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STIRLING
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Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2012 with funding from
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http://archive.org/details/ladysmanualoffan1859pull
THE
LADY'S MANUAL OF FANCY-WORK:
A COMPLETE INSTRUCTOR IN EVERY VARIETY OP
ORNAMENTAL NEEDLE-WOM;
INCLUDING
APPLIQUE, EMBROIDERY, FRENCH EMBRO'RY, TAP'SE D'AUXERRE
BEAD-WORK, GOLDEN TAPESTRY, NETTING, TAPE-WORK,
BERLIN- WORK, KNITTING, ORNE-WORK, TATTING,
BRAIDING, KNOTTING, PATCH-WORK, TRANSFERRING,
BOBBIN-WORK, LACE-WORK, POINT LACE, VELVET BALLS,
CROCHET, MUSLIN-WORK, POTICHOMANIE, WIRE-WORK,
SHADING AND COLORING, PRINTERS' MARKS, ETC., ETC.
With a List of Materials, and Hints for their Selection ; Advice on Making
up and Trimming ; a Catalogue of Articles suitable for Wedding,
Birthday, and Xew Year Gifts; and a Glossary of
French and German terms used in Xeedle-work,
not to be found in any Dictionary.
. THE WHOLE BEING A COMPLETE
LEXICON OF FAXCY NEEDLE-WORK.
BY MRS. T>TJTuJL>JN,
(AIGUILLETTE,)
AUTHOR OF "THE MANUAL OF THE WARDROBE," "THE COURT PARTIAL,"
'"
MATERNAL COUN-
SELS," ETC.
;
EDITOR OF "THE LONDON" REVIEW" AND "THE LONDON AND PARIS
GAZETTE OF FASHION'," AND DIRECTOR OF THE WORKTABLE OF FRANK
LESLIE'S MAGAZINE, ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE OF ART, LADY'S
COMPANION', LADY'S NEWSPAPER, BELLE ASSEMBLEE,
,
HOME CIRCLE, DOMESTIC MAGAZINE,
ILLUSTRATED LONDON MAGAZINE, AND FAMILY FRIEND.
Illustrated with over 300 Engravings, by the best Artists.
XEW YORK:
3DICII &z I^XTZGIiin^LlD, PUBLISHERS.
1S59.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the yenr 1858, by
DICK & FITZGERALD,
la the Cleric's Office of Uie District Court of the United States, for th Southern District of New York.
W, H.
'ii>
Eowabd 0. JsMKixa, Printer,
CONTENTS.
PAGE
IXTRODCCTION, 9
APPLIQUE, IT
Patent, 18
BEAD-WORK 19
Pound Bead, 20
0. P. Bead, 21
Weaving Pound Beads, 22
0. P. Bead Vases, 22
Bead Collars, 23
BERLIN-WORK,
To Frame Canvas and Cloth,
Tent-stitch,
Cross-stitch,
Tapestry or Gobelin-stitch,
German-stitch,
Irish-stitch,
Raised Berlin-work,
Figure and Landscape Patterns,.
.
Armorial Bearings,
Patterns on Canvas,
Gem and Set Patterns,
Silk Canvas-work,
Tapestry Designs,
Golden Tapestry Patterns,
Crochet and Knitted Berlin-work,
To Join Canvas,
To Press Finished work,
2i
BOBBIN-WORK,
Chain-stitch, .
Herringbone,
PAGE
Double Herringbone,
83
Close Herringbone,
84
Long Brussels,
_ 34
BRAIDING,
84
Raised Braiding,
35
Cord Braiding,
35
Cotton Braiding,
36
Bead Braiding,
86
BRODERIE ANGLAISE,
36
Broderie a la Minute,
37
"
en lacet,
37
CROCHET,
37
Holding Materials,
38
Chain or Foundation-stitch, 38
Sl
;
p-stitch,
39
Single Crochet,
39
Short Double Crochet, 39
Double Crochet,
39
Short Treble Crochet,
40
Treble Crochet,
40
Half Long Treble,
40
Long Treble,
40
Braid Chain-stitch,
40
Square Crochet,
41
Long Square Crochet,
41
Octagons and Hexagons, 41
To increase a Square at each edge, 41
To decrease at each edge, 42
Ribbed Crochet, 42
Crochet Cross-stitch, 42
Princess Frederic William Stitch,.
.
43
IV
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Bead Crochet, 44
To use several Colors, 44
To work from the Centre, 45
Missing Stitches, 45
To mark the commencement, 45
To join on, 46
Diamond Open-hem, 46
Crochet Bead Jewelry, 46
EMBROIDERY, 47
French Knots, 49
Raised Embroidery, 49
Damask Embroider}', 49
Knitted Embroidery, 50
Another Knitted Embroidery, 51
Fluted Embroidery, 51
GUIPURE-WORK, 52
Irish Guipure, 53
IIOXITOX LACE IX CROCHET, .... 54
KNITTING, 55
Position of the hands,
55
Casting on,
56
To Knit, 57
To Purl,
57
Slip-stitch
57
Twist-stitch, 57
Twist Purl-stitch,
57
To make Stitches,
58
To raise a Stitch,
58
Modes of Decreasing,
58
To join,
59
To ca.-t off,
59
To close the Toe of a Sock, etc., ... 59
Brioche-stitch, 60
:
Knitting,
CO
Double Herringbone, CO
Single Herringbone, CO
Open-hem,
CO
mal Open hem, co
ititch, CI
Damask Patterns, ci
02
unond, 02
Diamond, 02
Bpider-net,
68
Large Diamond, g.t
Loaange, C4
PAGE
Half Diamond-stitch, 64
Plait-stitch, 64
Myrtle Leaf, 65
Cable, 05
Coronet, 66
Feather, 66
Scallop Shell, 67
Ridge, 68
Frill Knitting, 68
Chinchilla Fur Trimming, 69
Honeycomb, 69
Diamond Honeycomb, 70
Imitation Moss, 70
KNOTTING, 71
LACE-WORK, 72
Canvas Lace-work, 72
MUSLIN-WORK, 73
Broderie Anglaise, 73
Rose Scalloping, 74
Scallops, 75
Eyelet-holes, 75
Chinese Eyelet-holes, 75
Spots, 75
French Embroidery,
77
Wheels, 7S
Shell-stitch, 83
Cross-stitch, 83
Fancy Stitches, 83
NETTING, 84
The Plain Stitch, 84
Square Netting, 85
Oblong, 85
Honeycomb,
S5
Round,
86
Grecian,
86
Long Twist-stitch,
86
French Ground,
S7
Spotted,
87
Diamond,
88
Large
Diamond,
88
Spotted Diamond,
89
Leaf
89
Double-ttltch,
90
Long stitch,
90
With Beads,
,., 90
CONTEXTS.
PAGE
Darned Netting, 90
Flanders Lace, 90
Embroidery on Netting, 91
Vandyke Square Netting, 91
Another Pointed Edge, 92
Shell Edging, 92
Another Shell, 92
Another Lace, 93
Another Edging, 93
ORNE CROCHET AND KNITTING,.. 94
Orne Balls, 94
PATCHWORK, 95
TOINT LACE, 98
Spanish Rose Point, 99
Italian Point, 99
Modern Point, 100
Materials, 101
The Outlines, 101
Brussels Edge, 102
Sorrento Edge,
102
Venetian,
103
Little Venetian,
103
To fasten the Thread, 103
LACES, 103
Brussels, 103
Long Brussels, 103
Lined, or Filled Brussels 104
Venetian Lace, 104
Sorrento Lace, 104
English Lace 104
Open English, 105
English Rosettes, 105
Henriquez Lace, 106
Cordovan Lace, 106
Valenciennes, 106
Foundation, 106
Antwerp, 107
Open Antwerp, 107
Spotted Lace, 103
Venetian Spotted, 108
E^calier-stitch, 108
Cadiz Lace, 108
Fan Lace,
109
Barcelona, 109
Florentine, 109
PAGE
Roman,
109
Mechlin Wheels, 110
Bees' Wing Lace,
110
BARS,
Ill
Venetian,
Ill
Edged Venetian 112
Dotted Venetian, 112
Sorrento Bars, 112
Sorrento-edged Bars, 112
Point-d'Alencnn,
112
English Bars,
112
Raleigh Bars,
112
Point Edge
113
Grounding Bars, 114
Veining, 114
POTICHOMANIE, 115
SWISS LACE, 118
TAMBOUR-WORK, 119
TAMBOURED NETTING, 120
TAPISSERIE D'AUXERRE, 121
TAPE-WORK, 121
TATTING, 122
The Stitch, 122
The Picot, 123
To Join, 124
Bars, 124
To Join on a new Thread, 125
The Materials, 125
TRANSFERRING, 125
VELVET BALLS, 126
WIRE-WORK, 127
Baskets and Vases, 127
Wire Canvas-work, 129
PRINTERS' MARKS, 129
SHADING AND COLORING, 131
LEAVES,
131
Bright Green Rose Leaf, 131
Dark Rose Leaf, 132
VI CONTEXTS.
PAGE
Faded Leaf, 132
White Roses and other Flowers,. . . 132
Damask Roses,
132
Pink Flowers, 132
Yellow Flowers, .
132
Light Blue,
132
Dark Blue
132
Purple, 132
Combinations of Colors, 132
KNITTED EDGINGS, 135
Shawl Border, 135
Diamond Spotted Edging, 135
Three-hole Point, 136
Six-hole Point, 136
Five-hole 136
Deep Vandyke, 136
Scalloped, 136
Deep Lace,
137
PATTERNS
137
Knitted Driving Glove,
137
Lady's Winter Over-glove, 139
Knitted Rigolette, 139
Knitted Basque for a Child, . . . . 141
Netted Mittens in Maltese Lace, .. 143
Imitation Noniton Lace, 144
Guipure Embroidery, 146
Coral Pattern Guipure Sleeve, 146
Patent Applique Slippers, 147
Doyley for Fruit Dish, 147
Striped Crochet Tidy, 147
Gloucester Point Collar, 148
Embroidered Cuff, 149
Medallion Sleeve, 149
Applique Smoking Cap, 149
Lamp
Mat (Berlin-Work), 150
Braided Dinner Hat, 150
Guipure Collar, 160
Maltese Lace Sleeve, 151
ii,iy for i Prte-dleu, 151
Modern Point
foliar,
162
fool Ottoman 152
i
Bead Border, 168
1
1 1 1 1 boe, 168
Carriage Bag, 164
Invalid'! Whatnot, 164
i'>
|gn
f"r
Darned I andj ke N<
t-
tlng,
im
m . .::.
W
ii
Ion. ..... 166
PAGE
Braided Slipper, 155
Applique Toilet Cushion, 155
Handsome Mat in 0. P. Bead-work, 156
Infant's Embroidered Shoe, 156
Suspension Flower Vase, 157
Vase Mat, 157
Patchwork Design, 157
Design for Suspenders, 153
Book Mark, 159
Collar and Cuff a la Poste, 159
Piccolomini Collar and Cuff, 159
Spanish Point Sleeve, 160
Border for a Table Cover, 160
Trimming in Tatting, 161
MATERIALS, 163
APPLIQUE CLOTH, 163
BEADS, 163
Bohemian or O. P., 163
Pound, 164
Seed, 165
Fancy, 165
Bugles, 165
Metal Beads, 166
Berlin Patterns, 166
O. P. Berlin Patterns, 167
BRAIDS, 167
Silk Braids, 167
Plain Russian, 167
Alliance, 167
Star, 168
Eugenie, 168
Sardinian, 168
^
Albert, 168
*
Broad Silk Braid, 163
Soutache, 16S
Gold and Silver Braid, 16S
Cotton BraidsFrench White Cot-
ton, ... 16S
Russian Cotton, 169
Waved Braid, 109
Eugenie Tap", 169
Linen Braids, 169
Cotton Alliance, 1 09
Worsted, 169
Mohair, 169
BOURDON 109
CONTENTS. Vll
PAGE
BULLION, 169
CANNETILLE, 169
CANVAS, 170
French Cotton, 170
English, 170
German, 170
Silk, 171
Imitation Silk, 171
Brace, 171
Railway, 171
Mosaic, 171
Java, 171
To Select Canvas, 171
CHENILLE, 172
CLOTH-WORK, 172
CORDS, 173
Crochet, 173
Fancy Silk, 173
Crystal Twine, 173
Crochet Twine, 173
COTTONS, 173
EVANS' Boar's Head Crochet, Sewing,
and Machine, 175
Royal Glace, 175
Royal Embroidery, 175
French Embroidery, 175
Tatting Cotton, 176
Knitting 176
Moravian, 176
Mechlenburg Thread, 176
Beading Cotton, 176
Colored Embroidery, 176
Table of Sizes of Cotton, 176
Agent for the Cottons, 177
FRINGES, 177
0. P. Bead, 177
Pound Bead Fringe, 177
Silk Fringe, 173
Orne Fringe, 179
CIMP, 179
QAUGE, 179
KNITTING IMPLEMENTS, 180
PAGE
LITEACX, 180
MUSLINS, 1S0
NEEDLES, 180
Crochet Hooks, 181
Knitting Needles, 181
Elliptics, 181
Rug Needles, 182
Tapestry, 182
Sewing, 182
Netting, 182
Beading, 182
NET, 182
Bobbinet, 182
Filet, 133
Guipure, 183
ORNF. BALLS, 1S3
ORN FRINGE BALLS, 183
PASSEMENTERIE, 183
PENWIPER ORNAMENTS, 1S4
PERFORATED CARDBOARD, 184
PIQU, 184
TOINT PAPER, 184
POUNCED PATTERNS, 185
I
RINGS, 185
SILKS, 186
Crochet, 186
Netting, 186
Sole d'Avignon, 186
Dacca, 186
Floss, 186
Filoselle, 186
China, 187
Sewing, 1S7
Skeleton Frames 187
Tabouret, 137
Toile Circe, 137
Tracing Paper, IS?
CONTEXTS.
PAGE
TRIMMINGS, 1S3
Sofa Cushions, 1S3
Smoking Caps, 1SS
Banner Screens, 1SS
Hand Screens, 1SS
Bars, 1SS
Eugenie Bags, 1SS
Marquise Bags, 1SS
Purses, 1SS
Tobacco Bags, 1S9
"Whatnots, 1S9
Knitted Scarfs, etc., 1S9
WOOLS, 1S9
Berlin or Zephyr, 1S9
Shaded, 1S9
Ombre, 190
Pearl 190
Crystal, 190
Fleecy, 190
Angola, ... 190
Lamb's 190
Worsted, 190
Patent Orne Balls, 190
Orne Fringe Balls, 191
PAGE
Shetland Wool, 191
Pyrenees, 191
Crewels, 191
MAKING UP FANCY-WORK, 192
Note-cases, etc., 192
Shaving Books, 193
Sofa Cushions, 193
Carriage Bags, 193
Tobacco Bags, 194
Hand or Eugenie Bags, 194
Fancy Bags, 195
Banner Screens, 196
Smoking Caps, 195
Mats, 195
Hand Screens, 196
"Whatnots, 196
To Quill Ribbon, 197
LIST OF PRESENTS, 193
OBSOLETE ARTICLES, 200
GLOSSARY, , 201
POSTSCRIPT, 206
INTRODUCTION.
Foe years I had cherished, almost hopelessly, two earnest wishes
:
one was to be enabled to visit, and become acquainted with America
!
the Paradise of women, respected,as the theatre of the noblest
and purest struggle for freedom ever exhibited in the history of the
world ! loved,as having been the home of my fathers, ere, in remem-
bering they were royalists, they forgot that they were Americans!

endeared still more as the spot where dwelt the dearest and best of
all my dear and good friends. I had listened to her glowing descrip-
tions of the beauties of the Hudson, and the glories of Niagaraof
the blue and lofty skies, and bright waters of the Bay of Xew York

until I turned, with unspeakable weariness, from the contempla-

tion of the wilderness of brick and mortar which formed the
world immediately surrounding methe world of London ! So
entirely did I feel myself a fixed inhabitant of that overgrown
ant-hill, that even my ardent wishes to see America hardly jus-
tified the promise to my friend that some day I would certainly
join her in her "Western home. Nothing seemed more improbable;
but there is a popular French proverb, in the truth of which I have
unbounded confidence: it asserts that
u
Ce que femme xeut, Bieu
zeut," or, liberally translated, ""What woman wishes, God wills:'
1
and I, for one, believe we rarely form any earnest and rational desire
without having, at some time or other, the opportunity of gratifying
it ; especially if we happen to be largely endowed with that quality
which our friends call Determination, and our enemies stigmatize as
Obstinacy.
X INTRODUCTION.
At all events, I now date from Xew York, hoping (what were life
without hope?) to become acquainted, throughout its length and
breadth, with a land that charms me more every day that I live in it.
This wish, it seems, is in course of realization! Strange, that at the
same time, I should be enabled to fulfill another very earnest, though
different desire : to write and publish the work of which this is the
introduction.
Year after year, during my engagements on the Work-table of the
leading periodicals of the London press, I became more and more
painfully aware of the necessity that existed for a thorough guide to
every branch of Fancy-work. Books there were, innumerable, on the
subject; I myself had contributed to their number in no slight
degreebooks on crochet, on netting, on knitting, on one or several
sorts of fashionable workbut they were not sufficiently comprehen-
sive : they treated only of the fashions of the day, ignoring all that
happened to be out of vogue. They were, therefore, one and all,
more ephemeral productions than the book I contemplated ought to
be. True ! there is nothing new under the sun ; that which appears
as a novelty in the present day, is always a revival of some fashion
of former times ; hence the need that a complete guide to Fancy-
work should not confine itself merely to that in vogue at the time.
It should comprehend explanations of all the kinds that ever have
been fashionable, since it is quite probable that they may again be so
in the course of a very few years.
Nor is instruction in the mere producing of certain stitches all
th.it such a hook
should contain. It is quite as requisite to know
how to
Beleot materials to choose the good and reject the inferior;
dot
i- it
one person in a hundred who is even acquainted byname
with the
different sorts
of materials. A catalogue raisonni, an
explanatory list
of tin-
articles used in
Fancy-work, always held in
i!. J
mind a
prominent
place
as a part of the contemplatedno, only
I
hook.
INTRODUCTION.
Xj
The large trade done in making up finished work for ladies who,
probably, if they knew what was to be done, would do it infinitely
better and more tastefully themselves than it ever is at stores, proved
that this sort of instruction also was indispensable; and to many
who live at a distance from large cities, a mere list of the sorts of
work in existence has a value of itself.
Finally, a glossary of the technical terms used for the work-table
by the French and Germans appeared desirable, because they were
not to be found in any dictionary ; and this deficiency proved, in
many cases, a great hindrance to those who were excellent French
and German scholars, but who, from want of intercourse with the
natives, had never had an opportunity of learning these technical
phrases.
Such have been the principal waxts in the Fancy-work way,
developed to me during the years I have devoted to the subject
;
and from the correspondence I maintained with many hundreds of
ladies, not only in every part of the United Kingdom, but in Ame-
rica, Australia, India, the Mauritius, and even France and Spain.
There was another evil brought about by this absence of an
acknowledged guidethe vast space taken up in the magazines
every month, by reiterations of instructions (always necessary for
new subscribers), and references to former volumes, which perhaps
the reader did not possess. The Lexicon should serve to explain all
difficulties, not in present designs only, but also in past and future
ones.
I have said I looked almost hopelessly on this evident necessity,
seeing hardly a possibility of carrying out my wish to remedy it.
My daily avocations pressed too heavily on me, and, besides, it
needed a certain elasticity of spirits,- a certain
freshness of intellect,
to accomplish what I saw ought to be done
;
and my
heart and
brain were alike too wearied and worn by the eternal
turmoil of
London life. The constant
interruptions
of ladies for consultations,
Xll
i
INTRODUCTION.
and printers
7
boys for copyto say nothing of other hindrances of a
more entirely personal natureforbade my attempting such an
undertaking with any chance of success. Once, indeed, a strong
conviction of its necessity induced me to attempt it ; nor should I
have abandoned the labor, but for a disgraceful trick on the part of
the publisher, which so disgusted me that I declined further interest
in the matter ; and the work now stands offering various pieces of
information, more curious than valuable to the purchasersuch as
tat Brussels net is a metal, with other choice matter, "worth a
sponge."
So I wished, without hoping, to give to my many friends such a
Lexicon of Xeedle-work as should be worthy both of them and of
myself; until, in the realization of my first desire, I found also the
means of fulfilling my second.
Sailing up the glorious Iludson, I began to feel conscious of re-
newed energy and ambitionwandering, day by day, on the High-
lands, inhaling the aroma of the fresh springing pines, gathering
bouquets of the beautiful wild flowers of the country, and pausing
every few steps to drink in the glory of its blue hills, or climbing
some ascent to gain a more extended view of its charmswith
nothing to distract my mind but the gambols of my canine com-
panions (always, to my mind, the pleasantest in such rambles), my
thoughts turned to the accomplishment of my long-cherished wish;
and I felt at once the power and the will to carry it out. May I
hope that it may be as useful as I intend it to be. I may not have
done
all that could be done; but at least I have not, knowingly, left
one thing undone, great or small, which could contribute to make it
universally acceptable. All that my long study and practice of the
ftrt itself
and
my intimate
acquaintance with the requirements!
of
Hrho
arc
no1
so familiar with it,
COUld suggest,
have been
brought to L'-ar iii
its design and
execution.
I am
peculiarly fortunate, top, in the
period
of its production.
INTRODUCTION.
Xlll
The era of the Atlantic Telegraph, is also that of the Sewing-
Machine ! the time when women, disenthralled in a great measure
from the drudgery and weariness of plain needle-work by its exten-
sive introduction, will have more time to acquire, among other charm-
ing accomplishments, that of Fancy Needle-work, which is not only a
pleasant and ever-varying resource against ennui, but a direct agent
in the cultivation of home pleasures and home affections. Does not
a gift become trebly valuable when the time and thoughts, as well as
the mere money of the giver, are represented in it ? Is any rank too
hnmble or too exalted for the cultivation of this" pleasure ? The
daughters of Queen Victoria, one and all, make birthday and Christ-
mas family gifts of the work of their own hands
;
and at the death
of the late Czar of Russia, a pair of slippers, worked in a single
pattern by his empress, and given to him on their marriage, thirty
years before, were found in his private chamber. True, the wealthy
only, until recently, have had time to bestow, to any great extent,
on Fancy-work
;
but the day does not seem to me very distant
when a Wheeler & Wilson sewing-machine will bo found in every
household, as a matter of course, just as much as stoves or chairs.
From the manner in which the manufacture of this particular com-
pany was first brought before me, I was convinced that it held a pre-
eminent place among those brought before the public. Inspecting
some machine-stitched goods, I questioned whether they might not,
like some shirt-bosoms I had recently seen, cut along each line of
sewing on the first or second washing.
"
Oh, no, madam ! These are stitched by a "Wheeler & Wilson
machine," answered the store-keeper, as if that name was an un-
ilonable guarantee of excellence.
''But will they iron well? Some of the machine stitches catch'
the iron, and make a ridge."
'-
Ah, that's not the Wheeler & Wilson's lock-stitch. See, madam,
it is precisely the same on both sides
!"
XIV INTRODUCTION.
Curious to know whether this gentleman's opinion was shared by
his fraternity in general, I continued my researches ; and finding
popular opinion confirmed by the verdict of the scientific, ended by
a very strong conviction of the superior character of the Wheeler
& Wilson sewing-machine. And now, I earnestly advise all my
friends to possess one ; if only to secure abundance of time for all
the ornamental work that I hope to aid them in acquiring.
I have alluded to my singular good fortune, in visiting America at
a time when I may reasonably hope to find a more than usually free
field for my exertions.
Truly, the epoch in which we live is full of marvels ! the mighty
iron band which now unites America and her Fatherland will prove
not less a moral than a tangible link between the peoples ; well may
the successful laying of the Atlantic Telegraph be hailed with joy by
all who see in it a pledge of dearer and closer union between two
such nations as England and America.
But even this greatest achievement of the age does not, to my
mind, carry with it so much assurance of social improvement as the
universality of the SEWING MACHINE, which (affecting the comfort
of women in every class of society, altering beyond recognition the
situation of the actual toiler, ameliorating that of the less pitied, but
not less pitiable household drudge, the wife, whose limited income
compels her to perform all her needlework herself, and who hitherto
lias been occupied incessantly in the dreary mechanical toil, to the
total neglect of all those accomplishments and charms by which, it
may be, she won the heart of her husband
by
the exercise of which
the might concentrate the affections of her children) bears with it
a promise
of social amenities, of domestic joys, the full results
of which pen of woman, or even tongue of angel could hardly
describe.
or the reverse of the picture of the home where the wife is
merely a sort of upper servant, with the privilege of sitting in the
IXTKODUCTION.
XV
drawing-room, when she can find time to do so, we all know the
effects. Well may we hail with joy that greater Liberator of our
sex, the Family Sewing-Machine.
I have dwelt particularly in the Lexicon on the qualities of the
materials to be employed, from a well-founded conviction that, in
that respect, justice is not done to the women of America. To work
with bad materials is surely as great a trial of patience as can be
devised : and how such miserable cottons, needles, hooks, etc., as are
sold here, ever find purchasers, puzzles me. Were ladies to throw
down their work in utter despair, I should not feel at all astonished.
Often I have heard them blame their own stupidity, when, instead
of stupidity, they were exhibiting real skill, and most praiseworthy
perseverance.
Much of the bad selection of materials has arisen, no doubt, from
ignorance on the part of the store-keepers. To them, crochet cotton
was crochet cottonall equally good, whether made of the choicest
raw material, or of the commonest trashwhether the machinery
employed was perfect and thoroughly adapted, or of the most inferior
kind : that the cotton turned perfectly yellow on the first washing
was no business of theirs. They never trouble themselves to consider
whether any were procurable that did not, and could see no differ-
ence between the beautiful Boar's Head Cotton of Messrs. Walter
Evans & Co., and the miserable yarn sold here commonly for Tidies.
So with crochet hooks: provided there was a hook at the end, it
answered the purpose
;
and no matter whether it tore the fingers and
cut the cotton, or not. There is no excuse now for such ignorance.
However, if ladies determine to have good articles, no doubt they
will succeed ; and all parties will shortly find the benefit of more
extended knowledge. I shall be at least able to give any counsel
which may be required or desired on the subject of Fancy-work
;
and trust that rny name, and the years I have devoted to these sub-
jects, will afford some guarantee for the correctness of my judg-
XYi
IXTEODUCTIOX.
ment, and the honesty of ray opinions: of the clearness of my
instructions
every reader must judge for herself.
In conclusion, I will only add, that this Lexicon is, as its name
implies, a book
of
reference, neither intended nor calculated to
supersede new patterns and designs, but only to elucidate them, and
make them more easy to copy. While I hope it will have its place on
every work-table, I do not wish it to exclude the magazines in which
Fancy-work forms a feature. On the contrary, I trust that feature
will become daily more attractive and more deserving of attention.
Hitherto, my designs have been copied, without acknowledgment,
by many magazines, with either no alteration, or such as deteriorates
from their value
;
such as omitting the name of the cotton-maker
from a recipe, which may result in the complete spoiling of the work.
Mr. Leslie, only, at once availed himself of my presence in Xew
York, to engage me to superintend the work-table of his magazine
;
and the result will be that from the use of this book as a text-book,
the work-table of Frank Leslie's Magazine will be copious, clear, and
concise, benefiting the reader by its simplicity, and also by its abridg-
ing the space for each description, giving scope for a greater variety
of interesting matter.
It is but justice to myself, in this, my first work written on Ame-
rican soil, to say that there is not one magazine, in which Fancy-
work is a feature, that does not, with or without acknowledgment,
avail itself of my labors, nor an editor to whom my name is not
familiar as a "household word,'' although hitherto it has been, not
very justly, withheld from American ladies, for whom the
Lady's Manual of Faxcy-wokk
was especially written, and to whom it is respectfully and affection-
! by
The Author.
:.ys, October, 18691
THE
LADY'S MANUAL
FANCY NEEDLEWORK
Applique or Applicatiox-woek.This term is applied
to all work in which the design is cut or stamped out in
one material, and fastened in any way on another, which
forma the ground; the two being united at the edges by
braid, cord, or any other material. Of course, when mus-
lin or cambric is worked over net, the term is suitable
;
but, as that is usually known as Swiss Lace, the name is
especially appropriate to works in cloth, velvet, satin, lea-
ther, and such materials. Smoking caps, cigar cases, and
many other articles of Parisian manufacture, have the
design stamped out in velvet, and fastened on a cloth
ground. As stamping tools and machinery are used for
this purpose, and the workers bring skill, taste, and inces-
sant practice to their aid, they do it infinitely better than any
private person couldand cheaper also. It is greatly pre-
ferable, therefore, to purchase such articles prepared ready
for working from a respectable house, than to attempt to do
it for yourself. Articles in cloth and velvet are generally
17
18 PATENT APPLIQUE BEAD-WORK.
braided in gold braid or cord ; or, at least, that material
is intermixed with others. Sometimes lines of beads are
sewed down as a braid. (See Bead braiding.) Almost
always such work is not only prepared, but commenced,
and the necessary materials for completion put up with it.
This is a great convenience to the worker, provided they
are good in quality, and appear sufficient in quantity. But
good articles being so liable to tarnish at sea, it is always
necessary to ascertain that all is right before you make
the purchase. Of course, applique work is always expen-
sive,
Patent Applique is an invention of modern times, used
for sofa cushions, slippers, bags, mats, and many other arti-
cles. Instead of one material being cut out and fastened
on another, the design is stamped in one color on a cloth
of another. The outlines are then braided. The effect
of this work is very good; many of the designs exceed-
ingly beautiful, and the braid throwing up the inner color
quite as if it were laid on. Scarlet, crimson, a very brilliant
cherry (or cerise), blue, and green, on a white or black
ground, are the most usual colors. For the braiding,
nothing looks so well as some shades of maize and yellow
Russia silk braid ; except, perhaps, the Alliance, which, as
it may be selected to harmonize with both the colors of the
cloth, looks very handsome. For instance, suppose the
cushion to be scarlet and black, choose a blue and maize
alliance braid. In laying it on, let the blue edge come
against the scarlet, and the maize on the black. (See Braid-
in'/ instructions.)
For articles which, being very small, have delicate, yet
complicated patterns, gold cord, laid on, has a rich
effect.
Applique penwipers look richer and more brilliant
in
this styl<;
than in
any oilier. The cord must beat least
No. 3.
EEAD-WOEK.
19
Bead-woek.Although this is, in fact, hut a brr.nch of
Berlin-work, yet the importance it has of late attained
requires that I should treat it separately. It is done on
canvas, with pound beads, worked in tent stitch. The can-
vas used is either silk or imitation silk, if the design is not
to be grounded. Ordinary penelope canvas will do when
intended for grounding. Be careful that the beads are
suited to the canvas. Each one should just cover its proper
space and no more
;
and it is better that they be a little too
small, than too large for the canvas ; so that if it happens
that some one shade in a set is larger than the rest, the can-
vas should be tried with them.
A vast variety of articles are now ornamented entirely in
bead-work. The tops of small occasional tables for drawing-
rooms and boudoirs, sofa cushions, mats, baskets, slippers,
screens, etc. No. 1 beadsthe largest sizeare used for
tables ; Xo. 2 for cushions, baskets, and mats ; No. 3 for
hand screens.
mm
The stitch used is always tent, from one hole to the next,
or the next but one, diagonally upwards. I use Evans'
Mecklenburg threads to sew them on, on account of the
strength required to keep them in place. Sometimes silks
of the colors of the beads are used ; but I prefer thread.
The chief difficulty of bead-work consists in the
arrangement
of colors, the supply being somewhat
uncertain.
What I
shouM call a good sot, would consist of:

20 POUND BEADS.
4 whitesclear, opal, alabaster, and chalk ; 3
green
greys ; 3 blue greys ; 3 lavenders ; 4 turquoise blues ;
3
imperial ditto (or purple) ; 3 violets ; 4 yellows ; 4 ambers
;
4 bronze ; 3 rubies
; 1
garnet ; 2 corals
;
3 pinks ; 3 fawns or
drabsblackand at least 10 greens, in shades of olive, yel-
low, and emerald.
The mode of arranging them is to vary, and to harmonize
them as much as possible. White flowers, scrolls, and even
leaves, are very common. Now no two near each other
ought to have the same tints. If one has the darker hues of
green grey, let another be shaded in fawnsa third in laven-
ders. Black may be taken as the deepest shade of dark
green leaves, crimson and blue flowers, and even of bronze
leaves. "White, 2 pinks, and coral, will shade a pink rose.
Black, garnet, 2 rubies, and coral, a dark one. A light im-
perial blue may often be taken as the darkest shade of a blue
flower. When the ground is turquoise blue, no green leaves
ought to be introduced. They should be entirely in bronze
of various shades. The more bronzes and greens you have
the better. Suppose you have six bronzes, with the aid of
black and gold you will get eight shades. The manner of
treating these would be: for a light leaf, take gold, 1st
bronze, 3d and 5th ditto
;
for a dark, black, darkest, and
two lighter shades, wholly excluding the very lightest.
A
medium may be obtained by rejecting
both lightest and
darkest. These hints may serve as a guide for other colors.
Observe, that shades should always be quite
distinct, when
used in the same leaf or flower, much more so than in wools,
or they will look huddled.
Also, you must not do each shade
separately,
but work
one line of your pattern
throughout;
then the next, and
BO OIL
Pound
Beads are often
employed
with
wools and silks.
One v.-rv
pretty use is to make
them into the form of a
O. P. BEADS. 21
frame of scrolls and arabesques, for a landscape, or other sub-
ject. They are also greatly employed in set patterns
;
or for
the fruit or flowers in a design where either is mingled with
leaves.
The most convenient way of keeping them for present use,
is to have a few of each that you are using in a flat box lid,
which can rest on your frame, and be handy for the insertion
of the needle. But the general stock ought to be kept tied
up in bags, each shade by itself, and all the shades of one color
in one larger bag of calico of something of the color of the
bead. This way insures their safety : and hi bead-work
especially, the value is not to be estimated by the actual cost
so much as by the great inconvenience that may result from
the want of them.
Pieces worked entirely in beads, when intended for any
article likely to meet with hard icear, should, when finished,
be fastened, face downwards, on a flat surface, and lightly
brushed across the back with a thin solution of gum. This
secures the threads firmly.
O. P. beads are, also, sometimes worked on canvas, but
they are not by any means adapted to this use. When
woven, however, they may be made into many handsome
articles. The manner of weaving is this : Select your pat-
tern, which we will suppose to be a mat, with the requisite
colors, Evans' Beading Cotton, No. 000, and two coarse
needles. Take a long needleful of thread, and thread each
end. Find out the centre of the mat, and begin by thread-
ing the two middle top beads, one on each needle. On the
next line there will be one square under the two. Choose a
bead of that color, and thread both needles through it, in the
same direction. In the next row, there will be a bead on
each needle, then both through one. Continue so, down the
centre of the mat. When you get to the bottom, cross the
threads, and you may even tie them if you please. Then
22 POUND BEADS O. P. BEAD VASES.
work one half the mat, slipping the needle through one bead
where there were two, and adding one parallel with the single
one. AVhen you have to diminish, you slip the needle up
one or more. To join on the thread, make a weaver's knot
in such a place that it will be concealed in some bead.
Fringes or other borders are always added to bead mats.
Of course, scollops, Vandykes, and many other designs can
be made, if you have a pattern before you, or a small piece
done, the mode of weaving being always the same.
Pound Beads are somethnes woven in this way, to form
bracelets, napkin-rings, and small mats. The only care
required is that the beads employed be all of the same size.
Any that greatly vary from the average should be rejected.
This applies also to O. P. beads.
O. P. Bead Vases, for suspending in the windows to hold
flowers or plants, are very easily made. A wire frame is
procured at a wire-worker's. They vary in shape, usually
consisting of, at least, three rings, the smallest of which
always is at the bottom. Clear white beads, with <me bright
color, such as a pretty green, form the prettiest. The wires
are covered by having narrow white sarcenet ribbon wound
closely round them. Then the beads are threaded in any
fancy patterns, first to fill in, tolerably closely, the small
round, and then to connect it with the others, at equal dis-
tances. The wires are about the width of one bead, and
they are covered with them, the thread passing round and
round the wire, leaving a bead on the outer side, at every
turn. Often a fringe, or Vandyke trimming goes round the
upper w ire
;
but the vase can be made very pretty without,
and these solid trimmings add undesirably to the iceight.
At the b<>( I oin, and
at every point, or the centre of every
scollop,
is
fastened a handsome tassel of the same beads,
with the
addition
of any silvered or steel you may have.
Make them of any
pretty pattern, only take care they are
BEAD COLLARS. 23
strongly finished. The suspenders, of which there are gene-
rally six, or at least four, all uniting at the top, may he made
of any pattern you fancy. They always consist of doable
strings of heads. One pretty way is to thread two white on
each end of a thread, and then run the needles, in opposite
directions, through a colored bead. Or you may put three
white on one needle, and four colored on the other. Then
run both in the same direction, through one of, perhaps, a
different color. Repeat so, having the four first on one side,
and then on the opposite. By a little thought, a great
variety of patterns may be made.
Sets of dinner mats, woven in O. P. beads, and trimmed
with the same, look very handsome
;
but they require cloth
ones to be laid under them, beneath the tablecloth, to pre-
serve the wood from scratches.
Bead Collars.These are made in beads only, or in beads
and bugles. If the latter be employed, they must be about
one-third of an inch long, and large enough to pass a needle
with strong thread at least twice through. Bead collars are
made eicher in black or white. Alabaster beads are the
shade of white which most nearly resembles the color of
bugles. You may either form stars, diamonds and other
devices, in a mixture of beads and bugles, and tack them at
intervals on a paper collar of the proper form and size, filling
up the spaces and forming it into a collar by guipuring, if I
may use the term, with other beads and bugles, and adding
an edge of the same ; or you may work on a piece of ribbon
long enough to go round the neck, and forming afoundation.
In this case you make it like a fringe, but rather full, so as
to set well round the shoulders.
It is not needful to give patterns of this kind of work; but
I will observe that the edges of bugles being sharp and very
liable to cut the thread, it is always well to shield it by
putting on a bead before any part where two or three
24
BEELIX-WOKK.
threads come together. The thread, also, ought always to
be waxed. For black work, black crochet silk is better than
thread, as less liable to cut.
BERLIN-WORK.
Beelix-woek, or canvas-work, as it is sometimes called,
derives its name from the fact that the best patterns used
for it come from Berlin, and are commonly known as Berlin
patterns.
Wools, silks, chenille and beads are used for this work,
the foundation being canvas ; or sometimes perforated card-
board. Of late years, beads have been employed so much,
both in union with the other materials and alone, that
bead-work has become an art by itself; and, as such, I shall
treat it.
Select your canvas, pattern and all materials before begin-
ning, especially the grounding wool, of which it is always
better to have too much than too little, it being often impos-
sible precisely to match a shade. The frame should be of
the kind known as a standing frame, with uprights, and a
bar on which to rest the feet. The wood loell-seasoned.
Sometimes there are little trays attached to the uprights to
hold the wools; but this is unnecessary, a small portable
table being more convenient. A strong webbing is always
attached to the upper and lower bars. The side-bars ought
to screw into
the others. The canvas being evenly hemmed
al each end, is sewed to the webbed bars, and then strained
by cording to those at the side. The selvedges are always
at the sides. When the canvas is longer than the frame will
hold when
stretched out,
the upper part must be wound
round the bar,
so that you begin at the bottom, and work
TEXT-STITCH CEOSS-STITCH.
25
all the lower end first ; except when the pattern forms a cen-
tre when yon begin on the centre stitch.
To feame Castas with Cloth, or other materials, when
worked together to save grounding; cut your cloth half
an inch smaller every way ; turn hi the edges and tack to
the canvas all round; and as this double thickness at the
edges would leave the middle loose and slack when rolled,
put a little fine wadding round the bars, at those parts where
the edges do not come to make the thickness equal through-
out. Cloth should always be sponged, to take off the gloss,
before being put into a frame. It stretches so much more
than canvas, that it will be quite as large by the time both
are framed, although so much smaller at first.
The needles used for canvas-work are termed rug-
needles.
There are five stitches used in Berlin-work.
Text-stitch (Fig. l), in which the needle is brought up in
one hole, and carried down one line higher and more towards
the right.
Sfe
!
B9BHBH
Fia. 1. Fig. 2.
Cross-stitch (Fig.
2),
where the thread crosses one hole,
being carried down on the second line above, and to the
right
;
the stitch is finished by crossing from right to left, in
same manner; whence its name. In working cross-
stitch, when practicable, do half of all the stitches in a line,
in
succession
;
then cross them, working backwards.
2
26
TAPESTRY -GERMAN-STITCH IRISH-STITCH
.
Tapestry, or Gobelin-stitch, is two
threads high, and one thread wide,
being taken like the first half of cross-
stitch, only one thread nearer. Two
stitches side by side are thus equal to
one cross-stitch; but they do not form
a true square, since it protrudes a thread
on one side. It is appropriate only for fine work ; for which
it is better than the two former stitches.
German-stitch, is used principally for
grounding. It is very quickly done.
Take one tent-stitch, then half a cross-
stitch, then a tent-stitch, then a half-
cross-stitch
;
and so on, working upwards
and diagonally. (See engraving.) In
the following rows, a tent-stitch comes
on the same diagonal line with the
half-cross; and so on.
Irish-stitch is somewhat similar, but
in perpendicular lines. Pieces worked
in cross or tent-stitch, are frequently
grounded in one of these, on account
of the rapidity of execution. There may
be made various modifications of these
stitches, which will suggest themselves
to any worker.
I have also seen set patterns done in a real cross-stitch
;
that is, over two horizontal threads, without crossing those
in the opposite direction ; and then across two perpen-
dicular. It is rarely, however, used. Kever for Berlin
patterns.
In all these stitches, it is essential that the wool should
be
drawn out regularly and evenly ; never so tightly that the
canvas becomes visible. Defects in wool should also be cut
RAISED BERLIN-WORK.
27
out ; and the needleful not always the same length, which
gives a striped appearance.
No. 20 French cotton canvas is the best size for four
thread Berlin. Nos. 22 and 24 will require the hand to be
drawn somewhat tighter. 14 and 16 do with eight thread
Berlin
;
and No. 18 may also be used, by a careful worker.
The coarser sizes need that the stitch should be taken twice
in at least one direction. No. 8 canvas will want it in both.
Observe that four thread Berlin, used double, fills up con-
siderably better than eight thread.
Raised Berlix-work.In this, one
or more prominent objects, in a design,
Rare
raised
;
the remainder being done in
cross-stitch. Birds, animals, and flowers,
look handsome when so worked. Do all
the plain parts first. Then thread nee-
dles with the various shades you want,
and obtain fine flat netting meshes. Be-
gin from the left-hand corner, lowest part, with the proper
shade, the wool being doubled. Bring the needle up between
the two upright threads of the first cross-stitch. Take a
tapestry-stitch to the left, bringing tho
needle out in the same hole. Put the
wool round the mesh, and take one to
the right, the needle coming out again
the same
x
. Thread round the mesh,
and take a tapestry-stitch from the hole
of the last down to the right, the wool to
the right of it. Thread round. One to
the right x . A figure V is thus constantly formed on the
wrong side. TVhen done, wash at the back with gum; cut
the loops, and shear them into shape from the pattern, giving
proper thickness and form to each part. Sometimes this is
done across one thread only.
28 AEMOEIAL BEAEINGS.
Figure and Landscape Patteens.There is frequently
great difficulty found in procuring shades of wool proper for
the faces and limbs in figure pieces. They must always be
most carefully chosen
;
and all these parts should be worked
in tent-stitch, while the drapery and other accessories are in
cross-stitch. This enables you to introduce more shades into
the flesh-tints ; four stitches in tent being equal to one in
cross-stitch. The hair may always be worked in floss-silk, and
the tapestry-stitch, if you can manage the shading, has a
more flowing effect than any other. For the same reason,
water ought always to be worked in tapestry-stitch. For
water, shades of floss silk, in bluish grey, from white to
nearly black, ought to be used. About five shades, white
included, will suffice. The different shades
.?f
drapery ought
to be worked according to its fall : for instance, in an upright
figure, where the drapery must inevitably be perpendicular,
each shade ought to be worked so.
If a sky be introduced, it should be worked last, and
always in tent-stitch. (As a rule, you begin all Berlin work
from the bottom.) Many workers paint a sky on drawing-
paper, and fasten it behind the work when framed. This
may not be very artistic, but it is, at all events, better than
going through the labor of working a sky, unless you have
skill enough to do it well. Another use to which artistic
talent may be applied, is to paint the faces and limbs. Good
white silk is laid over the canvas, on those parts. The sur-
rounding work being done, with the stitches taken here and
there through the silk, it is firmly fixed in its place. Last of
all, the arms, legs, and faces are painted, with almost as care-
ful a finish as a miniature.
Armorial Bearings.These are frequently drawn and
painted on the canvas, which is afterwards worked in appro-
priate colors. They ought, however, always to be properly
emblazoned on point paper. The size required must be first
PATTERNS DRAWN ON CAXYAS.
29
settled, and the canvas selected. Then the pattern drawn
to it. If the design be very elaborate, it will be necessary
to use very fine canvas. For a simpler pattern, a coarser
material may be employed. Frequently, the ribbon or
scroll is worked in cross or tent-stitch, and the motto
embroidered on it in black silk : but if possible, every part
should be done in the same stitch.
Beads are now frequently employed for heraldic devices,
without the admixture of any other material. I had a sofa
cushion worked with three plumes and motto (ich dien) of
the Prince of "Wales, which looked extremely beautiful.
I have mentioned the mode of framing cloth and canvas
together, when the former is intended to form the ground
of the design. Of course, its color must be carefully selected,
with a view to the pattern. No one would choose green of
any shade, as the ground of a flower piece, which must neces-
sarily have green leaves coming in contact with it. Black
so soon looks dusty and dingy, that it is equally undesirable.
Shades of claret, maroon, or brown, are generally well
adapted for work. The cloth, also, should be stout. It is a
great mistake to have a slight one, which, though easier to
work on, never looks so well. Procure a small quantity of
wool, exactly the shade of the cloth, and with it fill in any
small spaces which may occur in the design. This is better
than removing the canvas. Some workers draw out the
threads of canvas entirely, after the work is done. I prefer
cutting them off quite close round the work, which gives it
a raised, handsome appearance. But to do this, each thread,
first of the warp, and then of the woof, must be slightly
drawn up, and cut close, so that when the work is again
drawn smooth, the ends are entirely concealed. The needles
used are sharp pointed rug needles.
Patterns drawn ox Canvas are more difficult to work
than from painted designs ; but with a little care they may
30
SILK CANVAS-WORK TAPESTRY DESIGNS.
be managed. The darker tints should be worked first
:
and
according to the drawing, without trying to count. But if
it be anything in which the pattern is repeated, as in the four
corners of a cushion, do one from the drawn pattern, and
count the others from it.
Gem and Set Patterns require generally distinct clear
colors ; and all gems should be done in silks, thrown up with
shades of gold (by way of setting), and a rich claret, dark
green or blue ground. Or black may be used for this pur-
pose.
Silk Canvas-work requires care that no threads be
carried across spaces which are not afterwards to be filled
up.
Tapestry Designs are those in which a few bright colors
only are used, without any attempt at shading. In these the
design is often in gold color, on a claret, green, or blue
ground. But a fine of black ought always to surround the
gold, or cut it, as it is technically called. Every part of these
designs looks much better in silk than in wool ; and the
gold, especially, ought always to be in silk. But if expense
be a consideration, and the work be in a cross-stitch, the
first half may be in wool, and the crossing of each stitch
in silk. If the canvas be coarse, filoselle may be employed,
instead of crochet silk. To give an idea of this kind of
work, which is at once easy and effective, I will describe a
footstool now lying before me. The centre is formed of four
large golden oak-leaves, their points towards each other, cut
with black, and grounded with deep blue in a small damask
pattern. Scrolls of white, cut also with black, surround this
mi< Nile, at a distance, the space between being filled with
rich crimson. These scrolls form a circle, and the top being
square, the
corners have bunches of shamrocks on a ground
of :i lighter green. A line of golden spots, on a black
ground,
divides this from the border, which consists of oak-
CROCHET AND KNITTED BEELIN-WOEK.
31
leaves, in gold, cut with black, filled in below with claret,
and above with the crimson used in the centre.
Golden Tapestey Patterns, are designed in three shades
of gold, with a plain dark ground. Two of the gold shades
are a sort of brownish yellow, the lightest always yellow
silk. With claret, blue, or green ground, this style of work
is very rich and chaste looking. Borders for table-covers
are especially handsome in it ; and by care with the ground-
ing it will correspond with any kind of furniture.
Ceochet and Knitted Beelin-woek.This term may
probably be new to many of my readers. The work itself,
however, is so tedious that it is hardly known except in Ger-
many, where the ladies possess such rare patience and skill
in fancy-work, and produce, among other articles, the bead
purses, on every stitch of which is a seed-bead, forming part
of an elaborate design, in which perhaps flowers and fruit,
with their appropriate leaves, or rich arabesques, are seen,
worked as accurately as if painted by an artist. To do these,
or anything else in this genre, a proper Berlin pattern must
be obtained, and on it the beads (always seed, or very small
No.
3)
are threaded in their regular order, as the shades
appear on the pattern. Of course the slightest mistake
shows itself on the subsequent working. If the entire work
is in beads, you have merely to go on, dropping a bead at
every stitch. If the material on which they are strung is to
form the ground, you use the pattern again to guide you,
reversing the direction, in working. I mean, if you begin
to thread at one end of a pattern, you will begin to work
from the other extremity.
If groups or bouquets are workedas I have done for a
mattake care to repeat the bead threading as often as it
will be needed in the round. Bracelets of this work are
beautiful. Choose a rich wreath of roses, of various sorts,
and not more than 25 stitches wide ; and thread the beads
32 B0BBIX-W0EK.
on fine black silk, which will form the ground. Do them in
in crochet; line with ribbon, and fasten with gold clasps.
In working patterns, when yon leave off at the end of every
row, yon may advantageously thread the beads for one row
at a time. But this cannot be done in continuous rounds.
I will conclude the instructions for Berlin-work with
directions for joining canvas, and getting up a finished piece
of work.
To Jorx Canvas.If very fine, lay one piece exactly over
the other ; tack them together, and work through both at
once. This is unquestionably the best method for all
fine
work.
For coarser materials, either back-stitch the two edges,
thread by thread, and then turn them down ; or sew them
in an equally careful manner. After this, with white thread
work a line across the join, in the same stitch as you are
doing the work.
To IMPART TO A FlXISHED PlECE OF WORK THE EvEX-
xess axd Xice Appeaeaxce of Shop-woek.After taking
it out of the frame, beat it on the wrong side, to get rid of
dust, and of all loose particles of wool and silk ; and if it be
drawn on one side, damp it slightly at the back, and stretch
it again in the frame in the contrary direction. Then take it
out. Procure a piece of the same canvas, which lay on a
clean cloth on the table. Over this, face downwards, and
exactly even with it, lay your work. Lay a damp cloth (not a
wet one, mind
!)
over it, and iron it rapidly, and thoroughly.
Take care, however, that the iron be not too hot for silk, as
it would take the color.
Bobbin-work.This is chiefly used for children's dress,
especially for infants' robes and hoods ; on cambric, fancy
muslins, and such
other materials as are employed for the
first robes, you use fine bobbin; on cashmere, merino, and
other woollen goods, the coarse silk known as tailors' twist.
DOUBLE HERRINGBONE-STITCH.
33
No. 1.
No. 1. Chain-stitch.Make a knot in the silk, and draw
the needle through to the right side. Insert the needle
again in the same place, and draw it out one-eighth or tenth
of an inch nearer to you, letting the silk form a loop under
the needle. Draw it out, but not too tightly. Repeat con-
tinuing, when you will make a stitch exactly like crochet
or tambour chain.
W^MV
No. 2.
No. 2. Herringbone is very generally known. It is sus-
ceptible of a variety of modifications, for which it will be
well to refer to the engravings, which will convey a more
correct idea of their appearance than any written descrip-
tion. It is impossible, I think, to be puzzled about the
mode of working.
No. 3.
No. 3. Double Herringbone-stitch.Merely a variety
of the above.
AAAA
No. 4.
2*
34 LONG BRUSSELS-STITCH BEAIDING.
Njo.
4.
In this the stitches are taken np and down,
instead of, as is generally the case, along the edge of the
work. It looks very pretty in fine bobbin.
No. 5.
No. 5 is Close Herringbone.It is worked exactly like
No.
2, except that each stitch is taken from the last. It
requires to be worked very evenly and carefully.
vw
No. 6.
No. 6 is another variety of Herringbone-stitch, more
suited for the trimming of pelisses, aprons, etc., for elder
children, than for infants' robes. It is quickly done, and
looks very effective.
Long Brussels-stitch is often used, with advantage, in this
kind of work
;
and two or three rows of it may be employed
to make a neat and pretty edge to many fancy articles. In
using any coarse material, such as tailors' twist, or bobbin,
allowance must be made for the difference, in fixing the size
of the stitches. It would be absurd to make them as close
in No. 000 Beading Cotton as in 150 Boars' Head.
Braiding.This is usually considered the simplest of all
the sorts of fancy-work. In none, however, are skill and
knowledge more apparent. It consists in running braid,
whether of cotton, worsted, or silk, on any material, in a
RAISED BRAIDING COED BRAIDING.
35
certain pattern, already marked on it. The mode of mark-
ing is described elsewhere. (See Pouncedpattern.) Narrow
braids are those commonly used ; and they may be sewed
on, if of silk, with threads drawn out of one length, which is
first cut off, and the strands of which will supply material for
sewing on the rest of the skein. This, of course, insures the
silk matching the braid. But I prefer using China silk, if
procurable to match, as it is somewhat stronger. Tho
stitches should be taken, not aloug the centre of the braid,
but slightly across it, which keeps the edges from curling
up, and the material from widening. Curves should be
made by coaxing the braid into the required form; but
sharp angles should have a stitch or two taken across, not in,
the braid, to confine its width, after which, the braid is
turned over. The only exception to this mode of working is
with any that has the two edges of diiferent colors, as
alliance braid has. Then points must be made as neatly as
possible, without turning, as this would put inside the pat-
tern the color that had been outside. When broad braids
are put on they are mitred at the point ; that is, so folded
that the opening of the fold goes straight down the centre.
Broad braids must be rim on at both edges.
"Worsted braids must be run on with fine wool of the same
colors, and be rather held loosely than at all contracted, for
any washing material, as they are sure to shrink. All nar-
row braids should have the ends drawn through to the wrong
side except in braiding for point lace. (See Point lace?)
Raised Braiding.This is sometimes done in worsted
braid, for such children's dresses as are not washable. The
braid is sewed along one edge, so that, in fact, it stands up.
It has a rich and handsome effect, but is troublesome to do.
Cord Braiding.Gold and silver cord, or coarse thread,
Albert braid, and other fancy cords are sometimes used for
braiding. The ends are always drawn through to the wrong
36
BEAD BRAIDING BR0DERIE ANGLAISE.
side, and the stitches taken across the braidnever through
it. In the case of gold and silver cord, for which China
silk, of the same shade, is employed, the stitches are taken
somewhat slanting, and so that the silk will be partially con-
cealed, by being sunk between the twists of cord.
Cotton Braiding is much done, and ought to be in still
greater favor, for morning collars and sleeves. Narrow close
woven cotton braid is employed on clear muslin, on which
the pattern is previously marked. Such articles are usually
finished with a row of buttonhole-stitch, to which a narrow
Yalenciennes lace is sewed.
Bead Braiding.Lines of small beads are often laid on in
patterns, which have been previously marked for braiding.
To make the beads set evenly, some care is required. Thread
two fine needles with silk of the color of the beads. Make a
knot, and draw one through to the right side of the cloth,
in the line of the pattern ; and it is always better to begin
at an angle. On this thread beads. Take the other needle,
fasten on in like manner, and bring out in the same marked
line, slightly in advance. With this second needle, take a
stitch across the thread of the first between every two
beads, so that not only they are kept in their places, but they
are prevented from being huddled, which spoils the pattern.
Bead-braiding is often edged, on one side at least, by a line
of gold thread, which throws up the beads, and gives them
a charming effect.
Broderie Anglaise.This term is employed to designate
those kinds of muslin-work in which the effect is produced
by cutting out or piercing holes, which are afterwards
sowed over. If large, or of any form except circular, they
are cut with fine scissors ; if round, they are made with a
stiletto. Every part is first traced, that is, run in fine
stitches throughout the outlines ; and it improves both the
effect and the durability to hold in a thread of hard twisted
CROCHET.
37
cotton (Evans' Boar's Head,
8, 10, 16 or
20),
and sewing
over that, as well as the tracing thread and material. The
stitches should be even and close, but not wrapping over
each other. The cotton employed is Evans' royal embroi-
dery, or perfectionne cotton. The size varies with the mus-
lin or long-cloth on which the design is marked. No.
8, 10,
and 12 for coarse work, to No. 36 for fine. Patterns given
in books usually have the proper size of cotton mentioned.
Beodeeie a la Minute.A recent style of work, the
design being done in small dots, one of which, if No. 8
embroidery cotton be used, will be formed by each stitch.
The spots look much better, however, if more raised than
this will make them, and also, if done with finer cotton.
Another mode of working them will be found in Point
de poste.
Beodeeie ex Lacet.I claim to have originated this
kind of work entirely. The effect, for aprons, bags, and
many other articles, is most beautiful. A rich braiding
design being marked on the material, is braided with the
best Russia silk braid ; and then the flowers filled in, in
point-lace stitches, with China silk of the color of the braid.
Of course, the stitches are not so fine as in point-lace
;
and the least elaborate should be chosen ; but the effect is
that of very rich yet novel embroidery. The stems and
narrow parts are filled with hem-stitch. Crimson, scarlet,
cerise, rich green, and violet, on black silk, look best for this
purpose.
CROCHET.
Ceochet has now been for some years one of the most
popular of all the various sorts of fancy needle-work. The
beauty and variety of the patterns that can be execute.!
38 HOLDING THE MATERIALS WORKING CHAIN.
from it, have perhaps been the chief cause of the great and
universal preference manifested for crochet ; but it owes,
no doubt, also, something to its great durability, and to the
facility with which a mistake can be remedied, without
entangling or spoiling the work. In this latter particular, it
has greatly the advantage of both netting and knitting.
The implement used is a crochet
/
a pin, or straight stem
of steel, bone, or ivory, with a hook at one extremity.
Sometimes the steel crochets are set in ivory handles. A
good hook should have the extremity very smooth, and well
rounded, and even the barb ought not to be too sharp, or it
will cut the material with which it is employed, especially
wool or silk. I have never found any that could be com-
pared, for excellence, with those of Messrs. Boulton & Son,
of Redditch, England: they are numbered from 12 to 24
inclusive ; and ISTos. 12, 15, 18, 21,
and
24, form an excellent
and useful set, which will last any careful person a lifetime.
I especially avoid those sold in boxes, with one movable
handle to many needles. To work with them you had need
have a degree of patience which rarely, I fear, falls to the lot
of poor human nature
;
while the fingers are sure to be torn
in a manner that will not easily be forgotten.
Holding the Materials.The crochet-needle must be
held lightly between the fore-finger and thumb of the right
hand
;
the hook horizontal, and parallel with the first finger
of the left-hand, not with the barb pointing upwards or
downwards, as is too frequently the case. That part of the
work on which you are immediately employed, is held closely
between the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand. The
thread crosses the latter and the middle finger, which is
kept at a little distance
;
and then is held down by the third
finger, close to the middle one. The little finger, only, of
the left hand, is unemployed.
Working Chain, or Foundation-stitch (ch).Make a
SHORT DOUBLE CROCHETDOUBLE CROCHET. 39
running loop, near the end of the thread, and draw it up.
Insert the hook in it, and hold the end close to the loop,
with the left hand, as described. The middle and third fin-
gers of the left hand being held a little higher than the fore-
finger, the bar of thread slopes upwards. The hook is in
front of it. By a slight movement of the left wrist, which
draws it towards you, you lay the thread across the hook
;
draw this thread through the loop already made, and you
will have done one chain. Repeat for any number you
want. The right hand, it will be observed, thus plays almost
a passive part ; and the fingers are held far more gracefully
than when the hook is used more actively. Let me add that
the work is, at once, better and more even when the proper
position of the hands has been maintained.
The other stitches in crochet being named according to
the depth they add to the work, we will begin with the nar-
rowest, known as
Slip-stitch (si).Having already a loop on the needle,
insert the hook in a stitch, and draw the thread through
both together.
Single Crochet (sc).Having a loop on the needle
(which is always supposed to be the case), insert the hook
in a stitch, and draw the thread through in a loop. Again
put the thread over the hook, and bring it through these
two loops.
Short Double Crochet (sdc).before inserting the
hook in the stitch to be worked, put the thread round it.
Then draw the thread through the stitch, and you will have
two loops on, and the thread passed round between them.
Draw the thread through these three all at once.
Double Crochet (dc).Begin exactly like the last, but
when you have the three loops on, draw the thread through
two only, leaving one, besides the new stitch. Draw the
thread through these two together.
40 LONG TREBLE CEOCHET BEATD CHAIN-STITCH.
Shoet Teeble Ceochet (stc).Put the thread twice
round the needle, "before inserting the hook in the stitch to
be worked. Having drawn the thread through the latter,
you have what is equal to
four
loops on the needle ; draw
the thread through two ; and then through the remaining
two, and the loop just made, together.
Teeble Ceochet (tc).Begin like the last, but draw the
thread through two loops only at a time ; and as it will take
you three times to do it, the stitch is called treble crochet.
Half Long Teeble Ceochet.A stitch rarely used, is
formed on the same principle of increase
;
the thread is put
three times round the needle, before its insertion in the
stitch. You thus have
Jive
loops when you begin to
work them off. Work off two ; then two ; then three
together.
Long Teeble Ceochet (Itc).Similar to the last, but
working off two only at a time, and thus completing the
stitch in four movements.
The sdc, stc, and half long-stitch
have been invented by myself, and are
used only in my recipes. They are
especially useful in forming leaves,
flowers, and other things where a very
gradual increase is desirable. How
perfectly this graduation is obtained, will be perceived in
the accompanying engraving.
Beaid Chain-stitch.This stitch makes a pretty braid
of the kind usually called Grecian plait; it is useful for
many purposes. Make two chain: then insert the hook
in the
first
of these, without withdrawing it from the
loop already on the needle, and bring the next loop
through both together. After this first fancy-stitch insert
the hook
in the last
stitch, always, and draw the thread
through
that, together with the one already on the needle.
OCTAGONS AND HEXAGONS IN SQUAEE CEOCHET. 41
In shaded crochet silk this makes a very nice braid for pen-
wipers, and many other purposes.
Square Ceochet is close or open. A close square con-
sist of three dc stitches, worked on three following stitches
of the previous row. An open square has one dc, followed
by two chain, while two corresponding stitches of the last
row are missed. 1 close, 1 open, square will therefore be
4 dc, 2 ch, miss 2. It being necessary to close the last
square, in a row, with a dc stitch, in reckoning the number
of chain necessary for the foundation of a piece of square
crochet, multiply the number of squares by three, with 1
over : thus say a piece has a hundred squares, you will want
301 chain.
Long Square CrochetIn which any design intended
for square crochet may be worked, if required considerably
larger, has the long stitches in tc. A close square is 4 tc,
an open, 1 tc, 3 ch, miss 3. Foundationmultiply the
squares by 4,
with 1 over.
Octagons and Hexagons in Squaee Ceochet.It is
often desirable to cut off the corners of pieces of square
crochet, to suit the design to the shape of a cake-basket or
other article. The first and last rows, and the edge stitches,
ought always to be close, in square crochet patterns ; and if
the design does not so give them, they should be allowed
for.
To increase a square at each edge.Make a loop to begin
a chain, and, when it is on the needle, draw it as tightly as
possible. Make one chain after that. Now do two dc in
the
first
stitch of the row ; at the other end, do two in
the last, make a ch ; draw the thread through it, and cut
it off. Begin the next row the same, as to the chain. Do
2 dc in the ch stitch ; and 2 on the first dc ; also 2 in the
last dc, 2 in the ch, and make a ch. The slope thus attained
will be perfectly gradual, and the edges firm and even.
42 RIBBED CROCHET CROCHET
CROSS-STITCH.
TJie decreasing sides.This direction serves also for
edging in square crochet. Of course, one square, or three
stitches, must be decreased at each end. Slip one stitch,
sc one, sdc one, dc the fourth. Reverse this at the other
end of the row. In the following ones, do the slip-stitch on
the first dc, and all must be right. Observe, in square
crochet patterns, to cut off the thread at the end of the
row. Crochet should not be worked backwards and for-
wards, unless directions are given to that effect.
Ribbed Crochet.This crochet appears to be in ridges
when finished. You work backwards and forwards, always
putting the needle in
front of the chain, instead of the back
part of the stitch, as in ordinary crochet. When working
backwards and forwards in sc, a chain must be made at the
end of every row, to prevent the edge from contracting. In
dc, two chains ; in tc three.
Crochet Cross-stitch.This very simple stitch so exactly
imitates cross-stitch on canvas, that it would be difficult to
tell the difference between a piece worked in Berlin-work,
and one done in crochet of the same pattern. Any Berlin
design may be done in it, but such should be selected as
have not many colors.
Make an ordinary chain-stitch, and work on it one row of
single crochet for a foundation. Cut off your thread, and
begin again at the same end as the last row, which must
always be done in this stitch.
Put a loop of thread on the hook, then insert it under the
sides of the chain which runs along the edge of the work.
Lay it oner tlie cotton, so as to take it up on the contrary to
the usual way. Draw it through the work. Then again
PRIXCESS FREDERICK WILLIAM STITCH. 43
^^i
if
draw the thread through the two loops now on the needle.
This completes the stitch, and has simply to be repeated
through the length of each row. It must "be done very regu-
larly to produce the proper effect.
. Prixcess Frederick William Stitch.
A new stitch in crochet has recently
been given to the world, which I call, in
compliment to our English royal bride,
the Princess Frederick William crochet.
It is done with a hook having a knot at
the end, and somewhat larger than those
usually employed, in proportion to the
material to be worked. Being very solid,
it is especially suitable for shawls, com-
forters, opera cloaks, and other similar
articles. Begin by making an ordinary
chain, of the required length. Keep on
the last loop, which will make the first of
next row. Insert the hook in the next,
and bring the thread through, with a
loop on the needle. Work every chain
so to the end, when all your loops will be
on the needle.
2c? How.Put the thread round the
hook, and bring it through once. After
this put the thread round and bring it
through two every time, till one stitch
only is left, which will form the first of
the following row.
3d How.Insert your work in each
upright loop of thread (see engraving),
and bring the thread through in a loop.
Work so to the end of the row, when once more you will
have all the stitches on the needle.
Csi>
44 TO USE SEVERAL COLOES IN CEOCHET.
To decrease at the beginning of a row, in this stitch,
draw the thread through 2 instead of
1,
the first time. In
any other part of the work, draw it through an extra stitch,
as
3,
instead of 2.
Bead Ceochet.Doyleys, and many other articles are
rendered very brilliant and beautiful by having the design
worked in glass beads, of various colors, threaded on the
cotton. As they wash and wear very well, these articles are
as serviceable as handsome. Generally one color, ruby, coral,
emerald, or turquoise, is used
;
if two or more be employed,
each color must be threaded on a separate reel of cotton
;
the cottons are then used like colored silks in purses (see
To crochet icith several colors), the beads being dropped in
their places, as the design may require. Always draw the
loop through the stitch, before slipping up the bead to its
place. A chain or sc stitch takes one bead ; a dc, two
;
a
tc, three. The beads are always dropped on the wrong side
of the work, which in this is right. Select beads that slip
without difficulty, but still do not run over the cotton ; and
the less bulky they are, the better. Some are so
fat
(I can
use no other word), in proportion to the hole, that they are
quite unfit for crochet work. (See Beads.)
To use Seveeal Coloes in Ceochet.Silks and wools are
chiefly employed in this way. Each skein of silk must be
wound on a reel, and these reels should be set on a stand
made for the purpose, to prevent the silks from tangling.
The stand is a heavy piece of wood with iron pins set at
intervals. Each one is used as required
;
only in changing,
you begin to use the new color in finishing the last stitch of
the previous one. Thus, suppose the direction was, three
white, two blue, five black : you would do two perfect white,
and draw the thread through for the next stitch in the same
;
but finish the stitch in blue. Then one and a half blue, and
finish with black. Several colors arc rarely
employed
TO MAEK THE COMMENCEMENT OF A ROUND. 45
together in anything but sc ; some people leave the threads
of silk loose at the back
;
but if there be not too many, it is
always preferable to work them in ; that is, to hold them
along the finger, just above the work, so that the loop being
drawn through the stitch from behind them, closes them in.
If many colors are used together, this is, however, clumsy.
To WOEK FROM THE CENTRE, AS IN STOOL CoVEES, DoY-
leys, etc.In such articles, every round has, of course, more
stitches than the previous one. In single crochet, eight
extra in every round will be a right increase. Thus, you
begin with eight
;
2d round, 16
;
3d, 24
;
4th, 32
;
and so
on. It is better that these extra stitches be make by chains
at regular intervals, than by doing two stitches in one of the
previous round. Of course, there must never be two chains
together. By this method you avoid making holes, as is
often done in the usual way. In all directions where three
stitches are to be worked on two of the previous round, one
ought to be worked, then a ch between, then the other
stitch.
In designs in dc, or tc, to pass from one round to another
without breaking the thread, make 3 ch for a dc, 4 for
a tc stitch, and twist it round ; this gives the chain the
appearance of the stitch desired. Suppose the directions be
1 dc, 3 ch, therefore, you would make 3 dc, twist them,
then make the other three.
Missing.Unless directions are given to the contrary, it
is to be understood, in crochet designs, that a stitch is
worked on every stitch of the previous row ; and that a
stitch of the former row is missed for every chain made.
Thus, if the direction be 2 dc, 2 ch, you would,
of
course,
do the next dc on the third stitch from the last, unless
especially ordered otherwise.
To maek the Commencement of a Round.It is essen-
tial, but sometimes difficult to do this, in jewelled doyleys,
46 CROCHET EEAD JEWELRY.
and similar things. I take a few inches of thread, contrast-
ing in color with the work, and draw it through the last
stitch of each of the first few rounds, as well as at intervals
afterwards. It is a great help.
To joln on.In sc, finish the stitch with the new cotton,
as in taking another color. Then hold in both the ends, and
work them in for an inch or so. In any close crochet, do the
same. In open crochet, make a weaver's knot, which allows
of the ends being cut off quite close.
Diamond Open-hem.This forms a very pretty and use-
ful heading for edgings
;
and will serve many other purposes
also. Begin as for a long treble, with the thread three times
round the needle. Work off two loops, or half the stitch.
Put the thread twice more round, miss two, insert the hook
in the third, and work off one loop as usual ; at the next
movement of the needle, instead of two take off three loops.
Finish the stitch, do two chain to correspond with the two
missed. Work a dc stitch on the centre of the long stitch,
putting the hook through the tico loops which were drawn
off together. This makes one pattern
;
and you do not miss
any between it and the next. A sc row should always
follow this.
Crochet Bead Jewelry.Exceedingly pretty brace-
lets and chains may be made of pound beads, No.
3, worked
in crochet. Choose rubies, turquoise, or any other beads
that imitate gems. Thread them on fine silk of the same
color, and work in ordinary single crochet, dropping a bead
on every stitch. For a chain, make a foundation of fifteen
stitches, and close into a round ; for a bracelet, thirty-six
stitches will not be too many. You work round and
round, until you have done the length you wish. The silk
being exceedingly elastic, would stretch out of all bounds,
were it not kept in place by a cord run inside. I employ
several lengths of Fleecy, or double Berlin, cut as long as
EMBROIDERY. 47
the work is without stretching, for this purpose
;
running it
in with a bodkin, and fastening it to the crochet at both
ends. "Wool is of so soft yet elastic a quality, that it pre-
vents the crochet from flattening, as it otherwise would do.
To bracelets I add tassels, made also of beads. (See Tassels.)
A round necklace clasp is what I use for fastening brace-
lets, covering it with a wooden ball, over which beads are
closely woven to conceal its substance. If you work in
black or dark beads, dip the ball in ink, to stain it, before
using.
I may here appropriately mention a set of mourning
ornaments I once made for a friend, who wished to have
something very unique. The chain was made as already
described, and served to suspend a massive cross of balls,
covered with beads, woven over, like O. P. bead-work. One
bracelet, being very thick, was a single round ; the other,
somewhat smaller, was double the length, and twisted
together. Both had handsome tassels. A brooch, to match,
completed the set.
EMBROIDERY.
Perhaps of all the various kinds of fancy-work,
with the exception of point lace, this may be considered
the most artistic. The materials are velvet, satin, kid
or cloth, with silks, chenilles, gold bullion, and gold and
silver thread. The design is first marked, in outline, on the
article to be ornamented ; and to do this a pounced pattern
is prepared, and then transferred to the material. (See
Pounced patterns.) It is then put in a frame and stretched,
like canvas. We will now suppose, for the convenience of
iption, that the design is a group of roses and morning
glories. Select the proper colors of silk, Dacca being that
48 EMBROIDERY.
chiefly employed. Yellow-greens will be wanted for tlie
rose-leaves, pinks for the flowers, blue-green for the morning
glory leaves, and blues, pale pinks, and violet for the flowers.
If there be any morning glory buds, they have something of
a curled appearance. The corolla ofthe morning glory, as we
know, is formed of a single cup-like petal. There is, there-
fore, no break in the working, but that part which falls back
towards the stem is always the darkest. All the stitches are
taken from the centre of the flower; and when the dark and
somewhat pointed streaks occur, the silk must be changed
accordingly. A long stitch, something like that of Irish
embroidery, is used, and they must he side by side very
evenly. As of course the inner circle is much smaller than
the outer one, some of the stitches must be made shorter.
The great art is to make them lie evenly, and to produce a
clear, even, well-defined edge. The large leaves may be
worked from the centre-vein to the edge, in the same way.
The \-einings are done in silk a shade darker, and in
half-
polka stitch ; that is, one stitch of the eighth of an inch is
taken, somewhat slanting, the next from the side of it, but
double the length, sloping always in the same direction; all
the following ones, of the length of the last, half beside it
and half beyond. Stems are done in the same way ; but for
broad ones, the stitches are taken more directly across. The
roses are worked petal by petal ; and if the centre of the
flower is seen, it must be represented in a few French knots,
done in yellow silk. The leaves are in yellow-green, the
edges carefully serrated ; the centre vein, like that of the
morning glory. The very small leaves may be worked com-
pletely across, without any veining. To represent the folds
of the morning glory bud, work each fold separately. The
stems of roses should be in a brownish green, especially for
moss roses, and the thorns marked
by
short stitches starting
on each side from them. It is always desirable to work
>> n f M t n"fnn > nn nnMHf MH
RAISED AND DAMASK EMBROIDERY. 49
either from a piece already done, or from a painting.
Shaded silks are often employed with good effect in working
leaves and flowers ; but as crochet silk, which is somewhat
hard, must be used (for Dacca is not made shaded), it is well
to take out one strand of each needleful, which makes it
work much softer. In using shaded silks, be careful to join
on every new needleful to match the shade with which you
left off.
French Knots.These are much used in Chinese em-
broidery; and in French and English, for the centres of
flowers, and some other purposes. Bring the needle up in
the place where you want the knot to be. Twist the silk
twice round the needle, which insert in the same place again,
and draw it gradually through, guiding the silk with the
left hand, that it may not tangle. The knot is then formed.
Raised Embroidery.Sometimes embroidery is raised.
This is done by tacking down soft embroidery cotton over
the space to be worked, the centre being the most raised,
and the edges gradually thinned. The stitches are then
taken across this, so as completely to cover it. If well
shaped, the bodies of animals or birds look most natural
done in raised embroidery; but the stitches must not be
taken across, but through, in exactly the same way as Irish
stitch, the half of one coming between every two, by which
means any number of shades requisite for the color of the
animal may be obtained.
Embroidery in gold ought always to be thus raised, espe-
cially for church-work, yellow floss silk being the material
used.
Damask Embroidery is the term applied to patterns
worked over gold braid, straw beading, or silk braid.
Either of these materials forms the pattern, the wool or
silk the ground. The design is either setthat is, done by
mting threadsor it is marked on the canvas with ink
;
it
3
50 KNITTED EMBROIDERY.
may then consist of leaves, flowers, or any other simple pat-
tern. Suppose the pattern to be marked on canvas, for a
pair of slippers. Begin at the toe. Cut off a piece of braid,
rather more than long enough to go across it. Run it on
with silk of the same color. And, by the way, it is always
necessary that the braid should cover two threads of canvas,
within a hair's-breadth. Take the wool or silk, and with
stitches across the braid, and consequently across two
threads of canvas in height, but not crossing any in width,
cover all those parts which form the ground, leaving the
braid uncovered for the pattern. Line after line is worked
thus, until the whole is completed. None of the leaves
ought to be very large
;
but, if desired, they may be veined
in embroidery-stitch, with silk of a tint one shade darker
than the braid. Crimson silk, or blue, or green, with gold
braid ; or, for a wedding-gift, white, with gold braid, looks
very rich for slippers. Filoselle is the proper silk to
employ.
Knitted Embroidery.I believe this beautiful kind of
work is not done, to any extent, except by the peasants of
the Pyrenees. It Avell deserves, however, to become more
popularly known. It consists of knitting patterns, more or
less complex (that is containing fewer or more varieties of
wool, on a black or white ground), in the ordinary knitting
stitch, one row plain and the next purled. The richest pat-
terns are produced in this way. Groups of flowers, wreaths,
and almost any design that can be painted on Berlin paper,
can be thus copied in knitting. To do an elaborate group
would require long practice and great dexterity, as the
wools are apt to become entangled. But it is comparatively
easy to form a pretty simple pattern, in one color on a
ground of another. Any square crochet running
pattern,
border, or group will do. Wind the wools on spools,
lightly indeed, but so that you can prevent them from
FLUTED EMBROIDERY.
51
unwinding. Whenever you come to a close crochet stitch,
do it in colored wool, and the open squares in white. Avoid
dragging each wool, when you resume it, after using the
other. This is the great difficulty. Of course, if you do, the
work puckers, and the greater the number of wools, the
greater the difficulty.
Another way of producing the effect is, to do the knitting
in the ground color, and darn in the pattern in a stitch pre-
cisely resembling that of the knitting. There is no difficulty
in this, but it is not, certainly, the orthodox way.
In the Pyrenees, scarfs, shawls, mantles, aprons, slippers

almost every imaginable article of dress is knitted in this

manner, in their fine wool. (See Pyrenees wool, Mate-
rials.) The exquisite softness of velvet is perfectly imi-
tated by these fabrics. The shawls, not unfrequently, are
with an open ground, such as the Pyrenees diamond knit-
ting, and bouquets at intervals. To do this they knit as
many stitches as are required for the bouquet, in plain stitch,
resuming the fancy stitch after these are done ; and, of
course, carrying the fancy stitch completely across the
shawl, after each row of bouquets is done. This also might
be managed as I have suggested.
Another Knitted Embroidery is simply working, in cross-
stitch, any pattern, or coarse knitting done garter fashion.
The stitches are taken over the ribs. Small chintz patterns
with very bright and distinct colors, and not too many of
them, are well suited to this work ; and pine or palm pat-
terns maintain in it their characteristic elegance and beauty.
It is chiefly employed in Fleecy, or 8 thread Berlin, for
couvre-pieds, quilts, and cushions.
Fluted Embroidery is a variety of orne wool-work, the
wool being of the same kind as that used for orne crochet
and knitting, but worked on canvas. The canvas is of a
:
green tint, resembling railway canvas, and with a
52 GUIPUEE-WORK.
colored thread woven in at the halves and quarters of a
square, as a guide in working. The wool is so dyed that
each ball makes one perfect piece of work, always bearing a
rich and beautiful floral design, on a handsome plain ground.
As great exactness in working is requisite, a knot will be
formed at the end of each length which serves for one row
of the canvas ; and it must be made to do. The term,
fluted
is used because each line being worked over a cord, on both
right and wrong side, it does, in fact, appear fluted. The
stitch is a peculiar one
;
and each piece of work is, or ought
to be, begun and prepared for the worker when sold. One
row is always left partly done, as a guide. In commencing
another, find the exact middle of the next needleful of wool,
and having fixed on a cord, as you will have seen in the
last rows, begin in the centre of the row. Work to the
right ; and when a quarter is done, measure the remainder
of the half of wool, to see whether you have still a fourth
left. If not, slacken or tighten the previous stitches. Finish
that half of the line. Thread again at the middle, and do
the other half. "When this row is done, turn on the other
side, fix another cord, and repeat the process.
Both sides are alike in this work, so that it is very durable,
for one side is new when the other is soiled. It is also
noticeable that the tints brighten considerably with age,
provided they are kept free from dust. A piece of fluted
embroidery is just the size for a handsome cushion. The
designs are numbered, No.
1, 2, 3, 4,
etc. Every piece of
work is accompanied with an excellent engraving of the
design, serving to give an idea of the ultimate result, and as
a guide to the worker.
Guipuke-work.This term is applied to all those open
ground-works
which have been so common, of late years, in
muslin and lace-work. It is done in all muslin-work by
bars, the most beautiful of which are worked in buttonhole-
IRISH GUIPURE. 53
stitch, on a line of thread. They are either straight lines,
crossing each other at angles, in large spaces, or they radiate
ont from eyelet-holes, worked round hi buttonhole stitch,
which is still richer looking. Of course, in covering these
bars with close buttonhole stitch, there is a good deal of
work ; and some people save themselves that trouble by sub-
stituting bars o very narrow cotton braid, or coarse thread.
If either of these be used, care must be taken to secure the
bars in the subsequent working of the pattern. You take a
length of thread or braid (say one and a half yards), and
carry it backwards and forwards, in the directions in which
the bars are marked, until you have used it up ; when you
take another piece. Neither of these can be compared, in
effect, to the buttonhole bars ; but thread is preferable to
braid
;
and No. 000 Evans' Beading Cotton, or No. 4 Boars'
Head will be proper for the purpose. All the groundwork,
in any case, must be done the first, after tracing out the
design.
Guipure lace-work is used for the grounding of Honiton
lace, and, also, with good effect for fine muslin-work. It has
the merit of wearing extremely well. It consists of long-
buttonhole-stitches, taken at fully one-fourth of an inch, and
twisted twice after every stitch, so that the depth is nearly
equal to the length. One line is worked on another, until
the entire ground is so filled in, the sprigs being connected
with the bars whenever you come to them. Very fine
thread is used.
Guipure net is a net imitating guipure grounds. (See JSFets.)
Irish Guipure, or imitation of point lace in crochet, is a
most tedious and complicated sort of work, consisting of
heavy ilowers, arabesques, and other designs, connected by
ban meant to look like Raleigh. That it is a miserable
affair, by the side of the original work, no one will doubt.
It is handsome enough, however, in its way. As each
54: HOXITOX LACE.
design must be worked stitch by stitch according to the
directions given with it, it would be useless to enter on any
extended explanation of its intricacies here.
Hoxitox Lace, imitated ix Ceochet.Those who are
fond of crochet may imitate very admirably, almost any
ordinary specimen of this beautiful lace, and produce collars
and sleeves of exquisite appearance, at a trilling cost. The
ordinary stitches, only, are employed, with the aid of Hen-
riquez or Cordovan lace, or English spots, all of which are
frequently seen to fill up flowers, in thereal Honiton. As
each flower and sprig is made separately, and completely
finished ofl" by itself, this kind of work, occupying no space,
is very convenient in company. Each sprig should be put
away until the requisite number is collected. Then the bor-
der or edging must be worked, in one piece
;
for which pur-
pose, you must decide on the shape and size of the article to
be worked. "When completed, you make them up, either
by guipuring, or on a foundation of Brussels net, in the same
way as you would transfer.
It improves the appearance of some patterns, to work a
line of very fine Sorrento, with Evans' Xo. 150 Boar's Head,
on all the outlines, after the collar, or other article, is
made up.
Believing this to be one of the prettiest and most useful
varieties of crochet, I give, in a subsequent part of this
work, patterns of sprigs, with directions for working, and
an illustration of the mode of making up. The greater part
of the flowers will be found
figured
in parts. These figures
indicate the number of chain. I have adopted this method
of engraving, as less trying to the worker than the usual one,
with long directions. A fine purl edge should finish every
collar, or other piece of imitation Honiton.
KNITTINGPOSITION OF THE HANDS. 55
KXITTIXG.
This elegant art cannot fail to hold a high place among
what may be termed the Manual Accomjylishments of ladies,
from the beauty, variety, and durability of the articles
fabricated, not less than from the extreme facility of execu-
tion. It is well known that persons who are totally blind,
as well as the aged, and those whose sight is weak, can pro-
duce knitting as delicate in texture and perfect in design as
is done by those whose eyes are perfectly strong. This
alone will always render knitting a popular amusement. It
is true that those whose visual organs are strong, frequently
employ them as much in knitting as in crochet, netting, or
even lace-work. This is wrong. No one can tell how soon
she may have to deplore feeble sight, or even total blindness.
Age, at all events, will come to most of us, when the eyes
are sure to become dim
;
and when we can practise even
one art, with accuracy, and comfort to ourselves, without a
light, we have gained a resource which very few women
will not find a thousand occasions of appreciating. Knitting
is, therefore, either a toil or a pleasure. To render it the
latter, attention must be paid to the position of the hands,
and the uses to which the fingers are applied. The imple-
ments are simple
;
either two, four, or five needles (some-
times called pins). The one on which the stitches are to be
transferred, is held in the right hand
;
the work itself, and
other needle or needles, in the left. In acquiring the proper
mode of holding the needles, especially the left-hand one,
you lay the foundation for becoming a rapid, and an elegant
knitter
;
and a little attention and practice will quickly enable
; to work any but a very complicated pattern without
looking at it ; a point which every knitter ought to aim at.
Position of the Hands.The risdit-hand needle should
56 CASTING ON.
be laid over the hand, between the thumb and forefinger
;
the thumb should be trained to keep close to the needle
always, not to move with every stitch. The thread crosses the
nail of the forefinger, which is held near the needle, a little
in advance, of the last stitch, and so that it moves with the
greatest ease. The thread goes under the second and third
fingers, and round the little one, which, as it were, regulates
the supply, keeping it from being either too loose or too
tight for the work. The left-hand needle is held, near the
point, between the thumb and second finger. The thumb
should slightly press the first stitches, so as to keep them
from slipping off the needle ; the finger should hold the
needle a little lower down; and it is further kept in its
place by the pressure of the third and little fingers, which
hold it firmly against the edge of the palm. The forefinger
has hitherto not been mentioned. Its office is to feel each
stitch, with its delicate and sensitive tip, and push it up to
the point of the needle, ready to be knitted. By coming to an
understanding with this most useful member, you will soon
find that it will keep you perfectly informed of the nature
of the stitch next to be knitted (whether a purl, a knitted,
or a made stitch, etc.), and its susceptibility may be culti-
vated until you can perform the most delicate work as well
in the dark as in the light.
If four or five needles be employed, the two absolutely in
use must be held as described; the others naturally fall
below the left hand. If two very long needles are used, you
will hold the right-hand one under your hand, and pressed
closely against the side.
Casting on.The first process in knitting is called cast-
ing on. It is done with two needles. Make a loop, like a
slip-knot, near the end of your thread, insert the needle,
draw it up nearly tight, and hold the needle in the left hand.
Take the other in the right hand, holding it, and the thread,
TWIST AXD TWIST PURL-STITCH.
57
as directed. Put the point in the stitch already made,
x , move the fingers of the right hand, so as to carry the
thread round the point of this needle, which then draw
slightly down, and towards you, so as to make the thread
into a loop. There is now one on each needle. Put the
rh (right-hand) needle point behind the other, which insert
into the new loop, without withdrawing the right hand.
Repeat from the
x ,
until you have the required number on
the left-hand needle. If four needles are used, the stitches
are cast on three. You then cast as many as may be
ordered on each, and to close into a round, knit the two
first stitches off, on to the last needle, afterwards. This
must always be allowed for. Thus, if there are to be 24 on
each of three needles, put 26 on the first, and 22 on the last.
When the two are knitted off, to close the round, the num-
bers will be correct.
To Knit
(Jc).
Holding the hands precisely as already
described, insert the rh needle in the stitch to be knitted,
put the thread round by the movement of the fingers, and
drawing the needle doicn, and towards you, let the thread
just put round it form a loop. Then the one from which it
was knitted drop off the point of the lh needle.
To Purl or Pearl
(j)).
The hands as before, but the
thread in front of the work. Insert the needle, downwards,
and in front of the lh one
;
put the thread round, from the
back to the front again, draw the needle back to form the
loop, and then slip the last stitch off the lh needle.
Slip -stitch.Transfer the stitch from one needle to
another without knitting.
Twist-stitch (tte).A stitch pretty enough to be used
more frequently than it is. Instead of knitting in the ordi-
nary manner, insert the needle in the back of the stitch to
be knitted, after which knit as usual.
Twist Purl-stitch (twp).In working backwards and
58 TO EAISE A STITCH MODES OP DECREASING.
forwards, it is needful the purl stitch correspond with the
knitted. Hold the rh needle nearly parallel with that hi
left hand, and behind it. Insert the point in the stitch, and
bring it out, with that of the left hand. Now purl as.
usual.
To Make Stitches (m).To make one stitch, bring the
thread in front merely, if the next stitch be knitted; or
bring it forward and put it round the needle, if followed by
a purl stitch. Besides this, put the thread once, twice, or
oftener round, if two, three, or more are to be made.
Observe, in knitting the following row, that every twist
of the thread over the needle reckons as a stitch ; and that,
if there be two, or more, they must be alternately plain and
purled knitting.
To make many stitches at once, in a row, by casting on,
transfer the right-hand needle to the other hand. Then
twist the thread round the forefinger of the right-hand, to
make a loop. Bend your finger round, to give it a further
twist, and slip on to the needle. Make any number ordered,
which, of course, makes a large hole. Some knitters cast on
in this way, but I do not advise it.
To Raise a Stitch.This occurs where three stitches
have to be made, without producing the hole seen in the
ordinary method. Make one, by bringing the thread in front
;
now take up, and knit, as an ordinary stitch, the bar of
thread between the stitches on the two needles
;
again bring
the thread in front, to make another. Thus three extra ones
are obtained.
Modes of Decreasing

k 2 t.This is the simplest

method. You merely knit two stitches, as if they were one.
P 2 t.Purl two as one. JP 2 t reverse, is to take them
together from the back. (See Twist purl-stitch.)
P 3 t.Purl three as one. P 3 t reverse, slip 2 t, from
the back,
p 1,
pass slip over.
TO CLOSE TIIE TOE OF A SOCK, ETC. 59
Sl
1,
k
1,
pass slip oyer.This has a different effect to
that of knitting two together. In closing diamonds (see
Diamond ^>cittern)^ this ought to "be employed for the first
decrease, and the other mode for the second, in each pat-
tern.
K 3 t.Unless directions to the contrary are given, you
always should do this by slipping two off together, k the
third, and pass the two slip together over. Otherwise, knit
three as one.
K 4 t.SI
1,
k 3 together, and pass the slip-stitch
over. It rarely occurs that more than four are decreased
together.
To join.A weaver's knot, which allows the ends to be
cut off quite closely, is the best; or a stitch may be knitted
with the new thread, and then a few with both. The ends
then fastened off. In lace or insertion, use the former
method, at the straight edge.
To cast off.K
2,
pass the one first knitted over the
other; k
1,
pass the preceding one over it, and so on. The
number passed over are reckoned as cast
off;
one more
than the number has always been knitted.
To close the Toe of a Sock, the Finger of a Glove,
etc.Divide the number of stitches equally on to two
needles. Should there be an odd one, let it be on the front
needle. See that the stitches lie properlythat is, that all
those forming the upper part of the sock (supposing that
one is to be finished) are on one needle, and those of the sole
on the other. Knit two stitches, one off each needle, as
one ; or the odd one alone, if there be such. Again knit
two together
;
pass the first over the second, as in ordinary
casting off; and continue so, always taking a stitch from
each needle as one. When one only is left, cut off the
thread a few inches from the work, and draw the end
through the stitch. Fasten it off on the wrong side,
60 DIAGONAL OPEN-HEM.
Having now described the actual stitch, I will proceed to
give some patterns, which my readers will be able readily to
adapt for themselves to any article they may desire to make,
whilst it will also save space and time, by enabling me to
refer to them in my own recipe.
Brioche-stitch.The number of stitches cast on must be
divisible by 3 without a remainder,
x
m
1,
si
1,
k 2 t. x
repeat to the end. Every row is the same.
Double Knitting.
Useful especially for articles designed
for warmth
;
as coicvre-pieds, blankets for the cots of infants,
etc. An even number of stitches, with six or eight for bor-
der. Corresponding to these do
half
the number of plain
knitted rows, at each end. The three or four border
stitches, at each edge, to be always knitted. Pattern,
thread in front, slip one, as if for purling, thread back, knit
one. Thus, in each row, every alternate stitch only is knit-
ted, and the result is that the two sides of the work are per-
fectly distinct, united only at the edges.
Double Herringbone.Divisible by 4 with 2 over. K
2,
k 2 t, m
1, x
k 2 t at the end.
Or divisible by 3 with 1 over at each edge. K 1 x k
1,
k 2 t, m 1. x
k 1.
Single Herringbone.

4 stitches for 1 line, 7 for

2,
10
for
3,
and so on, besides the edge-stitch, which must be
knitted. K
2,
m
1,
k 2 t. Second and following lines, k 1
(which is always the made stitch of last row), m
1,
k 2 t.
Open-hem.Divisible by
3,
with edge-stitches, which
must be purled.
1st Bow.P 1,
m
1,
k 2 t. x
.
2d Bow.Purled.
Diagonal Open-hem.Divisible by
2,
with at least two
edge-stitches at each edge.
1st How.K 2. x
m
1,
slip
1,
k L, pass the slip
stitch over.
x repeat, k 2.
MOSS-STITCH DAMASK PATTERNS. 61
2d and 4th Hows.Purled.
3d Roic.K 3. x m
1,
slip
1,
k
1,
pass the slip-stitch over.
X
at the last ; slip one over the first edge-^tiioh..
These four rows complete the pattern. It may be- done
on four needles, in which case, the alternate rows are knitted.
It is very pretty for cuffs, sleeves, and many other purposes,
where the work is intended to look
puffed
out : but as it
always has a twist in it, it must not be employed for any flat
or square article.
Moss-stitch.Any number of stitches may be used for
this work
;
and I may remark that it is the one in w^hich all
the orne knitting is done. It consists simply of knitted and
purled stitches. One of each is done alternately ; and in
working backwards and forwards, you will take care to
begin always witli the same kind of stitch as that with which
you terminated the last row, which, of course, will look dif-
ferent. It has a pretty dotted appearance
;
and in the
variegated wools, looks really very soft and mossy.
Damask Patterns.A great variety of patterns may be
made by the combination of the knitted and purled stitches
only. Thus, a Ciiess-boaed Patteest may be formed by
knitting and purling, alternately, an equal number of stitches
;
knitting the purled, and purling the knitted, in the back
rows, so that they look as they would if you were working
round, and knitted on the knitted, and so on. Then, after
as many rows as you have knitted or purled stitches, reverse
them, for as many more. Or a Half-diamond may be made,
thus : x
P
1,
k 7. x to the end, which finish with
p
1.
2c? Bow.

x
k
2, p
5,
k 1. x . End with k 2.
%& lioic.P
3,
k
3, p
2. x . End with
p
3.
Mh Row.

x k
4, p
1,
k 3
x . End with k 4.
This is half the pattern. Do the four rows again, knitting
those you have purled, and purling what you did knit. Any
lady with a little ingenuity can make a number of such pat*
62
DIAMOND KNITTING.
terns, which are applicable to many purposes
;
especially for
counterpanes, doyleys, cake-basket doyleys, and all solid
articles.
Spot-stitch.Divisible by 4. xk 1 always,
p
1,
k 2 x
.
2d Roio.Plain.
3d Roic.

xk3, pi. x.
4th Row.Plain.
Thus, every second stitch is purled once in four rounds
;
and every two thus treated, have the purl-stitch alternately.
Used for gloves.
Pyeenees Diamond Knitting.(Very suitable for Shet-
land shawls.) The number of stitches cast on must be divi-
sible by
3,
exclusive of any border or edging, of which there
should be at least two stitches at each edge purled every
row.
1st How.

xm
1,
si
1,
k
2,
pass the slip-stitch over. x.
Repeat to the end.
2d, 4th, and 6th Roios.purled.
3d How.K
2, x
m
1,
si
1,
k
2,
pass slip over, x as
often as possible. End with m
1,
and purl the final stitch,
together with the first of those forming the edge.
5th Mow.K 1. x m
1,
si
1,
k
2,
pass slip over, x repeat
to within 2 of the end. M
1,
si
1,
k
1,
pass slip over
Repeat these six rows, observing that the first knitted
stitch is always the one over the hole of last row. The
needles employed in this pattern ought to be somewhat
large in proportion to the material used. No 8 with 4
thread Berlin wool; No. 10 with Shetland. Other things
in proportion.
Diamond Knitting.The number of stitches divisible by
six, with 1 over, exclusive of edges. Purl the edge-stitches
in the pattern rows, and all the alternate rows.
1st Row.

x
k
1, m
1,
k 2 t, k
],
k 2 t, m 1. x repeat as
often as you have sixes cast on. K 1.
DIAMOND KNITTING.
63
3d Floic.

x k
2,
m
1,
k 3 t, m
1,
k
1.x
repeat as
before. K 1.
oth Bow.

xk
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
1,
m
1,
k 2 t. x repeat
as before. K 1.
?th Bow.K 2 t.
x
m
1,
k
3,
m
1,
k 3 t. x . Repeat till
5 are left ; then, in
1,
k
3,
m
1,
k 2 t.
These four pattern rows, with the alternate purled ones,
make one complete design, and must be repeated.
Spidee-net Knitting.Stitches divisible by four, and 1
over, exclusive of edges, to be purled as before.
1st JRoic.

x k
1,
m
1,
si, k 2 t, pass slip-stitch over;
m 1. x repeat to the end. K 1.
2d Bow.Hailed.
3d Bow.K 2 t,
x
m
1,
si
1,
k 2 t, pass slip-stitch over
;
m
1,
k 1. x
repeat till 2 are left. M 1,
k 2 t.
4th Bow.--Fnrled.
These four rows make a pattern.
Lasge Diamond Knitting.Stitches in eights ; with 1
over, besides the edges, which must be purled.
1st Bow.

x k
1,
m
1,
k 2 t, k
3,
k 2 t, m 1. x finish
with k 1.
2d and 4th Bow.Purled.
3d Bow.

x
k
2,
m
1,
k 2 t, k
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 1.
x
finish
with k 2.
5th Bow.

x k
3,
m
1,
k 3 t, m
1,
k 2. x
finish with k 3.
Oth lloir.

x m
1, p
2 t,
p
6. x repeat the last time, after
p
6,
m
1, p
2 t, one of these being an edge-stitch.
1th
Bow.X
k
2,
k
2 t, m
1,
k
1,
m
1,
k
2 t, k 1.
X
end
with k 2.
Sth and 10th Bows.Purled.
9th Bow.

X
k
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
3,
m
1,
k 2 t. X
end
with k 1.
llth Bow.K 2 t.
X
m
1,
k
5,
m
1,
k 3 t.
X
end with
k 2 t, instead of three.
64 HALF-DIAMOND-STITCHPLAIT-STITCH KNITTING.
12th Bow.P 4,
m
1, p
2 t.
p
2.
X
repeat as often as
may be.
These twelve rows complete the pattern.
Lozenge Knitting.:As large diamond, taking the rows
in the following order : 1st, 12th, 1st again, 2c?, 3d, 4th, 5th,
6 thy 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th. Another variety may he
obtained by repeating 1st and 12th rows as above, but not
repeating 6th and 7th. The design now will be oblongs in
one line, and diamonds in the other.
Half-diamond-stitchDivisible by
6,
exclusive of edges.
1st Bow.

X
m
1,
k
4,
k 2 t.
X-
2c? and every other alternate Hoio.Purled.
3d Bote.

Xk 1,
m
1,
k
3,
k 3 t,
X.
5th Bow.K 2,
m
1,
k
2,
k 2 t.
X.
7th Bow.
X
k
3,
m
1,
k
1,
k 2 t.
X.
9th Bow.K 4,
m
1,
k 2 t.
X.
Uth Bow.

X
K
4,
m
1,
k 2 t,
X.
Observe that the
nearest of the two knitted together is a made stitch.
13th Bow.

x k 2 t (the first time with one from the bor-

der), k
3,
m
1,
k 1.
X.
15th Bow.

X
k 2 t (fir^t time as in 13th), k
2,
m
1,
k
2.X
.
17th Boid.

X
k 2 t (first time as before), k
1,
m
1,
k
3.X.
19th Bow.

X
k 2 t (first time as before), m
1,
k
4.X.
The 20th Bow, which, like all the alternate rows, is purled,
completes this pattern.
Plait-stitch Knitting.This is a very pretty, but some-
what tedious stitch, until dexterity has been acquired by
practice. It is especially suitable for wool-work. Two
needles, at least double the size of those which would be
usually considered appropriate for the material, and one
finer and very short one, pointed at each end. Cast on
a number divisible by
4,
exclusive of the edge stitches, of
which there should be three, at least, at each edge.
1st Bote.Slip oil* the two first pattern stitches, on the
MYRTLE LEAF AND CABLE PATTERN.
65
short needle, which hold with your other left-hand one, but
between your person and your work. Knit the next two,
then these two, in their proper order. Do every four
stitches like these.
<
2d How.Purled. Purl the two first pattern stitches.
Slip off the next two, and hold the extra needle as before,
but behind the work. Purl two, then the slipped two. Re-
peat these four
;
and purl the last two plain.
Myrtle Leaf Pattern may be done with two or four
needles. Divisible by 13.
1st Hoic.P
2,
m
1,
k
4,
k 3 t, k
4,
m 1. x repeat.
2d, and all alternate rows,
if
with two needles.P 11, k 2.
If with four,
p
2,
k 11.
3 d JRow.F
2,
k
1,
m
1,
k
3,
k 3 t, k
3,
m
1,
k 1.
5th Row.F
2,
k
2,
m
1,
k
2,
k 3 t, k
2,
m
1,
k 2.
1th Bow.F 2,
k
3, m 1,
k
1,
k 3 t, k
1,
m
1,
k 3.
9th Bow.P
2,
k
4, m 1,
k 3 t, m
1,
k 4.
The ten rows or rounds complete one pattern.
Cable Pattern.This presents the twisted appearance
of a cable.
4, 6,
8 or 10 stitches may form the cable, with
4 or 6 purl stitches between, and as many at each edge. 6
make a good cable, and say 4 between, you will require your
stitches divisible by 10,
and 4 over.
1st Bow.

x
p
4,
k
6,
x .
2(7,
and all alternate rows.x
k
4, p
6. X .
3d Row.Like first.
5th How {with another needle).

x
p
4,
slip 3 on the third
needle, k the next
3,
now knit in the same order in which they
ought originally to have come, the three on the extra nee-
dle, x
.
1th Row.Like first.
These eight rows complete a pattern. If the cable has
8 stitches, two more plain rows will be needed ; and a like
increase for a still larger cable. If done with four needles,
66 CORONET AND FEATHER PATTERN.
the alternate rows must be done like the first, not like the
second.
Coronet Pattern {border).Divisible by 15,
and edge,
which purl.
1st Row.Purled.
2c7 Row.Knitted.
3d Row.SI
1,
k
1,
pass slip over,
X
k
6,
m 6 (see direc-
tions for making many stitches), k
6,
k 3 t.
X
last time, k 2 t.
4th Row.P 2 t,
X p 16, p
3 t, reversed.
X.
End with
p
2 t reversed.
5th Row.SI 1,
k
1,
pass the slip-stitch over,
X
k
4,
now
k the six made stitches, making one before every one, so in-
creasing them to
12
; k
4,
k 3 t.
X
last time, k 2 t.
6th Roio.P 2 t.
x p 18, p
3 t, reversed, last time k 2 t
rev.
1th Row.SI
1,
k
1,
pass slip over.
X
k
16,
k 3 t,
X
last
time, k 2 t.
8th Row.P 2 t,
X p 14, p
3 t reverse.
X
last time 2 only.
9th Row.SI
1,
k
1,
pass slip over,
X
k
12,
k 3 t
X
last
time, k 2 t.
10th Row.Purled.
These ten rows complete the pattern.
Feather Pattern.Divisible by 14, with 3 over, which
allows the first three stitches of the pattern to be repeated
at the end of the row.
1st Roto.

X p
1,
k
1, p
1,
*
k
1,
m 1
*
10 times, k
1, X.
repeat to the end of the row.
2d Row.

X
k
1, p
1,
k
1, p
21
X.
3d Row.

X p
1,
k
1, p
1,
k
4,
k 2 t, k
9,
slip
1,
k
1,
pass
slip over, k 4
X.
4th Row.

X
k
1, p
1,
k
1, p 3, p
2 t reverse,
p 0, p
2 t,
p
3.
X.
5th Row.
X
V h
k ]
>
P
1
k
2,
k 2 t, k
9,
k 2 t slip, k
2.
X.
SCALLOP SHELL PATTERN.
67
6th Mow.

X
k
1, p
1,
k
1, p 1, p
2 t rev.
p 9, p
2 t,
pi,
X.
1th Row.

X p
1,
k
1, p
1,
k 2 t, k
9,
k 2 t, s%>.
X.
8th Bow.K
1, p
1,
k
1, p
9.
To make this pattern more open, the thread may be put
twice round the needle, as if to make two stitches, the loop
being knitted as one only.
Scallop Shell Patteen (border).Divisible by 20, and
edge, which purl.
1st Row.Purled.
2d Row.Purled.
3d Roic.

X
m
1,
*
tw
1, p
1,
*
9 times, tw 2 t.
X.
4th Row.

X p
2 t rev.
*
twp 1,
k
1,
*
8 times ; twp
1,
m
1,
twp 1
X.
5th Row.
X
tw
1,
k
1,
m 1.
*
tw
1, p
1,
*
8 times,
tw 2 t.
X.
Gt/t Row.

X p
2 t rev.
*
twp 1,
k
1,
*
7 times, twp 1. m
1, p
2 t, m
1,
twp 1.
X
1th Roic.

X
tw
1,
k
3,
m
1,
*
tw
1, p
1,
*
7 times,
tw 2 t.
X

8th Row.

X p
2 t rev.
*
twp 1,
k
1,
*
6 times; twp
1,
m
1, p
2 t, m
1, p
2 t, m
1, twp 1.
X
.
9th Row.

X
tw
1,
k
5,
m
1,
*
tw
1, p
1,
*
6 times ; tw 2
t,
X.
10th Row.

X p
2 t rev.
*
twp
1,
k
1,
*
5 times; twp
1,
m
1, p
2 t, m
1, p
2 t, m
1, p
2 t, m
1,
twp 1
X
llth Row.

X
tw 1,
k
7,
m 1
*
tw
1, p
1,
*
5 times.
12th Row.

X p
2 t rev.
*
twp
1,
k
1,
*
4 times; twp
1,
-s- m
1, p
2 t,
-5-
4 times; m
1,
twp 1.
X.
13th Row.

X
tw 1,
k
9,
m 1
*
tw
1, p 1, X
4 times; tw
2 t.
X.
14th Row.

X p
2 t rev.
*
twp
1,
k
1,
*
3 times
;
twp
1,
-f- m
1, p
2 t, -r- 5 times; m
1,
twp 1
X.
15th Row.

x
tw 1,
k
11, m
1, tw
1, p
1, tw
1, p
1,
tw
1,
p
1,
tw 2 t,
X.
68 FTm.T, KM1T1SX3-.
16th Sow.

X p
2 t rev. twp 1,
k
1,
twp
1,
k
1,
twp
1,
*
m
1, p
2 t,
*
6 times; ni
1,
twp 1.
X.
17th Sow.

X
tw
1,
k
13, Bi
1,
tw
1, p
1,
tw
1, p
1,
tw 2 t,
'X
.
ISth Sow.

X p
2 t rev, twp 1,
k
1,
twp
1,
*
m
1, p
2 t,*
7 times; m
1,
tw 1.
19th Sow.X tw
1,
k 17, m
1,
tw
1, p
1,
tw 2 t,
X.
20th Sow.

X p
2 t, rev. twp
1,
m
1,
*
p
2 t, m
1,
*
S
times twp 1.
X
21st Boic.
x
tw
1,
k
17,
m
1,
tw 2 t.
X.
22d Boic

Piirl20.
Ridge Pattekx.Knit one row
;
pnrl one ; knit one.
4th Bote.p 2.
X
m
2, p
2 t.
X
to the end.
5th Sow.Knitted, treating ever two made stitches in last
row as one.
6th Sow.Pnrled.
1th Boic.Knit this row, taking np, at every stitch, one
of those of the first row.
This may be made wider "by repeating the 4th and 5th rows.
This stitch is principally nsed either in one of two colors,
the rest of the work being done in the other, or in thick
wool, as zephyr, when the rest of the fabric is in Shetland.
In either case it is easy to take up the loops of the first row,
a few at a time, if there be many; or at all events, if not too
numerous, using a finer needle, and holding the two in the
left hand, to knit from.
Feill Knitting.In this there are, on one side, loops of
wool, about an inch wide, and numerous enough to make a
full frill, as if of quilled net. Rather fine steel needles
should be employed, even if all the rest of the article be
done with coarse D s. Cast on any number of stitches, and
knit one plain row.
1st Pattern Bote.Insert the point of the needle in the
stitch to be knitted, then put the wool three, four, or five
times round it, and the first and second fingers of the left
HONEYCOMB KNITTING.
69
hand, ending with putting it again round the needle. Knit
this as an ordinary stitch. Do each in the row so.
2d.Twist-knit every stitch, treating each collection of
loops as one stitch. Repeat these two rows. It is a nice
trimming for the front of children's hoods, setting in a full
frill round the face ; for brioche mat borders and other pur-
poses.
Chinchilla Fee Teimming.Have four good, shades of
8 thread fleecy grey wool, with black. They should be
very distinctthe darkest nearly black; the lightest very
light. Also some black or grey 4 thread fleecy. Knit this,
in common garter-stitch, of any width you may want the fur.
Fourteen stitches is a good width. Do the required length.
Xow work the coarse wool in cross-stitch, on every ridge of
the knitting, having the wool double in a coarse rug needle,
and at every stitch making a loop over a netting mesh, one
inch, or rather more, wide. Do three rows black; then
three of each grey, from darkest to lightest of which six;
then in succession back again to black. Afterwards cut all
the loops, and comb it out. Sew it on as a fur trimming to
basques, polkas, etc. It must always be taken off to be
washed.
Honeycomb Knitting.White wool and one color. Any
number of stitches divisible by five, with four needles,
or with two extra stitches and two needles. With four
needlescast on the stitches with the white wool, close into
a round
;
purl two rounds. Join on the colored, x slip the
two first stitches, as if you were going to purl them, then
with the colored wool knit 3
;
repeat these five all round for
four rounds ; so that, in fact, the same two out of every five
are never knitted at all. Then with the white wool x purl
2,
knit 3 x one round, and purl every stitch for two rounds.
These seven rounds make the pattern.
In working with two needles, of course in every alternate
70 TO KNIT AN IMITATION OF MOSS.
round, the knitted stitches of the previous one must be
purled, and vice versci.
Diamond Honeycomb.An even number of stitches re-
quired.
1st Roio.Thread in front, sbVp one as for purling, k
1,
repeat to the end.
2d.

x
k
2,
slip one, which is always the one made by the
thread passing over the needle,
x .
del.

x
k 2 t, thread in front, slip one as for purling
x
repeat to the end, when thread in front k 1.
4th.K
1,
slip 1.
x
k
2,
slip one, as in second, to the end,
when there will be an odd one to knit.
5th.

x thread in front, slip one as for purling, k 2 t

x .
Repeat these four rows, second to fifth, as often as wanted.
Observe, in casting off to knit together, the long stitch
and the short one it covers as one.
Also, in reckoning the rows done of this work, count them
on the wrong side. Every other one, in fact, being no row
at all.
To knit an Imitation of Moss.Procure good shades
of emerald and olive green, and rich brown. There should
be four or five shades of each. With steel needles, which
are very fine in proportion to the wool, cast on with the
darkest shade of any color fourteen stitches. Knit an inch
or so in common garter-stitch; join on the next consecutive
shade with a weaver's knot ; do the same ; repeat with every
shade of this color to the lightest, then back to the darkest.
Continue till you have done as much as you need. Use every
color in the same way. Or, you may do all on one piece,
knitting the various colors alternately ; but I do not like this
so well. Now wet your work thoroughly with clean water,
and hold it as near as possible to a brisk fire to dry, without
scorching. If the oven be not very hot, it may be put in
there.
When dry and crisp, shave off one edgethat is,
KNOTTING. ^1
cut it without going deeper than you can help. Unravel all
the stitches but two, which are sufficient to make one edge
perfectly solid. If you want narrow moss, six or eight,
instead of fourteen stitches, will do. (For its uses, see
Mats.)
KNOTTING.
This sort of work seems to have fallen, very undeservedly,
into disuse. Still, many of my readers may be glad to know
how it is executed, especially as it is both pretty and easy.
It used to be employed for the coverings of reticules, sofa
cushions, fishing bags and purses ; and probably was also put
to many other uses. The material is fine whip-cord, string,
or crochet cord. For purses, coarse crochet silk may be
used.
Cut lengths of cord at least six times as long as the article
you want to make. Take another piece, and at one end of
it tie one of the long pieces exactly in the middle. Fasten
another long piece, in like manner, about the sixth of an
inch off, and continue so till you have tied in a line a sufficient
length for what you want. If it is to be a round, tie the
ends of the foundation string close together, so that the
threads shall be all at equal distances. A round must be
worked over a cushion, so that it can be shifted. A flat piece
must be pinned firmly on a pillow.
Now take four threads.
Hold one from each pair, as centre threads, and make of the
left hand one a loop, on the right side of them. Take the
right hand thread

pass it from underneath

through this
loop, over the centre threads, under both parts of the left-
hand thread, again over the centre, and down, through the
loop again. Holding the centre ones steadily, draw up the
others. Repeat with right-hand thread
; continue alternately
72 CANVAS LACE-W0EK.
until say six stitches are done. Do every four threads so.
Then reverse the threads, the right hand of one set, and left
of the next, being the centres of the next line of knots. Work
longer or shorter pieces to fancy. All knotted work must
be lined.
LACE-WORK.
This is darning in various patterns, on bobbinets ; and
from the very moderate price, and good quality of the manu-
factured article, that made by hand is noAV comparatively
but little used. The design was generally drawn on paper,
and tacked under the net. Then all the outlines were traced
(by running in and out), with glazed cotton, an article now
nearly obsolete. The leaves and flowers were then filled in,
the heavy parts with close darning, the ligher in various
fancy stitches, all darned in different ways, with lace-cotton,
which was extremely fine.
Borders were usually done in such patterns as could be
counted by threads. Many were very pretty ; and they
had the merit of washing and wearing well. A purling was
always sewed on the edge.
Those who are disposed to try this sort of work, should
select a net with no dress in it, and allow amply for the
inevitable shrinking. Evans' Moravian, No.
70,
would be
suitable for heavy parts, and their 150 Boars' Head for the
darned fancy stitches.
Canvas Lace-work, is an imitation, on canvas, of black
lace, for which any square crochet pattern will answer. The
close stitches are done in black 4 thread Berlin ; the open
squares in fine black silk : all in cross-stitch. It is pretty for
some purposes. Bags worked in colors have, not unfre-
quently, a border in this work. It was very popular a few
years ago, but is not very much used now.
BRODERIE ANGLAISE.
73
MUSLIN-WORK.
Muslin-work, or Embroidery on Muslin.This is
especially of two kinds, exclusive of Swiss lace, or applique
of muslin or tulle. They are English embroidery, more
generally known, even among us, by its French name,
Broderie Anglaise, and French embroidery.
Broderie Axglaise is by far the simplest, although it
requires, like everything else which is worth doing at all,
care and skill to give it due effect. It is that sort of work
in which the design is made in holes of various forms
;
and
has had, during the last few years, a marvellous success.
Everybody has worked Broderie Anglaise, for collars, sleeves,
skirts, and under-linen ; and some has been done in a style
which compelled one to wish that the holes had been merely
cut out of the muslin and left so
;
the addition of cotton, and
the time requisite to sew it over, merely serving to make it
more conspicuously ugly. When well done, it is, however,
very handsome and effective
;
and compared with the elabo-
rate work of France, is quickly done. In all this work, the
pattern is marked on the muslin or other material ; those
who have not facilities for purchasing it ready done, may
copy any design they see in the magazines or elsewhere, by
means of pounced patterns. (See Pounced patterns?) But
as those who make it their business to transfer them, do so
with much more accuracy than amateurs, the prepared work
procurable in shops is by far the most convenient. The mus-
lin must then be tacked on toile ciree, and all the outlines
traced. This is done with cotton two or three numbers
coarser than that employed for sewing. Any part that is
afterwards to be covered with a depth of work, such as a
scallop, has a line of thread run along each outline, and the
space filled in with other tracing threads, taken close
to each other, and sometimes even over each other, so as
4
74 GRADUATED BUTTONHOLE-STITCH.
considerably to raise the surface. The stitches, in tracing,
must always be done in the direction of the length of the
leaf, scallop, or other object. "When leaves are worked in
satin-stitch, and have to be veined, the space for the veinings
must be carefully left in tracing. This portion of the work
finished, you cut out, always within the tracing thread, such
parts as require it, and then work over the edges, either by
sewing over or overcasting. In the former, you sew the edges
in a succession of close stitches, lying evenly one by another
;
and it greatly improves the appearance of the work, and
adds to its durability, if you hold in a thread of hard twisted
(Boar's Head) cotton, and work over it. You do not fasten
off at every hole or flower, but pass the thread at the back
of the work, from one part to the one nearest. The Boar's
Head thread must be cut off. Round holes, when not very
large, are pierced with a stiletto. If overcasting is done,
the stitches should be fine, even, and quite close.
Graduated Buttonhole-stitch, or Rose Scalloping, is
much raised, and worked over in overcast. The great art is
to make the edges of the stitches very even, presenting
clear, regular, scallops. A bad worker makes them misera-
bly jagged, so that it is difficult to cut the muslin away after-
wards. This is distinguished from ordinary scallops by
being each large one composed of a succession of smaller
;
whereas, in a common scallop, the outer edge is one clear
curve. The French use the term, point de rose, for all
graduated buttonhole-stitch, whether used for an edge
or not.
SCALLOPS EYELET-HOLE SPOTS. 75
Scallops, may be sharp or pointed. In either case, they
are threaded, raised, and worked over like the rose scallops,
observe, that the greater the width of any scallop, in its
widest part, the more it should be raised.
Eyelet-hole, is any small round hole, whether sewed or
buttonholed.
Chtxese Eyelet-holes are used to
represent bunches of grapes, and for
other ornaments. In the patterns they
are marked by a large circle, and a
very small one within, but not in the
centre of it. They are always raised,
and worked in overcast, the needle
being put in the small hole at every
stitch. To work them evenly, so that
the outer circle may be well filled, and yet the threads not
lie too close in the inner, requires much skill, since there are,
of course, the same number of stitches in each part.
Spots.If very small, they are made by taking
two or
three stitches in precisely the same place, so that one falls
over another. If large, you trace and raise them, and work
in satin-stitch.
During the last year or so, a new style of embroidery,
used only for morning, or neglige toilette, has come up
;
and
from the rapidity of its execution it is termed
Bkodeeie a la
Minute, and a la Poste. In the former, the design is
entirely a succession of dots, as in the engraving;
in the
latter, the pattern varies, and may even
be very elaborate
;
but the stitch is the same for both, only
that a spot does not
require so many windings of the thread round the needle as
a straight line would do. I append a diagram
of the needle
with the thread on it, and also various
leaves, flowers, and
other forms usually
found in
Broderie
d la Minute and d la
Poste.
76 EEOEEELE A LA MINUTE AND A LA POSTE.
2, Q^ rP
"
2 "corf"
o
8
8

V?o
Cft
6
'O
o oO
: 0"
%>r>-.o
ftOP
^c>
efcceO
-
3
<toooo
o*
c
o^o
o
CO
I should observe that collars and cuffs d la Minute (they
are always made to match), are done in double muslin, the
As
III
A
\>
X
>
)]
marked piece and a plain. The edges are run
together at
the outline
;
cut even, turned inside out, and
stitched on the
inside line. It is then ready
for mounting on toile ciree.
FRENCH EMBROIDERY. 11
Collars and cuffs d la poste have usually a small scalloped
edge. Evans's royal perfectionne embroidery cotton, No.
8,
is the proper material for this work, on stout but fine jaconet.
C
French Embroidery includes all the delicate and most
expensive kinds, worked in satin-sitch, with overcast and
the various open and fancy stitches. The tracing is done as
in Broderie Anglaise, but more closely, in proportion to the
delicacy of the design. Satin-stitch is done by a succession
of stitches, always across the leaf or other part, lying close
to, but not over one another, with even edges, so that no
one stitch is conspicuous. The delicacy of the material
regulates the size of the cotton employed ; but the perfec-
tionne embroidery cotton before mentioned, from 30 to 100,
will be found suitable. Occasionally Moravian is used. This
is the mode of working on merino or cloth, with silks.
Yeining, is simply tracing, and then sewing over, the veins
of the leaves. It is done after the satin-stitch.
Sometimes one half of a leaf is in satin-stitch the other
covered with small dots. These are made either by sewing
over two or three stitches in the same place, or by minute
French knots, for which see Embroidery.
There exists a vast variety of fancy-stitches, for filling in
78
THE WHEEL.
the open parts of French embroidery. Many of the point-
stitches, especially the wheels, spots, and cross-bars of vari-
ous sorts, may be employed with great advantage. I will
also describe some others.
The Wheel.In the space to be filled work a line of
Long Brussels edge, and then strengthen it by twisting
round, a stitch under the outer line of every stitch. Within
this you may work a rosette, or an English lace spot, or a
set of radiating bars, or other stitches of which I append
engravings.
No.l. No. 2. No. 3.
No.
1.
In this a line of long Brussels (see Point stitches)
is worked all round ; then a rosette, or four cross-bars
;
after which take a stitch on the edge of every Brussels stitch,
all round. The centre of the wheel ought to be solid.
Ho. 2 is an English lace spot, worked on seven cross-bars.
No.
3.
This pretty pattern is formed entirely of Long
Brussels stitches, and worked from the outer to the inner
part of the circle. Do the outer round at even distances,
then take a stitch under the edge of each. Pass on to the
next innermost circle ; do three Long Brussels ; miss the
space of four, all round. Work on the edge like the last
;
in the next circle, do four stitches in each long space, and
again strengthen the edge by working on it ; fill the next
round with Long Brussels stitches, at equal close distances,
work round
;
then a round of plain Brussels.
THE WHEEL.
9
No.
4.
The principle of working this is the same as the
last, but the arrangement of the stitches is different, and an
English spot is worked in the centre. Refer to the engra-
ving in working it.
No. 6.
No.
5.
Do three Long Brussels, and miss a space equal
to that in the engraving, before you do the next three.
When this round is done, pass the needle under, as before, to
make a firm edge. Then a round of Brussels, almost close,
working this edge also. Work round to the middle of one
of the spaces
;
take a long stitch to the centre of the next
space, twist back in it three times, and take another long
stitch, and so on, all round. Work on the edge, as in the
rest, and at every bar make a small English spot.
Xo.
6.
Do a close round of Long Brussels, and work the
edge
;
then take a long stitch across one-sixth of the space
;
X
twist closely back on half of it, and do four more long
close twisted stitches in the same place
;
take another, miss-
ing a sixth ; repeat from the cross. Do a row of Brussels
on it ; work the edge, then take bars across, as in the engra-
ving, and darn backwards and forwards across two, for the
spot.
2STo. 7.
Do the usual first round ; then a long stitch,
across one-seventh of the round
;
another tight stitch in the
same. Repeat so that there w
r
ill be seven of these stitches.
Now do three Ions: twisted stitches for a bar on each of the
so
THE WHEEL.
tight stitches, and between every two sets, a stitch on the
loop, with a spot on it. Twist back on all these, and finish
with an inner line of Brussels,
No. 7.
No. 8. No. 9.
No. 8.
One plain round ; then on one-sixth, backwards
and forwards, for the point ; take stitches on the edge, to
bring the needle to the next sixth, and so on, all round ; fin-
ish with a rosette from bars connecting all the points.
No.
9.The usual plain round, edged ; then eight long and
closely-twisted stitches, within which another close round is
worked.
No. 10. No. 11. No. 12.
No. 10.The first round as before. Take three bars
across, at regular distances, as if for a rosette, instead of
which, darn, backwards and forwards (like English bars) be-
tween every pair.
No. 11.
The first round here must be doubly twisted, and
edged
;
the next,
once twisted and edged
;
then four twisted
THE WHEEL. 81
bars, as in the engraving, to form a cross, and a spot in the
centre.
No.
12.
Worked like No.
6,
but with two instead of five
twisted bars in each stitch, and an ordinary English spot in
the centre.
No. 13. No. 14.
No. 15.
No. 13.Like No.
10;
but four twisted bars are taken
across, in pairs, like those of Cordovan Lace
;
and you darn
in English bars between them, leaving the centre, where
they all cross, open.
No. 14.Like No. 12, with three long twisted bars in one
stitch, and then a space. In working the next round, of
Long Brussels, keep these three together, by not taking any
stitch between them. Do an English spot in the middle.
No. 15.Not very dissimilar to the last, but the long
twisted bars are in six pairs, with the space of one stitch be-
tween every pair ; and a Cordovan spot worked to connect
them.
No. 18.
82 THE WHEEL.
No. 16.Like No. 14, with four English spots in the
centre.
No. 17.
The six spots in the centre of this are Mechlin
wheels, rounds of thread covered with buttonhole-stitch, and
worked so as to touch and support each other.
No. 18.
The first round of Brussels here has a double
twist, and is worked over. The next is simply Long Brus-
sels, worked over ; then twisted bars are taken across, and a
square spot darned.
No. 19. No. 20.
No.
19.This is a very pretty stitch. In the first round
the stitches of Long Brussels are somewhat apart, and edged.
Then a stitch is taken, missing one quarter of the stitches.
Then another, and another, and another. Twist a little way
up one, and then work on it in Brussels Lace, and backwards
and forwards in the same to make the square.
No.
20.For the inner white circle here, you must take
down an outline thread
;
work it closely in buttonhole-stitch,
and do a line of Brussels at each edge of it. Edge them. From
the outer line, take the threads for the foundation of each
spot, and carry a line round, working each, where the three
cross.
In all these wheels, the thread is twisted down one or
more bars, to the outer circle again, from the centre, for
fastening oft*. They must all be done in Evans' Boar's Head
Cotton, No. 150.
SHELL AND CEOSS-STITCH. 83
These stitches will be found very useful in repairing work
that has been worn out, or been injured by the laundress.
Shell-stitch, for oblong spaces. Make one row of Brus-
sels edge of stitches at double the usual distance. Work
backwards and forwards, doing nine stitches on each stitch
in the first row ; then eight on nine, seven on eight, six on
seven, and so on. This is pretty, also, for Point Lace.
Ceoss-Stitch, suitable for large
spaces. Draw three threads and
leave three throughout the space
in both directions. Hold your work
on the wrong side, and with a very
fine thread take a stitch under
every three threads, between every
set of threes in the opposite direc-
tion. Do this both ways xuitil they
are formed into lines of bars. (See Point lace.) In darning,
you work always from the centre open square, outwards;
two of the spots, therefore, in every cross are darned up and
down, and the other two across.
Another pretty stitch, for which no name is
found, is made by drawing four and leaving
four threads, in each direction, like the last.
Take a stitch on one bar, and then across the
space, and do half the opposite bar. Carry
the thread round the corner, do half that bar,
and carry the thread to the opposite side ; cross the one al-
ready there. "Work a stitch round that bar, and then proceed
to fill in another square. Every alternate one is done thus.
Fill a space with Venetian bars, make a
cross in each square, take two or three button-
hole stitches to connect them firmly in the
centre, and work a Venetian dot between
every pair of threads.
I have given above a collection of twenty
84 NEITING THE STITCH.
varieties of wheels, which my readers will find it perfectly-
easy to do, after studying the directions for Point Lace and
those for Embroidery. The small circles, with thick white
lines, always represent buttonhole-stitch. Evans' Boar's
Head, 100, 120, or 150, must be used for them.
NETTING.
The implements used are a netting-needle, which is a bar
of steel or ivory, open at both ends, and with a small round
hole in which to fasten the end of thread ; a plain bar, flat or
round, which is called a mesh ; with cotton, silk, or other
material. A stirrup is useful for holding the work. It is a
strip of embroidered canvas, an inch wide and five or six
long, lined with ribbon, of which about a yard and a quarter
is left, forming a long loop, from one end of the canvas to
the other. This is worn on the foot, the foundation of the
netting being attached to the ribbon, which ought to be long
enough to come within a pleasant range of sight. But,
though not so neat and pretty, a fine cord passed round the
foot answers all the purpose; and still better is a small
cushion screwed firmly to the edge of the table.
The Stitch.Tie the end of your thread in a knot to the
stirrup, or to a thread fastened to it, if it be a ribbon. Take
the mesh in your left hand, and hold it between the finger
and thumb, parallel with the former, and close under the
knot. The hand is so placed that the other fingers turn in-
wards, towards you. Pass the thread over the fore, middle
and third fingers, round the last, and again over the others,
and under the mesh. Catch it with the thumb ; now carry
it loosely under all the fingers, and insert the needle
under
the upper part of the former loop, over the second part of it,
ajid in the stitch to be worked, or under the foundation loop.
SQUARE AND HONEYCOMB NETTING.
85
Draw out the needle towards you, first dropping off the first
loop, and then gradually tightening the other, retaining it,
however, on the little finger as long as possible, to prevent it
from knotting. "When as many stitches are done as needful,
work backwards on them, for a flat piece, but for a round,
you must close it by taking the first stitch of last row as the
first of this ; after which work round and round. The foun-
dation thread may finally be drawn out. Common netting
stitch forms a diamond. Take care that
every stitch be drawn up evenly, quite close
to the mesh, as long and irregular stitches
spoil the beauty of the work. You always
increase in netting by doing two or more
stitches in one hole.
Squaee Xetting is the simple stitch done so as to have
the shape of a square instead of a diamond. Begin on one
stitch
;
and, working backwards and forwards, always do two
in the last stitch of every row, until you have one hole less,
counting from the point up one side, than the design requires.
This forms a half square, when needed. Do one row without
increase, and then net two together at the end of every row,
till the two last are taken as one. This work always requires
to be damped, slightly stiffened, and pinned out straight to
dry, to give it its proper shape.
An Oblong Piece of Squaee Xetting.Do the half
square and plain row as in the last. Then decrease at the
end of every alternate row only ; increasing one at the end
of every intermediate one. When you have one hole less
than you want, on the long side, do another plain row, and
decrease as in square netting. Must be washed like the last.
Honey-Comb Netting.Begin with an
even number of stitches.
1st Bow.Miss the first, net the next.
Draw the first through it, and net. Re-
peat to the end.
86 GRECIAN NETTING LONG-TWIST-STITCH.
2d and Uh Hows.Plain rows.
3c? How.Net the first. Then work like the first row to
the end, when you will have an odd stitch, which net.
Repeat these four rows. Some people use, for the plain
row, a mesh five sizes larger than the other. It makes a
more open stitch.
Round Netting.Like plain netting,
but that after passing the needle through
the loop of thread you draw it out, and by
another movement, insert it downwards,
and towards you, in the stitch to be
worked. Draw it up like an ordinary stitch. It contracts
very much, for which allowance of nearly a fourth must
be made, if you desire to work in round netting any article
for which the directions are in common netting.
Grecian Netting.Take two meshes,
one being seven sizes larger than the
other. Do a plain row with the large
mesh. Now take the small, and begin the
stitch as usual, but when putting the nee-
dle in the loop as usual, take up, also, the
second, which draw through the first. Through this again
draw the first and finish it.
The 2d Row forms a very small loop, at the side, which
net as usual. Repeat to the end.
Sd How.Plain, with large mesh.
4th Hoic.Small mesh. Do one plain stitch
;
then the
pattern, like the second row, and end with a plain stitch.
Long-twist-stitch.--Do alternately three rows of round
FEENCH-GEOUND
AND SrOTTED NETTING.
87
netting, with a small mesh, and a plain row, with a mesh
double the size.
Feench-geound Netting.Have an even
number of stitches.
1st Mow.One stitch of plain netting
;
one with the thread twice round the nee-
dle (usually called a double-stitch, and
always treated as one in the following row).
Repeat these two.
2d Mow.Plain netting, one stitch being long, and the
next short.
3c? Moid.Make a double-stitch and draw the needle
entirely from under the mesh ; insert it in the right-hand
hole of the last roic but one, which is part of the line of holes
before those last made. Take up the first stitch of the last
row, and draw it through that of the lower row ; net it.
The second loop of the last row will also be drawn partly
through. Net this, which is a very small stitch, in the ordi-
nary way. Repeat these two stitches throughout. The
next row is like the second
;
the fifth like the third, except
that a plain stitch is done at the beginning and end of the
row.
7th Mow.Short stitches are not netted in the following
row.
Spotted Netting.Do a stitch on your
foimdation with the thread twice round
the mesh
;
then two stitches with it only
once round the mesh. Repeat these
three stitches in working backwards and
forwards. After the foundation row, all
three stitches must be worked on one loop. This is one
of the designs which makes so pretty a tidy, without the
trouble of darning a pattern on it.
88 DIAMOND AND LAEGE DIAMOND NETTING.
Diamond Netting.

1st How.

1 plain
stitch, 1 double one (with the thread twice
round the mesh), alternately.
2d How.In the preceding row, the
stitches are alternately short and long
;
this
row is in plain netting, but every alternate
loop is worked not close to the mesh, but
so as to make the ends even.
3d How.

1 double-stitch, 1 plain-stitch, alternately.

4th How.

1 long-stitch, 1 plain one, alternately.

Large Diamond Netting.The number
of stitches required for this pattern is
6,
and one over.
1st How.

1 double, 5 plain, repeat to

the end, which is a double-stitch.
2d How.

1 plain netting, 1 long, draw

out the mesh ; 4 more plain netting, draw
out the mesh.
3d How.

1 plain, 1 long-stitch double, 3 plain double,

1 plain.
4th How.

2 plain, 1 long double, 2 plain double, 1 plain.

5th How.

2 plain, 1 long double, 1 plain double, 2 plain.

6th How.

3 plain, 1 long, 2 plain.

1th How.

3 plain, 1 double, 2 plain.

8th How.

3 plain double, 1 plain, 1 long double, 1 plain.

9th How.

2 plain double, 2 plain, 1 long double, 1 plain.

10th How.

2 plain double, 3 plain, 1 long double.

11th How.

1 plain double, 4 plain, 1 long double.

12th How.

1 long, 5 plain.
A counterpane done in Evans' Boar's Head Cotton,
No. 2,
in this pattern, and brimmed simply with a fringe,
would make an elegant finish to a bed, over a bright colored
comfortable.
SPOTTED DIAMOND AND LEAF-NETTING. 89
Spotted Diamond Netting.

This is worked with two meshes,

one being half the size of the
other. The spot is made by-
working a plain-stitch in the same
loop as the last, with the small
mesh. Four stitches are required
for each pattern, and an extra
one in the entire length.
1st How.

1 double, 2 plain with spot, 1 plain.

2d JRow.

1 plain, 1 long double, 1 plain with spot, 1 plain

double.
3d How.

1 plain, 1 long double, 1 plain double, 1

plain.
4th How.

1 plain, 1 plain with spot, 1 plain, 1 long.

5th How.

1 plain with spot, 1 plain, 1 double, 1 plain

with spot.
Qth How.

1 plain with spot, 1 plain double, 1 plain, 1 long

double.
7th Hoic.

2 plain, 1 long, 1 plain double.

8th How.

1 plain, 1 plain with spot, 1 plain, 1 long.

Leaf Netting.Each pattern requires
five stitches, and four extra in the length
;
two at each edge.
1st Hoic.

3 plain, 5 plain all in one

loop, 5 plain in next.
2d Hoic.Take on your needle, at
once, the 9 extra loops made, and work them as one ; 4
plain.
3d How.Plain.
4th How.

2 plain, increase 4 in each of the next two

loops, 1 plain.
5th Hoic.

1 plain, 9 together as one, 3 plain.

Qth How.Plain.
90 NETTING WITH BEADS DARNED NETTING.
This description does not include the extra stitches at the
ends, which are always in plain netting.
Double-stitch.Pass the thread twice round the mesh,
instead of once, thus making a long-stitch.
Long-stitch.Used when some of the stitches hi the pre-
ceding row have been double-stitches. To work so that the
loops of this row shall be even, the knot must not be drawn
close to the mesh, in working on the single-stitches of the
previous row. These stitches are termed ^on^-stitches.
Netting with Beads.Instead of a netting needle, use
an ordinary darner, of such a size that the beads can pass
over it. Thread as many as you wish to put on one stitch,
then net it as usual. Thread on more beads, and do the next.
Darned Netting is simply a piece of square or common
netting, with a pattern in it darned in knitting cotton. As
a rule, whatever the No. of the Boar's Head Cotton, with
which the ground is done, the same number, in Evans' Knit-
ting Cotton, will be proper for darning. It is done by work-
ing backwards and forwards until the hole is filled in, the
cotton being always carried through as many holes as have to
b e filled up in one line.
For square netting any square crochet pattern will do.
Sometimes, instead of simply filling in the design, you
work one in a variety of open stitches. The patterns
chosen for this purpose are almost always geometrical, or
such as can be done by counting threads. (See Plate I.,
Fig.
1.)
Flanders Lace is a variety of darned netting, in which
formerly ecclesiastical work was much done. The ground is
always square, or oblong netting. The design is marked on
point paper. It is then darned so that every square to be
filled in has four of the darning threads crossing it, two in
each direction. I believe that it is more difficult to acquire
skill in this than in any other sort of fancy-work, for you
YANDYKED SQUARE NETTING.
91
must never cross two threads at a time, and the whole must
appear woven, one thread above and the next below. I do
not think it can be taught by writing, but I will try to ex-
plain it, if possible. Begin at the right hand lower corner,
with whatever row of squares there may be to be filled up.
Run under one thread of the netting, over the next, along
the length, and back again. Now, if there be another line,
not projecting more to the right, do it the same ; but if it
comes further out to the right, you must darn upioards. If
this one square only goes beyond, you may turn the corner
and darn in the direction of the first ; otherwise, continue
darning upwards until you do come to a corner. The ac-
No. 1.
No. 2. No. 3.
companying engravings will, perhaps, aid in the description
of this work. Crests and coats of arms look beautiful done
in it ; and for churches, I have seen chalice cloths and other
things, with figures of the apostles, exquisitely wrought.
Embroidery on Netting is another sort of work, for
which see Embroidery
.
I will conclude this article with a few useful edges in
netting:
1 . Vandyked Square Netting.Begin on one stitch, and
increase at the end of every row, as for square netting, until
there are say thirteen holes up the side. Then increase in
every other row only, until there are eight holes up the new
side, including the last of the thirteen, which may be classed
with both. The next time you come to this point, leave the
last seven stitches, and turn back. Continue increasing at
92 SHELL EDGING ANOTHER SHELL.
the end of every alternate row, and making points like the
first. When you wish to close it, net two together several
times, when you would have done two in one. These Van-
dykes may afterwards be darned in a pattern.
2. Another Pointed Edge, which may be worked as a
border to curtains, or any other long article. Do eight
stitches ; turn, and on them work seven. Turn and do six.
Then,
5, 4, 3,
2. Cut off the thread closely, join it on to the
next eight stitches, and do the same. Of course, any larger
number may be taken, or any smaller, down to four; but
you end always with two.
3. Shell Edging.A flat mesh, half inch wide, and a
round one, No. 12. Do twelve stitches in one of the founda-
tions with the flat mesh ; turn and do two in each one with
the small ; then two rows of one in each one. The next shell
should either be begun so that the edges will touch, or that
one will lie half over the former. The corner shells will want
eighteen stitches as a first row.
Another Shell.Do one row all round the article with
the same mesh with which it was worked. A second, and
ANOTHER LACE AND EDGING. 93
even a third row may be done in the same way. Now take
a flat mesh, which will make stitches of double the size. Do
twelve in one, miss three, twelve in next, and so on. Take
a mesh half the size of the smallest and do a stitch on every
stitch, and when you come to the long thread, passing across
the three missed stitches, draw it through the middle one
and do a stitch on it. In the last row, with the fine mesh,
do a stitch on every stitch. Three meshes required.
5. A small neat shell edging for mitts and other articles,
may be done exactly like the last, but with eight long stitches
in one only.
6. Another Lace.A fine mesh, say No. 14,
and a flat
one half an inch wide. With double silk and the flat mesh,
do three stitches in one and miss the next. With the fine,
do a stitch on the first double stitch, but the other two
double loops treat as
four
stitches. In the next row do a
stitch on every stitch ; but in the next, miss the one over the
double, so that you do four over five ; in the next, three on
four ; in the next, two on three, there being, of course, a long
thread between. Conclude by taking some of the silk four
times doubled and working one stitch between every two of
last row, with a somewhat coarser mesh.
7. Another Edging.One broad mesh and a round one,
half the size required. Do two or three rows plain, with the
fine mesh. Then take the flat one ; do a plain row. Then
the fine one. Draw the second through the first, and then
the first through it, netting it in just the same direction as if
it had been worked plainly. Then net the second. Repeat
these two throughout the round or row, and add one or two
plain rows.
Observe, that in doing any one of these edgings, if you are
working round anything, as an antimacassar, you must in-
crease sufficiently at each corner in the
first
row for the outer
edge to lie flat, it being frequently impossible to increase
afterwards without spoiling the pattern.
94 OKXE CftOCHET AXD KNITTING.
orn crochet and knitting.
Oexe Balls, similar to those used for fluted embroidery,
are also made for knitting and crochet, and the designs are,
if possible, even more beautiful. The knitting is done in-
variably in moss-stitch, with No. 12 wooden needles. The
crochet is worked backwards and forwards, in single crochet,
with the hook inserted under both sides of the chain part of
the previous row. The worker is guided to the end of the
row by a knot, as in fluted embroidery. The casting on of
the knitting and the foundation chain of the crochet, must be
done with four-thread Berlin wool, matching the ground of
the work in color ; and to both it is very advisable to add
one or two rounds of double or treble crochet, in suitable
colors, with four-thread Berlin. I have observed that gold
color or maize, for the inner round, with, perhaps, dark green
or claret for an outer one, always looks rich. In the outer
round the orne fringe is crocheted, if it is intended to trim
the article with it. But crochet, being solid, will bear a
fringe of O. P. beads.
Both these kinds of work are beautiful for throwing over
lounges and sofas, or for covering fancy tables. The colors
are exquisite and brighten with wear. The designs are most
beautiful. I have before me a small table-cover, the design
of which is a group of the most natural water-lilies imagin-
able, with a very rich border of shells. It is knitted. No. 4
knitting ball is also beautiful. No. 1 crochet ball makes a
charming table-cover, the ground being white, with a wreath
of roses. It would be a most appropriate gift for a bride.
Every ball of wool is accompanied by an engraving and full
instructions. I can hardly sufficiently commend this inven-
tion, which has so rich an effect with so little pains or cost,
and makes any room look bright and handsome.
PATCHWORK.
95
PATCHWORK.
This is a favorite amusement with many ladies, as by it
they convert useless bits of silk, velvet, or satin, into really
handsome articles of decoration. Of the patchwork with
calico, I have nothing to say. Valueless indeed must be the
time of that person who can find no better use for it than
to make ugly counterpanes and quilts of pieces of cotton.
Emphatically is the proverb true of cotton patchwork, Le
jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle ! It is not worth either candle
or gas light.
But scraps of the more expensive materials I have
named, will really, with a little taste and management, make
very handsome cushions, chair covers, and ottomans.
The first care is to select a design; and it should be
chosen with reference to your collection of scraps. If, for
instance, you have an abundance of two leading colors, you
may be able to work a pattern which would be impracti-
cable had you only chance bits of a number of tints. Geo-
metrical designs are always selected. Octagons, hexagons,
cubes, stars, diamonds, triangles. If you are going to do
a large piece of work, it is well worth procuring a die for
stamping out a pattern of each of the sections, as you thus
attain an accuracy hardly otherwise procurable. With this
you stamp out a number of pieces of stout writing paper
;
and then cover one side of each with the material, turning
over the edges, and tacking them round. They are sewed
together, on the wrong side, in their proper places, and the
papers are generally, but not always, afterwards withdrawn.
The principal care needed is to make the colors combine
well. I give two patterns for Patchwork, merely by way
of illustration.
96
PATCHWORK.
No. 1.
No. 1 has three different shapes only, forming a succession
of cubes, the top and two sides only being visible. If the
top were made always of some dark color, and the two
sides of two distinct shades of a lighter, the effect would be
very good and extremely rich. For suitable combinations
of color consult the article on Coloring.
Pattern No. 2 consists of two different stars of light
points, with a cross between. One star has simply sixteen
pieces, all radiating from the centre, and so arranged that
two shades of the same color should be used alternately for
them. The centre of the other star is made in the same
way, surrounded by eight diamonds, and further extended
by a broad mitred band or ribbon, to form points. This makes
the star of the same size as the simpler one, which may, if
preferred, be substituted for it.
A simple hexagon makes a very pretty design for patch-
work, there being no possible difficulty in fitting the various
pieces
;
it has the advantage of requiring only one stamp.
Narrow velvet ribbons may often be introduced, with
great advantage, in patchwork, to throw up the colors. If,
for instance, the outer band of the alternate stars in design
No.
2,
be made of black velvet ribbon, laid on, and merely
folded at the angles, it will so relieve the other colors that
PATCHWOEK. 97
No. 2.
yon may use, with propriety and effect, much brighter colors
than would otherwise be admissible.
Great care is required to make every point and angle
sufficiently well. This must be done in tacking on the
paper shapes, as well as, afterwards, in sewing the pieces
together.
98 POINT-LACE.
POINT LACE.
Of all the various kinds of lace, that known as Point is
considered the most valuable. It isor I should rather say
icasmade entirely by the needle
;
and was principally the
work of nuns of the tenth to the sixteenth century. By the
most tedious toil and elaborate designs, they produced, after
perhaps spending a life-time on it, a marvellous piece of lace
for the dress of a priest, an altar cloth, or something else
connected with the ceremonies of the Roman church, valu-
able and beautiful enough to be in harmony with all its
other magnificent decorations. Sometimes, also, this lace
was adapted to secular purposes ; designed as a gift which
would insure the favorable consideration of some mighty
sovereignor to be purchased at a sum which would
effectually increase the revenues of the convent. Of course,
the very wealthiest only could venture to possess such
expensive articles of dress, which descended through the
various generations of a family, heir-looms, as much prized
as the family diamonds, and considered, perhaps, as an even
more exclusive proof of an ancient lineage. Since the
French Revolution, however, there has been a greater
abundance of this valuable lace

et pour cause. When

churches, convents, and monasteries were ravaged during
the Reign of Terror, and the priceless lace fell iato the
hands of a rabble, who might indeed know something
of the approximate value of gold and silver, but could not
estimate the equally costly fabrics which they found among
the ecclesiastical stores, it was sold, for really nominal sums,
to the Jewish and other receivers of such ill-gotten goods, and
by them conveyed to England, and other countries, where a
ready sale for it was anticipated, notwithstanding the marks
SPANISH EOSE AND ITALIAN POINT. 99
left on it of the brutal and ignorant hands through which it
had passed. And even now, the trade in Old Point is
chiefly among the Jews.
But had there been ten times as much brought to light as
was actually discovered, there would not have been sufficient
to materially lessen its value, so vast is the labor that is re-
quired for even a very small specimen of the choicest sort,
known technically as Spanish Rose Point.
Spanish Rose Point was the production, chiefly, of the
Spanish convents. It is very close, elaborate and massive,
the edges of the scrolls and ornaments being raised very
much, whence the lace has its name. I have succeeded in so
closely imitating this lace, that it is hardly possible to tell
the difference between that made three years, and the work
of three centuries ago. I calculate, however, that the small
collar worked as a specimen for the French Exhibition of
1855, cost me quite
$50, or 10.
Italian Point is made with a flat linen braid, elsewhere
described. (See Braids.) I was led to make this braid by
a desire to repair a very beautiful robe, out of which some
rats had apparently been making more than one luxurious
meal. I was told it was impossible to do it; and with
womanly perversity chose to prove that there was nothing
impossible hi it. To unpick a little and procure a morsel of
the braid was easy, and could not make the robe any worse
than it already was. The thread had to be made to resemble
it
;
then I was obliged to learn pillow lace-work, to imitate
the braid. I succeeded in doing this ; and by setting some
lacemakcrs to work, and showing them how, obtained braid
enough to repair the dress. The rest was easy ; and when I
returned it to Alton Towers (the seat of the great Catholic
Earl of Shrewsbury), no one could have told where the new
parts were. This work is, however, not nearly so tedious as
Spanish
Point, the braid taking up a considerable space in
100 MODERN POINT.
each pattern, while the lightest stitches only are employed
in filling in the flowers and leaves.
There is another variety of Italian Point also ; of this the
ground is fine linen, which forms the foundation, the threads
being drawn out for all the open parts, and left only in those
which form the straight lines. When all the threads are
drawn out which the design requires, the linen, now very
little more than a collection of loose, ragged threads, is tacked
in proper form on parchment, or toile ciree. The threads are
then woven into bars, thus : suppose six parallel threads are
left close together, for the purpose of being formed into a
bar. You take a needle, threaded with Mecklenburg, and
weave backwards and forwards on these six, always taking
up three on your needle, until the length forms one solid,
braid-like bar.
These being all done in the same way, you fill in the pat-
tern with wheels, foundation, edging, etc., like any other
point lace, but that you use Mecklenburg threads only, no
cottons, in this sort of lace, which was usually employed for
borders of altar-cloths and other sacerdotal purposes.
This lace belongs almost exclusively to the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries. The designs worked in it were some-
times strangely grotesque. I have seen specimens with
figures of men and animals worked with inimitable accuracy;
and I once possessed a set of lappets, each medallion of which
was a scene from JEsop's Fables, worked so beautifully and
minutely that no painting could have given a more accurate
idea of the subjects. As may be expected, perfect speci-
mens of this sort of lace are very rare, and proportionably
valuable.
Modern Point has outlines of cotton braid, filled in with
the
lighter stitches. It is very pretty, and even handsome;
but
still not to compare with the other kinds of point. It is
sometimes
called Lacet-icorlc.
THE MATERIALS AND OUTLINES 101
There is one advantage Point Lace has over every other
sort of work : its results are valuable, while the cost of ma-
terial is a mere trifle. In this respect it forms a great con-
trast to many other kinds of fancy work, in which the finished
article is but little more valuable than the mere material. It
has another also. Perhaps not very many ladies would care
to work a collar that would occupy them six months, working
two or three hours a day (although it must be remembered
that Point Lace is never old-fashioned, and that it never
wears out) ; but all are glad to be able to repair a costly col-
lar, or insert new and beautiful fancy stitches, when the
original have worn out ; or to modernize expensive lace or
muslin-work; and for all these purposes, the Point Lace
stitches will be found most useful, and, indeed, essential.
The Materials.Besides the braid above mentioned, are
a selection of the cottons of Messrs. W. Evans & Co., including
Mecklenburg Nos.
1, 7, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160; Boar's Head
Crochet Cotton, Nos. 40, 50; 70, 90, 100, 120, 150; and Mo-
ravian, No. 70. Of course, all these sorts are not needed for
one article ; but the set will suffice for any design ever given
in Point Lace ; and, as I have mentioned elsewhere. (See
Cottons.) I have never found any cottons but those of
Messrs. W. Evans & Co., with which I could successfully
imitate the old Point. Besides the braid and cottons, you
want a pattern. In olden times these were drawn on parch-
ment
;
but I have found paper answer perfectly well, if lined
with calico, or, for antique Point, with alpaca. The design
is drawn on paper, colored on one side and white on the
other. After being inked, the outlines are cut out, and the
paper is mounted on calico, which is pasted on it, the edge
being turned over to protect the paper from being torn.
The Outlines.Italian braid, or the only substitute now
procurable, linen or cotton braid (which must be closely
woven), requires to be run on at both edges, like broad silk
102 EETJSSELS AND SOEEEXTO EDGE.
braid. The article on Beaidixg describes the process for
either broad or narrow braiding; but as this has to be
removed from the foundation, which is not the case with any-
other kind of braid-work, the ends, instead of being drawn
through to the other side, must be neatly turned under and
securely fastened together.
In Spanish Rose Point, the outlines are made of a single
thread only; No.
1, 7,
or 12,
Mecklenburg, is used. It is
sewed down along the outline with another fine thread, in
stitches taken across it, and close enough to hold it firmly
down. Joins are made by laying the two ends side by side
and sewing them down together. Sometimes the pattern for
Spanish point is drawn on toile dree.
The flowers, and other parts of the pattern, are filled in
with what are termed Stitches
;
the ground is made in Baes
;
the outer lines finished with Edges. I may remark that button-
hole-stitch is the foundation of almost all the Point stitches.
Brussels Ed,ge is the simplest stitch,
being merely common buttonhole, worked
at regular intervals, without drawing the
thread tightly. Do about eight to the inch.
Long Beussels has the needle put once
round the thread, to give it a twist, and
make it stand out farther from the foundation.
No. 2. No. 8.
Sorrento Edge (Xo. 1).Do a loose buttonhole-stitch,
and on this loop, another, which draw tightly. Repeat this
at half the distance. Work these two in succession.
LONG BRUSSELS.
103
Venetian Edging (No. 2).Do a Brussels-stitch, and on it
four tight stitches. They ought not, however, to be drawn
too tightly.
Little Venetian (No. 3).A Brussels-stitch, and one
tight one on it, worked at equal distances.
To fasten the Thread.The thread
must be firmly and neatly fastened to the
braid, before you begin, no knots being per-
missible in Point Lace. Run a few stitches
on the braid, and then secure it, at the point
where you wish to begin, by a tight button-
hole-stitch, on the edge of the braid. In fastening off do
the same, two or three buttonhole-stitches being needed.
LACES.
Brussels.A succession of rows of Brussels edge, one
worked on another. The only troublesome part is the last
row, when it has to be joined to the braid. Draw your
needle through the stitch of last row, and then take one
through the braid, letting the thread cross over the loop
just made, and inserting the needle in the braid from be-
neath.
No.l. No. 2.
Long Brussels (No. 1).Like Long Brussels edging,
some times worked over a thread.
104 VEXETIAX, S0EEEXT0 AXD EX&LISH LACE.
Lixed, ok Filled Beessels (No. 2.) Take a bar of
thread across from right to left,
half
the depth that the
line of Brussels should be. "Work back, from left to right
in Brussels, but over this bar. The needle should slip under
the bar before inserting in the braid, and go over it in draw-
ins: it out.
Xo. 1. No. 2. No. 8.
Venetian Lace (Xo.
1)
has always the line from left to
ricjht in Venetian edging, and from right to left in Brussels.
This is done because Venetian can only be worked in one di-
rection, and the alternate row of Brussels saves the fastening
on and off so frequently.
Soeeexto Lace, No.
2,
can only be worked from left to
right. It consists of successive rows of Sorrento edging,
the short stitches of one line being worked on the long of
the last.
Exglish Lace (No. 3).Make a succession of twisted
parallel lines, either diagonally or horizontally, in the space
to be filled. They are done thus : Fasten on the thread,
and carry it across the space to be filled ; secure it, by a
buttonhole-bar, to the opposite braid ; carry it back again,
twisting the two threads together, by passing the needle
under the one already made, until they form one. Fasten
where it began, and run a little way on the braid to the
place where the next bar should start. Continue thus, until
all the bars in one direction are done. Now take the first
thread in a precisely contrary direction, passing the needle
OPEN ENGLISH LACE ENGLISH EOSETTES. 105
underall the bars. Fasten to the braid at the opposite side
;
twist back to the first place where they cross, when pass the
needle under the single thread, on the opposite side, then
under again on the twisted side of the new bar
;
work thus
round the cross, always under the new bar and over the
other, until it is large enough. Twist on the single thread
until you come to the next cross, when work another spot
and so on, until the space is filled.
Open English Lace.Worked in the
same manner, on double the number of
threads. The slanting lines only are dou-
ble
;
and there being eight threads at every
cross, instead of four, you take the needle
under one, and over the next (but always
under the new bar), in making the spot. It is necessary to
be very careful about distances in this pattern, otherwise
the threads will not cross at the places proper for the
spots.
English Rosettes are sometimes called
spider's webs. Indeed they greatly resem-
ble them. They are worked on
3,
4 or 5
twisted bars, making
6,
8 or 10 lines radia-
ting from the centre, according to the shape
of the space to be filled. Do them like
those of English lace, the single line of every new bar going
under the others, and over them in twisting back, so that all
are caught together in working. When you have . done
every line but the last, and that so as to have twisted to the
middle, take a buttonhole-stitch across all the lines, to hold
them together. Xow pass your needle under one line; then
again under it and the next ; under the last (so that the
thread goes round it). Weave all round in this manner,
until the spot is as large as you desire, when you finish
twisting the hall" bar, and fasten off.
106 CORDOVAN, VALENCIENNES AND FOUNDATION LACE.
Heneiquez Lace.This is always done
with extremely fine cotton. Make a twisted
bar, like the first for English lace. Do a
single line for another, about the twelfth of
an inch off. Twist back on it, a little icay,
then, across the twisted bar and the single
one, darn a spot of about the eighth of an inch. Twist
again as much, up the single bar ; and do another spot.
Work up these two bars thus ; then another pair, at a little
distance
;
and so on through the space, always in one direc-
tion. Cross them in the opposite, having care that the pair
of threads should come where the bars of the other are
separate. The spots must come in the spaces between.
Always make the single thread come under the bars already
done; and in twisting back, take a stitch between every
pair, which serves to keep them separate.
No. 1. No. 2.
Coedovan Lace (No. 1).Is similar to the preceding,
but the lines are worked in threes, the spots being worked
across them.
Valenciennes Lace is rarely used, being simply close
fine darning.
The following stitches arc all varieties of buttonhole.
Foundation Lace (N"o. 2).This is lined buttonhole, or
filled Brussels; but the stitches are taken as close to each
other as they can possibly lay evenly. In successive rows,
one stitch is taken between ttoo, of the previous. The fol-
lowing are in
lined Brussels.
ANTWERP AND OPEN ANTWERP LACE. 107
No. 1. No. 2. No. 3.
By missing the space of one stitch, at certain regular in-
tervals, Close and Open Diamond are made. The former
(Xo.
1)
has
four,
the latter (Xo.
2)
has nine holes.
Antwerp Lace (Xo. 3.)The holes are so arranged as to
form a sucession of diamonds.
1st Row.Do 4 stitches, leave the space of
4
; do 11 leave
the space of 4.
Id Roic.Miss the 4 worked, do 4 on the loop, 10 over
11, and 4 on the next loop.
3d How.Like 1st ; with 11 on the centre 12 of the 18.
4th Row.

7 stitches, miss the space of 4,

4 over the cen-
tre of 11
;
miss the space of 4
;
do 4 on the loopthis
being succeeded by
7,
makes 11.
5 th Row.

11 stitches, miss the space over 4. 7 stitches.

6th Row.Like 4th. This completes a diamond.
Open Antwerp is worked backwards and
forwards, and not over a thread. It also has
six rows.
1st Row.

8 close stitches. Leave a loose

loop over the space of 5. Endeavor to end
the row with 8.
2c? Row.

5 close over the 6 centre of 8

;
2 on centre of
loop. Loops, of course, between.
3d Row.

2 close on centre 3 of 5
; 5,
namely 1 on
2,
and
2 each side of it.
4th Row.Begin with 2 stitches on the loop before the
5
;
4 on the
5,
and 2 beyond them
;
miss the space of the 2 close
stitches.
108 ESC AT.TE R-STITCH CADIZ LACE.
5th Raw.

5 on centre 6 of
8,
and 2 on the loop.
Gth Moic.

2 on centre of 5
;
5 over 2 as before.
Observe, that to give due effect to this stitch each line must
be begun a little more in advance of the last than is usual
with these stitches. This is done by running the needle a
little more forward in the braid or other foundation.
No.L No. 2. No 3.
Spotted Lace (So. 1).Leaving the space of
3,
do 2 close
stitches;
X
miss the space of
5,
and do 2 more.
X repeat
between the crosses only. In all the following rows, do 2
on the centre of every loop.
Venetian Spotted Lace (Xo. 2).A space is filled in with
Venetian bars (see Hars), worked across each other. Then,
in each space, 4 English lace spots are worked.
Escauep-stitcti (So.
8),
is so called because the pattern
resembles the steps of stairs. Do 9 close-stitches ; miss the
space of 3. In the next row, do 3 on the loop, and 6 beyond;
making a loop over the last 3 of every 9 stitches. Do
every row the same.
Nc. 4.
No. 5.
No. C.
Cadiz Lacz (So. 4).In the first row, do 6 close stitches,
FAX, BARCELONA, FLORENTINE AND ROHAN LACE. 109
miss the space of 2
;
do 2
;
miss the space of 2. In the next,
do 2 on each loop, making thus a short loop over the
2,
and a long one over the 6. Work these two rows alternately.
Fax Lace (Xo. 5).

1st Jtoic.Do 6 stitches, and miss the

space of 6.
2(7 lioic.Do 5 stitches on
6,
and miss the same space as
before.
3(7 How.Do 6 stitches on the bar ; and, missing the
stitches, make a loop over them.
4th EoicLike 2(7.
Barcelona Lace (Xo. 6).Do 1 row of Sorrento edging;
work back on it, by making 4 stitches on the long space, and
missing the short one.
Florentine Lace.

9 close-stitches, miss
the space of 4. Repeat this, and it will form
a foundation.
1st Hoic.Working back, 4 stitches on
the loop, miss the 9 stitches.
2(7 Roto.

9 on loop, miss the 4.

3c7 Boic.

4 on loop, 4 more on the centre of 9.

4th JRoic.

3 stitches on the small loop, 3 more over

4,
and
3 on the next loop, leaving a loop over the 4.
\\ 'man Lace.

1st I2oic.Do 5 stitches

together, and leave the space of 4.
2c7 Bow.

4 on the loop, and 4 on the 5.

:
' 7
Boic.Leave a loop over the centre
3 of 5 in the 1st row
;
do 5.
4th Mow.

4 on 5
;
4 more on the loop.
5th Boic.Like 3d
;
only that the loop is to come over
the centre of the 5 of the 3d row, so that the holes will not
lace.
In repeating this pattern,
omit the 1st row, which was
merelv a fonndati
'
110 MECHLIN WHEELSEEESWIXG LACE.
Mechlix "Wheels.Do lines of button-
hole (Venetian) bars, in one direction, dis-
tant about the third of an inch from each
other. Cross them with other bars, at the
same spaces, in closing which, at every cross,
you will work a wheel, thus : cover the
thread with buttonhole, a little beyond one cross ; then carry
the thread round by slipping the needle through every bar,
always at equal distance from the centre. To secure the
round in its place, you may pin it down with a needle.
Cover it with buttonhole-stitch, making, if you please, Ra-
leigh dots at intervals.
Bee's-wing Lace.This must always be
worked with 150 Evans' Boar's Head Cot-
ton. It is particularly adapted for filling up
triangular spaces. Begin across a corner,
with a loose bar. Twist back to the centre,
on which do 4 buttonhole-stitches. Finish
twisting.
X
Run up the side of the braid even with the
buttonhole-stitches. Make another loose loop, and do 4 but-
tonhole on the 4. Another loose loop, and fasten to the
opposite side of the braid. Twist back half the last loop,
and do 4 stitches; twist the rest. Take a double bar
across from the base of one loop to that of the other,
across the
first four
buttonholes ; work on it in Vene-
tian dots ; twist back half the next loop ; make 4 but-
ton hole-stitches on the centre ; twist back the rest.
X
make another set of loops in the same Avay, repeating be-
tween the crosses. Each little pattern, of double button-
holes, and the dotted bar beyond it makes something like a
bee's-wing. Each line will, of course, have an extra bee's-
wing in it.
VENETIAN BAES. Ill
Two other varieties of spotted lace may be
employed advantageously in filling in flowers.
In the first do first a row of lined long Brus-
sels, and the next row, carrying a bar across,
do 4 foundation-stitches in every stitch. Re-
peat these alternately. Another may be
made thus : do 4 close long Brussels, miss the space of 4
alternately.
2d Roic.

4 close long Brussels on loop, miss the space

of 4.
3d Row.Take your thread backwards and forwards,
across the space to be worked, making a bar of 5 or 6 threads,
instead of a single one. Work over this, in close long Brus-
sels, precisely as if it were a single thread, 4 stitches on
every loop.
Do these last two rows alternately. Both these stitches
must be done in Evans' Boar's Head, 150.
BARS.
I have already mentioned that Bars form the ground of
all varieties of point lace. They are
Venetian
Bass, of
1, 2,
or perhaps 3
threads, taken close together, and covered
with
buttonhole-stitch.
Sometimes they have
branches. When this is the case, cover the
main bar with buttonhole as far as the first
branch
;
make that, always managing so as
to finish the buttonhole again at the main line, which
continue. Anv number of branches mav thus be worked.
112 POINT D'ALENCON, ENGLISH AND EALEIGH BAES.
iiMDinfflit(iMnii*i
No. 1. No. 2. No. 8.
Edged Venetian Baes (No.
1)
have a line of Brussels or
other edge worked on one or both sides.
Dotted Venetian Baes (No. 2).While working the
ordinary bar, hold out every sixth stitch a little way, with
another needle, and work two or three buttonhole-stitches
on the loop. Then continue the bar.
Soeeento Baes (!STo.
3)
are merely closely twisted threads.
Soeeexto-edge Baes are lines of thread on which Sor-
rento edging is worked, just as it would be on braid.
Point-d'Alenc;on Baes are merely the
common herringbone-stitch, the threads be-
nig twisted once or oftener, according to
eth depth of the space to be filled.
English Baes are always worked between
two lines of edges, and with very fine cotton.
Take three or four closely twisted bars be-
tween two opposite stitches, all of them on
one of each edge-stitch. Miss the next, and
do the same number on the following bar.
Raleigh Baes are the most complicated ot
all, and may have even some historic interest,
from my having copied them from a collar
once worn by the great Sir "Walter Raleigh,
and which remains an heirloom among the
descendants of his family. It is very rich and
beautiful in effect, and invariably forms
the ground of tlie
most beautiful lace. Begin as for Venetian, and aft or every
POINT EDGE.
113
eighth or tenth stitch, instead of making the usual loop, slip
it under the bar and bring it up on the right hand of the
loop, which, when you have made it about an inch and a half
long, you will hold down with the thumb of the left hand
;
pass the needle six times round the right-hand side thread
of the loop, and generally draw it up to form a knot, thick
on one side, and with a single thread on the other. Slip the
needle through it, above the bar ; and again work the pro-
per number of bar stitches.
Point Edge.This edge is characteristic
of Old Point, and so well recognized as be-
longing to it only, that when I showed some
I had "made to one of the first dealers in Lon-
don, she replied: "I suppose, madam, you
are not three hundred years old ; but I did
not think any had been made within that time." It is always
worked on an outline thread, which is afterwards to be
covered with buttonhole stitch. Generally, the scallop is
formed of six loopsthree at the base, two on three, and one
on two ; but sometimes four, sometimes two only, are taken
as the base
;
and there are many other variations, though the
mode of working is always, in principle, the same. Tack
down on your pattern a thread of Moravian, in the form you
intend to have them. (See engraving.) Do this by making
first the three loops ; then carrying the thread back for two,
and again for the one. Carry the thread down the side, and
a little way along the foundation bar (for the points ought
not to touch), and then make the next set. To cover them,
begin with the point. Fasten on the thread to the Moravian,
and cover the loop with buttonhole, with Raleigh dots at
intervals. Run the thread in the Moravian to the base of
the two ; do them the same ; and finally the three. This
edge is always worked with Mechlenburg thread, in one of
114 GROUNDING BARS VEININGS.
the fine numbers. The same may be said of Raleigh Bars,
Sorrento Edge Bars, and all the varieties of Venetian.
Grounding Bars are small circles, loops,
scallops, and other fanciful forms, always
worked in Raleigh bar-stitch, and on those
bars. If repairing lace, you must imitate the
others in the same piece ; if working a new
design, the form ofsuch bars is usually worked
on the engraving or pattern.
I have spoken of the heavy raised work characteristic of
Spanish Rose Point. It is done by tacking down on the
pattern, in the requisite form, a number of lengths of Mora-
vian, tapering them towards the extremities, if the usual
semicircular form be in the pattern. Fourteen to twenty
threads will not be too many for the thickest part. You
then work them on the edge of the flower or scroll, in button-
hole-stitch, your needle passing not through, but under the
whole of the threads, thus forming them into one solid mass.
The edge is finished either with Raleigh dots, a single or
double fine of loops, or fine point edge. The outlines of the
scrolls and designs of Spanish Point, and especially the outer
edge of the collar, have frequently a double line of Moravian
tacked down to give it strength and thickness.
Veinings.It is often necessary to vein leaves, stems, etc.,
when these are worked in foundation stitch. Where the
vein is to occur, miss every alternate stitch ; and be careful
P0TICH0MA2OE.
115
in taking the next row of stitches to take up the thread which
would otherwise be loose across the last. Of course, it does
not follow that veinings are made in a straight line. Part
may be made on one line, which is finished in close founda-
tion-stitch
;
the open-work being resumed in the next at the
2>oint where left off in the former ; and so on.
To remove a completed piece of point work from the paper,
cut all the threads at the back, and then, the work being
loose, pick out all the threads.
For hints on modernizing Old Point, see Transfer-worlc.
POTICHOMANIE.
Poti-chixo, or Poticiiomaxie, although not belonging in
any way to the art of needle-work, is so generally and de-
servedly popular, as a branch of fancy-work, that I venture
to give it a place here. It bids fair to contribute more to
the decorations of our drawing-rooms and boudoirs, at small
expense and with very little labor, than any that has made
its appearance for the last half century. Poti-chino, to which
the significant word manie has been added by our Parisian
sisters, is the art of converting very ordinary glass vases into
imitations of Etruscan, Dresden, or Chinese jars, as beautiful
as the originals, at a tenth part of the cost ; and with the
additional recommendation to the friend or sister to whom
they are given that the graceful ornaments are the results of
our own skill and taste.
Potichomanie, as it is generally called, is an art which was
brought out in Paris, and was received there with all the
extravagance of admiration characteristic of the impression-
able inhabitants. Every lady was busy cutting out sheets of
116 POTICHOMANIE.
paper, and making her fingers disagreeable with varnish and
gum-water; and we believe one-half the gentlemen were
most industriously idling over the same elegant toil; for
what an admirable excuse for lingering in a fair lady's bou-
doir is the offer to dissect for her some of the Chinese beau-
ties or Assyrian deformities which are to form the decorations
of the Poti-chino. Doubtless the employment will serve as
a subject for satire, as every other feminine occupation has
done ; but it must be admitted that it has merit which will
render it an universal favorite
;
none the less so that there is
some visible effect as the result of a morning's work, whilst
in some other fancy-works it requires the labor of weeks to
complete anything of use or ornament.
The materials for this work are glass vases ; sheets of paper,
with figures, flowers, and various other designs ; dissolved
gums; paint brushes, with very long handles; unalterable
varnish
;
prepared linseed-oil colors ; essence of turpentine.
The sheets of paper prepared for Poti-chino are colored
with various designs appropriate to the different styles of
vases. Some have figures, birds, plants, dragons, and mon-
strosities of all kinds, d la Chinoise. Another sheet of
figures of the most graceful character, in a dull red color
outlined with black, are destined for Etruscan jars. Exquisite
medallions and other subjects are intended for Sevres. Comi-
calities which seem fresh from Nineveh will enable us to imi-
tate the Assyrian style.
The candlestick of which we give an engraving, (see Plate
IV., Fig.
2,)
imitates Sevres. The medallions have exquisite
views of the noblest public buildings in Paris. The ground
is the beautiful Sevres blue, and the ornaments in gold. Glass
table-tops, done in this work, are extremely beautiful.
There
is a branch of this art called Diaphanie, especially
adapted
for windows, being an admirable imitation of stained glass.
All these have to be carefully cut out with fine scissors,
POTICHOMAXIE.
117
not leaving any part of the ground, but making every deco-
ration as clear as if it were painted.
Have a large cardboard box, with divisions for the differ-
ent classes of subjects; and sort them as you go on.
Wash the glass vases carefully, and lay out on your table
(which will be better without a cloth) all the materials which
we have enumerated, together with a small basin of clean
water and a towel for the purpose of rinsing your fingers,
and a fine cloth for your work.
Have three or four folded sheets of blotting-paper on
which to lay the designs, which must be gummed over on
the colored side, each one, as soon as it is done, being placed
in the position in which it is to remain inside the vase. Rub
your finger or the towel evenly along it, to prevent any air-
bubbles finding place between the glass and the paper. This
displacing of bubbles (which must be done by pressing the
nail along the part and so forcing them out) is sometimes the
most tedious part of the whole process. When the vase is
sufficiently covered with the design, it must be allowed to
dry, and then a coating of gum put at the back of the paper.
This being also dry, add a coating of unalterable varnish, and
with a fine cloth dipped in warm water take off every spot
of gum and varnish from the glass.
The oil-color must then be applied, either with a broad
brush, or by pouring it in and turning the vase round and
round until the color adheres to every part. When the oil-
color is too thick to run, it may be tempered with the spirits
of turpentine.
Another coat of varnish is then given, over the color, for
the purpose of enabling the vase to bear being filled with
water. Prevention being, however, considerably better than
cure, we should counsel our friends to have an inner jar of
zinc, tin, or glass, if they wish to put flowers in their vase of
Puti-chino.
118 SWISS LACE.
Such is the art, as described by the most skillful profes-
sional workers ; to whose directions we have added, without
scruple, the results of our own experience. A few further
words of counsel will not, we trust, be either found useless
or thought officious.
In every effort at Poti-chino, regard should be had to the
genre of work we are attempting to imitate
;
and this should
not only govern the selection of the form of vase, but also
the color of the ground and the general details. Thus we
should study Etruscan vases, if we would produce a correct
copy of them. We shall generally find the ground either
black or a sort of red color. Chinese vases, again, have a
distinguishing ground ; Sevres, the beautiful blue which bears
its name. Some of the most delicate and graceful French
porcelain was a running stone-and-gold design on a pink
ground. All these combinations must be studied if we would
produce any imitation-china worthy of the name ; and when
a day is to be spent in Poti-chino, the previous one should be
devoted to the examination of the originals in any collection
at command.
SWISS LACE.
This term is applied to every article of needle-work in which
muslin or cambric forms the design, and net the ground-work.
Probably it is so called because the most beautiful specimens
of this species of fancy-work come from Switzerland. Of
course, the one material is laid or applied over the other
;
hence it is sometimes termed muslin applique. The design
is marked on the muslin, which is then laid over the net, and,
in
any but small pieces, both are put in a frame. They are
worked m
Tambour-stitch. Handkerchiefs, collars, sleeves,
TAMBOUE-WORK. 119
and all fine articles are, however, done in the hand. The two
materials being run together, are tacked on toile ciree. The
outlines are then traced in fine embroidery cotton, say No.
36,
except for French cambric, which must have a still finer
cotton. The outlines are then sewed closely over, a thread
of No. 20, 24,
or 36,
Evans' Boar's Head being held in.
This holding in a thread, in sewing over outlines, wonder-
fully improves them, both in appearance and durability. The
outer edges of collars, etc., are buttpnholed over. A double
line of tracing, one thread quite close to the other, should be
previously done, and the buttonhole-stitches be small and of
the same length. Sometimes the outlines of the design are
worked in a sort of eyelet-hole-stitch, thus : the pattern, if
intended to be so worked, will have a double line of outlines,
one about the eighth of an inch within the other. Trace
both these. Take a very coarse sewing needle (No. 3 or
4)
and 150 Evans' Boar's Head Cotton; make a knot in the
thread to fasten on, and do a row of small holes between
these two lines throughout the pattern by taking up three
or four threads on the needle and sewing them over two or
three times ; then passing the needle an equal distance, to
form the next hole. The outlines are to be sewed with a
thread in, as before, taking the stitches in the holes, to keep
them open.
French cambric, for very fine work, widow's lawn, or fine
clear book muslin on Brussels net, are the materials for this
work.
TAMBOUR-WORK.
Ta:mbour-work is embroidery done in a stitch precisely
resembling chain-stitch in crochet. The design being marked
on the material, it is placed in a frame. The needle used
120 TAMBOUEED NETTING
resembles a fine crochet hook, fastened into an ivory handle
by means of a small steel screw at the side. The thread is
held between the finger and thumb of the left hand, beneath
the work. The hook is inserted with the right, and draws
through a small loop. Keeping this on the hook, insert it
again at a short distance and draw up another, through it.
Continue thus making a succession of chain-stitches, first out-
lining each flower or leaf, and then filling it up. The needle,
in drawing up each loop, is slightly twisted, by a motion
which has the effect of retaining the thread on the hook.
The small screw ought to rest against the thumb, by which
means it will be easy to regulate the amount of movement.
To fasten off, draw the thread through on the right side, cut
it off, a few inches from the work, and take it through to the
wrong side, across the last chain to fasten it.
Tambour Applique-work is where one material is tam-
boured on another. The design is then in the upper, which
is always the heavier material, and the ground in the lower.
That part of the upper which covers the ground is afterwards
cut away. The greater part of the muslin curtains which
are so ornamental are worked in this way.
Tamboueed Netting.This is the only method of em-
broidering netting, except by the stitch. The design is
marked on fine, light-colored crape. This is stretched over
the netting; and both are put in a frame together. The
embroidering is done with silks, to imitate nature, flowers
being the favorite designs. Every part is afterwards out-
lined with gold thread, No.
0,
done also in tambour-stitch.
When the work is completed and taken out of the frame, the
crape is drawn out, thread by thread. Very beautiful purses
arc
made in this manner. Fine crochet silk is used.
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TAPISSEEIE D'AUXEEEE TAPE-WOEK. 121
TAPISSERXE D'AUXERRE.
Tapisseeie d'Attxeere is a pretty and very simple kind
of work. It is merely darning on black or white net, by
thread, in colored wools. A variety of simple patterns may
be made. I have done in this way shoes for young children,
making them up with cork soles, and binding and lining them
neatly. Also, sofa cushions, bags, and pretty, warm neck-
ribbons. The net which has diamond-shaped holes ought to
be selected.
Tapestey.(See Berli?i-icork.)
TAPE-WORK.
Tape-work is a very strong and useful trimming for
ninny articles of ladies' and children's dress; while it is light
and pretty enough to be ranked as fancy-work. Narrow
tape of the best quality is employed for this purpose ; and
you require no material except it, with a needle threaded
with suitably fine cotton. Begin with the extremity of the
tape, folding it into a point. Sew the two sides, or edges,
of the tape together, just catching, also, the edge of the tri-
angular fold. Make another point quite close to it, but in
the opposite direction ; sew that in like manner. Then one
like the first. Continue thus making a zig-zag piece of work
until you have done the required length, when make one,
two, or more rows more, and afterwards sew them together
at the point, slipping the needle through from point to
point.
Very often small pieces of tape-work are connected and
122 THE TATTING-STITCH.
formed into wheels, with a fancy muslin-stitch, perhaps a
wheel or rosette in the centre. Children's collars are often
made of a succession of these wheels, a couple of rows of the
ordinary work making the neck-piece.
TATTING.
Tatting, sometimes called Frivolite, deserves to be more
popular than it is at present ; for though it cannot be done
in such an infinite variety of patterns as knitting or crochet,
those that are made in it are, at once, strong and handsome
;
while it is so easy of execution, and requires only such sim-
ple implements, that it is particularly suitable for . elderly
people and invalids.
An ivory shuttle, and a long pin, attached to a chain, or
loop of thread and a ring, with the needleful of cotton or
silk, are all that are needed. The shuttle is filled with cot-
ton, an end being left. For some designs, this end is left
very long, and a rug-needle threaded on it. I may observe,
that a netting-needle is sometimes used as a substitute for a
shuttle. It is very pleasant to work with, but not suitable
for carrying in the pocket ; and as the convenience of being
able so to carry it about is one of the chief recommendations
of this sort of work, an ivory shuttle ought always to be pos-
sessed, although a netting-needle, also, may sometimes be
employed.
The Tatting-stitch is formed by a double movement.
Hold the shuttle lightly between the thumb and the first and
second fingers of the right hand. Take the thread, a few
inches from the end, between the thumb and forefinger of
the left
hand, and carry it round the other lingers,
which
picot. 123
must be held a little apart, and back again to the thumb,
where it is held, between it and the forefinger. By a jerk
or movement of the right hand, throw the thread which goes
between it and the left over the knuckles of the latter, and
pass the shuttle up under the loop round the fingers, and
above the thread round the knuckles. Draw it out again
towards the right with a slight jerk, keeping the thread in
an even horizontal line, and at the same time, contracting
the fingers of the left hand, so as to slacken the thread over
them, which thus forms a slip-knot on the straight thread.
Draw this slip-knot close under the thumb, not by working
the fingers, but by a backward movement of the wrist, the
fingers being again extended. This is half the stitch. For
the other half, drop the thread in front of the work, instead
of throwing it over the hand, and insert the shuttle
from
the
back, under the loop over the fingers. Draw out the shuttle,
and finish the stitch, as before. If the shuttle be not drawn
out quite straight, and held quite extended while the new
loop is being slipped up to its place, the knot will be formed
on the wrong thread, and it will be impossible to draw it up.
This double movement is known in recipes as a double-stitch,
because the half-stitch only was formerly known. When a
given number of stitches is done, they are drawn up, either
quite tightly, so that the first and last stitches touch, or with
a bar of thread between.
Picot.Loops are joined to each other by means of a
picot. It is to make these that the pin and chain are
required. These pins may be made of silver, with a chain
about three inches long, and a ring large enough to slip over
the thumb
;
but a large rug-needle, in which a coarse thread
is knotted, with a loop at the end, for the thumb, will answer
all the purpose. A sharp needle is unfit for this purpose.
For coarse work, one of the large pins, called blanket-pins,
is excellent. Having attached the pin to the thumb of the
124
TO JOINBARS.
left hand, where it hangs down ready for use, do the first
stitch or stitches of the loop. "When the picot is to he made,
lay the point of the needle above and parallel with these
stitches, close to them ; and before making the next, pass
the thread already round the fingers over the pin. Go on
with the stitches without moving the pin, laying the thread
over it, as often as a picot is to be made. When the loop is
finished, withdraw the needle and draw it up. Picots are
sometimes made merely for ornament.
To join.This is always done to a picot, and generally
after doing the same number of stitches as were done after
the last picot of last loop. With the needle, draw the thread
which goes round the fingers through the picot, sufficiently
to allow of the shuttle passing through. When this is done,
stretch it over the fingers again, and continue the work.
Bars.These are always done with a needle, which, at the
commencement of the work, is threaded on the end of the
shuttle-thread. Bars do not occur in all the tatting patterns
;
but when they do, begin by threading on this needle (always
a rug-needle), and tying it with a single-knot, merely to pre-
vent it from slipping off. As in this design you usually
begin with a bar, take up a loop of thread, about a yard from
the needle, between the finger and thumb of the left hand
;
both needle and shuttle being suspended from it. Take up
the needle in your right hand, and stretch out a bit of the
shuttle-thread over the middle finger of the left (not round
all the fingers. With the needle, work on this bar as many
stitches as may be ordered, making picots where required,
either on the shuttle-thread, or that attached to the needle.
The recipes invariably mention which. Observe, that to make
bars, you drop the shuttle, and work with the needle. To
make loops, you use the shuttle only. When picots are
made on the neet^e-thread, take care not to draw it tightly
afterwards, as you will draw out the picot.
TEANSFEEEING
.
125
To join on a new Theead.
When that in the shuttle
is exhausted, fill it again, and join on, at the base of a loop,
with a weaver's knot. Sometimes it happens that there is a
thread left, not long enough for the next loop, but still,
longer than that on the needle. If so, transfer the needle to
it ; and after working in a little of the old end, cut it off.
The Mateeial is the Tatting Cotton manufactured on
purpose for this work, by Messrs. Walter Evans & Co.,
of Derby, England.
TRANSFERRING.
By this term is understood the art of putting embroidery
or lace on a new ground, when that which originally held it
is worn out. We all know that the ground of muslin or lace
is the thinnest and most delicate work ; consequently, it is
always that which wears out the soonest. In expensive
French embroidery, the flowers should be carefully cut out
with sharp lace scissors, and then tacked on toile ciree in the
form to which you desire to remake the article. The out-
lines of the shape should previously be drawn on the green
side of the toile ciree. The various parts are then connected
and formed into a complete piece of work, either by one of
the point lace bars or by any of the methods known as gui-
puring. (See Guipure-worJc.) Sorrento edge bars are very
suitable, and make a very beautiful grounding. Unless the
work is extremely valuable, it will hardly pay to put the
Raleigh bars, which are so very much more tedious than any
other. But if you are making scraps of old point into a piece,
it is necessary to use these bars to give the due effect.
Should any piece be imperfect, you must outline it with
thread and buttonhole it neatly, to make it whole, before
beginning the ground. And any part which may be worn,
126 VELVET BALLS.
that has had fancy stitches, whether in muslin or lace, must
be freshly worked with others.
A fresh edge may be worked, either by using a point edge
or laying on several thicknesses of threads in scallops and
covering with buttonhole-stitch, or by putting a narrow lace
beyond a straight line, covered with buttonhole. Whatever
edge is employed, this part must be done last.
In transferring Honiton lace, remove the ground carefully
and tack the sprigs and edge, face downwards, on the toile
ciree. Lay Brussels net over, and sew the edges with very
fine thread. Cut out the lace under a large sprig, and work
the edges to prevent them from tearing. Or Honiton may
be guipured together, in lace guipure-stitch. (See Guipure.)
VELVET BALLS.
Velvet Balls (for trimming rigolettes, etc.)The ma-
terials are zephyr wool of the same color or colors as the
article to be trimmed, with the Mecklenburg thread No.
1,
of Messrs. Walter Evans & Co., of Derby, England. The
pretty balls with which so many articles of dress are tasselled
are made by tying a number of strands of wool at regular
distances, and cutting through the wools between every two
ties. You may wind over the hands of another person, or
on a winding machine ; but not on anything that will give
way, as it is necessary to use some force in making your
knots secure and compressing the wool as much as possible.
About forty-eight strands will make a full, handsome ball,
tied at every half inch or a little more distant. For making
tassels, at least double the number, cut at nearly an inch
apart. You may vary the pattern (if two colors are em-
ployed) by the mode of winding. By u ing two colors
WIRE-WORK.
127
together, winding both at one movement, a variegated ball
is made. Wind eight white, four colored, alternately, and
spots will appear. I think this the prettiest. If cut at all
unevenly, they nmst be shaved afterwards.
To thread the balls, thread a rug needle with Mechlen-
burg No.
1,
or netting silk. Fasten the end to the work.
Make a thick knot at a little distance on the thread and
slip on a ball, passing the needle in the direction of the
wool, and taking care it does not drag. Another knot at an
inch distance and another ball, and so on.
WIRE-WORK.
Baskets, vases, cigar-stands, and many other ornaments,
are now made in wire-work. They are worked in beads,
chenilles, silks and wools ; beads being at present the most
popular. Choose a frame that has no rough edges or un-
sightly joins; then cover it entirely by winding soft white
braid, Xo. 8 to 12, round it. This serves a double purpose
:
it hides the wire and gives a material for the needle to hold
on. The spaces are variously filled in. In baskets, the bot-
tom is very often made of a piece of Berlin-work, grounded
in white beads ; or filet, darned in an appropriate pattern.
If the latter, the sides usually correspond with it. Or the
divisions of the sides are filled by an open net-work of beads,
lines being taken diagonally in one direction and crossed in
the opposite. Usually, such work is done in two colors and
sizes, the size of the lozenge being of white and the points of
ruby or blue. As the needle passes in both directions through
every point, it is needful that these beads be the largest.
Suppose, for instance, you fasten on your thread and string
five white, one ruby, alternately, to make one line. Secure
128
WIRE-WORK.
it in its place, and then do the shortest cross line, when you
will thread five white, but pass the needle through the ruby
of the former line. Then do a line parallel with the first
;
then the fourth on a line with the second ; and so on. If the
space decreases considerably towards the lower part, you
will arrange so as to diminish also the size of the lozenge.
The wires are frequently covered with beads bound round
them. You use Mechlenburg thread, well waxed (and this
ought always to be done for bead-work), and threading per-
haps a row of beads at a time, wind them, and secure by a
stitch on the braid before threading any more.
O. P. beads are often employed for filling in the sides of
card-trays and baskets. They are either simply threaded in
diamonds, or formed into stars and other ornamental devices,
each of which fills up one space.
Chenille, silk and wool are
also used for connecting the bars
of wire-work. Chenille is most
beautiful for this purpose. The
size employed is a fine size of
chenille ordinaire, not that em-
ployed for embroidery. The en-
graving is an illustration of this
work. A wire frame, something
like the petals of a large lily in
form, but all connected by a wire
round the top, looks exquisite in
rich blue and canary color. The
upright wires, of which there
are twelve, are alternately swelling out and bent in, to give
the form of the flower. The chenille is carried from an inner
wire under and round the outer, then under and round the
next inner, back to the outer, round it, and to the first inner.
This outer wire is thus woven with two inner ones. The next
WIRE CANYAS-WORKPRINTER'S MARKS. 129
line is done in a different color, with one of the inner wires
already partly used, a new outer and new inner one. So all
the six divisions are filled. The top wire and those of the
stand are then wound with chenille, both colors together,
and lying side by side. The beauty of this work depends
much, though not altogether, on the elegance of form of the
wire frame.
"Wire Canyas-woekCard and other baskets are often
done in this work. The material is, in fact, a canvas made
of wire, cut into form and strengthened by thicker wires
round the edges. You buy the frame ready made, and
painted bronze, steel, white, maize, or grey. Then work it
like any other canvas-work, in appropriate designs. Take
care that no threads cross the ground-work, where they
would afterwards be seen ; and fasten off your ends neatly.
Trim with ribbon bands, or fancy trimming.
Printers' Marks.It is frequently necessary, in writing
directions for the work-table, especially for magazines, where
the space devoted to the subject is limited, to contract the
descriptions when there occur repetitions of the same stitches.
To indicate such repetitions, printers' marks are used. They
consist of crosses
X X
, daggers
f f,
asterisks
*
*,
~
etc. Si-
milar ones are placed at the beginning and end ofany part to
be repeated, and the number of times is written after the last.
Thus,
X
3 dc, 5 ch, miss
4, X
3 times, would, if written in
full, be 3 dc, 5 ch, miss 4
;
3 dc, 5 ch, miss
4
; 3 dc, 5 ch,
miss 4.
Sometimes one pair of marks is used within anotherthus,
X
5 dc, 3 ch, miss 2
;
*
1 dc, 3 ch, miss 2
*
twice ; 4 dc, 2
ch, miss 1
X
twice. This, written at length, would be 5 dc,
3 ch, miss
2
; 1 dc, 3 ch, miss
2
; 1 dc, 3 ch, miss 2
;
4 dc, 2
6*
130 PRINTERS' MARKS.
ch, miss
1
; 5 dc, 3 ch, miss
2
; 1 clc, 3 ch, miss 2
;
1 dc, 3 ch,
miss
2
; 4 dc, 2 ch, miss 1.
The reader will see how great a space must be saved by
these contractions and signs, when the repetition would oc-
cur 10 or 12 times, or perhaps even more frequently. She will
especially bear in mind that repetitions always occur between
two similar marks in the same row or round.
END OF INSTRUCTIONS.
SHADING AND COLORING.
A guide to needlework would be incomplete indeed with-
out some directions on the choice and arrangement of colors.
It is true that some people possess naturally an eye for color
;
but this gift is comparatively rare
;
and when it does exist,
it requires careful cultivation, and a knowledge of the prin-
ciples of harmonious tinting to make them fully competent
to arrange the wools for a piece of Berlin-work, or, as it is
technically termed, sort a pattern. There are many hun-
dreds of shades of wools in every well-selected Berlin reposi-
tory. Of greens alone there are ten or twelve distinct hues,
and each of these has twelve to twenty shades. Now some
of these will harmonize with one color, some with another.
It is of the last consequence to the effect of a piece of work,
to choose the tints that will work well together. Instead,
therefore, of troubling the reader with a disquisition on
primary, secondary, and tertiary colors, I will give a list of
those that combine with the best effect.
LEAVES.
Bright Green Rose Leaf.

1 dark Saxon green, 2 of

bright emerald or grass green, and 2 of a somewhat yellower
tint.
J31
132 PINK FLOWERS COMBINATION OF COLORS.
Dark Rose Leaf.Take black for the darkest shade, and
4 shades of clear leaf-green.
Faded Leaf.Black, 2 greens, and a yellowish olive
;
or
for a light faded leaf, 3 shades of olive green (from the light-
est), and two dark myrtle green.
White Hoses, and other White Flowers, may be
shaded with green, grey or fawn, using the lightest and
softest tints only. White silk, as nearly matching the white
wool as possible, may be employed for the lightest shade, and
white wool for the second ; for it is noticeable that silk,
though exactly matching wool, from its texture, always looks
lighter and brighter. Silk may, therefore, be taken for the
lighter shade of any flowers.
Damask Rose.Black, 2 claret, geranium, and coral-pink.
Pink Flowers.Ponceau, rose-pink, and 3 shades of clear
pure pink.
Yellow Flowers are shaded into orange or bronze.
Light Blue into a Marie Louise blue.
Dark Blue into black.
Lavender into dark purple.
Purple into black.
Combination of Colors.White flowers should be sur-
rounded by rich, dark leaves, especially by those partaking
of the olive-green tints. Blue flowers, should have faded, or
olive-green, or yellowish-green leaves. But the more de-
cidedly partaking of the brown autumn tints the better.
The green shades of drab and fawn go well with lilac or
pink. The warmer shades of the same with blue. Greys go
well with pink, and slate with scarlet. The warm brown
tints of drab with yellow. The reddish browns with green.
The
shades of maize, apricot, and salmon, with either green,
violet, or blue ; but it is necessary to select them together,
as each shade would not go equally well with either. Blue
and green (called by the French prijugS vaincu), never
COMBINATION OF COLORS. 133
will, whatever Fashion may dictate, look well together.
Some shades of yellow look well with some greens
;
others
are equally objectionable. They, also, require, therefore, to
be carefully selected.
In choosing a group of flowers to be worked on a light
ground, see that one, at least, is of the same tint. On a bleu
ciel (sky-blue) ground you should have, at least, one blue
flower, or spray of them, of the same tints. When the
ground is light, avoid all very dark tints near it. In a dark
ground, the brightest flowers should be near the centre of
the group. There should be a certain richness about all the
colors, the tone of the leaves, etc. ; while on the lighter
grounds, the utmost softness is especially to be studied.
Two or more bright colors should never be brought, in nee-
dlework, into immediate contact, nor should black ever be
worked next to a clear bright tint. Care is to be taken,
especially, in harmonizing the various colors by the introduc-
tion of the neutral tints. Greens are especially difficult to
deal with, unless the worker be an artist, or, at all events, a
student of nature. Look at any landscape, and see how hues
and tints blend in the distance, how little you can distinguish
of any bright glaring color in relief, and you will certainly
never select such bright, sharp shades of green for the
distant trees of a landscape as I have seen such parts
worked in.
It is needless to say that much of the effect of a piece of
Berlin-work depends on the person who selects the pattern
and materials. An old worn shopkeeper of a design, that has
lain for years in the portfolio, is not likely to be a good pattern
to work from. And even of those that are new and freshly
done, there is a vast difference. One copy of the same
design is often so superior to another as to be worth twice
as much. It is important, therefore, that those who do
not feel sufficiently experienced to choose pattern and wools
134 COMBINATION OF COLORS.
for themselves, should be able to rely on the person to
whom they intrust their commission, since otherwise a great
outlay of time and money may be made, to very little pur-
pose.
The remarks I have made on the mingling of colors in
patterns, and their harmonious combinations, are equally
applicable to every other sort of fancy-work.
PATTERNS
KNITTED EDGINGS.
Shawl Boeder.This might very properly be termed
Universal Edging, since it can be made of any width
desired. It is rich and handsome looking, and especially
pretty for Shetland shawls. Cast on any even number of
stitches, and three over.
1st Bow.K 3 for edge.
X
m
2,
k 2 t.
X
to the end.
2d How.

X
k
2, p 1, X
till three only are left, which knit.
3c?, 5th and 7th Roics.Like 1st.
4th, Qth and 8th Roics.Like 2d.
9th Row.K 3.
X
k 2 t, to the end of the row.
10?A How.Cast off
10,
loosely, and knit the remainder
of the row, decreasing often enough to have, again, only the
original number of stitches
;
but if the lace is wide, and the
increase consequently great, k 2 t, every time you cast off,
so that at the 10 times, you will really cast off 20. In the
remainder of the row, decrease so as to have the same num-
ber of stitches on, with which you began.
This completes one pattern.
Diamond Pointed Edging.Very useful for any purpose
for which strength is essential. The points, being solid, are
not so apt to tear, as in many other designs. Cast on 12.
1st Bow.K
3,
m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, k 5.
2d Bow.K
7, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k 3.
3c? and 4th Hows.Plain knitting.
bth Bow.K
3,
m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, k 5.
(jth Bow.K
7, p 1,
k
2, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k 3.
1th How.Knitting.
Qth Roxo.Cast off 5
;
knit the rest.
135
136 SIX-HOLE POINT AND DEEP VANDYKE EDGING.
Theeehole Point Edging.Cast on 5.
1st Mow.K
3,
m
2,
k 2.
2d Mow.K
3, p
1,
k 3.
3d and 4th Mows.Plain knitting.
5th Mow.K
3,
m 2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2.
QthMoio.K
3, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k 3.
7th How.Plain knitting.
8th Moio.Cast off 5
;
knit 4.
Six-hole Point Edging.Cast on as for the last, and do
the first seven rows.
8^ Mow.Plain knitting.
9th Mow.K 3,
m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, k 1.
10th Mow.K
3, p 1,
k
2, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k 3.
11th Mow.Plain knitting.
12th Mow.Oast off 8. Knit 4.
Five-hole Edging.Cast on 7 stitches ; and work like
the six-hole edging from the 5th Mow
/
casting off 6 stitches
only, at the 12th row.
Deep Vandyke Edging.Cast on 10 stitches.
Is* Mow.K 4,
m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2.
2d Moio.K
3, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k
2, p 1,
k 4.
Sd Mow.Knitted.
4th Mow.k
1,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, m
4,
k 2 t, k
1,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, k 2.
5th Mow.K
4, p 1,
k
4, p
1,
k
1, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k 2.
6th Mow.Knitted.
1th Mow.K 4,
m
2,
k 4 t,
x
m
2,
k 2 t,
x
4 times
;
k
1.
8th Mow.K 1. x
k
2, p 1, x
5 times; k 4.
9th Mow.Knitted.
10th Mow.Cast off 10. Knit the remainder.
Scalloped Edging.
Cast on 9 stitches.
1st Mow.K
2,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
2, m 2,
k
1,
m
2,
k 2.
2d Moio.K
3, p 1,
k
2, p
1,
k 2 t, m 1,
k 2.
3d Mow.K
2,
k 2 t, m 1, k 9.
KNITTED DRIVING GLOYE FOR A GENTLEMAN. 137
4th Bow.
K 2,
m
2,
k 2 t, k
1,
k 2 t, m
2,
k 2 t, k 2 t, m
1,
k 2.
5th Bow.K
2,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
2, p
1,
k
4, p
1,
k 2.
6th Bow.K
10,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2.
1th How.K
2,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
2,
m
2,
k 5 t, m
2,
k 2 t, k 1.
Sth Bow.K
3, p
1,
k
2, p
1,
k
2,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2.
9th Bow.K
2,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 9.
10th How.Cast off. 4 k
4,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2.
A Deep Lace Edging.Cast on 17 stitches.
1st Boic.SI
1,
k
2,
m
1,
si
1,
k 2 t, pass the slip stitch
over, m
1,
k
3,
m
1,
k 2 t, in
1,
k 2 t, m 1,
k 1.
2d, 4th and 6th Bows.K
1, p
all but 5. K 5.
3d How.SI
1,
k
2,
m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2 t, k
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
3,
m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 1.
5th Bow.SI
1,
k
2,
m
1,
k 2 t, k
1,
m
1,
si
1,
k 2 t, pass
the slip stitch over, m
1,
k
5,
m 1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 1.
1th Bow.SI
1,
k
2, m 1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k
1,
m
1,
k 2 t, k
5,
m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 2 t, m
1,
k 1.
Sth Bow.Cast off
5,
and knit the remainder.
Knitted Driving Glove, for a Gentleman.

Mate-
rials.Strong worsted yarn, or Fleecy 8 thread wool, and
knitting needles No. 14, 15, or 16. Cast on 48 stitches alto-
gether.
Join into a round. In ribbed knitting, 2 plain, 2 purled,
alternately, do
1\
to 2 inches. Then the spot pattern (see
instructions). After 6 rounds, begin to make the thumb,
1 B KXITTED DRIVING GLOVE FOE A GESTLEXAX.
thusmake 1 stitch, knit it plain in the following and all
alternate rounds. In the 3d, make 1 on each side of that
already made, which is the centre one of the thumb. In
the 5 th, make 1 on each side of the 3. You now have
5. In the next, make 1 on each side of them; so on
increasing two in every other round, and doing the same
pattern as on the rest of the glove, throughout, until you
have fifteen in the thumb. Continue without increase
until you have done enough to come, easily, to the division
I r. ween the thumb and hand. Slip all the stitches, except
these 14,
on other needles. Put these on 2
;
on a third
cast on
6,
in the same way as you would for a foundation.
Join this into a round. Do the length of the thumb. Close,
by knitting two together on each needle, until it is quite
closed up.
Now, resume the hand, taking up the foundation of the
six made stitches, so as to join them on. Do about
1J
inches, before beginning to form the fingers. On the
stitches taken up for the fore-finger depends the set of the
glove, and whether it is right-hand or left. The six made
stitches should always form the front of it, and if
you take them
after
eight more, then make four, as for the
thumb, and close, it will make the right-hand glove. If
you take these six first, then eight more of the round, then
make four, close, and knit, it will suit the
left
hand. After
making this finger long enough, close like the thumb. The
middle finger takes up the foundation of the
4, 6 from the
palm of the hand, 4 new cast on, and 7 from the back of the
hand. Third finger the same. The remainder, taking
up
the foundation of the last
4,
without making any new, form
the little finger. All the ends, when cut off, must be drawn
in, an I
: I off on the wrong side. The inner
parte of
the fingers may be lined with chamois leather. The coarser
the ne
1. the larger will be the glove. I men-
tion, therefore, thr
ejnttted eigoeette.
139
Lady's Wibtbb Ovee-Gloves.These are most comfort-
able articles of dress in cold weather, especially tor those
ladies who require the use of their hands when out of doors
and do not hke to be burdened with a muff, yet suffer from
cold.
Select eight-thread Berlin wool, of black, or any dark color,
and about Xo. 1 7 needles. Proceed exactly as for the gentle-
man's glove, until you come to the
fingers,
which knit alto-
gether, like an infant's glove. Take care to close into a good
shape, the six made stitches being before the palm ones in
one, after in the other. These six must be the beginning or
end of one needle. Of them k
1,
k 2 t. Now knit within
three of half the round. K 2 t, k 1. The other half round
the same. Knit one plain round and repeat ; do these two
rounds until there are twenty-four only altogether. Then
close like the toe of a stocking. (See instructions.)
KxittedRigolette.

Materials.
Four-thread Berlin wool, eigh-
teen skeins of any bright color, and
thirty of white. Ivory need! ss, N .
B. Also a reel of the royal Mech-
lenbnrg thread, Xo. 1. of Messrs.
W. Evans & C .. of Derby, Eng-
land.
With the colored wool, cast on
two hundred stitches. D ;< one
:.
(See instructions also for
Pyrenees Diamond Knitting and
Balls.) Join on the white wool.
Purl one row. Then do eight rows,
PyrciK-es pattern. Ridge ( sd).
White. Purl
1,
and do eight more
Pyrenees. Another edge, eol<
Join on the white. Do ten rows,
140 KNITTED EIGOLETTE.
alternately purled and plain. Knit with every stitch of the
next row one of those of the purled white row after the mid-
dle ridge, so that this white work, which forms a lining for
the open Pyrenees, be joined to it. Do eleven more plain
white rows; cast off, and sew to the casting-on stitches.
Draw up the ends so that the two ridge edges join and form
a rounded extremity.
The back of this rigolette is something in the form of a
half handkerchief. Cast on one hundred stitches with the
colored wool and do one ridge. Join on the white
;
purl one
row ; do six Pyrenees. Another ridge. Join on white
;
purl
one row ; then do about six inches, decreasing three at the
commencement of every row until half the number of stitches
only remains. It only remains to sew this to the front, so
that it comes sufficiently far down on each ear ; and to finish
the rigolette with the ball trimming.
Make one hundred and thirty small balls and twenty-four
large ones. Make the latter into two handsome tassels, of
four drops, with three balls on each. Join to the ends.
Thread a rug needle with a long thread of Mechlenburg.
Ascertain how much of the rigolette will actually surround
the face. Join your thread to the first point of this part of
the edge ridge ; slip on a ball
;
join to the next point but
one ; slip on another ball ; continue so all round the face.
Trim the other edge of the front (where it joins to the back)
with loops, having four balls on each. Then trim the back,
with loops of five balls each, carrying them down in smaller
loops a little way along each side of the front.
Small ornamental buttons, with an elastic between, may be
used to fasten this head-dress beneath the chin; or white
sarsonet strings may be added.
The prettiest colors for this purpose are cerise and white
;
pink, crimson, or blue, with white
;
or bine and maize, if the
shade be pretty. Those who are fond of those charming
KNITTED WLNTER BASQUE FOR A CHILD. 141
shades usually called Quaker colors, will find any stone, drab,
or fawn, with white, extremely pretty
and becoming.
Knitted Winter Basque
for a Child.

Materials.

Four-thread white and eight-

thread
colored Berlin wool.
No. 10 ivory needles and
No. 18 steel do.
The first part to be done
is the frilled trimming round
the lower part of the basque.
With the bone needles, cast
on sixteen stitches
*.
Knit
one row, purl one, knit one,
purl one; join on the colored
wool. Knit two rows.
3d Bow.K
1, X
m
1,
k
2 t,
X
to the end.
4th Bow.Knit
*.
Join on
the white wool ; and repeat
between the stars forty times,
ending with four extra white
rows. Now take up the
edges of all this stripe on one side, making one hundred and
twelve stitches. Join on the colored wool and knit the row.
Two white-stitch edges must be knitted together to reduce
to one hundred and twelve
;
and this first row must be knit-
ted with the right side of the work to you. Knit another row.
Then one of open-hem, as in the frill. Then one plain row.
Join on the white, and knit in diamond honeycomb-stitch
(see
instructions) fully four inches deep. One front is then
worked, and requires thirty stitches; do nine diamonds,
which brings it to the shoulder. Then decrease two stitches
in every alternate row at that edge nearest the back until
142 SLEEVE HOOD TRIMMING FOE HOOD.
fourteen stitches only are left. Cast off. The other front is
clone to correspond, leaving sixty-two stitches for the back.
Back.Join on your thread and cast off the first six
stitches; knit the remaining fifty-six, of course, in diamond
honeycomb ; in the next needle, cast off six again. These
straight pieces go under the arm. Knit the hack to match
the fronts, only cast off two at the beginning of each needle,
when you get to the shoulder, for several rows ; then every
alternate row only ; so that thirty-six may be left to cast off,
when the same depth is done as on the fronts. Take up the
edge stitches down the fronts and along the outer edge of
the frill. With the right side of the work towards you, knit
one row with the colored wool, doing two edge stitches as
one, down the sides. Do another
;
then the open-hem ; then
another ; and cast ofi loosely.
Sleeve.Do a frill, like that trimming the body, but 12
stitches wide only, and 9 perfect patterns. Cast off. Take
up the edge-stitches. {Colored wool.) Do 2 plain rows, the
open-hem, another row, and cast off loosely. This is the
lowest edge of the sleeve. Take up the stitches at the other
edge. Join on the colored wool, and do 2 rows plain knit-
ting, having 30 stitches. Take the fine needles, and white
wool, and do 8 rows, 4 knitted and the 4 alternate purled.
Join on the colored wool, and with the large needles, do 1
plain row. With the white wool, purl one row, making a
stitch after every stitch
;
then 5
X
inches diamond honey-
comb, complete the sleeve.
Hood.White wool. Begin on 12 stitches. Work in
the same stitch as the rest, increasing one stitch at the end
of every row, until 34 rows are seen at the back. Do 2 plain
colored, and 2 plain white rows, and cast off, knitting 2
together along the centre 36 stitches, and knitting very
tightly, to make that part full.
Trimming for Hood.A similar frill to that of the
NETTED MITTEXS IN MALTESE LACE. 143
sleeves and body, on eight stitches only. Twenty-two patterns
will suffice. Treat one edge as before, and cast off loosely.
The inner edge the same, but take 2 white stitches as one
;
do open-hem, 1 row after ; and cast off very tightly, esj^ecially
in the centre. Put this trimming round the jloping sides
of the hood, so that half the width goes beyond it. Sew it
round, as neatly and invisibly as possible. Join up the
sleeves, and sew them in, with white wool ; and with the
same, crochet together the body and hood, in single crochet,
making the fullness fall in the neck. A crochet trimming is
added round all the frills, thus : white wool, sc in a hole of
the open-hem
; X
3 eh, very loosely ; sc in next hole.
X
repeat all round every frill. A small woollen cord, with
tassels of wool to match, may easily be made, to fasten it at
the throat, the cord being run in and out, beneath the hood.
A coarse bone hook should be used for the crochet.
By increasing every part in due proportion, a larger
basque may easily be made, from these instructions. Eight
stitches extra in each sleeve require 32 in the body, and 8
in the hood
;
depth of every part increased
;
and 4 stitches
more for each frill.
Netted Mittens, ix Maltese Lace.

Materials.

Very fine black netting silk, No. 14 mesh, with a flat

one, one-quarter of an inch wide, and No. 11 round
mesh.
Make a foundation of 46 stitches, 40 being for the hand,
and 6 for the thumb. Work 3 rounds, with No. 14 needle.
Now with Xo. 11 do 2 stitches in every stitch. Take the
fine mesh, and do a round, treating every 2 stitches as one,
and taking them together. Two more fine rounds, and then
"no with the flat mesh, after which, with the fine mesh, work
the stitches as in Xo. 7 edging. The hand is done in plain net-
ting with the fine mesh, increasing only for the thumb. This
is done by netting 2 in the first and last of the 6. Three plain
144 IMITATION HONITON LACE.
rounds ; then increase on first and last of 8. Three more
rounds
;
increase on the first and last of 10
;
and so on, when
half way up the thumb, increase somewhat oftener. On
coming to the division of the thumb from the hand, it will
be necessary to take up the thumb-stitches, and add six more
on a foundation. Net round and round, about an inch,
gradually decreasing the six extra stitches. Do a round with
No. 11 mesh, like that already done, and 2 fine rounds.
Finish with the narrow shell edging. Resume the hand,
taking up the 6 stitches. Net round and round, gradually
taking these in. Do the length you require, and if you wish
half fingers, take one-fourth of the stitches, and 2 extra on a
foundation, for the fore-finger, observing the rules as to its
position with regard to the thumb given in the
'
Knitted
Mitt.' Each other finger must be done the same, and
finished with a line of double-stitches, like the thumb. But
for the little finger, you do not make any extra, but only
take up those of the third. If no fingers are put, do the
double round, and fine ones after, round the knuckles, and
in either case, finish with the narrow shell edging. Round
the wrist do the broad edging, No.
6,
and run an elastic
through the open round. Darn the back, in three lines,
meeting at the wrist, in any simple pattern.
Imitation Honiton Lace.Twelve patterns, with section
of a completed collar.
I do not advise any one to select this for their first essay
in crochet ; it requires some skill to work, at all, with very
fine cotton, such as alone is suitable for this purpose. But
after a little practice with coarser materials, the worker will
find no insurmountable difficulty in any of these patterns,
especially as the number of chain-stitches is generally indi-
cated. Among the 12 patterns will be found 4 borders and
8 sprigs;
and all have been taken from some of the choicest
specimens
of Honiton. Nos. 1 and 4 are for veils or sleeves,
IMITATION IIOXITON LACE.
145
5 for collars only, 12 for any article whatever. A few gene-
ral directions will suffice for this sort of work.
Speig
1.
Begin at a with a chain of 60. Slip back on one
stitch, sc on onother, sdc on a third, 1 dc on the fourth,
*
5 ch, miss
5,
1 dc.
*
all the length, but close as you began.
Work up on the other side of the original chain in the same
way, but the dc stitch must fall on the middle (or third} of
every five. Do 3 in 1 at the point, and then on the other
side the same. This makes your centre. Work round it the
pointed scallops, from sc to long tc (see Crochet instruc-
tions), diminishing each scallop suddenly, and adding 5 in
the stitch at the extreme point, and 3 in 1 on each side of it.
The stem 16 ch. Then comes a little loop on one side, of 16.
You close this into a round, and work on it in sc. Where
the line happens to be thicker, it shows you must do it in dc
or tc, according to the depth. Continue the stem as many
chain as are mentioned, then the next flower with five petals.
The stem of this flower has no figures to mark the number
of chain, but a similar one, on the opposite side, has ; and
and this is intended as the guide. Each petal, also, has 8
chain, on which you work, miss
1,
5 dc, 1 sdc, 1 sc. Con-
tinue in this way up one side of the spray, and down the
other, doing each flower perfectly as you come to it, and sc
stitches on the chain of the stem itself when going down again.
The border No. 5 (see Plate I., Fig.
3)
is Avorked by mak-
ing a chain in the entire length, allowing seventeen stitches
for each pattern, and two over. Work back,
x
2 sc, 3 ch,
1 dc, 3 ch, 1 tc, 3 ch, 1 dc, 3 ch, x do this throughout the
length. Now on the original chain do
*
2 sc on
2,
1 sdc, 2
dc, 1 sdc, 2 dc, 1 stc, 7 tc, 1 stc, 2 dc, 1 sdc,
*.
Do this on
each pattern. Work on the other side, with 2 sdc, 11 dc, 2
slip on 2 sc, 2 sdc; make the little spray after the fifth of
every 11 dc.
The sixth spray is, in fact, three perfect ones, and may be
7
146 CORAL PATTERN GUIPURE SLEEYE.
used as such. This is the way, also, in which it should
be worked. The flowers seen in
8, 9,
and 11 having been
already worked in other combinations, the number of founda-
tion-stitches is not given. The border No. 12 has each flower
worked separately but the second, and each successive one
is united to the last in the outer round of the scallop, where
the two flowers are seen just to touch. Worked entirely
separately, this flower also makes a very pretty sprig.
You will observe that whenever a doubt can be supposed
to arise as to the place where the work is to be begun, the
letter a indicates it.
No.
50, 70,
or even 100 Boar's Head Crochet Cotton, with
hook No. 24,
should be used for this work. (Plate I., Fig.
4.)
In the third engraving is a section of a completed collar.
In reference to it, I may say that I should prefer the large
flowers for the outer row, but that the arrangement, as it
stands, was in a very beautiful real Honiton collar. The
English rosettes are done in No. 50 cotton.
Guipure Embroidery for Children's Pantalettes, etc.
(See Plate II., Fig.
2.)
Materials.Fine but close jaco-
net, with the Royal Embroidery Cotton, No. 24,
and Boar's
Head Crochet Cotton, Nos. 16 and
50, of Messrs. Walter
Evans & Co.
I have selected this pattern for illustration, as it is both
strong and very effective. The bars are to be done in the
Boar's Head Cotton, No. 16. Every part of the design is done
in buttonhole-stitch, and the graduated scallops and Chinese
eyelet-holes are to be considerably raised. There is hardly
any purpose to which muslin-work of this width might be
applied for which this design would not be both handsome
and appropriate. The rosettes are in No. 50 cotton.
Coral Pattern Guipure Sleeve.(Plate III. Fig. 2.)

The materials are Nansook muslin, guipure net, and Evans'

Royal Embroidery Cotton, Nos. 20 and 30.
STRIPED CROCHET TIDY OE LOUNGE COVEE. 147
The engraving gives the centre of the sleeve, the coral
branches turning in opposite directions. Each half should
be copied from the spray nearest to it. The ground is gui-
pure net. Trace the design with a double thread, carefully
taking up the net whenever it is possible. Do the outlines
in a narrow line of buttonhole, with No. 30 cotton. The rose
buttonhole of the scallops and wheels is in No. 20 cotton.
Patent Applique Slippees.(See Plate II. Fig. 5.) Scar-
let and black applique cloth, and maize Russia braid, in which
the outlines are simply braided. They may be obtained in
many other combinations of color and varieties of pattern.
Doylet foe a Feuit Dish, rx Square Ceochet.(See
Plate II., Fig.
3.)
Materials.No. 12, 14, or
16,
Evans'
Boar's Head Crochet Cotton, with a suitable hook.
To be worked in square crochet, according to the instruc-
tions already given ; and trimmed with a suitable crochet
lace.
This design would also look very handsome netted and
darned. For this, No. 8 Boar's Head must be used for the
netting, with No. 12 knitting cotton for darning. You begin
as for square crochet, but with fifteen stitches, increasing at
the end of every row until you have fifty-six holes up one
side. Put a mark on that side, and cease to increase there
;
but continue to do so on the other side, in every alternate
row, until there are sixty-nine holes there, when you cease
to increase. On the side there were fifty-six, there must now
be fourteen holes made, which will be nearly done by this
time. Then net two together at this end, which will be in
every other row ; and when there are fourteen holes at the
other corner, begin to decrease these also, until you end with
fourteen holes only, fifteen stitches. Add a netted lace all
round, and darn according to the engraving.
Striped Crochet Tidy, or Lounge Cover.(See Plate
II., Fig. 1
.)
Materials.No. 10 Evans' Boar's Head Crochet
148 GLOUCESTER POINT COLLAR.
Cotton ; No. 4 do. for fringe. Turquoise Blue Beads, No.
2. Worked lengthwise.
The narrow stripes are done in sc, with the design formed
in beads, the broad in square crochet. Make a chain the
required length, divisible by
78,
with 1 over. Do the narrow
stripe, every pattern of which requires twenty stitches. On
this work the broad stripe, reversing the work, the open
crochet being done on the wrong side of the bead crochet,
and again turning for the next narrow stripe. Do any width
you please, always ending with a narrow stripe. One row
of dc and one of square crochet at each end, with fringe, will
complete it. Or a narrow bead border may be worked at
each end.
Gloucester Point Collar.(See Plate III., Fig.
1.)
Materials.The Point Lace Cottons of Messrs. Walter
Evans & Co.
The engraving represents a section of the collar, on the
scale of the original, which was worked in the hope that I
might be able to present it to the late venerated and beloved
Princess, the Duchess of Gloucester, the only surviving aunt
of Queen Victoria, little dreaming that ere it could be com-
pleted the last daughter of George III. would have joined
her parents in the tomb. I will not venture to say that my
handiwork would have been worthy of the acceptance of
that excellent lady, but as in the opinion of judges it was so,
I think it may be of some interest to other workers. It is
done in Spanish Point, but very slightly raised in parts. The
flower of England, the rose, with branches of forget-me-nots,
forming the design. Being of such delicate texture, the out-
lines are done with No.
7,
instead of No.
1,
Mecklenburg.
The roses are variously filled in, the centre one, as seen in
the engraving ; the other two in pairs, somewhat differently.
A double line of Moravian is laid in as a foundation for the
Kaleigh-dottcd
edge of the roses and buds, and a treble line
APPLIQUE SMOKING CAP. 149
for the outline of the collar, on which the scallop is worked.
By looking at the illustrations of the Point-stitches, you will
see what are appropriate for the remainder of the collar.
Embroidered Cuff.(See Plate L, Fig.
5.)
Materials.
Narrow lace insertion, Nansook muslin, and Evans' Em-
broidery Cotton, No. 36.
I give this as a sample of an extremely pretty and effec-
tive, but uncommon sort of work, in which very narrow lace
insertion is used to spare the labor of lines of open-hem.
The lace is not more than one-fifth of an inch wide, and is
laid on over the muslin whenever double parallel lines are seen
in the engraving. This lace is attached to the muslin by
neat narrow buttonhole. It is cut away from those parts
which are embroidered, and the rose buttonhole-stitch, of
the flowers, will effectually secure the ends. Between every
two rows of lace is one of eyelet-holes, which are neatly
sewed over. The border may be done as seen in the engra-
ving, or, if preferred, this part may be omitted, and a neat
narrow lace edging sewed on. The engraving represents the
cuff diminished about one-half.
Medallion Pattern Sleeve.(See Plate IV., Fig. 1.)

The material for this handsome sleeve is Nansook muslin,

with the Royal Embroidery Cotton, No. 30 and 40, of Walter
Evans & Co.
This pattern will be excellent practice for those who
desire to try satin-stitch, without having a very elaborate
piece of work ; as every flower in the medallion is worked
in this manner, with No. 40 cotton. All the remainder of
the design is in buttonhole-stitch, even or graduated, except
the eyelet-holes, which are neatly sewed over. The fine
cross-barred parts of the engraving have the muslin left as a
ground, but it is cut away from beneath the guipure bars.
Applique Smoking Cap.(See Plate II., Fig. 4.) The
materials for such a cap as this should be purchased ready
150 BRAIDED DINGER MAT GUIPURE COLLAR.
prepared and begun from a store ; and all the necessary ma-
terials for completion, including the tassel, must be obtained
at the same time. The original of this is in rich black velvet
with the serpentine part in crimson satin. Two different
soutache cover the join of the two materials, above and
below ; and the waved line is of black velvet edged with
gold, and with black cut beads along the centre. The
scrolls are in gold braid, and Albert ditto. The tassel is in
black and blue silk, and gold fringe, with passementerie
button.
Lamp Mat in Berlin-work.(See Plate IV., Fig
3.)
Materials.Black and chalk white beads, No.
2,
bright
green, and scarlet Berlin wool.
The white beads in this pattern are indicated in the engra-
ving by white squares ; and the black by black squares. These
should be done first. The squares which have a line down
them are to be worked in scarlet wool, in cross-stitch ; the
remainder in green. The border is in O. P. beads. Any
other, and richer one may be substituted for it.
Braided Dinner Mat.(See Plate III., Fig. 3.)An
entire set ought to be worked, on fine cloth in broad and
narrow, or plain Russia and alliance braids, of suitable colors.
These mats should be lined with stout mill-board, covered
with silk on one side. A silk cord should finish the edores.
Guipure Collar.(See Plate V., Fig.
1.) Materials.

Jaconet muslin, narrow Eugenie tape, with Evans' Mechlen-

burg Thread, No.
80,
and Royal Embroidery Cotton, No. 24.
The entire collar may readily be drawn from the section
in the engraving, which is given of the full size. About
eight scallops, will be required for an ordinary collar. The
scrolls are formed of Eugenie braid, laid on the muslin.
After the bars are done, its edges are closely buttonholed.
The rest of the pattern is overcast, including the scalloped
border. The Raleigh bars are done with the Mecklenburg
TIDY FOR A PRIE-DIEU CHAIR. 151
thread ; but every other part with embroidery cotton.
When completed the muslin is cut away from under all the
bars.
Maltese Lace Sleeve.(See Plate IV., Fig. 4.) This
is an excellent imitation of Maltese lace, done with linen
braid, and No. 80 Mechlenburg thread.
Take a bit of Maltese lace of any design you please, and
draw the pattern on the green side of a strip of toile ciree.
Braid the broad lines with linen tape of the same width (or
perhaps the design requires that two different widths be
used). Then connect the various parts with English and
Alencon bars
;
working a rosette, or a few spots of English
lace, here and there, and finishing the outer line with Sor-
rento, or Venetian edging.
Tidy for a Prie-dielt Chair.(See Plate V., Fig. 4.)

This is intended to fit the chair, and may be done in either

netting or crochet. The size of the mesh must depend on
that of the chair for which it is intended ; but probably one
as large as No. 7 will be wanted. In crochet it must be
worked in Long square (see instructions). The materials
are No. 4 Evans' Boar's Head Crochet Cotton
;
with No. 4
Knitting for darning, if netted. A piece ought to be
worked for the top, and a strip for the back, so that the up-
per part should form a sort of bag, to fit that part of the chair.
Complicated as the shape is, it is by no means difficult to
make it in netting. Crochet, of course, presents no diffi-
culty. Begin at the left-hand corner in one stitch, and work
as for square netting, until there are twenty holes on one
side. Put a bit of colored thread in to mark this side. The
next time you come to it neither increase nor decrease. But
after this net two together here, while in the other row you
continue to increase, until there are 12 holes so formed.
Now increase at the end of every row until you have, along
the straight side, as many holes as at the top except one.
152 FOOT OTTOMAN IX BERLIN-WORK.
Then begin to decrease there, till ten holes are done, when
you complete this wide part by doing the little three-cor-
nered bit cut off by the diagonal line seen across the engra-
ving, which is done by working so many stitches only, and
decreasing at the end of every row. Resume the long part,
increasing on the row ending at the long side, and decreasing
at the other, till the entire long side is done, when omit the
increase in one row, and then decrease every row until it is
finished. Darn, and add a fringe of crochet cotton.
Modern Point Lace Collar.(See Plate V., Fig. 2.)

The materials are ~No. 7 French white cotton braid, and the
Point Lace cottons.
The section given of the centre of the collar, is the full
sizes, and the rest should be drawn from it. The scrolls may
be variously filled up ; but all the ground-work is done as
seen in various sections of the centre scallop.
Foot Ottoman in Berlin-work.I give this repre-
sented as made up, to convey an idea of the manner in which
CEOCHET OVER-SHOE. 153
it should be done. The stripes are alternately in velvet and
in Berlin-work, done on border canvas, in a medallion, or
other suitable design. The original of this had the medal-
lions in amber beads of various shades, and the small bor-
der in the same. The ground in rich green Berlin, and the
centres of the medallions in dark claret, to match the velvet
which composes the alternate stripes. For a footstool, the
worked stripes ought not to be more than five inches wide.
But the same style, on a larger scale, is equally adapted for
chairs and lounging ottomans.
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Ceochet axd Bead Boedee.A neat narrow border for
a tidy, which can be done in crochet bead-work, is so often
neededthe engravings rarely giving such borders suffi-
ciently distinctly to be worked fromthat I add this espe-
cially for that purpose. It may be used for many other pur-
poses, and would, of itself, make a very pretty design for a
tidy, worked in open square, and bead crochet alternately, in
the manner already given.
Ceochet Ovee-shoe.(See Plate IT., Fig.
5.) Materials.

8 thread fleecy wool, a coarse crochet-hook, and knitting

needles. Begin at the toe, with a chain of 15 or
17,
accord-
ing to the size of the foot, and work in ribbed crochet, doing
3 stitches in the centre stitch of every alternate row, until
you come to the rise of the instep
;
then do 5 in
1,
for seve-
154 DESIGN FOR DARNED VANDYKE NETTING.
ral times. When the whole front of the boot is done, work
from the centre, on one side, making a few chain at the mid-
dle to increase the height of the boot round the ankle. Do
enough to go round the back of the foot to the front again,
and crochet it up. In the other foot be careful that this join
comes on the reverse side. Knit in garter-stitch a piece one
and a half inches wide, and work on it a fur trimming. (See
Fur trimming in Knitting instructions.) Sew it round
the ankle, without contracting it ; and add cork soles lined
with silk, or with an inside sole of sc.
Carriage Bag, in Berlin-work.(Plate V., Fig.
3.)
Materials.Black and chalk white beads, No. 1 or 2. Scar-
let and rich green wool. Canvas suitable to the beads. (See
Canvas.) Green silk cord and skeleton frame.
The pattern is in stripes
;
green ground, with white beads,
had scarlet ground with black beads. The small stars which
divide the stripes are done alternately in each kind of bead.
By a slight error in the engraving, they are not made, as
they ought to be, to touch. It must be remembered that
all these bags are made of one piece of canvas, long enough
to cover both sides of the frame.
Invalid's What-not.(See Plate VI., Fig. 2.) Is made
of satin, silk, or cloth, braided or embroidered. The founda-
tion is card-board, covered with the material, and lined with
silk. It must be worked on the right side. The three
pockets are braided or embroidered. The upper one, which
should have the initials in the centre, is divided into three
parts, by lines of stitching. It will hold the watch, chain,
and other notions, while the lower ones are very convenient
for the handkerchief, Cologne bottle, and such trifles as it is
convenient for an invalid to have about her. Each pocket,
as well as the frame, is trimmed with quilled ribbon.
Design for Darned Vandyke Netiing.Having already
given full instructions for Vandyke netting and darning,
I
APPLIQUE TOILET CUSHION.
155
need add nothing here on the subject. It may, of course,
be done in any degree of fineness.
The pattern is equally appropriate for square crochet, the
points being made according to the rules given for decreas-
ing or sloping the edges of crochet designs. It may be
applied, also, for darning on filet, for baskets, and other pur-
poses.
Medallion Insertion in Muslin Embroidery.
(See
Plate VI., Fig. 5.) The same materials and mode of work-
ing as the medallion pattern sleeve, which it is intended to
match. Such a design is, indeed, required for the band of a
Manche Duchesse, the form in which such sleeves are usually
worn ; I mean a sleeve with a deep worked frill, falling over
the hand, set in a worked band, below a plain full muslin
sleeve.
Braided Slipper.(Plate VI., Fig. 4.)The material is
cloth or velvet, on which the design is marked, and a piece
of soutache of any color that will harmonize. One piece of
soutache should suffice for a pair of slippers. It ought not
to be too broad.
Applique Toilet Cushion.(See Plate VI., Fig. 3.) The
materials for this cushion are an oblong piece of dark blue
cloth, on which the design is applique in scarlet. Black
Albert braid, gold braid, gold thread, No. 3, Passemen-
terie trimmings.
156 infant's embroidered shoe.
This cushion is to be suspended from the wall. The back
is of straight card-board, covered with silk. The other side
is stmTed, and considerably raised in the centre. The out-
lines of the pattern are in gold braid ; the parts indicated by
black lines are Albert braid, outlined with gold thread. The
cloth being sewed over the cushion, is finished with fancy
cord, and the tassels are added.
Handsome Mat in O. P. Beadwork.(Plate VII. Fig.
1.)
The colors used for this mat are given below, and the
strength of the cotton employed in making it being very
essential, Evans' Beading Cotton, No.
00,
will be the best.
Begin it down the centre, according to the instructions, and
finish off the ends neatly and securely. A handsome bead
fringe, or other trimming, must be added, to complete it.
Dark Purple,
ffl
Light Purple.
Eg)
Medium Purple.
Q
Bright Green.
Darker
Green.
EB
Pale Amber,
g)
Darker Amber. Clear White.
H
Opal,
gj
Claret.
3
Ruby.
B|
Dark Amber.
Infant's Embroidered Siioe.

Materials. Fine white

cashmere,
and ombre crimson silk. It may be made up with
cork
soles. The shoe is composed of two pieces; the front,
and the back, which latter forms almost a boot, buttoning
close
on the ankle. A simple pattern is marked on the front,
and worked in embroidery, the centre of the leaves being
SUSPENSION FLOWER VASE VASE MAT. 157
composed of French knots. A double border of fancy-her-
ringbone-stitch is worked all round, and also trims the edges
of the back. These both should be lined with quilted silk,
neatly piped, and sewed on cork soles, which are previously
lined and bound with ribbon.
Suspension Flower Vase.A wire
frame. O. P. Beads, and Evans' Bead-
ing Cotton, No. 000,
are required.
The beads will look best if the fringes
are of graduated colors. The frame
is of three rounds. The smallest is
filled in, to make it strong and firm.
The three are then connected by lines
of beads crossing each other. (See
Wire-work.) Then a bead tassel is
attached to the centre of the lowest,
and bead fringes to the edges of the
others. The chains for suspending it
must also be of beads.
Vase Mat.(See Plate IV., Fig.
2.)
To be worked on canvas with beads
and wool. Alabaster, coral, and violet
beads, emerald green wool. A reference to the engraving
will show the arrangement of the colors. The centre orna-
ment, an elongated cross, is done in coral beads; and the
same form the outer edge and fringe. The principal pattern
is in alabaster beads, the corner ornaments in violets, with a
white bead in the middle of each square and the entire
ground in green wool. The fringe-border may be omitted,
and an O. P., or any wide fancy border, added.
Patchwork Design.This would serve also for a Berlin
pattern, for a sofa cushion, or many other purposes. The
outlines are done entirely in black wool, and the figures filled
in with various colors, according to taste. The crosses should
158 DESIGN FOE SUSPENDERS.
be dark and the stars light ; or the arrangement may be
reversed. The same, if employed for patchwork. The direc-
tion of the lines shows the right way of the silk or velvet,
which is of much importance in producing a good effect in
patchwork.
Design for Suspenders, on silk canvas with floss silks.
(Plate VIII., Fig. 2.)Three shades of yellowish green
are required for the leaves, two shades of olive for the acorn
cup, and a dead green (not yellow) for the acorn. The same
PICCOLOMINI COLLAR AND CUFF. 159
color for the leaf in the squirrel's mouth. Three shades of red
brown (the natural color of the animal) for the squirrel, but the
eye is composed of four stitches, one white and three dark
brown. The colors of the border are shown by the type, w
T
hich
corresponds with that of the acorn cup, and lightest leafgreen.
HiailDllia BIIIIIIIIIHIIIIItllltB19llllBIII"BIIIIIII
m iiiimuiiKii.ii.il Miuiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiu iiiiii..-Mi.iiKiiiiiiii!;,hu liiiiiriiniiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiuiiii miiiiiili .liiiUiiiiiiiiuiiii a
1.111 ill IIIIIQ
ram
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Book-mark.Motto,
"
Praise ye the Lord." Perforated
cards, suitable for working this and similar mottoes, devo-
tional or friendly, may be purchased at a very moderate cost.
The letters and border are then worked, with China silk of
various colors, in cross or tent-stitch. Seed beads, also,
look very pretty for this purpose.
Collar and Ccff in Broderie a la Point de Poste.
(Plate VII., Fig. 2).The materials are jaconet muslin and
the royal perfectionnee embroidery cotton No. 18,
of Messrs.
Walter Evans & Co., of Derby, England.
The small branching fibres of the sprays in this design are
done d la poste, the flowers have the holes pierced and sewed
over, and the border is in scallops d la rose, and considerably
raised. One half the cuff and a considerable section of the
full sized collar are given, from which the whole can readily
be drawn. This sort of embroidery is particularly adapted
to the morning toilette.
Piccolomini Collar and Ccff.(Plate VII., Fig. 3.)

Materials.Fine jaconet muslin and the royal perfectionnee

160 BORDER FOE A TABLE-COYER.
embroidery cotton Nos. 14 and
24,
of Messrs. Walter Evans
& Co., of Derby, England.
Exactly one half the collar drawn of the full size is given
in the engraving, and somewhat more than half the cuff, the
centre of the rod being the middle, at least for an ordinary
hand. By some oversight of the engraver, this rose is not
veined in the petals, as it ought to be, but the worker can
easily supply the deficiency by carrying a line up the centre
of each and sewing it over.
After tacking the muslin on the toile ciree, work with the
coarse cotton the bars which form the ground. Take first
one long line down the depth of the collar and nearest the
end. In overcasting it, do each short bar on the one side of
it as it comes. Then do each successive long bar, with the
short ones belononn^ to that side of it which comes nearest
the last. When all the bars are done, outline with a double
line and buttonhole the edges of the flowers and other parts
of the design
;
then the small scalloped border. Cut away
the muslm from under the bars only, leaving the heavy pat-
tern in jaconet on a light open ground. The bars are all
clone in 14, the rest of the work in 24 cotton.
Spanish Point Sleeve, to correspond with the Gloucester
Collar.(Plate VIII., Fig. 1.) The materials are, of course,
precisely the same as those for the collar, the engraving
being on a reduced scale. The depth is a suitable increase
on that of the collar. On the side will be seen a diagram of
the siikll-stitch mentioned under the head of muslin-work
(page
83),
which is employed with excellent effect in the
roses of this design.
Border for a Table-cover, in golden tapestry.(Plate
VI II., Fig. 2.) The materials are those mentioned under
the head of Golden Tapestry: three shades of golden olive
wool, with crochet silk to mutch the lightest, and with which
it is crossed. The ground, dec]) claret, blue, or green, eight-
TRIMMING IX TATTING. 161
thread Berlin. The canvas, of course, suitable. The design
is from a natural spray of the wild convolvulusthe morning
glory of Americaa plant found commonly in the hedge-rows
of England, the flower being a pure white. The three
shades are shown in the engraving by the depth of tinting,
the lightest being represented by white lines. The plain
squares are the ground. A single line of each of these golden
shades may form a border on both sides, if it be thought
desirable.
Trimming in Tatting.(Plate VIIL, Fig. 3.)

Materials.
For fine work, Evans' Tatting Cotton, or Boar's Head
Crochet Cotton, No.
16
; for coarse work, No. 000,
or 0000
of their beading cotton.
Like all Tatting with bars, a needle as well as a shuttle is
required.
Bar.

5 double, picot on the shuttle thread, 6 double,

picot on the needle thread, 5 double.
1st Loop.

5 double, join on the picot first made, 14

double, picot, 5 double, draw it up. In every pattern but
the first, you do instead of 14 double V double, join to the
opposite picot, 7 double.
Bar.

5 double, picot on needle thread, 5 double.

2c? Loop.

5 double, join to opposite picot of last loop, 14

double, (or in after patterns
7,
join, and
7,)
picot, 5 double,
draw it up. By repeating the last bar and loop any number
of times, and doing the same on the opposite side, this pat-
tern may be made of any desired depth.
Bar.

3 double.
3d Loop.

5 double, join to the picot of the last loop, 14

double, picot, 4 double. Draw it up.
Bar.

3 double.
4th Loop (at the point).4 double, join, 16 double, picot,
4 double. Draw it up.
Bar.

3 double.
162 TRIMMING IX TATTING.
5 th Loop.Like the 3d.
Bar.

3 double.
6th Loop.

5 double, join to the picot, 7 double, picot,

7
double, picot, 5 double. Draw it up.
Bar.

5 double, pass the needle through the opposite

picot, 5 double.
7th Loop.Like the 6th.
Bar.

5 double, pass the needle through the picot on the

corresponding bar, 6 double, join on the picot at the side of
the 7th loop, 5 double. This 5 double makes half the long
bar seen between every two patterns.
In the subsequent patterns, you join the first and second
loops, at the point, to the seventh and sixth of the last.
By omitting the loops 2 and
6,
and the bars belonging to
them, you can reduce this pattern ; and it will be of a suit-
able width for trimming chemise yokes, and many other
articles of domestic use.
MATERIALS
Applique Cloth.(See Applique instructions!)
BEADS.
There are various kinds of beads, the principal distinction
being that some are made in glass and others in metal. In
glass beads we have Bohemian, or O. P. ; Pound, Seed, and
Fancy.
Bohemian, or O. P. Beads, are the large ones used princi-
pally for vases, baskets, mats and table-covers. They are
from one-fourth to one-third of an inch long, and the common
sorts have very rough and jagged edges. They are strong
and large ; and when used for mats, trimmings, etc., are
woven together, without any foundation of canvas, or any
other material. There are two varieties : the clear or tran-
sparent and those technically known as
filled.
These look as
if they were painted on the inside ; and they are more ex-
pensive than the others. Each bunch should be about nine
inches long and have twelve strings of beads. The points to
notice in purchasing them are1st. That there should be
the proper number of strings and no admixture of beads on
them (for it is by no means uncommon to find two or three
sorts strung together) ; and 2d. That they appear tolerably
regular in size. There are two or three sizes sold ; and, of
course, a bunch of small beads will be shorter than one of
1G3
164 POUND BEADS.
large, although the same quantity may be in each. What I
do object to is, to finding various sizes in one bunch. The
colors are three whites, clear, opal or milk-white, and filled
;
three or four dark greens, and as many light, which latter are
nearly always filled ; several shades of amber, three or four
purples, sometimes one or two light blues ; lavender, drab or
fawn, and pink, all filled
;
yellows, filled ; reds, from garnet
and ruby to pink, clear ; and shades of vermilion, filled
;
black, and a few odd shades which sometimes can, and oflener
cannot, be procured. I never have been able to learn the
origin of the name O. P. given to these beads ; but it is that
by which they are commonly known. They are made in
Bohemia.
Pound Beads.These are the smaller glass beads used
for working on canvas, and forming the beautiful scrolls,
flowers and other designs we so frequently see in sofa-
cushions, etc. There are three leading sizes : No.
1,
the
largest; No.
2,
medium; and No.
3,
which are not much
larger than seed beads. For the last three years, these
beads have been so much employed in England, that, ac-
cording to the well-known maxim of political economy, that
demand will create a supply, almost infinite varieties have
been imported. This will, no doubt, be the case in America
also, when their uses and value are better known. In Eng-
land they are bought by the poundhence their name of
pound beadsa bunch weighing from one to three pounds.
No.
3,
however, is obtainable in smaller bunches. The colors
that ought to be procurable are four whites, chalk, alabaster,
opal, clear ; three or four ruby, as many imperial and tur-
quoise blue, two or three chalk blue, two or three coral
;
several shades of yellow and bronze, greys, fawns and drabs,
in great variety ; emerald, yellow and olive-green, three or
four each, at least ; an equal number of pink and puce, (or
violet;) apricot, and other odd tints (I mean such as have
165
only one of the kind), and blackin short, such a variety,
that any Berlin pattern can be worked in them without using
any other material.
Seed Beads are of the same kind, but very small, and a
still greater variety of them are made. I have myself had
upwards of three hundred shades of these tiny beads in my
possession; but even a sixth part of the number, well selected,
would avail for almost any ordinary purpose. These and the
pound beads are manufactured in Venice.
Of Fancy Beads we have an infinite variety
;
but there is
a fashion in them, so that like other fashions, some disappear
altogether after a brief popularity. Those which are intended
to imitate gold, silver, steel, or bronze, will probably remain
permanently among us. Those imitating coral, also, may
continue fashionable. They are very brittle, being merely
very thin glass, with wax colored with vermilion inside.
The pretty sequi?is, flat, round beads, so much used at one
time for dresses, are now not to be procured at all, having,
like others, died a natural death and been replaced by newer,
not prettier, styles.
Bugles, although, strictly speaking, only fancy beads, are
of sufficient importance to merit a paragraph to themselves.
They are tubes of various circumference and length, in black,
white, steel color, green, purple and red. The four last are
comparatively rare. Black and white are common enough,
but differ much in quality. Some are so badly sorted that
you get several sizes in one packet ; the color of the white
is also frequently bad, being of yellow, instead of bluish-
white. Avoid purchasing them too fine, as many have the
bore so slender that a bead-needle only can penetrate it;
and the thread such a needle carries will not be strong
enough for their weight. Short bugles are used in canvas-
work, square crochet patterns being employed. The pattern
i- done in bugles, a bead to a stitch
;
the ground is filoselle silk.
166 METAL BEADSBERLIN PATTERNS.
Metal Beads are gold, cut or round
;
"
Silver do.
;
"
Steel, and burnt or blue steel, cut.
They are bought in small bunches of twelve strings each.
The size is determined by the number, which is from 1 (the
smallest) to 12
;
but from 4 to 8 or 9 only are generally pro-
curable. The price also varies with the size, 10, 11 and 12
being each dearer than the preceding, on a rapidly increasing
scale. In general, the uncut (round) ones are superior in
quality to the cut beads.
Berlin Patterns.There is a great difference in the
quality of these patterns, and some skill is required in select-
ing such as are needed for your work. The sizes and prices
are according to numbers, marked on every sheet, from No.
to No. 20,
or even higher. Many of the larger pieces are
copies, more or less accurate, from the great masters of paint-
ing, and some are beautifully executed. There is a lovely
design of this class called
"
The Fishers," a boy fishing and
a tiny girl, full of fun, leaning over his shoulder. The bright,
childish faces, the trees, the rippling water, combine to form
a charming subject.
In purchasing patterns, take care that the canvas is suita-
ble to them. By referring to the article on canvas, you will
see the various sizes, and perceive that it would not do to
choose a very large pattern for coarse canvas, while the pat-
tern that would look rich and handsome in No. 20 canvas,
would be a- miserably huddled affair in No. 50. When a
Berlin pattern has strongly contrasting shades and colors, or
many small extraneous objects, such as straggling branches,
tendrils, etc., it is not fit for working on a much larger scale
;
but if painted in medium tints, and simple designs, the effect
is not injured.
Patterns for railway canvas never ought to have more
than sixty-five stitches in the width.
SILK, PLAIN RUSSIAN AND ALLIANCE BRAIDS. 167
O. P. Berlin Patterns may be known by the squares
not being under each other, as in crochet and ordinary
designs, but each square being half under one, half under
another. Also that they are oblong, not true squares.
BRAIDS.
Silk.A great variety of silk braids is always procurable
;
and novelties are constantly being made. The leading
sorts are :
Plain Russian Braid.The term JRnssia is applied here
to the plait of the silk forming the braid. There are two
plaits commonly used, the Russian and the French. The
French is that in which hair is usually woven, in a number of
strands, each one of which is passed alternately over and under
the others. For some reason, French silk braid never looks
very glossy ; and, indeed, it is rarely to be obtained. The
Russian is that plaited in what, in hair, is termed the Grecian
plait, the outer strand from each side being taken alternately
and folded over to the middle. In this, as in almost every
other article, there is a great difference of quality. Good
braid should look close, and feel firm. The edges should be
even, and the texture glossy. Again, there is a vast varia-
tion in quantity. Some pieces have eighteen yards, or there-
abouts
;
others, not more than nine or ten. The price of a
knot is, therefore, no test of its cheapness, even as to quan-
tity
;
and I may remark that the best braid always contains
the longest lengths in the knot.
Alliance Braid is a variety of Russian, but one half is of
one color, one half of another. Almost all have one half of
maize, or some shade of yellow, the other being blue,
168 GOLD, SILVER AND COTTON BRAIDS.
green, cerise, crimson, or scarlet. (See Braiding Instruc-
tions.)
Star Braid is plaited so that the edges are serrated. It
is more expensive than Russian, but very pretty and durable.
Eugenie Braid is crimped ; or, at least, it looks as if it
Were so. It is not, therefore, very firm
;
but pretty *for some
purposes, and not expensive.
Sardinian Braid is a fancy article, woven in three colors
;
more fantastic, I think, than pretty.
Albert Braid is, in fact, a fine round cord, classed
among the braids, because used for the same purpose. It is
very effective for many purposes, especially when two con-
trasting colors are laid side by side, as orange and blue, on
black cloth. It is sewed over, not through.
Broad Silk Braids, if really good and well made, are
very beautiful for braiding aprons. They are, however,
somewhat expensive, and not always obtainable.
Soutache.This is, properly, the ordinary French name
for braid ; but in English books on needlework, is applied
especially to fancy Parisian braids, of every pattern and com-
bination of colors and materials. These soutaches are sold
in pieces of about thirteen yards each.
Gold and Silver Braid.These are, of course, not made
by any means of pure metal ; but they look very rich and
handsome for many sorts of braiding. The French plait is
always
preferable to the Russian for metal braids ; and the
Parisian, of the best quality, is much more durable than any
other, as well as more easily worked. It is made in various
widths.
Cotton Braids. French White Cotton.If goodfine,
even, and closely woven, in French plait. Sold in small
knots, or packets containing twelve. The width is deter-
mined by the number, from 1 (very narrow) to 14. Used
especially for modern point, or lacet-work.
BOURDON BULLION CANNETILLE. 169
Russia Cotton.A thick cotton braid, in Russian plait
;
employed chiefly for children's white dresses.
Waved Braid.A braid, in various widths, scalloped or
waved at both edges.
Eugenie Tape, or Braid, is a thick, firm, waved braid.
Linen Braids are useful for some purposes, but the plait
wants firmness, for which reason they are not so good as the
cotton for fancy-work, except for imitation Maltese lace.
Cotton Alliance Braid is cotton in half the width, and
colored worsted in the other. It is used for braiding anti-
macassars, and other household articles, and for such pur-
poses is very pretty.
Worsted Braid is of various widths. The narrow is
always Russian. It washes well.
Mohair Braid is a fine, French silk braid, used for
making watch-guards, in imitation of hair, and is always of
some shade nearly resembling it.
Bourdon.A Parisian cord, so covered with gold or sil-
ver tissue as to resemble it. It is used in crochet, silks of
various colors being worked over it, so that the bourdon is
seen glittering between the stitches
;
it has, of course, a most
brilliant appearance. Baskets, reticules, and many articles
are made with bourdon for a foundation, as it is strong and
firm
;
but it tarnishes very easily. Sold by the yard.
Bullion.Used in gold embroidery. It is a very fine
tubing of gold, or rather of gilt wire, bright or dead. When
used, it is cut in short lengths, and the needle run through
them. It is of two qualities, fine and ordinary. Sold by the
ounce.
Cannettlle.A very fine wire, covered with white or
green cotton, used for crochet flowers.
6
170 FRENCH, ENGLISH AND GERMAN CANYAS.
CANVAS.
French Cotton Canvas.This is the kind generally im-
ported by the leading Berlin houses, and is used where the
ground as well as the space for the pattern is intended to be
covered. It is of two kinds : that in which the threads are
at equal distances, which is called common canvas
/
and the
sort termed Penelope, having the threads in pairs, just as it
would have were a piece of work in cross-stitch to be picked
out often, as we are told was done by the mother of Tele-
machus. Hence, no doubt, the name by which this canvas
is known. For all work in cross-stitch, this will be found
easier for the eyes than the other; but it cannot be employed
for tent, tapestry, or any fancy-stitch, excepting where beads
only are used. French canvas is made of various widths.
The narrow ones, termed border canvas, vary from seven to
eighteen inches. The ordinary width is twenty-six inches
;
and it may be obtained of nearly two yards wide. Its fine-
ness is determined by the number of threads to the inch
;
and the various sizes are distinguished by numbers. I sub-
join a scale of the leading varieties:
No. )
8. 1_0 1_2 1_4 1_6 18. 1
20 2 2 24 3..0 4..0 5
Stitchea to inch.
) 5 6 1 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 13"
This scale applies equally to both kinds of canvas.
English Canvas is an imitation of French, but very in-
ferior, and numbered from No. 20 (extremely coarse) to No.
GO.
German Canvas has every tenth thread of a different
color from the rest. This is some assistance to the eye ; but
the canvas is of so inferior a quality, the warp and the woof
not being at equal distances, that it should never be chosen
for
any elaborate work. Avoid it especially for wreaths and
MOSAIC AND JAVA CANVAS TO SELECT CANVAS. 171
figure pieces, which it will inevitably distort into all sorts of
unnatural forms.
Silk Canvas is generally either white or black. It is used
for designs that do not require to be grounded. There are
not many sizes of it procurable.
Imitation Silk Canvas.From the great expense of
genuine silk canvas, the imitation is much used for sofa
cushions and other large articles. When new, it looks nearly
as well as the richer article, and it admits of being after-
wards grounded. There are not many sizes made.
Bkace Canvas is of the proper width for gentlemen's
braces or suspenders. It is white or black. The former has
sometimes a colored edge woven in, which is very pretty.
It is always of silk.
Railway Canvas is a coarse and inexpensive fabric, much
used for banner screens, anti-macassars and sofa cushions.
Claret, brown and drab are its usual colors. There is a
variety manufactured on purpose for orne wool embroidery
work, tinted of a pale sage green, and with colored threads
at intervals, expressly for those designs.
Mosaic Canvas.An exceedingly fine canvas, used for
seed bead-work. It is the sort seen in cigar cases and simi-
lar articles.
Java Canvas is a woven material, very unlike the other
substances from which it takes its name. The threads are in
pairs, and there are no holes between them. It is variously
colored and of different degrees of fineness. Used to be
employed for rugs, and such large articles.
Woollen canvas, brown thread canvas, and various other
kinds, have been introduced from time to time; but I have
enumerated all that are now employed.
To Select Canvas.Hold it over something of a contrast-
ing color, to see if there be any knots or blemishes, which
are often of great importance, especially in silk canvas. Ex-
amine, also, if the threads be even, and the meshes, or holes,
1 72 CHENILLE CLOTH-WOKK.
square. The threads should be round and firm, and the
edges stout and good.
Always keep canvas rolled up and covered with paper to
preserve it from being soiled.
You use No. 3 beads with No. 22 canvas ; No. 2 beads
with Nos. 19 or 20 canvas; No. 1 beads with No. 18
canvas.
It is to be understood whenever the number of any canvas
is given, that French canvas, as being the best, is intended.
English and German canvas differ from it very essentially in
the numbering.
Chexille.One of the most beautiful materials used in
fancy-work. When good, it presents the appearance of a
roll, more or less fine, of the best velvet, the surface being
smooth, even and close. In inferior chenille the j:>ile is more
open, and you can see the separate hairs or filaments. It is
made in various sizes. The finest, termed embroidery che-
nille, is used much in working on cloth, velvet, and such
materials. Then there are gradations of size from that to
the rolio chenille, which is as thick as a lady's finger. These
medium sizes are termed ordinary chenille.
Sometimes chenille contains a fine wire, which enables the
worker to bend it into form for leaves, flowers, etc. This
variety is called Wire Chenille. It is made in all the sizes.
Chenille is sold by the piece, with the exception of the rolio,
which may be obtained by the yard.
Cloth-work.This term comprises every article made in
cloth, which is ornamented with braiding or embroidery,
chiefly the former. The design is marked on the cloth and
then worked. Some time ago, slippers, cushions, mats, pen-
wipers, and an infinite variety of fancy articles were made
thus, the cloth being purchased ready stamped at the Berlin
shop. But since the introduction of the Imperial Applique,
(see Applique^) which is so much more effective and not
much more expensive, plain cloth is rarely used.
COEDS AND COTTONS. 173
CORDS.
Ceochet Coed resembles that used for window-blinds, but
made of white cotton. It is of various sizes and sold by the
yard. Used for the centres of mats, etc.
Fancy Silk Coeds are made in various patterns, some-
times having chenille or gold thread intermixed. Used for
sola cushions, bags, etc.
Crystal Twine.A fine colored twine, with gold or sil-
ver foil wound round it. It is very pretty, but tarnishes
easily. Some is entirely covered with gold or silver, and is
then known as gold or silver twine. Sold in small balls.
Ceochet Twine.A fine colored twine, used in crochet-
ing over satin cord, or for other purposes. Very durable.
Sold in balls.
COTTONS.
I will preface my detailed description of the varieties of
cotton in general use for needlework by a few remarks on
the different manufactures of this article which, I trust, will
not be quite uninteresting to my readers. They will find in
every pattern of mine, in which cotton, of any sort, forms
one of the materials, that I name that of Messrs. Walter
Evans & Co., of Derby, England, as that intended to be
used. A little reflection will show the necessity for select-
ing the manufacture of some one firm for my designs. Each
maker has his own mode of distinsruishinG: the sizes of
his thread. Some number them from 1 upwards, using
every number
;
others take numbers at intervals, as
2, 4, 8,
10, 12, 16, 20
;
others, again, employ the letters of the
alphabet. Now, in giving a pattern of any article, which it
174 COTTONS.
is desirable for my readers to reproduce
of
the same size as
the original, it was obviously necessary to name the cotton
I had myself employed ; it was not sufficient to say cotton
No. so-and-so
;
since the No. 4 of one maker would be
No. 20 of some one else, and, perhaps, No. 100 of a third
firm. Nor is there less variation in the qualities of the cot-
ton. I need not remind Americans that some varieties of
raw cotton are infinitely superior to others ; and that it must
make all the difference possible whether the best or the worst
has been used for that which they are working. Again, in
the process of manufacture, a perceptible difference arises; one
firm possessing, perhaps, a much greater amount of skill, as
well as capital, than another, to say nothing of trade secrets,
by which they can achieve a marked superiority. It was
requisite, therefore, to select the manufactures of some one
house, whose character for excellence would justify the pro-
minence I should give it. This position I have accorded to
the manufactures of Messrs. W. Evans & Co. Having used
their Boar's Head Cotton exclusively, in my own work, for
years before I became occupied in fancy-work designs for the
public, I naturally felt some preference for them ; and find-
ing that, after a very careful trial of all the leading cottons,
I still liked the Boar's Head the best, both during the pro-
cess of using it, and after its quality and color had been
tested by washing and wearing, I have, up to the present
time, employed no other
;
and I may venture to say that the
care and pains bestowed by Messrs. W.
Evans and Co., on
the production of any new material required by the changing
tastes of the day, and the unvarying excellence of the origi-
nal cottons, have justified me to the world in giving the
sanction and pledge of my name and recommendation to
their manufactures. They have been used exclusively
in
The Lady's Library, and all the English periodicals, the
names
of which will be found on the title-page of this book,
TATTIXG COTTON. 175
nil of which have been, as many still are, under my direction.
In the magazines of America, the name of the cotton manu-
facturers has sometimes been omitted, probably from a mis-
taken idea of advertising, combined with ignorance of the
importance of designating the maker, without which the
mere nmnber is of no use ; or, indeed, of less than none,
since it is likely to misguide the worker. In all such cases,
the name of Messrs. Walter Evans &
Co. will supply the deficiency, being
the one originally used. The label
on these spools exhibits the family
crest of the manufacturers ; and I add
afac
simile of it, to secure my friends
from imposition. The principal va-
rieties of cotton I employ, are
The Boar's Head Crochet and Sewing Cotton.This
is numbered from 1 to 150
;
the last-mentioned being very
fine. This cotton has a clean, white, even appearance,
and a clear, regular twist. It is not glazed. The spools, it
will be observed, are rounded at one end, and bear the
label already referred to. All crochet should be done in
this cotton
;
I also prefer it for hand-sewing. It is sold on
spools. For crochet, Nos. 8, 10, 12, 16,
and
20,
are most
used. For sewing machines, it is the best extant, and wound
appropriately.
Evans' Royal Glace Thread.This is peculiarly adapted
to linen-work. It is both white and colored. It is well
adapted, also, to hand sewing. Nos.
16, 20, 24, 36,
and
50,
are much employed.
Royal Embroidery and French Embroidery Cotton.
Used for all kinds of embroidery on muslin or linen. The
rizea vary from Xo.
4,
very coarse, to No. 100. No. 8 is
used for broderie d la minute, as it is sufficiently coarse to
make a spot at every stitch.
176 COLORED EMBROIDERY COTTON.
Tatting Cotton.There are three sizes, Nos.
1, 2,
and
3,
made on purpose for tatting, and combining strength and
softness. All fine tatting should be done hi this.
Knitting Cotton.Soft and of a pure color. Made in
various sizes. Nos. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12,
and
16,
are the most
used. Also especially adapted for darning.
Moravian Cotton is a soft, untwisted cotton, used for
tracing, satin-stitch and point lace, as well as other purposes.
Mecklenburg Thread.A strong and glossy linen thread,
much used in point-lace
;
also for knitting and crochet.
Beading Cotton.Employed in working the O. P. Beads.
Some sizes are also admirable for coarse tatting, for little
boys' dresses, etc. ISTos.
00, 000, 0000, 00000, of which
Nos.
00, 000, are most used.
All these have on their label the Boar's Head, which is the
crest of the manufacturers, as well as their name and address.
Colored Embroidery Cotton.Scarlet, rose, and black.
There are other colors made, but I have not found any
except the three above mentioned which really wash well.
I append a table of the sizes of cotton which should be
used to produce a pattern of any dimensions you desire.
Cotton. Hook.
Stitches per
inch.
Squares per
inch.
No. 1 15 10 3
2

12 4
4

14
4
8 18 15 5
12

17 6
1
14

19
H
16 20 20
6i
20

22
1i
24 21 24 8
30

26 8 V
36 24 28 9}
40

30 10
In higher
numbers the increase is proportionate, it being
understood, of course, that a suitable hook is used. No. ] 2
POUND BEAD FKINGES.
177
hook is used only for wool, twine and such matters. By the
aid of the above table, you may adopt any crochet pattern
to any size you please. If, for instance, you have a pattern
in square crochet, of eighty squares, and you wish it to be
ten inches wide, you will see you must use No. 24 cotton.
In No. 2 cotton, it would be twenty inches wide.
I have calculated for somewhat close work. Those who
crochet loosely must make a little allowance.
Charles Carville, 166 Fulton street, is the American agent
for the cottons of this celebrated house.
FRINGES.
My
readers need not be told that fringe is made in almost
every sort of material. Those in beads and in silks are, how-
ever, the kinds principally used in fancy-work.
O. P. Bead FfvIXGes are very much employed for the
trimming of lambrequins, O. P. bead mats, table-covers, lamp
ornaments ; and, in short, almost everything which is itself
composed of the same sort of beads. Very strong Mecklen-
burg thread (No.
1),
or beading cotton, well waxed, is pro-
per for threading them ; and they are either plainly done in
loops, the colors of the beads being carefully selected to
harmonize with those of the work, or they are woven and
decorated here and there with short loops laid on the surface.
To do this, it is merely necessary to thread three or four
beads at regular intervals, and then put the needle in the
same bead as you would have done had no loop been there.
Iu whichever
way these trimmings are made, they are usually
graduated in depth.
Pound Bead FpvInges are used with excellent effect for
many purposes, especially for trimming tables, the tops of
*S
178 SILK FRINGES.
which are done in beads on canvas. As the description of
the mode of doing one article will serve as a guide for any
others, I will give particular directions for the very popular
article. Suppose the work be in shades of white and bronze
(flowers and leaves), with a blue ground. Procure beads to
match, but of a larger size, if the work be done in one of the
usual sizes, 2 or 3. Take a piece of strong tape and measure
the edge of the table round ; divide this tape into four, five,
or more parts, and so arrange the pattern that one may fill
each, the tape being the foundation of the fringe. Fasten
your thread on the tape, and thread say three inches of the
darkest bronze
;
sew on to the tape to form a loop. Almost
close to it, thread an equal length of the next shade, but
when making it into a loop twine it two or three times round
the last half of the last. Treat every successive loop so. If
you take each shade of bronze, from darkest to lightest,
and then to darkest again; then a few loops of blue ; then the
shades of white, then blue again, it will loop well. If you
have greys in your white shades, take them for the centre,
and the whites or lightest shades next the blue. The tape
is afterwards sewed or nailed on the article to be trimmed.
Black or white bead fringes may be made by the aid of
bugles. The beads should be of two sizes. Thread x 1
large, 1 small, 1 bugle, 1 small bead, x repeat for the depth,
making the end of a few small ones. Work back to the
heading of the fringe the same, but every alternate large
bead instead of a fresh one, slip your needle through that of
the first half. Take the next loop a little way off, and con-
nect it with this by slipping through the large bead. This,
if done on a ribbon, makes an extremely pretty bead
collar.
Silk Fringes are either of sewing silk or bullion. Bullion
fringe is hard, and has every loop closely twisted. Sewing
silk fringes have the threads loose from the heading. They
OUNJS FRINGE GIMPGAUGE. 179
are often crimped. The price depends no less on the close-
ness of the silk than on its depth.
Orne Fringe(See Orne
fringe
balls).
Gimp.A sort of stiff lace edge made of fine silk cord.
Used for various purposes in fancy-work, but no way differ-
ing in texture from that employed in trimming dresses. Al-
ways made to match the work.
PATENTED
O
5
o
6
o
Gauge.This is a little implement for measuring the sizes
of knitting and crochet needles. I give a fac-simile of the
bell gauge, which is, I think, the best of any. It is made of
plated, or electrotyped metal, and each hole is numbered.
From the material employed, the bell gauge is not liable to
get worn or injured, which some other varieties have done.
A knitting-needle is of a certain measurement when it will
pass completely through a hole ; not when an inch or so of
180 MUSLINS NEEDLES.
the point merely will enter. In measuring crochet hooks,
the barb should go easily through the hole. We use the
gauge for measuring round netting meshes, also, in the same
way as knitting-needles, from which they do not differ in any
respect.
Knitting Implements(See Needles).
Liteaux.
Wire, coarser than cannetille, but still very
line, and covered with cotton or silk bound round it.
Muslins.It may be useful to indicate the muslins em-
ployed in various sorts of fancy-work. For the bold, rich
designs in broderie Anglaise, which are used for trimming
skirts and other articles of ladies' under linen, it is usual to
choose a line long-cloth ; the same material, in fact, of which
chemises and such things are usually made. If you desire
anything not quite so solid for the same purposes, good jaco-
net may be employed.
For collars, sleeves and cuffs, French muslin or line nan-
sook is the appropriate material, except for broderie d la
poste, or d la minute, for which jaconet is better, as firmer
and stronger. For Swiss lace and applique-work in general,
unless the design be extremely delicate, widow's lawn, a kind
of close but clear muslin, gives much the best effect. I use
French cambric, however, for infants' caps, or handkerchiefs.
And I may observe, d propos of handkerchiefs, that to waste
time and eyesight in embroidering them on anything what-
ever except good cambric, is one of the most foolishly ex-
travagant acts of which a woman can be guilty.
NEEDLES.
A good work-woman, it is said, can dispense with
good
tools ; but I can see no reason for the infliction of bad ones
;
and certain I am that no one is so utterly annoyed and dis-
CROCHET HOOKS KNITTING. NEEDLES ELLIPTICS. 181
gusted with bad implements as she who knows what they
ought to be. In crochet and knitting-needles, more perhaps
than in any other sort, is the difference between bad and
good perceptible. A crochet needle should have the ex-
treme point
fine,
especially in the higher numbers, but
rounded and perfectly smooth, without the slighest approach
to a sharp point. Even the barb should feel smooth to the
finger. Common crochet hooks tear the fingers miserably,
cut the silk or thread, and destroy the appearance of the
work. Bad knitting-needles may also be classed among the
minor miseries of life, especially to those who are fond
of that pretty work. They are either blunt, or have a
squat and very sharp point. A good knitting-needle tapers
gradually, for perhaps the eighth of an inch, and the point,
although fine, is not at all sharp. Sewing-needles have
an equal difference of form, and also of wear. I have never
been able, myself, to use any manufacture but those of
Messrs. Boulton & Son, of Redditch, England ; and it is
certainly not too much to say that I should recognize their
knitting or crochet-needles in the dark, by mere touch.
The principal varieties are,
Crochet Hooks, No. 12 to 24, inclusive.
12, 15, 18, 21,
24, make a good useful set ; sufficient for any one.
Knitting Needles are from 12 to 26, and made short or
long. The short are by far the most convenient for small
articles. They also answer as netting meshes. When
coarser knitting needles are required, you use bone, ivory,
or wood, as the metal ones are too heavy to be pleasant in
the hand. Steel knitting-needles are made even coarser,
but for the reason already given, I do not recommend their
use.
Elliptics are sewing-needles, with egg-shaped eyes, very
easy to thread, and particularly adapted for muslin-work.
Many ladies also find them very excellent for sewing.
1 82 E0BBINET.
Rug Needles have long eyes and blunt points ; used for
canvas work.
Tapestey Needles, or short-long eyes, have eyes like
those of rug needles, but sharp points. Used for embroi-
dery on cloth, satin, etc.
Sewing-needles are used from No. 1 to No. 16,
which
last is very fine indeed. I employ the fine sizes in prefer-
ence to regular beading-needles, as the eyes of the latter are
too small to hold strong thread or silk.
Netting-needles are of various sizes, and when very
large should be made of wood or ivory.
Beading-needles are extremely long and thin. Made
in various sizes. All those I have mentioned are made by
Boulton & Son.
Bone, ivory, and wooden needles are made of various
sizes and lengths. When sold in pairs each one has a knob
at one end. The bone needles are apt to have roughnesses,
which injure the material ; it is proper therefore to examine
them carefully before using. Long No. 12 are always used
for Orne knitting. Bone crochet hooks are sometimes used
NET.
This is an article so much used in muslin, and other
fancy-work that it may be well to mention the principal vari-
eties.
Brussels is the sort used in Swiss lace
;
it is soft,
without dress, and has somewhat large diamond-shaped holes.
Bobbotet, employed for Tapisserie d'Auxerre, and other
lace-work,
is stiffer, but the best kinds are not very stifF.
It Ls necessary to see that the holes are hexagonal (which is
not always
the case), as no other sort will allow of pretty
designs being
darned on it.
ORNE FRINGE BALLS PASSEMENTERIE. 183
Filet is, as its name implies, an imitation of hand-netting,
which it exactly resembles. It is both black and white ; and
is made hi various degrees of fineness. It is very wide, and
must be cut bias when intended to imitate square-netting.
The black is much used for darning designs hi colored silks,
for cushions, mats, and other articles. The white is some-
times employed for applique work, to which purpose, how-
ever, it is hardly well adapted.
Guipure net, is a very open fabric, somewhat like guip-
ure bars. It is therefore used in collars and sleeves for ap-
plique work : but it is a very poor imitation of the worked
buttonhole-stitch.
Oene BallsAre balls of wool so dyed that each one,
if properly worked, produces a cushion, anti-macassar, or
other article, in one perfect design. They are of three kinds
for crochet, knitting, and embroidery, for which full in-
structions are given.
Orne Fringe Balls, are similar balls, dyed expressly
for fiinges. On unwinding one, a small white space appears
every few inches on the fabric. You cut it in lengths, at
this place, and then folding each length evenly hi the mid-
dle, and laying the pieces in regular order, you crochet
them into any crochet edging already made. Never cut
more than four or six lengths at a time, and crochet them
in
;
as, if they get displaced, the effect is destroyed, the
wool being dyed to form certain patterns.
Passementerie.Although gimps, cords, and fancy tas-
sels of every description, go under the general name of pas-
sementerie, the term is especially applied to the beautiful
and other articles made in Paris, of variously colored
silks and gold thread, woven in an infinity of designs over
wooden moulds. Screen and fan handles, entirely so
covered, and decorated with tassels to correspond, are
anions the most elaborate of these articles; tassels for
184 PERFORATED CARDBOARD PIQUE POINT PAPER.
smoking-caps, bags, purses, and dress ornaments, are very
usually found. They are always made to correspond pre-
cisely, in color, with the work they are intended to com-
plete
;
and when the tassels of a purse are in passementerie,
the rings are of the same.
Penwiper Ornaments, or buttons, as they are sometimes
called, are gilded and enamelled ornaments, about an inch
high, with a small flat-headed screw fitting into them. The
head of Punch, birds and animals, flags, and other devices
may be obtained. The screw goes through the leather
round of the bottom of the penwiper, then through the
linen or chamois pieces on which the pen is to be wiped, and
finally through the upper part, where it is screwed into the
ornament. Thus you may at any time renew the linen, which,
of course, soon gets soiled.
Perforated Cardboard, is cardboard with minute holes
at regular distances throughout it. It is of various degrees
of fineness, and sold in sheets. There are also perforated
cards, for book-markers, sides of a basket, and other uses, of
which the border is more or less wide and often ornamented.
Designs for mottoes for these book-markers, religious, affec-
tionate, or friendly, are also obtainable.
Pique, or diamond-pattern marcella, is used for braiding
and embroidery.
Point Paper is often called checked paper, and is covered
with lines at regular distances diagonally and horizontally.
It is sold in sheets of about the size of foolscap paper. The
size of the squares differs very much, ten not occupying more
than half an inch in some sheets, while four go to the inch in
others. Hence, its great use to those who do much fancy-
work, since it often happens that a design is engraved on so
small a scale in a magazine, that though you can judge of
the effect, you cannot work it without trying your eyes. It
is not only less troublesome but much more satisfactory to
POUNCED PATTERNS RINGS. 185
copy it first on point paper of a larger size, which may be
easily done. Even an embroidery design may be thus en-
larged, for if traced on a sheet of fine paper, it requires but
trifling artistic skill to copy it on the larger sheets, square
for square. Names and mottoes for book-markers may also
be drawn on it, by the aid of the crochet alphabet, before
you begin to work them.
Pounced Patterns are the patterns prepared for marking
an embroidery design on cloth, velvet, satin or muslin. Being
drawn in outline on thin paper, it is pricked evenly and at
equal distances throughout with a coarse needle. If the
design be in halves, quarters, or any other number of parts,
of which one is an exact copy of the rest, fold the paper very
evenly so many times and prick through all the folds at once.
The only care necessary to take here is to be sure that the
folds are even. If, on opening the paper, you perceive any
defect, you must do another, it being impossible to remedy
it. Bank post paper is the sort used for pounced patterns.
To use them, lay the paper over the material to be marked,
ascertaining that both are very even. Keep them in their
places by means of weights. Finely ground pumicestone
(slightly colored with powdered charcoal, if the material be
white) is then rubbed over, and on removing the paper the
pattern will be seen on the material. If, however, it seems
likely to rub off, it may be again outlined with a sable brush
and a solution of flake white or Indian ink. But in marking
muslin work, rub over some powder blue, and iron it over
the paper briskly. Muslin-work is always, however, much
Letter marked by those whose business it is to do it.
Rings made of steel, of various sizes, are much used in
crochet. Sold by the dozen or gross.
186 DACCA AND FLOSS SILKFILOSELLE.
SILKS.
Crochet Silk.A silk twisted like sewing thread, and of
various sizes. Nos.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
are most common. No. 1
is the coarsest. The coarser the silk, the more expensive it
is, so that No. 1 will cost at least twice as much, in buying
by the skein, as No. 5. By the pound, there is no difference.
The color of silks also influences the price. Plain colors are
of one price, ingrain of another, and every shade of scarlet is
still more expensive. Some retail houses equalize all these
prices; but in that case the purchaser pays more than he
would elsewhere for the ordinary colors. Pearsall's silks,
which always have a label with their name on every skein,
hold deservedly the highest place among those who under-
stand how to select silks.
Netting Silk.Real netting silk is not so hard twisted
as that made for crochet ; but very many people employ the
latter only, not aware of any distinction between them.
Soie d'Avignon is a very fine and delicate variety of nett-
ing silk, sold on reels ; and used for those very fragile and
exquisite fabrics termed fairy purses.
Dacca Silk is sold in rather long skeins ; and is used for
embroidery. It is moderately twisted, not altogether un-
twisted like floss, which otherwise it much resembles.
Floss Silk is a beautiful and most glossy preparation of
silk, used in Berlin-work. It is susceptible of the most deli-
cate and brilliant dyes, and is sold in short, twisted skeins.
Filoselle.Is not a pure silk, but being very glossy
and beautiful, is used in the coarser kinds of Berlin-work,
being nearly equal in thickness to eight-thread Berlin wool.
Each
skein weighs about a quarter of an ounce. In no va-
riety of this be:ui(iful material is there a greater difference
of quality than
in filoselle. Some is hardly richer looking
TABOUEET TOILE CIEEETEACIXG PAPER. 187
than cotton ; Pearsall's is hardly less brilliant than their
floss.
Chixa Silk is sold on very small reels, each of which con-
tains but a few yards of silk. It is much employed for seed
bead-work and in braiding.
Sewixg Silk is bought in long skeins. It should be even
and glossy.
The terms ombre and chine are used for silks in the same
sense as for wools. The former means shaded in one color,
the latter in two or more.
The price of silk has of late years varied so much, that I
cannot name with any accuracy a reasonable rate for it.
Last year it was at least one-half dearer than it had been two
years before.
Skeleton Frames are frames of travelling and carriage
bags, having leather handles, sides and top, with neat steel
fastening ; the outer part is dark, strong calico ; the inner a
neat material, with pocket. They are covered with a piece
of braiding or embroidery.
Taboueet.A material of silk and wool, usually Avith al-
ternate stripes of satin and watering ; employed for the backs
of sofa cushions. Five-eighths of a yard wide. Sold by the
yard or square.
Toile Ciree is an oil-cloth, green on one side and black
on the other ; used to give substance to muslin-work while
in progress. The muslin is tacked over it, on the green side.
It greatly preserves the sight. Point lace is sometimes
worked on it. If good, it is thin and extremely pliant. The
commoner sorts are stiff and very disagreeable to work on.
Tracing Paper.Thin paper made transparent by oil.
Sold
by color-men. A little benzoin brushed over bank post-
paper answers better
;
but the scent is not agreeable.
188 EUGENIE AND MARQUISE BAGS PURSES.
TRIMMINGS.
I might fill a book with the various matters under this
head, but mean to confine myself to a simple list of such as
are required for the usual articles of fancy-work.
Sofa Cushions.Four silk tassels and a length of cord to
correspond, usually two and a half yards. There are always
new patterns coming out, but the Dresden, Grecian, and
Eugenie are among the prettiest. Usually sold in the set.
Smoking-Caps

Coed and Tassel.The tassel is either a

round flat button with deep fringe, or a tassel suspended by
a cord from a flat button.
Banner Screens.Five-eighths of rich fringe (not always
quite so much) ; two pairs of tassels, each pair connected by
one-fourth of a yard of cord ; three yards of thicker cord.
Hand Screens.Handles of passementerie, ivory, or gilded
wood, cord of two different kinds, and fringe (four inches
deep, at least,) to surround them ; or one cord with narrow
quilled satin ribbon.
Bags.Carriage bags require skeleton frame and cord to
cover the joining of the work to the leather gores at the
sides
;
usually one yard and a half.
Eugenie Bags, or those with silk tops and work below,
require fine silk cord for runnings, and coarse for handles, and
to cover the join of the silk and canvas.
Marquise Bags.The small Parisian things with clasps
require passementerie tassels.
Purses.Those of all silk should have passementerie tas-
sels. If short, a handsome tassel and a double cord run in
the top to draw it up like a bag ; or a steel, silver, or gilt
clasp. When steel or gilt beads are used in the purse, the
clasp and tassel should correspond. The same may be said
of long purses. The handsomest French purses always havo
EERLIN OK ZEEIIYR AXD SHADED WOOLS. 189
passementerie trimmings. The Germans have them in metal.
There is a peculiar sort of fastening for a short purse, consist-
ing of two steel or gilt bars connected by a chain, one of
which is sewed to each half of the purse top. A ring slips
over both and keeps the contents safely in the purse. A tas-
sel is sewed at the end. This trimming is termed a Diable
;
why, nobody can guess, unless it be that it would take that
celebrated person's skill to open the purse so fastened. The
chain serves to suspend it to the finger. Short purses some-
times have a fringe along the end ; and this is often used on
one end of a long purse, while the other has a tassel.
Tobacco Bags, or Blagues, have strings of fine silk cord
to draw them up, and a handsome tassel at the end.
"Whatnots require the same sort of tassels as sofa cushions,
with about four yards of silk cord and inch wide satin ribbon
to match.
Knitted Scaefs and Neckties should have a pair of che-
nille tassels and a ring.
WOOLS.
Berlin or Zephyr Wool.This is made in two sizes
only, with four and eight threads. The former is technically
known as single, the latter as double Berlin. Double Berlin
is procurable only in half-ounce skeins
;
but the single is sold
also in small skeins, of which about twenty-four go to an
ounce. When purchasing for knitting, therefore, it is pro-
per to mention that you want half-ounce skeins. Berlin avooI
is variously colored. First, there are plain colors, comprising
in a well assorted stock at least five hundred shades.
Shaded Wools, which have every skein shaded from the
darkest to the lightest, and then back again to the darkest,
190 WORSTED OR KNITTING TARN PATENT ORNE BALLS.
of one color. Some of these are exquisitely beautiful ; but
the blue is almost always dingy and dirty looking.
Ombre Wool is a similar wool, shaded in more colors than
one.
Pearl Wool has alternately every quarter of an inch in
white and some one color. Green and white, chocolate and
white, and some few other colors are very pretty. I have
seen a variety also in red, white and blue, which was very
nice for comforters. It is employed almost entirely for
knitting.
Crystal Wool, or Spangled Wool, is wool round which
narrow threads of gold or silver are entwined. It is very
effective for some purposes, but should never be employed
for any article that will require washing. I have seen child-
ren's knitted basques, in delicate colors, made partly in
this wool ; and, of course, the first washing would destroy
them.
Fleecy Wool.A coarser and less expensive material
than Berlin, though for many purposes it looks nearly as well.
The Avhite and black are made in every thickness from two
threads to twelve. The colors in two, four and eight only
are generally procurable. There are two qualities, super,
and common or ordinary. The super is almost as cheap as
the other, being finer and having a greater length in the
weight.
Angola Wool.Sold in half-pound packets, for knitting
children's socks.
Lamb's Wool is sometimes obtainable for the same pur-
pose.
Worsted, or Knitting Yarn, is a coarse, strong yarn,
much used in knitting.
Patent Orne Balls.These are manufactured for knitt-
ing and crochet. Each ball does one design, and is adapted
only for it. A crochet hall will not work out well for knitt-
SHETLAND AND PYRENEES WOOLS CEEWELS. 191
ing, nor a knitting one if done in crochet. An engraving of
the design and directions accompany each ball. Some years
ago, a Mr. Whytock, of Edinburgh, Scotland, brought out
an article of tins kind ; but it was very defective, and the
pattern rarely was properly developed. The new orne wools
leave nothing to be desired. The designs are bold, clear,
and most artistic
;
and the directions equally good. The
colors, too, from some peculiarity of the dye, get brighter
instead of dimmer from age, provided they are kept free
from dust.
Oene Fringe Balls are so woven and dyed that when
cut into lengths, they, form a rich and beautiful woollen
fringe, for knitted or crocheted orne work.
Shetland \Vool.A fine soft wool, used for veils, shawls,
and many other purposes. It is not usually to be had in any
great variety of shades ; but the scarlet and crimson are
beautiful.
Pveenees \Vool.Is a finer, softer, and more beautiful
wool than the Shetland
;
and the dye is, at once, the fastest
and most delicate of any. Visitors to Paris may get it at
several of the Berlin houses there
;
but it is not yet gene-
rally introduced into England or America.
Ckewels.Fine wools, done up in small, tightly-twisted
skeins
;
once very popular, but now but little known, being
superseded by the delicate fabrics of the Shetland Islands
and the Pyrenees.
END OF MATERIALS.
ON MAKING UP OF FANCY-WORK.
A few hints for the proper fitting up and completing the
most prominent articles will, I am persuaded, not be unwel-
come.
Note-cases, Portfolios, and similar things.Take
four pieces of cardboard of exactly the same size, for the
covers ; and for each pocket you wish to make, one very
slightly smaller. The four pieces are a little smaller than
the worked cover, so that the edges may turn in well. If
the book is to be rather thick, you cut out a strip of stout
board for the back ; or a piece of fine, thin whalebone will
be even better ; but this is not always needed. Cover the
pocket first, by cutting a piece of the lining silk, a little
more than double the width of the card to be covered
;
and
two and a half inches longer. Lay the card in, so that an
equal length of silk is left at each end, and stitch the ends
close to the card, running the silk also in the length, so that
the card is kept quite tight. You do not turn in the edges
of silk. Each pocket is done so. Now tack the worked
cover, all in one piece, over two of the four cards
;
and the
lining (also in one piece) over the other two
;
but if it is to
be thick, the whalebone must be put down the centre of the
cover, in a casing, between the two cards
; while an equal
space is left between them, in the lining. Before joining the
cover and lining, put the pockets to the latter, opening
1TC
SHAVING BOOKS SOFA CUSHIONS CARRIAGE BAGS. 193
inwards or outwards, as may be chosen. Run them
with
tacking thread in their places, the inch of silk left at each
end making the means of opening the pocket ; it is to be
folded in a neat plait under it, close to the raw edges of silk
in the length, but not at the other. Tack and then sew in
the lining (with the pockets thus added, and also with an
elastic along the centre, secured on the wrong side), to the
cover. If loops are to be left for a pencil to close it, make
two on one side, and one, between them, on the other, all
of folded silk, the ends being secured between lining and
cover. A neat silk cord, to match the work, is sewed
round, and covers all the seams.
Shaving Books, made of crochet, knitting, or braided
cloth or velvet, are made in the same way, but without
pockets. They are about the size of an octavo volume.
Pieces of soft linen, neatly hemmed, are fastened in by the
elastic
;
and it is intended that one should be withdrawn
every day, that the razor may be wiped on it.
Sofa Cushions.The cushion should not be too soft, or
much of the beauty of the work is lost. Cut a stout calico
lining, on the cross, and cover one side of each piece with
fine wadding ; of this make the bag and fill it with good
feathers. This is much the best way of making the pillow.
If the covering is in white silk canvas, it should be lined
with white satin. The back may be of tabouret, satin, or
velvet. Make the worked part and the back into a case, in
which slip the pillow. Finish with cord or gimp, and tassels.
Carriage Bags.The work should be one piece for both
sides
;
the canvas, or cloth edges turned in at the sides, and
sewed to the edges of the bag. At the top, the edge of the
canvas must be laid under the leather, which is stitched
down over it. The handles are merely tacked on. They
must be removed for mounting, and afterwards carefully
sewed down in the same places, over the canvas. Cover ali
9
194 TOBACCO AND HAND OR EUGENIE BAGS.
the seams, and the edges of the leather along the top, with
a fine silk cord. Observe that the work must be made to
fit the frame, not the latter to the work, as frames are made
only in certain gradations of size, except to order
;
and what
is called an out size, even if smaller, is always more expen-
sive.
Tobacco Bags.If braided, are of three or four pieces of
cloth, which, when joined, terminate in a point. A lining
of chamois leather or buckskin should be made, and put in
where the seams are joined. It should exactly fit, and be
fastened here and there to the outer part. Turn in the
edges towards each other, and sew them together. Cover
all the seams with fine silk cord. Add a handsome tassel at
the end, and at each side. Sew in small steel rings, in which
to run double cords, to draw it up. They must be a little
icithin the rim. Crochet and netted ones are made the
same.
Hand Bags, oe Eugenie Bags, have a worked or straw
basket below, and a silk top. The straw basket, which is
narrow, oval, and has no stiffening, is very nice, if procura-
ble. But work looks very handsome. Do a strip about six
inches wide, and five-eighths of a yard long, in any border or
set pattern. Cut two pieces of stout cardboard, two inches
wide, and half the length of the work, and round off the cor-
ners. Make them so as exactly to fit the work. Cover one
side of one piece with wadding, over which put silk. Do the
same to the other, but without the silk. Tack them to-
gether. Line the work witli silk, or other lining, turning in
the edges of both together. Take a piece of good silk, the
Length of the work, and double the depth, at least. Join up
the ends
;
line it, and put a running in the top, for ribbon or
cords, to draw it with a narrow frill above. Sew the silk to
the canvas, and the latter to the cardboard, the two parts
of which have previously been tacked together, the wadded
BANNER SCREENS SMOKING CArS MATS. 195
part to come inside the bag. Cover all the seams with cord,
and a quilled ribbon may be added where canvas and silk
join. Handles of cord, or a strip of canvas, worked to
match the bag, are added. These bags are so elegant, por-
table, and so very commodious, they are deservedly very
popular.
Fancy Bags are always lined with silk or satin ; but netted
ones always require a double lining.
Banner Screens.These are either mounted on a pole,
or on an apparatus for fastening to the chimney-piece. In
either case, the work must be lined with silk of the same
color as the ground, the bottom cut into a handsome scal-
loped form, with a handsome fringe, the sides finished with
gimp, and two pairs of tassels ; the top draped Avith cord.
The trimming for a banner screen must always be made ex-
actly to match. Whether with a pole or chimney-fitting, the
top is always sewed on gilt rings run on the pole.
Smoking Caps.These are in two shapes; either pointed,
in which case they are composed of five similar sections,
meeting at the point, or of a straight piece set in a round
crown. Unless the material itself be very thick, it should
be lined with bed-tick made in the same shape, and over it
with black silk. Of course, the black silk cap is made com-
pletely and then turned inside out, so that the seams are
concealed. A silk cord to match the materials should be
sewed round the edge of the crown to conceal the part
where it joins the head-piece. When the tassel is sewed on
it is complete.
Mats.Whenever you wish the foundation to be
stiff,
whether the centre of the mat be in Berlin-work, crochet,
beads, or braiding, cut out a shape in cardboard as stout as
you can penetrate with a needle, and large enough to receive
not only the centre but so much of the border as may require
to be on a foundation. Of course, it must be of the proper
196 HAND SCREENS WHATNOTS.
shape. Lay the centre on and tack it firmly down all round
the edges. Then sew down the border, which should always
be so as to cover the edges of the centre. Gum another
piece of cardboard of the same size on the back of this, when
it will completely hide the stitches, besides making it doubly
firm. A piece of colored paper may be pasted over the
cardboard to complete its neat appearance.
Hand Screens.

"Wire frames, silk or satin fancy cords, or

quilled ribbon, fringe, and handles are requisite. Tf the
screens be transparent, as in netting, both sides of the frame
must be covered with satin. If white silk canvas, one side
with white satin and the other with silk or satin of the color
of the fringe. Then sew on the work very evenly. Add the
fringe, and afterwards the ribbon or cords and handles. Two
cords, at least, should be used. One to match the fringe,
and the other of a lighter material, such as chenille and satin
blended.
Whatnots.I append an engraving (see Plate VI., Fig.
6,)
of these very commodious little articles, which are meant
to be suspended between windows, or in any other convenient
place. The front is the only part that is worked ; and it is
done in canvas, or crochet, or simple braiding on cloth. A
stout cardboard frame is made, on which the work is sewed.
It is lined with fluted silk, and the back covered with silk or
cloth. Being suspended to the wall, this part is not seen.
The best way to line a Whatnot is to take pieces of card-
board, very slightly less than the three composing the frame,
(viz. front, back and foundation), cover each, wadding the
last-named ; sew them together ; and, having brushed the
inner part of the frame with gum-water, dropping this case
in. Finish with cords round the top and sides ; or quilled
ribbon may be used for the front. Add cord and tassels,
as in the engraving, and another pair of tassels, one at each
end.
TO QUILL RIBBON FOE TRIMMINGS.
197
To Quill Ribbon for Trimmings.This is so much used
that many readers will probably be glad of a hint. Allow
nearly three times as much ribbon as the length required
;
have a piece of very narrow tape to run it on ; take a stitch
or two to fasten the tape and centre of the width of the rib-
bon
;
make a small plait towards the right, and another close
to it, but not folding over it, to the left ; run them down
lightly, through the tape ; and this double plait being made,
leave about half the length of ribbon plain, before making
another. This looks very much handsomer than a fuller
quilling. A gold or fancy cord should afterwards be run
along the centre to hide the stitches.
The French often put on this trimming by slightly gum-
ming the tape and pressing it down in its place. I may add,
they also fasten down raw edges of silk or satin in this way
very neatly. It answers extremely well.
LADIES' ORNAMENTAL WORK,
SUITABLE FOE PRESENTS.
How often have I heard the exclamation,
"
Well, I should
like to give so-and-so something of my own work ; but, then,
what can I do
?"
and the sjDeaker recalls one article and
another of decoration or utility, and puzzles herself vainly to
think of something else. The difficulty is tenfold increased
if a gentleman is to be the recipient. To aid such bewildered
people, I append a list of the most suitable gifts. In each,
of course, there is an infinite variety.
Antimacassars.In cotton and wool ; netted, crocheted,
or knitted.
Bags.Carriage, hand, and small fancy bags.
Basques, or jackets, in crochet or knitting.
Borders for table-covers.
Book-Markers.
Braces (Suspenders.)Generally on canvas, black or white.
Bracelets.In crochet or bead-work.
Cigar Cases.Embroidered, braided, or crocheted.
Covers for cushions, music stools, small tables, etc.
Cushions, small and large, worked, braided, or em-
broidered,
Doyleys.Braided on linen or muslin, netted, crocheted,
or knitted, jewelled doyleys.
198
SUITABLE PRESENTS. 199
Doyleys for bread, cheese, and fruit dishes.
Foot Muffs.Crocheted or embroidered.
Gauntlet Mitts.Knitted in wool.
Gauntlet Oyergloyes.Knitted in wool.
Hoods.Knitted or crocheted.
Lambrequins, or mantel draperyBerlin-work.
Mats.In every sort of work.
Mitts.Crocheted, netted, or knitted.
Muffatees.Knitted or crocheted.
Music Cases.Berlin-work.
Xote Cases.Bead-work, braiding, or applique.
Nubians.Always knitted. A scarf three yards long and
half a yard wide, done with coarse needles and a light stitch
in Shetland wool. The most comfortable and graceful wrap
for the head and shoulders when exposed to evening air in a
light dress.
Opera Mantles.Braided, knitted, or crocheted.
Ottomans.Usually in Berlin-work.
Penwipers.Braiding, bead, or applique-work.
Portfolios.Braiding, applique, or Berlin-work.
Purses.There are at least two hundred varieties, in
crochet, braiding and netting. Long purses are considered
as appropriate for gentlemen, and short ones for ladies. A
long purse should have one square and one round end.
RiGOLETTES.Warm head-dresses, knitted or crocheted.
Sachets.Small, embroidered scent-bags.
Screens.Banner, pole, or hand screens.
Scarfs.Xetted, knitted and crocheted.
Shaving Books.
Slippers.Of every sort.
Smoking Caps.
Sofa Cushions.Of every kind.
Sultanas, or Handkerchief Cases.Braided or embroi-
dered.
200 OBSOLETE ARTICLES.
Toilet Sachets.Cases for night-dresses, made in pique
in the form of an envelope, braided generally with cotton al-
liance braid.
Tobacco Bags.Braided, crocheted, knitted and netted.
Travelling Footstools.A small folding stool, the
cushion of which is in Berlin-work. When shut, it is 12
inches by
6,
and
H
deep.
Watch-hooks.In every sort of work.
Whatnots.Braiding or Berlin-work.
OBSOLETE ARTICLES.
Italian Braid.A linen tape, made on the pillow, in the
same manner as thread lace. Used in making and repairing
Italian Point.
Maltese Ditto.A variety of the above.
Coronation, or Victoria Ditto.A cotton braid, round,
and graduated from the thickness of coarse cotton to that of
a small embroidered leaf in satin-stitch, which, indeed, it
much resembled when worked. Some beautiful articles
braided in this material, collars, sleeves, etc., were to be
seen in the Exhibition of 1851
;
but though common enough
until that time, it has never since been procurable.
Rolio Fringe.This was much used at one period for
t; imming mats, having a thick, long, fleecy looking pile. It
lias not been made for a year or two.
GLOSSARY. 201
m
m
O
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83
88

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202 GLOSSARY.
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GLOSSARY. 203
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204 GLOSSARY
Zadenrund,
Teppich,
Lampenteller,
Kopfkissen,
Haupt
farbe,
Soutache
Litze,
Sammet,
Tuch,
Perlen,
perlensl
Kleinen
perlen,
Seiden
stramin,
Antike
spitze.
Granatroth,
Hochroth,
Gelb,
Mais-gelb,
Grim,
Strohgelber,
Schwarz,
Weiss,
Blau,
a
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GLOSSARY. 205
55
terms
have
been
almost
pted
in
the
German
em-
itions.
.
a-fi
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Karmin,
Violet,
Grau. Hell,
dun
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Grey,
Light,
dark,
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lawn,
and
light-brow
M
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Satin-stitch,
Buttonhole-stitch,
Sewing
over,
Spot,
Graduated
eyelet-hole,
Eyelet-hole,
Scallop,
Graduated
scalloped
edge,
Close, Open,
Fancy-stitch,
Veining,
veined,
DC

o
'S
CO
Worked
with
stitches
withi
round. Open-hem
or
herringbone,
Small
eyelet-holes
in
conti
hues,
Very
minute
spots
worked
each
other.
POSTSCRIPT
While the Manual ofFancy-work has been going through
the press, I have been engaged in preparing for publi-
cation a companion volume on all the various branches
of that still more useful art, Plain !N~eedle-woek. This
book, which will appear almost simultaneously with the
present, is entitled "The Manual of the Waedeobe;"
it is a treatise upon taste and hygiene in dress ; the kinds
and qualities of fabrics, and their adaptation to seasons and
occasions; with directions for cutting, fitting, and making
garments for ladies and children, preparing bed, table, and
toilet linen ; and complete instructions for the laundrythe
whole being suited to the use of families. Of course, the
general introduction of the sewing machine has made a revo-
lution in the once tedious occupation of plain needlework
;
and elaborate instructions for the use of this great invention
will be found in its pages, with notices of the various parts
of each garment to be done by the Wheeler & Wilson ma-
chine. In the course of writing it, I have been compelled to
make researches in the various leading stores and manu-
factories of New York, to ascertain the comparative merits
of the different articles. Everywhere I have been reminded
that I am in America and among American gentlemen, by
the courteous manner in which my inquiries have been an-
swered, and the eager wish displayed to afford me all possible
information
;
and this has had reference not only to the exist-
POSTSCRIPT. 207
ing, but to the future state of affairs, since contemplated im-
provements have been exhibited to me, and I have been
encouraged frankly to state my objection to anything I
deemed imperfect. Thus, on complaining of the danger that
careless wearers of skeleton skirts so frequently incur from
entangling their feet in the hoops, Messrs. Douglas & Sher-
wood showed me a design of a detachable fastening, by
which the springs might be removed from a muslin skirt,
literally in an instant, and replaced as easily and as speedily,
on its return from the laundry. This detachable fastening,
which is just patented, will obviate this danger entirely,
prevent the necessity for an over-skirt in hot weather, and
maintain the acknowledged preeminence of the Douglas &
Sherwood skirts over all others.
I mention this contemplated improvement merely to show
what advantages have been proffered to me, in gaining an ac-
quaintance with all the novelties and excellences in the fabrics
connected with the wardrobe. In all quarters, I have been
assured of cooperation in any plans I might form for assisting
my readers in their selections. And having, also, constant
communication with the leading firms in France, Germany,
and England, in all matters relating to the Toilette and
"Worktablc, I propose to share my advantages with my
friends, by executing commissions for such as may reside at
too great a distance from New York to make their own
purchases, without any extra cost to my correspondents. In
doing so, I shall bring to bear also the result of many years'
experience in London, where I daily made purchases for cor-
respondents not only in the United Kingdom, but in her
most distant colonies. Here I shall pursue the plan which
in my former home gave so much satisfaction. I shall per-
sonally superintend the execution of any commission, whether
it be for the most trifling article of needlework or a complete
trousseau. I shall also send paper patterns of the newest
208 POSTSCRIPT.
shapes in mantillas, basques, etc., to my correspondents, so
that they will be able to make any article they may choose
for themselves.
Another branch of order which merits particular care (the
execution of commissions for hair jewelry and devices), I am
happily in a position to carry out with the utmost exactitude
;
and to guarantee that the hair sent shall be that actually
useda point of much importance to the wearer, though
often and very cruelly overlooked by the worker.
To those readers of the Manual who may wish for lessons
in any of the various accomplishments it teaches, I am happy
to offer my services, whether they reside in New York or
any other part, provided that the expenses of my visit are
secured.
Finally, I shall be glad to answer any inquiries in my
power from any of my readers ; and shall only request that
they will inclose with their own letter, directed to Mes.
Matilda Pullast, Box
40,
Brooklyn Post-Office, N". Y., a
clearly-addressed stamped envelope for the reply
;
while the
writers of those letters that do not require a private answer,
will find a reply under their own initials hi the following
number of Frank Leslie's Magazine ; in the pages of which
will appear, every month, choice novelties in the leading
styles of fancy-work.
A BOOK OP UNIVERSAL
KNOWLEDGE.
L
JUST PUBLISHED, THE MOST USEFUL AND
EXTRAORDINARY
VOLUME
Ever yet issued from the Press, as it comprises all the essence contained in
a Dozen of any other Books of Information that have
hitherto been printed.
THE TITLE OF THIS WONDERFUL BOOK, IS AS FOLLOWS :
INQUIRE WITHIN
FOR ANY THING YOU WISH TO KNOW
j
OR
OVER 3,700
FACTS FOR THE PEOPLE.
A Large Volume
of
'436
pagesCloth, gilt

Price $1. Sentfree

of
Postage.
This Book, as its title imports, will give you correct information on
every possible subject that you ever heard or thought of ! It tells you
how to cook a dinnerto cure a sick friend, or cut an acquaintanceto
get up a dinner party, or dine abroadto play at cards, at chess, or any
other popular game,whether you wish to establish yourself in life accord-
ing to the rules
of
etiquette,to get up a sumptuous entree
for
the dinner
table, or arrange a plain dinnerto fold fancy napkinsto start busi?iess

to make moneyto dress with tasteto conduct a courtshipto tie any

kind
of
a knotto get married

to give an evening party to your friends

to behave well in companyto keep house properlyto danceto make
ornamental vases, by the new art oi Porchomanie, or Wax work, and other
fancy
employments for
the ladies : to establish acquaintances according
to the rules of
etiquetteto enjoy an hour at curious puzzles and arith-
metical questionsto do up a neat parcelto relieve the invalidto ac-
quaint yourself with the technical terms in literature, law, and medicine

in short, to do every useful thing that can be thought

of or imagined,
whether at home or abroad, or among your friends, or in your business, or
on your farm,
or in your garden, or at & public meeting, or at & private
assembly. It contains tables of all weights and measures
;
Interest Tables
from SI to 810,000 at six and seven percent., besides innumerable tables on
Interesting and Curious Subjects. It gives complete directions how to
wash, starch, and ironhow to keep the eves, hair, teeth and complexion in
ptrfcet orderhow to punctuate, spell and write correctlybow to com.-
pose all kinds
of
letters, from the billet-deaux to the business letterhow
to clean furniture, take care ofpet animalshow to measure all kinds
of
mechanic's workhow to detectfraudulent scalesand all about the proper-
ties and uses of different medicines. Indeed this is really and truly one of
the most wonderful and valuable books ever printed. Besides all this in-
formationand we have not room to give an idea of a hundredth part of it
it contains so many Valuable and Useful receipts that an enumeration of
them requires SEVENTY-TWO COLUMNS OF FINE TYPE FOB TEE
INDEX.
If
you wish to consult law or physic, buy this book ! If you
want to learn mechanically how to do a little
of
everything that is useful,
Imy it ! If you have any literary vanity, and wish to become a blue-stock-
hieof if you desire to make a sensation in almost any way, this book
will tell you exactly how to do it ! It is no collection
of
ancient sayings
and receipts, but the whole are fresh and new, and suited to the present
times. As a book to keep in the family for reference, it is nnequaled, com-
prising as it does all kinds
of
Books
of Information in a single volume.
Send cash orders to DICK & FITZGERALD.
No. 18 Ann Street, New York.
A Book of Kever-Ending Entertainment.
THE SOCIABLE;
OR,
One Thousand and One Home Amusements.
CONTAINING
ACTING PROVERBS, DRAMATIC CHARADES, ACTING CHARADES, OR
DRAWING-ROOM PANTOMIMES, MUSICAL BURLESQUES, TABLEAUX
YIVANTS, PARLOR GAMES, GAMES OF ACTION, FORFEITS, SCIENCE
IN SPORT AND PARLOR MAGIC, AND A CHOICE COLLECTION
OF CURIOUS MENTAL AND MECHANICAL PUZZLES, &c.
By the author of "The Magician's Own Book."
Illustrated with nearly 300 Engravings and Diagrams,
THE WHOLE BEING A FUND OF NEVER-ENDING ENTERTAINMENT.
Nearly 400 pages, 12mo., Cloth, gilt side stamp, $1.00.
"
The Sociable" will be found one of
the most extensively popular family
books ever issued from the press. As its
title implies, it is a collectiona com-
plete repertoireof the
AMUSEMENTS OF HOME,
E nbraeing a large and comprehensive
list of recreative pastime, arranged as
follows:
Parlor Theatricals, including Acting
Proverbs, Acting Charades. Dramatic
Cbaradesand Tableaux Vivants; Games
of Action; Games requiring Memory
and Attention; Games requiring Wit
and Intelligence ; Ruses, or Catch
Games ; Forfeits ; Puzzles ; Fireside
Games CbrWinter Evenings, and Science
in Sport, and Parlor Magic,
Many of these Gamesthe majority
of themare entirely new, as are,
also, the
PARLOR THEATRICALS
TABLEAUX VIVANTS,
THE ONLY BOOK
OF THIS KIND
Ever Published in America,
And as it will be invaluable to Families,
Schools, Social Clubs, etc., as a book of
reference on all matters of Amusement
and Recreation, there must be a steady
and permanent demand for it at all sea-
sons and in all years, although few of
the so-called "Holiday Books" are as
appropriate for Gifts as The Sociable.
Each department is amply illus-
trated with
BEAUTIFUL WOOD ENGRAVINGS
Which render the Text clear, and fully
explain all the Puzzles, the Mechanical
Contrivances mentioned, and other
things difficult to describe in writing.
It is elegantly bound, so as to be an
ornament to any center-table, and its
typographical execution is a specimen
of the highest excellence.
The need ofsuch a collection of IIOME
GAMES has long been felt, and the pub-
lishers believe that this endeavor on
their part, to supply that want, must
meet with the fullest success. They
have spared neither trouble nor expenso
to render it a complete and invaluable
vade mecum of Domostic Amusements,
so that its name may bo familiar as a
"Household Word" in all families, north,
south, oast and west, where the value
of wholesomo and innocent recreation is
recognized.
Which were prepared expressly for
this work. Everything in the hook is
superior of its kindthe greatest care
having been
taken to exclude everthing
thai was not above the standar 1 of me-
diocrity in
interest and ingenuity. It is
Prioe only One Dollar, bound in cloth, with gilt
sido and back stamp, sent to any
aidress in the United States, free of postage. Send cash orders to
DICK & FITZGERALD, Publishers,
18 Ann Street, !N"ew Yorlv.
EVERY MAN A M^G-ICIAIST.
THE MAGICIAN'S OWN BOOK;
OR,
Ije
Wfyak
%xt of Cunjurmg.
B.-ing a Complete Hand-Book of Parlor Magic, con/aining over One Thousand
Optical, Chemical, Mechanical, Magnetical, and Magical Experiments,
Amusing Transmutations, Astonishing Sleights and Subtleties, Cele-
brated Card Deceptions, Ingenious Tricks with Numbers, Curious
and Entertaining PuzzlesTogether with all the most Noted
Tricks of Modem Performers. The whole Illustrated with
OVEJR, GOO "WOOID CUTS,
And intended as a source of amusement for
ONE THOUSAND AND ONE EVENINGS.
12mo., cloth, 400 pages
;
gilt side and back stamp. Price, One Dollar, sent
free of postage.
Here is a book for the long winter evenings, and one that will make all
merry and happy. It contains over a THOUSAND TRICKS, of every descrip-
tion, and they are all explained so clear and explicitly that any person can
comprehend and perform them with ease. It also contains numerous CUPJOUS
PUZZLES, with patterns showing how they are done, any one of which will
afford amusement enough for a whole evening. There is, aiso, the best collec-
tion of wonderful CARD DECEPTIONS ever yet published, any one of which
is worth more than double the price of the book. This work also contains a
splendid collection of CURIOUS TRICKS WITH NUMBERS, and embraces
several hundred tricks never before in print. It Is .io catchpenny affair, but a
standard work, containing every variety of Experiment in Conjuring, Cards,
Legerdemain, Transmutations, the Magic of Chemistry, the Magic of Me-
chanics, the Magic of Pneumatics, the Magic of Numbers, the Magic of Art,
the Magic of Strength, the Magic of Magnetism, the Magic of Secret Writing,
Miscellaneous Curious Tricks and Fancies, &c. This book is beautifully bound
in line cloth, with gilt side and back stamp, and is illustrated with
OVER 500 WOOD ENGRAVINGS,
Besides a Tinted Title Page and Frontispiece. Price, ONE DOLLAR, and
sent to any address, free of postage.
Send cash orders to
DICK & FIT2.GEHALD,
(No. 18 Ann Street, New York.
THE FOU NTAIN OF ALL KN OWLEDGE.
THE REASON WHY:
A CAREFUL COLLECTION OF
Some ftjjottSHttbs of
Jj^asims
for
%)m%%
feljklj, iljouglj dfstrxrallg
Jlitofaw, are |mperfertlg ^nberstooo.
A BOOK OF CONDENSED SCIENTIFIC KNOWLEDGE FOR THE MILLION.
BY THE AUTHOR OF "INQUIRE WITHIN."
This is a goodly sized volume of 356 pages, comprising a sort of Encyclo-
pedia of Scientific Information of all kinds. It is arranged with an Alpha-
betical Index, in referring to which you can solve almost any problem in
Natural Philosophy or Learned Science that may come up. It is a book that
will give you the cream of the information that a long course of practical ex-
periments and profound study has imparted to the savants and philosophers
of this progressive age. It contains a collection and solution of
Thirteen Hundred &Tliirty-Two Facts In Science & Philosophy,
some of which, on there first discovery
,
puzzled the most learned and apt scholars.
It is useless to go into details of this excellent work. Suffice it to say,
that it treats on every imaginable subject pertaining to Causes and Effects,
and must necessarily be invaluable to all persons who desire KNOWLEDGE,
and whose means and position in life have prevented them from acquiring it
by a regular and tedious course of Study.
We hesitate not to say, that any one who closely reads this volume will ob-
tain as much real learning in a few days as years of study and patient research
would afford them in a regular course. In a word it makes you a learned and
refined person with spending but very little money, time or trouble.
No pains have been spared by the Author to make this a popular book, in
fact a book for the miUion, and some idea may be formed of its vast usefulness
when we inform the reader that THE REASON WHY has an
Index of Contents requiring Forty Columns of Fine Type.
No person who desires to figure in refined and intelligent circles should delay pur-
chasing a copy of this capital work, for it will furnish thousands of ideas and im-
portant topics of conversation, so that the most ignorant person by reading it will
be posted up on all scientific subjects.
What Haydn's Dictionary of Dates is in regard to historical events, this wonderful
book is in respect to scientific facts. The plan of the book and its execution, leave
nothing to be desired. We can cordially recommend this work to all those inquirers,
young and old, of both sexes, who are never satisfied until they know the
"
reason why-"
The man who goes out into the world, or attempts to attend properly to his
domestic duties, will find himself, however abundantly supplied with books or
bullion, perpetually embarrassed for the want of small facts and small change.
This volume supplies the
Ready Coin of Conversation,
In the shape of SCIENCE FOR THE MILLION, and makes even the neglected in
early studies feel quite at home upon every topic likely to be discussed within the
ordinary range of the social circle. It imparts
Practical Information on the Subject of Practical Facts.
It may be denominated, Science made easy, or a world
of useful every-day learn-
ing condensed into a volume for your pocket
!
THE REASON "W H3T
Is a handsome 12ino. volume of 356 pages, printed on fine paper, bound in cloth, gilt,
and embellished with a large number of Wood Cuts, illustrating the various subjects
treated of. PRICE ONE DOLLAR.
X&f Copies mailed to any address in the United States or Canada, froo of postage.
Send your Cash orders to DICK & FITZGERALD, Publishers,
No. 18 Ann Sthbet, New York. I
THE FAMILY AQUARIUM;
Or, Aqua Vivarium.
A NEW PLEASURE FOR THE DOMESTIC CIRCLE.
Being a Familiar and Complete Instructor upon the subject of the Construction,
Fitting up, Stocking, and Maintenance of the Marine and Fresh
Water Aquarium, or River and Ocean Gardens.
By H. r>. BTJTLIER, Esq..
12mo. Cloth, with gilt side stamp. Price 50 Cents.
We flatter ourselves that we know something of the character and principles
of the Aquarium, as well as of its management, and we feel capable nf doing
justice to Mr. Butler, who, in this production, has succeeded in arraying even
the dryest portion of the topic in gay and vivacious, not to say really pleasing
colors. His style is easy, simple, interesting, full of good nature, and his pages
abound with salient points of humor, as well as occasionally, flashes of truly
eloquent thought, and moral commentary. The
"
Family Aquarium" we do
not hesitate to pronounce the most perfect work of the kind extant in our
language. It is not merely a rehash of English books having reference to
English habits and English localities. It is American in all respects, and re-
markably original, not only teaching the
"
young idea how to shoot," in pre-
paring an Aquarium as a substitute for the old fish globe, but showing why the
icaler need never be changed, and illustrating the grand compensating princi-
ple by means of which nature avoids all that redundant waste of exertion. The
"
Family Aquarium," also instructs the reader how and whereto supply himself
with the most appropriate fish, the most suitable river or sea-plants, insects,
Crustacea, anemones, or animal flowers, &c, and the best mode of sustaining them
in health and vigor. With this little adviser on her parlor table, any lady may
fit up an Aquarium to please her own taste. She cannot go astray Everything
is set down and intelligibly explained, and though she may live a thousand miles
from the sea-board, she will be able to present as perfect an Aquarium as a resi-
dent on the Atlantic coast. The volume has our heartiest and most conscien-
tious commendation.

New York Times.

Th.e _A_rts of Beauty;
Or, SECRETS OF A LADY'S TOILET.
Wrrn Hints to Gentlemen* on the Art of Fascinating.
By MADAM LOLA M N T E Z
,
COUNTESS OF LANDSFELD.
Beatatif-ally "bo-ancl in cloth. 3?rice 50 Cents.
This wonderful book contains an account, in detail, of all the arts employed
by the ladies of all the chief cities of Europe for the purpose of developing and

reserving their charms. Independent of its rare and useful recipes, the
ook is a curiosity as a piece of art itself, for the most delicate subjects are
handled with a skill and an unexceptional propriety of language that is truly sur-
prising. The hints to gentlemen on the art of fascinating, form one of the most
amusing and biting pieces of irony and sarcasm that was ever written. The
wit of this portion of the book is inimitable, and the
"
coarser sex," as Lola
quaintly calls the men, ought universally to bow to her with thanks and admira-
tion for the work which she has performed.
Copies of either of the above books sent to any address in the United States
or Canada. Send cash orders to
DICK &FITZGERALD, Publishers,
No. 18 Ann Street, New York.
EVERY WOMAN
HER OWN LAWYER
A PRIVATE GUIDE IN ALL MATTERS OF LAW,
OF ESSENTIAL INTEREST TO WOMEN, AND BY THE AID OF WHICH
EVERY FEMALE MAY, IN WHATEVER SITUATION, UNDER-
STAND HER LEGAL COURSE AND REDRESS, AND
be :h:e:r, o-wist leg-A-Xj adviser;
CONTAINING
THE LAWS OP THE DIFFERENT STATES
RELATIVE If
Discarded Wives,
Breach of Promise,
Deserted Wives,
Clandestine Marriages,
Adultery,
Dower,
Illegitimate Children,
Step-Fathers and Step-
Children,
Seduction,
Slander,
Minors,
Marriage and Divorce,
Property in Marriage,
Guardians and Wards,
Rights in Property of a
Wife,
Rights of Widows,
Arrest of Females for deht
Alimony,
Bigamy,
Voluntary Separations,
Suits by and against Mar-
ried Women,
Medical Maltreatment,
Just causes for Leaving a
Husband,
A Wife's Support,
Property in Trust,
Transfers of Property,
Deeds of Gift,
Annuities,
Articles of Separation,
False Pretenses in Court-
ship,
&c, &c, &c.
By GEORGE BISHOP.
Large 12mo., nearly 400 pages, bound in half Leather, Price 1 00.
This book should be in the hands of every woman, young or old, married or single,
in the United States. Now-a-days, especially, when women are beginning to be so uni-
versally recognized as competont to attend to all sorts of business matters which relate
to themselves, such a work is invaluable. It is compiled from the very best and most
reliable authorities, and the legal advice, forms, and information it contains, are/or all
the States of
the Union. The portions relating to
RIGHTS OF MARRIED WOMEN IN PROPERTY, THE LAWS OF DIVORCE
IN
ALL THE STATES, LEGAL RIGHTS OF GUARDIANS AND WARDS, ETC.,
Are very full and explicit, and should be understood by every woman who has a dollar's
worth ol proporty, who is married or contemplates marriage, or who has children, either
of her own or by adoption. An able and well-known lawyer, whoso forensic attainments I
hive given him a reputation hardly excelled in the New or Old Worlds, once said, that)
"more troublesome and expensive litigation arises from the total ignorance of law,;
among women, than from all the malice or chicanery of men!" and his statement is un-j
donbtedly true. A wide circulation of this work will, however, produce a great change
in this state of things, and its use. as a book of constant reference, will inculcate among i
the women of America, a knowledge of legal science which will not only save them anj
immense
amount of mental anxiety and pecuniary loss, but will enable thorn to instill)
into the minds of thoir children, that comprehension and love of justice, which shall ren-
j j
dor them good and law-abiding oitizens.
Priee one dollar, and sent to any address, free of postage. Send cash orders to
DICK & FITZGERALD, No. 18 Ann Street, N. Y
LIVE AND LEARN
5
A GUIDE FOR ALL WHO WISH TO
SPEAK AND WRITE COEEECTLY:
particularly intended as a Book of Reference for the Solution of Difficulties
connected with Grammar, Composition, Punctuation, &c, with Explanations
of Latin and French words and Phrases of frequent occurrence in Newspa-
pers, Keviews, Periodicals, and Books in general containing Examples of
ONE THOUSAND MISTAKES
of Daily Occurrence, in Speaking, Writing and Pronunciation. Together
with Detailed Instructions for Writing for the Press, and forms 01 Articles
in the various departments of Newspaper Literature.
_
216 pages, bound in
Cloth, 12mo, price 50 cents, and sent to any address f-ec
of
postage.
'
Live and Learn" is a most useful book, designed as a Guide to Gram
mar, Composition, and Punctuation. So few people speak or write really
good grammar, and fewer still punctuate decently, that a book that informs
them how to do soand not only that indicates their faults, but shows them
how they are to be correctedcannot fail to be popular ; there is not a
person indeed, itho might not learn something from **
No work heretofore written on this subject contains one half the really
useful information that the present does. It should be in the hand of every
man, woman and child in the country, and i3 alike invaluable to the Scholar,
the Merchant, the Farmer, and the Artizan.
There are hundreds of persons eDgaged in professional and commercial
pursuits, who are sensible ot their deficiencies on mauy points connected
with the gnmmar of their own tongue, and who. by self-tuition, are anxious
to correct such deficiencies, and to acquire the means of speaking and
writiDg.if not with elegance at least with a due regard to grammatical ac-
curacy, to whom this little work is "indispensible." Asa book of refer-
ence,
"
Live and Learu'
:
will settle many disputes. It ought to be on every
table, and be particularly recommended to the young, before habit makes
common blunders uncommon hard to cure.
OPINIONS OV THE PRESS,
"
Live and Learn" is an excellent book. To show our appreciation of its
merits we have had it cased in leather, and have made a pocket companion
of it. We look upon it as really indispensible. We advise our readers to
imitate our example- -procure the book and sell it not for any price

Edu-
cational Gazette.
Such a book as this has long been wanted by those who entertain the
wish alluded to in the title. It is suitable for all classes. We have atten-
tively conned its pages, and can recommend it as one
of
the best works
of
reference for
the yuung student, or even the ripe scholar, and as deserving
to be generally consulted. The work is altogether useful and indispensible.

New York Tribune.

Thi9 book, particularly intended as a work of reference for the solution
of difficulties connected with grammar, composition and punctuation, etc.,
etc., will be found useful by those who have not received a sound elementa-
ry education and who nevertheless move in position.

Daily Times.
This eapital work not only gives examp^s of over 1000 mistakes, but it
gives rules for their correction so clear, so terse, and at once so simple that
the most ordinary mind cannot fail to comprehend their meaning. This is
one of the chief beauties of
"
Live and Learn," for what is the use of point-
ing out a grammatical error without giving a key to its correction ? There
htt been several catchpenny works on this subject lately issued. They tell
the reader that mistakes exist, but give no rule for their avoidance. If you
want u really po id woik, buy
"
Live and Learn."
Send cash orders to
DICK h FITZGERALD,
{
No. 18 Ann St. N. Y.
JUDGE HALIBURTON'S WORKS.
"
The writings of Judge Haliburton have long been regarded as the produc-
tion of the finest humorist that has ever attempted the delineation of Yankee
character, and these entertaining works before us show that he has lost none
of his original wit and humor. It will be difficult to find volumes so full of
fun and good sense as those which chronicle the experience of Sam Slick."
Commercial Advertiser.
SAM SLICK'S
Sayings and Doings.
Since Sam Slick's first work, he has
written nothing so fresh, racy, and gen-
uinely humorous as this. Every line
of it tells, some way or otherinstruc-
tively, satirically, jocosely or wittily.
Admiration at Sam's mature talents,
and laughter at his droll yarns, con-
stantly alternate as with unhalting
avidity we peruse this last volume of
his. In every page the Clockmaker
proves himself the fastest time-killer a-
going. We give the titles of some of
the articles in this capital work :
The Duke of Kent's Lodge ; Playing
a Card ; Behind the Scenes
;
The Black
Brother ; The Great Unknown ; Snub-
bing a Snob ;
Patriotism, or, The Two
Shears; Too Knowing by Half ; Matri-
mony ; The Wooden Horse
;
The Bad
Shilling ; Trading in Bed
;
Knowing the
Soundings, or, Polly Coffin's Sandhole
;
An Old Friend with a New Face
; The
Unburied One ;
Definition of a Gentle-
man ; Looking Up ;
The Old Minister
;
The Barrel Without Hoops ; Facing a
Woman ; The Attache.
THE SAYINGS & DOINGS
Of the Yankee Clockmaker are issued
in one elegant volume, neatly bound in
muslin. Price 75 cents ; in Paper, 50
cents. Sent Free of Postage. Buy it,
and if you don't laugh, then there is no
laugh in you.
SAM SLICK
IN SEARCH OF A WIFE.
Everybody has heard of
"
Sam Slick,
the Clockmaker," and he has given his
opinion on almost everything. This
book contains his opinion about
courtin' the gals,
And his laughable adventures after the
petticoats. Buy this book if you want
many good hearty laughs. There is a
book called
"
The Horse," and another
"
The Cow," and
"
The Dog," and so
on ; why should'nt there be one on
"
The Gals
!"
They are about the most
difficult to choose and to manage of any
created critter, and there ain't any de-
pendable directions about pickin' and
choosin' of them. Is it any wonder
then so many fellows get taken in when
they go for to swap hearts with them.
12mo. Paper, 50 cents. Cloth, 75 cents.
SAM SLICK'S
Nature and Human Nature.
This is the most amusing and witty
collection of the Opinions, Sayings, and
Doings of the famous Sam Slick, that
has been published. It gives the expe-
riences of the Yankee Clockmaker, and
the incidents that occurred in his jour-
neyings over the world, together with
his Observations on Men and Things in
General ; also containing his Opinions
on Matrimony. Paper, 50 cents. Cloth,
75 cents.
THE ATTACHE
;
OR, SAM SLICK IN ENGLAND.
"
Since Sam Slick's first work, he has
written nothing so fresh, racy and genu-
inely humorous as this. E>
r
ery line of
it tells, some way or otherinstructive-
ly, satirically, jocosely, or wittily."

London Observer.
"
We sincerely pity the man who can-
not find in it the materials for the
loosening of several of his coffin nails.
It is full of oddity and fun, and must
sell like new tomatoes."Buffalo Ex-
press. Large 12mo. Paper, price 50
cents. Cloth, 75.
Copies of either of the above popular hooks sent to any address, free of
postage. Send cash orders to
DICK & FITZGERALD,
No. 18 Ann Street, New York.
N
S
K
T
910S
G
P84
R
1859
NE
^
ART
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liKiliiiif'
1962
00079
0265