The document discusses the properties and applications of Emulium 22, an O/W non ionic emulsifier derived from Behenic acid. It has a high melting point and provides excellent stability. It can be used across a wide pH range and is compatible with many oils and active ingredients. Formulations with Emulium 22 have a fine droplet size and thixotropic behavior, allowing for optimal dispersion of pigments and ingredients. On skin, it provides a rich appearance with a light and non-greasy feel.
The document discusses the properties and applications of Emulium 22, an O/W non ionic emulsifier derived from Behenic acid. It has a high melting point and provides excellent stability. It can be used across a wide pH range and is compatible with many oils and active ingredients. Formulations with Emulium 22 have a fine droplet size and thixotropic behavior, allowing for optimal dispersion of pigments and ingredients. On skin, it provides a rich appearance with a light and non-greasy feel.
The document discusses the properties and applications of Emulium 22, an O/W non ionic emulsifier derived from Behenic acid. It has a high melting point and provides excellent stability. It can be used across a wide pH range and is compatible with many oils and active ingredients. Formulations with Emulium 22 have a fine droplet size and thixotropic behavior, allowing for optimal dispersion of pigments and ingredients. On skin, it provides a rich appearance with a light and non-greasy feel.
The document discusses the properties and applications of Emulium 22, an O/W non ionic emulsifier derived from Behenic acid. It has a high melting point and provides excellent stability. It can be used across a wide pH range and is compatible with many oils and active ingredients. Formulations with Emulium 22 have a fine droplet size and thixotropic behavior, allowing for optimal dispersion of pigments and ingredients. On skin, it provides a rich appearance with a light and non-greasy feel.
EMULIUM 22 Elegant Paradox O/W non ionic emulsifier (patent) Derived from Behenic acid 9 INCI: Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters
Technical advantages Vanishing and refined textures
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Behenic Chain: 22 Carbons
Excellent Tolerance profile Sensitive skin
High melting point
Excellent stability
Substantivity Availability of active ingredients
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Technical advantages Wide compatibility Flexible viscosity Fineness of emulsions and thixotropy Optimal dispersion
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Wide compatibility Oils (up to 40%) 9 Silicones, Softcutol line 9 Vegetable oils and fatty acid esters 9 Mineral oil and substitutes
Active ingredients (Zn, DHA, AHA, )
Organic and inorganic sunscreens pH: 3 8
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Flexible viscosity
Emulium 22
Lotion
Supple cream
Thick cream
2-3 %
3-5%
46%
9 Gelling agents recommended (stabilization of final pH)
9 Consistency agents recommended in thick creams
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Formulation Direct emulsification Hot process Oil phase into water phase at T > 75C
High shear during emulsification (rotor-stator
recommended)
Moderate agitation during cooling down
Practical HLB: 10.5
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Fineness & Thixotropy
Fine droplet size: 1 m Thixotropic behavior Thixotropy (Pa.s-1)
Base PEG-100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate PEG-100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate + thixotropic agent
Emulium 22
5 375 14 171 82 946
9 White and bright formulations
9 Improved spreadability Emulium 22 January 2007
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Optimal dispersion Emulsifier Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 (3% with gelling agent) Cetyl phosphate Emulium 22 (3% with gelling agent) Emulium 22 (6%, no gelling agent)
SPF (in vivo)
6.9
9.7
11.3
9 Natural SPF Booster and enhanced dispersion of pigments
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Sensorial Identity Comparison with Emulium Delta
Emulsion A
Emulsion B
Emulsifier at 6%
Emulium 22
Emulium Delta
Oil phase
20 %
20 %
Aqueous phase
74 %
74 %
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Sensorial identity Emulium 22 vs Emulium Delta
brightness* 9
tacky afterfeel
consistency*
7 6 5
film residue*
picking*
4 3 2 1 0
absorbency*
texture*
film thickness*
creaminess*
melting*
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spreadability
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Elegant paradox Sensorial profile 9Brightness, creamy and rich appearance 9Evanescent feel (light and thin) 9Easy spreading 9 Mat finish 9 Excellent pick up 9 Rapid absorbency 9 Non greasy, non tacky after-feel
PARADOX BETWEEN APPEARANCE AND FEEL
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Applications Skin Care 9 Day cream, elegant skin care 9 Greasy and sensitive skin
Sun Care 9 Ideal to boost SPF, easy spread
Make-up 9 Complexion enhancer, foundation
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Conclusion Emulium 22 9 Enhanced affinity towards skin thanks to the substantivity of the behenic chain (C22) 9 Improved heat stability thanks to the ability of C22 to structure the emulsion 9 Optimal dispersion thanks to extreme fineness of emulsion and thixotropic behaviour 9 The unexpected combination of rich appearance and light texture
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Rich
Texture Mapping Emulium Kappa
Emollients Emulium 22
Emulfree
Light
TOUCH
Apifil
Fluid Emulium 22 January 2007
Hydrolactol 70
TEXTURE
Emulium Delta
Emulfree
Creamy page 15
And if a cosmetic was a
textile?
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And if a cosmetic was a textile?
CASHMERE Ultimate luxury Softness Quality Sensuality Class Banana Republic
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And if a cosmetic was a textile?
A CASHMERE cosmetic Top quality ingredients Luxurious appearance Powder soft Comfortable Creamy Natural
