Electric Conversion Made Easy

Electric Conversion Made Easy Insider Secrets Revealed - by Gavin Shoebridge
Electric Conversion
Made Easy
- Insider Secrets Revealed -
2009-2010 EvSecrets.com - All Rights Reserved. www.evsecrets.com

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Table Of Contents
Introduction......................................................................................................
p.6
Why Did I Write This Ebook...............................................................................
p.7
How Does An Electric Car Work.........................................................................
p.12
Differences Between An Electric Car And A Gas Powered Car............................
p.12
Other Benefits Of Driving An EV......................................................................... p.13

The Main Components Of An EV......................................................................... p.14
Electric Motor........................................................................................... p.14
Controller................................................................................................. p.15
Battery ................................................................................................... p.16
Gearbox Adapter Plate.............................................................................
p.17
Pot-Box (potentiometer box)
p.18
Main Cable p.19

Circuit Breaker.. p.20
Fuse designed for electric vehicles. p.21
Vacuum Pump p.22
Contactor.
p.23
DC to DC Converter.
p.24
Volt Meter & Amp Meter p.25

Shunt.. p.26
Inertia Switch
p.27
Chapter#1 - Deciding Your Electric Car Needs & Budget. p.31

Range. p.32
Speed.
p.32
Conversion Cost
p.33
Deciding Your Range Needs... p.34

Deciding Speed And Voltage Requirements..
p.35
Deciding Your Budget...
p.35
48 Volt System.. p.36

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96 Volt System.. p.36

144 Volt System p.37
Early Cost Reduction Options...
p.38
Chapter #2 - Selecting a Donor Car. p.39

48 Volt Donor Cars(examples).
p.40
96 Volt Donor Cars(examples).
p.42
144 Volt Donor Cars(examples)..
p.44
Aerodynamics
p.46
Where to buy Seized Cars Up to 95% OFF.
p.48
Chapter #3 - Selecting The Parts & Batteries..
p.49
Capacity...
p.49
6 volt batteries....
p.51
8 volt batteries.
p.52
12 volt batteries..
p.51
Other Battery Alternatives.. p.54

Selecting The Controller..
p.55
Selecting The Motor... p.56

About DC Motors.. p.57
Shunt-Wound Motors. p.59
Series-Wound Motors. p.60
Compound-Wound DC Motors... p.61
Motor Direction.
p.61
New DC Motor Options.. p.63

Finding a Cheap Electric Motor.
p.63
EV Parts List... p.65

Where To Buy New Parts.
p.66
Where To Buy Second Hand Parts..
p.66
Chapter #4 Dismantling the Donor Car
p.67
Tools You'll Require
p.68
Clean Out Your Garage In Preparation. p.68

Take Photos...
p.69
Label All Wiring. p.69

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Draining The Fluids. p.70

Separating The Engine From The Gearbox.
p.71
Removing The Gas Tank..
p.72
Sell Those Old Parts p.72

Removing The Gearbox. p.73
Chapter #5 Planning The Location Of Components. p.74
Chapter #6 Installing the Motor.. p.79
Chapter #7 Installing the Controller.. p.89
Chapter #8 Installing The Components
p.93
Connecting The Potbox. p.93

Meter Installation...
p.95
Fuse Installation.. p.95

Circuit Breaker Installation...
p.96
Inertia Switch Connection & Installation
p.96
The Accessories Battery & DC to DC Converter
p.96
Building Your Own DC To DC Converter..
p.97
Vacuum Brake System Installation. p.10

1
Power Steering Options p.10
2
Air Conditioning Options.. p.10
4
Chapter #9 Installing a Heater.. p.10
5
Chapter #10 Installing the Batteries.
p.11
2
Chapter #11 Wiring Up The Batteries..
p.11
8
Chapter #12 Powering Up Your Electric Vehicle..
p.12
3
Component Checklist.
p.12
8
Chapter #13 Installing Your Charging System.. p.13

3
Mains Powered Pack Charger
p.13
3

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Trunk mounting or external mounting?.................................................... p.13

4
Using the One-Charger-Per-Battery Method.
p.13
6
Chapter #14 Preparing Your Electric Car For The Road p.13
9
Preparing Your EV For Inspection..
p.13
9
How To Get Your EV Insured.
p.14
0
What happens if I get stuck and need help... p.14

1
Introduction
Hi, my name is Gavin Shoebridge and with the help of this ebook
you'll be driving gas-free in just a few months.
First of all, I want to thank you for purchasing this ebook. You've already taken the
first step towards being independent from gasoline from your general daily driving.
Take a moment to imagine driving past the gas station on your way to the mall or
on the way to work, keeping that money in your pocket instead of handing it over
for gas.

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It's a satisfying feeling. I know this because I've already converted a car to run
on electricity. I also know that you already have the necessary skills to convert a
car because I was a complete novice when I started; I could only just change my
own motor oil!
Yup, a couple of years ago I decided to break my own oil addiction. I wanted to
reduce the carbon I was creating by burning 20 gallons of gas each week. I also
wanted to slash my transport costs right down.
I had 2 choices: I could either ride a bicycle everywhere come rain or shine, or I
could take an existing gas car and convert it to electricity. If you're anything like me
you enjoy riding a bike, but you just can't beat a car for convenience, especially
when it's raining.
Why Did I Write This Ebook?

You may be wondering what motivated me to write this ebook.
I actually have a couple of reasons:
Everyone I've met who has converted their car to run on electricity wants to
tell you about their conversion and show you their work. I'm no different; I
want to tell you my story as well.
However, I also want to show you exactly how it's done in a step-by-step

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fashion so that you can do it too.

I want to show you how easy it is to convert a car to run on electricity. A car that
will achieve highway speeds if you desire. A car that can go for 100 miles if you so
wish. A car that looks normal. Not only is it possible - it's actually very easy to do!
The picture above is the car I converted. It's what I'd consider an average
electric car. It had an average top speed of approximately 85 mph, an average
range of approximately 35 miles and an average cost of around $6000 USD.
Don't worry if this sounds out of your price range though. Depending on your
needs, location and creativity, you can quite easily cut this bill in half or even less.
We'll get to all that later. Firstly, let's talk about what an electric car is.
This is an electric car:

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So is this:
And this:

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Ahh, this isn't:
But this is:

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And so is this:
So as you can see, electric vehicles come in all shapes and sizes. Some electric cars
are seriously cool, such as the Tesla Roadster:

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And some are, well, more functional, such as the City El:
How Does An Electric Car Work?

An electric car uses electricity stored in batteries to turn an electric motor which

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turns the wheels. This is similar in concept to using gas stored in a tank to turn an
engine. What are the main parts in an electric car? Not a lot to be honest.
The 3 main parts your EV needs to run are:
#1 An electric motor which powers the wheels,

#2 Batteries which store the electricity, and,
#3 A controller which acts as a floodgate between the batteries and the motor
and is attached to your accelerator.
There are a few other bits such as fuses, a circuit-breaker in case of emergency, a
contactor to start the car's main circuit, a vacuum pump to keep your brake
system working (covered in Chapter #7), and some relays to keep items such as
your heater and your Controller's key-ignition switch operating.
Differences Between An Electric Car And A Gas Powered Car

a) Firstly, there's much less noise and vibration because there's no engine
running. People that aren't used to electric cars get a surprise when you pull up at
the lights. Stopping in an electric car is a bit like going to rap concert: you know
you're there but you just don't really feel or hear anything. Unless you like rap
music of course in which case I apologize!
b) Secondly, there's almost zero maintenance in an electric car, which means no
maintenance costs! You may find yourself topping up the water in your batteries
every couple of months (depending on what batteries you use), but otherwise
there's no oil changes, no filter replacements, no servicing, no spark plugs, no
radiator repairs, no exhaust repairs, no belts, pulleys and fluids to change and best
of all - no more gas! In fact the only time you'll have to go to a gas station is to put
air in your tires. Sounds good, huh?
Are There Other Benefits Of Driving An EV?

There certainly are. Sure, it's quieter and more reliable than a gas-powered car but

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there are still more important reasons to go electric:

Energy independence is one enormous reason. An electric car is not at the
mercy of oil supplies and oil prices originating from the Middle East. Every mile you
drive is powered by locally produced electricity from your own country.
Pollution reduction is another huge reason. Even if your electric car is charging
from coal-fired electricity, the Co2 emissions per mile are approximately 70%
cleaner (based on several studies) than that of a gas-powered car. If your electricity
comes from natural gas, solar, geothermal, hydro or even nuclear then it's even
cleaner still. Electric cars also emit no smog or fumes from an exhaust. Just imagine
sitting in a traffic jam and breathing only fresh air!
Electric cars save you money. One electric vehicle manufacturer said recently
that if you're paying more than $1 per gallon then it works out cheaper to drive an
electric car! It costs literally pennies per mile. This is due to the high efficiency of
electric motors: $1 worth of electricity will move you much further than $1 worth of
gas.
Electric cars have the benefit of high reliability due to a lack of things to go
wrong. You'll never have to repair your exhaust or replace a radiator. You'll never
need servicing or spark plugs replaced. No more belts or pulleys, no more air filters
or fuel filters, no more fuel injection problems or oil changes the list goes on and
on. It all adds up to less expenses which means more money to spend on yourself
instead.
You also have the benefit of recharging your car at home. If you're anything like
me, having to work the gas station into your journey every time your car gets
thirsty is a real pain in the neck. Then there's the waiting for an available pump,
then the queue at the cashier. With an electric car however you can charge your car
at home so it's always full and ready to go as soon as you jump in.
Don't be scared off by misinformed claims that electric cars have a limited range or
top speed the only thing limiting you from owning an electric racing car is your
budget & needs which is what we'll discuss in chapter #1.

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The Main Components Of An EV

Let's run through the necessary components in an EV and I'll explain what each one
does.
Electric Motor
This one's kinda obvious; it's the motor which

propels the car. The beauty of the electric
motor is that it has only one moving part,
unlike the internal combustion engine which has
around a hundred moving parts. This alone
makes electric vehicles a very reliable transport
choice.

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Controller
This is a controller.
Its job is to act as a floodgate between the
motor and the batteries. It's indirectly
connected to your accelerator and the more you
press down, the more power goes to the motor.
This is a vital component without it you'd
have either full power or no power.

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Battery
I'm sure you can guess what that is!

Yup, it's a battery! Batteries are your car's
substitute for a tank of gas. The more battery
capacity available, the more range you get per
charge! This is one area you need to consider
carefully before purchasing - a quality pack of
batteries will last many years if looked after
well.

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Gearbox Adapter Plate
This is a Gearbox Adapter Plate a piece of

metal that will join your electric motor to your
car's existing gearbox. Car gearboxes are not
designed to have electric motors bolt straight
on, so an adapter plate like this is required.

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Pot-Box (potentiometer box)
This is called a Pot-Box

(short for potentiometer box) and is the device
that your accelerator cable connects to. When
you push down on the gas, the arm moves
and the device tells the Controller how much
power to allow to the motor.

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Main Cable
This is the Main Cable which will effectively be

you car's new Fuel line. It's important to get
the right sized cable depending on the current
that your car will use. Using a cable too small
will cause it to heat up under load, increasing
its resistance and choking your performance
and increasing the risk of fire.

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Circuit Breaker
This is a Circuit Breaker a safety switch

designed to switch off in the event of a
short-circuit or accident that causes a battery
overload. It's convenient and also resettable
unlike fuses.

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Fuse designed for electric vehicles
This is a fuse designed for electric vehicles

which is a backup to the circuit breaker. The
average conversion uses at least two fuses for
safety. These are designed to break during in
an overload of short circuit. They generally cost
about $30 to replace.

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Vacuum Pump
This is a vacuum pump and it creates a

vacuum for your brakes to work. Gas engines
create vacuum inside as a byproduct which is
used to operate your car's brakes. Electric
motors don't create any vacuum so a separate
pump is required. Without it you'll find yourself
in a bush on the first corner!

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Contactor
This device is called a contactor. When you turn

the key on your EV, this device clicks the circuit
closed (alive), allowing the high voltage circuit
to operate.
Contactors like these are magnetized so that in
an emergency, you simply turn the key off and
the contactor pops the circuit open (dead).

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DC to DC Converter
This
is
called
DC
to
DC
Converter.
It converts your car's high voltage drive system

down to 12 volts to keep your normal car
battery and basic electrics working. Without one
of these, the battery that operates the 12 volt
stuff (headlights, turn signals, radio etc) would
go flat. This keeps it charged up in case you
need hazard lights etc for an emergency. This
particular photo shows a standard computer
power supply before it was modified it to
become a DC to DC Converter saving $100
US! (this cost-cutting option is explained in
Chapter #7)

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Volt Meter & Amp Meter
Shown are a Volt Meter and an Amp Meter

(aka Ammeter). A volt meter is effectively your
gas gauge. There are many different volt
meters available from basic volts-only meters,
to high-tech volt meters that can determine
how much range you have left. An ammeter
tells you how much current (power) you're
using at any given time. This will help you learn
how to best drive your EV to maximize range.
To use an ammeter in an EV, you need a
shunt.

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Shunt
This silver device is a shunt. This takes the

high voltage & current flying through your
cables and converts it to something a meter can
read. Without one of these your ammeter would
overload and you'd be victim to those pesky
impromptu dashboard fires. In-car fires are
great
conversation
starters
but
rather
dangerous and best avoided.

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Inertia Switch
This is an inertia switch. In the event of a

collision, this device kills the main circuit by the
sudden movement of a magnetized ball-bearing
inside. It works in the same way as an airbag
sensor and can be reset by pressing the top of
the device. It's not always required by law, but
I recommend it nonetheless.
That's it! Not much to it, right?

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Those are all the basic components in any electric car. When you put them
altogether, your car's engine bay will be transformed from something resembling
this:
To something a little more like this:

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As you can see there's a little bit more space

without the engine, and a lot less to fix!
No fuel injection computers.

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No exhaust gas detectors.

No ignition timing computers.
No more oily hands and waste engine oil.
The simplicity of electric cars is simply fantastic!

Now you have a basic idea of what goes into an EV, so roll up your sleeves and let's
get started!
In the first chapter we're going to cover the big choices which your EV will be based
on. Although it may sound boring, the best EVs are those done to a plan.
Before we begin with Chapter#1 however, let me congratulate you again. You've
taken a brave step. A step that thousands every year are taking in their own
garages. It's people like you who can wait no longer for car makers to produce
electric cars and have instead decided to act ourselves because we have nothing to
lose and so much to gain!
So let's crack into it and figure out your needs and budget.
Chapter#1
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Deciding Your Electric Car

Needs & Budget
Typically when it comes to converting a vehicle to electricity,
you have 3 main options:
A good range.
A high top speed.
A low conversion cost.
Realistically though, you can only choose 2 of those 3 things.
This means that before selecting your parts or selecting a donor car, you need to
decide what your goals are.
Range
When most EV owners talk about range, they mean the distance from a full charge
to absolutely flat, or around 100% DOD (Depth of Discharge).
The typical home-converted car with common lead-acid batteries often has an
average range of approximately 40 miles. This is due to a combination of factors,
the largest being the size & weight of the battery pack. Other contributing factors
are aerodynamics and driving style.
Keep in mind that estimation of a 40 mile range is often based on draining your
batteries flat - which is in the case of Lead Acid batteries is quite damaging and not
recommended.
This means to achieve a usable range of 40 miles with Lead Acid batteries, you
need a pack that could actually reach 80 miles and that's a lot of lead!
However with the different EV options, battery technologies and suppliers available

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to us nowadays, the only thing limiting your EV's range is battery pricing.
For example, a home-converted EV with a range of 200 miles is possible with offthe-shelf technology as long as you're prepared to pay for it! We'll cover battery
choices in Chapter #3.
Speed
How fast can an electric car go? As fast as you want! Unlike long range, a high top
speed can be achieved without too much extra cost. It all depends on how much
power is available from your car's battery pack and how much power your car's
controller will allow through to the motor.
I've found a rule of thumb with estimating speed is

by looking at your car's system voltage:
A car running on a 48 volt system will reach around 48km/h (30mph).
A car running a 96 volt system will reach 96km/h (59mph).
A car with a 144 volt system can theoretically reach 144km/h (89mph).
Of course this is not a terribly scientific rule as many variables come into
consideration such as aerodynamics, battery power, and weight.
For example, there are 72 volt cars that can achieve 100km/h (62mph) quite
happily. Even so, this general rule should give you an idea on why the voltage of
your conversion is important for your top speed.
Conversion Cost
The overall cost of the conversion can and will vary from car to car, and country to

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country.
The main things that could affect your overall costs are:
Shipping and freight costs due to your location in the world.

The strength of your currency for buying parts from overseas sources.
Labor costs to fabricate battery racks and a motor-to-gearbox adapter
plate.
Welding things or crimping battery cables etc that many converters pay to
have completed.
How often you take your wife/husband/partner/pet out to dinner to
compensate for all the time spent in the garage.
If you're handy with a welder or know how to cut metal and drill holes, you can
knock about $1000 off the conversion already!
I found that using tradesmen to create battery racks and adapter plates guaranteed
a job well done, but it soaked up useful funds and took up valuable time. You can
decide what you want to tackle yourself and what needs to be outsourced as we
approach each step.
Deciding Your Range Needs

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When working out your range requirements ask yourself:
How far will I need to drive each day?
Am I going to use the car for a work commute or for unpredictable use?
Is my driving terrain hilly or flat?
Is there a recharging point at my work or destination?
Is my choice of donor car a big heavy truck, or a small hatchback?
If you're unsure of the distances, try recording them on your car's odometer or on a
GPS system to give you an idea.
Alternatively Google Maps will be able to determine the distance by typing in the
start and finish locations here: http://www.maps.google.com/
If your driving conditions are very hilly, expect to use twice the power whilst in
those conditions. As a safety net, write down double the actual miles you drive in
very hilly conditions.
If you plan on using a larger vehicle as opposed to a smaller car or hatchback
expect to lose more range through the extra weight you'll be pushing around.
Also allow for any unplanned diversions (within reason) on your drive to avoid
range anxiety.
By considering all of the above you should now have a rough idea of how many
miles you need to design your conversion for.
Deciding Speed And Voltage Requirements

This one's a bit easier! Do you need to fly along the highway briskly or is

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speed not a priority for you?

We all watch the advertisements on TV of shiny new cars flying down empty city
streets but in the reality of rush hour you might be lucky to actually get near the
speed limit. Keep this in mind because like a useful range, a higher top speed costs
more! In almost all cases, good acceleration comes with a higher top speed.
For the purposes of simplification, I'm going to concentrate on 3 common voltage
choices throughout the ebook and 3 different vehicle sizes to give you an idea of
voltage and vehicle size for your own conversion.
Deciding Your Budget

The examples below will give you an idea of what top each voltage (relative to top
speed) costs with new parts. These are estimated averages in US Dollars taken
from existing EV suppliers' price lists for brand new parts. These prices exclude
shipping & taxes and are subject to change constantly.
We'll discuss the many different battery choices later but for the time being batteries not included.
Here are the necessary components for 3 common voltage conversions.
48 Volt System
Advanced DC Motor #A00-4009

Controller Curtis 1209B-6402
SW-200CW Main Contactor
High Voltage Fuses & Holders (2)
$700
$900
$137
$180

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160V DC 250A Circuit Breaker

$100
DC to DC Converter*
$100
Curtis PB6 Pot Box*
$90
Gearbox/Motor Adapter Plate*
$850
Motor mounts*
$200
Battery Rack Fabrication*
$400
Thomas Vacuum Pump & Switch*
$300
DC Voltmeter*
$30
DC Ammeter + Shunt*
$50
70mm2 or 00 AWG Main Cable 12m*
$200
Inertia (Crash) Cutoff Switch*
$80
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Total cost of essential new parts & fabrication: $4317
96 Volt System
Advanced DC K91-4003 Motor
$900
Controller Curtis 1221C-7401
$1300
$137
$180
$100
DC to DC Converter*
$100
Curtis PB6 Pot Box*
$90
$850
Motor mounts*
$200
$400
$300
DC Voltmeter*
$30
DC Ammeter + Shunt*
$50
$200
$80
144 Volt System
Advanced DC FB1-4001A Motor

Curtis #1231C-8601
$2000
$1600
$137
$180

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$100
DC to DC Converter*
$100
Curtis PB6 Pot Box*
$90
$850
Motor mounts*
$200
$400
$300
DC Voltmeter*
$30
DC Ammeter + Shunt*
$50
$200
$80
Items with an asterisk (*) are very similarly priced and often
interchangeable with any voltage.
Note: Don't forget, I've left out batteries at this stage as it's a whole other chapter
literally!
Early Cost Reduction Options

Are you looking to cut these costs down? You could consider trying an in-between
voltage such as a 72 volt system or a 120 volt system. Also consider buying a
conversion kit with everything in it from a supplier to save on individual shipping
costs.

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Also, as I'll mention many times throughout the ebook, bargains are to be found
everywhere from http://www.eBay.com to your local wreckers yard. There are even
things you can do yourself to avoid paying for new items such as:
using multi-meters instead of in-dash voltmeters

computer power supplies instead of DC to DC Converters.
I've seen a lot of creativity used with electric cars to cut costs and I'll mention it all
as we approach each step.
I've listed only Advanced DC motors and Curtis Controllers in my lists because I've
seen overwhelmingly positive responses from EV converters using them, but by all
means shop around.
There are many other (and often cheaper) motor and controller options available
out there. Check out your local EV club for bargains too someone's bound to be
selling what you need second hand.
As you'll find out, the more creative you are, the more ways you'll find to eliminate
the above costs by welding battery racks yourself, crimping the ends of the main
cables yourself or fabricating your own motor mounts and adapter plate to join your
electric motor to your car's gearbox.
Don't be scared off the idea of an EV just yet it's not as hard as it sounds!
Chapter #2
Selecting a Donor Car
This is where it starts getting fun - you have a world full of car makes and models

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to choose from!
So what makes a good donor car?
The main strength of any donor car is its ability to carry the weight of your battery
pack without exceeding the car's legal limitations. If your voltage or battery pack is
small or light then you have more choice of vehicle, but less range or speed.
To simplify things at this early stage I'm going to assume you're using a medium
sized lead-acid battery pack the most common choice because of their
affordability.
When choosing a donor car, make sure you check out the GVWR (Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating) to see what the maximum load the car can handle. This sort of
information can be found on Google by making your search specific with the key
words in speech marks, such as: 1995 S10 GVWR. This will bring up only the
results with exactly those words in them, making it easier than trawling through
hundreds of pages.
Often the weight of your battery pack is relative to your voltage. After chapter#1
you should have an idea of what voltage will suit your performance needs so to give
you an idea of voltage/battery pack weight, let's use the Trojan SCS200 12 Volt
battery at 60 lbs (27 kg) each as an example:
Example: Trojan SCS200 12 Volt battery at 60 lbs (27 kg)
48 Volt System (4 x SCS200 batteries connected in series): 240 lbs (108 kg)
Of course these are only average figures to help you comprehend what weight
you're likely to deal with. We'll cover battery specifics and more accurate weights in
chapter#3. For now though, let's go hunting for donor cars, starting with 48 volts.
48 Volt Donor Cars

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Due to the limited power output of a 48v system, you need to keep the weight of
the vehicle as low as possible. A very small hatchback is the ideal choice.
Here are 3 examples of cars that would suit a 48v system
1995 Mitsubishi Mirage
1995 Suzuki Swift/Geo Metro
2002 Smart ForTwo
48 Volt Donor Car
1995 Mitsubishi Mirage:

The GVWR of this car is 3590 lbs(1630 kg) which is good, but the car
itself is rather heavy for it's size which will restrict your top speed,
acceleration and range with a 48v system.
48 Volt Donor Car

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1995 Suzuki Swift/Geo Metro:

Fitting 4 batteries into this little beast won't be a problem and it won't
strain the chassis of the car as it's GVWR is 2929 lbs or 1329 kg,
although you must take into consideration the weight of passengers
too.
48 Volt Donor Car
2002 Smart ForTwo: Although we're starting to get very small, this
little car would still take the weight of the batteries, plus 2 adults. It's
getting close to the GVWR of 2314 lbs or 1050 kg but you'd get quite
respectable performance from a low-voltage system in a car this
small.
96 Volt Donor Cars

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Now we have more choice because of the extra power, but more compromise
because of the extra weight!
Fitting approximately 480 lbs(216 kg) into a car with 4 adults could exceed the
limits of the GVWR in some cars so although you have more power, you have to
look carefully.
96 Volt Donor Car
The Classic Volkswagen Beetle: This iconic car has been

converted to electric with 96v systems many times in the past and
because it's engine is in the trunk it has a large amount of space
available for batteries in the front of the car. It's GVWR is 1873 lbs or
850 kg. There are many conversion kits available for this car.
96 Volt Donor Car

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1999 Suzuki Vitara

Small cars from the late 90's like this example can be quite light
but often due to the lack of safety features.
On the down side it typically means you act as a crumple zone, but
on the up side the weight savings are convenient. If you can get past
the look of the thing. This car has a GVWR of 3373 lbs or 1529 kg.
96 Volt Donor Car
2003 Toyota Matrix

This is as large and heavy as I'd recommend with a 96v system in
order to keep respectable performance. The GVWR of this car is 3800
lbs or 1723 kg.

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144 Volt Donor Cars

We're now talking about a voltage that has the potential to move a large vehicle
quite easily, though I still recommend looking for the lightest, smallest vehicle
possible as long as it can handle the weight of your batteries. Unfortunately, small
cars that will take that weight - as well as a full payload of people - aren't very
plentiful and you might want to consider a utility or pickup truck.
144 Volt Donor Car
1996 Chevrolet S-10

It's a very popular choice for 144v systems. The Chevrolet S10 will
take 720 lbs without breaking a sweat in fact with this vehicle you
could get away with doubling the size of your 144 volt battery pack!
It has an impressive GVWR of 5150 lbs or 2336 kg.

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144 Volt Donor Car
1992 Nissan Navara

Once again, a utility or small truck like this is fairly light for it's size
but can take an impressive payload. The GVWR of this car is 5666 lbs
or 2570 kg.
144 Volt Donor Car
2006 Scion XB
Cars such as the Scion XB can take a reasonable amount of weight
for their layout and have previously been converted to electric by
some high-budget converters. AC Propulsion even sells a car based
on a converted Scion XB. This model has a GVWR of 3370 lbs or 1528
kg.
Please note: I've obtained all GVWR figures from various automotive websites and

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can't guarantee their accuracy. Treat them as a guide only. The service department
of your local car model dealer should be able to double check your car's exact
GVWR for you.
Aerodynamics
This plays quite a large part in your final range. Having good aerodynamics can
improve your car's range by up to 30% more in some cases.
Unfortunately finding aerodynamic specifications for older cars on the Internet isn't
easy but a good rule of thumb is this: If it's shaped like a jellybean, it's
aerodynamic!
Like all rules of thumb, it's not always accurate but it'll give you an idea on
aerodynamics. Popular aerodynamic modifications are covered in detail in the bonus
ebook Getting the most out of your EV which is included with this ebook.
If you've found a potential donor car for your conversion, you need to check a few
essentials:
Firstly, does it have any rust? The life of my own EV was cut short because
of rust and my own I'm sure I can fix it attitude. Learn from my error and
try to find a car without rust.
Be sure to check the sills of the car and have a good look under the car in
daylight. Don't be scared to get your knees dirty if it saves you from
unnecessary rust repair and unplanned delay! My own conversion would have
been on the road 3 months before schedule if it wasn't for the rust repair and
painting I had to do. Here's a little phrase to keep in mind, Does the car
have rust buy it only if you must! It's a corny message but you get the
idea. Buying a car without rust will save you time and money.
Once again for the purposes of simplicity I'm going to recommend converting

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a car with a manual or stick shift gearbox, so make sure you look
primarily for one of those. Cars with automatic gearboxes can be converted to
electric, though it takes a fair amount of work and you lose a lot of efficiency.
Automatic gearboxes are not designed for the torque range on an electric
motor and will generally have to be reprogrammed to stay in a chosen gear,
or only change at a particular motor speed. If you're not scared off by the
extra work and you're familiar with automatic gearboxes then don't let that
stop you, but for this ebook. I'm keeping it simple and recommending only a
manual gearbox.
If you've found a car with a manual gearbox, be sure to check the condition of
the gearbox. If the car is drivable, take it for a spin trying each gear. Does it
pop out of gear? Does it make a crunching noise or whining noise in a
particular gear? Does it resist going into a particular gear? These are signs of
future trouble. Avoid donor cars with these symptoms if you can, unless you
can track down a cheap replacement gearbox. My own donor car had gearbox
problems which caused delay and extra cost.
Does the donor car you're looking at have power steering and/or air
conditioning? If so, this will require a little extra effort and cost to make
these options work properly. We'll get to that in Chapter 8.
With the donor car's weight limits, aerodynamics, and cost in mind, it's also
important to make sure you choose a car that you want to convert! It's all
very well converting the perfect vehicle to electric, but it should be a car you
like the look of and want to be seen in!

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Now that you have an idea of what makes a good donor car it's time to go hunting!
Seized Cars Up to 95% OFF

Heres an incredibly popular website for
government auctions which claims to be the
Internets largest government auction service.
CLICK HERE TO START THE SEARCH
The website has easy navigation and plenty of

features to help narrow down the ideal donor
car for your conversion. You can do a free
search for the type of car you want to buy in
the state you live. You can also test the waters
by viewing recently completed auctions with
the prices they sold for. Compare these prices
to the book value of the vehicle to get an idea
of how much you could save. The website is
frequently updated and you get unlimited
access instantly to details on thousands of
auctions. It's impressive for bargain hunters
and worth a look.
I think we've covered the basics in regards to finding a donor car so with that in
mind, happy hunting!

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Chapter #3
Selecting The Parts & Batteries
Decide on your batteries first, but buy the batteries last. This way you won't have
expensive batteries lying around your garage self-discharging while you're busy
working on other things.
Assuming you've decided on what voltage you'd like to run, now you must decide
what sized batteries will make up that voltage. Chapter#1 gave you a taste on
battery weight now it's time for the gritty details.
We're going to stick to Flooded Lead-Acid batteries for simplicity, which gives us
3 main choices in battery size:
6 volt batteries
8 volt batteries
12 volt batteries
Your batteries will be connected In series, which means the negative terminal of
one battery connects to the positive terminal of another. This way, two 12 volt
batteries connected in series become a 24 volt pack; three 12 volt batteries become
a 36 volt pack; and twelve batteries connected in series will create a 144 volt pack.
You can connect any battery in series to increase its collective voltage.
Capacity
Individual battery capacity is typically measured in Amp Hours, or how many
amps can be maintained for a set amount of hours.
This is important to know when deciding your batteries. Unfortunately Amp Hours
or a/h depends on the battery voltage making it confusing when deciding which
battery has more capacity.

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For example, a 12 volt battery rated at 100 a/h, has the exact same capacity as a 6
volt battery rated at 200 a/h.
This can be confusing at times so to remove the confusion, convert the rating to
Kilowatt Hours or kWh which will tell you the battery capacity regardless of
voltage.
It's very handy and easy to do. Simply take the voltage (eg. 12), and the capacity
(eg. 120) and multiply the two: 12 x 120 = 1440 Wh. To work out the Wh of a car's
entire battery pack simply increase the voltage in your equation (eg. 144V x 100
a/h = 14,400 Wh).
Try these examples:
Battery pack 1 has eight 6 volt batteries rated at 225 a/h each. What's the
total capacity in kWh?
Battery pack 2 has twelve 8 volt batteries rated at 170 a/h each. What's the
Battery pack 3 has twelve 12 volt batteries rated at 105 a/h each. What's the
Once you've worked those out, you'll have an understanding of how many kilowatt
hours or kWh are in a battery or entire battery pack.
Answers:
Battery pack 1: 10,800 Wh (10.8 kWh)
See how battery pack 2 is only 96 volts but it has more capacity than battery pack
3 at 144 volts? This means that even though the voltage is lower in pack 2, it has
more overall capacity than battery pack 3.
Having more capacity in pack 2 doesn't always mean having more range however
as the 96 volt pack (2) would have to work much harder than the 144 volt pack (3)
to match the same driving style, and as you'll learn, driving your pack harder
reduces your range considerably.
This means choosing the correct voltage and capacity is equally important. With
that in mind, let's demonstrate the differences in battery voltages, weights and
costs using three common and reliable battery choices.

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6 volt batteries
A typical 6 volt battery to consider would be the Trojan T105. It weighs 62 lbs (28
kg), has a storage capacity of 225 amp hours (1.35 kWh each), and cost
approximately $140 US each.
For their size, 6 volt batteries have the most capacity out of the three and a battery
pack made up of 6 volt batteries can typically handle more deep discharging than a
battery pack made up of 12 volt batteries.
The down side is the extra price of having double the amount of batteries, and the
incredible amount of extra weight you'd be carrying around.
As an example, if you're going for a larger 144 volt system with 6 volt batteries
you'd need 24 batteries at around $3360 US you'd also need a donor car that
could happily take the 1500 lbs (680 kg) of extra weight, such as a Chevy S10 or
similar utility/pickup.
8 volt batteries
A typical 8 volt battery to consider would be the Trojan T875. It weighs 63 lbs
(28.5 kg), has a storage capacity of 170 amp hours (1.36 kWh each), and costs
The 8 volt batteries are a good middle of the road choice. They offer a decent bangfor-buck while meeting halfway in weight between the 6 volt and 12 volt batteries.
Using the big 144v example, your pack would consist of 18 of these batteries at
around $2340 US and weighing 1134 lbs (514 kg).
12 volt batteries
A typical 12 volt battery to consider would be the Trojan SCS150. It weighs 63 lbs
(28.5 kg), has a storage capacity of 105 amp hours (1.26 kWh each), and costs
As you can see, 12 volt batteries don't have the same capacity as their 6 and 8 volt

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counterparts, but they are incredibly convenient in size and weight.

It means you'd only need 12 batteries connected in series to make a 144 volt
battery pack for you car, costing approximately $1560 US, and weighing around
756 lbs (342 kg).
You can see in this example the pack would be fairly lightweight (for a lead acid
pack) giving you impressive acceleration but it's also low in capacity meaning you
wouldn't have much range.
More Useful Tips:

Don't even think about using normal car starting or marine batteries for your
conversion. They may be 12 volts, around the same size (and often cheaper) but
they're only designed for short bursts of power, and then sitting on a charge again
for the rest of the day. Running these batteries in an EV with the heavy, constant
power demands would give you about 4 to 6 months of maximum life before those
new batteries become big, acid-filled paperweights. Insist on only Deep Cycle
batteries, and if possible find others who have used the same batteries in their EV
with success.
Looking to save money on batteries?

While it's often said, Never cut corners with your batteries, if you're financially
challenged you could look at a technique called Battery Rejuvenation.
Battery Rejuvenation is where you take old batteries which have worn out and lost
their capacity, and by sending a high frequency pulse through the battery, break
down the sulfation inside, bringing the battery to life again.
Speaking from personal experience I've found battery desulfating not completely
reliable in every case but many others swear by it. There are some budget EVs out
there that only use rejuvenated batteries! So, if you're desperate to get an EV and
money's getting in your way then you could take a chance and give it a go!

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Track down a forklift repairer, auto wreckers yard, or look in your local paper and
see what batteries you can scrounge up for next to nothing (be sure to only look for
Deep Cycle batteries though or you'll be back to square one in weeks).
Next step is to find a battery desulfator and desulfating solution from an auto parts
store, or http://www.eBay.com and try it for yourself.
Before selecting your batteries, make sure you have the measurements so you can
make them fit into your donor car.
I've found making cardboard mock-ups helps. Some have even found similar (dead)
batteries that are the same size and removed the innards, giving them a real world
indication of how it would look and fit.
Make sure you allow enough room above the batteries for the terminals to fit in.
Allow a couple of inches between the top of the battery terminals and your battery
box lid (if you have one) for connecting of cables and movement of air etc.
Last but certainly not least, try to buy your batteries as late in the project as
possible. If you're buying shiny new batteries then preferably you should have
bought your charger first so that your EV's most important parts won't sit around
going flat - which would shorten their life.
Isn't there a precise method to figure out exactly what size batteries I
need?
It's always going to be a calculated guess due to all the variations applicable on
every conversion. Yet there are a couple of methods to make your guess a little
more precise.
A very popular range-estimating web page for electric cars is this one:
http://www.evconvert.com/tools/evcalc/
It's been proven time & time again to be one of the best range calculators on the
Internet as lists some popular battery & vehicle choices as well taking real-world
driving into consideration. Of course every car is different and your results will vary
depending on driving style and aerodynamic modifications.
Another way to help you decide on final battery capacity is to calculate the distance
you can travel by other real world conversion stats.

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Take a look at this example:

Let's say the average home converted EV uses 0.3 kW/h (kilowatts per hour) of
electricity per mile at 35 miles per hour. This means to drive 50 miles at the same
speed, you'll need approximately 15 kW/h of battery capacity available.
Remember that you should never take lead acid batteries past half-full which
means you'll need a battery pack that is actually twice what you need (30 kW/h).
With lead acid batteries a 30 kW/h pack is enormous!
For example if your car is running a 96 volt pack you can work out the battery
amp hour requirements with the wattsvolts=amps formula:
30,000 W/h (30 kW/h) divided by 96 volts equals 312.5 A/h (amp hours)
This means a 96 volt car would need to use ten, 12 Volt, 312.5 A/h batteries
(10x12v=96v), which (if they existed) might weigh around 176 lbs (80 kg) each.
That's 1760 lbs (800 kg) which would exceed the limits of most cars except for
some small trucks!
Remember that this entire calculation is purely an example which will change
depending on your car's weight (including batteries), aerodynamic properties,
driving style, and system voltage (the higher the system voltage the less hard the
system has to work).
Other Battery Alternatives
Flooded Lead Acid batteries are the ideal battery for beginners as they're
cheap, but there are others out there to choose from.
Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) batteries are another option which don't require
topping up every 2 months and can be stored on their sides.
The next step up would be the Advanced Glass Mat (AGM) sealed lead acid
batteries. Being another kind of sealed lead acid battery they can be stored
on their sides also but the glass mat inside allows these batteries to deliver
higher amp bursts take a lot more abuse.

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Sealed lead acid batteries have specific charging requirements however. Using
a standard car charger on a sealed lead acid battery will cause it to bubble
inside, reducing its lifespan. You'll need to talk to your supplier about finding
a lower voltage SLA or AGM battery charger to avoid cooking your batteries.
Next in the list are Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) batteries which are hardy,
reliable batteries able to handle deep discharging better than most batteries
available and can even be stored empty without damage. Ni-Cd batteries
have a much higher energy density than the Lead Acid battery range but due
to the labor in manufacturing these batteries are often priced out of many
converter's reach. Ni-Cd batteries also have specific charging requirements
and can develop a memory, as well as being quite toxic if disposed of
improperly.
Further up the battery food chain are Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH)
batteries. Unfortunately finding these batteries is a challenge as the patent
for large NiMH cells is owned by Chevron who guards their patent closely.
These were the batteries used in GM's infamous EV1 and also Toyota's Rav4
EV. They're good batteries for EV use but not usually available to consumers
in large quantities. Until the patent expires (in 2015) and the batteries can be
mass produced again, the next best EV-friendly battery in the food chain is
the Lithium Iron Phosphate battery.
Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries (LiFePO4)

While I'm covering Lead Acid batteries primarily in this book as they're
cheaper for first time users, but there are other options such as the popular
Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. It's still a fairly new composition but one
that's taking the EV world by storm. As with any new technology it's too
young to have a history but so far I've heard a lot of praise from EV
converters who've chosen this method.
While much more expensive, LiFePO4 batteries have many benefits over Lead
Acid. They're maintenance free, much lighter, have a higher energy density
per kilogram, and can be discharged to 80% DOD (Depth of Discharge),
whereas Lead Acid can't go below 50%.
This means that ranges of 100 + miles are very possible with LiFePO4
batteries if your budget allows it.
One downside to LiFePO4 batteries other than the high cost is that each cell
requires a BMS (Battery Management System) attached to it. A BMS is a little

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circuit which clips onto the battery's terminals and can regulate the current
during charging to make sure all cells reach the same charged level.
With lead acid batteries this isn't a problem as lead acid batteries will selfequalize during the overcharging stage. LiFePO4 batteries require a little
assistance however and without a BMS your shiny new lithium batteries will
last only a matter of months before one cell's weakness starts to affect the
pack's total performance. With a BMS it's expected a typical LiFePO4 pack
should last approximately 7 to 9 years.
Most reputable battery suppliers will also ship out a BMS with your pack,
although they are an extra cost.
Buyer beware!
The EV community certainly isn't free from scam artists and I have seen one
converter loose several thousand dollars when the supplier vanished with his money
so only buy from reputable sellers.
Find other converters that have used LiFePO4 batteries by searching battery types
at www.evalbum.com through similar discussions at www.diyelectriccar.com and
contacting the converters themselves.
I'm apprehensive to recommend any suppliers for LiFePO4 batteries personally,
though I have seen positive feedback written about Thundersky batteries, for both
their batteries and their customer service when things go wrong.
Whatever your supplier decision, do your research first and track down other
customers from that supplier for their opinions.

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Purchasing tip:
If you're buying LiFePO4 cells I recommend buying at least two spare cells with
your order in case you have a faulty cell at some point. Not only will it mean that
you're not off the road while waiting for a replacement, but quite often the
chemistry changes inside the batteries so the battery you get back from the
supplier may be different to the faulty one you sent back.
If you're interested in using any of the above battery chemistries, I recommend
contacting your local battery supplier or doing a search for manufacturers on
www.google.com
Selecting The Controller

For the purposes of this book I'm going to suggest Curtis controllers, as they're
reasonably affordable and have a very low failure rate. There are many different
controller brands available but as with anything, buyer beware!
If you're unsure of a particular controller brand, try to locate people who are
already using it by using the search by controller function at www.evalbum.com
This will give you personal accounts of the different controllers available.
I recommend the following models of controller for your EV:
48 Volts: Curtis 1209B-6402. 400 amps output,

usable in a car with 48 to 72 Volts.
96 Volts: Curtis 1221C-7401, 400 amps output,

144 Volts: Curtis 1231C-8601, 500 amps output,


- Page 58 -
While they're often expensive, I still recommend buying a controller brand new with
a warranty. This way you'll have somewhere to fall back on if thing do go wrong or
it doesn't work.
If you're looking at second hand parts then the internet is once again your best
friend! If you find a deal on a controller I recommend asking someone at your local
EV group or the people at www.diyelectriccar.com if it's suitable for your voltage
and needs.
A popular choice for EV converters on a bargain hunt are forklift and golf cart
controllers. You can normally track these down on www.eBay.com or your local
paper quite cheaply. Unfortunately these are often only 48 volt controllers so not
suitable for a 96 volt system, and especially not suitable for a 144 volt system
unless you need a little excitement and a few sparks to brighten up your day.
Selecting The Motor

The motor is obviously one of the most important parts of your EV. Selecting the
right one is as important as selecting the right batteries. It has to be able to push
the load of the car without straining and overheating. One of the great things about
DC motors is that they're quite flexible with voltages.
For example, I've seen cases where people have used 48 volt forklift motors in a
120 volt car without any problems.
If you're looking at using a new motor with a warranty, I've had good success with
the brand Advanced DC and will be using them as examples in this ebook. There
are many alternatives out there though so don't be scared to go hunting!

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About DC Motors
The most common DC motors available are:
Shunt Wound,
Series Wound
Compound Wound motors.
Here are the differences between each:
Shunt-Wound Motors
This type of motor tries to run at a constant speed, regardless of the load. It is the
type generally used in lathes, drills, and process lines where starting conditions are
not usually severe and is probably the most common DC motor used in industry
today.
The components of the shunt motor are the armature (labeled A1 and A2) and the
field (labeled F1 and F2). This motor provides starting torque that varies with the
load applied and good speed regulation by controlling the shunt field voltage. In
other words, the shunt motor will not over-spin and destroy itself if it loses its
physical load.
While not as popular (mainly due to cost), these motors can still be used
successfully in electric cars if you can find a suitable controller designed for shunt
wound motor running at your voltage.

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Series-Wound Motors
This type of motor speed changes compared to the load, increasing as the load
decreases. The series wound motor has very poor speed control itself, and requires
voltage and amperage control which is what your controller is for. Series wound
motors are excellent for use in electric cars because they are completely
controllable. Series-wound motors should never be used where the motor can be
started without load or with the car in neutral since they will over-spin and destroy
themselves if given full power.
Components of a series motor include the armature (labeled A1 and A2) and the
field (labeled S1 and S2). The coils inside the motor's series field are made of a few
turns of large gauge wire to facilitate large current flow.
This means series wound motors can produce a high starting torque (approximately
2 times the rated load torque) which is perfect for moving 2 tonnes of electric car
from a standstill!
Most DC controllers are designed to work with series wound motors. Series wound
motors are the most popular motors used in home-converted electric cars.
Compound-Wound DC Motors
This is a combination of both the shunt wound and the series wound motor
combining the characteristics of both. Characteristics may be varied by varying the
combination of the two types of motor windings. These motors are generally used
where severe starting conditions are met and constant speed is required at the
same time.
When comparing the advantages of the series and shunt motors, the series motor
has greater torque capabilities while the shunt motor has more constant and
controllable speed over various loads. These two desirable characteristics can be
found in the same motor by placing both a series field and shunt field winding on
the same pole. Thus, we have the compound motor.
Common uses of the compound motor include elevators, air compressors,
conveyors, presses and shears. The cost of these motors (and the lack of suitable
controllers) puts these motors out of the reach of most converters.

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Motor Direction
Some motors are designed to turn in one direction only. This can be a problem if
your car's gearbox shaft turns the opposite direction to that of your motor (which is
a common occurrence with some Honda vehicles).
Is my motor easily reversible?
If your motor has 4 terminals marked A1, A2, S1, S2 then it's reversible. Two of
these terminals are for the central spinning part called the armature (A1 & A2) and
the other 2 terminals are for the fixed magnets inside called the field (S1 & S2).
A field-to-armature connection is required externally by using a heavy duty jumper
cable between the terminals on the motor's surface (as seen in almost all
conversions).
This means that if you jumper A1 to S1 and apply power to the other two, the
motor will rotate in one direction; typically counter-clockwise.
So by connecting a jumper between A1 and S2, then applying power to the
remaining 2 terminals will cause the motor to rotate in the opposite direction.
If you have a motor with only two terminals where the field is connected to the
brush internally, the motor will rotate the same direction regardless of the polarity
connected to the two terminals and will require a specialist to reconfigure the motor
internally in order to change its rotation.
Changing the motor's timing
Some motors have their brushes (the parts that actually touch the armature)
manually configured to help the motor spin more in one direction than the other to
increase efficiency. If you've changed the direction of the motor's rotation then you
should check to see if your brushes are advanced to suit your motor's new rotation.

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In the above picture you can see the red line running along the pole shoe bolts, and
how the black brushes are above that line. This means the motor's brush timing is
advanced, making the motor more efficient for CCWDE (Counter-Clockwise rotation
from the viewpoint of the Drive End).
If this timing doesn't suit your desired rotation and you need the motor to turn in
the clockwise direction, then you can change it by simply taking off the cover and
undoing the bolts holding the brush position in place then reposition the brushes so
they're below the pole shoe bolt line.
Advancing or retarding your motor timing will help your motor run more efficiently,
run cooler, and reduce the risk of arcing at higher voltages and higher loads.
If you're looking at using regenerative braking, you'll want to ensure your motor
timing is neutral (in the center position).

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New DC Motor Options

Here are some examples of new motors suitable for use
in average sized cars with the following voltages:
48 Volts: Advanced DC #140-01-4005, 5.5" in diameter,

suitable for 48 volt cars.
96 Volts: Advanced DC K91-4003, 6.7" in diameter,

suitable for 48 to 96 volt cars.
144 Volts: Advanced DC #FB1-4001, 9 in diameter,

suitable for 96 to 144 volt cars.
While I've listed the tried & tested Advanced DC brand, they're not exactly
adventurous and there are many other electric motor manufacturers out there so
don't be scared to shop around!
You'll find all kinds of motors that look the same but have different power ratings so
write down the model number and ask people! Same goes for forklift motors, if you
spot a bargain, write down any numbers on the motor, take a couple of photos and
try to find out what it was used for, then ask people in EV clubs or at
www.diyelectriccar.com if it's suitable for your particular conversion.
Finding a Cheap Electric Motor

As well as looking for second hand motors on ebay, there's another thing you can
do to cut down your motor purchasing costs: use a second hand forklift motor
instead!
Electric forklifts are pretty common things and like any device, they wear down and
get outdated. Their electric motors however are often quite powerful and often
outlast the life of the forklift.

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Even though forklift motors aren't designed for performance, I've seen people put
144 volts quite happily into a 48 volt forklift motor.
The good thing about DC motors is that you can typically apply a much higher
voltage than what they're rated to handle as long as you keep them cool.
In some motors you may have to advance or retard the timing (as mentioned
above) in order to allow it to eliminate arcing at higher voltages.
If you think you've found a suitable motor, the things to look for are:
1: Weight & Size. The size & weight of a motor is a good example of how much
power it will deliver. Look for a motor between 100 lbs (45 kg) and 150 lbs (68
kg) if possible. The heavier the car, the heavier the motor needed to push it
around.
2: Condition. A dirty motor could be a hidden gem inside. Look for motor cores
that are wine-colored with yellow banding. If it looks burnt inside then avoid it.
3: Armature & Commutator condition. Once again, look for scorched and
burnt components inside the motor. Check to see the commutator isn't burnt and
pitted. Look for commutators that have a large bar count. The higher the bar
count, the higher the voltage the motor will take.
4: Shaft size & condition. Avoid a cracked shaft even if the rest of the motor is
perfect. Also be aware of the shaft size & length as you'll need to find a way to
make it work with a car gearbox.
If you're still uncertain, take as much info as you can about the motor such as
model numbers, ratings and voltages and some photos, and post them up on an
electric car forum such as www.diyelectriccar.com or www.hitorqueelectric.com

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Selecting The Other Parts

With all the information so far, you should be decided on your choice of donor car
and what voltage your EV will be. From here on you can start hunting for parts!
You will need to write a list of all the things you'll need for your conversion. You can
copy this one as it includes all the main components of an EV. Some of these you
can make yourself to cut costs, and others you can find second hand!
EV Parts List
Motor
Controller
Pot Box
Vacuum Pump & Switch
Voltmeter, Ammeter and Shunt
Main Battery Cable
Battery Connectors for the Cable
Circuit Breaker
Main Contactor
Fuses & Holders
Inertia (Crash) Cutoff Switch
Battery Charger
Deep Cycle Batteries
Battery Box & Battery Mounts
Motor Bracket/Mounts
Gearbox to Motor Adapter Plate
There may be extra things that aren't listed above that your EV might need such as
extraction fans for battery boxes located in the trunk (to remove the hydrogen gas
that is generated while charging) and relays for heaters and such.
With your list in hand it's time to go shopping!
Remember that the price of some parts (controller, motor, circuit breaker etc) will
vary depending on your voltage. Make sure the motor or controller you're looking at
is suitable for your selected voltage. All EV parts dealers will be able to tell you this
and it's typically listed right below the product you're looking at.

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Where To Buy New Parts:

If you're looking to buy new parts for your EV or simply compare pricing, here are
some EV parts dealers to consider (which will ship to international locations):
www.evamerica.com based in NH, USA
www.evparts.com based in WA, USA
www.electroauto.com based in CA, USA
www.cloudelectric.com based in GA, USA
www.kta-ev.com based in CA, USA
www.electricvehiclesusa.com based in SC, USA
www.electricmotorsport.com based in CA, USA
www.grassrootsev.com based in NV, USA and FL, USA
www.canev.com based in BC, Canada
www.zeva.com.au based in WA, Australia
www.evpower.com.au based in WA, Australia
Where To Buy Second Hand Parts:

If you're looking to find second-hand parts to cut costs then this is where the
Internet will be your new best friend! Have a look for these sites and forums:
www.evtradinpost.com
www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/classifieds-4.html
www.visforvoltage.org
www.ebay.com
Also, be sure to check out if there's an Electric Vehicle club or organization in your
area. You can find many clubs listed here:
http://pages.prodigy.net/noela/linksto.htm
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/ev-clubs-23.html
or even by searching with www.google.com.
Chances are there's an EV club in your country or state!

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Selecting your parts can look like a daunting task but it doesn't have to be. To
familiarize yourself on what voltage works for what sized car, or what parts others
have used, or even just to find another EV owner in your area, go to
www.evalbum.com There are thousands of electric vehicles with their specifications
listed. This site can also help with inspiration. Click there any time you need a
morale boost to help complete your project!
Also consider joining up with an international EV discussion group such as
www.diyelectriccar.com as the people there are often very supportive and will help
you track down bargains and substitute products to save money.
Chapter #4
Dismantling the Donor Car
Chances are you'll have dragged home a sick or dying car by now, often to the
horror of your partner or spouse. After you've finished convincing him or her of the
benefits of an EV, and after you've finished sitting in the driver's seat pretending it's
an EV then the work can finally begin!
During the evenings of the dismantling process (which can take minutes or weeks
depending on your enthusiasm) you should be busy hunting for your selected EV
parts from auction sites and websites such as those mentioned in Chapter #2. This
way, by the time you've finished this chapter, some EV components will start
arriving!

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Tools You'll Require

For the dismantling stage you're going to need some tools such as an engine hoist,
a set of wrenches and a socket set.
Considering you'll only be using the hoist once, try to borrow or hire one for the
day. As for the wrenches and sockets you'll find yourself using them a fair amount
through the conversion so I recommend buying your own and buying a quality
brand.
You don't have to go to a specialist shop, any auto parts store should do just don't
buy the cheapest tools known to man because they will break - I promise!
There's nothing quite as annoying as having two bolts to go and your wrench snaps
or socket changes shape under pressure. I've learnt the hard way so you don't have
to spend an extra few dollars on quality tools. It's worth it as they'll last your
lifetime and be useful for future conversions too.
Clean Out Your Garage In Preparation

I'm sure you're keen, but before you start dismantling the donor car, make some
space! Move or throw away some of your junk (believe me, every house has junk!)
and make room for the many things that will be coming out of the donor car.
Some items from the car will be rubbish destined for the scrap heap, and others will
be worth something to someone out there.
Have 2 empty sections in your garage:
one for keeps
one for trash.

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Also be ready with a bag of disposable paper cups and a marker pen this is vital
for all the many bolts and screws that will come out of the car and eventually need
to go back in sometimes in order!
Try and find a shelf space where these cups won't be knocked over like bowling
pins when you decide to triumphantly throw discarded engine parts across the
garage without looking. I've been there and done that! It's often followed by a few
seconds of cursing, then 20 minutes of crawling around on your hands and knees
trying to put the bolts back into their respective cups!
Take Photos
Before you start removing anything, be sure to take photos lots and lots of
photos. Take photos of every corner of the engine bay and every hose and wire
from every angle. This will come in very handy in the future when you can't
remember where a particular hose went or what that blue wire was connected to
etc. Even take plenty video footage if you're able to. Not only will the photos and
video footage be very useful, but you'll be able to show strangers and friends
the before and after shots!
Label All Wiring

On top of photos and video, be ready with insulation tape (white if possible) and
your trusty marker pen. This way you'll be able to wrap a piece of tape around a
wire and label it. If you do this before you dismantle the engine bay you'll be very
glad you did. When the new parts go in you'll be able to decide if you want to reuse
a particular wire (eg. the wire that feeds the RPM or temperature gauge) or get rid
of it completely (eg. the wire that feeds the engine oil light) or find another use for
it.

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Draining The Fluids

Now that you've been busy with your camera and marker pen it's time to get
dirty! Before you touch the car with any tool make sure you've run the gas tank
as low as possible it'll make life easier later!
Start the engine removal process by draining the fluid from your car's radiator. If
the engine still runs, do this when the engine has cooled down as there's a lot of
pressure in car coolant systems when hot.
There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator as well as the cap at the
top. Open both and collect the coolant into a bucket. If you can't find the drain plug
or if it's stuck, loosen the lower rubber coolant tube. Don't tip the waste coolant
into a drain or let pets drink it as it's quite toxic. Put it into a bottle and ask your
local garage or gas station if they can accept it.
If you're planning on dismantling your engine, now would be a convenient time to
drain it of it's engine oil. Same goes with the waste oil - don't throw it in your trash.
Most garages should accept waste engine oil. (Notice the lack of a radiator, radiator
hoses and a carburetor)

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If you're keeping your engine intact, then leave the oil in there. No oil should spill
out during removal under normal circumstances.
Separating The Engine From The Gearbox

Depending on the design of the car, when removing the engine be sure to you'll
need to separate it from it's gearbox. This is the case for almost all front-wheel
drive cars. Some rear-wheel drive cars can keep the gearbox attached to the engine
and the two can be removed together.
Either way, both are going to be removed eventually so that you can measure the
gearbox for it's electric motor adapter plate.
Make sure you have a hoist of some sort for this. Start by disconnecting all the
obvious things such as the exhaust manifold and the air filter and hoses, then get
stuck into the wiring. If you're planning on keeping the engine intact remember to
think ahead and keep important looking things attached or at least labeled.
Once you've got the weight of the engine supported on the hoist, start
disconnecting the main engine mounts. Start from the bottom up so that no one
has to go under the engine when it's dangling precariously on the hoist!
Take photos of this process just in case they come in handy in the future. After
you've hoisted the engine out and set it aside you'll have better access to the
engine bay to remove other things such as the fuel lines and exhaust.
I'd recommend pushing the car outside and giving the engine bay a good scrub to
remove the oil and sludge left there from its former resident.

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Removing The Gas Tank

When removing the gas tank be careful. The car may be dead but the gas in there
is still very much alive and it's not known for its compassion and sense of humor
when poked with a flame or spark!
Some tanks have a threaded drain plug at the bottom which is helpful. Unscrew this
slowly and carefully, not just because it's metal and could spark if bashed about,
but also because you want to be ready with a bucket when it falls out with 2 gallons
of gas behind it! If your tank doesn't have a screw plug then you'll have to drain it
once it's out.
Either way, de-crimp the hose fittings from the side/back as well as the front of the
tank and unscrew the tank from the underside of the car. This is one of the least fun
jobs because of all the dirt and build-up under most cars. A pair of safety glasses or
swimming goggles is recommended at this stage to keep the dirt out of your eyes.
The fuel that comes out of the tank is obviously useful for running your lawn mower
or pouring into your other car, but I kept mine in a bottle for cleaning bolts and
removing grease from the engine bay and gearbox. You may want to do this too.
Sell Those Old Parts

You've probably got quite a pile of old parts in the corner of your garage by now.
Some will be useful to resell and recover some costs. Things like the radiator and
it's fan, the alternator, the carburettor (if it has one), the catalytic converter, the
engine (if it runs) can all be listed on www.ebay.com or your local paper.
Some EV converters can get several hundred dollars back by placing a 3 dollar
advertisement or ebay listing. You've got nothing to lose and a few dollars to gain
so give it a shot! You may want to wipe the engine first with the waste fuel from the
tank or an automotive de-greaser from an auto parts store.

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Removing The Gearbox

If you haven't done it already, remove the gearbox from the car. If it's a front-wheel
drive system it can be a little tricky to get the two drive-shafts (from each side of
the gearbox to the each front wheel) out of each side of the gearbox.
(Gearbox removed with clutch disc visible)
You'll find either an accomplice or a hoist will help here as you wiggle the gearbox
frantically in every direction. When the shafts finally pop out, be ready with plenty
of newspaper and some rags as quite often the gearbox oil will spill out through the
now open drive-shaft holes all over your floor. This type of oil is hard to remove and
often smells quite bad.
By now your donor car should be empty, clean and ready to become electric
powered! All that's left to do to sell any useful engine parts you've removed.
Onwards to Chapter #5!

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Chapter #5
Planning The Location Of
Components
If you're using a sedan or hatchback, remove the carpet and plastic paneling from
the trunk, then measure the space as best you can. Take photos too if you can.
If you're converting a ute or pickup truck, lift or remove the back tray to see the
chassis underneath, and measure the available spaces in there too.
Together with photos and measurements you'll be able to make decisions on battery
sizes and component locations without leaving your computer chair as running back
and forth between the PC and the garage gets a little boring after a while.
By now you should have decided which batteries you're going to use for your
conversion. I recommend making a cardboard mock-up from the battery
dimensions. Try to make it as accurate as possible and see how it fits into your
donor car in the real world. You'll probably be surprised how big the battery is in
real life. This is good, it'll give you an idea of where they can go and how they fit.
As I used a small sedan in my conversion, I was forced to split the battery pack into
2 sections. I had six 12 volt batteries in a box in the trunk, and another six 12 volt
batteries in the engine bay like this:

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(Batteries installed in the front)

and
(Batteries installed in the back)

This had the benefit of keeping the car's weight quite even between the front and
rear tires. You may want to do something similar if you're using a sedan or
hatchback. Alternatively you could split the battery pack up into even more sections
by placing 2 or 4r batteries under the back seat.

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Make sure they'll fit safely before you do this though. Take into consideration the
clearance between the seat and the battery terminals, as well as the bottom of the
batteries to ensure they're not removed at the first speed bump!
If you're using a pickup truck or utility, you can often fit the entire battery pack into
the rear tray itself. This can save a lot of time and effort but it can raise the center
of gravity slightly, making the car feel more 'wobbly' going around corners.
If you have the time and skill, try to include the battery pack into the lower frame
of the vehicle, hidden below the actual tray. This will keep your center of gravity
lower, giving you a bit more stability around corners.
As every car is different and every conversion has different components, it will
require your own cunning and creativity to fit your exact battery size & type
into your chosen donor car. If you've ever played with Lego or if you've ever put a
jigsaw puzzle together you'll have a pretty good idea of what's involved. It's like a
jigsaw puzzle but bigger.
If you do find yourself getting stuck, try asking your local mechanic or another EV
converter in your area as he or she will almost certainly be able to offer solutions
for your battery location woes.
Keep in mind that approximately every 2 months you're going to have to top up the
water in your batteries (unless you're using the more expensive Sealed Lead Acid
batteries), so ensure the tops of your batteries are easily accessible without
having to dismantle the car!
Your controller needs a dry place to live inside your electric car. I recommend
placing the controller on the car's firewall or on a shelf, away from the front grille in
case of heavy rain like this:

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See how the controller (rear, right) is sitting on a heat sink (in this case a simple
sheet of aluminum)? This helps to remove the heat generated while driving, and if
you're driving a lot your controller will get quite hot.
Many converters will integrate a fan with under the controller's heat sink to help
remove the heat. This is strongly recommended if you live in a warm climate
or you may see your controller turning into an impressive fireball under load.
You're also going to need a home for the main components of your electric car such
as the circuit breaker, fuses and any relays your system might need. In my case I
used the cream colored box on the left of the controller in the photo above. You'll
notice all the cabling is concealed underneath the board. It's easy to do and it
makes for a very tidy conversion. Too often I've seen beautiful conversions made
messy by a sea of wires under the hood.

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If you're a stickler for tidiness (like me for example) you can try this experiment
to hunt down offending mess you weren't aware of:
Open your hood, then look away at something else and close your eyes.
Turn back to the engine bay and open your eyes.
Note down the first thing that takes your interest or looks messy that's the
first thing someone else will notice too!
Your neighbors will think you've lost your mind if they see you performing this
technique, but trust me - it works!
You'll also need to decide where your cable will run and how many lengths you'll
need. Have a good look under the car for pockets to run your cables in such as the
route that the exhaust pipe or fuel lines used. You can try using a rope or a long
tape measure to do this.
Lastly, you need to take the measurements of your choice of electric motor and see
how they'll fit into your engine bay. Measure from the open end (aka bell end) of
the gearbox housing to the side of the car and make sure there's enough space for
the motor and its tail shaft (if it has one).
Make sure there's enough room left over for a motor mount to fit in too (covered in
the next chapter). If possibly, you should have at least 3 or 4 inches available
between the end of the motor and the side of the car's engine bay just in case you
need to run cables or vacuum lines - or maybe get a rag in there to clean your pride
and joy!

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Chapter #6
Installing the Motor
Time to get that motor installed onto your gearbox! I consider this the most difficult
part of the conversion as it requires a bit of precision to couple the two together.
Once this part's done the rest will fall into place.
You have 3 options with obtaining a gearbox coupler:

1. Build it yourself
2. Outsource the job to a local garage or engineer
3. Obtain an adapter plate kit from an EV supplier
(if they have your car's model in their catalog).
For the purposes of simplicity and cost I recommend using the popular clutchless
adapter & coupler method It's lighter, simpler and easier than keeping the
clutch though it does require learning how to change gear without a clutch.
It's not difficult, though changing gear without the clutch in an electric car takes an
extra 2 or 3 seconds to do. The benefit of an EV however is that you'll actually
change gear very rarely. In fact most days I've done all my driving in 2nd gear
ranging from a complete standstill to 45mph (72km/h) never once touching the
gear lever!

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The basic assembly of a gearbox to motor adapter looks like this:

1: The adapter plate, which both the motor and the gearbox bolt
to from each side.
2: The keyed socket which fits the motor shaft, which needs to
be precision-welded to:
3: The car's old clutch disc.
4: The car's gearbox.
I can't stress enough just how important it is to have this assembly perfectly
straight. Even just 1 millimeter of imbalance will create a noticeable vibration while
driving, and the coupler will eventually break - most likely when you're showing off
your motor's torque at a red light!

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Unless you have some serious tools in your garage (such as a lathe) I'd recommend
giving this particular task out to a friend or colleague with machining skills, or even
finding an engineer to fabricate a coupler for you. That way you know it won't break
or if it does, you have someone to blame other than yourself!
If you have an adventurous streak and you're keen to give it a go, then I'll explain
what's involved. Firstly, let's look at a typical motor shaft:
Typical motor shaft
and
Typical gearbox shaft

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Some gearboxes have a pilot shaft on the end, making the entire shaft very long
such as this one:
With long gearbox shafts you have 2 options: you can either cut the pilot shaft off
(recommended), or you can use a spacer plate often a thick circle of metal with
the center removed. This would go between the gearbox and motor to move the 2
further apart, so the long gearbox shaft can remain unmodified. This is a little more
complicated and often unnecessary if your pilot shaft has no threading or spline and
serves no purpose in its new role. Here's a picture of the same gearbox with the
pilot shaft simply cut off with an angle grinder:

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The gearbox adapter method I recommend using is the Lovejoy coupler, which is a
ready-made coupler designed for keyed shafts (which most DC motors have) and it
simply slides onto your electric motor shaft. All that's needed is to enlarge the hole
in the other end for your clutch disc spline to insert into.
Here's a picture of a Lovejoy coupler with the car's clutch spline removed from the
center of the clutch disc, reduced in size and smoothed out to fit, ready to be
popped straight in:
The above spline (removed from the center of the clutch disc) has been milled down
in size, and the front of the Lovejoy coupler has been drilled out larger.
Once the hole in the front of your Lovejoy coupler is enlarged, the clutch spline
should fit snugly in so it can be welded in place externally. This weld must be able
to move the weight of the car under load or acceleration so make sure it's tough.
If you're not comfortable with machining out your clutch spline and/or welding it
into a Lovejoy coupler, take the coupler and Lovejoy connector to an engineer, let
them do that part and you could simply make the adapter plate itself.
To make the adapter plate you'll need to work out exactly how thick it should be, so
that the coupler will fit in between the shafts perfectly without any lateral
movement.

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Every gearbox is different, so you'll have to figure out your critical distance
between the front of your electric motor and the front of the gearbox's bell housing,
and then the distances between the two shafts in order to make your coupler. Some
people even cut out a portion of their gearbox's bell housings for a better view.
This coupling can take a few attempts to get it just right so be patient. This is a
crucial part for your EV and shouldn't be rushed!
Here's a picture of the above coupler in place:
Notice in this conversion the shape of the adapter plate where the motor attaches?
If you're not up to machining a piece of metal into the same shape you could simply
double up the width of the plate with 2 metal sheets on top of each other.
Once you have your motor coupler installed, your motor bolted to your adapter
plate, and your adapter plate bolted to the gearbox, give them a test spin by
applying a 12 volt battery to the terminals of your motor. It should spin without any
noticeable vibration. If there is a noticeable vibration then take it apart and finetune it while you still can. If you don't, it'll be the first thing people notice when you
take them for a spin!

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Important note about motor rotation: Most large DC motors are set up to spin
counter-clockwise (if you're looking down the motor's main shaft), while most car
gearboxes spin in a clockwise direction (if you're looking down the gearbox shaft).
This suits most conversions just great as the two can join straight together.
Some gearboxes however spin in a counter-clockwise direction, which means your
car would end up having 4 or 5 reverse gears and one forward gear. This is often
fixable by changing the brush timing inside the motor and reversing the polarity of
the input power.
As a general rule of thumb the brushes are considered neutral when they line up
in-line with the motor's field coil pole shoe bolts on the sides of the motor.
To advance the motor's timing you must move the brushes opposite the motors
rotation by a number of degrees relative to your voltage. Warp and Advance motors
come with both direction advancement holes already, and if you're buying a new
motor, tell your supplier which model of car you have so they can adjust the motor
rotation direction for you.
If you're using a second hand motor you can check the timing easily by taking off
the motor's cover:

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The above motor is set for Counter-Clockwise rotation which is the most common
rotation used. For some small cars (Hondas) you'd need to rotate the commutator
plate till the brushes fell on the other side of the line. Many motors have readymade bolts for this exact purpose.
If you've taken the cover off but you're still in doubt you may want to check with
motor guru Jim Husted of Hi-Torque Electric or try doing a search of his site for
instructions: http://www.hitorqueelectric.com/contact/
Just remember, a picture is worth a thousand words so take plenty. It makes motor
identifying so much easier.
The next step is to install the motor into your car's engine bay. This part is different
for every car. Like gearbox adapters, electric motor mounts are often available for
your specific car, saving you the hassle of making your own. You could try
contacting some of the EV parts dealers if you're not in the mood for a bit of
welding!
Here's a picture of my motor installed into its new home:

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In my EV I removed the rubber mounts completely in order to simplify the

installation. This isn't a problem for the motor as the purpose of the rubber mounts
is to reduce the engine's vibration from running through the body of the car. Electric
motors have no vibration so with the mounts removed you won't feel any
difference, though you may notice more gearbox noise traveling through the car.
Keeping the rubber in your motor mounts is completely optional.
The next car I convert will have the rubber mounts removed again for simplicity but
there are noise reduction benefits to keeping them installed.
As well as the motor being mounted to the gearbox and the car's frame, you'll need
at least one other support holding the motor to the frame of the car, and there must
be one lateral mount installed. Without a lateral mount (to prevent the motor
twisting under load) your mounts will weaken and the coupler could snap.
Everything must be kept firmly in its place.
Here's an example of the lateral mount
I used in my own conversion:
You can see it running from the motor & gearbox adapter down to the frame where
the previous engine mount was located. This lateral mount meant that the motor
didn't twist even when I was showing off with a heavy right foot!
If you want to keep the rubber mounts, you can often create new motor mounts

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from your engine's existing mounts: Start by grinding any useless arms or
extremities off the existing mount, then smooth down and weld on your own arm,
reaching to your motor with bolt holes where necessary.
If you want to ditch the rubber mounts then you can often make your own mounts
from hollow metal tube, angle-iron, and an hour with a welder.
Remember to always cover your motor when welding near it. Use an old towel
or rag and tape it up, making sure no sparks or bits of metal end up inside it.
By now you'll have a basic idea of what's required to join your motor to your
gearbox and where to install your own mounts if you're making your own. Just
remember though, this is one area where you don't want to cut corners. If you
make it strong, you can't go wrong! And to think I never took up poetry in high
school...
On to chapter #7!

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Chapter #7
Installing the Controller
Depending on what make and model of controller you'll need to read the included
instructions thoroughly before wiring it up, so in this chapter we're going to focus
on the physical installation.
The 2 most important things to take into consideration when positioning your
controller are dryness and airflow.
As you can see in the photo above, the controller in my own conversion is sitting
on an aluminum plate which is raised off the support board to allow air to flow
underneath the controller.
The purpose of the aluminum plate is to dissipate heat from the base of the
controller. Aluminum is good for this purpose, though in my case I was only driving
short distances in moderately cool weather most of the time.
I found that the controller never got hot to the touch in my case but in conversions
in hot climates or with heavy load driving the controller can often become too hot to
touch which isn't good for the components inside and will shorten the life of often
the most expensive component in an EV.

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To combat this you have a couple of options. You can buy ready-made heatsink kits
from many EV parts suppliers with fans included for approximately $200 to $300 US
or you can have a go yourself!
To create and install a heatsink under the controller you have 2 options:
installing a basic sheet of aluminum to dissipate heat, or
installing a finned heatsink with fans underneath it forcing air under the
controller.
In the picture above, the heatsink assembly is being fitted onto the controller and
its mounting board. (Note: the controller is upside down).
The mounting board in this conversion is a sheet of polypropylene (an excellent
insulator) with a large hole cut into it so the controller can maintain contact with
the heatsink and its 2 fans.

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This is the same heatsink design disassembled. The controller sits on top of the
assembly, under that is a thin aluminum sheet with heat transferring gel in
between, then the heatsink running through the polypropylene mounting board,
then another sheet with 2 small DC fans operating. A great design and simple too.
You'll have to decide which method is best for you. If you're uncertain, try using a
simple sheet of aluminum raised off the board and monitor it closely every time you
drive. If it gets worryingly hot then look at forcing air under it.
Some converters install temperature gauges on the heatsink next to the controller
to monitor its temperature. You may consider doing the same. If so, keep an eye
out for temperature gauges that you can monitor from a cheap digital multimeter.
This can save a fair amount of time and money on a professional setup if you don't
mind a multimeter sitting on the dashboard.
The next consideration with mounting your controller is where exactly to put it.
Remember that this is a fairly sensitive piece of equipment and they dislike water.
Controllers such as the Curtis brand are sealed, but moisture is a creative
substance and will often find a way in somehow!

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Just like the above picture, I recommend mounting the controller on an insulated
board as far back from the front grille as possible.
Don't consider mounting the controller inside the car. While doing so may offer
relief for cold hands in winter, running your high voltage cables inside the car is a
not recommended and many inspectors will not approve a car with the high voltage
lines in the passenger compartment.
If you're planning on mounting your controller on its side or out of the way, while
it's not a problem with most controllers (check your controller's manual), keep in
mind the complications involved if you have a problem with your controller or plan
on upgrading at some stage.

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Removing parts can be a real pain if there are things installed on top. Sometimes
this just isn't an option in tight engine bays full of batteries but do keep component
breakdowns in mind if you can as rare as they are.
Chapter #8
Installing The Components
Good news! All the hard work and brainstorming is over and from here on the work
gets fun! By now you should have a box of components from EV parts suppliers,
junkyards, forklift parts suppliers and ebay. Time to find homes for them all!
As mentioned in the previous chapter, I recommend installing a control shelf for all
your components to sit on, and maybe even a control box to keep things tidy. One
of the big benefits of a control shelf is that everything is kept in one location,
making it easier to find and fix faults as well as keeping wiring to a minimum
often hidden underneath the board. Don't underestimate the impact that tidy wiring
will have on first impressions of your EV's engine bay. People will see the lack of
wire everywhere and say where is everything?. It's very satisfying!
Connecting The Potbox

The first step is to connect your potbox or potentiometer box to your accelerator
cable. Find somewhere convenient but out of the way of the other components.
Remember to keep a gentle bend on the accelerator cable as it comes through the
car's firewall. Bending it too tightly will increase its resistance and you could find
the accelerator sticks on. While flying through a stop sign at 40 mph is often a good
conversation starter, I don't recommend it.
I know it sounds obvious, but make sure your potbox is the right way up. If your
car is right-hand-drive then you may have to mount it upside down so that the arm
moves the correct way. The arm should pull towards the driver when the accelerator
is pressed down.

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As well at the long coiled cable coming out of the potbox, you'll notice there are
3 pins on the underside. These are for the High Pedal Lockout a simple system to
stop any damage to your motor or people in the event of turning the key while your
foot is on the gas and while your car is in gear.
Here's a simple circuit diagram of how a High Pedal Lockout relay works:
Using the pins on the underside of the pot box and a 12v automotive relay you're
able to protect your car from starting while you're foot's pressing down on the gas
a habit some gas car drivers have for starting older cars on cold mornings.
With the relay in place, the contactor won't click until your foot's off the accelerator.
Once your foot is off, you can turn the key and it will click on. Notice the wire bridge
between points 6 and 7 this forces the contactor to stay on once you've started
the car, until you turn off the key. Easy!
As I've mentioned before, if you want a tidy EV then I recommend installing your
components into a box of some sort with a lid. Not only does it hide all the wiring
but it keeps the dust and moisture off your components too.

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Place this box onto a board, preferably some sort of poly-resin or hard wood. I don't
recommend placing your high voltage components on a metal shelf as there's
always the risk of shorting things out by mistake.
Meter Installation
You'll need to find a place to hide your Voltmeter and Ammeter in your car. I've
seen all manner of curious hiding locations for these important gauges just put
them wherever you want.
This is another key component that people will look at and ask about so I
recommend placing them somewhere tidy and hiding your wiring behind the
dashboard wherever possible.
You'll notice your Ammeter has a shunt with it. Or at least it should you'll need
one of these! Mounting the shunt inside the component box is a good idea to keep it
out of the way. As shown in the Introduction, the shunt is a piece of passive
equipment that takes the high amperage load flying through the circuit and allows a
tiny signal to flow to your ammeter, your ammeter translates and reads this signal
out as the actual amperage.
Fuse Installation
You should have at least 2 high voltage fuses in your EV (as seen in the
introduction). Depending on your battery configuration you could have one at the
front and one at the back.
These fuses are there in the event of a short circuit that could cause batteries to
explode. In the event of an emergency your circuit breaker should trip before the
fuses blow. Or at least we hope high voltage fuses aren't cheap! If you can,
mount one of these fuses inside your connection box to keep things tidy.

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Circuit Breaker Installation

If space permits, I recommend mounting your circuit breaker inside your connection
box also don't mount it inside, even if it's convenient as in many countries this
isn't allowed. It must be able to be tripped from the driver's seat though, so most
EV converters will install a pull-cable running from the dashboard to the circuit
breaker handle. I used an old choke cable and choke knob from an old car and
drilled a small hole in the circuit breaker's handle to run it through and secure it.
Inertia Switch Connection & Installation

Next on the installation list is your crash switch or inertia switch (as seen in the
introduction). This should be mounted to the chassis of the car, near the front but
not on the bumper. Fix it securely to a metal part of the frame close to the front
bumper so that in the event of a crash it will trip and break the contactor. Run the
ignition on cable that you tapped into the ignition through your inertia switch so it
will kill all the 12v electrics (and subsequently the high voltage electrics) if tripped.
Some converters have found resettable inertia switches in auto wreckers yards. Talk
to your local wrecker to see if he has any 2nd hand ones in stock as new ones are
around $80 US each.
The Accessories Battery & DC to DC Converter

To run your headlights, turn signals, wipers etc you'll need to keep a 12 volt
Accessories battery in your car. Of course if this battery has no method of being
charged it'll go flat very quickly.
You have 2 options to keep it charged up:
Option one is a cheap but slightly inconvenient method. When you plug your
car in to recharge, you could also connect a separate 12 volt battery charger
to the car's accessories battery. I tried this for several months on my own EV
and I found it took an extra minute after each drive and it became quite
annoying quite quickly. One way around this is to put a small plug on the end
of the charging leads, and a small socket on your bumper or inside the filler
cap connected straight to the car's accessories battery. So when you pop your
filler cap to plug in your car, you can also plug your 12 volt charger into it's
own plug too.

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Option two costs a little more but is much easier and requires less of that
how much does the battery have left anxiety and worry. Option two is called a
DC to DC Converter which takes whatever your car's voltage may be (eg. 96
volts DC) and converts it into 12 volts DC to keep your accessories battery all
charged up while you drive.
Building Your Own DC To DC Converter
This is an example of a computer graphics power supply which I modified to turn it

into a DC to DC converter. Buying a "proper" DC to DC converter from some EV part
suppliers with the same 30 Amp output would have cost me $199 US + shipping.
But by using the above Thermaltake 450 Watt Power Express at $61 US (+ shipping
from Amazon.com) I kept $140 US in my pocket! You can do the exact same thing
using the easy instructions below, or if it seems a little too much for you then
consider buying a factory made DC-DC converter from almost any EV parts dealer.
If you'd like to try modifying a computer PSU (power supply unit) yourself then
follow me!

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Minor circuit modifications are required for this model of PSU because by design it
puts out 12.05 volts, however to keep a car battery charged up, the output voltage
needs to be a little higher, such as 13 volts.
I found I could force it up to a stable 13.7 volts before it's over-voltage protection
kicks and the unit powers itself off, though I also found at that voltage too much
load will switch it off quite easily and the last thing you want is your power supply
turning off when you have your lights, wipers & heater going flat out!
After installing a $2 0-5k ohm potentiometer I found around 12.7 volts output
gave me super-stability even with every electric option in the car running full blast.
You'll rarely have every single electric option in the car running at once so you could
try taking the risk and putting it up near 13.2 or 13.5 volts if it will take it without
switching off. Learning is part of the fun in this case and once it's fired up you can
adjust the voltage with the potentiometer until it's perfect for your car. If the unit
switches off, wait 30 seconds with the input power disconnected and try it again.

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It'll power up again after it's had a moment to breathe.
In order to tweak the output voltage you'll have to take off the cover and remove
the little resistor numbered R34, and replace it with some wire and a little
potentiometer. I've circled R34 in the above picture. The mains power input cable
can simply have it's wall-plug chopped off and put straight across your battery
pack. While I've run the PSU on my car's 144 volt system fine, I've also heard it'll
run happily all the way down to 72 volts!
You may want to chop the tiny plug off and short out (connect the wires to each
other) on the thin green & black cable poking out. These wires turn the unit on. By
having them short-circuited the unit will always be on whenever there is power
coming in which is convenient.

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In the above picture you can see the DC-DC converter sitting in a plastic box
(actually a lunch box) with the little potentiometer positioned on top. Having the
potentiometer located somewhere easily accessible is always a good idea so you
can adjust the output voltage without having to take things out.
If you can fit it, this would look good inside your component box, away from water
mist and as with any component, make sure you have a fuse on the power going in
(10A should be sufficient) and a fuse on the power coming out (25A or 30A
suggested).
To view the online discussion on the modifications for this PSU follow this link to the
EV forum: http://www.evsecrets.com/recommends/dc-dc-converters.html
Be warned though, it's a long read!

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Vacuum Brake System Installation

Next on the installation list is a vacuum pump to keep your brake system working
(as seen in the introduction). If you car was made after the 60's, chances are it'll
have vacuum assisted brakes.
By using the available vacuum that gas engines naturally create, vacuum assisted
brakes allow you to press effortlessly and gently on the brake pedal while in
response your brakes are grabbing hold tightly. Without the vacuum, your brake
pedal will turn into an unresponsive brick and you'll find yourself flying through
busy intersections at speed with a look of terror on your face.
So trust me, you'll want a vacuum pump! Unfortunately 12 volt vacuum pumps are
quite expensive things, as are 12 volt vacuum switches and you'll need one of
those to tell the pump when there's enough vacuum and to turn itself off until the
brakes are pressed again.
For this setup you'll need the following 3 things:
12 volt vacuum pump.

12 volt vacuum switch.
One way valve which stops the vacuum leaking back through the pump.
Some converters have found 12 volt vacuum pumps in auto wreckers yards that
certain makes of cars (older Fords and GMs) use. Annoyingly new vacuum pumps
can be around $300 each so by all means search on google, ebay and also talk to
your local auto wrecker. You might be pleasantly surprised.
Wiring up your vacuum pump is a piece of cake as there's only 2 wires running
through the vacuum switch, however mounting your pump can be a little trickier as
these pumps are notoriously loud and have a lot of vibration. The last thing you
want is to pull up in a mall parking lot as everyone turns to see your silent car then
the BRRRRRRRR noise begins under the hood!
Be sure to have a large Vacuum Reservoir between the pump and your brake's
master cylinder (normally a large casserole pot-shaped thing on the firewall).

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Vacuum reservoir tank visible behind front grille:
Many converters use a 100 mm (approx 4 inch) diameter PVC pipe with end-caps
on each end for their vacuum reservoir. Approximately 4 liters in size should be
sufficient for the average car. The larger the reservoir, the more the pump will work
but the less often it'll work, and they can be noisy little suckers literally.
I mounted my vacuum pump in a chunky little wooden box sitting on a rubber mat.
It worked, but not enough for my liking. Others have mounted their pumps on large
(2 inches high) flexible rubber pads with great results. I've even seen one converter
build a rubber hammock in the back of his car so his pump hangs off away from the
car frame it sounds crazy but he promises that it's inaudible!
So be adventurous and do what you can to keep the pump off the metal frame of
the car and keep your EV as silent as possible to impress passers by.

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Power Steering Options

Does your donor car have power steering? If so you may be required by law to keep
it in the car. Check with your local DMV or MOT or other automobile related
acronym to see what the rules are.
From my experience you have 4 options with power steering:
Option#1: Remove the power steering lines & pump and loop the input & output
lines together on your steering rack. While your steering will feel heavier and it may
make parking a little less enjoyable, you can save yourself a lot of effort, a chunk of
time, and a few dollars by looping your power steering lines. Sadly this option isn't
allowed in some countries so before you hack away at your system send your local
department of transport an email.
Option#2: Install a separate electric motor to run your power steering pump. This
could either be a 12 volt motor or a motor suited to your car's main battery pack
voltage. If you're planning to use a 12 volt motor, make sure you use a grunty one,
and take note of the amperage drain it could trip your DC to DC converter. The
main benefit of this option is that you can turn the power steering on or off from a
button on your dashboard. Because power steering is a power-hungry option, the
option to turn it off when not needed will save you that much needed extra range.
Option#3: Install the power steering pump onto the tail shaft of your car's big
electric motor. The plus side to this is simplicity. The down side is that when you
need it the most (when stopped) it won't work unless you keep the motor spinning.
It means you'd have to keep your foot gently on the accelerator, keep the other foot
on the brake pedal and try to steer & park at the same time. If you're a natural
born multi-tasker then perhaps it's not a big issue for you and you could consider
that option.
Option#4: The last option is to replace your power steering rack with a manual
steering rack. If your donor car has a model or version made without power
steering then this is probably the least fuss option. Try to find an automotive
wrecker and get your hands on a manual steering rack to replace your power
steering rack. It may take an afternoon but you'll save yourself a little complication.
Sadly this is only an option for cars that put out non-power steering models as well
as power steering models.

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Air Conditioning Options

Do you want to keep the air conditioning in your donor car (if it has it?). In some
parts of the world air conditioning is a pure essential. Keeping it running in an
electric car is similar to the problems faced with power steering: you have to find a
way to keep the compressor turning.
Your 3 main options are:
Option#1: Install a supplemental electric motor attached to the car's compressor.
This is by far the best method as it can be turned on and off when the air
conditioning button is either on or off. The supplemental pump can either be a 12
volt pump or a pump at your car's pack voltage. If you're using a 12 volt pump
make sure the amperage draw won't trip your DC to DC converter.
Option#2 Connect your air conditioning compressor to the tailshaft of your car's
main electric motor. This may require a bit of plumbing by an air conditioning
technician to move the compressor to the tail area of your motor. Unfortunately, like
power steering, your air conditioning won't be running if your car is stationary.
You'd have to keep the motor turning when stopped to keep the compressor
running. If this isn't likely to be an issue for you then give it a shot! Note: when
working on your air conditioning system, be sure to extract the refrigerant first. In
some older cars the gas used is called Freon (aka R12) which will deplete the ozone
layer if released into the atmosphere. Not to mention there are some pretty hefty
fines for doing so. Any automotive air conditioning shop can take the gas out for
you for next to nothing.
Option#3 Some converters have done some creative things to sort out their air
conditioning woes. One popular idea is turning a portable icebox (aka a chilly bin or
eski) into a little air conditioning unit with air ducts coming out from the lid and a
12 volt fan built in. The idea is for air to be drawn in, pushed through piping with
icy water around it, then blown out through fans towards the driver. This way you
can refill the icebox from your own freezer too.

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Chapter #9
Installing a Heater
Unless you live in the tropics, you probably need a heater in your EV. In fact in
some countries having a heater is actually a legal requirement in order to defog
the inside of your windscreen.
But which heater do you choose? There are a few choices to be had with choosing a
heater for your EV. You could install a small propane powered heater, or install an
electric kettle element into the water pipes of your heater, but in honor of the
K.I.S.S rule of thumb (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) we'll look at the simplest & cheapest
method installing a standard 110 volt ceramic element in place of your car's
existing heater core.
There are kits you can buy from most EV parts suppliers which require simple
installation into your heater core, but I recommend doing it yourself. As long as
your car's voltage is 96 volts or higher you should get reliable, instant heat as soon
as you turn the key.
If you're planning on a lower voltage than 96 volts, you may find the performance
of a household 110 volt element a little lackluster. In which case I suggest you look
into installing a small propane heater with a little propane tank (quite effective) or
as a last resort, using a 12 volt heater. 12 volt heaters are quite gutless and
unimpressive in most cases because of the low voltage only being able to pull
limited amperage.
To create your own 110 volt in-dash heater you'll need the following:
1: A 110 volt ceramic heater (from any typical home wares store)
2: A DC to DC relay to turn the heater on & off from a 12 volt dash switch

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3: A tube of high temperature sealant to support and insulate the element inside
the old heater core. This is a typical 110 volt ceramic heater. Not sure how to pick
out a ceramic heater from the others? It's easy, have a close look at the element
behind the grille:
See the little blocks in between each element? Those are ceramic and make these
element's ideal for EV heater applications. Make sure the heater you buy has those
little blocks.

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Next, remove your car's heater core. Now this is normally easier said than done and
in extreme situations may require you to take the lower half of your dashboard
apart. The pipes feeding your heater core can be cut off as they're no longer
needed, though be warned, they're probably still full of water! If you have the spare
time to carry on with other projects, I recommend leaving the core to dry out for a
few weeks. Forcing hot air through it via an electric heat-gun or gas torch will speed
the process up if you're in a hurry to get your EV on the road.

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Once your heater core is dry, place your ceramic element on top and trace around it
with a marker or screw driver, allowing a few millimeters of extra space. Once that's
done it's time to get out a hacksaw or grinder and cut out the space. The ceramic
element should be able to fit inside the hole with a little clearance around it.
Grab your high temperature sealant and build a barrier around the inside of the
heater core to stop the element touching the metal core. You'll most likely have to
leave it overnight to cure. For safety, once it's cured grab a multimeter and make
sure it has a high resistance just like an insulator should.
Some sealants may have a metallic content and allow high voltage current to leak
through though this is rare. At this stage it's easy to change sealants if you find it
doesn't offer good resistance & it's certainly better to find out now rather than after
your heater's installed.

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Place your element inside the core and continue sealing it in. No part of the element
should touch the metal heater core. Afterwards, block up the hole in the heater core
by placing a piece of metal over it but make sure the metal does not touch the
element directly!
Like the photo above, there must be a layer of high temperature sealant between
the metal blocking plate and the element. Once it's cured, make a new hole in the
end of the core, or use one of the existing pipe-holes to run the cables through. I
recommend putting some sealant or soft glue in the hole too as it'll stop the wires
chafing on the sharp metal edges while driving.
You should now have 2 different colored wires coming out of the heater core, one
will be negative and the other positive. Don't worry about which one is which
heater cores like these can be wired up either forwards or backwards as they're
basically a giant heat-generating resistor.

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You're going to need a way to turn off this high voltage heater element from a
standard 12 volt dashboard switch, in which case you'll need a 12 volt relay that
switches on a much higher voltage. A relay like this Omron Solid State relay is one
option. (no moving parts)
They're normally around $25 from electrical suppliers but through the Internet
you're bound to find one at a cheaper price.

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Here's how to wire it up:
Please note that the above picture does not include the contactor or circuit breaker,
it's only to show how the relay controls the voltage to the heater core. The diagram
also displays a 144v system but it's only for illustration purposes. See how the 12
volt switch running from your accessories power supply can turn on the high
voltage current? It's very convenient and saves running the high voltage cables
through the passenger compartment of the car which is not allowed in many
countries.
Be aware that you should always fuse any circuit running off the car's main
battery pack. If there's a short circuit without a fuse you can guarantee some
fireworks coming from your dashboard. While setting your dashboard on fire will
warm your car up quite nicely it's certainly not recommended - use a fuse for
safety's sake.

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Chapter #10
Installing the Batteries
Now is the time to buy your batteries and your charger. Now is also a good time to
double-check your measurements to ensure the batteries will actually fit into the
car. If you're welding or bolting together your own battery racks, make sure they'll
be able to stay in one place in the event of a serious accident.
In New Zealand, the rules state that the battery rack must be able to withstand a
force 20 times the weight of the batteries in the event of an accident. This is a good
rule of thumb to aim for as the last thing you need in an accident is your batteries
upside down, leaking acid and shorting out.
A popular (and inexpensive) metal used for battery racks is Angle Iron, which is
an L-shaped length of steel available from most scrap dealers or engineers'
workshops for next to nothing.
(Angle Iron being used to fabricate battery mounts)

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Once you've bolted or welded your mighty frame together to support your batteries,
make sure you round off any sharp edges with an angle grinder. In the event of a
serious accident, sharp edges bolted to sheet metal (the trunk floor for example)
will tear through the metal as if it were soggy toilet paper.
When bolting or welding your battery racks into the car, make sure you are
attaching the racks to the frame of the car, not the engine bay or trunk paneling.
You should be able to jump up & down on your racks afterwards with absolutely no
movement. Each car is designed differently so if you're in doubt, ask a mechanic.
Once your batteries are installed into the front and/or back, you're going to need to
look at venting. Lead acid batteries will bubble and release hydrogen gas during
charging. This is normal, though you need to vent this gas away from the batteries
and the car to eliminate the risk of those pesky explosions when you turn the key
and the contactor arcs closed.
In most countries, batteries in the front of your car will not need venting as they're
outside the passenger compartment; this is the same for batteries sitting in a tray
or box on the back of a flatbed pickup truck or utility.
Batteries in the trunk however are considered inside the passenger compartment
and will need to be in a sealed box with a vent and a fan to extract the hydrogen
gas outside.
In many countries the law states your battery box must be:
fire resistant,
acid resistant
waterproof.

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I made my rear battery box (pictured above) out of thick wood paneling, then
applied 2 generous layers of POR-15, a rust-neutralizing resin-like paint which is fire
resistant, acid resistant and waterproof. It did the job quite neatly, was cheap, and
it ticked all the right boxes for safety.
As you can see, I placed my battery box above the trunk floor for simplicity.
If you need your trunk space, I recommend cutting into your floor and placing the
batteries rack lower down towards the ground.
Once your batteries are into the box, it's time to secure them in... securely!

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Some converters will place an insulated bar across the top of each row, like above.
It makes for a strong yet inexpensive solution.
Make sure there's no lateral movement in the bar, or you could find a row of
batteries shorting out and exploding- which makes for great conversation, but costs
a lot to fix.

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Another cheap method that others (including myself) have used is Bandit straps:
These are stainless steel straps that can be tightened and fastened with a special
tool, then clamped down with special clamps. These straps are very strong but
can also be a short circuit hazard and should be insulated through a thick PVC flexitube as above.
Once your batteries are secured in the passenger compartment, you need to put on
a sealed lid. I made mine from the same wood with the same resin shell painted on
the inside, with a silicon strip between the battery box and the battery box lid.
Now that the box is complete, you need to consider the removal of the hydrogen
gas when charging & driving. Be sure to use a 12 volt DC brushless fan for the
extraction as they have no risk of sparking. 12 volt brushless fans are cheap, easy
to find (http://www.eBay.com has many) and quite efficient; typically using only 5
to 10 watts when running.

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Once you have your fan installed into the box you'll need to have it running both
during driving and when charging. Not only that, but in some countries it's a
requirement to have the extraction fan run for 5 minutes after you've finished
driving or charging.
Don't worry though; the easy solution to this problem is to run the fan through a
turbo-timer. Turbo timers are designed to extend the life of the turbocharger by
keeping the engine running even after the driver has turned off the key and walked
away. Turbo timers are simple 12 volt devices that usually have 4 wires: an
always on power input wire, a supply wire from your car's ignition, a power out
to your extraction fan, and an earth wire. Check the specific instructions with your
turbo timer before wiring it in.
In order to have the fan turn on while charging, you may wish to wire a simple
switch onto your gas cap that allows 12 volts to flow to the turbo timer when the
gas cap is opened, and then the turbo timer will continue to run 5 minutes after
you've finished charging and closed the gas cap.
The extracted air should flow straight to the outside of the car. Most commonly I've
seen it done through the floor of the car. As far as bargain hunting goes
www.Ebay.com is by far the best place to find cheap second hand turbo timers.

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Chapter #11
Wiring Up The Batteries
You're almost there! Now it's time to get some cable for those batteries, then cut it,
crimp it and connect it!
For all street conversions I recommend 2/0 gauge (70mm) welding cable as your
main battery cable. It may be slightly more than the average conversion needs
but you'll have no problems with resistance or your cable overheating from having a
heavy right foot! You could try a 4/0 or smaller but the risk of cables overheating
grows with each step down in cable size.
For the short cable lengths in between batteries, some converters have used solid
copper bars. It's faster and cheaper than having cable cut & crimped. Like anything
however, it has its drawbacks: welding cable offers flexibility between the battery
terminals while driving but solid bars do not so if you're not careful in your design
you might notice battery acid leaking around the battery terminals from physical
stress after a few months of driving. Also, be sure to insulate the bars with thick
heat shrink if you're planning on using the copper bar method.

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Welding cable is recommended because it's designed for high amperage loads while
still being a fairly flexible cable for its size. It achieves this by using many fine
conductors inside the cable, instead of a few thick ones. Unfortunately it's not a
cheap cable, so shop around. Welding suppliers are often the best places to ask, but
some EV parts suppliers buy in bulk and can also offer good pricing.
Either way you'll need to measure just how much cable you're going to need.
As an example, this is the basic wiring layout of my own conversion. The electric
motor is removed from this particular diagram, but it will give you an idea of how
you could run your own cables through the car and how many lengths to have.
I found using a thick length of rope was useful to gain an understanding of how a
large cable could fit into the car's existing nooks & crannies. Get underneath your
car to look at your cable route options and take plenty of photos for planning later.

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Here's an example of the main positive and negative cables running between
the front and rear battery pack in my car. Once again, don't run any high
voltage cables through the passenger compartment of the vehicle.
You can also see the black recharging cable in the above photo alongside the two
battery cables. As you can see, I've run the main cables inside a flexible PVC sheath
to protect them from stones, water and mistakenly driving over sharp lawn
ornaments.
When you've measured out & purchased the required lengths of cable, it's time to
look at lugs to go on the end of the cables. Depending on your type of battery you'll
probably either be using a bolt-on spade lug or a wrap-around lug. Some batteries
have the option for both.

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Notice this battery has a threaded terminal and a post terminal on each polarity?
Choice is always a good thing.
Your cable supplier will probably stock the lugs required for your cable size, it may
be worthwhile having them crimp them for you.
Though if you're looking to save a bit of money you can cut & crimp them yourself
quite easily if you have the right tools. Some EV parts suppliers loan out their
cable cutter and crimper to customers - check with your local supplier. The welding
supplier I purchased the cable and lugs from was willing to crimp them for nothing!
The 2 most popular methods of crimping your lugs are:
Hexagonal Crimp
Dimple Crimp.

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A hexagonal crimp squeezes the lug onto the cable from 6 directions. This is by far
the most secure and lowest resistance method. A dimple crimp presses onto the lug
primarily in one place. It does the job but there's always a higher risk of increased
resistance (by not being in perfect contact with the cable's entire circumference)
and a higher risk of the lug popping off under stress.
Naturally, I recommend the hexagonal crimp, though many would argue the
difference isn't noticeable.
Before you crimp be sure to put some loose heat shrink over the cable & lug area.
When the length is crimped, slide the heat shrink over the lug and use a heat gun
or gentle flame to shrink it down.
Remember to use red shrink for positive terminal lugs and black for negative
terminal lugs. It's little things like this make your conversion look professional
when strangers are poking, prodding, and taking photos of your work.

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Chapter #12
Powering Up Your Electric Vehicle
Time to get your car running on pure electrons at long last and time to wire up all
those EV gadgets!
Connecting The Main Cabling

We'll start with a schematic diagram that I've simplified and made very basic for
non technical people to make sense of:

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It may look like an octopus at first but if you start from the top left and follow your
way through you'll see it's not very complicated. To keep things simple, I've omitted
the High Pedal Lockout relay, and the rear battery extraction fan as they're 12 volt
items that powered through the above high voltage wiring diagram.
The thin red lines are 12 volt circuits crucial to the high voltage circuits.
The medium sized red cables are low amperage loads off the high voltage
circuit such as the heater relay and the Key Switch Indicator relay.
The thick red lines are the high voltage, high amperage cables that
carry the power through the motor, controller and fuses.
The controller shown in this simple diagram is a Curtis 1231C. You should have
received a wiring diagram for your own controller model which you should use.
Every car is different, and every conversion is different so please use the above
diagram as a guide only.
Image courtesy of Jerry Halstead

- Page 125 -
Shown above is another example of a 144V circuit diagram. This one used a Zapi
brand controller with regenerative braking, where the car would recover some
electricity when you press the brake by turning the motor into a generator.
Regenerative braking is not a common option for DC voltage controllers and from
my experience people have found it not to be reliable (in DC voltages) with
controller failure a constant possibility.
Most AC voltage controllers have this function built in as standard due to the unique
characteristics of AC controllers. Unfortunately the cost of AC controllers for the
home-converter and hobbyist often outweighs the typical 5 to 10 percent
(maximum) range that's recovered during regenerative braking.
Currently I'm only aware of 2 DC controllers that offer regenerative braking: Kelly
and Navitas.
Each will have specific wiring requirements and will come with their own
instructions. Be sure to follow those instructions to the letter and double check your
connections before using regenerative braking to maximize the lifespan of your
controller.
Leave connecting the batteries until the absolute last moment. For now it's the low
voltage stuff only, and the safety devices such as fuses and circuit breakers.
If you're using a control box to house your smaller components, now is the time to
wire it up.

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In the above example from my own conversion, I've run the cables underneath the
box to keep it tidy. You can see the 2 Omron Solid State relays on the lower left,
powering the heater and the controller's on/off control switch (KSI relay).
These 2 relays are fed from the dormant side of the contactor (see the red wires
coming off from the left and going under the board?). On the top left is the main
contactor, controlled by the car's ignition key. On the top center is one of the car's
two 500 amp DC fuses, below it (bottom center) is the shunt, and on the right is
the circuit breaker with the kill switch cable running through to the dash board.
For making very short connections such as the connection between the shunt and
the fuse (center of box), I recommend using a solid piece of copper:

- Page 127 -
For short runs in cramped conditions these copper bars are ideal. If running these
underneath your control board I recommend insulating them with heat shrink in
case un-gloved fingers touch both a copper bar and a battery terminal at the same
time.
Remember, the voltage will be dangerously high and DC voltage burns are
more severe than AC voltage burns.
Just remember not to rush - and relax! As long as you take appropriate safety
precautions electric vehicles are just as safe to work on as gasoline vehicles.
To clarify this important part of the conversion, let's go through and check each
component one by one in a checklist:

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The Contactor
The contactor needs to be wired up through a High Pedal Lockout relay as in the
diagram in Chapter #8. It should not close the circuit (click on) if your foot is on
the gas, and when it does close, it should stay that way until the key is turned off.
Check with your controller's manual to see if they recommend installing a diode.
Some instructions suggest using a resistor across the high voltage terminals of the
contactor but if you're using the simpler one contactor method described in this
ebook, I do not recommend installing the resistor as it will leave your system
effectively powered up all the time.
The DC to DC converter
This should be wired up to the 12 volt battery with positive to positive and negative
to negative. The on signal wires should be connected together so that when the
ignition is on and the contactor closes, the high voltage part of the car will become
alive and the DC to DC converter will automatically switch on. The high voltage
positive line should have a fuse (a 10 Amp fuse is normally sufficient).
High Voltage Fuses

You should use at least two high voltage fuses. One before your contactor on the
positive (+) side of the battery pack and one before the negative (-) of your battery
pack. The more fuses the better, especially if your pack is split into two sections
(hood & trunk).
Circuit Breaker
The circuit breaker should connect in the positive (+) line of the high voltage circuit
and must be accessible to operate from the driver's position, but the high voltage
lines mustn't come into the passenger compartment. As I mentioned previously, a
pull switch running from the dash to the arm of the circuit breaker is a good idea.
Make sure the circuit breaker is adequate for your controller's rated amperage.

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The Shunt
The shunt should be on the positive (+) side of the high voltage circuit. The power
will flow through this and two wires will run from either side of the device to your
ammeter's input.
Ammeter and Voltmeter

Each of these will require a 12 volt + and - input to operate, as well as a high
voltage feed from the + and of the battery pack (fused) for the voltmeter, and a
high voltage feed from the shunt (also fused) for the ammeter. Check with the
installation instructions that come with your meters first though as some have
specific requirements.
KSI Relay
Curtis controllers use a KSI relay to tell the controller when it's time to power up
and operate. I had mine operated by a Solid State Relay whenever my foot pressed
on the accelerator which was signaled from the switch at the bottom of the pot box.
Check to see if your controller actually uses a KSI relay.
Inertia Switch
The inertia switch or crash switch should be attached to the frame of the car near
the front, but not actually on the front of the car (such as a fender). Your contactor
input should run through the inertia switch via the two wires poking out. Feed your
contactor's 12 volt signal in through one and out through the other, then take it to
the contactor.

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Vacuum Pump
If possible make sure it's installed on a rubber cushion to minimize the vibration. To
power the unit, feed it on a fused 12 volt supply from your ignition through the
vacuum switch so that it only operates when the key is on.
Vacuum Switch
There should be two or three terminals on the vacuum switch: Normally Open,
Common, and Normally Closed. You'll want to run your (fused) 12 volt positive
supply into to the Common, then out to the pump through the Normally Open, so
that when the level of vacuum lowers, the switch will close (liven) the circuit for a
short time until vacuum is restored, the open (kill) the circuit.
Excluding the charging system (covered in the next chapter) that's the major
components catered for. All that's left now is to power it up!
Final Check
Before connecting your battery cables, turn the ignition key and power up the 12
volt systems. Try to start the car. Your ignition should function as normal and your
contactor should click closed and stay closed.
Your heater relay and KSI relay (if installed) should power on when the heater
switch or accelerator is pressed. Check your turbo timer and extraction fans. If you
haven't done so already, check your voltmeter works by connecting it across a low
voltage battery. Check your inertia switch operates when clunked with the handle of
a screw driver the contactor should pop open. Check your vacuum switch
operates then switches off when the vacuum level has been reached.
If you're satisfied everything is working as it should be with no high voltage supply,
then you can begin connecting it up. Double check your wiring diagram supplied
with your controller before connecting your individual battery jumper cables. Make
sure the final positive and negative connections from your battery pack are going to
the right connectors on your controller.

- Page 131 -
If you're satisfied again with the high voltage layout and it reflects your controller's
wiring diagram then let's get connecting.
Raising The Car for Safety

First, raise the drive wheels off the ground. If the car is rear wheel drive, raise the
rear wheels off the ground, if the car is front wheel drive, raise the front wheels off
the ground. If your car is four wheel drive, then your car will probably explode
when you turn the key. No I'm not serious, that was little comic relief to de-stress
this exciting and nerve-wrecking part of the conversion!
Insulating Your Tools

With your drive wheels off the ground, now is the time to tape up all your tools with
electrical tape. This will help prevent a short circuit damage to your batteries if you
drop a wrench onto the battery terminals. It has happened before so eliminate that
risk.
Connecting The High Voltage Cables

Begin connecting the cables to your battery terminals one by one. You should have
some high voltage gloves (available from safety shops) to wear once working with
voltages over 48 volts. DC voltage can deliver some quite serious burns and there's
always the possibility of a high current flow through your hand or arm if it gets in
the way of your battery pack. You'll probably find yourself using them in the future
so they're not a bad investment.
Remember that the positive (+) of one battery connects to the negative (-) of the
battery next to it. This connecting in "Series" increases the voltage one by one as
mentioned in chapter 3. Don't try connect the positive (+) and negative (-) of the
same battery together, that will result in a large spark, a possible battery explosion
and a voided warranty.
Eventually you'll have your pack voltage reaching your controller, only broken by
the circuit breaker and the main contactor. As long as all your fuses are in place and
your wiring is correct (as per the instructions for your controller), connect the
circuit breaker first. If you have the positive (+) high voltage side reaching the

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contactor and you've double checked your wiring, it's now or never.
Time to turn the key.
Providing your cabling is correctly configured for your particular controller and
motor, your motor should be able to spin by pressing the accelerator. Make sure the
car is out of gear first and don't over-spin your motor or it will disintegrate.
If you're certain your car is stable and your drive wheels are off the ground you can
put the car in gear and try spinning the wheels in all gears including reverse.
This will prove that your gearbox is working and that your motor is spinning in the
right direction for your gearbox.
By this stage you're either doing 2 things: you're either scratching your head
figuring out why it's not working, or your grinning from ear to ear and jumping
around the garage in elation!
If your car's not running it's most likely going to be one of 3 things:
your battery wiring (including fuses & the circuit breaker),
your controller wiring, or
your contactor/KSI relay wiring.
If you're having problems, turn off your key, then open (kill) the circuit by pulling
the circuit breaker and go through your wiring point by point. If your car's running
then treat yourself to a well deserved run up the road and back! Drive it easily at
first. Get a feel for which gear suits which speed.
Like many EVers you may find that you only need 2nd gear from a standstill to
approximately 40 mph. Remember, don't over-spin your motor! Make sure it's
always in gear when your foot is on the accelerator for safety. Different motors have
different maximum RPM ratings. Advanced DC motors typically "red line" at around
6000 RPM.
Checking For Problems

Check for knocks and clunks while driving. Run a small distance at first then check
for motor temperature. It should only be warm after a mile or so. Check your
batteries too - make sure they're not gassing heavily. As every car is different I can
only suggest you take your time and drive & listen carefully! If you find any clunks
or faults, now is the time to fix them. Congratulations on achieving your first "EV
grin" - you're certain to have plenty more in store! Be sure to enjoy this moment!
You've worked hard to get to it!

- Page 133 -
Chapter #13
Installing Your Charging System
The fourth most vital part to any electric car is its charging system and you have 2
main options to choose from:
a single mains-powered pack charger, or
individual 12 volt chargers for each battery.
I've tried both methods and I'll explain the pros & cons so you can decide which
suits your needs.
Mains Powered Pack Charger

By far the simplest and most flexible method, this is a single charging system which
is usually installed into the trunk of the car. It has a positive (+) and negative (-)
output which simply connects across the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals of
your main pack, charging all batteries in the loop.

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One popular pack charger is the Zivan NG3 (pictured above) which can take both
110 volts or 230 volts AC (depending on your model) and delivers your desired
pack voltage in DC volts. They're also protected against overloading, overheating
and short circuits.
These chargers are intelligent and reliable and if configured correctly for your
individual pack (done by the retailer), it should push the life of quality new batteries
well beyond 3 years - if the batteries are looked after of course.
These chargers can be installed in the trunk in just a few minutes and depending on
your country/state laws you can simply put a standard household plug on the side
of the car to charge often where your fuel filler used to be! That gives you the
advantage of opportunity charging at malls, friend's houses etc.
The downside is simple the cost. These chargers fluctuate in price but expect to
pay between $1200 US and $1500 US for one brand new. Of course there are many
other charger models out there too such as Elcon and Russco, and often these will
pop up on eBay and in EV forums. Bargain hunting for these popular chargers is
something to consider if you're patient.
Trunk mounting or external mounting?

The most convenient is trunk mounting of course, though in some countries this
requires the car to be electrically certified as the car has effectively become an
appliance. This is an extra cost and means you can only use a particular type of
outdoor plug, limiting your opportunity charging options. Check with EV owners in
your area to see the rules on trunk mounting your charger. Another downside to
trunk mounting is the weight. A typical charger can weigh around 22 pounds (10
kg) and extra weight is not an EV's friend!
Externally mounting your charger in your garage for example will simplify the
overall connection, allowing you to use a choice of plugs to join the charger to the
car's socket, and taking the recharging leads straight from your gas cap (for
example) to your pack's positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. It also means the
weight of a charger is excluded from your EV, and that the car isn't required to
undergo electrical certification. The downside to this method is that it limits your
charging options. You can only charge where your charger is, which means if you
want to go to a friend's house you have to take your charger with you.

- Page 135 -
When installing any charging system, especially an AC "mains" system, be sure to

connect the correct terminals onto the plug/socket setup in place of your gas filler.
This is vital. If you get the wiring around the wrong way and your charger is in
contact with the car's body then your car could become "alive" and touching the car
body could allow mains power to travel through your body. If you have any doubts,
check out the wiring colour code for your country and seek professional advice
before attempting to wire in the AC part of your charger. Do it once and do it right.
Also ensure your contactor opens when your gas cap opens. For this I recommend
installing a safety switch that opens the contactor when you pop your gas cap.
Simply run your contactor's 12 volt + and - lines through a waterproof trip switch
on the door of your gas cap.
If you're looking to cut costs again but want to keep a mains pack charger, you
could consider looking into a "Bad boy" charger. This isn't recommended for
novices, as it basically charges your car by turning 120 volts AC into DC through
rectifiers and letting it loose across your battery pack.
This method can work and is cheap, but it's often crude and if left unattended can
cook the occasional battery pack. Bad boy chargers are ideally suited to packs of 96
volts to 136 volts and can be dangerous for the electrically unsavvy.
For information on building your own Bad Boy charger, check out the following link:
http://www.electric-cars-are-for-girls.com/battery-charger-schematic.html

- Page 136 -
Using the One-Charger-Per-Battery Method

While a little more complicated than simply installing a single charger in, the one
charger per battery method is much cheaper. This method involves installing a
single 12 volt car battery charger to each battery's positive (+) and negative (-)
terminals. If you have a 96 volt system, you'll need 8 individual chargers, if you
have a 144v system you'll need 12 of them!
This was my EV's original charging system. As you can see I used 12 chargers, plus
a 13th charger to charge the accessories battery. This method saved me
approximately $800 US, though like any cost cutting method, it can have its
drawbacks: mainly "Voltage Drop" and the slow speed of charging.
If you're interested in this method you need to take those 2 main things into
consideration. You'll need at the very least 10 amps output from each 12 volt
charger or you'll find yourself charging for 20 hours for 10 miles of range. If you
plan on using high amperage chargers, keep in mind just how much current you'll
be drawing from the outlet in your garage.
For example, using twelve 15 amp (12 volt) chargers would draw 180 amps at 12
volts. That equates to 2160 watts (voltage x current = wattage). This isn't a big
issue for your average 240 volt outlet (drawing 9 amps), however on a standard
110 volt outlet that's almost 20 amps (wattage voltage = amperage).

- Page 137 -
That sort of current on a standard household point could overheat the wall plug.
You'll require either smaller amperage chargers or a higher voltage/amperage
outlet.
Voltage drop is something that affects DC voltages (more so than AC voltages) and
it's relative to the length of the conductor. In a basic example, if your charger sends
12 volts down a long cable with perhaps 4 meters of cable between the charger and
the battery, only 11 volts might reach the battery terminals, and with 12 volt
chargers, every little volt helps!
This means that if your battery chargers are too far away from your batteries,
they'll never actually reach a completely full charge which will shorten their life.
To minimize voltage drop, you simply need to keep the distance between the
charger and the battery very close ideally with each charger mounted inside the
car next to the battery it's charging. In most cases you can drive your EV with a
charger connected to each battery permanently with no problems as the chargers
can only see a 12 volt battery in front of them.
Just make sure your contactor is open and the main circuit is dead before you turn
on all the chargers. For this I recommend installing a safety switch that opens the
contactor when you pop open your gas cap. Simply run your contactor's 12 volt +
and - lines through a waterproof trip switch on the door of your gas cap.
While I don't recommend it, if you do decide to mount the chargers outside the car,
you must keep the cable as short as possible to ensure each 12 volt battery is
actually reaching its maximum charged level (13.8 volts). You'll also need a multipin connector to take all the positive (+) and negative (-) pins from each charger to
each battery.
On a 144 volt system for example you'll need a plug & socket with 24 pins, each
capable of the sustaining the amperage your chargers can deliver. I used (and can
recommend using) Lap Kabel multi-pin plugs & sockets as they're
weatherproof, dead easy to terminate and capable of taking respectable amperages.

- Page 138 -
2 things to keep in mind with the multi-charger method:

1. Firstly, in case of any short between terminals install a fuse on each negative
and each positive lead running to each battery terminal. On a 144 volt system
it means installing 24 fuses, but it's well worth it.
2. Secondly, low quality car chargers that have earth pins on their plugs have
the risk of back feeding the car's high voltage circuit and causing a short
circuit. I observed this happening on two chargers I was using, where 144v
DC back-fed from one battery's negative (-) charging lead, through the
charger and then onto the "earth" connection of it's 230v input. This leakage
traveled along the earth line that all the chargers were connected to and then
shot back up the earth of another charger in the group, back through my
multi-pin plug on another negative (-) line and towards the negative of
another battery in the pack.
This bizarre situation happened in the blink of an eye and caused a short
circuit when I tried to plug my car in. It destroyed two pins of my car's multipin plug and took a very long (frustrating) time to diagnose. From this I've
learnt not to use car chargers with earth connections unless they're very
reliable and there's no chance of leakage through the earth pins.
If you find yourself in a situation where you're uncertain, don't rush. Recheck your
wiring and if you're still in doubt ask for instructions from another EV owner or an
electrician. The last thing you want is component failure or worse, an electric shock.

- Page 139 -
Chapter #14
Preparing Your Electric Car
For The Road
Preparing Your EV For Inspection
Congratulations on getting your EV running! Depending on your country or
state you will most likely need to take your EV for an inspection of some sort. In
New Zealand & Australia the rules are fairly strict to ensure that home-built electric
cars aren't likely to catch fire just sitting in traffic like their gasoline powered
counterparts have been known to do!
The inspections vary in their thoroughness. Some take half a day and cost over
$500, and others are simply ticking a box at your local Ministry of Transport or DMV
and driving away! If possible, find a copy of your local electric vehicle inspection
checklist before you get to the actual inspection.
To give you an idea what the rulebooks look like I recommend using the New
Zealand rules available in 3 parts here:
http://www.evsecrets.com/doc/nz_ev_requirements_1.pdf

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Even if you're not in New Zealand, the rules are detailed, comprehensive and quite
strict, covering everything from power steering to timed battery venting. If you
follow these strict rules to the letter you'll generally fly through any inspection (as I
found), though check with your transport agency first. In the unusual instance that
your country or state has no specific rules on conversions, the New Zealand rules
are a very safe guide.
To help with passing your car's inspection, first tidy your car! No one wants to
inspect a dirty or messy car. Give it a vacuum and clean your windows. Next,
organize and secure any loose wiring in both the passenger compartment and the
engine bay. Remember, if it looks tidy, the inspector will want to assume it's also
built professionally.
If you're confident it's clean, tidy & organized then pretend you're a ruthless
inspector (aren't they all?), grab a copy of the inspection rulebook and take half an
hour to pour over every item on your car as if you'd never seen it before. If
possible, get a friend or neighbor to do this for you and ask him/her to be critical.
If your car does fail the inspection don't stress out. Correct the problem, go back
and finish the inspection.
How To Get Your EV Insured

After all the effort you've been through I recommend insuring your new baby.
In many countries car insurance is compulsory but if insurance is optional in your
part of the world I'd recommend it anyway.
Unfortunately our friends in the insurance trade will see that your electric car is a
high risk or heavily modified vehicle which means higher premiums than its
gasoline powered equivalent. Time to start calling around for quotes. Start with
your normal insurer first. Also, you may be entitled to a discount if you use the
same company that insures your home.
You may need to get the car appraised by an appraiser who specializes in things like
hot rods or restorations. Often, the insurance company will accept your receipts for
the cost of conversion to establish a value.

- Page 141 -
There are also a handful of professional conversion web sites that offer used
conversions for sale which can help establish a comparable value for the car for
insurance purposes.
If you're still not having any luck finding a company to insure your car you could try
using the insurance companies that boy racers use. You know the ones, the guys
& girls that lower their hatchbacks and sedans, put big wheels on them and then
use a drainpipe for an exhaust system. The exact same ones that wake me up at
midnight on a Tuesday with wheel spins and screaming engines somehow thinking
I'll enjoy it just as much as they do. Interestingly they have the exact same
problems trying to find insurance as EV converters, so don't be scared to ask them
when you're out & about.
Alternatively you could try logging into some modified car club websites in your
country or state and asking online.
What happens if I get stuck and need help?

There's no need to panic! If you come across something that's not answered in the
ebook then you can contact me by opening a support ticket.
It's easy:
1: Simply click here: http://www.evsecrets.com/support/
2: Create a support ticket at that page.
3: Then relax - I'll get back to you ASAP!
Thank you for reading this ebook.
Good luck with your conversion

- Page 142 -
Disclaimer: As you'd expect, with any book there's always a little bit of small print!
It's the usual: I wish you the best of luck with your conversion but this book is only
intended as a guide and not as a definitive rulebook. Ask a professional if in doubt
and always follow instructions sent by your component manufacturer. Have fun!
All equations in this ebook use the comma ( , ) as a separator for units of one
thousand. I mention this because some parts of the word use a full stop instead.
For example, with a comma one thousand looks like 1,000 and one million looks like
1,000,000.
Copyright stuff: All photos and diagrams in this ebook were used with permission
of their creators and owners to which I'm very grateful. I'd like to thank the
community at www.diyelectriccar.com for their input and photos. I'd like to also
thank the many people that took part in the survey for this ebook which helped me
tailor this publication specifically towards EV newbies, to help answer the questions
first time converters have and guide them through a typical first-time conversion.

- Page 143 -

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Electric Conversion Made Easy Insider Secrets Revealed - by Gavin Shoebridge

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