Timming Yz 250

Made this a little project to help TT'ers with detonation and timing factors.
This came about for two reasons.

One, there were people running the exact same fuel, config and alt/temp while one would get ping
(detonation) while another would not.
Two, since many people have timing lights in their garages and not dial indicators, a conversion to time
the bike with a timing light seemed helpful.
So the two methods were tried side by side to a) reduce ping (detonation) and b) make it easier for
TT'ers to time their YZ's.
(which I'm pretty sure most people weren't doing)
Also, keep in mind that these indicator-advance specs are unique to the '99-'09 YZ250 because of it's
flywheel-stator relationship, stroke, rod length and CDI advance programming.
The results:
-The whole area behind the flywheel is the moveable stator
which will always be in the same place relative to the flywheel since the flywheel fires relative to it.
This means you can't use the stator as a ref. for the timing light.
You have to mark the case, which makes it very imprecise since you're
marking an uneven surface which is far away from the mark on the flywheel.
-Advantage dial indicator
-The dial indicator can be wiggled into the spark plug hole with the tank in place while the timing light
needs to have the tank removed to clip it onto the spark plug wire.
So now you have to start the bike with the tank off to use the timing light......uh, better be quick...LOL
-The timing marks put on the case to use the timing light would be +- 2 deg. because of their lack of
accuracy
with the light signal bouncing around and scatter etc. while the dial gauge can set timing in 1/2 degree
increments fairly easily
-The dial indicator is really very easy to use and super accurate....AND....
it became very obvious that there's another benefit to the dial indicator.
What would you say to a quick way to see if you need to do a bottom end job because of excessive rod
bearing clearances?
I know my bottom end is good....when the the crank is turned very slightly, the dial gauge should move
exactly with the the crank....
zero clearance on the crank bearing and piston bearing....if someone could turn the crank slightly and
not see the indicator move, ie.
meaning they had clearance on one of the bearings,
it could pre-identify a worn crank or piston bearing before losing the engine to a catastophic failure.
-Imho, there's no doubt that the dial indicator is the way to go and should really be in every owners tool
box.
-My bike, which had never had it's timing reset from the factory, was one degree advanced over the
stock spec.
This was enough to cause a very slight ping (detonation) off idle on 91 pump and optimized jetting.
I backed off the timing to 1.0 degree retarded from stock and the detonation is gone. Cost $0 No race
gas or rich jetting required.
-Retarding the timing slightly has other benefits as well.
-If you have excessive wheelspin or difficulty controlling your line because of the terrain when the bike
comes on the powerband,
retarded timing will smooth out the hit. The level of hit smoothness is directly related to the amount of
retardation you set.
-The bike will retain and actually gain a slight amount of top end rev capability and over rev.
The retarded timing raises exhaust temperature at high rpm causing the expansion chamber to flow
better at high rpm.
-Because of the reduced tendency to have detonation, it is easier to jet the bike leaner for the best
response and power.
-What you get is a YZ250 powerband that is smoother and easier to control and less likely to detonate
on pump gas.
-This is a great mod for off road enduro type riding, slippery conditions and people who just want a less
violent powerband hit.
Think of it as a free flywheel that fixes your detonation as a bonus.
-My 1.0 degree retardation was more for a reduction of the detonation than to change the power
characteristics.
I couldn't tell a power difference at 1.0 degree of retardation from stock. You really have to go to 2
degrees to feel the powerband change.
This is another benefit. For the guys that like the hit and mid range punch, you can back off the timing
1-2 degrees and just take care of the detonation. The guys that want the power change can go 2+
degrees to get both.
-I will be posting a great source for timing indicators next week as I'm testing a couple of them to get
the best one. These will be very affordable.
The Procedure:
-Remove the flywheel cover and spark plug.
-Maneuver the dial indicator into the spark plug hole and screw the collar all the way into the hole with
the set screw loose.
-When the collar is tight, back it out to access the set screw and back the indicator the same degrees
backward from your view.
-Tighten the set screw and rotate the indicator/collar back clockwise until tight and seated.
-Rotate the flywheel until you find where the dial indicator reverses.
Rotate the bezel on the indicator to make that point zero.
If the point is on the upper half of the indicator (blocked by the tank) you can rotate the indicator back
counterclockwise
and reset the collar/set screw and retighten and rotate to resnug the assembly so that the needle zeros in
the bottom half of the scale.
This sounds like a pain but it is very easy and intuitive once you do it a few times.
-Now that you have zero, rotate the flywheel clockwise (backwards) until the indicator moves .007 in.
This is 7 graduations since the scale is in .001 increments. This is the stock setting.
-Look at the timing mark on the bottom of the flywheel. Are they aligned?
If not, align them exactly. Look back at the dial indicator. How far is it from zero?
This was the true timing your bike was at. Mine was at .0095 or about 1 degree advanced (see table
below).
-Decide what you want to do. Stock? Remove some advance? How many degrees of removal etc.? (see
table below)
-There are three stator screws to loosen on the stator. Use a large phillips, not a medium sized one.
A medium sized one won't fully seat and you'll damage the screws and be...uh...screwed.
-The screws are tight from the factory. Use either an impact screwdriver or your large phillips and tap
the driver lightly with a
hammer multiple times to unseize the screws. This made a big difference on my bike and I didn't have
to use ludicrous force to loosen them
-Once you decide where you want the timing using the table below, rotate the flywheel so that the
indicator is at that position.
-After loosening the stator screws just enough to move the stator, align the stator with your new
flywheel position
using the timing mark under the flywheel. Tighten the stator screws and exercise the flywheel back and
forth and reset it to your timing spec
on the indicator and recheck the alignment of the flywheel mark and stator timing mark. They should
be aligned. Reset if needed.
-Scary step
Rotate the flywheel slightly back and forth very slowly and notice if there is any delay or lag of the
indicator to move as you reverse the flywheel direction.
If the indicator fails to move momentarily, you may have just saved your head, cylinder and case.
There should be no noticable clearance on the big and small end bearings, which would show up in the
indicator not moving as you reverse it's rotation.
If you do have clearance ie. lag or delayed movement in the indicator while reversing direction, it is
strongly recommended
that you remove the cylinder and check your rod small and big end bearing clearances.
If the indicator moves directly with the reversal of the flywheel rotation, you're bottom end clearances
are good.
-Remove the indicator, reinstall the flywheel cover, spark plug and cap.
-Go roost!
Table of Indicator Readings to Advance Specs.
.027 5 degrees advanced
.010 1 degree advanced
.007 Stock Setting
.004 1 degree retarded
.002 2 degrees retarded
.001 3 degrees retarded
.000 5 degrees retarded (the limit of travel of my stator)
-.001 7 degrees retarded (the 3 to 5 and 5 to 7 jump are correct due to rod angle)
-.002 8 degrees retarded
For guys that just want to remove detonation, start at 1 degree retarded and then go to 2 degrees if
needed
For guys that want a powerband change, start at 2 degrees retarded and then go to 3 degrees if needed.
The other numbers are just for ref. and range in case your's is off substantially.
PS Someone who actually wants more hit and an explosive mid range could go
to 1 degree advanced and then try 2 degrees advanced and 3 degrees advanced
This should only be tried with at least a 50% race gas mixture.
The 3 degrees advanced position will most likely require 100% race gas.
Be very aware of detonation before long term use in this configuration
long rod yz
I bought the bike with all the work already done, so I can't compare the difference each mod makes.
Here's what I have going on.....
It uses a rod from a 2000 KTM 250SX (00-03 SX, or 00-05 EXC).
KTM rod = 129.0 mm, YZ250 = 125.0 mm long
The addition of a cylinder spacer and the extra base gasket brings porting back into alignment.
03+ KTM 250SX piston (domed). I run a 05 piston because they went two-ring.
Modified head
Porting, case matching
V-force 3

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Made this a little project to help TT'ers with detonation and timing factors.

This came about for two reasons.

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