Flamingo-Junior en
Flamingo-Junior en
Flamingo-Junior en
#0062442
Contents
Introduction
Kit contents
Specification
RC functions
Note: gluing with epoxy
Fuselage and tail
Fuselage openings
Installing the tow-hook
Installing the canopy latch
The tailplane clamp
Completing the fin and rudder
Installing the servo plate - glider version
Completing the control surface linkages in the fuselage
Electric version
Battery support
Installing the servo plate (electric)
Installing the receiving system - glider version
Installing the servos in the fuselage
Installing the On / Off switch
Installing the receiver
Installing the battery
Installing the receiving system - electric version
Installing the motor
Installing the speed controller
Installing the battery
Installing the receiver
Installing the servos in the fuselage
Wings
Fuselage / wing transition
Preparing the wings for triple-axis control (ailerons)
Installing working ailerons
Installing the aileron servos
Installing the aileron horns
Setting the wing dihedral
Electrical connections
The finish
Deploying the aerial(s)
For 35 MHz operation
For 2.4GHz operation
Setting-up
Centre of Gravity and longitudinal dihedral
Control surface settings (normal flying, landing)
The first flight
Test-flying
Range-checking
For 35 MHz operation
For 2.4 GHz operation
The first flight
Flat-field flying
Flying at the slope
Safety, the fascination of it all
Appendix
Recommended RC equipment
Parts list, pictures, sketches
# 41545
# 41555
Introduction
Dear fellow-modeller,
We are delighted that you have decided to build our Flamingo Junior model glider, and we are confident that you will have many hours or pleasure and success with this small fun-model. TANGENT
model kits from the GRAUPNER stable are sophisticated designs, and are the result of many years of
practical experience. With these products you obtain far more than just a model: you benefit from consistent long-term product maintenance, standardised production techniques and carefully managed
quality, and this is your guarantee of a reliable product and the highest quality of service over a period
of many years.
Although we carry out conscientious quality control procedures, it is always possible that kit components will exhibit minor deviations or imperfections. We therefore ask you to check all components
before use, as we cannot exchange parts which you have already modified. If any component is not
satisfactory, we will gladly correct the fault or replace it after checking. Please send the component to
our Service department together with the completed complaints return form, and be sure to include a
brief description of the defect.
We are constantly working on the technical development of our models, and for this reason we must
reserve the right to alter the kit contents in terms of shape, dimensions, technology, materials and
features. Please understand that we cannot entertain claims based on statements and illustrations in
these instructions.
Important safety notes during construction
You have acquired a kit which can be assembled into a fully working RC model when fitted out with
suitable accessories. However, we as manufacturers have no control over the way you build and fly
your RC model aircraft, nor how you install, operate and maintain the associated components, and for
this reason we are obliged to deny all liability for loss, damage or costs which are incurred due to the
incompetent or incorrect use and operation of our products, or which are connected with such
operation in any way. Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the GRAUPNER
company to pay compensation, regardless of the legal argument employed, is excluded. This includes
personal injury, death, damage to buildings, damage due to loss of business or turnover, interruption
of business or other direct or indirect consequent damage whose root cause was the operation of the
model. Our total liability in all cases is limited to the amount of money which you actually paid for this
model.
This model aeroplane is built and flown at the sole and express responsibility of the operator. The only
way to avoid injury to persons and damage to property is to handle and operate the model with the
greatest care and consideration at all times.
When handling adhesives and solvent-based materials it is important to observe the safety notes and
instructions supplied by the manufacturer. Many glues and solvents are capable of causing injury and
damage to materials if they are not used competently. Take waste glue and paint to your local model
shop or toxic waste collection centre.
Note that balsa knives, pins, etc. have sharp points and edges, and should be handled carefully to
avoid injury. Take care to keep tools, adhesives and paints out of the reach of children. A large, unobstructed working surface is a great advantage for all types of model-making. If you are a relative
beginner and are not sure of any process, it is always best to ask an experienced modeller for help.
The following points are important and must be observed at all times:
Before you fly the model check that the radio control system is working reliably, and that all
connections are secure.
The batteries must be charged and the range of the radio control system must be checked
before you operate the model. In particular, the radio control system batteries must be fully
charged before each session.
Ensure that the channel you intend to use is not already in use by other modellers. Never fly
the aeroplane if you are not certain that your channel is free.
Read and observe the instructions and recommendations provided by the manufacturer of
your radio control system and accessory components.
Ensure that the servos are not mechanically obstructed at any point in their travel.
Dry cells and rechargeable batteries must never be short-circuited.
Remove all batteries from the model prior to transporting and storing it.
Do not subject the aircraft to dirty or cold conditions, or high levels of humidity or heat.
Secure the model and your RC equipment carefully when transporting them. They may be
seriously damaged if they are free to slide about.
Important: when the flight battery is exhausted, you must not dispose of it in the household
waste. Take the pack to your local battery reclamation centre.
Important: when the useful life of the model and the transmitter are over, do not discard them
in the domestic rubbish. The electric and electronic components in particular must be taken to
your nearest electrical recycling centre. Ask your local authority if you are not sure of its
location.
Kit contents
1 Pair of wings, film-covered, with window lightening technology and 3D wingtips, ailerons prepared for
triple-axis control, factory-fitted joiner system incorporated into full-depth spar, Multi-Wing wing
retainer system
1 GRP fuselage, pure white finish, with Multi-Wing wing retainer system, factory-fitted all-moving tailplane bellcrank, pre-fitted tail post, factory-installed control snake sleeves (electric version: motor bulkhead installed)
1 Set of tailplane panels with installed joiner tubes and 3D tips
1 Rudder
1 Set of laser-cut wooden parts for RC installation
1 Bag of high-quality CONTESTLINE accessories
Specification, RC functions
Specification:
Wingspan approx.
Fuselage length
Wing area
Weight
Wing section
Longitudinal dihedral approx.
Centre of Gravity approx.
2250 mm
990 mm
35 dm
min. 1250 g (glider)
min. 1450 g (electric)
CY 11 %
2
60 - 65 mm
Notes on adhesives
It is essential to avoid using solvent-based glues for any joint in which the adhesive comes into contact
with the styrofoam wing core. This applies in particular to cyano-acrylates, as these materials immediately attack the foam and cause large-scale damage; in most cases the component is rendered
unusable. Use only solvent-free adhesives; we recommend UHU plus Endfest (slow-setting epoxy
resin) or epoxy laminating resin thickened with chopped cotton strands. Do not use 5-minute epoxy for
joints which are vital to airframe integrity, or for crucial control linkages!
Epoxy laminating resin is not an effective adhesive on its own. These resins only work well as glues
when thickened with various additives. You can adjust the qualities of your adhesive by choosing the
appropriate additive to suit your application:
1. Chopped cotton strands produce a tough, flexible joint - ideal for highly stressed areas.
2. Super-fine glass fibres produce a rock-solid joint which is easy to sand. An excellent
choice for joints which are not subject to severe mechanical stress.
3. Micro-balloons transform epoxy resin into a lightweight filler paste - ideal for areas
where the mechanical stress is low or non-existent.
Tip: a good alternative is to use a milling bit in a small hand-held electric drill.
Installing the tow-hook (glider version)
Use a flexible ruler to measure a point on the underside of the fuselage 300 millimetres from the
extreme nose. Drill a central hole for the tow-hook at this point using a 2.5 mm bit. Temporarily
apply tape over the hole on the outside of the fuselage, then roughen the moulding on the inside
around the hole. Glue the hardwood support block centrally over the hole using plenty of UHU plus
Endfest 300.
Graupner GmbH & Co. KG * Henriettenstrae 94-96 * 73230 Kirchheim *
www. Graupner. de www. TangentModelltechnik.com
The rudder
Use a 6 mm round file to open up the recess in the rudder pushrod fairing.
Measure two points on the leading edge of the fin, working from the bottom: one 30 mm from the
bottom, the second 170 mm from the first; these are the point-hinge locations. Use a 3 mm bit to drill
the holes for the hinges. Temporarily insert the point-hinges in the holes, and mark matching points on
the tail post (trailing edge of fin). Drill the holes, then glue the point-hinges in place.
Allow the glue to set hard before gluing the horn in the rudder: bend the rear end of the rudder pushrod at right-angles, slip the horn on the angled end, and mark the horns position on the rudder. Drill a
small hole in the rudder, ensuring that the linkage hole lines up correctly with the hinge pivot axis.
The tailplane
The bellcrank for the all-moving tailplane is already installed and ready to use. The two tailplane
panels are attached to the fuselage using the 2 mm steel joiner rods supplied: pass the front rod
through the front hole in the fin, and the rear rod through the moving end of the bellcrank, accessed
through the curved slots. If the rear rod catches slightly in the machined slot at any point, gently use
a small file to clean up the slots edges. The two tailplane panels can now be pushed onto the steel
rods on both sides. When you are satisfied, remove the rear joiner rod and bend it to a very slight Sshape; this acts as a clamp, preventing the tailplane panels sliding outwards on the joiners.
Installing the servo plate for the glider version / Installing the receiving system - GLIDER
Before the RC plate is glued in place, the special internal lining material known as peel ply must first
be removed from both inside faces of the fuselage: removing the peel ply produces a rough surface
which provides a mechanical key for the adhesive, and ensures sound joints.
Cut down the servo output arms as shown in the photo, then set the servos to centre from the transmitter and fit the output arms on the servo shafts, at right-angles to the servo cases. Temporarily
mount the servos and the On / Off switch in the RC plate, and place this assembly in the fuselage. The
position of the plate is dictated by the size of the receiver battery: check that it is possible to fit the
pack into the fuselage nose between the front edge of the RC plate and the canopy recess.
You may need to shorten the rudder and elevator pushrods: when the linkages are set up correctly,
both control surfaces should be at neutral (centre) when the servos are also at neutral. Please refer to
the section entitled Control surface travels / pushrod connections at this point.
Graupner GmbH & Co. KG * Henriettenstrae 94-96 * 73230 Kirchheim *
www. Graupner. de www. TangentModelltechnik.com
When you are satisfied, tack the servo plate to the fuselage with a few drops of cyano, then remove
the servos from the plate. The servo plate can now be glued securely to both sides of the fuselage
with a neat fillet of epoxy.
Installing the servo plate for the electric version / Installing the receiving system - ELECTRIC
The speed controller should be installed directly below the RC plate. Please note that the controller
must not be packed in foam or a heat-shrink sleeve, otherwise it could overheat. It is simply held in
place with a little Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape, which should be glued to the bottom of the fuselage.
Glue the battery support plate to the fuselage cradle immediately aft of the speed controller using UHU
Plus Endfest 300. The flight pack itself is fixed to the battery plate using Velcro tape.
10
Before the RC plate is glued in place, the special internal lining material known as peel ply must first
be removed from both inside faces of the fuselage. Removing the peel ply produces a rough surface
which provides a mechanical key for the adhesive, and ensures sound joints.
Cut down the servo output arms as shown in the photo, then set the servos to centre from the transmitter and fit the output arms on the servo shafts, at right-angles to the servo cases. The receiver can
also be attached to the RC plate aft of the servos using Velcro tape. Temporarily mount the servos in
the RC plate, and place this assembly in the fuselage.
You may need to shorten the rudder and elevator pushrods: when the linkages are set up correctly,
both control surfaces should be at neutral (centre) when the servos are at neutral. Please refer to the
section entitled Control surface travels / pushrod connections at this point.
When you are satisfied, tack the servo plate to the fuselage with a few drops of cyano, then remove
the servos from the plate. The servo plate can now be glued securely to both sides of the fuselage
with a neat fillet of epoxy.
Wings
The fuselage / wing transition
The Flamingo Junior features a floating wing joiner system, i.e. the joiner rod itself does not touch the
fuselage. The hole for the wing joiner should therefore be 1 mm larger all round than the diameter of
the joiner rod (open up the holes with a file if necessary).
The joiner takes the form of an 8 mm GRP rod. The fuselage is suspended between the wings on
two steel dowels, or incidence pegs, and it is therefore necessary work accurately when drilling the
holes for the dowels - take care to drill exactly at 90.
11
Pilot-holes for the incidence pegs and the Multilock pin are already present in the wing root ribs. Open
up the pilot-holes, push the steel dowels and the Multilock pin in the openings, and check that the
wings are a snug fit against the fuselage.
Fit the tailplane panels again, and check that the wings line up correctly with the tailplane when
viewed from the nose or tail. When you are confident that all is well, the incidence pegs and the Multilock can be glued in place. Press the Multilock pins into the Multilock sockets in the fuselage, and
mask out the area around the wing retainer with adhesive tape, to prevent glue residues penetrating
into the clamp section. Now fill the holes in the wing roots for the incidence pegs and the Multilock pins
with thickened epoxy, and push the pegs and the wing retainers in the holes. Fit the wings on the
fuselage with the help of the wing joiner, and tape the parts together while the glue sets hard.
Tip: use a disposable syringe to fill the holes with resin.
Preparing the wings for triple-axis control (ailerons)
1. Installing working ailerons / completing the aileron hinges
Use a setsquare or an engineers square to mark the line of a 90 cut at each end of the
machined aileron slot. Using a hacksaw blade, cut along the marked lines as far as the
machined slot.
Now slit the film covering along the centre of the V-shaped channel using a balsa knife. You
will find a few locating lugs in the channel, which have to be removed using a balsa knife.
Please take care not to damage the film on the top surface of the wing airfoil when you do this.
12
Now fold the aileron up as far as it will go, and press the excess film into the machined
channel using the back of a knife. The film strips supplied in the kit can now be applied inside
the open V-shaped channel to act as a hinge doubler.
Glue the horn in the aileron using two-pack adhesive, taking care to produce a strong joint.
Repeat the procedure with the second aileron.
The servo recesses in the wings are machine-cut, but you may need to make them deeper to
accommodate your servos; this is accomplished by removing more foam within the recess.
13
Cut down the aileron servo output arms as shown in the photo, and drill out the outermost hole
in each one using a 1.6 mm bit to suit the thickness of the pushrod.
Switch the RC system on and set the aileron servos to centre. Press the prepared output arms
on the servo shafts and fit the retaining screws. Before the servos are glued to the well covers
the connecting leads must be soldered to the extension leads, which are already in place in
the wings; the servo mounting lugs also have to be removed. When soldering the servo leads,
remember to join like-coloured wires. Insulate each soldered joint individually with a piece of
heat-shrink sleeve; remember to fit the sleeves on the wires before soldering the joints.
The servos can now be glued to the well covers, with the output arms positioned in the centre
of the pushrod fairings, after thoroughly sanding the well cover and the servo case using abrasive paper. We recommend cyano, Order No. 5821, for these joints, but in this case it is
essential to position the servo accurately, as it is not possible to make subsequent adjustments when using cyano.
CAUTION! If you are using medium-viscosity cyano you must take particular care to avoid the
adhesive running into the servo gearbox and jamming the gears.
The aileron pushrods are made from the pre-formed 1.6 mm rods supplied in the kit. The
plain end of the aileron pushrods must be bent at right-angles in such a way that the distance
between the linkage hole at the servo and the horn hole is about 65 mm. Check that both
servos and ailerons are at neutral.
Now connect the pushrods to the aileron horns, and push the plastic keepers (pushrod
retainers) into place. Fix the servo well covers to the wings using the countersunk screws supplied, after drilling pilot-holes for the screws.
Tip: for improved aerodynamic efficiency we recommend countersinking the holes.
14
The inboard wing panels should now be fixed temporarily to the workbench, e.g. by weighting
them down with a few books (caution: dont dent the wings!). Now carefully and slowly raise
the outboard wing panels until the extreme tip is around 90 mm above the bench surface.
Pack up the wingtip at this level, using a stack of books or similar, then remove the books
again and lay the tip panel flat. Use a disposable syringe to fill the machined slot with UHU
Plus 300 endfest, then raise the tip panel again, place the books under the tip, and make sure
nothing can shift while the glue is curing. Any excess resin on the surface of the film must be
wiped away IMMEDIATELY, because it cannot be removed once the epoxy has cured !!!
Tip: it is a good idea to apply paper masking tape along both edges of the joint, so that the
excess glue is squeezed out onto the tape. Remove the tape again while the epoxy is still soft.
When the glue has set hard, apply the strips of adhesive film over the joints to improve the
appearance of the transition.
15
Electrical connections
Before the servos can be connected to the receiver, the extension leads in the wings have to be
soldered to servo extension leads with plug, Order No.: 3935.11. The servo connectors can now be
passed through the hole in the wing root fairing and routed to the receiver.
The finish
Cut out the decals from the decal sheet supplied in the kit, and apply them to the model as follows:
Moisten the wing surface with a little soapy water, then carefully slide the decal into place. You can
now adjust its position to a small extent, as it slides on the layer of water. Allow the decal to dry out
thoroughly, then press it down lightly once more using a soft, dry cloth.
-8 mm down
+30 mm right
-10 mm down
16
Important:
When installing and setting up the control surface linkages it is vital to ensure that they work smoothly,
are able to carry out their full movement - including trim travel - without being impeded, and are not
mechanically obstructed at any point.
When you move the rudder stick to the right, the rudder should also deflect to the right (left stick: left
rudder). If you pull the elevator stick back towards you, the trailing edge of both tailplane panels
should deflect up (stick forward: elevator down). Move the aileron stick to the right, and the right-hand
aileron should deflect up, the left-hand aileron down.
17
If necessary adjust the trims to achieve straight flight and a reasonable cruising speed. The next step
is to fly turns alternately to left and right to check the models turning characteristics, the harmonisation
(balance) between ailerons, elevator and rudder, and the aileron differential.
If you still have plenty of height you should check the Centre of Gravity right at this early stage. The
procedure for CG testing described here is a method of fine-tuning the models balance. It can only
work when air movements are slight, and when the initial CG position is exactly correct. It is bound to
fail if the model is a long way out of balance and / or there is a strong wind. In breezy conditions it is
difficult to set up the model for normal cruise speed, as it is hard to judge its speed relative to the
surrounding air.
Trim the model carefully for normal cruising speed, which should be comfortably above stalling speed.
The model should show no tendency to hunt up and down, or mush along close to the stall. Now assuming that you have plenty of height in hand - apply full down-elevator briefly to place the model in
a vertical dive. Immediately centre the stick and watch the aeroplane carefully.
The CG is correct if it recovers to normal flight in a broad, gentle curving arc (100 m) by itself.
The CG is too far forward if the model bounces up again immediately and climbs strongly.
Remedy: remove lead ballast from the fuselage nose; apply slight down-elevator trim.
The CG is too far aft if the model shows no tendency to recover by itself - the dive may even become
steeper.
Remedy: immediately recover the model with gentle up-elevator. Add a little lead ballast to the fuselage nose, fix it securely, and apply a little up-trim.
Flat-field flying
Flat-field flying is relatively non-hazardous since there is no risk of the model landing out at the foot
of the hill, as with slope soaring.
Nevertheless, making the best use of flat field thermals is not particularly easy, and calls for
considerable skill and experience. Areas of rising air are harder to detect and recognise at a flat field,
because they tend to occur at higher altitude than at the hillside, where it is often possible to find lift
while the model is cruising along the edge of the slope and then circle away in it. A thermal at a flat
field which occurs directly overhead is very hard to recognise, and exploiting it to the full requires a
highly skilled pilot. For this reason it is always best to go thermal seeking off to one side of where you
are standing. You will recognise thermal contact by the models behaviour. Good thermals are obvious
because the model will climb strongly, but it takes a practised eye to detect weak thermals, and you
will need a lot of skill to make use of them. With a little practice you will be able to recognise likely
trigger points for thermals in the local landscape. The ground warms up in the suns heat, but heat
absorption varies according to the type of terrain and the angle of the suns rays. The air over the
warmer ground becomes warmer in turn, and the mass of warm air flows along close to the ground,
driven by any breeze. Any obstruction - a shrub or tree, a fence, the edge of a wood, a hill, a passing
car, even your own model on the landing approach - may cause this warm air to leave the ground and
rise. Imagine a drop of water on the ceiling, wandering around aim-lessly, and initially remaining stuck
to the ceiling. If it strikes an obstruction it will fall on your head. A triggered thermal can be imagined as
the opposite of the drop of water.
The most obvious thermal triggers include sharply defined snow fields on mountain slopes. The air
above the snow field is cooled, and flows downhill; at the edge of the snow field, part-way down the
valley, the cool air meets warm air flowing gently uphill, and pushes it up and away as if cut off by a
knife. The result is an extremely powerful but bumpy thermal bubble. The pilots task is to locate the
rising warm air and centre your model in it. You will need to control the glider constantly to keep it
centred, as you can expect the most rapid climb rate in the core of the thermal. Once again, this
technique does demand some skill.
To avoid losing sight of the model be sure to leave the thermal in good time. Bear in mind that the
aircraft is always easier to see under a cloud than against a clear blue sky. If you have to lose height
in a hurry, do bear the following in mind: the Flamingo Junior is a robust beginners model, but not a
high-performance aircraft. The airframe strength is finite, i.e. a steep dive followed by an abrupt pullout may result in the loss of the model.
Graupner GmbH & Co. KG * Henriettenstrae 94-96 * 73230 Kirchheim *
www. Graupner. de www. TangentModelltechnik.com
18
19
Recommended RC equipment
Rudder and elevator
Ailerons
RC system
DES 586 BB
DES 586 BB
Four-channel system
We - the GRAUPNER / TANGENT Modellsport team - wish you as many hours of pleasure in building
and flying your new model as we have had.
GRAUPNER / TANGENT Modellsport
Dieter Br Model Development
20
Appendix
Parts List
Kit contents
Quantity
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Description
Canopy
Pair of wing panels
Pair of tailplane panels
Rudder
Contest fittings bag
Wing joiner
Laser-cut wooden parts set
GRP fuselage
Building instructions
Decal sheet
Servolock set
Note
Vac. moulded
Ready made, ARF
Ready made, ARF
Ready made, ARF
Parts List
Ready made / GRP
Parts List
Ready made
Monochrome printed
Screen-printed
ABS / Parts List
Description
Aerial sleeve
Velcro tape
Multilock wing retainer
Incidence peg
Pushrod keeper
Point-hinge
Horn
Tailplane joiner rod
Control surface pushrod
Wing joiner
Canopy retaining spring
Tow-hook
Application
2.4 GHz aerial guide
Receiver mounting
Wing retention
Wing joiner part
Horn retainer
Rudder hinge
Aileron / rudder linkages
Tailplane joiner
Aileron linkage
Wing joiner
Canopy retainer
Glider launch aid
Material
ABS tube
Hook / loop tape
Plastic
Spring steel
Plastic
Plastic
Plastic
Spring steel
Spring steel
GRP rod
ABS strip
Steel
Dimensions
3/2 x approx. 70 mm
approx. 25 x 70 mm
Ready made
3 x 40 mm
Ready made
Ready made
Ready made
2 x 80 mm
1.6 x 100 mm
8 x 235 mm
Ready made
Ready made
Application
RC installation
Battery mounting
Motor mounting
Dihedral joint cover
Tow-hook support
Aileron gap cover
Material
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Covering film
Hardwood
Covering film
Dimensions
Ready made
Ready made
Ready made
Oversize
Ready made
Oversize
Application
Servo well cover
Servo well cover
Well cover attachment
Material
ABS
ABS
Steel
Dimensions
Ready made
Ready made
2 x 10mm
Servolock set
Qu.
1
1
8
Description
L.H. servo fairing
R.H. servo fairing
Countersunk screw
21
22