Garment Manufacturing

Garment
Manufacturing
Process
By
Sauumye Chauhan
MFM/14/31
Sample Order
Buyer
H.E By Mango
Order No: 12345

Basic Mens Casual Shirt
Style Code: MS342

Fabric
Cotton-Polyester
Style Name: Oxford
Trims
Buttons
Care & Wash Label
Interlining
Brand Label
Swing Tag
Sizes
S, M, L, XL
Colors
Black & White
Quantity
Blac
k
S
M
L
X
L
250
300
300
150
Whit
e
250
300
300
150
Total
500
600
600
300
Total Quantity
2000 pieces
Packaging Details
Each Garment Individually Packed In Transparent Plastic Wrap
150 garments in each box
Delivery Details
Order to be delivered in 3 lots
Lot 1: Sizes S,M & L in both the
Lot 2: Size XL in both the colors
Production Process
colors
Understanding The Order
Fabric Consumption
Fabric & Trims
procurement
Inspection
Marker Making
Spreading
Layering
Cutting
Bundling According To
Size
Feeding In Assembly Line
Finishing
Final Inspection
Packaging
Dispatch
Understanding the Order and Fabric Consumption

When an analysis of the order is done, we understand that the fabric
required is a blend of Cotton and Polyester in the ratio 60:40. The
approximate consumption per shirt would be 1.25m. Thus, the fabric
consumption is (1.25m *2000) + Extra fabric consumption of at least
20 shirts for any fabric defects or any errors or mishandling during the
production process.
Total Fabric Consumption = (1.25*2000) + (1.25*20) =
2500+25= 2525m
Further the trims are ordered which includes buttons, threads and
interlining, busk for the collar, wash & care labels, brand label, size
label and swing tags.
Fabric & Trims Procurement

Purchasing the right fabric can be sometimes a tough challenge faced
by apparel manufacturers. Out of the total cost of manufacturing a
garment piece, the cost of fabric can contribute between 50 and 65 per
cent. Furthermore, even a minor oversight in selecting the right fabric
and right manufacturer may spoil the entire apparel program.
The various vendors are listed and the best suited vendor is selected.
According to the calculations done above, the order for raw materials
i.e. fabrics and trims is placed.
Inspection
Since fabric is the main contributor to the development of the final
garment, it is very important to control its quality. This is indicated by
the number of faults and variations present in it. Identification of these
faults at the initial stage helps to reduce the production time and
prevents wastage. Thus, once the fabric is in-housed, it is immediately
sent to the inspection area. A fully equipped In-House Laboratory is
usually present. Otherwise the inspection is done by third party
companies. It has a number of instruments that are used to measure
the quality of the fabric and make sure it is fit for manufacturing
garments. This helps to eliminate the possibility of post shipment

rejection. The sampling and merchandising teams cut out about 25cms
of each fabric, which is then given in the lab to check for GSM, thread
count and construction. Some of the defects found in woven fabrics are
slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, soiled yarn,
incorrect yarn. Common defects found in knitted fabrics are mixed
yarn, runner, yarn variation, needle line, slubs, hole. Major dyeing or
printing defects are dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear or
shading.
Marker Making
Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces
for different sizes for a particular style of garments. It is planned in
such a way that fabric wastage would be least. By making a marker it
is possible to achieve more benefit by producing a garment with
reduced wastage. Normally the width of a marker is kept according to
the width of the fabric and the length of a marker normally depends on
the number and sizes of pattern placed on a marker. The length also
depends on-
Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay

Length of cutting table
Production planning etc.
For marker making, white paper or newsprint paper is used. At first all
large patterns are placed on the marker. After that small sized patterns
are placed in between the gaps of large patterns. In this way higher
marker efficiency can be achieved. To produce a marker with better
efficiency, a very efficient marker maker is required.
Spreading & Cutting

Once the fabric has been received and tested, it is sent for cutting. The
fabric is laid out in layers; usually 200 layers are spread out (up to 8
cms). A sheet container a marker is placed on it and pinned and
notches are added. Next, the fabric is cut according to the pattern
using a Straight knife. A Band knife is used for small components that
are difficult to cut and require precision. Once cut, the Fabric layers are
numbered using stickers and packed in bundles to be sent for stitching.
The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric

type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and
the firms quality standards. Spreading requires a flat, smooth
surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also
must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same
surface, but automated cutting often requires spreading and cutting
to be done in adjacent but separate locations.
Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that
correspond to fabric width. Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider
table. A spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches wider than the
fabric. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or
both sides of a tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track
helps guide and control the spreader as it moves up and down the
length of the table. With some types of equipment, the table tracks
are geared to synchronize the movement of the spreading machine
with fabric unrolling, in order to regulate tension.
Bundling
Bundles system of apparel production consists of garment parts
needed to complete a specific operation or garment component. For
example, an operation bundle for a shirt setting might include shirt
fronts and pockets that are to be attached with garments. Bundle sizes
may range from two to a hundred parts. Bundles of garments are
assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with
corresponding parts and bundle tickets.
Production
Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room and given to
the garments operator scheduled to complete the garments production
operation. One garment operator is expected to perform the same
operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process
coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next
operation of garments production. A progressive bundle system of
garments production may require a high volume of work in process
cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of
backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all

operators in garments.
Finishing
A finishing department has following sub-processes.
o Washing of garment (Some factories may have separate washing
department)
o Buttoning and button holing
o Thread trimming
o Checking of washed / unwashed garments
o Stain removing
o Ironing or Pressing
o Mending / repair work
o Tagging
o Folding
Final Inspection
Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and
missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread
tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect
the garment quality adversely. During processing the quality control
section needs to check each prepared article against these defects.
For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in
terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color
fastness, designs and the final finished garments. Quality control in
terms of garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service,
delivery, pricing, etc are essential for any garment manufacturer,
trader or exporter. Certain quality related problems, often seen in
garment manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects
should never be over looked.
Packaging & Dispatch

After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color
wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is
marked with important information in printed form which is seen from

outside the carton easily. The cartons of the manufactured garments
are delivered or placed in the dispatch department or finished product
warehouse, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.

Garment Manufacturing

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Garment

Order No: 12345

Style Code: MS342

Understanding The Order

Understanding the Order and Fabric Consumption

Fabric & Trims Procurement

garments. This helps to eliminate the possibility of post shipment

Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay

Spreading & Cutting

The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric

backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all

Packaging & Dispatch

marked with important information in printed form which is seen from

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