Diffraction at a pin hole 164
96 Fraunhofer diffraction theory 167
97 Retarded potential theory 169
98 Wave propagation in an inhomogeneous medium 171
99 Examples 174
9: Nonlinear waves
100 Nonlinearity and quasilinear equations 178
101 Conservation equations 180
102 General effect of nonlinearity 182
103 Characteristics 184
104 Wavefronts bounding a constant state 191
105 Riemann invariants 193
106 Simple waves 200
107 The piston problem 202
108 Discontinuous solutions and shock waves 207
109 Examples 216
Answers 222
Index 226
1
The wave equation
1 Introduction
We are all familiar with the idea of a wave; thus, when a pebble is
dropped into a pond, water waves travel radially outwards; when a
piano is played, the wires vibrate and sound waves spread through the
room; when a television station is transmitting, electric waves move
through space. These are all examples of wave motion, and they have
two important properties in common: firstly, energy is propagated to
distant points; and, secondly, the disturbance travels through the
medium without giving the medium as a whole any permanent dis-
placement. Thus the ripples spread outwards over a pond carrying
energy with them, but as we can see by watching the motion of a small
floating body, the water of the pond itself does not move in the
direction of propagation of the waves. In the following chapters we
shall find that whatever the nature of the medium which transmits the
waves, whether it be air, a stretched string, a liquid, an electric cable or
some other medium, these two properties which are common to all
these types of wave motion, will enable us to relate them together. In
the linear case they are all governed by a certain differential equation
called the wave equation or, as it is sometimes termed, the equation of
wave motion (see 5), and the mathematical part of each separate
problem merely consists in solving this equation with the right bound-
ary conditions, and then interpreting the solution appropriately.
2 General form of progressive waves
Consider a disturbance c/J which is propagated in the positive direction
along the x axis with velocity c. There is no need to state explicitly what
c/J refers to; it may be the elevation of a water wave or the magnitude of
a fluctuating electric field. Then, since the disturbance is moving, c/J will
depend on x and t. When t = 0, c/J will be some function of x which we
may call I(x). I(x) is the wave profile, since if we plot the disturbance c/J
2 The wave equation
against x, and "photograph" the wave at t = 0, the curve obtained will
be c/J = I(x). If we suppose that the wave is propagated without change
of shape, then a photograph taken at a later time t will be identical with
that at t = 0, except that the wave profile has moved a distance ct in the
positive direction of the x axis. If we took a new origin at the point
x = ct, and let distances measured from this origin be called X, so that
x =X +-ct, then the equation of the wave profile referred to this new
.origin would be
c/J = I(X).
Referred to the original fixed origin, this means that
c/J = I(x -ct). (1)
This equation is the most general expression of a wave moving with
constant speed c and without change of shape, along the positive
direction of x. If the wave is travelling in the negative direction its form
is given by (1) with the sign of c changed, so that then
c/J = I(x +ct).
3 Harmonic waves
(2)
The simplest example of a wave of this kind is the harmonic wave, in
which the wave profile is a sine or cosine curve. Thus if the wave profile
at t = is
(c/J )'=0 = a cos mx,
and the wave moves to the right wit)1 the constant speed c then, at time
t, the displacement, or disturbance, is
c/J = a cos m(x -ct). (3)
(4)
The maximum modulus of the disturbance a is called the amplitude.
This type of wave profile repeats itself at regular distances 27T'/m. The
distance 27T'/ m is known as the wavelength A of this periodic wave
profile. Equation (3) could therefore be written
27T'
c/J = a cos T(x -ct).
The time taken for one complete wave to pass any point is called the
Period 7' of the wave. It follows from (4) that the argument ~ T (x -ct)
Harmonic waves 3
must pass through a complete cycle of values as t is increased byT. Thus
from the periodicity of the cosine function we conclude that
27TCT =27T
A '
and so
T=A/c. (5)
The frequency n of such a periodic wave is the number of waves
passing a fixed observer in unit time. Clearly
so that
n =l/T,
c =nA,
(6)
(7)
and equation (4) may thus be written in either of the equivalent forms,
(8)
or
(9)
(10)
(11)
Sometimes it is useful to introduce the wave number k, which is the
number of waves in a unit distance. Then
k = l/A,
and we may write equation (9)
c/J = a cos 27T(kx - nt).
If we compare two similar waves
c/Jt = a cos 27T(kx - nt),
c/J2 =a cos {27T(kx - nt) +e},
we see that c/J2 is the same as c/J t except that it is displaced a distance
e/27Tk or, equivalently, eA/27T. The quantity e is called the phase of c/J2
relative to c/Jt. If e = 27T, 47T, ... then the displacement is exactly one,
two, . .. wavelengths, and we say that the waves are in phase; if
e = 7T, 37T, ... then the two waves are said to be exactly out of phase.
4 The wave equation
Even if a wave is not an harmonic wave, but the wave profile consists
of a regularly repeating pattern, the definitions of wavelength, period,
frequency and wave number still apply, and equations (5), (6), (7) and
(10) are still valid.
4 Plane waves
It is possible to generalise equation (1) to deal with the case of plane
waves in three dimensions. A plane wave is one in which the distur-
bance is constant over all points of a plane drawn perpendicular to the
direction of propagation. Such a plane is often called a wavefront, and
this wavefront moves perpendicular to itself with the velocity of
propagation c.
Suppose that the unit normal along the direction of propagation is ."
and that it has direction cosines (I, m, n). Then if r, with components
(x, y, z), is the position vector of a. general point P on the plane
wavefront at time t, we see from Fig. 1 that the equation of this
wavefront is
." r = Ix +my +nz = p,
where p is the perpendicular distance from the origin 0 measured
along the vector ." to the point Q at which this line meets the
wavefront.
o
Fig. 1
The wave equation 5
As the plane wavefront moves with constant speed c along .", it
follows that if Q is distant a from 0 at time t = 0, so that p = a +ct, the
above result may be written
Ix +my +nz -ct = a (cont). (12)
If, at any moment t, c/J is to be constant for all x, y, z satisfying (12),
then it is clear that
c/J = f(lx +my +nz -ct),
or
c/J = f(." r - ct), (13)
is a function which .fulfils all these requirements and therefore repre-
sents a plane wave travelling with speed c in the direction I: m : n
without change of form. When, later, nonlinear waves are discussed,
we shall see that the name wavefront is also used to characterise a
somewhat different, though related, property of a wave.
5 The wave equation
The expression (13) is a particular solution of the wave equation
referred to on page 1. Since I, m, n are direction cosines, 1
2
+m2 +
n 2 = 1, and it is easily verified that when f is twice differentiable the
function c/J satisfies the differential equation
2 _ a
2
c/J a
2
c/J a
2
c/J 1 a
2
c/J
V c/J = ax2 +ay2 +az2 = c2 at
2
' (14)
which bears a close resemblance to Laplace's equation. This is the
equation which is called the wave equation. It is one of the most
important linear partial differential equations in the whole of
mathematics, since it represents all types of linear wave motion in
which the velocity is constant. The expressions in (1), (2), (8), (9), (11)
and (13) are all particular solutions of this equation. We shall find, as
we investigate different types of wave motion in subsequent chapters,
that equation (14) invariably appears, and it will be our task to select
the solution that is appropriate to our particular problem. There are
certain types of solution that occur often, and we shall discuss some of
them in the rest of this chapter, but before doing so, there is one
important property of the fundamental equation to which reference
has already been made that must be explained further.
6 The wave equation
6 Principle of superposition
The wave equation is linear. That is to say, c!J and its partial derivatives
never occur in any form other than that of the first degree. Conse-
quently, if c!Jt and c!J2 are any two solutions of (14), atc!Jt +a2c!J2 is also a
solution, at and a2 being two arbitrary constants. This is an illustration
of the principle of superposition, which states that, when all the
relevant equations are linear we may superpose any number of indi-
vidual solutions to form new functions which are themselves also
solutions. We shall often have occasion to do this and it is, indeed, the
fundamental principle on which methods for seeking solutions to the
wave equation are based.
A particular instance of this superposition, which is important in
many problems, comes by adding together two harmonic waves going
in opposite directions with the same amplitude and speed. Thus, with
two equal amplitude waves similar to (11) moving in opposite direc-
tions, we obtain
c!J = a cos 211'(kx - nt) +a cos 211'(kx + nt)
= 2a cos 211'kx cos 211'nt. (15)
This is known as a stationary wave, to distinguish it from the earlier
progressive waves. It owes its name to the fact that the wave profile
does not move forward. In fact, c!J always vanishes at the points for
which cos 211'kx = 0; that is for
135
x = 4k' 4k' 4k' ....
These points are called the nodes of the wave and the intermediate
points, where the amplitude 2a cos 211'kx of c!J is greatest, are called
antinodes. The distance between successive nodes, or successive
antinodes, is 1/2k, which, by (10), is half a wavelength.
Using equal amplitude harmonic wave functions similar to (13), we
find corresponding stationary waves in three dimensions, given by
c!J = a cos {211'(". r-ct)/A}+a cos {211'(". r+ct)/A}
= 2a cos (211'J1 r/A) cos (2mt/A). (16)
In this case c!J always vanishes on the planes
". r= Ix +my +nz = (2m +I)A/4,
where m = 0, 1, ... , and these are known as nodal planes.
Special types ofsolution 7
7 Special types of solution
We shall now obtain some special types of solution of the wave
equation which we shall be able to apply to specific problems in later
chapters. We may divide our solutions into two main types, represent-
ing stationary and progressive waves.
We have alreadydealt with progressive waves in one dimension. The
equation to be solved is
Its most general solution may be obtained by a method due to
d' Alembert. We change to new variables u = x - ct, and v = x +ct.
Then it is easily verified that under this transformation
ac/J = aq, +ac/J ac/J = _ c ac/J +c ac/J
~ u ~ ~ au ~
a
2
c/J a
2
c/J a
2
c/J a
2
c/J a
2
c/J 2 a
2
c/J 2 a
2
c/J 2 a
2
c/J
-=-+2 +- -=c --2c +c -.
ax
2
au
2
au av av
2
' at
2
, au
2
au av av
2
When these changes are made the wave equation becomes
The most general solution of this is
c/J =/(u)+g(v),
/ and g being arbitrary twice differentiable functions of their argu-
ments. In the original variables this is
c/J = /(x - ct) +g(x +ct). (17)
The harmonic waves of 2 are special cases of this, in which/ and g are
cosine functions. The waves / and g travel with speed c, in opposite
directions, with / moving to the right and g to the left.
In two dimensions the wave equation is
a
2
c/J a
2
c/J 1 a
2
c/J
ax
2
+ay2 = c
2
at
2
(18)
By an obvious extension of d' Alembert's method it follows that the
8 The wave equation
most general solution involving only plane waves is
ef> = l(lx +my -ct) +g(lx +my +ct), (19)
(22)
where, as before, I and g are arbitrary twice differentiable functions of
their arguments and 1
2
+m2 = 1. Strictly speaking, these should be
called line waves, since at any moment ef> is constant along the lines
Ix +my = const.
In three dimensions the partial differential equation is
ilef> ilef> a
2
ef> 1 a
2
ef>
ax
2
+ay2+ az
2
=c
2
at
2
' (20)
and the most general solution involving only plane waves is
ef> =I(lx+my+nz-ct)+g(lx+my+nz+ct), (21)
in which f +m2 +n2 = 1 and I, g satisfy the same differentiability
condition as before.
There are, however, other solutions of progressive type, not involv-
ing plane waves. For suppose that we transform (20) to spherical polar
coordinates r, (J, t/J, t ~ the three-dimensional wave equation
becomes
a
2
ef> +2 ac/J + 1 .!.(Sin (J aef + 1 a
2
ef> = .1... i ef>
ar
2
r ar r
2
sin (J a(J a(J I' sin
2
(J at/J2 c
2
at
2
'
If we are interested in solutions possessing spherical symmetry (i.e.
independent of (J and t/J) we shall have to solve the simpler equation
a
2
ef> 2 aef> 1 a
2
ef>
ar
2
+; ar = c
2
at
2
' (23)
This may be written
a
2
1 a
2
ar2 (ref =c2 at2(ref,
showing (cf. equation (17 that it has solutions
ref> = I(r -ct) +g(r +ct),
whereI and g are again arbitrary twice differentiable functions of their
arguments. We see, therefore, that there are progressive type solutions
1 1
ef> =-/(r-ct)+-g(r+ct).
r r
(24)
(25)
Special types ofsolution 9
Let us now turn to solutions of stationary type. These may all be
obtained by the method known as the separation of variables. In one
dimension we have to solve
Let us try to find a solution of the form
c/J =X(x)T(t),
X and T being functions solely of x and t, respectively, whose form is
still to be discovered. Substituting this form of c/J in the differential
equation and dividing both sides by the product X (x) T(t) we obtain an
equation involving only ordinary derivatives
1 d
2
X 1 d
2
T
X dx
2
= c
2
T dt
2
We may call this the (m, n) normal mode. Its frequency is re/21T, or
I 2 2 T}
\j {(:2 +:2)4P .
The fundamental vibration is the (1, 1) mode, for which the frequency
IS
The overtones (4) are not related in any simple numerical way to the
fundamental and for this reason the sound of a vibrating plate, in which
as a rule several modes are excited together, is much less musical to the
ear than a string, where the harmonics are all simply related to the
fundamental.
In the (m, n) mode of (3) there are nodal lines x = 0, a/m,
2a/m, ... ,a, and y = 0, bin, 2b/n, ... ,b. On opposite sides of any
nodal line the displacement has opposite sign. A few normal modes are
shown in Fig. 13, in which the shaded parts are displaced oppositely to
the unshaded.
The complete solution is the sum of any number of terms such as (3),
with the constants chosen to give any assigned shape when t = 0. The
method of choosing these constants is very similar to that of 22,
62 Waves in membranes
(3,2)
(2,1)
(3,3)
Fig. 13
(3,1)
(2,4)
except that there are now two variables x and y instead of one, and
consequently we have double integrations corresponding to (27).
According to (4) the frequencies of vibration depend upon the two
variables m and n. As a result it may happen that there are several
different modes having the same frequency. Thus, for a square plate
the (4, 7), (7,4), (1, 8) and (8, 1) modes have the same frequency: and
for a plate for which a = 3b, the (3, 3) and (9, 1) modes have the same
frequency. When we have two or more modes with the same fre-
quency, we call it a degenerate case. It is clear that any linear
combination of these modes gives another vibration with the same
frequency.
34 Normal coordinates for a rectangular
membrane
We can introduce normal coordinates as in the case of a vibrating string
(cf. 26). According to (3) the full expression for z is
" A ( ) . m7TX . n1T}'
z = L. mn cos ret +er sm--smT.
m,n a
We write this
" . m7TX . n1T}'
z = L. <Pmn sm--smT'
m,n a
where <Pmn are the normal coordinates. The kinetic energy is
(5)
(6)
(7)
Circular membrane 63
and this is easily shown to be
T = L kpab4> (8)
m,n
where a dot signifies differentiation with respect to time. The potential
energy may be calculated in a manner similar to 14. Referring to Fig.
11 we see that in the displacement to the bent position, the two
tensions Toy have done work Toy. (areAB-ox). As in 17, this
reduces to approximately 2 ox oy. The other two tensions T ox
have done work ay)2 ox oy. The total potential energy is there-
fore
In the case of the rectangular membrane this reduces to
V
1 b 2 2..1.
2
= spa e r 'f'mn.
m,n
(9)
(10)
It will be seen that T and V are both expressed in the form of Chapter
2, equation (38), typical of normal coordinates in mechanical prob-
lems.
35 Circular membrane
With a circular membrane such as a drum of radius a, we have to use
plane polar coordinates r, 0 instead of Cartesians, and the solution of
equation (1), apart from an arbitrary amplitude, is given in 8,
equation (35a). It is
cos
z = Jm(nr) . mO cos net.
SIn
We have omitted the Y
m
(nr) term since this is not finite at r = O. If we
choose the origin of 0 properly, this normal mode may be written
z = J
m
(nr) cos mO cos net. (11)
If z is to be single-valued, m must be a positive integer. The boundary
condition at r = a is that for all values of 0 and t, J
m
(na) cos mO cos net
equals zero. So that Jm (na) = O. For any assigned value of m this
equation has an infinite number of real roots, each one of which
determines a corresponding value of n. These roots may be found from
64 Waves in membranes
tables of Bessel functions. If we call them nm,l, n
m
,2 nm,k, ... , then
the frequency of (11) is nc/21T, or cnm,k/21T, and we may call it the
(m, k) mode. The allowed values of mare 0, 1, 2, ... and of k are
1,2,3, .... There are nodal lines which consist of circles and radial
lines. Figure 14 shows a few of these modes of vibration, shaded parts
bdng displaced in an opposite direction to unshaded parts.
(0,1)
(0,2)
(1,1)
(0,3)
Fig. 14
(2,1)
(2,2)
The nodal lines obtained in Figs. 13 and 14 are known as Chladni's
figures. A full solution of a vibrating membrane is obtained by
superposing any number of these normal modes, and if nodal lines
exist at all, they will not usually be of the simple patterns shown in
these figures. As in the case of the rectangular membrane so also in the
case of the circular membrane, the overtones bear no simple numerical
relation to the fundamental frequency, and thus the sound of a drum is
not very musical. A vibrating bell, however, is of very similar type, but
it can be shown that some of the more important overtones bear a
simple numerical relation to the fundamental; this would explain the
pleasant sound of a well-constructed bell. But it is a little difficult to see
why the ear so readily rejects some of the other overtones whose
frequencies are not simply related to the fundamental. A possible
explanation is that the mode of striking may be in some degree
unfavourable to these discordant frequencies. In any case, we can
easily understand why a bell whose shape differs slightly from the
conventional, will usually sound unpleasant.
Examples 65
36 Uniqueness of solutions
The uniqueness of the solution of a mixed initial and boundary value
problem involving a vibrating plane membrane may be established for
an arbitrary shape of membrane by means of a generalisation of the
energy integral approach of 30. The task of showing this in the case of
a rectangular plane membrane is left as an exercise for the reader (37,
Example 7). It should, however, be noticed that if only boundary data
is given the solution will not be unique, for then any normal mode, or
eigenfunction, will be a possible solution. Only when Cauchy data is
given in addition, comprising the specification of z and az/ at over the
membrane at time t = 0, is there sufficient information available to
determine a unique solution.
The same is true, of course, of the vibrating string clamped at each
end, where again the boundary conditions by themselves suffice only to
determine the normal modes. The task of determining how to specify
sufficient information in order that a solution of a partial differential
equation should be unique is central to the study of such equations.
Something of the important physical consequences of these matters
should already be apparent from our study of waves on strings and
membranes.
37 Examples
1. Find two normal modes which are degenerate (33) for a rectangu-
lar membrane of sides 6 and 3.
2. Obtain expressions for the kinetic and potential energies of a
vibrating circular membrane. Perform the integrations over the (J-
coordinate for the case of the normal mode
z =AJm(nr) cos m(J cos met.
3. A rectangular drum is 01 mx 02 m. It is stretched to a tension of
5000 Nm-1, and its mass is 002 kg. What is the fundamental
frequency?
4. A square membrane bounded by x =0, a and y =0, a is distorted
into the shape
. 21TX . 37T}'
z =A sm--sm--
a a
and then released. What is the resulting motion?
66 Waves in membranes
5. A rectangular membrane of sides a and b is stretched unevenly so
that the tension in the x direction is T
1
and in the y direction is T
z
. Show
that the equation of motion is
ilz aZz iz
T1 ax Z+TZay Z= Patz,
Show that this can be brought into the standard form by changing to
new variables x f ~ } yfJT
z
, and hence find the normal modes.
6. Show that the number of normal modes for the rectangular mem-
brane of 33 whose frequency is less than N is approximately equal to
the area of a quadrant of the ellipse
x
2
yZ 4p z
aZ+bz=T"N.
Hence show that the number is roughly T/'pabN
2
fT.
7. Consider the energy
associated with a vibrating rectangular membrane stretched over the
region D with boundary aD comprising the rectangle x ~ a,
y ~ b. Its motion is governed by the wave equation
aZz z(azz azz)
at
Z
= C axz+ayz ,
and it is clamped along aD so that on this boundary it satisfies the
conditions
z =0 on x =0, x =a, y =0 and y =b.
It also satisfies the initial conditions
az
z(x,y,O)=h(x,y) and -(x,y,O)=k(x,y).
at
By consideration of dE/dt show, by means of Green's theorem, that
the subsequent motion is unique.
(1)
4
Longitudinal waves in
bars and springs
38 Differential equation for waves along a bar
The vibrations which we have so far considered have all been trans-
verse, so that the displacement has been perpendicular to the direction
of wave propagation. We must now consider longitudinal waves, in
which the displacement is in the same direction as the wave. Suppose
that AB in Fig. 15 is a bar of uniform section and mass p per unit
length. The passage of a longitudinal wave along the bar will be
represented by the vibrations of each element along the rod, instead of
perpendicular to it. Consider a small element PO of length 8x, such
that AP= x, and let us calculate the forces on this element, and hence
its equation of motion, when it is displaced to a new position P'O'. If
the displacement of P to P' is then that of 0 to 0' will be + so
thatP'O' = 8x We must first evaluate the tension atP'. We can do
this by imagining 8x to shrink to zero. Then the infinitesimally small
element around P' will be in a state of tension T where, by Hooke's
Law,
T
p
' =,\ extension
orig. length
1 L' 8x
=A Im----
8x
=,\
ax
Returning to the element P'O', we see that its mass is the same as that
of PO, that is p 8x, and its acceleration is Therefore
at
p8x-
2
=T
Q
' -Tp '
at
68 Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
I r
I I
x
~ x I
\
I I
I I x ~
~ x + e ~ I
A B
p 0
A B
p' 0'
Fig. 15
Thus the equation of motion for these longitudinal waves reduces to
the usual wave equation
ie 1 a
2
e
ax 2 =c2 at2' wherec
2
=A/p. (2)
The speed of waves along a rod is therefore J(A/p), a result similar in
form to that for the speed of transverse oscillations of a string.
The full solution of (2) is soon found if we know the boundary
conditions.
(i) At a free end the tension must vanish, and thus, from (1), ae/ax =
0, but the displacement will not, in general, vanish as well.
(ii) At a fixed end the displacement emust vanish, but the tension will
not, in general, vanish also.
39 Free vibrations of a finite bar
(3)
If we are interested in the free vibrations of a bar of length I, we shall
use stationary type solutions of (2) as in 8, equation (27). Thus
e=(a cospx+b sinpx) cos {Cpt+E}.
If we take the origin at one end, then by (i) ae/ax has to vanish at x = 0
and x = I. This means that b =0, and sin pi = 0, so that pi =n'ff', where
n = 1, 2, .... The free modes are therefore described by the functions
n'ff'X {n'ff'ct }
en = an cos -/- cos -1-+En
This normal mode has frequency nc/2/, so that the fundamental
frequency is c/2/, and the harmonics are simply related to it. There are
nodes in (3) at the points x = 1/2n, 31/2n, 51/2n, (2n -1)1/2n; and
there are antinodes (6) at x = 0, 21/2n, 41/2n 1. From (1) it follows
Normal coordinates 69
that these positions are interchanged for the tension, nodes of motion
being antinodes of tension and conversely. We shall meet this
phenomenon again in Chapter 6.
40 Vibrations of a clamped bar
The case of a rod rigidly clamped at its two ends is similarly solved. The
boundary conditions are now that = 0 at x = 0, and at x = I. The
appropriate solution of (2) is thus
. n1TX {n1Tct }
=an sm-,-cos -I-+En .
(4)
This solution has the same form as that found in Chapt.er 2, 23, for the
transverse vibrations of a string.
41 Normal coordinates
We may introduce normal coordinates for these vibrations, just as in
26 and 34. Taking, for example, the case of 40, we should write
00 n7TX
= cPn sin -1-' (5)
where
cPn = an cos +e
n
}.
The kinetic energy of the element PQ is!P so that the total
kinetic energy is
I
I
1 2 12
dx = I 4p
l
cPn.
o n
(6)
(7)
The potential energy stored up in P'Q' is approximately equal to
one-half of the tension multiplied by the increase in length; or!A
ax
Thus the total potential energy is
r
'
dx =I.! 1T
2
n
2
c
2
p
J
o
2 ax n 4 I
(9)
(10)
70 Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
42 Case of a bar in a state of tension
The results of 39, 40 for longitudinal vibrations of a bar need slight
revision if the bar is initially in a state of tension. We shall discuss the
vibrations of a bar of natural length 1
0
stretched to a length I, so that its
equilibrium tension To is
To = A.C 10
10
). (8)
Referring to Fig. 15, we see that 8x now represents the length of P'Q'
when in the stretched, non-vibrating state. The completely
unstretched length is therefore not 8x but (10/1) 8x, so that tension at P'
is not given by (1), but by the modified relation
'T' L. 8x +8e - (/0/ I) 8x
.I p' = A 1m
8x-+O (/
0
/ I) 8x
_
_ 'T'o +Al
.I i using (8).
1
0
ax'
The mass of PQ is Po(lo/l) 8x where Po refers to the unstretched bar, so
the equation of motion is
aT
Po(lo/l) 8x-
2
= T
Q
,- Tp =-8x
at ax
Al
=-1 -2 from (9).
o ax
We have again arrived at the standard wave equation
0
2
1 iJ2 2 2 2
-2 where C = AI/Polo.
ax c at
It follows that c = (1/ lo)c0, where Co is the velocity under no permanent
tension. Appropriate solutions of (10) are soon seen to be
. n1TX {n1Tct }
=a
n
sm-I-cos -I-+En, forn = 1, 2 ....
(11)
The fundamental frequency is c/2/, which, from (10), can be written
co/2/
0
Thus with a given bar, the frequency is independent of the
amount of stretching.
The normal mode (11) has nodes where x = 0, I/n, 2//n, ... , I. A
complete solution of (10) is obtained by superposition of separate
solutions of type (11).
Vibrations ofa loadedspring 71
43 Vibrations of a loaded spring
We nowoffer a discussion of the vibrations of a spring suspended from
its top end and carrying a load M at its bottom end. When we neglect
the mass of the spring it is easy to showthat the lower mass M in Fig. 16
p
(a)
unstretched
x+x
(b)
stretched
equilibrium
Fig. 16
x x ~
(c)
stretched
vibrating
executes simple harmonic motion in a vertical line. Let us, however,
consider the possible vibrations when we allow for the mass m of the
spring. Put m = pi, where p is the unstretched mass per unit and i is the
unstretched length. We may consider the spring in three stages. In
stage (a) we have the unstretched springof length i. The elementPP' of
length 8x is at a distance x from the top point A. In stage (b) we have
the equilibrium position when the spring is stretched due to its own
weight and the load at the bottom. The element PP' is nowdisplaced to
00'. P is displaced a distance X downwards and P' a distance X +8X.
Lastly, in stage (c) we suppose that the spring is vibrating and the
element 00' is displaced to RR'. The displacements of 0 and 0' from
their equilibrium positions are ~ and ~ +8 ~ The new length RR' is
therefore 8x +8X+8 ~ The mass of the element is the same as the mass
of PP', that is, p 8x, and is, of course, the same in all three stages.
We are now in a position to determine the equation of motion of
RR'. The forces acting on it are its weight downwards and the two
72 Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
tensions at Rand R'. The tension T
R
may be found from Hooke's
Law, by assuming that 8x is made infinitesimally small. Then, as in 42,
T = A extension
R I h'
ong. engt
=A Lim (8x +8X
8x-+O 8x '
=A(ax+
ax ax
So the equation of motion of RR' is
p8x-
2
= resultant force downwards
at
= gp 8x +T
R
,- T
R
,
aT
=gp8x +-8x.
ax
Dividing by p 8x and using (12), this becomes
= +A(a
2
x +
at
2
g p ax 2 ax 2
(12)
This last equation must be satisfied by = 0, since this is merely the
position of equilibrium (b). So
A a
2
x
0=g+--2
p ax
By subtraction we discover once more the standard wave equation
2 A Ai
c =-=-
p m
(13)
This result is very similar to that of 42. However, before we can solve
(13) we must discuss the boundary conditions. There are two of these.
Firstly, when x =0, we must have =0 for all t. Secondly, when x =i,
(i.e., the position of the mass M) we must satisfy the law of motion
M(
a
2g
]
-a2 =Mg-[T]x=l.
t x=l
Vibrations ofa loadedspring 73
Using (12), this becomes
A[ax
- =g-- -+-
at
2
x=l M ax ax x=t"
As before, this equation must be satisfied by = 0, since this is just the
equilibrium stage (b). Thus
.
M a---;Jx=l
So, by subtraction we obtain the final form of the second boundary
condition
=-
The appropriate solution of (13) is
= a sin px cos (pet +E ).
(14)
(15)
This gives =0 when x =0, and therefore satisfies the first boundary
condition. It also satisfies the other boundary condition (14) if
pi tan pi =m/M. (16)
By plotting the curves y = tan x, y = (m/M)/x, we see that there are
solutions of (16) giving values of pi in the ranges 0 to 11'/2, 11' to
311'/2, .... The solutions become progressively nearer to n11' as n
Increases.
We are generally interested in the fundamental, or lowest, fre-
quency, since this represents the natural vibrations of M at the end of
the spring. The harmonics represent standing waves in the spring itself,
and may be excited by gently stroking the spring downwards when in
stage (b). If m/M is small, the lowest root of (16) is small; writing
pi = z, we may expand tan z and get
z(z +z3/3+ ...)= m/M.
Approximately
z\1 +z2/3)= m/M.
We may put Z2 in the term in brackets equal to the first order
approximation z 2 = m/M, and then we find for the second order
74 Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
approximation
2 m/M
z = l+m/3M'
The period of the lowest frequency in (15) is 21r/pc, or, 21rl/cz. Using
the fact that c
2
= Al/m, this becomes
21Tl(M;t
m
).
If the mass of the spring m had been neglected we should have
obtained the result It thus appears that the effect of the
mass of the spring is equivalent, in a close approximation, to adding a
mass one-third as great to the bottom of the spring.
44 Waves in an anharmonic lattice
We conclude this chapter by making a brief study of longitudinal
vibrational waves that can occur in a long coupled chain of spring and
mass systems. Each individual systemin the chain will be taken to be of
length L and to comprise N equal masses m attached in a line, one to
the other, by weightless identical springs. When a large number of
these systems are connected to make a long chain it will be sufficient for
us to consider the motion in only one such system. This follows because
if we apply suitable periodic initial conditions there will then be
periodicity of behaviour with any translation of length L, in the sense
that any L apart in the chain will exhibit the
same motion at any given time.
A mathematical ip.odel of this type can be used to the
atomic vibrations in 'crystalline solids which, because of their regular
structure, give rise to extremely long periodic chains. Regular struc-
tures of this nature are known as lattices, and their study in terms of the
discrete model just outlined is called lattice dynamics. When the spring
coupling is assumed to obey Hooke's Law these are called harmonic
lattices, but when the spring behaviour is nonlinear they are then said
to form anharmonic lattices. Our purpose here will be to construct a
continuum approximation to a simple anharmonic lattice. These occur,
for example, in the study of certain materials that exhibit anomalous
heat conduction properties, and for which a continuum description is
found to be more appropriate than a discrete one.
Waves in an anharmonic lattice 75
The situation in the lattice under consideration is illustrated in Fig.
17 where, in the undisturbed state, the masses m are all at a distance
h = L/N apart. We shall let x, measured from point A as origin, be the
general position along the chain, while Yi denotes the displacement of
the jth mass from its equilibriumposition. The nonlinear spring will be
taken to be described by the simple quadratic law
T = "(d+a&), (17)
where d is the displacement from the equilibrium position and ", a are
constants.
I I
I m m m m m m ml
~ ~ ~ B
I 1 2 , - 1 , , + 1 N - 1 NI
, I
~ .-f
L
Fig. 17
If a dot is used to denote differentiation with respect to time, it is
readily shown that the equation of motion of the jth mass in
mYj = "(Yj+l - Yj) - "(Yj - Yj-l) +"a[(Yj+1 - Yj)Z - (Yi - Yi_l)Z], (18)
which follows by considering the forces exerted on the jth mass by the
two adjacent nonlinear springs after displacement. An initial value
problem for this lattice then amounts to specifying (Yj),=o and (Yj)'=o
for j = 1, 2, ... , N.
To reduce this discrete description to a continuum approximation
we now assume that Taylor's theorem may be used to interpret Yil in
terms of partial derivatives of Yi with respect to x. The justification for
this follows from the closeness of the masses and the smallness of the
displacements Yi. We thus start from the relationships
[
ay hZaZy h
3
a
3
y h
4
a
4
y 5]
Yi+l- Yj = h ax + 2! ax
z
+ 3! ax
3
+4! ax4 +O(h )
and
[
ay hZaZy h
3
a
3
y h
4
a
4
y 5]
Yi-Yj-l = h
ax
- 2! ax
z
+3! ax
3
- 4! ax
4
+
O
(h ) .
Employing these results in (18), and neglecting terms of order
greater than O(h 3), we arrive at the nonlinear partial differential
76 Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
equation
(19)
where c2= 'Xh 2/m. The initial conditions for the lattice are then
replaced by the specification of (y)l=o and (ay/ ax )1=0 on the initial line
0<x ~ L, with periodicity conditions at the ends of the interval.
When the spring law is linear, so that a = 0, the continuum approxi-
mation (19) reduces to the standard wave equation in which c
2
=
'Xh 2/m. Equation (19) represents the simplest continuum approxima-
tion for the anharmonic lattice characterised by the spring law (17).
This equation is an example of an important class of nonlinear partial
differential equations which are said to be of quasllinear type. In these
equations the highest order derivatives all occur only to degree one.
Although we shall not be able to prove it here, it can be shown that
solutions of this equation always cease to be differentiable after some
finite time T (cf. Chapter 9, 102). This is not in agreement with
experimental observations of anharmonic lattices so that equation (19)
cannot be regarded as providing a satisfactory description of the lattice
for times approaching T. To improve the approximation it is necessary
to retain more terms when the Taylor series are substituted into the
equation of motion (18).
If, instead of neglecting terms of order greater than O(h 3), we retain
one more term and neglect terms of order greater than O(h4), we
obtain in place of (19) the equation
a
2
y =c
2
[i
Y
+2ah(ay)2a2y +h
2
a
4y
] (20)
at
2
ax
2
ax ax
2
12 ax
4
,
where again c2= xh2/m.
This is a fourth-order equation of degree one in its highest derivative
so that this, too, is a quasilinear equation. Its form may be simplified by
means of a change of variable to
au au a
3
u
-+u-+/L-=O (21)
aT a ~ a ~ ,
where
~ =x - ct, T =cah2t, /L =h/24a and u =ay/ a ~
This is the celebrated Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation first derived
by Korteweg and de Vries in 1895 in connection with long water waves
in shallow channels.
Examples 77
As this equation cannot be studied here, it must suffice for us to
remark that its solutions do not suffer from the differentiability
difficulties associated with solutions of equation (20), and it can be
used as a continuum approximation to an anharmonic lattice.
The anharmonic lattice has thus provided us with an example of a
wave type physical situation for which a linear wave equation is an
unacceptable mathematical model. Furthermore, although we were
unable to demonstrate it in this account, only the second nonlinear
approximation can be regarded as being in any way satisfactory. This
situation contrasts sharply with the way we were able to approximate
the equation of the string in Chapter 2, 17 by the standard wave
equation.
45 Examples
1. Find the velocity of longitudinal waves along a bar whose mass is
0225 kg m-1 and for which the modulus is 9 x 10
5
N.
2. Consider a bar in which the cross-section at position x along its
length is a function S(x) of x only. Reformulate the equation of motion
in 38 for an element of the bar to show that it takes the form
aT ~
- 8x ~ Spo 8X-2'
ax ax
where nowPo is the density per unit volume of the material of the bar.
Showalso that Hooke's Lawimplies that the tensile force T is given by
. ~
T = S(x) Y
ax
'
where Y is a constant for the material of the bar. It is known as Young's
modulus. Hence deduce that when the cross-section of the bar varies
with x, the displacement ~ must satisfy the equation
where c
2
= Y/Po.
3. Waves are transmitted from an ultrasonic generator to their point
of application along a bar whose cross-section S obeys the equation
S(x)=Soe-
2ax
witha>O.
78 Longitudinal waves in bars and springs
Obtain a solution to the equation derived in the previous example in
the form (x, t) = h(x) e-int and use it to show that when n2 > a 2c2 the
amplitude of the waves transmitted along the bar grows at an exponen-
tial rate.
4. Two semi-infinite bars are joined to form an infinite rod. Their
moduli are A1 and A
2
and the densities per unit length are PI and P2.
Investigate the reflection coefficient (see 20) and the phase change on
reflection, when harmonic waves in the first medium meet the join of
the bars.
5. Investigate the normal modes of a bar rigidly fastened at one end
and free to move longitudinally at the other.
6. A uniform bar of length 1is hanging freely from one end. Showthat
the frequencies of the normal longitudinal vibrations are (n +!) c/2/,
where c is the velocity of longitudinal waves in the bar.
7. The modulus of a spring is 72 x 10-
2
N. Its mass is 001 kg and its
unstretched length is 0012 m. A mass 004 kg is hanging on the lowest
point, and the top point is fixed. Calculate to an accuracy of one per
cent the periods of the lowest two vibrations.
8. Investigate the vertical vibrations of a spring of unstretched length
21 and mass 2m, supported at its top end and carrying loads M at the
mid-point and the bottom.
5
Waves in liquids
46 Summary of hydrodynamical formulae
In this chapter we shall discuss wave motion in liquids. We shall assume
that the liquid is incompressible, with constant density p. This con-
dition is very nearly satisfied by most liquids, and the case of a com-
pressible fluid is dealt with in Chapter 6. We shall further assume that
the motion is irrotational. This is equivalent to neglecting viscosity and
assuming that all the motions have started from rest due to the
influence of natural forces such as wind, gravity, or pressure of certain
boundaries. If the motion is irrotational, we may assume the existence
of a velocity potential 4> if we desire it. It will be convenient to
summarise the formulae which we shall need in this work.
(i) If the vector u with components (u, v, w) represents the velocity of
any part of the fluid, then from the definition of 4>
u = -V4> =-grad 4>, (1)
so that in particular u = -iJ4>/iJx, v = -iJ4>/iJy, W = -iJ4>/iJz.
(ii) On a fixed boundary the velocity has no normal component, and
hence if iJ/iJv denotes differentiation along the normal,
iJ4>/iJv = o. (2)
(3)
(4)
(iii) Since no liquid will be supposed to be created or annihilated, the
equation of continuity must express the conservation of mass; it is
iJu iJv iJw
V.u=-+-+-=O.
iJx iJy iJz
Combining (1) and (3), we obtain Laplace's equation
2A. 2 2
V
2
4> ~ iJ 4> +;; 4> = O.
iJx 2 iJy 2 iJz 2
(iv) If H(x, y, z, t) is any property of a particle of the fluid, such as its
velocity, pressure or density, then iJH/iJt is the variation of H at a
80 Waves in liquids
particular point in space, and
DH
Dt
is the variation of H when we keep to the same particle of fluid. This
quantity is known as the total derivative, or the material derivative
following the ftuid, and it can be shown that
DH aH
-=-+u.VH
Dt at
or,
DH aH aH aH aH
-=-+u-+v-+w-.
Dt at ax ay az
(5)
(6)
(7)
(v) If the external forces acting on unit mass of liquid can be rep-
resented by a vector F, then the equation of motion of the liquid may
be expressed in vector form
Du 1
-=F--Vp.
Dt p
In Cartesian form this is
au+u au +v au +wau =F _! ap
at ax ay az :r: p ax'
with two similar equations for v and w.
(vi) An important integral of the equations of motion can be found in
cases where the external force F has a potential V, so that F= -VV.
The integral in question is known as Bernoulli's Equation:
P+.!.u
2
+ V- acP = c
p 2 at'
where C is an arbitrary function of the time. Now according to (1),
addition of a function of t to cP does not affect the velocity distribution
given by cP; it is often convenient, therefore, to absorb C into the term
acP and (7) can then be written
at
p +.!.u
2
+ V - acP = const. (8)
p 2 at
A particular illustration of (8) which we shall require later occurs at the
Tidal waves, general conditions 81
surface of water waves; here the pressure must equal the atmospheric
pressure and is hence constant. Thus at the surface of the waves
(sometimes called the free surface) .
1.u
2
+ V - act> = constant. (9)
2 at
47 Tidal waves and surface waves
We may divide the types of wave motion in liquids into two groups; the
one group has been called tidal waves, and arises when the wavelength
of the oscillations is much greater than the depth of the liquid. Another
name for these waves is longwaves in shallowwater. With waves of this
type the vertical acceleration of the liquid is neglected in comparison
with the horizontal acceleration, and we shall be able to show that
liquid originally in a vertical plane remains in a vertical plane through-
out the vibrations; thus each vertical plane of liquid moves as a whole.
The second group may be called surface waves, and in these the
disturbance does not extend far below the surface. The vertical
acceleration is no longer negligible and the wavelength is much less
than the depth of the Liquid. To this group belong most wind waves and
surface tension waves. We shall consider the two types separately,
though it will be recognised that tidal waves represent an approxima-
tion and the results for these waves may often be obtained from the
formulae of surface waves by introducing certain restrictions.
48 Tidal waves, general conditions
We shall deal with tidal waves first. Here we assume that the vertical
accelerations may be neglected. One important result follows
immediately. If we draw the z axis vertically upwards (as we shall
continue to do throughout this chapter), then the equation of motion in
the z direction as given by (6), is
Dw 1 ap
Dt
=-g---.
paz
Dw
We are to neglect Dt and thus
=-gp, so p =-gpz +constant.
82 Waves in liquids
Let us take our (x, y) plane in the undisturbed free surface, and write
(x, y, t) for the elevation of the water above the point (x, y, 0). Then, if
the atmospheric pressure is po, we must have p =Po when z = (. So the
equation for the pressure becomes
p =Po+gp(-z). (10)
We can put this value of p into the two equations of horizontal motion,
and we obtain
Dv a(
-=-g-.
Dt ay
(11)
The right-hand sides of these equations are independent of z, and we
deduce therefore that in this type of motion the horizontal acceleration
is the same at all depths. Consequently, as we stated earlier without
proof, in shallow water the velocity does not vary with the depth, and
the liquid moves as a whole, in such a way that particles originally in a
vertical plane, remain so, although this vertical plane may move as a
whole.
49 Tidal waves in a straight channel
Let us now apply the results of the last section to discuss tidal waves
along a straight horizontal channel whose depth is constant, but whose
cross-section A varies from place to place. We shall suppose that the
waves move in the x direction only (extension to two dimensions will
come later). Consider the liquid in a small volume as in Fig. 18
bounded by the vertical planes x, x +8x at P and Q. The liquid in the
vertical plane through P is all moving with the same horizontal velocity
u(x) independent of the depth. We can suppose that A varies suffi-
ciently slowly for us to neglect motion in the y direction. We have two
equations with which to obtain the details of the motion. The first is
(11) and may be written
au au au a(
-+u-+w-=-g-.
at ax az ax
Since u is independent of z, we have aufaz = O. Further, since we shall
suppose that the velocity of any element of fluid is small, we may
neglect u (au/ ax) which is of the second order, and rewrite this
Tidal waves in a straight channel 83
z
o
x
x
- h
Fig. 18
equation
au a(
-=-g-.
at ax
(12)
The second equation is the equation of continuity. Equation (3) is not
convenient for this problem, but a suitable equation can be found by
considering the volume of liquid between the planes at P and Q, in Fig.
18. Let b(x) be the breadth of the water surface at P. Then the area of
the plane P which is covered with water is [A +b(]p; therefore the
amount of liquid flowing into the volume per unit time is [(A +b()u ]p.
Similarly, the amount flowing out per unit time at Q is [(A +b()u]o.
The difference between these is compensated by the rate at which the
level is rising inside the volume, and thus
a(
[(A +b()u)]p -[(A +b()u]o = b 8x-.
at
Therefore
+b()u}=b a(.
ax at
Since b(u is of the second order of small quantities, we may neglect this
term and the equation of continuity becomes
a a(
--(Au)=b-.
ax at
(13)
(14)
84 Waves in liquids
Eliminating u between (12) and (13) gives us the equation
b a
Z
( =.i-(A a{\
at
Z
ax ~ t
In the case in which A is constant, this reduces to the standard form
a
Z
( 1 az(
-=- - withcz=Ag/b. (15)
ax
z
C
Z
at
Z
This is the familiar wave equation in one dimension, and we deduce
that waves travel with speed .J(Ag/b). If the cross-section of the
channel is rectangular, so that A = bh, h being the depth, then
c = .J(gh). (16)
With an unlimited channel, there are no boundary conditions
involving x, and to our degree of approximation waves with any profile
will travel in either direction. With a limited channel, there will be
boundary conditions. Thus, if the ends are vertical, u = at each of
them.
We may apply this to a rectangular basin of length /, whose two ends
are at x = 0, /. Possible solutions of (15) are given in 8, equation (27).
They are
( = (a cos px +(3 sin px) cos (cpt +E).
Then, using (13) and also the fact that A = bh, we find
au = C
h
P
(a cos px +(3 sin px) sin (cpt +E).
ax
and so
u =~ (a sinpx -(3 cospx) sin (Cpt+E).
The boundary conditions u =0 at x =0, /, imply that {3 = 0, and
sinp/ =0. So
and
r1Tx {r1TCt }
(, =a, cos -/- cos -t-+E" for r = 1,2,3, ...
a,c . r1TX . {r1Tct }
U, = h SID -/- SID -/-+E,
(17)
(18)
(19)
Tidal waves on lakes and tanks 85
It will be noticed that nodes of U
r
and (r do not occur at the same
points.
The vertical velocity may be found from the general form of the
equation of continuity (3). Applied to our case, this is
au +aw=0.
ax az
Now u is independent of z and w =0 on the bottomof the liquid where
z = -h. Consequently, on integrating we find
au -marC r7TX . {r7TCt }
Wr= -(z +h) ax = Ih (z +h) cos -1- sm -1-+Er .
We may use this last equation to deduce under what conditions our
original assumption that the vertical acceleration could be neglected, is
valid. For similarly to (12), the vertical acceleration Dw
r
/ Dt is effec-
tively aw
r
/ at, giving
7T
2
r
2
C2ar r7Tx {r7Tct }
- 1
2
h (z +h) COS-I-COS -I-+Er .
The maximum value of this is 7T2r2c2ar/12, and may be compared with
the maximum horizontal acceleration 7Trc
2
a
r
/lh. The ratio of the two
for an arbitrary rth mode is r7Th/l; that is 27Th/A, since, from (17)
A = 21/r. We have therefore confirmed the condition which we stated
as typical of these long waves, namely that the vertical acceleration
may be neglected if the wavelength is much greater than the depth of
water.
50 Tidal waves on lakes and tanks
We shall now remove the restriction imposed in the last section to
waves in one dimension. Let us use the same axes as before and
consider the rate of flow of liquid into a vertical prism bounded by the
planes x, x ~ x y, y ~ y . In Fig. 19," ABCD is the undistributed
surface, EFGH is the bottom of the liquid, and PQRS is the moving
surface at height ((x, y) above ABCD. The rate of flow into the prism
across the face PEHS is [u(h +() ~ y Jx, and the rate of flow out across
RQFG is [u (h +() ~ y ]x+8x. The net result from these two planes is a
gam
a
--{u(h +() ~ x ~ y .
ax
86 Waves in liquids
Q
S
E 6x
Fig. 19
Similarly, from the other two vertical planes there is a gain
a
--{v(h +l)} 8x 8y.
ay
The total gain is balanced by the rising of the level inside the prism, and
thus
a a al
--{u(h +l)} 8x 8y --{v(h+l)} 8x 8y =- 8x 8y.
ax ay at
As in 49 we may neglect terms such as ul and vl, and thus write the
above equation of continuity in the form
(20)
a(hu) +a(hv) = _ al .
ax ay at
We have to combine this equation with the two equations of motion
(11), which yield, after neglecting square terms in the velocities,
au al
-=-g-
at ax'
av al
-=-g-.
at ay
(21)
Eliminating u and v gives us the standard equation
-i.(h a,-\ +.i..(h a,-\ =1:. a
2
l
ax ay ayJ g at
2
'
(22)
Tidal waves on rectangular andcircular tanks 87
If h is constant (tank of constant depth) this becomes
a
2
l a
2
l 1 a
2
l
ax2+ay2=c2at2' c
2
=gh. (23)
This is the usual wave equation in two dimensions and shows that the
velocity is .J(gh). If we are concerned with waves in one dimension, so
that l is independent of y (as in 49) we put a
2
l/ay 2= 0 and retrieve
(15).
We have therefore to solve the wave equation subject to the
boundary conditions;
(i) w =0 at z =-h,
(ii) al = 0 at a boundary parallel to the y axis, and
ax
al =0 at a boundary parallel to the x axis,
ay
(iii) al =0 at any fixed boundary, where .i.. denotes differentiation
av av
along the normal to the boundary.
This latter condition, of which (ii) is a particular case, can be seen as
follows. If Ix +my = 1is the fixed boundary, then the component of the
velocity perpendicular to this line has to vanish. That is, lu +mv = O.
By differentiating partially with respect to t and using (21), the
condition (iii) is obtained.
51 Tidal waves on rectangular and circular
tanks
We shall apply these formulae to two cases; first, a rectangular tank,
and, second, a circular one, both of constant depth.
Rectangular tank. Let the sides be x = 0, a and y = 0, b. Then a
suitable solution of (23) satisfying all the boundary conditions (i) and
(ii) would be
l = A cos p;x cos q-r;: cos (r1l'ct +E), (24)
where p=0,1,2 ... ,q=O,I,2, ... , and r
2
=p2/a 2+q2/b
2
. This
solution closely resembles that for a vibrating membrane in Chapter 3,
88 Waves in liquids
33, and the nodal lines are of the same general type. The reader will
recognise how closely the solution (24) resembles a "choppy sea."
Circular tank. If the centre of the tank is taken as the origin and its
radius is a,' then the boundary condition (iii) reduces to or,;or = 0 at
r =a. Suitable solutions of (23) in polar coordinates have been given in
Chapter 1, equation (35a). We have
'=A cos m8J
m
(nr) cos (ent+e). (25)
We have rejected the Y
m
solution since it is infinite at r = 0, and we
have chosen the zero of 8 so that there is no term in sin m8. This
expression satisfies all the conditions except the boundary condition
(iii) at r = a. This requires that J'm (na) =O. For a given value of m
(which must be integral) this condition determines an infinite number
of values of n, whose magnitudes may be found from tables of Bessel
Functions. The nodal lines are concentric circles and radii from the
origin, very similar to those in Fig. 14 for a vibrating membrane. The
period of this motion is 21T/ en.
52 Paths of particles
It is possible to determine the actual paths of individual particles in
many of these problems. Thus, referring to the rectangular tank of 49
the velocities u and ware given by (18) and (19). We see that
w -1Tr(z +h) r1TX
;; = [ cot -[-.
This quantity is independent of the time and thus any particle of the
liquid executes simple harmonic motion along a line whose slope is
given by the above value of w/u. For particles at a fixed depth, this
direction changes from purely horizontal beneath the nodes to purely
vertical beneath the antinodes.
53 Method of reduction to a steady wave
We shall conclude our discussion of tidal waves by applying the
method of reduction to a steady wave, already described in 29, to the
case of waves in a channel of constant cross-section A and breadth of
water line b. This is the problem of 49 with A constant. Let e be the
Method ofreduction to a steady wave 89
velocity of propagation of a wave profile. Then superimpose a velocity
-e on the whole system, so that the wave profile becomes stationary
and the liquid flows under it with mean velocity e. The actual velocity at
any point will differ from e since the cross-sectional area of the liquid is
not constant. This area is A +b(, and varies with (. Let the velocity be
e +(J at sections where the elevation is (. Since no liquid is piling up, the
volume of liquid crossing any plane perpendicular to the direction of
flow is constant, so that
(A +b()(e +(J) = constant = Ae. (26)
We have still to use the fact that the pressure at the free surface is
always atmospheric. In Bernoulli's equation at the free surface (9) we
may put acP/at = since the motion is now steady motion; also V = g(
at the free surface. So, neglecting squares of the vertical velocity, this
gIves
!(e +(J)2 +g( = const. = !e
2
dZ
i
p
A
- h
Fig. 20
upon the liquid on the right. This will represent the rate at which the
energy is being transmitted. Suppose that the tank is of unit width and
consider that part of AA' which lies between the two lines z, z +~
(shown as PO in the figure). At all points of this area the pressure is p,
and the velocity is u. The rate at which work is being done is therefore
pu ~ Thus the total rate is
o
Lh puliz.
Rate oftransmission ofenergy 97
We use Bernoulli's equation (8) to give us p; since u
2
may be neglected,
and V = gz, therefore
ac/J
P=Po+p--gpz.
at
Now, according to (1) u =-ac/J/ax and from (34),
_ ga cosh m(z +h) ( _ )
c/J - h h cos m x ct.
mc cos m
Putting these various values in the required integral we obtain
. fO ga cosh m(z +h)
sm m(x -ct) - h h (Po- gpz) dz
-h C cos m
2 ( )fO pg2a2cosh2m(z+h)d
+sm m x - ct h2 h Z.
-h C cos m
This expression fluctuates with the time, and we are concerned with its
mean value over a cycle. The mean value of sin m (x - ct) is zero, and of
sin
2
m(x -ct) is!. Thus the mean rate at which work is being done is
2 2 0
pg a sech
2
mh f cosh
2
m(z +h) dz,
2c -h
which is easily seen to be
~ g p a 2 c +2mh cosech 2mh).
In terms of the wavelength ,\ = 2'TT/m, this is
1 2 {4'TTh 4'TTh}
4gpa c l+TcosechT . (46)
Now from (45) we see that the total energy with a stream of unit width
is !gpa 2 per unit length. Thus the velocity of energy flow is
C{ 4'TTh 4'TTh}
- 1+-- cosech -- .
2,\ ,\
(47)
We shall see in a later chapter that this velocity is an important quantity
known as the group velocity.
(48)
98 Waves in liquids
60 Inclusion of surface tension
General formulae
In the preceding paragraphs we have assumed that surface tension
could be neglected. However, with short waves this is not satisfactory
and we must now investigate the effect of allowing for it. When we say
that the surface tension is T, we mean that if a line of unit length is
drawn in the surface of the liquid, then the liquid on one side of this line
exerts a pull on the liquid on the other side, of magnitude T. Thus the
effect of surface tension is similar to that of a membrane everywhere
stretched to a tension T (as in Chapter 3, 32) placed on the surface of
the liquid. We showed in Chapter 3 that when the membrane was bent
there was a downward force per unit area approximately equal to
_T{ iC+a
2C
}.
ax
2
ay2
Thus in Fig. 21 the pressure Pl just inside the liquid does not equal the
atmospheric pressure po, but rather
{
iC a2C}
Pl=Po-T -2+-2 .
ax ay
The reader who is familiar with hydrostatics will recognise that the
excess pressure inside a stretched film (as in a soap bubble) is TO/R 1 +
1/R
2
), where R
1
and R
2
are the radii of curvature in any pair of
perpendicular planes through the normal to the surface. We may put
R
1
= -a
2
c/ax
2
and R
2
= -a
2
C/ay 2to the first order of small quantities,
and then (48) follows immediately.
air
liquid
Fig. 21
Thus, instead of being P = po at the free surface of the liquid, the
2 2
d
. h T{a
c
a
c
}. d
correct con ItlOn IS t at P+ -2+-2 IS constant an equal to po.
ax ay
Capillary waves in one dimension 99
We may combine this with Bernoulli's equation (9), in which we
neglect u
2
and put V = gz. Then the new boundary condition which
replaces S4 (iii) is now
(49)
(50)
(29)
(50)
We still have the boundary condition S4 (iv) holding, since this is not
affected by any sudden change in pressure at the surface. Bycombining
(29) and (49) we find the new condition that replaces 54 (v). It is
il/J+gaq, _T{ a
2
~ } a q = O.
at
2
az p ax
2
ay2 az
We may collect these formulae together; thus, with surface tension
(i) V
2
l/J = 0 in the bodyof the liquid (4)
(ii) aq,jav = 0 on all fixed boundaries (2)
(
"') aq, T{ a
2
( i(} 0 h f f (49)
11l --g(+- -2+-2 = ont e reesur ace
at p ax ay
(iv) a(jat =-al/Jjaz on the free surface
icf> aq, T{ i i }al/J
(v) -2+g--- -2+-2 -=Oonthefreesurface
at az p ax ay az
Only two of the last three equations are independent.
61 Capillary waves in one dimension
Waves of the kind in which surface tension is important are known as
capillary waves. We shall discuss one case which will illustrate the
conditions (i)-(v). Let us consider progressive type waves on an
unlimited sheet of water of depth h, assuming that the motion takes
place exclusively in the direction of x. Then, by analogy with (31) we
shall try
l/J = C cosh m(z +h) cos m(x -ct). (51)
This satisfies (i) and (ii); (iv) gives the form of (, which is
(= (Cjc) sinh mh sin m(x -ct). (52)
100 Waves in liquids
We have onlyone more condition to satisfy; if we choose (v) this gives
-m
2
c
2
C cosh mh cos m(x -ct)+mCg sinh mh cos m(x -ct)
+Tm
3
C sinh mh cos m(x -ct) =0,
P
glvmg
c
2
=(glm +Tmlp) tanh mho (53)
This equation is really the modified version of (32) when allowance is
made for the surface tension; if T= 0, it reduces to (32).
When h is large, tanh mh =1, and if we write m =271/A, we have
2 gA 21TT
c =-+--.
21T AP
(54)
The curve of c against A is shown in Fig. 22, from which it can be seen
that there is a minimum velocity which occurs when A2 = 41T
2
TI gpo
Waves shorter than this, in which surface tension is dominant, are
called ripples, and it is seen that for any velocity greater than the
minimum there are two possible types of progressive wave, one of
which is a ripple. The minimumvelocity is (4gTIp )1/4, and in water this
critical velocity is about 023 m sec-I, and the critical wavelength is
about 0017 ffi. Curves of c against A for other values of the depth h
are very similar to those in Fig. 22.
c
o
Fig. 22
Examples 101
62 Examples
1. Find the potential and kinetic energies for tidal waves in a tank of
length l., using the notation of 49.
2. Find the velocity of any particle of liquid in the problem of tidal
waves in a circular tank of radius a (Sl). Show that when m = 0 in
(25), particles originally on a vertical cylinder of radius r coaxial with
the tank, remain on a coaxial cylinder whose radius fluctuates; find an
expression for the amplitude of oscillation of this radius in terms of r.
3. Tidal waves are occurring in a square tank of depth hand siae a.
Find the normal modes, and calculate the kinetic and potential ener-
gies for each of them. Show that when more than one such mode is
present, the total energy is just the sumof the separate energies of each
normal mode.
4. What are the paths of the particles of the fluid in the preceding
question?
5. A channel of unit width is of depth h, where h = kx, k being a
constant. Show that tidal waves are possible with frequency p/27T, for
which
l =AJo(ax 1/2) cos pt,
where a
2
= 4p
2
lkg, and J
o
is Bessel's function of order zero. It is
known that the distance between successive zeros of Jo(x) tends to 7T
when x is large. Hence show that the wavelength of these stationary
waves increases with increasing values of x. (This is the problem of a
shelving beach.)
6. At the end of a shallowtank, we have x = 0, and the depth of water
h is h =hoX
2m
Also the breadth of the tank b is given by b =boX".
Show that tidal waves of frequency p127T are possible, for which
( = Ax"J
q
(rx
S
) cos pt,
where
s=l-m, a
2
=p
2
/gh
o
, r=als,
2u = I-2m -n and q = lulsl.
Use the fact that Jm(x) satisfies the equation
d
2
J +! dJ +(1- m
2
)J=0
dx
2
x dx x
2
(34)
Let us make the assumption that the aperture is so small that e
2
/1
2
and
71
2
/1
2
may be neglected. Then to this approximation (34) shows us that
So
a fl. ( xe +YTl)
q,p = - A -; SIn m ct - I + I dS.
Again without loss of accuracy, to the approximation to which we are
working, we may put l/r = 1/1, and then we obtain
q,p= -A sin {m(ct-/)+e},
where
and
tan e = SIC,
a J 2'1T
C(x, y) = At cos AI +Y71) de dTl'
sex, y)= Jsin d7l.
(35)
Fraunho/erdiffraction theory 167
Once we know the shape of the aperture it is an easy matter to
evaluate these integrals. Thus, if we consider the case of a rectangular
aperture bounded by the lines =o:, 71 ={3, we soon verify that
S= 0, and that
c= cos dl1
= 4a sin pax sin p{3y (36)
AI px py
where p = 21T/Af. If we are dealing with light waves, then the intensity
is proportional to C
2
and the diffraction pattern thus observed in the
plane z = 1consists of a grill network, with zero intensity correspond-
ing to the values of x and y satisfying either sin pax =0, or sin p{3y =0
but excluding x =0 and y =o.
96 Fraunhofer diffraction theory
The discussion of the\ last paragraph related to the case of plane waves
falling normally on an aperture whose size, while large compared with
the wavelength, was still small compared with the distance from the
aperture to the screen on which the pattern was being observed. We
might refer to this as diffraction at a pin-hole. But the equations (35)
arise in another far more important way which we must now explain,
and which is known as Fraunhofer DitlractiOD.
Consider a plane wave shown as AA' in Fig. 36 falling normally on a
convergent lens L. (L now replaces the previous pin-hole). This lens
will convert the plane wave into a spherical wave which converges at Z,
the focus. On account of the finite size of the lens the focus is not
perfect, and we ask the question: what will be the intensity observed at
a point P in the focal plane through Z?
To answer this question it is convenient to draw the wavefront R OR'
of a wave that has just left the lens. We may regard this as part of a
spherical surface with centre Z and radius equal to the focal lengthI. If
we take 0 as origin and OZ as axis of Z, then the coordinates 71, ()
of any point Q on the surface satisfy the equation
11
2
+( _1)2 = 1
2
,
or (37)
168 General considerations
z P(X,y,j)
A'
Incident wavefront
Fig. 36
A
(39)
Now by reasoning very similar to that used in 95 we may argue that if
P is near Z, the total effect at P is just the sumof separate contributions
arising from all the elements dS within the curved wavefront RR'. Let
us suppose that the inclination factor may be put equal to unity, and
that the amplitude at all points on RR' is a; this is the same as the
amplitude in the incident wave AA'. Thus
cPo = a cos m(ct +I). (38)
Let us write (x, y, f) for the coordinates of the point P at which the
observation is made, and put QP = r. Then the appropriate form of
(30) is
cPP = - a f! sin m(ct - T+f) dS.
A ,
We may replace l/r by 1/1 in the first part of this integral: and note
that
,2 = (x - fl)2+(f-()2
= by (37).
In cases where this type of diffraction is important, I is large and x and
yare small. We may therefore write
,2 = 1
2
- - 2YTJ,
Retardedpotential theory 169
so that effectively
r =/_xg +Y77
f .
Combining (39) and (40) we have
4>p = -:/ fsin m(ct +x'; ?11) dS.
Thus, on integrating,
e/>P = -A sin (met +e),
(40)
(41)
where A and e are given by precisely the same formulae as in (35).
This kind of analysis will apply particularly to the image of a star in a
telescope of long focal length. The star is so far away that it may be
regarded as giving out a beam of parallel light. We have just shown
therefore that the image of the star is not a point, but a pattern with
maxima and minima, depending on the shape and size of the lens. For
example, if a rectangular aperture (bounded by g=u, 'T1 =(3) is
placed immediately behind the lens L, the diffraction pattern is a grill
network, as in (36), and a circular aperture (Example 9 at the end of
the chapter) gives diffraction rings around Z. In any case the finite
extent of the central maximum, or zone, will put limits to our power of
resolving the light from two close stars. For if the geometrical images of
the two stars lie within one another's central zones, we shall experience
difficulty in distinguishing whether there is really only one star, or two.
But there is no space here to deal with this important matter any more
closely.
97 Retarded potential theory
We now offer a brief discussion of the equation
2 1 a
2
e/>
V ,,/,. =- ---477ip
0/ e
2
at2 ,
(42)
where p is some given function of x, Y, z and t. When p = 0 this is the
standard wave equation, whose solution was discussed in 93. Equa-
tion (42) has already occurred in the propagation of electric waves
when charges were present (Chapter 8, equations (17') and (18'. We
may solve this equation in a manner very similar to that used in 93.
170 General considerations
Thus, suppose that p(x, y, Z, t) is expressed in the form of a Fourier
series with respect to t, namely,
p(x, y, Z, t) = Lak(X, Y, z) exp (iket). (43)
There may be a finite, or an infinite number, of different values of k,
and instead of a summation over discrete values of k we could, if we
desired, include also an integration over a continuous range of values.
We shall discuss here the case of discrete values of k; the reader will
easily adapt our method of solution to deal with a continuum.
Suppose that cP(x, y, Z, t) is itself analysed into components similar
to (43), and let us write, similarly to (22),
cP (x, y, Z, t) = L I/Ik (x, y, z) exp (iket),
k
(44)
the values of k being the same as in (43). If we substitute (43) and (44)
into (42), and then equate coefficients of exp (iket), we obtain an
equation for I/Ik' It is
(45)
(46)
This equation may be solved just as in 93. Using Green's theorem as
in (25), we put 1/11 = I/Ik (x, Y, Z), 1/12 = (l/,) exp (- ik,), t k i n ~ and Sto
be the same as in Fig. 33. With these values, it is easily seen that the
left-hand side of (25) no longer vanishes, but has the value
4
J
ak (x, y, z) ('k ) d
- 'IT exp -I' 'T,
,
the integral being taken over the space between ~ and S. The right-
hand side may be treated exactly as in 93, and gives two terms, one
due to integration over I., and the other to integration over S. The first
of these is
-4111/Jk(XP, yp, zp). (47)
The second may be calculated just as on p. 159. Gathering the various
terms together, we obtain
( )
J
ak (x, Y, z) 'k )
I/Ik Xp, YP, Zp = , exp (-I , d'T
1J{ . al/lk . a(1)
+-4 (l/r) exp (-lkr)--I/Ik exp (-lkr)- -
'IT an an r
+ikl/l
k
(1/r)exp(-ikr) ar} dS.
an
(48)
(49)
Wave propagation in an inhomogeneous medium 171
Combining (43), (44) and (48) we can soon verify that our solution can
be written in the form
J
[P ]t-r/c 1 J
c/J(xp, YP, zp) = r d1" +41T X dS,
where X is defined by (27). This solution reduces to (27) in the case
where p = 0, while it reduces to the well-known solution of electrosta-
tics in the case where c = 00.
We have now obtained the required solution of (42). Often, how-
ever, there will be conditions imposed by the physical nature of our
problem that allow us to simplify (49). Thus, if p(x, y, z, t) is finite in
extent, and has only had non-zero values for a finite time t > to, we can
make X =0 by taking S to be the sphere at infinity. This follows
because X is measured at the retarded time t - ric, and if r is large
enough, we shall have t - ric < to, so that [c/J ]t-r/c and its derivatives
will be identicallyzero on S. In such a case we have the simple result
.A. ( ) J(P]t-r/c d
0/ Xp, YP, Zp = r 1",
(50)
the integration being taken over the whole of space. Retarded poten-
tials calculated in this way are very important in the Classical theory of
electrons.
98 Wave propagation in an inhomogeneous
medium
So far, all our analysis has been based on the assumption that the wave
propagation speed c that occurs in the wave equation is constant.
There are, however, many situations in which the equation provides a
suitable description of some physical phenomenon provided the wave
speed c is allowed to vary with position. This happens, for example, in
optics when light travels through a medium with a variable refractive
index, in acoustics when sound waves travel through any inhomogene-
ous continuum which may be gaseous, liquid or solid, and when
electromagnetic waves travel through an ionized gas.
Because of the complexity of the subject, we can offer no more than
a brief outline of an important approximate method of approach that
may often be used to resolve these problems. It is called the WKBJ
method after Wentzel, Kramers, Brillouin and Jeffreys who first
(51)
172 General considerations
developed it. For simplicity, we shall discuss it in the context of the
one-dimensional wave equation
(Pc/J 1 ic/J
ax
2
=c\x) at
2
'
We already know that when c(x) = c is constant, a wave travelling to
the right with speed c and frequency p/27T will be a solution of (51) if
c/J =A exp{ip(x/c -tn. (52)
Our approach will be to seek a generalisation of this form of solution
that will be appropriate to (51) when c(x) is a slowly varying function
relative to some reference speed, say c(xo), ,,:here Xo is a convenient
reference point. The form of solution that will be adopted as the
analogue of (52) will be
c/J(x, t) =A (x) exp {i(Z(x) - pt)}, (53)
where A (x) and Z(x) are slowly varying functions of x that are to be
determined.
Substitution of (53) into (51) followed by the cancellation of the
common exponential factor leads to the result
(54)
This immediately implies the pair of simultaneous ordinary differential
equations
(55)
and
(56)
In general, we cannot hope to solve these exactly, but an approxi-
mate solution may be obtained as follows. We begin with equation (56)
which can be expressed in a more convenient form without any
approximation. Setting q = dZ/dx it becomes
2qdA+Adq=O
d.x dx '
Wave propagation in an inhomogeneous medium 173
or
J
x dA I
q
d
2 -+ 2=0.
Xo A qo S
Integration then gives
2 log A (x) - 2 log A (xo) +log( =xo = 0,
which in turn yields
A (x) =A (xo)[Z'(xo)/Z'(x)t/
2
, (57)
with the prime signifYing differentiation with respect to x.
Turning our attention now to equation (55), let us assume that A (x)
is a slowly varYing function for which we may neglect d
2
A/dx
2
It then
follows that to a first approximation
which is equivalent to
I
x p
Z(x) = -() ds.
xo c s
(58)
(59)
EmploYing this approximation for Z(x) in (57) gives
[
C(X)] 1/2
A(x)=A(xo) c(xo) . (60)
Substitution of (59) and (60) into (53) then Yields the approximate
solution
t/> (x, I) = A exp {i( : cfs)'1s - PI) }. (61)
To estimate the range of validity of this expression it is necessary to
make more precise the nature of the slow variation of C(x) with x.
However, the source of the error was that when deriving expression
(58) we neglected d
2
A/dx
2
in (55). So, to estimate the effect this has,
let us now suppose that the true form of dZ/dx can be written
dZ p
dx = c(x) (1 +h(x,
(62)
where h(x) is the correction needed to make this result exact.
174 General considerations
Substituting (60) and (62) into (55) gives
1 d
2
c 1 (dC)2 p2
----c - --(2h+h
2
)=0
2 dx
2
4 dx c .
This expression also requires simplification, and to achieve it we
assume the slow variation of c(x) to be such that (dc/dx)2 d
2
c/dx
2
du=O
dt
along any member of the family of curves C which are the solution
curves of
dx
dt = feu).
(22)
These curves C are called the characteristic curves of equation (18).
The solution of the partial differential equation (18) has thus been
reduced to the solution of the pair of simultaneous ordinary differential
equations (21) and (22).
Equation (21) shows that u = const. along each of the characteristic
curves C. The constant value actually associated with any characteris-
General effect ofnonlinearity 183
tic curve being equal to the value of u determined by the initial data
(19) at the point at which the characteristic curve intersects the initial
line t =O. Setting u =const. in (22) then shows that the characteristic
curves C of (18) form a family of straight lines. So, if we consider the
characteristic through the point (e, 0) on the initial line, we find after
integrating (22) and using (19) that the family of characteristic curves C
have the equation
(23)
where enow plays the role of a parameter.
Expressed slightly differently, we have shown that in terms of the
parameter e, U =gee) at every point of the line (23) in the (x, t) plane.
In physical problems t usually denotes time, so that it is then necessary
to confine attention to the upper half plane in which t ~ O.
The solution to (18) and (19) may be found in implicit form if eis
eliminated between u =gee), which is true along a characteristic, and
the equation (23) of the characteristic itself. We find the general result
u =g(x - tf(u )). (24)
Result (23) is probably more instructive than (24), because it shows
that if the functions f and g are such that two characteristics intersect
for t> 0, then since each one will have associated with it a different
constant value of u, it must follow that at such a point the solution will
not be unique. This can obviously happen however smooth the two
functions may be, since intersection of two characteristics depends
merely on the value of f(g(e)) that is associated with each of the
straight line characteristics. This is to say on the two points ~ 0) and
(e2, 0) of the initial line through which they pass. We conclude from
this that such behaviour of solutions is not attributable to any irregu-
larity in the coefficient f(u), or in the initial data u(x, 0) =g(x).
Behaviour of this nature has not been encountered elsewhere in this
book and it typifies an important feature of quasilinear wave equations
that we have not so far seen. Later we shall show that discontinuous
solutions called shocks are possible in solutions of equations of this
type. Their origin is attributable to precisely this sort of process,
though a more complicated method of analysis than we can present
here is required to show this for general quasilinear systems of wave
equations.
This example may be developed a little further, because the family
of characteristic curves C may have an envelope for t> 0, and since it is
a family of straight lines this envelope is easy to find. If an envelope is
184 Nonlinear waves
formed then the envelope marks the locus of points at which non-
uniqueness of the solution first starts and a shock forms (see 107 and
108).
Now it is a familiar result from elementary calculus that if a family of
curves C has the equation
<I>(x, t, ,) = 0, (25)
with, a parameter, then the envelope, when it exists, is found by
solving simultaneously (25) and the equation
a<l>
a, (x, t, ,) = o.
(26)
Applying these results to (23) shows that, in terms of the parameter e,
the envelope is defined by
and t=-l/{f(g(e))g'(')}. (27)
When t is time we shall only be interested in the case when t> O.
Differentiating (24) partially with respect to x gives
au g'(x - tf(u ))
ax =1+tg'(x - tf(u))f'(u)' (28)
showing au/ax becomes infinite whenever 1+tg'(x - tf(u ))f'(u) = o.
So, finally, inspection of (27) and (28) then makes it clear that au/ax
will actually become infinite on the envelope of the characteristics.
Hence, whenever an envelope exists, the solution will steepen as it is
approached.
Many physical effects owe their existence to this form of nonlinear
behaviour which has no counterpart in the linear theory of wave
equations. Typical of these effects is the formation of a bore in a river.
This occurs under certain conditions in a tidal river when the incoming
tide gives rise to an almost vertical wall of water (a bore), which then
propagates along the river in a remarkably stable manner for an
appreciable distance.
103 Characteristics
The notion of a characteristic curve introduced briefly in the previous
section requires generalisation if it is to be applied to quasilinear
systems of first order equations as typified by equations (10) and (11).
Characteristics 185
We now make this generalisation for the system
au au
-+A-+B=O
at ax '
(29)
in which U and Bare n element column vectors with elements
Ut, U2, , Un and b
l
, b
2
, , b
n
, respectively, and A is an n x n matrix
with elements a;j. The system (29) will be quasilinear if, in general, the
elements aij of A depend nonlinearly on Ut, U2, , Un. When B 0
the elements b
i
of B may, or may not, depend linearly on
Ut, U2, ,Un' It will be assumed throughout this section that the
elements b
i
and aij are continuous functions of their arguments.
It follows from what has been said so far that both of the simple
systems discussed in 100 are of the form (29), each with n = 2. They
are, however, homogeneous since in each case B== O.
Although x, t are the natural variables to use when deriving systems
of equations describing motion in space and time, they are not
necessarily the most appropriate ones from the mathematical point of
view. So, as we are interested in the way a solution evolves with time,
let us leave the time variable unchanged in system (29), but replace x
by some arbitrary curvilinear coordinate ~ and then try to choose ~ in a
manner which is convenient for our mathematical arguments. Accord-
ingly, our starting point will be to change from (x, t) to the arbitrary
semi -curvilinear coordinates
~ =~ x t),
t' = t. (30)
If the Jacobian of the transformation (30) is non-vanishing we may
thus transform (29) by the rule
a a ~ a at' a a ~ a d
-=- -+- -=- -+-
at at a ~ at at' at a ~ at'
a a ~ a at' a a ~ a
-=--+--=--
ax - ax a ~ ax at'- ax a ~
where, of course, a ~ / at and a ~ / ax are scalar quantities. This leads
directly to the transformed equation
au+a ~ aU+ a ~ Aau+B= 0
at' at a ~ ax a ~ ,
186 Nonlinear waves
the terms of which may be grouped to yield
aU (a
e
ae )au
-+ -I+-A -+B=O
at' at ax ae '
(31)
where I is the n x n unit matrix.
Equation (31) may now be considered to be an algebraic relation-
ship connecting the matrix vector derivatives au/at' and au/at. It is
then at once apparent that this equation may only be used to determine
au/at if the inverse of the coefficient matrix of au/at exists. That is to
say, if the determinant of the coefficient matrix of au/at is non-
vanishing. This condition obviously depends on the nature of the
curvilinear coordinate lines t(x, t) =const., which so far have been
chosen arbitrarily. Suppose nowthat for the particular choice t =cp the
determinant does vanish, giving the condition
l
alpI +alpAI = o.
at ax
(32)
Then because of this the derivative au/alp will be indeterminate on
the family of lines cp = const. Consequently, across such lines lp (x, t) =
const., au/acp may actually be discontinuous. This means that each of
the n elements au;!alp of au/alp may be discontinuous across any of
the lines lp = const. To find how, when they occur, these discontinuities
in au;!alp are related one to the other across a curvilinear coordinate
line lp =const., it is necessary to reconsider equation (31).
We shall now confine attention to solutions U which are everywhere
continuous but for which the derivative au/alp is discontinuous across
the particular line lp =k(say). Because of the continuity of U, and the
continuity of the elements aij of A and hi of B, the matrices A and B
will experience no discontinuity across lp = k. So, in the neighbour-
hood of a typical point P of this line, A and Bmay be given their actual
values at P. In equation (31) there is no indeterminacy of au/at' across
the lines lp = const., and as a/at' denotes differentiation along these
lines it must follow that au/at' is everywhere continuous and, in
particular, that it is continuous across the line lp =k at P.
Taking these facts into account and differencing equation (31) across
the line e== lp = k at P gives
(
alpI +alp A) [au] = 0,
at ax Pllalp P
(33)
Characteristics 187
where [a] =a- - a+ signifies the discontinuous jump in the quantity a
across the line lp = k, with a_ denoting the value to the immediate left
of the line and a+ the value to the immediate right at P. As the point P
was any point on this line the suffix P may now be omitted. The
operator a/alp is differentiation normal to the curves lp = const., so that
equations (33) express compatibility conditions to be satisfied by the
component of the derivative of U on either side of and normal to these
curves in the (x, t)-plane.
This is a homogeneous system of equations for the n jump quantities
[au;/ alp] == (au;/ alp)_ - (au;/alp)+ and there will only be a non-trivial
solution if the determinant of the coefficients vanishes. The condition
for this is
j
alpI +alpAI' = o.
at ax
However, along the lines lp =const. we have, by differentiation,
alp+alp dx = 0
at ax dt '
so that these lines have the gradient
dx alp/alp
dt = -at ax == A (say).
Combining (34) and (35) we deduce that A must be such that
lA-AIl = o.
(34)
(35)
(36)
(37)
Consequently the A in (35) can only be one of the eigenvalues of A,
and since (33) can be re-written
(A - A I [ ~ ] = 0,
the column vector [au/alp] must be proportional to the corresponding
right eigenvector of A. This, then, determines the ratios between the n
elements [au;/alp] of the vector [au/alp] that we were seeking.
As A is an n X n matrix it will have n eigenvalues. If these are real
and distinct, integration of equations (35) will give rise to n distinct
families of real curves C(l), C(2), ... , C(II) in the (x, t) plane:
e
(i). dx = , (i)
. dt 1\ ,
i = 1, 2, ... , n. (38)
188 Nonlinear waves
If x denotes a distance and t a time, the eigenvalues will have the
dimensions of a speed. Anyone of these families of curves e(i) may be
taken for our curvilinear coordinate lines ({J =const. The A(i) associated
with each family will then be the speed of propagation of the matrix
column vector [au/a({J] along the curves e(i)belonging to that family.
When the eigenvalues A(i) of A are all real and distinct, so that the
propagation speeds are also all real and distinct, and there are n
distinct linearly independent right eigenvectors r(i) of A satisfying the
defining relation
Ar(i) = A(i)r(i), for i = 1, 2, ... , n,
(39)
the system of equations (29) will be said to be totally hyperbolic. We
may, if we desire, replace the words right eigenvector by left eigen-
vector in this definition, where the left eigenvectors I of A satisfy the
defining relation
1
(i)A - \ (i'l.(i) f . - 1 2
- /\ '(, or I - , , ... , n. (40)
This follows because simple linear algebra arguments establish that
when n linearly independent vectors r(i) exist, then so also do n linearly
independent vectors l(i).
Hereafter our concern will be with such systems, since they charac-
terise the type of wave propagation that has been the object of our
study so far. The families of curves e(i) defined by integration of
equations (38) are called the families of characteristic curves of system
(29). A totally hyperbolic system (29) is thus one in which there are n
distinct real speeds of propagation of a disturbance, each of which
when characterised by the appropriate right eigenvector is different.
The precise nature of these differences will be examined shortly.
The relationship between characteristic curves and the solution
vector U to system (29) is illustrated in Fig. 37 in the case of a typical
element Uj of U. Here it has been assumed that initial conditions have
been specified for system (29) in the form
U(x, 0) = \}I (x ),
where the ith element Ui of U has for its initial condition Ui(X, 0) =
,h(x).
The line PO in the solution surface S is the one across which au;/ a({J
is discontinuous, and its projection onto the (x, t) plane is the charac-
teristic which has equation ({J(x, t) = k. Since such a line marks the
boundary between the different solutions to the left and right of it, it is
natural to think of the solution to the left of ({J = k as a propagating
Characteristics 189
o a
Fig. 37
Wavefront
Wavefront trace
x
disturbance wave, and the solution to the right as the solution in a
region not yet reached by the disturbance. With these ideas in mind we
shall call the line PO in S the solution surface wavefront, its projection
onto the (x, t) plane which forms the characteristic curve 'P = k the
wavefront trace, the region R
d
to the left of 'P = k the disturbed
region and the region R
u
to the right of 'P = k the undisturbed region.
At any time t1 the physical wavefront is at the intersection of the
wavefront trace and the line t = t1.
Since it was not necessary that au/d'P should be discontinuous
across the characteristics 'P = const., it must follow that continuous and
differentiable elements of the initial data Ui(X, 0) = f/J;(x) will also
propagate along characteristics. In the case of the element of initial
data at A, this will propagate along the characteristic 'P =k
1
(say)
starting from the point (XI, 0) which is the projection of A onto the
initial line. The characteristic 'P = k
1
is then the projection onto the
(x, t) plane of the path AB followed by the element of the solution
surface S that started at A. Characteristics corresponding to k =
k
2
, k
3
, k
4
etc., may be interpreted in similar fashion.
The way the constants -k
1
, k
2
, are assigned to different charac-
teristics is arbitrary, apart from the fact that 'P =const. are coordinate
lines so that k must be assignee monotonically along the initial line
t = o. If it is necessary to do this, then possibly the simplest and most
convenient method of parameterisation is to assign to the characteris-
tic through (x, 0) on the initial line the value 'P = x-a. This has the
190 Nonlinear waves
effect that the wavefront trace then becomes 'P = 0, while 'P < 0 in the
disturbed region R
d
and 'P > 0 in the undisturbed region R
u
It will help clarify ideas if we consider the specific problem from fluid
mechanics introduced in equations (10) and (11). The eigenvalues A
are determined by
IA- All =0,
which becomes
I
U-A PI"
2 =0
alp u-A '
giving
Setting
A(1)= U +a, A(2)= U -a, (41)
the families of characteristic curves Cl) and C
2
) defined "by (38)
become
c(l): :;= u +a and C(2): :;=u - a. (42)
Expressed in physical terms we see that in the C(l) family, disturbances
thus propagate with the sum of the fluid speed and the sound speed. In
the C(2) family they propagate with the difference of the fluid speed
and the sound speed.
The right eigenvectors r(l) and r(2) must, by (39), satisfy
(A- A(i)I)r(i) = O. (i = 1, 2) (43)
So, denoting the elements of rei) by r ~ i and r ~ we have from (11),
(41) and (43)
[
u-A(i) P ] [ r ~ i J .
21 (i) (i) =0, I =1, 2.
a p u - A r2
(44)
Since only the ratios of the elements of the right eigenvectors are
determined by (43) it is often convenient to normalise the eigenvectors
so that the first element is unity, when it follows from (44) that
r
1 ] r 1 1
r(l)= and r(2) = l J'
lalp -alp
(45)
Wave/ronts boundinga constant state 191
(46)
It may thus be concluded that wherever a wavefront exists, since the
form of U in (11) implies
[
alJll [[ap/ alp]]
a;] = [au/alp] ,
a comparison of (37) and (43) followed by the use of (45) will yield:
across a wavefront in the C(l) family of characteristic curves
[ap/alp] _ [au/alp]
1 - alp ,
and
across a wavefront in the C(2) family of characteristic curves
(47)
[ap/alp] _[au/alp]
1 - -alp ,
(46) and (47) have values appropriate to the where a and p in
wavefront.
This result generalises without difficulty, for suppose that the vector
r(i) with elements r ~ i r ~ ... , r ~ is the ith right eigenvector of A
corresponding to the eigenvalue A= A(i). Then across a wavefront
belonging to the C(i) family we may write,
(48)
where the elements of r(i) =r(i)(U) have values determined by U on the
wavefront. This is a result we shall have occasion to use again later.
104 Wavefronts bounding a constant state
In physical situations the solution vector U describes the "state" of the
system described by equations (29). It is thus convenient to refer to a
region in which U is non-constant as a disturbed state, and a region in
which U is constant as a constant state, irrespective of whether or not
the system involved described a physical situation. Our purpose here
will be to examine the simplification that results in equations like (46)
and (47) when a wavefront bounds a constant state.
First, as the elements aij of A are continuous functions of their
arguments, it follows directly that the eigenvalues A(i) of A are
(49)
192 Nonlinear waves
continuous functions of ajj, and hence of the elements ub U2, ... , Un of
U. Since U is itself continuous across a wavefront we conclude that
A(i) =Ag) =const., on a wavefront bounding the constant state U = U
o
,
where Ag)= A(i)(U
o
). From equations (38) we thus see that if a charac-
teristic curve from the ith family C(i) bounds a constant state, then it
must be a straight line.
If such a straight line characteristic cg) belonging to the ith family
C(i) bounds a constant state U =U
o
that lies to its right (say), then
because = =0,
[
au,] (au,) (au,) (au')
_1 = _1 _ _1 = _1 for j =1, 2, ... , n.
- +
Now au/at' is continuous across cg) while au
o
/ at' =O. Thus in the
disturbed region immediately adjacent to cg) the total differential dUj
reduces to
dUj = (aUi) for j =1,2, ... , n.
-
By virtue of (48) and (49) this is equivalent to
du = dm
lIT'
(50)
(51)
where K is some constant of proportionality. It proves convenient to
choose K so that the first element of Kr(i) becomes unity. Setting
j =1 in (51) then gives dUl = so that all the other differentials
dU2, dU3, ... ,dun become expressible in terms of dUl, because (51)
becomes
d
- (i) d f . - 1 2 dU - (i) d
Uj - rj Ul or J - , , , n or - r Ul. (52)
The convenience of this normalisation is well illustrated by means of
the eigenvectors given in (45) for the equations of one-dimensional
unsteady isentropic gas flow. We find that in the disturbed region
immediately adjacent to a wavefront belonging to the C(l) family of
characteristics that bounds a constant state uo, Po (in which a = ao), it
must follow from r(l) that
du = (ao/ Po) dp. (53)
The corresponding behaviour adjacent to a wavefront belonging to the
C(2) family that bounds this same constant state is, from r(2),
du =-(ao/Po) dp. (54)
Riemann invariants 193
A simple rule that is sometimes useful for deriving results of this
form follows by combining the matrix vector form of (52) and the
defining relationship
Ar= Ar
for the right eigenvector corresponding to the eigenvalue A.
Immediately adjacent to the constant state U = U
o
this gives the result
(A
o
- Aol) dU = 0, (55)
(56)
where A
o
= A(U
o
) and Ao = A(U
o
). Comparison of this result with
system (29) from which it was derived now yields the following rule.
Rule for compatibility for elements of dUe To find the
relationships that exist between the elements dul, dU2, ... ,dun of dU
in the disturbed region immediately adjacent to a wavefront that
bounds a constant state U = U
o
, the vector B in (29) should be
neglected, the undifferentiated variables should be replaced by their
constant state values, and in the differentiated terms the following
replacements should be made
a a
--+-Ad(.) and --+d(.).
at ax
For example, a term ap/at should be replaced by -A dp and one like
u aufdx should be replaced by Uo duo When applied to the scalar
equations represented by (10) and (11)which gave rise to (53) and (54)
this rule gives
-A dp+uodp+Podu=O,
2
ao
-A du +Uo du +- dp = O.
Po
Then, as before, we find
A&1) = Uo +ao,
(2)
A
o
= uo- ao,
while for a C(l) characteristic wavefront du = (aol Po) dp and for a C(2)
characteristic wavefront du = -(ao/Po) dp.
105 Riemann invariants
In this section we offer a brief discussion of an important technique
that can lead directly to a solution when certain calculations can be
performed, and which in any provides a valuable insight into the
194 Nonlinear waves
nature of solutions to a special class of problems. This method applies
to any totally hyperbolic system of two homogeneous first order
equations involving two dependent variables Ul, U2 of the general form
aUl aUl aU2
-+all-+a12-=O,
at ax ax
aU2 aUl aU2
-+a2l-+a22-=0,
at ax ax
which is subject to the initial data
Ul(X,O)=Ul(X) and U2(X,0)=U2(X).
(57)
(58)
The coefficients aij = aij(Ul, U2) will, in general, be assumed to be
functions of the two dependent variables Ul and U2, but not to have any
explicit dependence on the independent variables x and t. The system
(57) will be quasiDnear when aij = aij(ul, U2) and it will be Dnear in the
special case when the coefficients aij are all constants.
Defining A and U to be
enables equations (57) to be written
au+Aau=o
at ax '
(59)
when we know from 103 that the system will be totally hyperbolic
provided the two eigenvalues A(0, i = 1, 2 of
IA-AII=O (60)
are real and distinct and A has two linearly independent eigenvectors.
In place of the right eigenvectors r that were useful in 103, and which
were defined in (39), let us now make use of the corresponding left
eigenvectors 1defined in (40) by
1
(i)A = \ (1),,(;) f . 1 2
A '1, or 1= , . (61)
If, now, we pre-multiply (59) by I(i) and use (61) we obtain the result
I(i)(au +A(t)au) = 0, for i = 1, 2.
at ax
(62)
Riemann invariants 195
In this the bracketed expression will be recognised as the directional
derivative of U with respect to time along the family of characteristics
e(i). Denoting differentiation with respect to time along members of
the e(l) family of characteristics by d/da and differentiation with
respect to time along members of the e(2) family of characteristics by
d/d{3 enables us to replace (62) by the following pair of ordinary
differential equations which are defined
along the e(l) characteristics by
1(l)dU= 0
da '
and along the e(2) characteristics by
1
(2)dU = 0
d{3 .
(63)
(64)
Hence (3 = const., along e(l) characteristics and a = const., along
e(2) characteristics as indicated in Fig. 38.
x
Fig. 38
196 Nonlinear waves
Setting the left eigenvector I(i) = for i = 1, 2 then enables
(63), (64) to be re-expressed as
lP)du
1
+ = 0 along the e(l) characteristics (65)
da da
and
1(2)du
1
+1(2)du
2
= 0 along the e(2) characteristics. (66)
1 d{3 2 d{3
Since, by supposition, A depends only on uland U2, so also will the
coefficients of the left eigenvectors 1(1),1(2). Consequently, both (65)
and (66) will always be integrable along their respective characteris-
tics, though they may first require multiplication by a suitable integrat-
ing factor IJ-.
Integrating (65) with respect to a along the e(l) characteristics, and
(66) with respect to {3 along the e(2) characteristics gives:
along e(l) characteristics
f dUl +f dU2 = r(f3)
and
along e(2) characteristics
f dUl + f dU2 = s(a),
(67)
(68)
(69)
where r, s are arbitrary functions of their respective arguments {3 and
a. The two families of characteristics are themselves given by integra-
tion of the equations
e
(i) dx = 1 (;) f . 1 2
. dt 1\, or I = , .
The functions r({3) and s(a) are called Riemann invariants and, by
virtue of their manner of derivation, rand s are constant along their
respective families of characteristics. To be more precise, r({3) is
constant along any e(l) characteristic, though as it is a function of {3,
which in turn identifies the characteristics, it will, in general, be
different for different characteristics. Correspondingly, s(a) is con-
stant along any e(2) characteristic, though here again the constant will
be different for different characteristics depending on the value of a
associated with each characteristic.
Riemann invariants 197
Equations (67) and (68) enable Ul and U2 to be expressed in terms of
rand s, the values of which are determined at points of the initial line
t = 0 by the initial data (58). Suppose rep) in (67) is denoted by
R(Ub U2) and s(a) in (68) is denoted by S(Ul, U2). Then along the C(1)
characteristic issuing out from the point (xo, 0) of the initial line in the
sense of increasing time we have from (58) and the property of rep)
that
R(Ul, U2)= R(Ul(XO)' U2(XO))' (70)
Similarly, along the C(2) characteristic issuing out from the point (Xl, 0)
of the initial line in the sense of increasing time we have from (58) and
the property of s(a) that
S(Ul, U2) = S(Ul(Xl), U2(Xl)). (71)
Solving these two implicit equations for Ul and U2 then determines
the solution at the point P in Fig. 38 which is the point of intersection of
the C(1) and C(2) characteristics along which the respective constant
values of Rand S are transported. In principle the initial value
problem is now solved, since as the points (Xo, 0) and (Xl, 0) of the
initial line were arbitrary, so also is the point P which may be anywhere
in the upper half plane. However, in any particular case, the task of
solving the two implicit relationships and of finding the characteristic
curves in order to determine their point of intersection P is usually
difficult. Nevertheless, this method of solution can often be used to
solve problems and it is, in any case, of considerable theoretical
importance.
To illustrate the method we apply it to the system of equations (10),
(ll)which are of the precise form given in (57). The eigenvalues of this
system have already been found in (41) and the characteristic curves
follow by i n t ~ r t i o n of (42). A simple calculation shows that the left
eigenvector 1(1 corresponding to A (1) = U +a is
I
1(1) = (1, p/a) (72)
and the left eigenvector corresponding to A(2) = U - a is
1(2)=(1,-p/a). (73)
Making the identifications Ul =p, U2 =U equations (65), (66) then
become
dp +p du = 0 along C(1) characteristics (74a)
da a da
198 Nonlinear waves
and
dp _ p du = 0 along e(2) characteristics. (74b)
d ~ a d ~
As a =a(p), the integrating factor is seen by inspection to be
I-' = a/p, so that (67) and (68) become
J; dp +u = r(jJ) along e
'
)characteristics (75)
and
J;dp - u = s(a) along C(2) characteristics. (76)
If the gas law p = kp'Y is assumed then, since a
2
= dp/dp, it follows
that (75) and (76) finally take the form
2a
-+u r ~ (77)
'Y- 1
is constant along e(l) characteristics, and
2a
--u=s(a) (78)
'Y- 1
is constant along e(2) characteristics. Hence, working in terms of a
rather than p, we find
a = ('Y -1)(r+s )/4, u = (r-s)/2, (79)
showing, as has already been remarked, that it is possible to express the
dependent variables in terms of the Riemann invariants. The determi-
nation of the characteristics by integrating
(80)
is, however, only possible in special cases.
We shall look in more detail at an important special case of Riemann
invariants in the next section, but in the meantime we conclude this
section by making an application of the method to a linear problem.
This both enables us to solve a complete problem and to illustrate the
use of the method in the linear case.
Riemann invariants 199
Consider the pair of equations
aUl+au2=0
at ax '
where
Ul(X,O)=e
x
and U2(x,0)=e-
x
Use equations (81) and the initial data (82) to derive appropriate initial
data for Ul and U2 as solutions of the wave equation and hence find U1
and U2 by means of d' Alembert's method as described in 11 equation
(57). Compare and contrast this method of solution with the one
described in 10S making use of Riemann invariants.
220 Nonlinear waves
18. Use the method of Riemann invariants to show that the solution to
equations (81) of 10S subject to the initial data
Ul(X, 0)= 1, u2(x,0)=sinx
is
Ul(X, t) = 1+![sin (x - t)-sin (x + t)],
U2(X, t) = ![sin (x - t)+sin (x + t)].
19. Show, using the equations of question (5) above, that when the
sea-bed is horizontal the Riemann invariants for the long water wave
approximation are
2u + c = r{f3) along C(l) characteristics,
and
2u - c = s(a) along C(2) characteristics.
20. Show by working directly with the Riemann invariants for one-
dimensional unsteady isentropic gas flow, as described by equations
(10), (ll)of 100, that adjacentto a constant state (uo, ao, Po) bounded
by a C(I) characteristic, du = (ao/ Po) dp. Show also that if this state is
bounded by a C(2) characteristic then du = -(ao/Po) dp. Hence verify
the conclusions of 104.
21. Show that the path followed by a gas particle in the centred simple
wave flow discussed at the end of 107 has the equation
(
aot )[ (to) (')'-1)/(')'+1) ]
x = - (y+ 1) - -2 ,
y-1 t
where to is the time at which the particle path crosses the line x = aot.
22. Use the jump conditions across a gas shock derived in 108 to
show that in terms of the Mach number M
o
= uo/ ao ahead of the
shock:
pdpo = UO/Ul = (y +
pdpo = +l)}-{(y -l)/(y+I)},
and that in terms of M
o
, the Mach number M
1
behind the shock is
Mi = {2 +(y (y-1)}.
Examples 221
23. The equations of the long wave approximation for water waves
can be expressed in the form
ah ah au
-+u-+h-=O,
at ax ax
and
au au ah
-+u-+g-=o,
at ax ax
where g is the acceleration due to gravity, u is the horizontal compo-
nent of the water velocity and h is the depth of the water. By re-writing
the first equation in conservation form, and by multiplying each
equation by a suitable factor and adding to form another equation
which can also be expressed in conservation form, show that across a
bore moving with speed X:
X[h] = [uh],
and
X[uh] = [u
2
h +tgh
2
].
Hence show that if side of the discontinuity lies to the left of side 1,
and the bore moves into water of depth h
o
which is at rest, the speed of
propagation of the bore is
where hI is the water depth behind the bore, and that the water speed
uI behind the bore is
-( h
o
)
uI=A I-hI.
Answers
Chapter 1
(2) 21T/(/2+ m
2
)l/2;
(3) ,\ = 21T/(A
2
+B
2
+c
2
i/2, velocity=,\D/21T;
(7) A sin nx exp (-cnt);
(8) A exp {-n(x +ct)};
(9) A sin px sin cpt;
(10) A exp (_p2t ) sin px, p =1T/ /, 21T/ /, ... ;
(11) Show that e= const., .,., = const., ( = const. form an orthogonal system of
coordinates, and transform V
2
t/J in terms of e, .,." (. The result is t/J =
XU)Y(.,.,)Z)T(t), where m, p and q are arbitrary constants, and
s ~ , ~ sinh, ~ - Si:::': , X-I; p' sinh' fX=q'X,
1 d. d Y m
2
2 2 2
-.--sm.,.,-- . Y+p sm ."Y=-q Y,
sm.,., d." d." sm
2
."
d
2
z d
2
T C
2
p2
-=-m
2
Z-=--T
dz
2
, dt
2
a
2
'
Chapter 2
(1) 15 m sec-l;
(2) lFa
2
k
2
sin
2
kct, lFa
2
k
2
cos
2
kct;
(3) 1/16;
(r+!)1Tx . (r+!)1Tct , 3/ 1)4 4
(5) y =Ib, cos sm ,b, = (-1) 4a {r+2 1T c;
a a
(6) 8pa
s
/15;
r1TX (r1Tct )
(7) y =a, cos -/- cos -/-+E, ;
Answers 223
. 27e
2
a
2
p.
(8) energy 10 rth normal mode = 41 2 2 sm
2
-; sum= 3e
2
a
2
p/41;
3
(11) where e. tan (pI/e.) =-e2 tan (p1/e2), cf=F/pl' d=F/P2'
Chapter 3
(1) (2,2) and (4,1): in general (2m, n) and (2n, m);
(2) T= A 2 sin
2
net [J {1
m
(nr)fr dr,
net1
4
[n
2
{1:"(nr)}2+ m2{lm(nr)}2/r2]rdr,
which becomes, after integration by parts,
V = 2 cos
2
net 1
4
{lm(nr)}2r dr;
(3) 391 per sec.;
(4) z =A sin (31T}'/a-cos
(5) z = A sin a) sin b) cos p2p = m
2
TtI a 2 +n
2
T
2
/ b
2
.
Chapter 4
(1) 2 km per sec.;
(4) R ={J(A
1
Pl)-J(A2P2)}2.
J(A.Pl)+J(A
2
P2) ,
(5)
l:-A . }.
'!l - , sm I cos I +, ,
(7) 1690 sec., 0252 sec.;
(8) Period = where k
2
- 3k cot nl +cot
2
nl = 1, k = Mln/m.
Chapter 5
1 2 2 ) 1 2' 2 )
(1) 4gpla, cos -1-+" 4gpla, sm -1-+';
(2) radial velocity -(gAle) cos m81:"(nr) sin (net +), transverse velocity
(gAm/ner)sin m81
m
(nr) sin (net+), amplitude
(3) (=A r
2
=p2+q2 and kinetic
energy = igpA2a sin
2
a), potential energy = 19pA2a2 cos
2
a);
224 Answers
x P p1TX q1Ty
(4) -=-tan-cot-;
Y q a a
(8) X: Y:Z= nrl:n(nr):-mlm(nr) tan m(J: nrlm(nr)
(9) Same as in equations (39) to (41) except that 1- m = 5k/2, where k =
0, 1,2, ....
Chapter 6
(2) Reflection coefficient R ={l
transmission coefficient T= {l +
(5) Period = 21T/pC, where (abp2 +1) sin pCb - a) = pCb - a) cos pCb - a);
(7) 166 per sec.
Chapter 7
(2) H" = Hz = 0, Hy = -A sin nx sin nct;
(4) 9 28', 9 36';
(7) 12/13 of the incident energy is transmitted;
(8) 100 20';
Chapter 8
(1) 332 km per sec., 249 per sec.;
(3) a +c/2, b/2, c/4;
{
2 }
(5) v: ,
where V = wave velocity;
(6) U=!C+21TT/Apc.
Chapter 9
(1) One possibility would be to set u = ay/at+ay/ax and v = ay/at-ay/ax,
there are many others;
(2) au+A
t
au+A
2
aU+A
3
au=0
at ax ay az
Answers 225
with
(3) au+Aau =0
at ax
p 0 0'"
u 0 0 I
~ ~ ~ J
o 0 Pl
; ~ ~ I
o 0 wJ
aU aF
(4) -at +ax =0
with U defined as above and
au aF
(5) -+-=0
at ax
with
o
1/EoXe
o
o
-l/EoXel
o .
o I'
o J
(7) Characteristic curves: x = ~ +t sin ~ through point U. 0) of initial line.
Implicit solution: u = sin (x - ut)
Envelope in parametric form: x =~ +t sin ~ t =-1/cos ~ .
Index
Absorption coefficient, 135
Adiabatic, 104
Advanced
potentials, 161
times, 161
Ampere's Rule, 119
Amplitude, 2
modulation, 152
Amplitudes, partial, 46
Anharmonic lattice waves, 74-7
Anomalous dispersion, 154
Antinodes,6
Bars and springs
longitudinal waves in, 67-74
variable cross-section of, 77
Basins, tides in, 84, 88, 91-4
Beats, 152
frequency of, 152
Bell, vibrations of, 64
Bernoulli's equation, 80, 90, 99, 110
Bore, 184, 221
Boundary conditions, 1, 19, 40, 44, 51,
68,87,90,99,107,111
fixed,29
free, 29
Boundary value problem, 25
mixed, 25, 34
Brewster's angle, 132
Capillary waves,,98-100
Cauchy data, 19
Cavitation speed, 205
Characteristic curves, 21, 182, 188, 195
envelope of, 184, 203
Chladni's figures, 64
Circularly polarised light, 126
Combination tones, 152
Compatibility conditions across charac-
teristics, 193
Compressible fluid, 104
Compression wave, 201, 215
Condensation, 105
Conductivity, 118
Conical pipe, sound waves in, 112
Conservation laws, 180
matrix form, 181
Constant of separation, 9
Constitutive relations, 119
Contact discontinuities, 213
Continuous dependence of solution, 22
Coordinates, normal, 50, 62, 69
Cutoff frequency, 116, 142
D'Alembert, 7
D' Alembert's formula, 20, 219
Damping, 15,52
Decay, modulus of, 15.
Degenerative vibrations, 62
Derivative
material, 80
total, 80
Dielectric displacement, 118
Diffraction
of light, 167
at a pin-hole, 164, 167
Fraunhofer theory, 167
Dispersion, 18, 153
anomalous, 154
relation, 18
Displacement current, Maxwell's, 120,
134,136
Disturbed region, 189
Disturbed state, 191
Domain
of dependence, 20
of determinacy, 20
Doppler effect, 150
Drude,133
Eigenfunction, 44, 49
Electric
and magnetic field strengths, 118
waves, 118-45
Elliptically polarised light, 126
End correction, 107
Energy integral method, 54
Energy
113
loss of, 138
potential, 38, 47, 62,69,95, 113
rate transmitted, 96, 126, 154
Entropy inequality, 215
Equation of
telegraphy, 15, 17,42, 134
wave motion, 1-30, 189
complex solutions, 16-17
Expansion wave, 201, 202, 215
Exponential horn, 115
Field strengths, electric and magnetic, 118
Fraunhofer diffraction theory, 167
Free surface, 81, 98
Frequency, 3
modulation, 152
Fresnel's principle, 16.4
Fundamental, 48, 64, 73, 108
Gauss'theorem, 119
Gaussian wave packet, 155
General considerations for waves, 149-74
Ground note, 48
Group velocity, 97, 152, 155, 157
Half-width, 156
Harmonic wave, 2, 16-18
Helmholtz equation, 142, 147
Horn, 112, 115
Huygens' Principle, 161, 164
Hyperbolic, totally, 188, 194
Inclination factor, 154
Incompressible liquid, 79
Index refractive, 121, 133
Induction, magnetic, 118
Inhomogeneous wave equation, 23-5, 32
Initial conditions, 19
Intensity, 167
Internal or total reflection, 132
Isothermal, 104
Joule heat, 138
Kinetic energy
in bars, 69
in liquids, 95
in membranes, 63
of sound, 113
in strings, 37, 47
Kirchhoff, 161
Korteweg-de Vries equation, 76
Index 227
Lenz's law of induction, 120
Light, velocity of, 121
Liquids, waves in, 79-101
Long waves in shallowwater, 81, 217, 221
Longitudinal waves, 35
in bars and springs, 67-77, 104
Lowest frequency, 48
Mach number, 218
Magnetic and electric field strengths, 118
Maxwell's displacement current, 120,
134, 136
Maxwell's equations, 118
Maxwell's relation, 121
Membranes, waves in, 59-65
Mersenne's law, 48
Mode, normal, 44,47,48,50,52,61,63,
70, 108, 112
Modulation
amplitude, 152
frequency, 152
phase, 152
Modulus of decay, 15
Nodal planes, 6
Nodes, 6
Non-conducting media, 120
Normal coordinates, 49, 62, 69
Normal modes
in bars, 70
in circular membranes, 63
in rectangular membranes, 64
in sound waves in pipes, 107, 112
in strings, 43-5, 48, 50, 52
Observer, moving, 150
Organ pipe, 108
Overtones, 48, 64
Packet, wave, 155
Partial amplitudes, 46
Paths of particles, 88, 94
Period,2
equation, 52, 94, 112
Phase, 3, 16, 152
Pin-hole, 164, 167
Pipes, sound waves in, 107-12
Piston problem, 202
Pitch,48
Plane
nodal,6
of polarisation, 126
polarised light, 126
wave, 4
Polarisation, plane of, 126
Polarising angle, 132
228 Index
Potential
advanced, 161
electric, 122, 123
energy in bars, 69
energy in liquids, 95
energy in membranes, 63
energy in sound, 113
energy in strings, 37, 47
magnetic or vector, 122, 123
retarded, 161, 171
velocity, 79,90, 104, 109
Poynting vector, 120, 126, 138
Pressure, radiation, 138
Principle of superposition, 6, 150, 155,
157
Profile wave, 1
Progressive waves, 6, 13, 37, 40, 41., 43,
53, 84, 88, 91, 94, 99, 112, :114,
124-38
Quasilinear equation, 76, 179
Range of influence, 21
Rankine-Hugoniot relation, 211, 214
Reduction to a steady wave, 53, 88
Reflection
coefficient, 41, 131, 137
of light waves, 127
total or internal, 132 .
Refraction of light waves, 127
Refractive index, 121, 132
complex, 134
Relaxation, time of, 124
Resistance, specific, 118
Retarded
potential, 161, 171
time, 161
Riemann invariants, 196
Ripples, 100
Screen, 164, 165
Separation
constant, 9
of variables, 9
Shock wave, 210
back,213
front, 213
Simple waves, 200, 203
Skin effect, 138
Snell's law, 129
Solution by reflection, 27-9, 34
Sound
velocity of, 106
waves, 104-16
Source, moving, 149
Springs and bars
longitudinal waves in, 61-77
vibration of, 71
Stationary waves, 6, 45,51,61,63,68,92,
111
Strings
normal modes, 44
waves on, 35-56
St Venant's Principle, 164
Superposition, principle of, 6, 150, 155,
157
Surface
free, 81, 98
tension, 81, 98
waves in liquids, 81, 90-7
Telegraphy, equation of, 15, 17, 32, 42,
134
Tidal waves, 81-9
Time of relaxation, 124
Tone, 48
combination, 152
Total or internal reflection, 132
Transmission coefficient, 41, 131, 136
Transverse waves, 35, 59, 124
electric TE, 141
Electromagnetic TEM, 141
magnetic TM, 141
Undisturbed region, 189
Uniqueness, 54, 65
Vector, Poynting, 120, 126, 138
Velocity
groups, 97, 152, 155, 157
of light, 121
Velocity
of sound, 106
potential, 79, 90, 104, 109
wave, 153
Vibrations, degenerate, 62
Wave
capillary, 98-100
electric, 118-45
equation, 5, 23
harmonic, 2, 16-18
in bars and springs, 67-77
in inhomogeneous medium, 171, 177
in liquids, 79-101
in membranes, 59-65
lattice, 74
Wave (contd.)
long, in shallow water, 81
longitudinal, 35,67-77, 104
motion, equation of, 1-30,5
number, 3
on strings, 35-56
packet, 155
plane, 4
profile, 1
progressive, 6, 13, 37, 40, 41, 43, 53,
84,88,91,94,99,112,114,124-38
reduction to a steady, 53; 88
relatively undistorted, 18
shock, 207, 210,215
simple, 200, 203
sound, 104-16
stationary, 6, 45, 51, 61, 63, 68, 92,111
Index 229
Wave (contd.)
steepening, 184
surface, 81, 90-7
tidal,81-9
transverse, 35, 59, 124
velocity, 153
Wavefront, 4, 189
bounding constant state, 191
physical, 189
solution surface, 189
trace, 189
Waveguide, 139
Wavelength, 2
cutoff, 144
freespace, 144
guide, 144
WKBJ method, 171, 177