; and the same, I understand, is the case between

Rangi haute and Ranga tira, which latter is a mere rock. On Rangi
haute there are twelve of the aboriginal natives. The " Western
Reef " is a range of rocks lying off the north-west end of the island,
once a favourite resort of seals. The " Cuba" passed between this
reef and the main, and found a clear channel.
Rangi tutahi, or " the Sisters," are two pyramidical rocks about
100 feet high, covered with scanty bushes, and frequented by
countless numbers of sea-birds. There is a long line of breakers
running westwards from these islets, which forms the " North-
West Reef."
The rocks which form the " Forty-fourth Degree Islands"
were also seen by us ; and the " Star Keys," marked by high
breakers, were visible from the mast-head. All these rocks were
formerly much visited by sealers.
XVII. Observations on the Indigenous Tribes of the N.W.
Coast of America. By John Scouler, M.D., F.L.S., &c.
Since the period of the important voyage of Vancouver, the ad-
mirable surveys of that navigator have rendered the numerous
islands and complicated inlets of the N.W. coast of America fami-
liar to the geographers of Europe. The expeditions by land of
Sir A. M'Kenzie, Lewis and Clarke, and the subsequent enter-
prises of the fur-traders, have explored the countries which extend
216 Dr. Scouler on N.W. American Tribes.
from the shores of the Pacific to the western side of the Rocky
Mountains, and have discovered the course and origin of the different
rivers which flow through that extensive region ; but, notwith-
standing our pretty correct knowledge of the geography of that
remote part of the American continent, we are still, to a great
extent, ignorant of the languages and history of the numerous
tribes which inhabit its islands and deeply-indented coasts, or
have settled along the course of its rivers.
The history of the indigenous tribes of the N.W. coast is the
more interesting, since, from the very different physical conditions
under which they are placed, they exhibit characters and manners
that distinguish them in many respects from the race of hunters
who wander over the plains of the Missouri. Westerly winds
prevail on the shores of the North Pacific throughout the greater
part of the year, and render the climate extremely moist and mild :
hence the winters are far more moderate along the W. coast of
North America than in corresponding latitudes on the eastern
side of the same continent. At the mouth of the Columbia River,
situated in nearly the same parallel of latitude as Quebec, snow
seldom remains on the ground more than a few hours ; and the
natives go about, even during winter, with very slight clothing.
The configuration of the coast is another circumstance which
has great influence on the habits of the Indians. Abounding in
islands, many of them of considerable size, while the shores of the
mainland are broken up by numerous inlets resembling the lochs
of the western shores of Scotland, the natives obtain their chief
supplies of food by fishing, and are thus rendered more sedentary
than the tribes which follow the buffalo on the E. side of the
Rocky Mountains. Even the inland-tribes of N.W. America
are much less exclusively hunters than those which live towards
the sources of the Missouri.
Several causes contribute to produce this remarkable difference
between the tribes on the eastern and western sides of the moun-
tains. The most abundant supply of game in N. America is
that afforded by the buffalo, and this animal has never penetrated
to the N.W. coast ; at the same time, the Columbia River, Fraser's
River, and the other streams on the W. side of the mountains,
abound in salmon almost to their source. The inland tribes of
the N.W. region reside chiefly on the margins of rivers, where
they live on salmon during the summer, and prepare great quan-
tities of the same fish for their winter supply. The produce of
the chase is, therefore, with them a secondary consideration. On
the E. side of the mountains no supplies of salmon can be ob-
tained ; the rivers either flow into fresh-water lakes, or, as is the
case with the tributaries of the Mississippi, their sources are too
remote from the sea to permit of the immigrations of salmon from
Dr. Scouler on N.W. American Tribes. 217
salt to fresh water. The habits of the eastern natives are almost
as unsettled as those of the buffalo, whose migrations bring along
with them alternations of abundance and starvation.
It is, at least in part, owing to these peculiarities of their phy-
sical condition that the habits and social arrangements of the Indians
on the opposite sides of the mountains present such a remarkable
contrast. The N.W. Indians, especially the coast-tribes, have
made considerable progress in the rude arts of savage life. Their
canoes are constructed with much skill ; their houses, being for
permanent residence, have been erected with some forethought
and attention to comfort ; and their fishing apparatus and articles
of domestic economy are far more numerous and elaborate than
can be found in the temporary lodge of hunting-tribes. From
this settled mode of life, they are more accustomed to continuous
labour, and even show considerable aptitude for passing into an
agricultural state.
In the following communication, I shall confine my remarks
chiefly to the coast-tribes which spread from the Columbia River
northwards to Queen Charlotte's Island, as it is with them alone
that I am acquainted from personal observation. The information
which I have collected would be very meagre, if I had not enjoyed
the advantage of obtaining a great amount of valuable material
from my friend, Mr. Tolmie, Surgeon to the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, who has resided for eight years on the N.W. coast, and has
paid much attention to the languages and manners of the Indians.
To this gentleman I am indebted for the extensive vocabularies
appended to this paper, as likewise for numerous and interesting
remarks on the manners and physical character of the Indians,
and for a collection of crania of the different Northern Tribes.
The vocabularies collected by Mr. Tolmie will, I trust, be of
value to those who take an interest in the history of the aboriginal
tribes of North America ; especially as they exhibit more copious
information respecting the north-western dialects than is to be found
in any publication with which I am acquainted. These Tables con-
tain very extensive vocabularies of no fewer than seventeen dif-
ferent dialects, and I have reason to know that the utmost pains
have been bestowed on rendering them as accurate as possible.
In attempting a description of the numerous tribes of the N.W.
coast, I shall be guided chiefly by considerations founded on their
physical character, manners and customs, and on the affinities of
their languages. The Indian tribes of the N.W. may be divided
into two groups, the Insular and the Inland, or those who in-
habit the islands and adjacent shores of the mainland, and subsist
almost entirely by fishing; and those who live in the interior,
and are partly hunters. This division is perhaps arbitrary, or at
least, imperfect, as there are several tribes whose affinities with
either group is obscure; but as these difficulties will be fully
vol. ii. Q
218 Dr. Scouler on N.W. American Tribes.
stated, it is hoped this arrangement will give rise to no misappre-
hension.
The Insular Group comprehends a great number of Tribes
extending along the shores of the Pacific, from the Columbia
River to Sitga,* and up to the Polar Regions, where the northern
members of this group are conterminous with the Esquimaux.
The Insular and Coast Tribes of Indians may be divided into two
Families, the Northern and Southern. The Northern Family con-
sists of numerous little tribes or communities, which have spread
from the Arctic Circle to the northern extremity of Quadra and
Vancouver's Island. All the Indian tribes in the Russian terri-
tory belong to this Family, and their language appears, from the
scanty vocabulary published by Wrangel, to be very nearly iden-
tical with that spoken in Queen Charlotte's Island.
This northern family, if we select the Queen Charlotte's
Islanders as specimens, are by far the best looking, most intel-
ligent and energetic people on the N.W. coast, and in every
respect contrast favourably with the Southern Tribes of Nootka
Sound and the Columbia. They are taller and stronger than the
Nootkans, their limbs are better formed, and their carriage is much
bolder. They permit the hair of the upper lip to grow, and their
mustachios are often as strong as those of Europeans. Their
complexion, when they are washed and free from paint, is as
white as that of the people of the S. of Europe. Their women
practise a kind of deformity which is unknown among the Southern
Tribes. An incision is made in the lower lip in a direction
parallel to its length, and an oval piece of wood introduced into
the wound, is worn by them on all occasions. The custom of
flattening the head, so common among the Southern Tribes, appears
to be unknown in any of the districts to the N. of Quadra and
Vancouver's Island. The Indians of the Northern Family are re-
markable for their ingenuity and mechanical dexterity in the
construction of their canoes, houses and different warlike or
fishing implements. They construct drinking-vessels, tobacco-
pipes, &c. from a soft argillaceous stone, and these articles are
remarkable for the symmetry of their form, and the exceedingly
elaborate and intricate figures which are carved upon them.
With respect to carving and a faculty for imitation, the Queen
Charlotte's Islanders are equal to the most ingenious of the Poly-
nesian Tribes.
The more Northern Tribes of this family inhabit the Russian
territory, and are enumerated by Wrangelf under the names of
Koloshes, Ugalentzes, Atnas, Kolchans, and Kenaies. The
Tun Ghaase are the most northern Indians of this family which
have any intercourse with English fur-traders : they are a small
tribe, inhabiting the S.E. corner of Prince of Wales's Archipelago.
Their language, as Mr. Tolmie conjectured, is nearly the same
* Also Sitkha, or Sitka. Ed. f Or rather Baer in Wrangel, p. 226. En.
Dr. Scouler on N.W. American Tribes. 219
as that spoken at Sitga. Mr. Tolmie states that they are the
bravest people, as well as the best hunters, on the coast, and have,
from the earliest period, possessed and deserved the confidence of
the Whites.
The Haidah tribes of the Northern Family inhabit Queen
Charlotte's Island, but a colony of this people, called the Kyga-
nies, have settled at the southern extremity of Prince of Wales's
Archipelago, and in the Northern Island. These Kyganies have
had more intercourse with the Whites, and consider themselves
more civilised than the other tribes, whom they regard with feelings
of contempt. They are very cleanly, fierce and daring; and
when unapprehensive of hostilities from abroad, keep up their
warlike habits by having an occasional broil among themselves.
In former times, when the sea-otter abounded, the Massettes,*
Skittegas,f Cumshawas, and other (Haidah) tribes inhabiting the
eastern shores of Queen Charlotte's Island, were among the most
wealthy on the coast : since the sea-otter has been destroyed, the
Haidahs have become poor, and have been reduced to other plans
in order to procure blankets. They fabricate most of the curi-
osities found on the coast, but their staple article is the potato,
which they sell in great quantities to the mainland tribes. In
the autumn, there is quite a competition among the Haidahs
who shall carry early potatoes to the mainland. Fleets of from
forty to fifty canoes arrive early in September, and proceed to the
different villages of the ChimmesyanJ nation, and the potato-fair
seldom ends without more or less fighting. They also manu-
facture and export canoes, and are themselves very venturous on
the deep. When they visit the mainland, they are bold and
treacherous, and always ready for mischief.
This account of the Haidah tribes has been furnished by Mr.
Tolmie, and is the more interesting, as it affords very satisfactory
evidence of the aptitude of the Queen Charlotte's Islanders to
adopt the customs and improvements of civilised life. When
Europeans began to frequent the N.W. coast for the purpose of
collecting furs, especially those of the sea-otter, the shores of
Queen Charlotte's Island afforded an abundant supply of this
valuable article, and the Haidah tribes carried on an extensive
commerce with the English and Americans. During the period
when this trade was flourishing, a taste for European commodities
was created, which still continues, although the sea-otter, the
sole article in return for which those foreign luxuries could be
obtained, has been almost extirpated. In the meanwhile, the
Haidahs had learned to cultivate the potato, and to supply the
continental tribes with provisions. They now obtain their blankets
from the latter, who in their turn procure them from the fur-
traders in exchange for their beaver-skins. The taking of this
first step in improvement distinguishes the Queen Charlotte's
* Or Masseels. Ed. + Or Skiddegeet. Ed. J Chemmesyan ? Ed.
Q2
220 Dr. Scouler on N.W. American Tribes.
Islanders from the Southern Tribes of the Columbia River, who
have enjoyed much greater advantages. Although Europeans have
been settled among the Cheenooks of the Columbia for twenty-
five years, they cannot be induced to adopt the cultivation of
the potato, or to breed pigs and poultry, notwithstanding the
example has been set them for so long a period. This inferiority
of the tribes on the Columbia may be accounted for by the vast
abundance of salmon and sturgeon which that river supplies, as
well as by the natural indolence of the people.
The numerous tribes which inhabit the islands and coasts from
Queen Charlotte's Island to 60 N. lat., unquestionably belong
to one Northern Family. The points of similarity between them
are numerous and unequivocal. They resemble each other in
physical features and intellectual character : they are bold, indus-
trious and ingenious, when compared with the Southern Family.
They differ also from the southern tribes in arbitrary customs :
thus the practice of flattening the head is unknown among them,
while the lip-ornament worn by the women of the Northern Family
is not used by any tribe to the south of Quadra and Vancouver's
Island. The most decisive circumstance is, however, the near
affinity of all the northern dialects. In as far as I have been
able to obtain vocabularies, it appears that the numbers and names
of simple and familiar objects are often the same among all these
tribes. It is true the language of the Southern Branch appears to
be radically the same as that of the Northern Family ; but, at the
same time, it appears that the dialects of the Northern Section
differ less from each other than any one of them does from the lan-
guage spoken at Nootka Sound, or on the banks of the Columbia.
The Chimmesyans appear to belong to the Northern Family,
although they have some affinity with the Southern Division.
This extensive tribe of Indians inhabits Jhe coast of the mainland
from 55 30' N., down to 53 30' N. These Indians resemble
the Haidahs in the energy of their character, and, according to
Mr. Tolmie, are much more active and cleanly than the tribes to
the south. Although the language of the Chimmesyans appears
to have more affinity with that of the Southern than of the Northern
tribes, I have ventured to refer them to the latter Family. In
their physical features, they agree with the northern tribes. On
comparing a series of crania of the Chimmesyans with a similar
series obtained from the burying places of the Cheenooks on the
Columbia River, it is found that a very considerable difference
exists between them; both the Cheenook and Chimmesyan skulls
are characterised by very broad and high cheek-bones, with a
receding forehead, but in their secondary features they differ re-
markably. The Cheenook cranium, even when not flattened, is
long and narrow, compressed laterally, and keel-shaped, like the
skull of the Esquimaux, while the Chimmesyan's head is much
broader between the parietal and temporal bones, and its vertex is
Dr. Scouler on N.W. American Tribes. 221
remarkably flat. These characters are so apparent, that there
is no difficulty in distinguishing the crania of the two tribes.
Mr. Tolmie suspects that the language of the Chimmesyan
has a considerable affinity with that of the Carriens* of New Cale-
donia; and if this conjecture be correct, it would prove that the
Northern Insular Race has penetrated far into the interior of the
continent.
The second or Southern Family of the insular tribes may be
also denominated Nootka- Columbian, from the two places in
which they have had most intercourse with Europeans, and where
their manners and language are best known. This division com-
prehends the tribes inhabiting Quadra and Vancouver's Island,
and the adjacent inlets of the mainland, down to the Columbia
River, and perhaps as far S. as Umpquaf river and the northern
part of New California. The numerous tribes of this Family,
though intimately related to the Northern Division, by affinity of
language and many words common to the dialects of both, differ
from the latter in physical character, and also in arbitrary customs.
The Nootka-Columbians are of smaller stature than the Northern
Tribes; they are usually fatter and more muscular; their cheek-
bones are prominent, and their complexion, though light, has
more of a copper hue. They are far more indolent, filthy and
inactive than the Haidah tribes. The legs of the women, espe-
cially those of the slaves, are often swollen as if cedematous, so
that the leg appears of an uniform thickness from the ankle to the
calf. This appears to depend, not on any original physical pecu-
liarity, but on the circumstance of their wearing a garter or liga-
ture, which obstructs the passage of the blood through the subcu-
taneous veins. The limbs of both sexes are ill-formed, and the
toes turned inwards, as if they had been accustomed to be con-
stantly on horseback. This peculiarity, which I had observed
among the natives of the Columbia, had been noticed by Mozino
long before among the inhabitants of Nootka. ' The ankle and
extremities of the toes,' he remarks,^ ' are usually turned inwards,
which is probably occasioned by the manner in which they are
swathed up in infancy, and afterwards from the manner in which
they sit in their canoes.' We may also attribute to this cause
their ungraceful mode of walking, and a kind of swelling which is
observed especially among the women.
The most remarkable physical peculiarity observed in this
Family is one produced by artificial means. The practice of
flattening the head, unknown among the Haidah tribes, is uni-
versal among the Nootka-Columbians, and prevails along the
north-west coast, from Salmon River in lat. 53 30' N., to
Umpqua River, in lat. 46 N.
* Carriers ? Ed. f Or TJmqua. Ed.
I Mozino, Viage de la Sutil y Mexicaua, p. 124.
222 Dr. Scoulkr on N. W. American Tribes.
The process by which the head is compressed is very simple.
Immediately after birth, the child is placed in a sort of box or
cradle, in which there is a small cushion to support the nape of
the neck. The occiput rests on the flat board which forms the
back of this cradle ; a piece of board is attached by means of
thongs forming a hinge, to the upper part of the board, and is
brought in contact with the forehead, and made fast by means of
other thongs. This cradle and compressing-machine the mother
carries on her back wherever she goes; and the pressure is
steadily applied to its head till the child be able to walk.
This absurd custom is not strictly universal ; for the chiefs and
freemen are alone permitted to disfigure the heads of their chil-
dren : the mischimis, or slaves, are not permitted to confer this
badge of freedom on their children.*
This strange custom, although far from being unfrequent
throughout the whole extent of the American continent, is on the
north-west coast confined to the Nootka- Columbians. As we may
consider the Tribe of Flat Heads which live towards the sources
of the Columbia as a scion of this family, I may be allowed to
mention that this custom was well known to several of the tribes
that inhabited Peru long before the conquest by Pizarro.
This observation is of some importance, especially as Mr. Pent-
land, and also Professor Tudemann, have thrown out the opinion
that the compressed crania found in the ancient tombs of Titi-
caca owe their singular configuration not to art, but to some ori-
ginal and congenital peculiarity. This, however, does not appear
to be a very probable supposition ; for the ancient skulls of
Titicaca do not exhibit a greater amount of deformity than the
artificially-flattened heads of the Nootkans and Cheenooks. -j-
That the skulls of Titicaca have been distorted by artificial pres-
sure is almost certain, since Garcilaso de la Vega assures us that
the process of flattening was actually practised by the inhabitants
of the province of Canari at the period of its conquest by the Inca
Tupac Yupanqui. The mode of flattening is described with
much detail by Garcilaso : the very terms of his narrative might
be applied with as much propriety to the present Cheenooks of
the Columbia as to the Canaris of Peru, a century before the
Spaniards arrived among them.J
* For a more particular account of this process, a paper by the author, in the Z
oo-
logical Journal, vol. iv. p. 304, may be consulted.
-f Compare the figure of a skull from Titicaca (Pritchard, Physical History of
Mankind, vol. i. pi. 1, 2nd ed.) with the skulls of Cheenooks figured in theZool
. Journal,
vol. iv. plates 9, 1 0.
" Esta nacion trahia por divisa la cabeza tableada, que en naciendo la criatura,
le
ponian una tablilla en la {rente y otra en el coladrillo, y las ataban ambas, y
cada dia las
iban apretando y juntando mas y mas. Siempre tenian la criatura hechada de espal
das,
y no le quitaban las tablillas hasta los tres anos. Sacaban las cabezas feismas
(?) y asi
por opprobrio a qualquiera Indio que tiene la frente mas ancho que lo ordinario,
6 el
cogote llano, que dician Palta-uma que (es) cabeza de Palta." Garcilaso de la Ve
ga,
Historia de Peru, Parte i. libr. cap. 44.
Dr. Scouler on N. W. American Tribes. 223
We find many other customs among the Nootka- Columbians
which do not exist among the more northern Haidah Tribes.
Mr. Tolmie gives the following interesting account of the Haeel-
tzuk, the most northern of the Nootka-Columbian Family : They
are extremely dirty in their habits, and comparatively effeminate
in their appearance. They live at peace among themselves, and
are the most northern tribe that flatten the cranium. Their
chiefs have but little influence except as conjurers. When the
salmon season is past, and provisions for the winter have been laid
in, the feasting and conjuring begin. The conjurer is called
Tzeet-tzaiak. The chief retires to the forest, where he secludes
himself, pretending to fast, but is secretly supplied with food by
a confidant. While there he is called Taamish, and is supposed
to hold communication with the Nawlok. Unexpectedly he
makes his appearance in the village, dressed in a robe of black
bear-skin, his head bound with a chaplet and a collar of wrought
alder-bark, which is of a bright red colour. The women, chil-
dren and many of the men, fly at his approach ; but some one,
desirous of distinction, boldly awaits and presents his bared arm,
and from its outward surface the Taamish bites and swallows one
or more large mouthfuls, and whoever meets him is obliged to
submit to this ordeal. The biter acquires renown by being able
to seize a large morsel between his incisors, and to remove it
with dexterity without the aid of a knife, and the person bitten
by enduring with fortitude. The Indians are as proud of these
scars as a soldier can be of wounds acquired in the defence of his
country. I have often inquired the reason of this practice, but
could only learn that it is " weinah," or valuable. With respect
to the Nawlok, Wacash, the chief Taamish and most successful
biter among the Haeeltzuk, informed me, rather reluctantly, that
he did not see them, but only heard their cries, and that they
lived in the mountains, and were not human beings. During the
Tzeet-tzaiak,* it is improper to hunt or travel for any purpose.
The Haeeltzak are commonly reputed to practise cannibalism ;