KIPOR Inverter Generator Troubleshooting Guide

Customer:
Case #:

When was it sold?

Generator: KGE

serial #

Step one is to determine the problem? Once you have this information, go to the related section.

Section 1- Fuel related problems

1.
2.
3.
4.

Fuel leak
Fuel flow
Stepping motor
Valve adjustment

Section 2- Generator wont start

1.
2.
3.
4.

No Start, Cranks, has spark & fuel.

Choke pin
Alternator
Ignition timing

Section 3- No Start, no spark.

1. No Start, Cranks, has no spark.
2. Low oil switch
3. Spark plug
4. Ignition winding
5. Ignition coil

Section 4-_No Start, no crank. (3000-3500Ti only)

1. No start- no crank
2. Battery low ( does not hold a charge)
3. No electric start

Section 5- No AC Output (Inverter series)

1. No AC

Section 11-

Fuel Leak

For the 3000/3500Ti, it could be the valve or it could be the tank leaking between the brass fitting
and the plastic tank. Both are replaceable. Determine which is leaking and either part is
replaceable.
Result:
For all generators, check all fuellines, valve, pump and carburetor
Result:

2- Fuel Flow.

Open the drain screw on the bottom of the carburetor, do you get a steady flow of
fuel? If so, there is no blockage. If no fuel flow, blockage may be the case. It is possible that you
have a partial blockage which allows fuel to flow to the carb, giving the appearance of a steady
supply, when in fact it is there but is not enough to meet the demand of the engine. Check for
kinks in the fuel line.
Result:
It is also possible that there is a blockage in the carb. Try removing the bowl on the bottom of the
carb and then removing the float and turning on the fuel. This will allow fuel to flow freely thru the
carb. This is a very simple process. However, it may be easier to remove the carburetor first. Be
careful to not damage the gasket. Clean the parts and replace them and try again to see if the
unit will run properly. It could also be a plugged fuel filter. For the 1000 and 2000Ti it is located in
the gas tank were the fuel line is connected. For the 3000Ti you have to take the fuel valve off
and it should come out attached to the valve.
Result:
For the 1000 and 2000Ti there is a vacuum gas pump. This pump is activated by a vacuum tube
connected to the motor housing situated under the carburetor. Make sure that this tube is
connected properly.

3- Stepping Motor (Electric Throttle Actuator)

Does the stepping motor respond when the

inverter module is trying to change the engine speed when more load is applied? Does the
stepping motor try to adjust the carb and is unable to or does the carb respond properly to the
stepping motor but it still makes no difference? Depending on your answer, it could be the
stepping motor or the carb. Spaying WD40 on the linkage and moving it manually might free it up.
Result::
Measuring the resistance of stepping motor leading wires
Specified resistance

1 and 3 45~55
2 and 4 45~55

Replace the stepping motor if the resistance value exceeds the specified range.

Result: Resistance 1 and 3:

4- Valves.

Resistance 2 and 4:

It is also possible that they have improperly adjusted valves. The required clearance
is listed in the owners manual. Check and adjust if necessary.
Result:

Section 21-No Start, Cranks, has spark & fuel.

Do any lights come on while trying to start? If so, which ones?
Yes:

No:

Does it fire and begin to run, and then die? Or does it never fire?
Result:

2- Choke pin (3000-3500Ti only).

Its possible that the choke pin that fell out. Look under the
choke plate for a pin operating the choke mechanism. If not, change the choke plate and the
choke cable.
Result:

3- Alternator.

It could be the alternator. At the inverter, disconnect the large 6p plug that has
only 5 wires. With the meter in Diode Checking mode, check continuity between the two white
wires (pins 3 & 6). Reading must be 0.000.
Reading:

4- Ignition Timing.

It could be ignition timing. Does it backfire or occasionally fire and then

die? This cannot currently be checked without disassembly. But if it occasionally backfires, it is a
likely the cause.
Yes:

No:

Section 31- No Start, Cranks, has no spark.

For 1000-2000Ti
Do you hear a click when you turn the engine switch to on?
Yes:

No:

If no, the micro switch is not operating properly. It could be a wire stopping it from moving or
could be dirty. Clean with a non flammable pressurized cleaner like electrical contact cleaner.
If it still doesnt operate, change the micro switch.
For all models
Do any lights come on while trying to start?
Yes:

No:

Which one:

2- Low Oil Switch. It could be the low oil switch if the low oil light is coming on and the unit will
not start. The oil switch might be stuck. 1- Check the oil level. 2- Unplug the oil switch and run
the engine for 2 minutes. 3- Reconnect the oil switch with the engine running. 4- Check for a
damaged wire (shorting to ground). The wire is orange coming out of the ignition module. It
connects to a yellow wire near the motor that passes thru the crankcase. 5- Remove the control
panel and disconnect the 10p plug that goes into the back of the ignition module. Check for
continuity between the orange wire and ground. There should be none. It should show O.L. for
Open Line. If there is continuity, either the wire is shorted or pinched somewhere, or the switch
is faulty
Low oil switch connector for 1000-2000Ti
Orange Yellow/green.
Bottom right door opened

Low oil switch connector for 3000Ti new

model. Orange wires- bottom right
behind the battery.

Result:

Low oil switch connector for 3500Ti older

green model-connectors. Right side under
the starter.

3- Spark plug. Check, adjust or change the spark plug.

Result:

4- Ignition Windings.

It could be the ignition system. Remove the control panel and unplug the
10p connector that goes to the ignition module (module with 3 lights). Check continuity between
ground and green. There should be continuity. Check continuity between ground and yellow.
There should be in the area of 86 ohms resistance. If either or both of these are faulty, there
could be a loose wire or bad ignition winding. This requires complete disassembly.
Result:

Readings: Ground and green:

Ground and yellow:

5- Ignition Coil.

Unplug the 10p connector that goes to the ignition module (module with 3
lights). To check the primary side of the ignition coil, check continuity between ground and blue
wire. There should be a reading between 0.7 and 3.5 ohms. To check the secondary side of the
ignition coil, unplug the spark plug wire and check continuity between the blue wire and spark
plug wire. There should be a reading between 12.0 and 21.0 k-ohms. If either or both of these are
faulty, there could be a loose wire or bad ignition coil. For 1000 and 2000Ti the coil can be
changed. The 3000/3500Ti requires complete disassembly.
Result: Readings: Ground and blue:

Blue and spark plug wire:

6- Ignition module. If all of the above are correct it could be the ignition module. (Module with 3
lights) We have no tests for this module. Change the module.

Section 41- No Start, no crank. (3000-3500Ti only)

Check battery voltage. You should read 12-14 VDC. If not, charge the battery and try starting.
Result:
Check battery connections. They must be clean and tight.
Result:
Check 2p connector just inside the door. It must be plugged in securely.
Result:
Check voltage at the starter relay, before cranking. There should be voltage only at the large
post that has the battery cable attached to it. If there is no voltage, check the cable and
connections. Turn the key to the start position and check for voltage at the second large terminal
(Starter side)
Result:
If voltage is not present at both large posts (1214 volts), either the relay or the ignition switch is
faulty. Disconnect the 2p plug, near the door and check for voltage between the yellow wire and
ground making sure the switch is turned to the start position. If voltage is present replace the start
relay. If no voltage is present replace the ignition switch.
Result:
If voltage is present at both large posts, the problem is in the starter motor or the cable leading to
it. If the first test for the relay checks out OK, make sure the 2p plug is securely reconnected and
check voltage at the large post that is connected to the cable that goes to the starter motor while
cranking. If there is no voltage, the relay is faulty. Replace it. If there is voltage, and all of the
above items are all working properly, the problem is in the starter motor or the cable leading to it.
Remove the end panel and check for secure connections and/or damage in the cable. If no
damage is found and connections are good, remove the cabinet and check the connection and
voltage at the starter. If there is voltage and the connection is good, and no cranking, the starter
motor is faulty
Result:

2- Battery low (does not hold a charge)

If the battery will not hold voltage, either the battery or the 12vdc charge circuit is faulty. Check
the battery using a battery tester. If faulty, replace the battery. If good, unplug the battery, start
the engine with the pull cord and test the voltage at the battery connectors. It should read 12.5 to
13.5volts. If not, remove the control panel and check the fuse on the purple wire. If the fuse is
good, the 12vdc regulator is the likely culprit. Either can be replaced.
Result:

3- No Electric Start.
Check battery voltage. Should be12-14 VDC, if not, charge the battery and try starting.
Check battery connections. They must be clean and tight.
Check the plug connections on the back of the ignition switch.
Fig. 1

1. If all of the above are correct you will need to remove the front control end
panel and check 2p connector, it must be plugged in securely. (fig. 1)

2.

Check voltage at the starter relay (bottom left side fig. 2) before cranking.
There should be (1214 volts) only at the large post that has the battery
cable attached to it- Fig. 3-A. If there is no voltage, check the cable and
connections. Turn the key to the start position and check for voltage at the
starter terminal (fig. 3-B)

3. If voltage is not present (1214 volts) either the relay or the ignition switch is
faulty. Disconnect the 2p plug, near the door and check for voltage between
the yellow wire (fig. 4-A) and the yellow w/green strip, ground wire (fig. 4-B)
there should be (1214 volts) when the ignition switch in the start position. If
voltage is present replace the start relay. If no voltage is present replace the
ignition switch. If voltage is present at both large posts, the problem is in the
starter motor or the cable leading to it.

Fig. 2

Start
Relay

Fig. 3
B
A

Fig. 4
A

4. If the first tests for the relay and ignition switch checks out OK, then make
sure the 2p plug is securely reconnected. Remove the cabinet and check the
connection and voltage at the starter. If there is no voltage, check the cable
and connection. If there is voltage and the connection is good, and no
cranking, the starter motor is faulty,

Section 51-

No AC Output (Inverter series)

This could be a loose wire from the inverter to the receptacles. On KGE3000Ti, remove the end
panel and look down by the lower, right corner, as they face the control panel. On the KGE1000
and 2000Ti this is located behind the control panel. Check to see if the red and black wires are
securely plugged in and the wires are securely attached to the receptacles.

KGE3000Ti

KGE1000 / 2000

KGE3000Ti Receptacles

Receptacle

If no problems are found on the steps above;

Next, there is a large 6 position connector that actually has only 5 wires in it, that plugs into the
back of the inverter.
Unplug the connector from the inverter and start the engine, check voltage between pins 1 & 4,
between pins 2 & 4, and between pins 1 & 2. They should be approximately 300vac at each test.
If one or more of the three tests fail, the problem is either a damaged wire harness or a defective
alternator. If the wire harness is the problem, look for and repair the damage. If the alternator is
the problem, the stator and rotor will need to be replaced. If all three tests are OK, the problem is
likely the inverter.
Inverter