Riga

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Riga
August - September 2015
Andrejsala
Discover the citys best

waterfront cafs
Seaside Retreats
inyourpocket.com
N116- FREE COPY
Explore Jrmala and

Liepja this summer
Contents
Health & Lifestyle
76
Spas, doctors and other useful information
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Hotels
78
Beds for backpackers and business executives
Foreword
Gossip and rants from the editor
Arrival & Getting Around
9
14
Culture & Events 18

Concerts, festivals and events
24
Hipster hangouts and coffee houses
Restaurants
26
From pork knuckle and sauerkraut to sushi
Nightlife
46
Bars, pubs and clubs
Sightseeing
58
Museums, churches and the like
Shopping
68
Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres
Sports & Leisure

Bowling alleys, swimming pools and much more
Liepja
86
A seaside city with lots of character
Getting to grips with Riga
Cafs
84
Discover Rigas summer playground
How to get to your hotel
Riga Basics
Jrmala
74
List of small features

Andrejsalas waterfront restaurants
Beaches in and around Riga
Latvian cuisine
A guide for beer snobs
Canal & River boats
Old Riga walking tour
Edward Steichen
Riga for kids
Explore Latvia
Kalnciems Fair
What to buy in Latvia
Hockey: Dynamo Riga
Harvest festival
Maps & Index

Liepja map
Old Riga map
Riga city centre map
Venue index / Old Riga street register
Latvia map
16
17
36
54
60
63
64
65
67
68
72
74
77
93
95
96
98
99
Summer on Lvu
Square
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Foreword
Theres no point in sugar-coating it. Weather-wise, this
summer has been a complete disappointment. Some
Latvians may appreciate the fact that they havent had to
sweat in the past months, but we at Riga In Your Pocket
were hoping for at least a taste of that heat that oppressed
much of Europe in July. While people in Poland melted in
the streets, locals here searched their cupboards for sweaters and rain gear. Unfortunately, it doesnt look like August
or September will be much better in terms of sunshine, so
youll have to console yourself with plenty of indoor events.
Then again, you could just throw caution to the wind and
attend one of the numerous festivals that Riga will host in
the coming weeks such as Kubana 2015 on an island in the
middle of the River Daugava or the annual Riga Festival in
mid-August, which will be chock full of free entertainment.
If, however, by some miracle the sun does come out of hiding, try one of Andrejsalas trendy eateries by the water or
take a trip to the beach at Liepja or Jrmala.
Publisher
E S S E N TI A L
SIA Latvijas cevei
C I TY G U I D E S
Laipu 8 - 9a, LV-1050 Riga, Latvia
ISSN 1407-2335
Company Office & Accounts
Tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, riga@inyourpocket.lv,
www.inyourpocket.com
Riga In Your Pocket is printed by SIA DuGa six times per year
Editorial
Editor Mrti Zaprauskis
Layout & Design Mrti Zaprauskis
Photography Mrti Zaprauskis, unless otherwise noted.
Events and culture photos courtesy of various media groups
and concert organisers.
Cover Mrti Zaprauskis
COVER STORY
Sales & Circulation

irts Upenieks, tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, girts@inyourpocket.lv
This issues cover photo reflects

Rigas main claim to fame which
is, not surprisingly, its incredible
collection of art nouveau architecture. The building depicted
here is located on the corner of
Elizabetes and Antonijas was
designed by renowned architect
Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the
famous Russian filmmaker Sergei
Eisenstein of Battleship Potemkin fame. The younger Eisenstein was born just around the corner on Alberta iela.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright SIA Latvijas cevei. Maps copyright
SIA Karu izdevniecba Ja sta. All rights reserved. No part of
this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission
from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In
Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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8 Riga In Your Pocket
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Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving in Riga is fairly simple these days. The bus and train
stations are located right on the edge of Old Riga and the
airport is only a short cab or bus ride away. Money can be
changed wherever you land, but rates at banks and exchange booths will no doubt be better in Old Riga and the
city centre.
BY BUS
The first thing youll notice upon arrival at the bus terminal
or autoosta (open 05:00 - 24:00) are the impressive hangars of the Central Market to your right. Inside, LuxExpress
and Ecolines offices are located to your left as well as an
ATM, baggage room (0.60 for the first hour, 0.30 each
additional hour) and toilets for 0.30 (ask for paper). To
your right is the waiting room. A bar/cafeteria and a babychanging station are available upstairs. At the far end of
the hall is a bus information centre (open 08:00 - 21:00),
currency exchange and pharmacy. Outside youll find a
ticket machine where you can buy public transport tickets. Getting to town: trams N7 or 9 stop in front of the
bus station; ride it one stop into the centre (buy a 2 ticket
from the driver or a much cheaper 1.15 ticket at the Narvesen newsstand outside). To get there on foot, turn left,
walk through the underpass and follow the signs VecrgaVau iela into Old Riga. The cabs outside are notoriously
dodgy, so either order a taxi by phone (see p.13) or use
public transport. QJ-3, Prgas 1, www.autoosta.lv.
BY CAR
Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations
and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land
borders with Estonia and Lithuania. Just drive across the
border. The Russian and Belarusian borders still require
time and patience. Happy trails! Q
BY FERRY
The ferry terminal and yacht harbour lie less than 1km north
of Old Riga. A bank machine and caf (09:00 - 18:30) are
available as well as a Tallink ticket office and a souvenir/alcohol shop. Getting to town: go right across the parking
lot in the direction of the ugly grey skyscraper. Old Riga is
just beyond it. Taxis are also available. QB-2, Eksporta 3a.
Your chariot awaits on Rtslaukums
M.Zaprauskis
TOURIST INFORMATION
LIVE RIGA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES
The Live Riga information centre offers a wide range
of information in a variety of languages. The friendly
staff can assist with hotel bookings, tours and other
useful services. QI-2, Rtslaukums 6, tel. (+371) 67
03 79 00, info@rigatic.lv, www.liveriga.com. Open
09:00 - 19:00. Also at H-2, Kau 16, tel. (+371) 67
22 74 44; J-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station), (+371) 67 22
05 55. A
BY PLANE
The airport (lidosta) is some 10km southwest of the Riga
city centre. Once youve got your bags and youve cleared
customs you can rent a car, change money, have a drink
at the Costa Coffee or visit the airport welcome centre in
the arrivals hall for information. An ATM and a post office
(open 08:30 - 13:00; 14:00 - 17:00; closed Sat, Sun) are also
available. If youve departed from a non-Schengen country such as Ireland, the UK, the US or Uzbekistan, you will
arrive in a different terminal at the north end of the airport
building. Car rental and currency exchange are available
here, but you might want to leave the terminal, make a
right and then enter the Schengen arrival hall as it offers
more services. Getting to town: A queue of eager taxis
will be waiting for you outside the arrivals hall. A typical
ride to Old Riga or the city centre should cost no more
than 15. The Airport Express shuttle stops at 10 different locations throughout the city, including Old Riga, the
bus station, the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and the Albert
Hotel, for 5 every 30 minutes between 04:25 - 00:35. Bus
N22 costs 1.15 (2 if you buy a ticket from the driver) and
departs for the city centre roughly every 10 - 20 minutes.
Express mini-van N222 costs the same, but doesnt stop
as often and will take you as far as the central station. Exit
the airport arrivals hall and walk across the parking lot to
find the bus stop and ticket machine. QAirport, www.
riga-airport.com.
BY TRAIN
The train station (centrl stacija) has a spacious central
hall and many shopping and eating options. International
trains arrive at platform 2. Follow signs down to the Central Hall (Centrl zle), under which are renovated pay
toilets (0.30 - ask for paper from the surly cashier) and a
baggage room (0.71 - 2.13/day), open 04:30 - 24:00. Exchange money at the currency exchanges (valtas maias)
in tunnels A and B, at the Citadele bank to the right of the
Central Hall when coming from the platforms, or at the
Swedbank to the left. There are several bank machines in
the terminal. The train information office is open 08:00 20:00. Getting to town: you are right beside Old Riga.
Turn left when leaving the station and head toward the
spire of St. Peters Church, then walk through the underpass and follow the signs 13. janvra iela and turn right
onto Aspazijas bulvris. QD-4, Stacijas laukums.

Looking for cheap flights in Europe? Need to know how
much a tram or trolleybus costs? Want to know what time
a bus leaves for Tallinn or where to catch an overnight train
to St. Petersburg? Read on.
AIRPORT
RIGA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (LIDOSTA)
Riga International Airport, known throughout the world as
RIX, lies some 10km southwest of the city. The Airport Express shuttle stops at 10 different hotels (including Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija, Albert Hotel and Monika Centrum
Hotel) in the city centre and the left bank of the river (Islande Hotel and Maritim) every 30 minutes between 04:25
- 00:35. The trip costs 5. Bus N22 leaving from Grcinieku
iela will take you there for 1.15 (2 if you buy a ticket from
the driver). For departure times visit www.rigassatiksme.lv.
The airport has undergone major improvements over the
years including a new terminal for low cost airlines. A TGIFridays is available at the far right of the airport and a LIDO
Latvian restaurant is open on the top floor of the main terminal for those who want a last sip of a local beer or who
just cant stand airplane food. A sushi restaurant, a pizzeria
and some local cafs are available on the other side of the
security checkpoint as well as a variety of duty free and
paid shops, including Victorias Secret and Furla. For more
information visit its comprehensive website.Qtel. (+371)
1817 (toll call)/(+371) 29 31 18 17 (toll call from abroad),
www.riga-airport.com.
AIRLINE OFFICES
AIRBALTIC
The Latvian national airline flies to dozens of destinations
throughout Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia.QAirport, tel. (+371) 90 00 11 00 (toll call)/(+371) 67 00 60
06 (from abroad), www.airbaltic.lv. Open 05:00 - 23:00.
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
Direct flights to Brussels.Qtel. (+371) 67 89 88 25, www.
brusselsairlines.com.
FINNAIR
Direct flights to Helsinki.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 20 70 10,
www.finnair.com.
LOT (POLISH AIRLINES)
Direct flights to Warsaw.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 20 71 13,
www.lot.com.
LUFTHANSA
Direct flights to Frankfurt.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 50 77
11, www.lufthansa.com.
NORWEGIAN
Norways low cost airline offers cheap direct flights to Oslo
and Trondheim as well as Stockholm and Copenhagen.
Qwww.norwegian.no.
RYANAIR
Europes leading budget airline now offers cheap direct
flights between Riga and Bremen, Dublin, Dusseldorf
(Weese), East Midlands (UK), Frankfurt (Hahn), Glasgow
(Prestwick), Leeds (Bradford), London (Stansted), Manchester, Milan (Bergamo) and Oslo (Rygge).Qwww.ryanair.com.
*chargeable call
(+371) 29 311 817 calls from foreign countries,
AIRPORT INQUIRIES SERVICE


SAS SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES
Direct flights to and from Stockholm (Arlanda).Qtel.
(+371) 67 20 55 77, www.flysas.com.
SWISS
Direct flights to Zrich.Qtel. (+371) 66 16 36 81, www.
swiss.com.
TURKISH AIRLINES
Direct flights to Istanbul and Antalya.QAirport, tel.(+371)
67 21 00 94, www.turkishairlines.com.
UZBEKISTAN AIRWAYS
Direct flights to New York (JFK) and Tashkent.QB-3, Elizabetes 11, tel. (+371) 67 32 45 63, www.uzairways.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
WIZZ AIR
Flights to and from Barcelona, Bergen, Dortmund, Eindhoven (the Netherlands), London (Luton), Oslo (Torp), Paris
and Shefield.Qwww.wizzair.com.
CAR RENTAL
AUTO
Only 30 - 50/day and an English-speaking driver can also
be hired if you dont feel like sitting at the wheel. It also
offers 24-hour reservation, unlimited mileage and free
delivery to any Riga address.Qtel. (+371) 29 58 04 48,
janisosis@inbox.lv, www.carsrent.lv. Open 24hrs.
AVIS
Avis rents all kinds of premium sedans including Audis,
Volkswagens, Opels and Toyotas as well as SUVs and minivans.QRiga Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 73 53, www.avis.lv.
Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun 09:30 - 20:30.
Also at I-2, 11. novembra krastmala 29, tel. (+371) 67 22
58 76. Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A
BUDGET
Budget offers a wide selection of new Volkswagens and
Toyotas of various classes for competitive prices.QI-2, 11.
Novembra Krastmala 29, tel. (+371) 67 83 09 83, www.
budget.lv. Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at
Riga Airport (Arrivals E), tel. (+371) 67 20 73 27. Open
08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun 09:30 - 20:30.
EGICARRENT
This car hire company specialises in Volvos including
Volvo S80s starting at as low as 27 per day. Free delivery to any destination in Riga.Qtel. (+371) 29 53 10 44,
fax (+371) 63 02 63 39, egicarrent@egi.lv, www.egi.lv.
Open 24hrs. A
FERRIES
RIGA PASSENGER TERMINAL
If youre travelling to Riga with Tallink from Stockholm then
youll arrive here.QB-3, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371) 67 32 62
00, www.portofriga.lv.
TALLINK
Tallink provides regular ferry service between Riga and
Stockholm every other day.QB-2, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371)
67 09 97 00, www.tallink.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Also
at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Train station - Tunnel A).
Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
11

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES
BUS SCHEDULE
From RIGA
Dep. Arr.
23:30 06:10
12:30 16:25
18:00 23:40
22:25 07:20
19:15 09:30
09:00 11:35
18:30 21:05
08:00 10:30
14:15 16:50
08:40 20:15
18:45 06:15
09:00 20:00
17:00 05:30
20:00 06:00
22:00 08:00
09:00 13:25
12:30 16:55
16:00 20:25
18:30 22:55
02:30 06:50
08:00 12:15
09:00 13:35
12:00 16:30
14:15 18:40
17:00 21:20
19:00 23:45
08:40 12:35
19:00 22:55
22:00 01:35
07:00 10:55
10:35 15:00
12:30 17:00
02:30 06:30
07:30 11:30
11:00 15:05
14:15 18:40
18:00 22:05
22:25 02:25
CITY
KALININGRAD**
KAUNAS**
KAUNAS**
MINSK**
MOSCOW**
PRNU*
PRNU*
PRNU**
PRNU**
ST. PETERSBURG*
ST. PETERSBURG*
ST. PETERSBURG**
ST. PETERSBURG**
ST. PETERSBURG**
ST. PETERSBURG**
TALLINN*
TALLINN*
TALLINN*
TALLINN*
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TARTU*
TARTU**
TARTU**
VILNIUS*
VILNIUS*
VILNIUS*
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
To RIGA
Dep.
21:30
15:05
05:30
22:30
20:00
08:50
17:50
09:50
19:05
11:55
21:40
10:00
20:30
22:30
22:40
07:00
08:30
12:45
16:00
06:30
08:00
09:30
13:00
17:00
19:00
22:00
06:20
03:10
06:30
08:00
12:30
16:10
03:20
07:30
09:30
14:45
18:00
22:00
Arr.
06:00
18:50
11:45
07:20
10:45
11:25
20:25
12:25
21:45
21:35
07:00
21:45
07:00
10:35
08:50
11:25
12:55
17:10
20:25
10:35
12:25
13:55
17:40
21:45
23:15
02:20
10:15
07:00
10:30
12:25
17:00
20:30
07:20
11:45
13:55
18:45
21:55
02:20
* Lux Express ** ECOLINES

Local buses depart frequently to cities throughout
Latvia (www.autoosta.lv). Schedule subject to change.
BUS STATION (AUTOOSTA)

The bus station is open from 05:00 - 24:00. For information
try the info centre (08:00 - 21:00) . Riga is linked to major
European cities in the East and West. The bus is quicker
and cheaper than the train but they often fill up quickly,
especially during the summer. Ticket counters 1 - 9 sell
tickets to all local destinations. For buses to Kyiv, Moscow
and Western Europe visit the international ticket office or
starptautisk kase next to the waiting room or contact the
following that also have offices on the ground floor:QJ-3,
Prgas 1, tel. (+371) 90 00 00 09, www.autoosta.lv.
ECOLINES
As its name suggests, this company has been providing
affordable bus service to hundreds of cities in 18 European
countries since 1993. You can purchase a ticket at its service
centres at the Riga Bus Terminal and in the city centre on
aka iela or save some time and receive a substantial discount by ordering a ticket online at www.ecolines.net. Most
buses offer free coffee or tea onboard as well as electrical
sockets for recharging devices and free wi-fi.QJ-3, Prgas
1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 21 45 12, www.ecolines.net.
Open 07:00 - 21:00. Also at C-5, aka 45, tel. (+371) 67 27
44 44. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AW
LUX EXPRESS
Try its luxury express buses to Tallinn and Vilnius that include free wi-fi, coffee and tea, toilet and a lounge in the
back of the bus. Also operate routes to other cities in the
Baltics, Poland and Russia.QJ-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station),
tel. (+371) 67 78 13 50, www.luxexpress.eu/lv. Open
06:40 - 22:00. AW
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Riga has nine tram lines, 19 trolleybus routes and 53 bus routes
that operate from as early as
05:00 to as late as 01:00, depending on the route. You can
buy 1.15 tickets at designated
Riga Transport (Rgas Satiksme) ticket offices, at public
transport ticket machines or at Narvesen newsstands, post
offices and Rimi supermarkets. You can also buy a ticket
from the driver but it will cost you 2. Passengers have a
wide variety of ticket options including tickets for one
(1.15), two (2.30), four (4.60), five (5.75), 10 (10.90)
and 20 (20.70) rides or tickets good for one (5), three
(10) or five (15) days of travel.
The tickets are valid for trams, trolleybuses and city
buses. Press the ticket against the electronic ticket readers
on the bus or tram as soon as you board the vehicle. The
green light will flash and the display will show you how
many more rides are left on the card (e.g. Atlikums: 7).
You can also take a mikroautbuss or mikri, passenger
vans that list their destinations and route numbers on their
windscreens. Pay the driver the fare, which varies depending on the route. Read more about routes and departure
times in English at www.rigassatiksme.lv.
TAXIS
TRAINS
To avoid being swindled order a taxi by phone or use the

cabs at the Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija or the Albert Hotel.
For shorter journeys try not to pay more than 6.
CENTRAL STATION (CENTRL STACIJA)

Tickets for immediate departures have to be bought in
the main ticket hall on the right side of the main entrance,
counters N1 to 13. Tickets for international trains are sold
at counters N1 to 6. For overnight trips to Minsk or St.
Petersburg choose the more luxurious coupe, four-bunk
compartments or, on the train to Moscow, the first class
SV, two-bunk compartments, with video and on-board
service. Do not confuse perons (the platform) and ce (the
track). They are numbered separately in Latvia and can be
quite confusing. Pietur means stops and nepietur means
doesnt stop, so if you see a train schedule with a list of
towns and cities in the margin, it is best to check whether
the train stops there or not.QD-4, Stacijas laukums, tel.
(+371) 1181, www.pv.lv. Open 05:00 - 24:00.
BALTIC TAXI
Run by the national airline airBaltic, this company is among
the most reliable in Riga.Qtel. (+371) 20 00 85 00, www.
baltictaxi.lv. Open 24hrs. A
LADY TAXI
Most of its cabs are driven by female drivers.Qtel. (+371)
27 80 09 00, www.lady-taxi.lv. Open 24hrs. A
TOURS & TRAVEL

AREA TOURS
A jolly, English-speaking Latvian man will drive you anywhere in Latvia, Lithuania or Estonia with a car or van for as
long as you like. Make your own itinerary and drive! Available day or night. Recommended.Qtel. (+371) 29 58 04
48, janisosis@inbox.lv.
TRAVEL 2 RIGA
Travel2Riga offers low-key or VIP nightlife tours, a day out
with AK47s at the shooting range, go-karting, sailing trips,
paintball, zorb football, bungee jumping and even bobsleighing just to name a few activities. Naturally, its guides
can also take you on walking, cycling or Segway tours
of Riga.QI-2, Tirgou 10, tel. (+371) 29 22 83 10, info@
travel2riga.com, www.travel2riga.com. A
The train bridge over the River Daugava
M.Zaprauskis
13
Riga Basics
ALCOHOL
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
For a while Latvia had the dubious honour of holding the

record for the worlds drunkest person. In the summer
of 2012, a vagrant was found unconscious by police and
rushed to hospital where his blood test revealed an astounding 8.89 parts per mille of alcohol. Although we dont
suggest you attempt to break any records, we do hope you
enjoy a local drink in moderation while in Riga. Uavas and
Valmiermuias are among the nations best beers, but keep
your eye out for great craft brews by Labietis and Malduguns. The infamous Riga Black Balsam is a potent liquor
that Latvians enjoy inflicting on tourists. Bars are open at all
hours, but alcohol is only sold in shops from 08:00 - 22:00.
Nearly 800 years of foreign occupation havent given Latvians

much cause to celebrate, hence an acute lack of days off for
the working man. Pagan Midsummer celebrations are the
nations most popular holidays when locals head out to the
countryside for bonfires, beer and assorted fertility rites.
January 1
New Years Day (Jaungads)
March 25, 2016
Good Friday (Liel piektdiena)
March 27, 2016
Easter Sunday (Lieldienas)
March 28, 2016
Easter Monday (Otrs Lieldienas)
May 1
Labour Day (Strdnieku diena)
May 4
Independence day in 1990
June 23 - 24
Midsummer celebrations

(Lgo & Ji)
November 18
Independence day in 1918
Dec 24 - 26
Christmas (Ziemassvtki)
Dec 31
New Years Eve (Vecgada vakars)
COMMUNISM
Although Latvia was once an involuntary Soviet republic,
visitors should not come to Riga with high hopes of seeing
grand statues of Lenin and other objects from that bygone
era. Most of these monuments, which are viewed as symbols of oppression by Latvians, have been removed. A red
granite monument, once dedicated to the Latvian riflemen
who protected Lenin after the Revolution of 1917, still exists on Strlnieku laukums, but now honours all of the riflemen - Whites and Reds. Another monument, dedicated to
the Soviet liberation of Riga, is located on the other side of
the Daugava. Hammers and sickles can also be seen on the
wrought iron fence on A-B dambis near the Radisson Blu
Daugava Hotel.
LATVIAN POSTAL SERVICE (LATVIJAS PASTS)

Send postcards, letters and packages, buy stamps and
public transport tickets or do what most locals do here
(hence the queues) and pay your utility bills. Take a number and have a seat.QH-3, Brvbas bulv. 32, tel. (+371) 67
50 28 15/(+371) 67 00 80 01, www.pasts.lv. Open 07:30 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas
laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 07 39 00. Open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
LOCAL TIME
ROADS
Latvia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (EET): GMT +2

hours. Correct time: tel. 82 154 (in Latvian).
Latvia has some of the worlds worst drivers. Its not that
they cant steer or press the break pedal, although for
some reason Latvians cant master the art of parallel parking, its more likely a reckless streak that allows grown men
and women to act like children behind the wheel. Passing
on blind curves is shockingly common, red lights are ignored by most BMWs and pedestrians on crosswalks tend
to become targets for wannabe F1 drivers in tricked out
Mercedes jeeps. If, like many locals, you enjoy operating
an automobile while intoxicated, you should bear in mind
that all perpetrators, including foreigners, face a mandatory
ten-day jail sentence and a huge fine. The speed limit is
50km/h in towns, 90km/h on the open road and it is strictly
enforced. Speed traps are prevalent and bribes are not recommended.
MONEY
As of January 1, 2014, the Latvian national currency is the
euro. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are 1, 2, 5,
10, 20 and 50 euro cent coins as well as 1 and 2 euro coins.
Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20,
50, 100, 200 and 500. Because Latvia so recently switched
its currency, youll see prices at shops and restaurants in
both euro and lats until the end of March. There are currency exchange booths and ATMs everywhere. Most hotels,
restaurants and shops take credit and bank cards and weve
marked the establishments that accept them.
POST
SCAMS
Four of the Central Markets five pavilions
M.Zaprauskis
Some strip clubs, nightclubs and late night bars take advantage of inebriated patrons. Be wary of attractive girls on
Lvu Square asking you to join them for a drink in a nearby
bar. Youll be shocked to discover that the barely palatable
bottle of wine you bought them costs 700 or more. If you
refuse the bouncers will pummel you until you give them
your PIN code. than you purchased. Avoid seedy bars and
try to always pay in cash at nightclubs.
Andrejsala
In the early 19th century the riverside territory now known
as Andrejsala (Andrew Island) was little more than a sandbar near the right bank of the Daugava, but only 100 years
later it was already an industrialised peninsula home to an
electric power station, two ports, a granary, a cold storage
facility and a rail station. Although largely neglected for
decades, the area became popular with artists, entrepreneurs and other creative characters in the 2000s when it
hosted galleries, workshops and business incubators. Although a few artists and businesses remain, the area nearest the river was recently gentrified and is now home to a
number of upmarket waterfront restaurants offering excellent views of the yacht marina, ferry terminal and left bank
of the River Daugava.
GETTING THERE
Walk across the highway at the beginning of B-3, Elizabetes
iela and then carefully cross the train tracks, which are still
in use. Continue walking to your right until you reach the
entrance to Andrejsala. Youll see a restaurant called Naples
on your left.
ANDREJSALA RESTAURANTS
AQUA LUNA
One of the latest hotspots to open on the trendy Andrejsala waterfront is the appropriately named Aqua Luna
and you cant miss it. Just look for the stylish white box
and its huge summer terrace and lounge on the waters
edge. The international cuisine is superb, including the
oysters and the stewed Irish beef cheek that we tried. The
service is generally attentive and musicians and DJs keep
affluent, well-dressed Rigans entertained in the evenings.
If youre looking for refined dining with great views then
you can hardly do better than this place, but bear in mind
that smoking (both hookahs and cigarettes) is allowed on
the terrace and most locals like to light up. Reservations
recommended.QB-2, Andrejostas 4, tel. (+371) 67 65 09
22, www.aqualuna.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. (14 - 25). ALEBW
KOYA
What was once a derelict storage shed is now one of Rigas
hottest places to have a meal or a late night cocktail on the
water. Although hard to find for all but the most intrepid of
travellers, its worth the effort to find this stylish restaurant
that offers incredible views of the yacht marina, ferry terminal and Old Riga in the distance. Inside youll find concrete floors, timber ceilings and an open-plan kitchen hidden above the bar. The international cuisine is quite good,
albeit pricey, but most people just come to enjoy the ambience of one of the citys best outdoor terraces and its
excellent weekend brunch. DJs keep patrons entertained
until 03:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.QB-2, Andrejostas 4,
tel. (+371) 27 75 72 55, www.koyarestaurant.com. Open
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(9 - 16). AB
NAPLES
The name of this Italian restaurant is appropriate given its
location right on the water in the trendy Andrejsala district
of Riga. Naples specialises in all manner of Italian cuisine
including antipasti, salads, pastas, pizzas and a few main
courses. In the winter you can sit inside this cosy space
decked out in designer wooden furniture and enjoy a delicious meal and a fantastic view, but when the mercury
rises in summer this is one of the hottest venues to enjoy a
cocktail in the sun. The vista of the picturesque yacht marina is certainly a draw, but most people come to enjoy its
private swimming pool and the surrounding terrace populated by beautiful people on deck chairs. An affordable
lunch special is available on weekdays.QB-2/3, Andrejostas 2k-2, tel. (+371) 25 77 55 40. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (5 - 12). ALBCSW
NEARBY RESTAURANTS
EKSPORTS
If you prefer to dine next to the water and appreciate views
of sailing vessels and pleasure boats then this popular restaurant overlooking Rigas yacht marina and ferry terminal
is a good place to start. The menu, unsurprisingly, places
an emphasis on seafood from prawns and scallops to mussels and a selection of fresh fish, but landlubbers can also
order vegetarian dishes as well as ribeye steaks and burgers. The interior sports a nautical theme with lots of polished brass lighting fixtures and a mirror-like ceiling, but
in the summer youd be mad not to take advantage of its
terrace on two levels right on the water.QB-3, Eksporta
1A, tel. (+371) 26 69 40 45, www.barseksports.lv. Open
11:00 - 23:00. (10 - 20). AB
TICKET TO HEAVEN
The sight of a red double-decker bus parked next to the
water will make you wonder if someones spiked your
drink with hallucinogens, but youre not seeing things. It
really is here and it also happens to have excellent views of
the yacht harbour and ferry terminal. You can order some
food from the comfort of an outdoor couch, but it looks
like most people simply enjoy the hipster atmosphere
with a beer, a cappuccino or a cocktail.QB-2, Eksporta
15k-1, tel. (+371) 22 33 10 13, tth.lv. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
Bring your swim trunks when you have cocktails at Andrejsala
Beaches
With nearly 500km of coastline, Latvia has no shortage of
beaches. The problem is deciding which one to explore.
With this dilemma in mind weve put together a short list of
our favourite seaside hangouts. Obviously, not every beach
will be to everyones liking. Some people might prefer people watching and beer drinking among thousands of sunbathers at a crowded resort, while others might choose a
secluded beach for reading a book or having a picnic.
RIGA BEACHES
DAUGAVA BEACH
You can cool off in the River Daugava right in the centre of
Riga. Just walk, cycle or take a bus across the Vanu Bridge
to the Left Bank and youll see a proper beach on the right
side. Changing cabins are available as well as two portable
toilets (hidden behind some bushes near the highway)
and even a beach volleyball court. Unlike nearby Baltic
Sea beaches, you dont have to walk half a kilometre to get
wet. Just dive right in!QC-2, Balasta dambis.
Kids throw caution to the wind at Daugava Beach
M.Zaprauskis
LUCAVSALA PARK
Popular with local families not in the mood to take the train
to Jrmala, this island in the middle of the Daugava river has
been transformed into a recreation area by the city. It has
a small beach, an outdoor terrace, beach volleyball courts,
picnic areas, including one thats hidden in the woods, and
lots of green open space for sunbathing and sports. You can
also try wakeboarding in what appears to be perilously shallow water. Walk or cycle across the underground passage of
the Salu Bridge to the island.QLucavsala.
MEAPARKS BEACH
Although most people head to the Baltic Sea beaches of
Jrmala or Veci when the sun deigns to show itself in
summer, a beach of another kind is only a tram ride away
from the city centre in Meaparks. Just walk down the
main pedestrian street from the Riga Zoo and make your
first right on Pvu iela to find the beach at ezers. A caf
and portable toilets are available here as well as a playground and a jetty for fishermen, but bear in mind that
you have to do a fair bit of walking to get wet as the lake is
quite shallow here.QAt the end of Pv iela.
BEACHES BEYOND RIGA

All of the following beaches are easily reached by train
from the Riga central train station.
GARCIEMS BEACH
The quiet village of Garciems is seldom visited by tourists, but is easy to reach from the Riga central station. Its
only another two stops after Veci, but be sure to take a
Saulkrasti or Skulte bound train as some trains only go as
far as Veci. Garciems has some of Latvias highest sand
dunes and the walk to the beach through the pine forest
is picturesque to say the least. A kiosk or two are available
along the way, but you shouldnt expect much in the way
of amenities here. The beach is often deserted and is the
perfect place for a family outing. Locals often choose to
have picnics among the dunes for extra privacy. On windy
days Garciems is also popular among kiteboarders.QGarciems.
JRMALA
This resort has been attracting tourists since the 19th century when holidaymakers came here in droves for fresh air,
white sand beaches and spa treatments using local mud
and seawater. In the beginning of the previous century
people built cute summer cottages here and during the
Soviet era huge concrete hotels and rehabilitation centres
were erected on this narrow strip of land between the Baltic Sea and the River Lielupe. Most people take a 40-minute train ride from the Riga station to Jrmalas capital, Majori, which has a lively pedestrian street called Jomas iela,
thats packed with restaurants, and a Blue Flag beach. The
beach is also lined with summer terraces offering plenty of
food and drink, but on a hot summer day the place will be
packed with sunbathers. Decent public toilets, a lifeguard
and changing stations are also available.QMajori, www.
tourism.jurmala.lv.
SAULKRASTI BEACH
Saulkrasti, or Sunny Shores in English, is a long strip of
homes, hotels and restaurants straddling the highway to Tallinn roughly 40km north of Riga. The sleepy
town has plenty to offer in the way of amenities and
its beach stretches for over 15km, so finding a place to
relax by the sea is never a problem.QSaulkrasti, www.
visitsaulkrasti.lv.
VECI BEACH
Many Latvians often forgo Jrmala and head north in the
opposite direction to the old fishing village of Veci. After roughly 40-minutes exit the train and just follow the
swarms of people to the beach. Along the way youll find
a few kiosks and cafs where you can stock up on supplies and a few more should be available right next to the
beach. The beach isnt as crowded as the one at Majori, but
its still pretty packed on a hot day and its also the place
to go for beach volleyball. The public toilets beyond the
dunes are horrendous but you can use the toilet at the caf
if you buy a snack or a drink.QVeci.
17
Culture & Events

Perhaps the best aspect of Rigas cultural life is that worldclass performances are very affordable. Locals hold the opera and theatre in the highest esteem and make it a point
to attend often.
CINEMAS
FORUM CINEMAS
Forum Cinemas is the second largest cinema complex
in Northern Europe. 14 viewing halls with 3200 seats are
available to film-goers not to mention the largest movie
screen in the Baltic-Scandinavian region.QI-3, 13. janvra
8, www.forumcinemas.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. (4 - 8). A
SPLENDID PALACE
Rigas first cinema offers an ornate old world interior that
makes for an interesting movie experience and its smaller
new hall is also state of the art. It shows films from around
the globe as well as box office hits.QC-4, Elizabetes 61,
tel. (+371) 67 18 11 44, www.splendidpalace.lv. (3 - 5).
CLUBS & OTHER VENUES

COYOTE FLY
It often imports foreign DJs from around Europe and its
stage is also graced by local musicians, rappers and the
like.QC-4, Trbatas 2, tel. (+371) 29 43 06 93, www.
coyotefly.lv. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00.
DAUGAVA CONCERT HALL (DAUGAVAS
KONCERTZLE)
An outdoor summer venue for concerts and events on the
top floor terrace of the Triangula Bastions shopping centre.
Q11. Novembra krastmala 17, tel. (+371) 26 04 51 21.
DEPO
Underground club thats a venue for indie, industrial and
experimental groups as wells as alternative, metal, punk,
ska and garage bands.QI-2, Vau 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01
14, www.klubsdepo.lv.
KKC (KAEPES KULTRAS CENTRS)
This funky culture centre is a local hotspot for hipsters
who appreciate having drinks, listening to music and doing other arty things in a dilapidated wooden building.
Also hosts concerts and art exhibitionsQB-4, Skolas 15,
tel. (+371) 29 40 44 05. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 05:00.
Brainstorm (Prta Vtra) will conclude this years Latvian summer tour
in Riga at the New Hanza City territory on August 29. Photo courtesy of
Brainstorm on Facebook
MUSIC & EVENTS

Aug
Date Time Event
Venue
Free concerts at the Egle
1 - 31 20:00 outdoor terrace every
EG
evening this summer
Free concerts at the
1 - 31 20:00 Rockabilly House on Lvu
RH
Square every evening
Laba Daba Festival in Ratnieki with loads of punk
1
acts as well as Subhumans
(UK) and The Fall (UK).
More at www.labadaba.lv.
Saldus Saule Festival with
local favourites Sound
1
12:00 Poets, Dzelzs Vilks and
Prkons. More info at
www.saldussaule.lv
HOLI Colour Festival at
1
14:00 the Lucavsala Park; www.
LS
holi.lv
Combichrist (USA). Indus4
23:30
MP
trial metal concert. 18
5, 12, 19:00 Free music concerts at the
19,
Speri creative quarter;
SK
26 22:00 www.spikeri.lv
5, 12,
Free music concerts at the
19, 19:00 Berga Bazrs shopping arBB
26
cade; www.bergabazars.lv
5
19:00 Latvian Blues Band. Free
BB
Kubana 2015. This popular
annual music festival has
moved from Kaliningrad to
the Lucavsala Park in Riga.
LS
6-9
Headliners will include
HIM (Finland) and Panic!
At the Disco (USA). More
info at www.kubana.com
Jazz in Old Riga. Free jazz
6, 13,
concerts in the Small Guild
20, 17:00
SG
garden on Lvu Square
27
every Thursday
6, 13, 19:00 Free music concerts at the
20,
Kalnciems creative quar27 23:00 ter; www.kalnciemaiela.lv
Back at North (Sweden).
8
22:00
DP
Pop/punk concert
Annual Riga Festival with
14 free concerts, shows,
16
performances and other
events; www.rigassvetki.lv
Culture & Events

3, 10
11
Finnish rockers HIM will headline this years Kubana Festival in Riga
at Lucavsala Park from August 6 - 9. Photo courtesy of HIM on Facebook
14
23:59
15
12:00
18:30
15
19:30
16
12:00
22:00
19:00
18
20:00
22
21:00
16
26
20:00
26
22:00
29
19:00
29
19:00
29
19:30
29
22:00
Ida Corr (Denmark). 10

CF
- 15
Riga Festival Restaurant.
The citys best chefs offer
SK
their culinary wares at
Speri; www.rigassvetki.lv
Riga Funk Fest. Free funk
SK
concert until 02:00
Daugava Folk Music Festival with Ii, Kokle, Drdi,
SK
Riki and many more. Free
BI2 (Russia). 7 - 19
M
Efterklang (Denmark).
DMH
Indie rock concert. 5 - 10
Torba Na Kruche (Russia).
Alternative rock concert.
NK
7 - 10
Nervosa (Brazil) & Screaming Banshee (Italy). Thrash NK
metal concert. 12 - 15
MadCraft (Finland). Pop/
DP
punk concert
Nighshift industrial music
MP
festival. 8 - 10
The Tree of the Sun Latvian
LSH
dance show. 8 - 30
Prta vtra (Brainstorm).
Latvia's most popular
NHC
band. 25 - 70
Infant King (Germany).
DP
Garage rock band
12
12 13
15
18
18
27
29
30
19:00 Free music concerts at the

Kalnciems creative quar23:00 ter; www.kalnciemaiela.lv
White Night 2015. Free
music, theatre and art
throughout the night in
Riga; www.baltanakts.lv
10:00 Contemporary Crafts Festival at the Ethnographic
17:00 Museum
ELO 45th Anniversary Tour
20:00 with Electric Light Orchestra Classic. 10 - 60
Tijuana Bibles (UK). Psy22:00
chedelic/rock concert
Antithesis Dark Metal
Festival with headliners
Saturnus (Denmark) and
Ereb Alto (Sweden). 15
God is an Astronaut (Ire20:00
land). Rock conert. 15
The Hobos (LV) will per19:00
form their best songs
Ondo.lv Student Paradise
Festival. For the latest info
20:00
on headliners visit www.
studentuparadize.lv. 5 -8
The Viaggio Trio will
perform everything from
18:00
classical music to music by
Depeche Mode. 11 - 18
The Asturia (Ukraine)
electro-string quartet. Ver19:00
sions of famous classical
works and pop songs
Songs for the Sangha:
Deva Premal & Miten
20:00
perform spiritual old and
new age music
KQ
EM
RCC
DP
MP
MP
PR
AR
GG
RCC
Sept
2, 9,
16
19:00 Free music concerts at the

Speri creative quarter;
22:00 www.spikeri.lv
SK
Panic! at the Disco will headline this years Kubana Festival at Lucavsala from August 6 - 9. Photo courtesy of Panic! at the Disco on
Facebook
19
Culture & Events

CONCERTS IN JRMALA
Aug
DCH - Dzintari Concert Hall
Date Time Event
Barbara Hendricks (USA)
3
19:00
and Her Blues Band
Fanfare Ciocarlia (Roma4
20:00 nia) performing Roma
music
Viva Kalman: a tribute to
his operetta Silva. Hungar5
20:00 ian solists with the Latvian
National Simphony Orchestra
8 - 9 18:00 Chanson Festival
Lidia Baich. The Voice of
10 19:00
the Violin
Canadian Brass. The
11 19:00 legendary brass quintet in
Jrmala
Andrea Motis (Spain).
12 19:00 Mediterranean Vibrations
jazz concert
Bel Canto. A Feast with
13 19:00 Latvian soprano Inese
Galante
The Swingles (UK). Friday
14 19:00
in an A Capella Mood
Joey Morant (USA) & Daniil
15 19:00 Kramer (Russia). New YorkMoscow-New Orleans
Final Summertime Festival
16 18:00
concert with Inese Galante
17 International Romani
19:00
18
Culture Festival
Chicago Blues Brothers
19 19:00
(UK)
The Israel Philharmonic
20 20:00 Orchestra and Zubin
Mehta
The ILO roma music
23 19:00
ensemble
27 Latvian Pop Music Festival
19:00
30
LV Prles
Jumprava. Legendary Lat31 20:00
vian 1980s pop/rock group
Venue
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
DCH
The Dzintari Concert Hall can be easily reached

by train. Take a Jrmala bound train from the
Riga station to the Dzintari stop and then follow
the crowds up Turaidas iela to the venue. More
info at www.dzintarukoncertzale.lv
The Grammy-winning Swingles will perform at the Summertime

Festival at the Dzintari Concert Hall on August 14. Photo by Nedim
Nazerali courtesy of www.theswingles.co.uk
LATVIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (LATVIJAS

ETNOGRFISKAIS BRVDABAS MUZEJS)
This outdoor museum hosts a number of ethnographic
events, concerts and fairs throughout the year. Take
bus N1 from the corner of Merea and Trbatas to the
Brvdabas muzejs stop.QBrvbas gatve 440, tel. (+371)
67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 17:00. LK
MELN PIEKTDIENA (BLACK FRIDAY)
The only club in Riga dedicated to heavy metal music is
located within the brick walls of an old factory next to the
VEF Bridge. Live acts have included such heavyweights
as Napalm Death. Take tram N6 from Barona to the VEF
stop.QBrvbas 193c, tel. (+371) 29 87 94 75, www.
melnapiektdiena.lv.
NABAKLAB
This is a student favourite that regularly hosts ska, rock
and punk music concerts.QH-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12,
www.nabaklab.lv.
CONCERT HALLS
ARENA RIGA
A venue for both sporting events like the Continental
Hockey League and large concerts. Performers have included Placebo, Muse and the Sex Pistols.QA-4, Skanstes
21, tel. (+371) 67 38 82 00, www.arenariga.com.
DAILE MUSIC HOUSE (MZIKAS NAMS DAILE)
A former cinema is now a venue for Latvian concerts.QC4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 96 98 54, dailesnams.lv.
GREAT GUILD (LIEL ILDE)
Home of the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra.QH-2,
Amatu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 48 50, www.lnso.lv.
PALLADIUM RGA
A former cinema has been converted into a concert hall
by the same people who organise the annual Positivus
Festival.QC-4/5, Marijas 21 (entrance from Prses), tel.
(+371) 67 28 45 16, www.palladium.lv.
RIGA CATHEDRAL (DOMA BAZNCA)
The destination for world-class organ concerts. Tickets can
be purchased here at the ticket counter.QH-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv.
Culture & Events

RIGA CONCERT HALL
This concert hall is located in the grand Soviet-style auditorium of the Academy of Sciences building.QD-4,
Akadmijas laukums 1, koncertzaleriga.lv.
RIGA CONGRESS CENTRE (RGAS KONGRESU
NAMS)
A large venue for dance concerts, musicals, plays and of
course conferences.QF-2, Valdemra 5, tel. (+371) 67 04
36 78, www.kongresunams.lv.
SMALL GUILD (MAZ ILDE)
Popular venue for small concerts and events.QH-2, Amatu 3/5, tel. (+371) 67 22 37 72, www.gilde.lv/maza.
SPERI
The national chamber orchestra Sinfonietta Riga performs
at this chic renovated warehouse behind the Central Market.QD/E-4, Maskavas 4, korp. 2/3, tel. (+371) 67 21 50
18, www.sinfoniettariga.lv.
ZIEMEBLZMA CULTURE PALACE
(ZIEMEBLZMAS KULTRAS PILS)
This historic, recently renovated building on the
outskirts of Riga hosts all kinds of concerts. The easiest way to get there by public transport is to take a
Carnikava, Skulte or Saulkrasti bound train from the
Riga station five stops to the Ziemeblzma station.QZiemeblzmas 36, tel. (+371) 67 84 88 49,
ziemelblazma.riga.lv.
GALLERIES
AGIJAS SNAS STIKLA MKSLAS GALERIJA
QH-2, Laipu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 95 29, www.stiklagalerija.
lv. Open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
ARSENLS EXHIBITION HALL
Under the umbrella of the Latvian National Museum of Art,
this exhibition hall specialises in local and international
contemporary art projects and events.QH-1, Tora 1, tel.
(+371) 67 35 75 27, www.lnmm.lv. Open 12:00 - 18:00,
Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: 3.56 (Thursdays 1.42).
KIM?
This gallery displays works by contemporary and up-andcoming local and international artists. See its website for
information on exhibitions.QD/E-4, Maskavas 12/1, tel.
(+371) 67 22 33 21, www.kim.lv. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Tue
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ART & DESIGN
(DEKORATVI MKSLAS UN DIZAINA MUZEJS)
Its actually a museum but you can buy crafts from local artists
here.QI-2, Skru 10/20, tel. (+371) 67 22 78 33, www.lnmm.
lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
PUTTI
An art gallery that specialises in jewellery and fashion.
QI-2, Mrstau 16, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 29, www.putti.lv.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
RIGA ART SPACE
A multifunctional space for contemporary art exhibitions
and even music concerts run by the city of Riga.QI-2, Kungu 3, tel. (+371) 67 18 13 30, www.artspace.riga.lv. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2.85.
OPERA & BALLET

Sept
Tickets cost 4 - 40
Date Time Event
Venue
4
19:00 Season opening concert
The Barber of Seville,
5
19:00
OP
opera, Rossini
6
19:00 Giselle, ballet, Adam
OP
The Birds' Opera, opera
for children based on
18 19:00
OP
the story of Dr. Doolittle,
Lsns
19 12:00
OP
Lsns
19 18:00
OP
Lsns
La Bayadre, ballet,
20 19:00
OP
Minkus
Romeo and Juliet, ballet,
24 19:00
OP
Prokofiev
25 19:00 Il Trovatore, opera, Verdi
OP
Swan Lake, ballet, Tchai26 19:00
OP
kovsky
Unknown Territories. Three
once-acts brought to the
27 18:30
OPN
stage by young choreographers
27 19:00 Rigoletto, opera, Verdi
OP
Three Meetings. Three of
Latvia's best composers
30 19:00 are interpreted by some of OP
the world's best choreographers
Watch the Latvian National Opera perform Verdis classic opera

Rigoletto on September 27. Photo courtesy of the Latvian National
Opera - www.opera.lv
21
Culture & Events

CLASSICAL MUSIC
Aug
Date Time Event
Venue
Fleures Musicales
with Rudte LvmaneLindenbeck (organ) and
Nikolai Nikolov (viola/
2
19:00 Germany). Programme:
RC
J.S.Bach, G.Muffat,
Schumann, C.Saint-Sans,
L.Delibes, T.Dubois,
C.Debussy and A.Glazunov
Ave Maria with Olga
Pyatigorska (soprano).
Programme: J.S. Bach,
G.F. Hndel, L. Lucci, L.
RC
4
19:00
Bollmann, M. Reger, C.
Debussy, R.Wagner, F.Liszt,
C.Franck and S. Karg-Elert.
15 - 35
Organ music concert with
Una Cintia (organ) and
5
19:00 Indulis Cinti (violin).
RC
Programme: J.Langlais,
N.Hakim and V.mdbergs
Laura Kalnia (organ).
Programme: J.S.Bach, N.
7
19:00
RC
de Grigny, C.Debussy, G.
Bizet and J.Alain
Digna Markule (organ) and
Aija Frienfelde (violin).
9
19:00 Programme: J.S.Bach,
RC
F.M.Veracini, C.Franck and
J.Svendsen
J.S. Bach - Sounds and
Reflections with the Rga
11 19:00 Professional Symphonic
RC
Band and Ilze Reine
(organ)
The Asturia electro-string quartet will perform versions of famous

classical works and pop songs at the Great Guild on September 29
12
19:00
14
19:00
14
20:30
15
12:00
15
21:00
19
19:00
21
19:00
23
19:00
25
19:00
26
19:00
28
19:00
Iris Rieg (organ/Germany).

Programme: J.S.Bach,
N.Bruhns, F.Mendelssohn,
J.G.Rheinberger, C.Franck
and L.Vierne
Kristne Adamaite (organ)
and Ieva Manoni (soprano/
Italy)
Around the World in 8150
Seconds. A musical journey
around the world's greatest
port cities beginning and
ending with Riga. Free
Free concert. Augusts
Dombrovskis' Port of
Peace
Riga Festival gala concert
followed by fireworks on
11.novembra krastmala.
Free
Tlivaldis Deksnis. Organ
music concert
Aivars Kaljs (organ) and
Martina Doehring (soprano). Programme: J.S.Bach,
G.F.Hndel, A.Vivaldi,
F.Chopin, C.Saint-Sans,
H.Bishoph and A.Kaljs
Toccata alla Fantasia with
Jnis Pele (organ) and
the Putni vocal ensemble.
Programme: J.S.Bach,
Hildegard of Bingen,
M.Rossi, D.Buxtehude,
Ch.M.Widor, G.Muffat,
A.Caplet, J.Tavener,
P.van Ness, O.Harkovyy,
R.Jermaks and I.Rami
J.S. Bach - Sounds and
Reflections with the Rga
Professional Symphonic
Band and Vita Kalnciema
(organ)
Jakob Lorentzen
(Denmark). Programme:
C.Nielsen, R.Langgaard,
B.Moe and J.Lorentzen
Aija Zite (organ)
and Edgars Saksons
(percussion). Programme:
J.S.Bach, A.Piazzolla,
Ph.Glaas, A.Borodin and
M.Zari
RC
RC
VP
ZB
RC
RC
RC
RC
RC
RC
Culture & Events

OPERA & THEATRES
Sept
2
19:00
19:00
17
19:00
18
19:30
24
19:00
26
19:00
Vestards imkus (piano).

Programme: works by Mozart, Chopin and Scriabin.
5 - 7
Jolanta Barinska (organ)
and Anta Jankovska
(soprano). Programme:
J.S.Bach, G.F.Hndel,
P.Mascagni, G. Rosini,
J.N.Lemmens and
R.Strauss
Sinfonietta Riga Season
Opening Concert.
Programme: Haydn cello
concerto in c major; Beethoven Symphony No.1;
Klas Torstensson and Rolf
Wallin. 7 - 25
Cuarteto Casals (Spain).
Programme: Haydn,
Mozart, Schubert and
more
Riga Professional
Symphonic Band season
opening concert
Autumn Chamber
Music Festival. Arvo Prt.
Grammy Concert. Adam's
Lament with the Latvian
Radio Choir, Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir,
Vox Clamantis, the Tallinn
Chamber Orchestra and
Sinfonietta Rga. 15
ZB
RC
GG
DCH
GG
TICKETS
RC
VENUES
AR - Arena Riga BB - Berga bazrs
CF - Coyote Fly
DMH - Daile Music Hall
DP - Depo Nightclub
EG - Egle Terrace
EM - Ethnographic Museum GG - Great Guild
KQ - Kalnciems Quarter LNL - National Library
LS - Lucavsala Park
LSH - Latvian Society House MP - Meln Piektdiena
MZ - Meaparks
NHC - New Hanza City
NK - Nabaklab
OP - Opera

OPN - Opera New Hall
PR - Palladium Riga
RC - Riga Cathedral
RCC - Riga Congress Center RCH - Riga Concert Hall
RH - Rockabilly House
SG - Small Guild
SK - Speri Concert Hall VP - Vrmanes Park
ZB - Ziemeblzma Culture Centre
DAILE THEATRE (DAILES TETRIS)

Classic theatre like Faust in Latvian.QB-4, Brvbas 75, tel.
(+371) 67 29 44 44, www.dailesteatris.lv.
ERTRDES STREET THEATRE (ERTRDES
IELAS TETRIS)
This small avant-garde theatre not only offers modern local plays, but also plenty of performances where knowledge of Latvian or any other language isnt necessary.QC5, ertrdes 101a, tel. (+371) 26 35 53 24, www.git.lv.
LATVIAN NATIONAL OPERA (LATVIJAS
NACIONL OPERA)
A magnificent venue for opera, ballet and international
performing artists.QH-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3, tel. (+371) 67
07 37 77, www.opera.lv.
LATVIAN NATIONAL THEATRE (LATVIJAS
NACIONLAIS TETRIS)
A beautiful building that is home to performances of traditional plays and musicals.QG-1, Kronvalda bulv. 2, tel.
(+371) 67 00 63 00, www.teatris.lv.
MIKHAIL CHEKHOV RIGA RUSSIAN THEATRE
(MIHAILA EHOVA RGAS KRIEVU TETRIS)
As the name would suggest, theatre in Russian.QH-2,
Kalu 16, tel. (+371) 67 22 53 95, www.trd.lv.
NEW RIGA THEATRE (JAUNAIS RGAS TETRIS)
Local theatre performances with an avant-garde flavour.
QC-5, Lpla 25, tel. (+371) 67 28 07 65, www.jrt.lv.
TICKET PARADISE (BIEU PARADZE)

Tickets to mostly Latvian events such as concerts, festivals and theatre productions.QG-1, Kronvalda bulv.
2 (National Theatre), tel. (+371) 90 00 20 00, www.
bilesuparadize.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00. Also at the box offices of the Opera (H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3), Daile Theatre (B-4, Brvbas 75) and Puppet
Theatre (C-4, Barona 16/18). A
TICKET SERVICE (BIEU SERVISS)
You can buy tickets to major concerts by international stars
online or at one of its many outlets around Riga.QI-3, 13.
janvra 8 (Stockmann - top floor), www.bilesuserviss.lv.
Open 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Statoil petrol stations. A
Experience Rossinis classic opera The Barber of Seville on September 5.

Photo courtesy of the Latvian National Opera - www.opera.lv
23
Cafs
Not quite restaurants, but not bars either, the following are
laid back places where you can sip a coffee and read the
paper without receiving dirty looks from the staff. Some of
the cafs listed here also serve brunch at the weekend.
CAFS
BURUJA BROKASTIS
Latvian rhubarb wine, homemade buttermilk ice cream
and coffee made with beans freshly roasted right here in
Riga? Sounds very bourgeois indeed. Popular with Java
fanatics, local hipsters and ladies who lunch with their
little dogs in tow, this tiny brown and gold room is home
to a simple menu of soups, salads, sandwiches as well as
a weekend brunch, but youll have to arrive early to get
a seat on the comfy leather bench. Its summer terrace is
also one of the better places in Riga to enjoy some delicious, quality ice cream.QC-4, Dzirnavu 84, tel. (+371)
29 34 33 55. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
(3 - 5). ABW
CAF BALANSS
If youre looking to balanss out your diet after an evening
of feasting on fatty Latvian cuisine you might consider
substituting pork knuckle for homemade croissants, pastries, light salads and healthy sandwiches at this small caf
on the ground floor of the Tallink Hotel Riga. Plenty of coffee, tea and juice are also available as well as a wi-fi connection.QD-4, Elizabetes 24, www.hotels.tallink.com.
Open 08:00 - 20:00. ASW
ELKOR FOOD & WINE
With huge windows facing Freedom Boulevard on one
side and the Freedom Monument on the other, this is the
place to go if you enjoy views with your food and drink.
Have a seat and order omelettes, toasted panini, homemade pizzas and pastas as well as delicious desserts from
one of the waitresses or go straight to the counter and
just pick out what you want to eat. A large selection of
wine, cocktails and beer is also available, which you can
sip at the bar, by one of the windows or near the openplan kitchen. A shop selling gourmet food and drink is
available in the cellar.QG-3, Brvbas bulvris 19, tel.
(+371) 67 21 34 55, www.foodandwine.lv. Open 09:00
- 22:00. (3 - 8). AS
Enjoy Rigas vibrant cafe scene
M.Zaprauskis
FAZENDA
The rooms of this historic building have only partially been
restored as the designers decided to simply sand down
the existing wood plank walls and ceilings to create a cosy
atmosphere that is only enhanced by the tile mosaic tables, the fireplace and the hanging dried flowers. You can
sit down for a full meal of international dishes from salads
and seafood to steaks or try something from the vegetarian menu or the breakfast meals (served until 12:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00). You can also just grab a slice of cake and a latte
at the counter.QD-1, Nometu 7, tel. (+371) 67 61 61 96,
www.fazenda.lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (4 - 11). AIBW
OSRISS
The first of opera director Andrejs agars many caf ventures, and the only one to survive, Osiris found a successful recipe in the mid-1990s and stuck with it. Inexpensive
breakfasts, sandwiches, international cuisine and a romantic ambience make this place a favourite of local big
shots, politicians and intelligentsia so make a reservation
for dinner.QC-4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02, www.
cafeosiris.lv. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
(4 - 10). AB
NEW
PAGALMS (COURTYARD)
Tennis anyone? Actually this stylish caf has very little to do
with the sport apart from its unusual location overlooking
the clay courts behind the National Theatre. Were it not for
the dark wood and the white tiled walls one might mistake
this trendy eatery for a surf shack of sorts, but the used
boards stored up in the rafters may have influenced our
opinion. Although the refined main courses on the small
menu, such as tuna steaks and duck breasts, command elevated prices, the three-course lunch special is a steal at only
7 and the breakfast (09:00 - 12:00) and weekend brunch
(11:00 - 16:00) are also quite affordable. Meals are served
on custom-made crockery and plenty of outdoor seating is
also available in the summer.QF-1, Kronvalda bulvris 2B,
tel. (+371) 25 64 20 30. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Mon 09:00
- 22:00, Tue 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (5 - 15). ABW
ROCKET BEAN ROASTERY
This industrial-style caf on Rigas undisputed hipster
Mecca, Miera iela, specialises in exceptional coffee, craft
brews and a small menu of imaginative international cuisine. The din of spirited conversation and an overburdened
espresso machine creates a lively ambience thats hard to
beat, especially at lunch when you can order an affordable
two- or three-course meal. Pour yourself a free glass of
water at the counter, order a slice of cake or do as the locals do and fire up your laptop under funky lamps made of
driftwood and recycled beams. You can also take a peek at
the coffee roasting operation in the back.QA/B-5, Miera
29/31, tel. (+371) 20 21 51 20. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Mon
08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 10). ASW
Cafs
NEW
SPRNOS
This family-run caf claims to be Rigas first brunch restaurant and were inclined to agree as a variety of hot and cold
buffets are laid out from morning till night in this unique
space on two floors decorated with floral wallpaper, loads
of fresh flowers and lots of other cutesy touches that have
made it a hit with well-dressed local ladies who lunch. In
fact, this predominance of female clientele combined with
the beautifully blonde wait staff make us wonder why
more men havent discovered this hidden gem. The spectacle of gorgeous women dressed in aprons in front of a
table full of food is a Don Draperesque fantasy that cant
be beat. Refined international cuisine can also be ordered
a la carte, but most people seem to enjoy the buffet.QC4, Trbatas 28, tel. (+371) 22 00 22 97, www.sparnos.lv.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
(7 - 15). ABW
COFFEE & CAKE

ART CAF SIENNA
If the interior of this elegant caf werent so cosy, you
might think youve stumbled into a room at the nearby
Art Nouveau Museum. The antique wallpaper, clocks, furniture, chandeliers, bookcases and paintings as well as the
attentive, old-fashioned service make one feel as if theyve
stepped back in time. Enjoy the most decadent desserts
available in Riga, including the rum-soaked Black Forest
torte, which are all made by the award-winning chefs at
Vincents - the most exclusive restaurant in Latvia. Order
a fancy pot of tea, a cappuccino, a glass of Champagne
or a cognac and breathe in the sophisticated fin de sicle
ambience or just admire one of the citys most spectacular art nouveau edifices on the opposite side of the street.
QB-3, Strlnieku 3, tel. (+371) 26 14 22 86, www.sienna.
lv. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. TBS
COFFEE TOWER
So youre walking down the street and you feel your last
energy ebbing away. A delicious, professionally brewed
latte or cappuccino would certainly hit the spot, wouldnt
it? Thats exactly what the friendly hipster beardistas
(their word) at Coffee Tower are there for. Walk up to their
windows at various locations throughout the city and
order an Illy takeaway coffee and recharge your batteries before a meeting, a shopping session or some intensive sightseeing. A drive through at the ferry terminal is
also scheduled to open soon in case you have your own
ride.QG-3, Trbatas 2f, tel. (+371) 28 28 77 87, www.
coffeetower.lv. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 21:00. Also at H-2, Kau 11a; C-4, Bazncas 14; B-2/3,
Eksporta 3a; D-1, Nometu 1; at the corner of H-2, Z.A.
Meierovica bulvris and Tora. ASW
Dozens more cafs at

www.riga.inyourpocket.com
INNOCENT CAF
This red, black and grey caf employs some of the citys
best baristas so its a safe bet that youre going to get superb coffee here. Take a seat at one of the elevated booths
or on a leather sofa and take advantage of free wi-fi and
local press with a glass of wine, beer or maybe even a
cocktail or browse some of its upmarket coffee products
at its shop in the back. Take away drinks are available and
you can even add your own syrups at the self-serve station. Its also a popular destination for brunch, which is
served every day.QC-4/5, Blaumaa 34, tel. (+371) 29 34
95 07, www.innocent.lv. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. BSW
M CAFE
This hip little vegetarian caf wont make you moo, but
youll probably be happy to know that all of the homemade pastries, cakes and Belgian waffles served here are
baked with free range eggs, locally-sourced dairy products and freshly milled flour. Take a seat at the comfortable
long bench that stretches across the entire left wall and
enjoy a tasty treat with a cup of coffee, tea or a variety of
freshly squeezed juices in this modern venue with white
walls, large picture windows and worn wooden floors. It
also serves vegan dishes and delicious 100% natural frozen yoghurt with a variety of toppings including fresh
fruit and berries.QB-5, Trbatas 66, tel. (+371) 28 27 18
98. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
ABSW
25
Restaurants
A thin-crust pizza, fresh sushi, hearty pork knuckle or an
Armenian shashlik are never far from your fingertips in Riga
and many cafs now offer cheap lunch specials to lure diners into their establishments. A tip of 10% is expected at
most places. The average cost of a main course is listed in
parentheses.
AMERICAN
CITYDINER
This 1950s American-style diner offers an over-the-top interior of red upholstered booths and bar stools, chrome finished table tops and loads of kitschy advertising posters and
neon signs from the Home of the Brave. Although we would
have loved to have seen an extensive breakfast menu, the
blueberry pancakes with maple syrup or the affordable allday breakfast plate will have to suffice. Where City Diner
truly shines is in its selection of milkshakes and burgers, but
if youre craving something a bit more local it also serves
meat dumplings and beef Stroganoff. Heinz ketchup and
Tobasco on each table is an authentic American touch, but
wed much prefer an open-faced turkey sandwich, some
meatloaf with mashed taters and a short stack with eggs,
sausages and hash browns.QC-4, Krija Barona 10, tel.
(+371) 25 40 10 00, www.diner.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (5 - 10). TASW
NEW
LAACIS
Looking for a little taste of the States while in Riga? The
Bears raised wooden tables and industrial lighting make it
a few degrees too stylish to be called a diner, but its solid
menu of American favourites from Philly cheese steaks
and chowder to juicy burgers and chilli con carne with
a side of Doritos corn chips certainly puts one in mind
of roadside cafs and backyard barbecues. Tasty Latvian
brews and ciders are available on draught and a terrace is
also at your disposal in the summertime, but in our estimation we still cant call Laacis the genuine article until it adds
a big breakfast of eggs, sausages and flapjacks to its menu.
Hint, hint!QC-4, Trbatas 7, tel. (+371) 25 47 49 14. Open
09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. (6 - 10). A
ASIAN
CITY WOKS
Asian fast food cafs seem to be all the rage in Riga these
days and locals seem to turn up their noses at food that
hasnt first been cooked at ultra-high temperatures in a
wok. If food flash fried in front of you sounds appealing then
head over to City Woks located just behind the Radisson Blu
Hotel Latvija skyscraper. Choose your type of noodle or rice,
followed by a meat and/or vegetable and a sauce and watch
the wok masters behind a glass partition do their magic.
Valmiermuias beer is available in bottles and free refills can
be had on soft drinks. Naturally, everything can be ordered
as takeaway.QC-4, Bazncas 9/11, tel. (+371) 26 10 08 20,
www.citywoks.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 7). AS
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino
T Child-friendly
V Home delivery
E Live music
J Old town location B Outside seating

X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wi-fi
GAN BEI
Located on the 7th floor a popular shopping mall, this stylish
restaurant is a must see for hungry shoppers. You can order
a wide range of Asian cuisine from sushi and sashimi to classic Chinese and Indian dishes that are listed on a menu thats
as long as a novel. The quality of the food is excellent, but in
our opinion the serving sizes could be a bit bigger. No matter.
You can console yourself with a tasty cocktail or a delicious
Valmiermuia draught. Although the trendy interior is definitely a draw, most people would give their right arm to get
a seat out on the wonderful terrace.QC-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga - 7th floor), tel. (+371) 67 28 84 20, www.ganbei.
lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (7 - 12). AVBS
HIMALAJU-ZIJAS VIRTUVE
After working for the popular Gan Bei chain of Asian restaurants in Riga for seven years Nepalese chef Bam Bhandari decided to open his own restaurant specialising in
Chinese, Thai, Indian and Nepalese cuisine and were very
happy that he did. Unlike the aforementioned restaurant
that places a large emphasis on its modern interior, this
family-run eatery is a much simpler affair with standard
furniture and a few photos of Himalayan vistas. Here its
all about the delicious food, which is often quite spicy, and
the friendly service provided by the chef and his wife. Vegetarian dishes are also on offer as well as a cheap business
lunch from 12:00 - 17:00.QB-5, Brvbas 102, tel. (+371)
20 37 29 38, www.npasiankitchen.com. Open 10:00 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at C-4, Blaumaa 14. Open 10:30
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (4 - 8). ASW
NEW
WISHES
The Chinese staff at Wishes are still learning Latvian, but
thankfully they also speak quite a bit of English despite a
recent post on their FB page that stated: Next Monday
you can eat this - - pork bum, yammy! Although were
not usually fans of pork bum or yams for that matter, the
chefs whip up a decent buffet of Asian-style cuisine at this
surprisingly spacious bistro decorated with Chinese knickknacks that are also for sale. Although the cuisine seems
to be cooked with local palates in mind, the prices are so
cheap that you probably wont care.QB-4, ertrdes 4,
tel. (+371) 27 47 18 58, www.wishes.lv. Open 11:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 4). AS
Restaurants
BAGELS
JS BAGELS
This charming little bagel bistro, which is already a hit with
the citys American expat population, offers five different kinds of bagels served with a wide variety of fillings.
Although were quite partial to the big breakfast bagel
bursting with fried eggs and bacon, we also recommend
the Reuben, the classic cream cheese and lox and pretty
much anything else thats listed on the big blackboard
behind the counter. Order takeaway bagels, which are
imported from the UK, and make your own breakfast at
home or have a seat with a coffee, tea or its speciality freshly squeezed juices.QC-4, Bazncas 8, tel. (+371) 28
36 76 71, www.jsbagels.eu. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (3 - 4). ASW
BAKERIES
CADETS DE GASCOGNE
Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Laranes French
bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this
side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pt, quiches,
strong coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice also make
this boulangerie a favourite retreat.QG-2, Z.A. Meierovica
bulv. 8, tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03, www.cadets.lv. Open
07:00 - 22:00. Also at C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas
13 (Berga Bazrs). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 21:00. AB
SAFIE TURKISH BAKERY

Although Riga has had its fair share of Turkish kebab shops
over the years, some more authentic than others, the city has
never had its own Turkish bakery - until now. Enjoy traditional
varieties of baklava with pistachios, walnuts and other tasty
ingredients or savoury pastries with different fillings from
meat and mushrooms to spinach and cheese created by a
professional baker from Turkey. You can also order plenty of
coffee and tea in this charming, small space decorated with
bright walls and some exposed brick. Naturally, you can order your java and Anatolian delicacies to take away.QC-5,
ertrdes 37, tel. (+371) 29 81 81 75, www.safie.lv. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. AS
AZERBAIJANI
APERON
Although the Turkish and Georgian meals on the menu
made us doubt the authenticity of this restaurant, we
threw caution to the wind and ordered the khinkali
anyway, which was not we expected, but nothing to
complain about either. Two young men attempted to
serve all of the patrons on the shady terrace, but came
up a little short. The presence of a communal bottle of
Listerine in the toilet was also distressing.QB-3, Elizabetes 7, tel. (+371) 67 27 59 64/(+371) 26 96 90 08,
apsheron.lv. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 13). AB
27
Restaurants
BARBECUE
BURGER JOINTS
CHARLESTONS
Weve been big fans of this casual, yet elegant restaurant
for years. The main dining hall offers soft, dark colours and
much of the space is divided by stacks of alder firewood,
which is used to smoke many of its meat and fish dishes.
In fact, the delicious half chickens, pork and beef ribs and
other Charleston delicacies are smoked for 4 - 14 hours
in a specially-designed smoke room downstairs. Naturally, seafood and a variety of vegetarian dishes are also
available for the non-carnivores among us. Charlestons
also has a great weekend brunch (Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
QC-4/5, Blaumaa 38/40, tel. (+371) 67 77 05 73, www.
charlestons.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (10 - 21). ABSW
GHETTO BURGER
Located opposite the Grzikalns skatepark and basketball
courts, the aptly named Ghetto Burger has a stylish interior that includes plenty of exposed brick, lots of potted
plants, jet black tables and chairs and a mural of a hip and
happy Jesus chowing down on a big burger. Half a dozen
tasty burgers can be had here for under 3, but we recommend you upgrade your sandwich with an extra meat
patty for a small fee. The joint is manned by youngsters,
so service is hit or miss, but the food is good and a daily
special is also available.QB-6, Prnavas 42, tel. (+371) 20
20 44 64, www.ghettofamily.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(3 - 4). BSW
RIBS & ROCK

With a name like Ribs & Rock one might expect a southern-style barbecue joint with wooden picnic tables and
paper placemats, but this is an upmarket affair more akin
to an elegant blues club than an American roadhouse. In
any event, if you like rock music and lots and lots of meat
then youre in luck as burgers, steaks, roast beef sandwiches and steak tartar are all on offer as well as some fish dishes for fair weather vegetarians. A separate menu dedicated
to a variety of ribs is, however, its main attraction. QI-2,
Kau 8, tel. (+371) 28 65 04 50, www.ribsrestaurant.lv.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (14 - 28). AEB
STREET BURGERS
If you think that yellow clown with the red hair knows how
to make a real American burger then go straight to this
place to see how mistaken you are. Order one of roughly
half a dozen burgers with a side of fries and dont forget to
add extra cheese or bacon to tempt fate. Vegetarians will
no doubt appreciate the Portobello mushroom burger,
but being true gluttons we chose the ghetto burger thats
served with two thick beef patties and double cheese.
Valmiermuias beer is available on draught not to mention
soft drinks with free refills!QC-4, ertrdes 27, tel. (+371)
20 23 36 39, www.streetburgers.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Also at D-1, Mea 4a. (4 - 9). AVBSW
Restaurants
CENTRAL ASIAN
UZBEKISTNA
A visit to Uzbekistan is like a trip to Samarkand or Tashkent
but without the heat. Its whitewashed walls are decorated with beautiful ceramic plates, traditional tubeteika
hats and paintings of Silk Road caravans, while the floor is
covered with Central Asian and near eastern carpets. Enjoy delicious shurpas (soups), hot non (bread), spicy manti
(meat dumplings) and shashliks (grilled meat) galore. You
can also watch your meat sizzling on the grill behind a
glass partition to the left or have a seat on comfortable
couches on its summer terrace outside.QB-5, Bruinieku
33, tel. (+371) 67 29 22 70, www.uzbekistana.lv. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). ABS
CHEAP & QUICK

PELMEI XL
As the name suggests, it offers extra large portions of
chicken, vegetarian, pork, lamb or cheese pelmei (Russian ravioli) for extra small prices. Also available are two
kinds of soups and potato-based salads. Do as the locals
do and wash it down with a beer or, if you havent had
enough booze at 03:00, an XL shot of Moskovskaya vodka.
QI-2, Kau 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 27 28, www.xlpelmeni.lv.
Open 09:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. Also at D-4,
Stacijas 2 (train station). Open 10:00 - 22:00. (3). S
CHINESE
OLD SHANGHAI
Unlike other Asian restaurants, Old Shanghai has broken
away from the traditional dcor of red lanterns and Chinese landscape paintings, choosing instead a modern grey,
minimalist interior whose chief decoration is the tempting
cooked ducks hanging in the open-plan kitchen behind a
glass partition. Try delicious dishes prepared by its Shanghai-born chef like steamed scallops in garlic sauce or one of
its tasty hot pots, not to mention an impressive selection of
sushi.QA-5, Valdemra 123, tel. (+371) 67 37 23 37, www.
oldshanghai.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (10 - 15). A
CZECH
SVEIKS, VEIK! (HELLO VEJK!)
Not unlike the scores of other bars dedicated to Jaroslav
Haeks classic character the Good Soldier vejk that dot
the Bohemian countryside, this one has a cosy atmosphere of solid oak tables and exposed brick walls on two
floors, not to mention its most important feature - great
beer. Uavas, Bauskas and Staropramen are on draught,
cheap Baltic-Czech cuisine is on the menu and you can
even order a shot of ice cold Becherovka that tastes like
gingerbread cookies in liquid form. Best of all, unlike the
staff that man the beer halls of Prague, the ladies here
arent afraid to smile when they take your order.QB-5,
Stabu 23, tel. (+371) 67 31 46 74, www.svejk.lv. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8). AEB
31
Restaurants
DOUGHNUTS
INDIAN
ZE DONATS (THE DONUTS)

Not quite Dunkin Donuts, but pretty darn close. This stylish
brown and white doughnut shop offers friendly wait staff,
free wireless and even a chillout room with couches and a
flat screen TV, not to mention delicious doughnuts. Chow
down on Boston creams, glazed and dozens of other sweet
concoctions including the green Pistachio Shrek! Coffee, tea
and huge brownies are also on offer.QF-3, Valdemra 18,
tel. (+371) 67 33 23 31, www.zedonats.lv. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. SW
INDIAN TIKKA HOUSE (PADDY WHELANS)

Its location inside Rigas landmark Irish pub may seem
strange at first, but there might just be a spark of genius
here. Who wouldnt want to watch a football match with a
cold beer and a chicken tikka masala with a side of freshly
baked naan? Start with mouth-watering onion bhajias,
pakoras and samosas and move on to classic Indian main
dishes cooked in a real tandoor. Indian food is served during the hours that we have listed as opening times.QI-2,
Grcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, paddy@pub.lv,
www.pub.lv. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 23:00. Closed Mon. (6 - 10). AXS
FRENCH
NEW
GRANDE BRASSERIE RIGA
If youre looking for a chic, yet affordable place to dine on
French and European cuisine, this expansive, airy space is
a good place to start. Take the stairs to the mezzanine and
order a glass of wine or a Belgian brew while admiring the
central brass-clad bar and the checkerboard floor from
above. The brasserie is open for lunch and dinner and on
Sundays you can drop by for its grand brunch. A business
menu is also available on weekdays, which is good value
for money.QC-4, Dzirnavu 57a, tel. (+371) 67 30 48 75.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 17:00. (7 - 14). ABSW
GEORGIAN
HAAPURI
Although were great admirers of Georgian cuisine, we
decided to play it safe at this small bistro, but werent at
all disappointed with the classic kharcho (beef, rice and
tomato soup), which was surprisingly spicy, or the tasty
khinkali (meat dumplings). A small menu is written on the
wall as you enter in Latvian and Georgian, so you might
have to use hand gestures and play some charades to understand whats on offer, but if youre looking for cheap
and authentic home cooking from the Caucasus Mountains, youve come to the right place. Try one of its freshly
baked breads or savoury pastries.QC-4, Trbatas 41/43
(entrance from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 26 03 10 63. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (4 - 7). BS
PIROSMANI
Named after one of Georgias most revered painters, Niko
Pirosmani, this rustically decorated restaurant located in a
renovated warehouse beyond the Central Market also displays several reproductions of the starving artists colourful
paintings of bearded men in wool hats feasting. The food is
delicious and authentic from the savoury lamb stew to the
hinkali (spicy meat dumplings), which are each nearly the
size of a fist. The mountain nations best wines are also on
offer, but you might want to order a whole bottle, and some
traditional bread, as the chefs take their time preparing each
meal.QD-4, Maskavas 6, tel. (+371) 67 21 52 44, www.
restaurant-pirosmani.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 10).
NEW
SINGHS
This popular Indian restaurant has a flat screen TV showing Indian music videos and a few large antique photos of
the subcontinent, but otherwise Singhs is an elegant affair
with tiled walls in the colour of the Indian flag and a posh
second floor space meant to impress. Enjoy an aromatic
tea while you choose from a number of delicious authentic dishes, but anyone averse to mouth-watering kormas,
Masalas and curries can opt for an Asian fusion meal like
the sweet and sour pork or the Shanghai chicken. Naturally fragrant rice and fresh naan are also available as well
as Indian brews and an affordable lunch special can be had
on weekdays.QC-5, ertrdes 32, tel. (+371) 66 22 00 00,
www.singhs.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (8 - 10). ABS
HOME DELIVERY
GAN BEI
Charge: 3 in Riga or free for orders over 21. Delicious
Asian and Indian food from the chain of Gan Bei restaurants.Qtel. (+371) 67 22 52 25, www.ganbei.lv.
Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:30.
LIDO
Delivery: 5 (free for orders over 30). The countrys
largest chain of Latvian restaurants.Qtel. (+371) 80
00 54 36, www.lidopiegade.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
PIZZA LUL
Big New York-style pizzas. Delivery within 49 minutes:
free of charge for orders over 14.Qtel. (+371) 80 00
58 58, www.lulu.lv. Open 24hrs. A
VAIRK SAULES
Charge: free for orders over 14. Order soups, salads, sushi, international dishes, Asian cuisine or thin
crust pizzas to your door.Qtel. (+371) 88 33, www.
vairaksaules.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
WOKI TOKI
You can order cheap beef and broccoli, spring rolls,
won ton soup and other dishes. Delivery charge: 3 or
free for orders over 15.QB-5, tel. (+371) 25 41 44 66,
www.wokitoki.lv. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A
Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL
BESTSELLERS
Although this stylish restaurant on the ground floor of
the Albert Hotel can accommodate hundreds of diners,
its warm autumnal colours create a cosy atmosphere
despite all of the space. The small selection of international food is by no means unique, but the menu itself
certainly is. In keeping with its literary theme, each patron is given a pen and asked to place a check mark next
to the dishes he would like to order. A daily breakfast
buffet and lunch special are also available.QB-4, Dzirnavu 33 (Albert Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 33 17 17, www.
alberthotel.lv. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 23:00. (7 - 12). AB
ESPLANDE
The interior is neutral and can accommodate hundreds
of tourists, but the cuisine it serves is simply fantastic.
Start with the pepper seared beef carpaccio with truffle
emulsion and move on to delicious mains as diverse as
red wine braised duck leg and mustard glazed pork chop
with roasted vegetables. All-you-can-eat breakfast, lunch
and dinner buffets are also available for 15, 11 and 20,
respectively. You can start your day early as the breakfast
buffet is served from 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. If
you have children with you then drop them off in the kids
game room.QF-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 11, www.restaurantesplanade.
lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (11 - 18). TABW
C.U.T.
This upmarket restaurant located on the ground floor of
the Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel specialises in international cuisine from classic bouillabaisse and pasta dishes
to home-smoked duck breast with plum chutney and
grilled beef tenderloin. Naturally, all of this can be enjoyed during the summer months in its fantastic open
courtyard, but during the winter you can also just have
a beer or a creative cocktail at its bar. C.U.T. also prides
itself on its wine list not to mention its daily breakfast
buffet for 8 - 17 from 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.
QC-4, Elizabetes 73 (Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel),
tel. (+371) 67 78 55 77, www.restaurantcut.lv. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (9 - 14). ABW
GUTENBERGS
In keeping with the Gutenberg theme of this four-star hotel, its cellar restaurant offers old world elegance with dark
wood panelling, brass chandeliers and velvet upholstered
furniture. The menu offers refined international cuisine like
stuffed calamari with Jerusalem artichokes as well as classic
local dishes like Baltic herring and smoked eel. Impressive
breakfast (07:30 - 10:30) and lunch (Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00)
buffets can also be enjoyed for only 9. However, in the
summer youd be mad not to take the lift up to its summer
rooftop terrace. Not only does it offer excellent views of the
square, it also has a great barbecue menu.QH-1, Doma
laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 81 40 90, www.gutenbergs.eu.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (12 - 20). AEBX
33
Restaurants
K|I|D
Its bright white walls, modern interior design, fresh flowers and hanging paintings make one feel as if theyre dining in a trendy art gallery. The wide variety of reasonably
priced soups, salads, pastas and main courses are quite
tasty but if youre in a hurry you might be better off hitting the 5 salad bar. If youve got children you can even
leave them with a qualified babysitter in the kids room.
QC-4, Trbatas 41/43, tel. (+371) 20 26 86 86, www.
restaurantkid.lv. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (5 - 9). TAB
KILIMANJARO
Although African culture and cuisine couldnt be more
different from the lifestyle and cooking found in the Latvian capital, Kilimanjaro is a brave attempt to bring some
sunshine from that exotic continent to Riga. The refined
interior of beige walls and cushioned wicker chairs are
spruced up with original African art including carved
wooden statues and masks as well as colourful paintings.
In case youre wondering, you wont have to eat with your
hands here as is the custom in East Africa. This place serves
exquisite South African-style cuisine from seafood and
beef to more unusual dishes like grilled ostrich fillet, Nile
perch and even an expensive crocodile steak best enjoyed
with a tasty glass of Pinotage. Latvian, European and international meals are also available.QH-3, Raia bulvris 21,
tel. (+371) 27 72 44 37, www.kilimanjaro.lv. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. (14 - 22). A
MIO
This tiny restaurant has managed to squeeze several tables,
a small bar and an open-plan kitchen into a cosy space elegantly decorated with chandeliers, a number of stylish mirrors and other design elements that can best be described
as Provenal. Excellent service, dedicated chefs and great
international cuisine are the hallmarks of Mio. The days
specials are listed on the blackboard, but you can often order breakfast food well into the afternoon. Prices are by no
means cheap, but the fantastic staff, the imaginative menu
and the refined ambience are worth the expense.QC-4,
Blaumaa 15, tel. (+371) 28 14 31 39. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (6 - 15). B
MUTE
It takes quite a lot to impress us these days but Mute, or
Mouth in Latvian, did just that. At first glance it might seem
like just another trendy caf with a bright white interior and
a summer terrace, but if you venture farther into the space
youll be rewarded with a darkly coloured atrium bathed in
natural light from the glass ceiling. Sit among planted birch
trees and order fantastic cuisine cooked with locally sourced
ingredients by a team of dedicated chefs behind a glass partition. Hard-to-find Latvian microbrews are also available
as well as signature cocktails and breakfast food like eggs
benedict or Florentine is served on weekdays until 12:00 or
15:00 at the weekend.QB-5, Trbatas 63, tel. (+371) 26 00
36 36. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (8 - 18). ABW
Restaurants
Great place for meetings and parties

in the heart of Riga!
We are open
Mon-Su 12:00-23:00
Elizabetes 24, Riga, Ph. 6 709 9760
MUUSU
You cant miss the huge terrace on Alberta iela - Rigas
masterpiece of art nouveau architecture - so if you appreciate upmarket international cuisine and a good selection
of fine wine then have a seat and take in the view. The service is almost too attentive, but most people wont mind
being fawned over by attractive, smiling wait staff. The
interior is a mix of old and new with whitewashed brick
walls, chairs covered in local linens and lots of romantic
candlelight. People-watchers will no doubt appreciate the
large shop front windows. A second location in Old Riga
offers an refurbished 18th-century interior in an historic
townhouse.QB-3, Antonijas 13 (entrance from Alberta),
tel. (+371) 26 69 99 66, www.muusu.lv. Open 10:00 23:00. Also at I-2, Skru 6, tel. (+371) 25 77 25 52. (10
- 20). ABW
RESTAURANT ELEMENTS
This stylish silver, brown and white restaurant on the
ground floor of the Tallink Hotel Riga serves a variety of
healthy international cuisine prepared with local ingredients when possible. It also boasts the only open-plan
grill bar in Riga and offers a special treat for adventurous
diners. A hot volcanic rock is brought to your table and
you can cook any meat of your choosing on it under the
supervision of your server. A breakfast buffet and affordably priced lunch special are also available.QD-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 60, www.tallinkhotels.com.
Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (7 - 15).
PTAXW
SOKRATS (SOCRATES)
Just look for the peach-coloured neo-Gothic building
that looks like a castle to find this hotel restaurant serving a variety of international cuisine from upmarket versions of simple dishes like fish and chips to mussels in
curry coconut milk sauce. You can peruse the quotes of
famous philosophers on the walls while you sip a pinot
noir from its extensive wine list or have a seat outside in
the summer and enjoy the view of the park across the
street. Breakfast is served 07:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 11:00.QB-3, Elizabetes 21 (Monika Centrum Hotel), tel.
(+371) 67 03 19 17, www.centrumhotels.com. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (7 - 14). ABW
VAIRK SAULES
The sleek, yet warm and cosy interior of this restaurant
chain is cutting edge, the service is genuinely friendly and
the food is fantastic. You can choose from two separate
menus, one that specialises in Italian and international
cuisine like pizzas, homemade pastas, seafood and even
vegetarian dishes, and another that lists a variety of Asian
specialities from sushi and sashimi to tasty stir fries and
noodle dishes. The restaurant has two different entrances,
but the space on the left also provides a kids play area
for the little ones. A childrens menu is available as well
as a great daily special that includes a drink and a main
course with either a soup or a dessert.QC-4, Dzirnavu
60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28 78/(+371) 80 00 90 80, www.
vairaksaules.lv. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(6 - 12). TAS
35
Restaurants
LATVIAN CUISINE
If youre looking for something light and healthy to
eat, then youve come to the
wrong place. In truth, Rigas
dining scene offers plenty of
options for people who prefer to avoid fatty foods and
even a couple of vegetarian
restaurants, but if like most
visitors youd like to chow
down on some local cuisine
then pop your heart medication, pull out your pocket
defibrillator and get ready to get greasy.
Where to begin? Thats easy. A Latvian meal is seldom
complete without pork. Even if you order a dish without the national meat, theres a good chance that the
chef has snuck it into your food somehow, usually by
cooking other food, including vegetables, in bacon fat.
Karbonde ar kaulu (grilled pork chops), karbonde
(pork schnitzel) and ckas stilbs (pork knuckle) are all
favourites, but for more exotic pig dishes keep an eye
out for ckas ausis (pigs ears), grdenis (pigs head
stew) and ckas kjas (pigs feet). Kartupei (potatoes) are served with everything and theyre usually
either boiled, fried, boiled and then fried or mashed.
Sometimes, traditional restaurants will also offer grii
(boiled buckwheat) instead of potatoes. If in doubt,
stick with the potatoes. Kposti (cabbage) also plays
a major role in most Latvian meals. Sometimes its
served cold as a salad or hot as a side dish like skbie
kposti (sour kraut). We, however, prefer ovtie or
tovtie kposti, which is like sour kraut but sweeter
and darker in colour as its stewed longer with sugar.
Pelkie ziri (grey peas) is another side dish worth trying. Big, brownish-grey round peas are boiled and then
fried with bacon and usually served with kefrs (kefir)
or skbais krjums (sour cream).
All kinds of pickled items are also on offer at most Latvian establishments including beets, mushrooms and,
of course, cucumbers. If you see the word marints on
a menu it means that something has been marinated
in vinegar. Latvians refer to all salads as salti including
the classic local staple rosols, which is a combination
of pickled vegetables, potatoes and meat held together
with loads of majonze (mayonnaise), sinepes (mustard) and mrrutki (horseradish). Other salads are
drenched in sour cream.
Soups are usually hearty like frikadeu zupa (meatball
soup), ziru zupa (pea soup) and the Russian favourite
soanka (tangy tomato soup with potatoes, sausage,
pork kidney and pickles). Latvian seasonings seldom
stray beyond dilles (dill), imenes (caraway seeds),
sls (salt) and pipari (pepper).
ITALIAN
APERITIVO
Although most of Rigas Italian restaurants feel obligated
to serve pizza, this cosy little bistro has forsaken this
ubiquitous staple of Apennine cuisine and instead offers
a small menu of soups, salads and homemade pastas as
well as main courses like mussels, duck breast and roast
beef. Our monkfish wrapped in bacon was delicious, but
hungry patrons will have to order a starter and perhaps a
dessert as the portions are quite small. That said, the chefs
know what theyre doing and the service is excellent,
which is why its often packed at the weekend. Reserve a
seat at one of a half dozen tables or enjoy the street-side
terrace in the summer.QC-5, Stabu 30, tel. (+371) 28 34
74 28. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 15). AB
PORTOFINO
Rigas foodies know that you often have to leave the confines of Old Riga to discover the citys best restaurants and
Portofino is certainly no exception. This elegant space in
the so-called Quiet Centre of the Latvian capital is blessed
with high ceilings, huge picture windows and brick walls
that also serve as wine racks. Whether its risotto topped
with sea scallops youre after, a delicious dorado or perhaps a ribeye with porcini mushrooms, the excellent chefs
at Portofino have it covered. The Italian theme is evident
in the beautiful black and white photos on the walls and
pastas and pizzas are also available.QB-3, Auseka 7, tel.
(+371) 67 13 37 01, www.porto-fino.lv. Open 12:00 23:00. (14 - 22). A
ROSSINI
Smartly dressed wait staff greet you as you enter this red
brick restaurant that looks a bit like a wine cellar, only its
located on the ground floor of a building in Rigas trendy
embassy district. An exhaustive menu of cuisine from all
over the Apennine Peninsula is available including delicious seafood, pizzas, risotto and meat courses, but we
chose the chefs special, black squid ink pasta with scallops. The service is impeccable and although the prices
arent exactly cheap, an affordable business lunch is available on weekdays.QF-2, Dzirnavu 31 (entrance from
Antonijas), tel. (+371) 67 33 44 97, www.rossini.lv. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 20). AB
SERVICE & TIPPING

Although service at Riga restaurants has improved by
leaps and bounds over the years, you shouldnt expect
flawless service unless youre at an upmarket establishment. So, to tip or not to tip? Locals are pretty stingy
with tips, called dzeramnauda (literally drinking money),
but 10% is expected from foreigners, which isnt a bad
deal unless of course youve been ignored by an insolent
teenager at lunch, which, unfortunately, does still occur.
Restaurants
JAPANESE
KABUKI
This trendy sushi bar and Japanese restaurant is so chic
it could easily hold its own in San Francisco or New York.
Sashimi, maki and nigiri sushi as well as hand rolls are all
available as are rice noodle dishes, soups and main courses. The undecided can grab a seat in the back and pick up
whatever catches their fancy as it passes by on the conveyor belt.QC-4, Barona 14 (entrance from Elizabetes), tel.
(+371) 67 28 20 52, www.sushi.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Also on C-5, Trbatas 46 (entrance
from Martas), tel. (+371) 67 84 27 28. Open 11:00 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (9 - 17). AVS
PLANETA
Although this modern Japanese restaurant is a good choice
for dinner, youd be mad not to take advantage of its excellent daytime specials that include a wide variety of bento
and dim sum lunches with tea or coffee for only 7. You can
also create your own meal by mixing and matching different cuisine or just stick with the sushi and sashimi, which
can be enjoyed on the ground floor or upstairs where diners are afforded great views of Cathedral Square (Doma
laukums). Sake cocktails and single malt Japanese whiskey
are also availableQI-2, u 16 (entrance from Tirgou),
tel. (+371) 67 22 38 55, www.planetasushi.lv. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Also at I-3, Vau 26, tel.
(+371) 67 22 69 01. (7 - 15). JABW
TOKYO CITY
Although the sleek, Japanese minimalist interior and the
wait staff in pseudo-kimono lend this restaurant a more
formal feel, comfortable couches and flat screen TVs showing football and hockey games instantly make one want to
relax and lounge about. Traditional sushi, sashimi and hot
main courses are not exactly for the budget-minded, but
an affordable business lunch certainly are. QH-3, Barona
2, tel. (+371) 67 22 77 64, www.tokyocity.lv. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (6 - 14). AB
BUSINESS LUNCH
RESTAURANT 23/1
Located on the ground floor of one of Old Rigas most
impressive, if slightly neglected art nouveau buildings,
this cosy yet elegant restaurant serves a good selection of international dishes from the comfort of its
open-plan kitchen. Get stuck into black ink risotto, local herring or roast lamb. Despite its formal ambience,
which is only enhanced by the old-fashioned wood
panelling on the ceiling and a proper crystal chandelier, the prices are quite reasonable and the two- or
three-course daily lunch special is downright cheap
and includes bread, table water and coffee or tea.QI-2,
Kalju 23, tel. (+371) 25 45 46 56, www.231.lv. Open
09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AB
37
Restaurants
BREAKFAST
BERGS RESTAURANT
This design hotels stylish restaurant offers a daily
la carte breakfast from 07:30 - 11:00.QC-4, Elizabetes
83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.
hotelbergs.lv. Open 07:30 - 11:00. ABW
CITYDINER
This 1950s American-style diner serves blueberry
pancakes with maple syrup and a big bacon and egg
breakfast all day long.QC-4, Barona 10, tel. (+371) 25
40 10 00, www.diner.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. ASW
INDEX CAF
Fresh baguettes, pastries, sandwiches, coffee, tea
and juice.QH-3, Brvbas 32, tel. (+371) 67 28 77 18,
www.indexcafe.lv. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Fri 07:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. AS
KAVAS LAPA
A huge Latvian buffet in the train station.QD-4, Stacijas laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 07 31 11. Open 07:00
- 21:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. A
LIDO VRMANTIS
Enjoy a hearty breakfast buffet, which includes hot
meals like eggs, sausage and bacon as well as cold dishes like sliced cheese, meat, bread and fresh vegetables.
This all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet costs 4.95 and
also includes coffee and water with lemon.QC-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. (+371) 67 28 62 89, www.lido.lv. Open
09:00 - 11:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. ABS
KEBABS
COOK DOOR
The name is a bit odd and the interior of black and brown
walls and a grey floor is thoroughly boring, but this Egyptian-owned business does offer a pretty decent beef or
chicken kebab with garlic, curry or steak sauces. A small
buffet of affordable Middle Eastern rice and meatball
dishes is also available, which you can enjoy in another
room decorated with red carpeting and movie posters like
a cinema waiting room of sorts. Dr. Pepper cola can also be
bought here in cans.QB-4, Dzirnavu 51 (entrance from
Skolas). Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Closed
Sun. (3 - 4). S
FOOD BOX
After years of searching for a great kebab in Riga, weve
finally found one at Food Box. This small, casual eatery
offers delicious yet inexpensive dner kebabs, falafel and
exotic pide (a pizza of sorts) served by a young Turkish
entrepreneur. The only drawback seems to be the crowds
at lunchtime. The hot sauce here is also refreshingly spicy,
and not toned down for local palates like at other kebab
joints, and free tea is available from a community samovar.QF-2, Antonijas 6a (entrance from Pumpura), tel.
(+371) 28 20 59 98. Open 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. (3 - 6). BS
STAMBULA KEBABI
This brightly coloured kebab shop decorated with photos of Istanbul serves tasty drm and dner kebabs with
halal chicken or beef as well as falafel, pide and other
Anatolian cuisine and you can be sure that youre getting the real McCoy as its run by the same people who
own the Turkish delicatessen next door. Complete your
Near Eastern feast with an imported can of juice and a
piece of baklava. Its also open quite late at the weekend,
which is a shrewd manoeuver given its location across
the street from Rigas largest nightclub.QB-5, Brvbas
93, tel. (+371) 20 48 87 06, stambulakebabi.lv. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. S
TURKEBAB
Red conical lamps with black tassels hang from the ceiling
like giant fezzes, colour photos of whirling dervishes and
blue-tiled mosques adorn the walls and Turkish pop music
provides the soundtrack for this popular kebab shop on
two floors. Thick Turkish-style pizza by the slice, falafel and
baklava are all on the menu but most people come for the
halal chicken or beef kebabs, which are definitely tasty,
but, in our humble opinion, a bit on the small side.QI-3,
Vau 26, www.turkebab.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri
10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Also
at B-4, Brvbas 74. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00; D-4, Marijas 2. Open 08:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00; and other
locations. (3 - 5). ASW
CAFETERIAS
DELICIO
This chain of cafeterias is a cut above the rest. Not
only does it offer a big buffet of international and
Latvian favourites, but it also boasts a pasta station
where meals are cooked to order. Beer and wine are
also available, not to mention a cosy, yet stylish interior, which makes you feel like youre dining at a proper
restaurant.QF-3, Dzirnavu 49, tel. (+371) 67 28 53
97 28 06 66, delicio.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. Also at C-4, Trbatas 33/35; C-4, Marijas 23.
(2 - 6). TAS
TERRA
The owners of Terra have created a refined buffet of
healthy international cuisine served in a stylishly decorated interior of wooden walls and funky metal lamps
reminiscent of globes. Colourful modern paintings
adorn the walls and the general atmosphere is that of
a trendy cafeteria so popular in Europe these days. You
can choose from three soups such as potato leak or
cream of ginger carrot or select one of its affordable
combination meals. Beer and wine are also available
as well as soft drinks.QC-4, Blaumaa 9, tel. (+371)
67 65 00 01, www.terra-restorani.lv. Open 08:30 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7). AS
Restaurants
KOSHER
CAF LCHAIM
Located around the corner from the Jewish museum
this small caf may lack atmosphere, but all of the food it
serves is kosher. Soups, chicken and fish dishes and cheap
pita with falafel sandwiches can be had, as well as Jewish
souvenirs, books and press. The menu isnt available in Hebrew, but it is written in English.QC-4, Skolas 6 (entrance
from Dzirnavu), tel. (+371) 67 28 02 35, www.jews.lv.
Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 until sunset for the Sabbath, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. (4 - 8). XS
MEATING PLACE
Although the pearl-coloured pleather chairs, brownish
gold walls and the tiled ceiling that looks like the bottom
of a swimming pool lend this restaurant a stiff quality, the
helpful staff and the warmth from the wood-fired oven
certainly improve the ambience. If youre looking for a refined kosher meal in Riga, this is absolutely the place to go
as all of its delicious, if slightly pricey, dishes are expertly
prepared and well presented. You can order anything from
oven-baked fish and Armenian-style meat dishes to classic
tongue and chicken liver salads accompanied by a Kosher
wine or a shot of chilled vodka. Were not sure if the name
is meant to be clever or an unfortunate typo, but well give
them the benefit of the doubt.QC-5, Lpla 52, tel.
(+371) 26 68 74 69, kosheriga.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Fri, Sat. (12 - 16). A
VEGETARIAN
FAT PUMPKIN
his narrow, orange and brown bistro offers a surprisingly extensive menu of vegetarian, vegan and even
raw cuisine, which is often made with organic ingredients, hence the higher price tag. Thankfully, unlike
similar establishments the chef at the Fat Pumpkin isnt
afraid to properly season his food.QI-2, Grcinieku
30/25, tel. (+371) 27 10 09 25. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. (7 - 10). ASW
MIIT
Although its slogan coffee, bikes, food is certainly to
the point, it neglects to inform you that on weekdays
MiiT is also a vegetarian/vegan bistro thats incredibly
popular with local hipsters and affluent arty types. Just
under 5 will get you a tasty soup and a main course,
but youll have to pay extra for the excellent coffee, the
mouth-watering brownies or the Valmiermuias and
Bryuvers brews. The interior is simple, yet chic, and you
can also have your bicycle repaired in the shop behind
the bar. Bike parking is available in the courtyard behind the building.QB/C-4, Lpla 10, tel. (+371)
28 71 58 48, www.miit.lv. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Mon
07:00 - 21:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (5). ABSW
39
Restaurants
LATVIAN
ALUS ARSENLS
This classic brick cellar just off of Castle Square offers a
unique interior of low vaulted ceilings adorned with painted
fall foliage, stained glass lamps and wooden tables, benches
and chairs. The Beer Arsenal specialises in huge servings of
Latvian fare like metre-long sausages, beef tongue salad,
pigs ears stuffed with caraway cheese and its signature
oven baked pork leg for two served on a wooden platter
with a flaming torch. Naturally, a good selection of beer is
also on offer including its own light and dark microbrews.
Cheap daily specials under 5 are a bargain.QH-1, Pils laukums 4 (entrance from Arsenla), tel. (+371) 67 32 26 75,
www.alus-arsenals.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12). ABX
FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS
One of Rigas largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants,
Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend into
the depths of this huge space to find a great selection of
affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional cuisine from kotletes (a type of meatball) and grey peas with
bacon to hard-to-find country dishes like pork and pearl
barley stew. Although its a favourite among frugal students,
its also popular with anyone who appreciates good food,
drink and music under medieval brick vaulted ceilings.QI-2,
Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.lv. Open
12:00 - 04:00, Wed 12:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 07:00,
Sat 14:00 - 07:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. (3 - 7). AEB
KEY TO RIGA
Located on Cathedral Square, this large restaurant has a
huge menu of Latvian classics with cheeky names that are
often references to the legendary comedic Latvian film
Vella kalpi (The Devils Servants) about the fictional guardians of Riga who are part Three Musketeers and part Three
Stooges. Youll find everything here from grey peas, potato
pancakes and schnitzels to more exotic dishes like blood
sausage and even bulls testicles! You can also take part
in a pork knuckle eating contest and win a free beer and a
souvenir to remind you of your achievement. The interior
is a mix of the rustic and the medieval, but we liked the
wooden chandeliers with blown glass and the cowhide
benches, not to mention the expansive summer terrace.
QH-1, Doma laukums 8A, tel. (+371) 28 37 07 47, www.
keytoriga.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (7 - 14). JAEB
LIDO ALUS STA
The most central of the LIDO peoples Latvian theme restaurants has a buffet where you order your chicken or pork
shashlik and scoop up heaps of potatoes, Latvian grey
peas, sour cream and salad. Unfortunately, the annoyingly
long queues of hungry tourists have convinced its owners to raise its prices substantially, but to their credit, Alus
Sta now accepts credit cards. Have a delicious Uavas
draught beer or home-brewed LIDO ale while you wait.
QI-2, Tirgou 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 24 31, www.lido.lv.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10). ABX
LIDO LEISURE CENTER (LIDO ATPTAS CENTRS)

If Paul Bunyon built a log cabin in Latvia it would look like
this! Mr. irsons of the LIDO Empire has outdone himself
with the biggest buffet of home cookin this country has
ever seen. Enter the tremendous cellar and discover another restaurant with two bars which serve beer brewed
on the premises. Weekends are family days with various
activities for the kids including in-line skating and theres
live singing and dancing every night from 19:00. Take bus
N12 from the train station directly or tram N3, 7 or 9 to
the Atptas centrs LIDO stop and walk about 5 - 10 minutes in the direction of the huge windmill.QKrasta 76, tel.
(+371) 67 50 44 20, www.lido.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (4
- 7). TEBS
LIDO VRMANTIS
A great place to eat a huge meal for cheap, this restaurant looks like medieval Europe and interwar Latvia collided and produced a unique space decorated with ethnic symbols, stone and stained glass. Bop about to local
umm-paa-paa music and help yourself to Baltic cuisine
as well as salad and fruit bars. When it gets crowded at
lunch time, it also opens the cellar to provide more space.
If youre lucky enough to get a seat near a window on the
ground floor youll be rewarded with a great view of the
park.QC-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. (+371) 67 28 62 89, www.
lido.lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7). AS
VALMIERMUIAS ALUS
Although one of Latvias best brews is produced just
outside the northern town of Valmiera, the brewery also
has its own so-called embassy in Rigas trendy Brina
iela neighbourhood. Taste a variety of quality brews on
draught or in bottles and order tasty nouvelle Latvian cuisine from slowly-cooked pork belly with seasonal greens
to oven baked organic lamb. Locally made fruit and berry
wines are also on the menu, but bear in mind that it might
be hard to get a table on weekend evenings. The Latvian
meat platter goes perfectly with the beers and affordable
daily lunch specials are also on offer.QA-5, A. Brina 9a,
tel. (+371) 25 47 34 73, www.valmiermuiza.lv. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. (6 - 10). AB
VALTERA RESTORNS
If youre looking for a contemporary take on traditional
Latvian cuisine then look no further than this cosy restaurant spread out over the ground floor of a charming Old
Riga building erected in 1702. The small menu emphasises
seasonal local food raised or caught in Latvia from free
range chickens and fish to organic lamb and pork served
with vegetables grown on sustainable farms in the countryside. A number of Latvian berry wines and brews are
also available and the interior is bright with light furniture
and white-washed walls sparsely decorated with colourful
landscape photos.QH-1, Miesnieku 8, tel. (+371) 29 52 92
00, www.valterarestorans.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (13 - 18). JA
Restaurants
MEDIEVAL
LSTE
Tucked away in a charming Old Riga alleyway, this medieval-style restaurant is housed in a building that dates
back to the 15th century. You can order any number of
delicious dishes from classic Latvian pork knuckle, moose
meat medallions and stewed rabbit to grilled eel, quail and
lamb. For something more exotic, try the medieval feast
for four that is cooked according to recipes from 1454.
Plenty of local beer served in ceramic mugs is available
as well as Latvian wine and homemade black currant or
apple spirits. A picturesque terrace is located outside during summer.QH-1, Angliku 2, tel. (+371) 25 50 52 68.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. (10 - 17). AIB
OUTDOOR TERRACES
LABAIS KRASTS (THE RIGHT BANK)

The Right Bank is a quiet, elevated courtyard garden sandwiched between two small churches and a few flowering trees with fantastic views of the River Daugava. As if
that werent enough to peak your interest, the Csu and
Warsteiner brews are incredibly cheap by Old Riga standards. Burgers, BLTs, potato pancakes and salads can be had
as well as pork and chicken shashliks cooked on the Weber
grill outside.QH-1, Between Angliku and Pou gte.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. ABX
NARVESEN TERRACE
The Narvesen newsstand kiosk on the citys most picturesque square pours draught beer and cider, which you
can enjoy at one of six tables on Lvu laukums. Between
08:00 - 22:00 you can also buy any of the cheap beers in
its refrigerator and then drink them outside.QH-2, Lvu
laukums. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. AB
EGLE
Egle is located next to Town Hall Square and includes
seating for 1,000 guests as well as a big stage and a
traditional Latvian crafts market. You can order dozens
of different brews, not to mention homemade Latvian
apple and rhubarb wine. You can also choose from a
wide variety of international and local food from gourmet sandwiches and burgers to steaks and you can listen
to live music every evening from 20:00. The terrace offers both seating in the shade and in the sun and beers
cost between 3.20 - 4.20.QI-2, Kau 1a (by Town Hall
Square), tel. (+371) 25 50 52 68, www.spogulegle.lv.
Open 09:30 - 01:00. AEB
NEW
PLEIN AIR
If youre looking for something more refined than your
average Riga summer terrace, then Plein Air, which is essentially an outdoor upmarket restaurant and grill, is the
place to go. Enjoy a gourmet burger, a steak or perhaps
some seafood right on Lvu Square for lunch or dinner or
drop by in the evening for music and signature cocktails
in style. In keeping with the plein air theme, you can also
feast your eyes on paintings by local artists.QH-2, Zirgu
14, tel. (+371) 22 00 86 77. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 02:00. JAEB
ESPLANDE TERRACE
This is a beer garden we whole-heartedly recommend
to families. Its location in a beautiful park in the shadow
of the Orthodox Cathedral is excellent and there are a
number of childrens attractions within crying distance
of the picnic tables and chairs including a bouncy castle,
trampolines and electric cars. Order from a small food
menu or just order one of many tasty, if expensive, local
or imported draught beers including Staropramen, Medalus and Bauskas for 3.20 - 4. If youve had enough of the
suds, cocktails can also be had and portable loos are only
a short walk away.QG-3, Esplande Park. Open 11:00 23:00. ABKX
ROCKABILLY HOUSE
This large beer garden on Lvu square prides itself on its
huge selection of foreign and domestic beer, its extensive
menu and its live rockabilly music concerts that take place
every day. In fact, even the wait staff dress up in rockabilly
style clothing, so drop by to see your favourite 1950s pinup girl look-alike! You can also order wine and cocktails or
even a fine cigar by the central stage, but many come here
to watch sports on a number of flat screen TVs. Its also a
prime location for people watching and its nearly always
full of boisterous patrons.QH-2, Kau 17 (Lvu laukums),
tel. (+371) 26 65 63 68. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JAEBKW
Restaurants
Angliku iela 2, Old Riga 11.00 am - 1.00 am. Ph. +371 25505268.
PIZZA
CHARLIE PIZZA
Although Charlie Pizza is a large Baltic chain of inexpensive
pizzerias where one might expect to see teenage wait staff
in silly, degrading costumes, a step inside makes one feel
as if theyve just entered an exclusive Moscow nightclub
decked out in purple crushed velvet seats, black Venetianstyle glass chandeliers, a shiny silver ceiling and faux Ionic
columns, not to mention a few flat screen TVs. You can take
your pick of dozens of pizzas and calzones, some of which
are incredibly cheap, or try a main course of pasta, schnitzels or steaks. Cocktails are also available as well as some
affordable local beers.QH-2, u 19 (Doma laukums),
tel. (+371) 27 05 19 16, www.charliepizza.lv. Open 10:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (4 - 9). ABS
PICAS MEISTARS
This excellent pizzeria is located just opposite the new Latvian National Library. The Pizza Master prides itself on baking authentic and sometimes unusual pizzas from classic
mushroom or salami to chicken curry and the Indian pizza,
which uses tomato chutney as a base. Of course, you can
also choose from dozens of other toppings which can be
enjoyed in the bright interior decorated with light wood furnishings and lots of cooking utensils. A fridge is also stocked
with fruit juices, water and local beer.QD-2, Kuu 11, tel.
(+371) 20 49 14 91, www.picustudija.lv. Open 11:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Also at B-4,
Bazncas 24, tel. (+371) 25 38 83 88. (4 - 8). ASW
Restorns Lste
PIZZA LUL
Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie served in
several popular restaurants or delivered home (order online at www.lulu.lv). The most central outlet on Blaumaa
is small and cosy, and looks a bit like a 1950s malt shop.
Ideal for pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch
or at 04:00 after a night of clubbing.QC-4, Blaumaa 5a,
tel. (+371) 80 00 58 58, www.lulu.lv. Open 24hrs. Also at
I-2, Grcinieku 7, tel. (+371) 67 86 04 04. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (3 - 5). VBS
OUR FAVOURITES
For reviews of the following venues take a look at the
index on p.98.
Bar
Krogs Aptieka or Get Smart
Breakfast
Osriss
Brunch
Charlestons
Business lunch
Restorns 23/1
Child-friendly
Vairk Saules
Cocktails
Skyline Bar, The Left Door Bar or XIII
Coffee
Art Caf Sienna or Coffee Tower
Ethnic dining
Uzbekistan
Happy hour Aussie Backpackers Pub (17:00 - 19:00)
Latvian food
Folk Club Ala or LIDO
Pub
Kiwi Bar or Moloneys
Sports bar
Optibet or Paddy Whelans
Upmarket dining Bergs, Bilbliotka No 1 or Neiburgs
43
Restaurants
RUSSIAN
UPMARKET
TRAKTIERIS
On the political stage, Russo - Latvian relations may not
be what one would call warm, but this authentic restaurant is popular with Slavs and Balts alike. Each table
is topped with an antique samovar, the wait staff wear
traditional dress and the menu includes dishes from the
entire breadth of Mother Russia. Cap it off with one of their
flavoured vodkas.QB-4, Antonijas 8, tel. (+371) 67 33 24
55, www.traktir.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12). AE
3 PAVRU RESTORNS (TAM LABAM BS AUGT)

Unlike most restaurants in the historic Jacobs Barracks in Old
Riga, this one is located above ground and provides a bright,
trendy interior with views and plenty of sunlight. Owned and
operated by three local celebrity chefs, hence the name, its
frequented by the moneyed class and serves fresh international cuisine prepared in an open-plan kitchen in the centre
of the room. Light lunches of soups and salads are served
during the day and more substantial dinners are offered after
18:00. We especially liked the lamps made of drinking glasses,
but were a bit surprised to discover that a Latvian draught
beer is cheaper than water or soft drinks. Twist our arm a little
more, why dont you?QH-2, Tora 4 (Jkaba kazarmas), tel.
(+371) 20 37 05 37, www.tamlabambusaugt.lv. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (10 - 28). ABW
SEAFOOD
ZIVJU LETE
The trendy Fish Counter has an industrial interior of old school
glass tiles and vintage hanging metal lamps illuminated by
retro light bulbs that would almost put one in mind of an old
fish packing plant were it not for the heavenly aroma of sizzling seafood and the soothing sound of jazz. Take a look at
the days menu on the wall by the counter that includes fresh
fish from dorado and salmon to scallops, mussels and prawns
just to name a few dishes. A decent wine list is also available,
not to mention one of Latvias best beers, Valmiermuias.QC4, Dzirnavu 72, tel. (+371) 27 18 96 85. Open 09:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (7 - 14). A
STEAK HOUSES
STEIKU HAOSS (STEAK CHAOS)
Europeans often make fun of Americans but for some
reason they just cant get enough of their culture. If you
like thick, juicy steaks with giant Idaho baked potatoes,
wait staff in what look like line dancing outfits, then walk
through the swinging saloon doors and get ready for a
feast. The servings are impressive, but bear in mind that
the prices are also Texas-sized.QI-2, Audju 2, tel. (+371)
67 22 56 99, www.steikuhaoss.lv. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
Also on H-2, Meistaru 25, tel. (+371) 67 22 24 19. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00; C-4, Trbatas 41/43,
tel. (+371) 67 27 27 07. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00. (14 - 22). AEB
THAI
NEW
THAI STATION
You wont find portraits of King Bhumibol or pictures of
floating markets at this sleek orange-coloured restaurant,
which is illuminated by industrial lamps hanging from the
ceiling as well as natural light from large windows on two
sides. The extensive menu of Thai cuisine, which is brought
to your table by friendly staff, is accompanied by a photo
album of each dish so you know exactly what to expect.
Although everything looks tasty, we recommend the crispy
duck with green curry or one of its large soups as a main
course.QH-2, Vau 19, tel. (+371) 67 88 01 52, www.
thaistation.eu. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Thu 11:30 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JABSW
3 PRR RESTORNS
Rigas most renowned chefs have created yet another cooperative effort that has been given an unusual name. The
ancient Scandinavian rune for the number three supposedly symbolises the foundation of a proper restaurant: the
trinity of the chef, the wait staff and the sommelier. Even if
that does sound a bit haughty, the impressive team manning the ovens and frying pans have the goods to back up
their claims. Dine on delicious modern takes on international cuisine in a grey, minimalist interior whose floor-toceiling windows allow passers-by to see inside and wish
they were you.QH/I-2, Kalju 3, tel. (+371) 26 66 00 60,
www.restaurant3.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14 - 20). A
BERGS RESTAURANT
Possibly the best restaurant in Riga, Bergs never disappoints. With a stylish interior that looks like it was ripped
out of the pages of Architectural Digest and an impressive
menu of haute cuisine cooked with local ingredients, its
guaranteed to make your fine dining experience a memorable one. Special three- and five-course meals prepared
by chef Nauris Jakuko are also available. Breakfast is
served daily from 07:30 - 11:00 and brunch is available on
Saturdays and Sundays from 12:00 - 16:00.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.
hotelbergs.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
(25 - 65). ABW
BIBLIOTKA NO 1 RESTORNS
If youre looking for refined European cuisine in an elegant,
yet modern setting on two floors with fantastic views of
Vrmanes Park, there is no better option than Library No.1.
The interior is decorated with shelves full of books, an
entire wall of wine, funky booths framed by lots of miniature pillows, wooden columns and huge overhead lamps.
The menu is seasonal and often includes anything from
scallops and oysters to nouvelle Latvian cuisine like slowcooked pork belly with spiced barley. Fresh-cut flowers on
each table complete the ambience.QG-3, Trbatas 2, tel.
(+371) 20 22 50 00, www.restoransbiblioteka.lv. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (15 - 26). AB
Restaurants
KOLONDE. OUR STORIES

You couldnt ask for a more perfect location. Housed in an
historic building surrounded by ionic columns, Kolonde
offers postcard quality views of the Freedom Monument
and the Laima Clock as well as the National Opera and its
gardens. The menu, which provides colourful photos of
each dish, specialises in gourmet Latvian and international
cuisine, which are prepared in the open plan kitchen by
the entrance. An early breakfast is also available not to
mention Latvian beer and cider and an extensive drinks
list that places an emphasis on Italian wines. Try the roast
pork belly with pearl barley, green peas and sweet sauerkraut served in an iron skillet.QH-3, Brvbas bulvris 26,
tel. (+371) 26 60 88 82, www.kolonade.lv. Open 07:30
- 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. (10 - 18). JABW
NEIBURGS
One of Rigas finest art nouveau buildings is home to a
stylish, upmarket restaurant offering both international
and Latvian-style cuisine for surprisingly reasonable
prices. Inside youll find grey walls covered by periodic art
exhibitions, light parquet floors and spider-like chandeliers made from black reading lamps. Order salads, pasta,
Australian steaks, Scottish salmon, local trout, huge turkey
burgers or affordable lunch specials in a refined setting
on a bustling cobblestone street flanked by bars and cafs.QI-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55 44, www.
neiburgs.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (10 - 22). AB
PIRAMDA
This elegant restaurant housed in a glass pyramid has been
dubbed the little Louvre by the local press. Its impressive
international menu is guaranteed to satisfy even the most
demanding gourmet. Breakfast buffet from 06:30 - 10:30,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00 for 18; two- and three-course business lunch weekdays from 12:00 - 15:00 for 10 and 14, respectively. It also offers great views of the park.QG-3, Reimersa 1 (Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 09
33 33, www.restaurantpiramida.lv. Open 18:00 - 23:00,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30). ABW
RESTAURANT BELLEVUE
Located on the 11th floor of the Bellevue Park Hotel Riga,
this elegant restaurant wasnt exaggerating when it called
itself Bellevue. Floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides afford diners spectacular views of the adjacent park as well
as Old Riga and the city centre across the river. Patrons
can expect sophisticated surroundings and service, not to
mention gourmet cuisine with a pronounced emphasis on
seafood. If youd like a little bit of everything, then try one of
the chefs set menus.QE-1, Slokas 1 (Bellevue Park Hotel
Riga), tel. (+371) 67 06 90 40, www.restaurantbellevue.
lv. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (20 - 27). AW
Hungry for more?

45
Nightlife
Rigas nightlife scene has had its ups and downs over the
years, but, thankfully, neighbourhood pubs are still thriving and many clubs are once again open until the last paying customer leaves. Sadly many bars still close their doors
before midnight on weeknights and some strip clubs and
late-night bars are still out to scam tourists, so take those
beer goggles off and be vigilant.
SYMBOL KEY
BARS
J Old town location B Outside seating
ARISTDS
This fun alternative bar and club is located in the bowels
of what used to be the old Riga Balsam factory not from
the citys best hipster cafs and pubs on Miera and Brina
streets. Friendly staff are happy to pour you a beer, herbal
tea or cocktails in a number of different rooms, each with
its own style and character. Cinema and DJ nights are held
in the big hall downstairs, but you can also grab a seat in
the more private room that looks like something between
a laboratory and a morgue. QB-5, Aristda Brina 7, tel.
(+371) 29 52 92 38. Open Thu 20:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 21:00
- 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
X Smoking section
CABO CAFE
Not unlike its namesake, Cabo is a laid back caf frequented
by windsurfers during the day and wealthy Meaparks residents with money to burn at night. Its excellent location on
the shore of Lake ezers ensures beautiful views year-round
and its affordable drinks and experienced DJs guarantee wild
parties at the weekend. A surprisingly cheap menu of inexpensive international food is served from 12:00 - 22:00, but
you can also just pop by for a Belgian brew or a strong cocktail
by the beach. QAnnas Sakses 19a, tel. (+371) 28 63 95 56,
www.cabo.lv. Open 11:00 - 22:00. AB
CHOMSKY
Is this the Delta house? Walk inside Chomsky and you half
expect a toga-wearing John Belushi to greet you with a
beer and a belch. This old wooden building with its forlorn
interior of crumbling walls and furniture on their last legs
happens to be a favourite of local hipsters, artists and intellectuals, but if sagging couches and peeling paint doesnt
sound too appealing, you can always choose the private
courtyard in the summer. QC-5, Lpla 68. Open 16:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. B

O Casino
T Child-friendly
V Home delivery
E Live music
S Takeaway
W Wi-fi
GET SMART CAF
Were it not for the turquoise walls, the movie posters on
the bar and the crowd of young hipster types lounging
about, one might think that theyve dropped by their
grannys place for a cup of tea. Retro furniture, vintage
TVs and radios, an eclectic selection of streamed music
and fresh flowers give this place and air of decades past.
You can get a draught Bauskas brew, cheap cocktails and
even some pastas, salads and the renowned smartburger
or drop by for the occasional wine tasting on Thursday
evenings, but we come here for a number of different local Malduguns brews in bottles.QC-5, Lpla 43/45, tel.
(+371) 67 66 31 61. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00,
Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. ABW
I LOVE YOU
Yes, it has a silly name, but I love you also happens to be
one of the coolest little bars in Old Riga. Dark wooden
chairs, plush couches, exposed brick walls and hardwood
floors create a cosy atmosphere for tasty cocktails or beers.
Housed in a building on the enticingly named Beer Brewers
Street, this bar is popular with local bohemians who appreciate good music. If youre not convinced, just drop by and
check out one of the house DJs or just take a gander at all
of the posters and set lists of bands that have played Riga.
Have a drink at the small bar, in back on one of the comfy
couches in the hidden atrium or downstairs by the toilets. A
selection of pizzas and finger food is available and you can
also play board games.QH-2, Aldaru 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 53
04, www.iloveyou.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. ABW
e rst and only traditional

Latvian folk bar in Latvia
16 local beers on tap

Live music & local cuisine
www.folkklubs.lv / +371 20237715
Peldu street 19 , Old Town

Nightlife
Food is our passion

Beer is our obsession
Music is our true love
Sports is our madness
Irish joie de vivre in Riga since 1994!

GRCINIEKU IELA 4, OLD RIGA. OPEN DAILY 11-01, FRI, SAT 11-04. WWW.PUB.LV
JAUTR LAPSA
If youre in the mood for some affordable food and drink
and a laid back atmosphere in Old Riga then the Funny Fox
is a good option for you. A huge blackboard which lists
all of the available drinks from coffee to big cocktails runs
the length of the long bar and you can sit at a number of
tables or chat with a bartender from the comfort of a stool.
Order anything from local and foreign brews to chicken
wings and fish and chips or try its lunch specials. Its also a
good place to watch sports on a number of flat screen TVs.
QI-2, Grcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 28 48 24 26, funnyfoxbar.
com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. AB
KKC (KAEPES KULTRAS CENTRS)

Although kaepes is actually weed or hemp in Latvian,
dont get your hopes up. This funky, self-proclaimed culture centre run by a guy whose last name happens to be
Kaepe is actually a local hotspot for hipsters who appreciate having drinks, listening to music and doing other
arty things in a dilapidated wooden building. Its summer
courtyard is by far its greatest asset and its usually full of
people knocking back beers on old furniture. You can also
come here for concerts and art exhibitions.QB-4, Skolas
15, tel. (+371) 29 40 44 05. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 14:00 - 05:00. EBW
KIWI BAR
Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish
pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the
Latvian capital. Friendly staff pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar
while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch
sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety of pub food from burgers, breakfasts and meat pies
to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja.QI-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 19
17, www.kiwibar.lv. Open 09:00 - 05:00. JABW
KROGS APTIEKA (PHARMACY BAR)

After presiding over a staple of the Washington DC nightlife
scene for several years, American-Latvian Kristaps Krsli
opened yet another Pharmacy Bar, but this time in the Latvian capital. Medieval brick walls, medicinal tinctures and
scales, tables embedded with capsules and pills and painted silhouettes of old-fashioned bottles on two floors are a
clever combination of old and new and the perfect backdrop for a night of cocktails and beers. That said, this hip
hangout isnt just about imbibing. Two of the citys coolest
celebrity chefs have also added a small menu of pub grub
to the pharmacys inventory, so you can grab a great meal
here every day until 22:00. The bar also provides a summer
terrace and a free CD jukebox.QH-1, Maz Miesnieku 1,
www.krogsaptieka.lv. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. JAEBX
Dozens more bars at

47
Nightlife
LIMONDE
Although we couldnt seem to find enough of our inner
teenager to appreciate the pop music emanating from
the speakers, we were bowled over, nearly literally, by the
wide array of shockingly cheap cocktails on offer, particularly the burcia, which is a Long Island ice tea served in a
litre mason jar for only 9! Limonde, which means soda or
pop in Latvian, is decorated with Soviet furniture and too
many different types of wallpaper to mention. Incredible
shot specials are also available as well as 2 for 1 cocktails
from 20:00 - 22:00.QI-2, Peldu 26, tel. (+371) 25 96 79 50,
www.barslimonade.lv. Open , Tue 17:00 - 01:00, Wed
17:00 - 03:00, Thu, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Fri 17:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. AB
LOBBY BAR
What traveller hasnt spent a little time at a lobby bar out
of sheer necessity? Unlike most reception area lounges,
the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvijas offers cutting edge design, an impressive variety of cocktails and an excellent
menu, so you might linger a little longer than just one
drink. Naturally, it also provides great people watching
opportunities as the hotel is the largest in Latvia.QF-3,
Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371)
67 77 22 22, www.radissonblu.com/latvijahotel-riga.
Open 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. ABW
NEW
NEMIERS
We enjoy simple watering holes that dont put on airs
and Nemiers (or Unrest), which refers to itself as dive bar,
certainly fits the bill. This dark industrial style space also
sports a small mezzanine above the bar that stocks plenty of top shelf booze behind a cage of sorts. The pretty
barmaid assured us, as she cast a disapproving glance
at the neighbouring club, that the bar usually plays rock
music and judging by the Motrhead and Rage Against
the Machine that emanated from the speakers, she wasnt
kidding. Order affordable cocktails or beer and cider on
draught and see why this fun space and its large summer
terrace have fast become one of our favourite hangouts.
QA-5, Brina 9a, tel. (+371) 29 78 58 30. Open 17:00 05:00. AB
OMAS BRILJANTA ISTABA
The interior is chic and retro with lots of private niches, old
couches, multi-coloured lamps and even a ceramic chandelier above the bar that looks like it was stolen from your
grannys living room. The beats emanating from the wallpapered DJ stand are as funky and bohemian as the staff
and clientele and you can get a wide variety of cocktails as
well as Czech and Latvian brews on draught. Large windows on two sides of this corner building afford patrons
great views of passers-by outside, but if you cant get a
seat down here then head upstairs for yet another bar, a
small dance floor and plenty more places to take a load off.
QI-2, Audju 7. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. JAEB
NIGHTLIFE WARNING
Riga In Your Pocket has received readers complaints
and, in some cases, horror stories about the following
places:
Ampir Kau iela (Lvu Square); Barfly Kalju 14/16;
Brilliant Club Blaumaa 9; Kruovice sporta brs
Kau iela (Lvu Square); Shot Bar Grcinieku 1 (entrance from Skru); Vna Sta - Maz Smilu 7.
SPOT KAF
This tiny shot caf and cocktail lounge offers an interior of stylish couches, hardwood floors, an exposed
brick wall and even disco balls. Order expertly poured
mixed drinks for affordable prices not to mention incredibly cheap shots around the 2 mark with hilarious,
often profane names that will get you giggling before
the alcohol even touches your tonsils. If things get too
crowded inside you can also take your drinks outside on
the lovely terrace that offers views of Riga Cathedrals
ancient gravestones across the street. Although not a
sports bar by any twist of the imagination, Spot Kaf
often shows big games on a flat screen.QH-1, Jauniela
19, tel. (+371) 26 15 17 87, spotkafe.lv. Open 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. ABW
NEW
VRPA
This cosy bar may be small, but in the summer it doubles
its size with a huge terrace overlooking Bastion Hill and
the boulevard below. A decent selection of foreign and
domestic beers is available as well as an enviable choice of
top-shelf liquor and if youre feeling a little peckish while
watching some sports on TV, you can try one of Vrpas
signature burgers or its daily lunch special. Although certainly not the manly option, we also ordered the ice cream
for dessert and had a hard time finishing it off.QG/H-2,
Z.A. Meierovica bulvris 8, tel. (+371) 27 40 60 70. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. B
VEST
Judging by the number of young bearded men in attendance here on a weeknight, one wouldnt be wrong
for thinking that Vest is one of Rigas latest hipster bars.
Everything in this brick house is painted grey from the
walls and ceiling to the concrete floor, but at least the
furniture is made of solid wood and vintage motorcycles
add a splash of colour here and there. Use the free wi-fi
while drinking an expensive Latvian microbrew, grab a
seat outside on the summer terrace or have your moustache trimmed at the in-house barber shop in the corner
called Knockout. Cocktails and gourmet coffee can also
be had as well as a small menu consisting of a couple
of soups, salads and main courses.QB-4, Stabu 1, tel.
(+371) 26 48 40 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 01:00. Closed Sun. ABW
Nightlife
BEER BARS
CLUBS
ALUS CELLE
This underground beer bar is located in a small cellar with
hardwood floors, brick walls and an unusual central pouring station that looks more like a church pulpit than a bar.
Its manned by one of the citys fiercest beer snobs who
offers nothing but the finest ales, IPAs, stouts and other
delicious brews from around the globe, not to mention a
few local beers that are deemed good enough to grace his
Beer Cell, a reference to the Belgian monks who produce
some of the worlds best brews. Dozens of beers are available in bottles as well as roughly eight draught brews and
you can also order sausage and cheese plates if you get
hungry.QB-4, Bazncas 35, tel. (+371) 24 11 85 56. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
DEPO (DEPOT)
Underground music lovers, hip youth and over the hill
travel writers, this is the stop where you get off. Indie
groups and DJs from abroad, garage bands and an alternative crowd all co-exist happily in this club, one of the
few to sponsor rock, hardcore, heavy metal, punk, reggae
and experimental music genres. Watch the bands perform
in the basement or just have a beer on the ground floor.
QI-2, Vau 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14, www.klubsdepo.
lv. Open 17:00 - 05:00. Admission: concerts 5 - 7.
AEX
BROOKLYN PUB & WHISKEY ROOM

For a small taste of Brooklyn, walk down to the corner of
Barona and Lpla. This definitely isnt Williamsburg,
but you can order a Brooklyn lager and a dozen or so
other delicious craft brews from the States and Europe
at this cosy brown bar, which also happens to have
quite a few flat screens showing all the days sports.
Large servings of Latvian and international pub food
can also be had, not to mention an excellent selection
of whiskey.QC-5, Lpla 35, tel. (+371) 28 84 68 90.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00,
Sun 13:00 - 23:00. AB
BREW PUBS
LABIETIS
Although difficult to find as its hidden in a small courtyard
behind the popular club Piens, once you reach Labietis
youre faced with the difficult task of tasting 12 delicious
craft brews made on the premises from American-style
IPAs and English bitters to special beers made with Latvian
herbs. The brewery is clearly visible behind a glass partition and you can enjoy a tasty beer at the bar, by the windows or at an incredibly large wooden table in the middle
of the room. QA-5, Aristda Brina 9A-2, tel. (+371) 25 65
59 58, www.labietis.lv. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Mon 16:00
- 22:00, Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Thu 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. ABS
CASINOS & GAMING HALLS

OLYMPIC CASINO (OLYBET)
Located on the ground floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija, this is supposedly the biggest casino in the Baltics. A
sports bar with live betting opportunities and a 24-hour
sushi bar are also available. Its other locations specialise
in slot machines, but also have 24-hour sports bars where
you can bet on your favourite teams.QC-4, Brvbas 31
(entrance from Dzirnavu), tel. (+371) 67 82 87 77, www.
olympic-casino.com. Also at C-4, Barona 3, tel. (+371) 26
52 23 20; C-4, Marijas 12, tel. (+371) 26 32 89 49; D-4,
Marijas 2; B-5, Brvbas 90. Open 24hrs. AKW
FRIENDS
This nightclub is located in the basement of Latvias biggest hotel and conference centre. If youre 25 (the age
requirement) or over, take the stairs to the cosy cellar
decorated with little niches and comfortable couches.
Order wine, champagne or cocktails to give you the liquid courage you might need to engage in this clubs
speciality: karaoke. Yes, you dont have to go to Tokyo or
Seoul to make a fool of yourself in front of strangers or
to show off what an incredible voice you have. Choose
from over 45,000 songs in English, Swedish, Norwegian,
Spanish French, Latvian and Russian and let the crooning
begin!QC-4, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija),
tel. (+371) 29 29 94 44, www.clubfriends.lv. Open 21:00
- 06:00. AE
LA ROCCA REVOLUTION
An admission fee buys you a pass to a variety of different
clubs within the confines of a converted theatre that still
bears the tell-tale signs of its original incarnation such as
gilded decorations and ceilings as well as red velvet walls.
However, the theatre-goers of yore would doubtless be
shocked by the flashing lasers, smoke machines and gogo dancers with glitter-paint shining from their naked
thighs. Drinks are reasonably priced and if youre not into
techno or Russian pop you can try one of the other miniclubs inside.QB-5, Brvbas 96, tel. (+371) 67 50 60 30,
www.larocca.lv. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission: 5 - 7. AX
NABAKLAB
This hip music club located in a half basement is Rigas
best alternative hotspot. You can watch a live band in one
hall, dance to DJs in another, relax with a beer at the long
bar or join the crowds outside the door for a smoke and a
chat. Definitely not the place for pop music fans, this is a
bohemian student favourite. Live acts are a mixed bag so
one night you might see a local punk rock group and the
next night a Polish ska band or an electronic music evening. Did we mention that its own Nabaklab brew costs
less than 2? Lots of special drinks offers are also available.QH-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12, www.nabaklab.lv.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00,
Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission: concerts 1.50
- 5. AEBX
Nightlife
ONE ONE
Although difficult to find, this late night club is actually located in a popular creative quarter home to some of the
citys best bars and cafs. Housed in an historic yellow brick
building with high ceilings and soaring, cathedral-like windows, One One prides itself on its quality electronic music
presented by hip local DJs like Kris Hovel, but big names
such as Richy Ahmed of Hot Creations and legendary Romanian DJ Pitcu have also performed here. Bear in mind that
things dont get going here until well after midnight, but
there are plenty of other venues next door where you can
warm up.QA-5, arlotes 18A, info@oneoneriga.lv. Open
Fri, Sat 23:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Admission: men 5, women 3. AE
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
PIENS (MILK)
Located in a renovated 19th-century brewery on the edge
of the city centre, this self-proclaimed sofa bar is hard to
find and thats the way the owners like it. Those in the
know know that this is one of Rigas hottest cocktail bars
and many dont mind queuing up at the weekend to sit on
one of many couches that are each completely different in
style from your grandmas sofa to one youd expect to see
in your doctors waiting room. With two large terraces and
a funky, eclectic interior, colourful, hip and laid-back Milk is
hard to beat. That said, if its busy at the weekend only Latvians are usually allowed entrance.QA-5, Aristida Brina
9, tel. (+371) 66 01 63 00, www.piens.nu. Open 12:00 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. AB
LABI
For nearly 20 years this chain of sex shops has offered
private video booths, live strip shows and a huge selection of films, sex toys and other gear to spice up
ones love life. Unlike many clubs that are out to rip
you off in Riga, Labi provides professional staff and
decent prices should you be one of this planets many
financially challenged lonely males. Splurge on some
live interactive erotic entertainment for around 50 or
spend much less on a peep show.QC-5, Lpla 47,
tel. (+371) 67 28 61 15, www.labi.tev.lv. Open 24hrs.
Also at C-4, A. Kalnia 8. Open 24hrs; B-5, Brvbas
98; Lpla 61. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AD
JOCKEY CLUB
The Scandinavian-owned Jockey Club has provided
adult entertainment for Rigas citizens and visitors
since the mid-1990s. Naked ladies practice their trade
every 20 to 30 minutes, but fully clothed women
dance around a pole for your amusement between
shows. A fulll stocked bar is of course available, but
private dances from incredibly beautiful women
seem to be the major draw. An expat favourite.QF-3,
Elizabetes 49, tel. (+371) 67 22 88 44, www.jockey.lv.
Open 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 15. A
51
Nightlife
LOST ISLAND
If you appreciate good cocktails while smoking a shisha,
then fight your instinct to visit one of the myriad cafs and
bars on Antonijas iela and give Lost Island, which is just
around the corner, a chance. A stylish interior of lighting
fixtures made of old bourbon decanters, brick walls covered in pastel drawings and coffee tables made of thick
slabs of wood await you as do affordable mixed drinks (5
- 7) including a Mai Tai served in a proper Tiki mug that
will knock you on your derrire. A hookah will run you between 16 - 18.QB-3/4, Dzirnavu 30, tel. (+371) 26 30 88
28, www.lostislandbar.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 01:00. AXW
SKYLINE BAR
If youre looking to elevate your mood simply take the
glass lift to the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and have a drink at the Skyline Bar. Not only does
it offer a trendy interior full of stylish couches and cosy
niches, but also the most incredible views of Riga youll
ever see. Order one of dozens of classic cocktails, listen to
a live DJ and take in the biggest city in the Baltics on the
other side of the floor-to-ceiling windows. Even though
it can be difficult to get a coveted table with a view of
Old Riga, the view of other patrons is often even better.
QF-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija - 26th
floor), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 82, www.skylinebar.lv. Open
16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00.
Admission: Fri - Sun 3. AEXW
PINUP BAR
This dark grey cocktail bar is the latest place to take up residency on picturesque Pils Square. Its hip staff take a while
to mix up a drink, but the finished product is worth the
wait and, given its impressive alcohol content, will probably
have you posing for your own pin-up photo in no time. Sit
at one of the tables and order a classic negroni or an old
fashioned smothered in maple foam. The industrial-style
interior of functional pipes and light fixtures extends to the
bar, which would look like a cage were it not for the hanging metal buckets of fresh herbs.QH-1, Pils 7, tel. (+371) 27
51 39 42, www.pinupbar.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAW
STAR LOUNGE
The name is certainly in keeping with the Einstein theme
of this stylish four-star hotel, but perhaps its also due to
the fact that everyones much closer to heavenly bodies
on the 11th floor. In any event, youre guaranteed fantastic
views from several stylish couches and a wide selection
of cocktails, which arent cheap given the establishments
elevated position, but tasty nonetheless. A wonderful
outdoor terrace is also available for fearless drinkers and a
small menu of appetisers and mains courses can come in
handy after a few drinks.QB-4, Dzirnavu 33 (Albert Hotel
- 11th floor), tel. (+371) 67 14 27 49, www.alberthotel.lv.
Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. AB
COCKTAILS
Nightlife
TEQUILA BOOM
This little place gets packed on the weekends with loud
and happy youngsters. Although weve had enough experience with the Mexican national hooch to stay away
from it, you might be youthful enough to throw caution
to the wind. Shots of tequila are brought out on a metal
plate with a nifty bicycle bell attached to let the bartender
know when your drinks are running low. Also serves TexMex-style food.QH-1, Maz Pils 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 70
06, www.tequilaboom.lv. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. ABX
THE LEFT DOOR BAR
If the number of cocktail bars a city has is an accurate
barometer of the local economy, then Riga must be doing fairly well as yet another establishment specialising
in mixed drinks has opened its doors (or at least the left
one) on posh Antonijas iela. You can expect top shelf liquor and homemade syrups in your drinks here, which
will cost you roughly 8. We enjoyed the old fashioned
with bacon-infused bourbon served in a tiki mug, but
you might try a blackberry toddy on a cold day or a
ginger Collins to cool down. Sip your cocktail in one of
the candlelit window niches or take a seat on one of the
couches in the lounge hidden behind the bar. A small
menu of starters and mains is also available.QB-4, Antonijas 12, tel. (+371) 67 80 64 09. Open 16:00 - 24:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. AW
XIII
If people can afford to pay between 10 - 13 for cocktails,
then maybe the financial crisis truly has ended in Riga. This
exclusive little lounge serves signature cocktails by experienced bow-tied staff and if youre lucky you might even
spot the owner, international footballer Kaspars Gorks who
appears to have named the bar after his number 13 national
team jersey. We tried the Lavender Collins with gin, lavender syrup and early grey soda and were not disappointed. A
small menu of refined food is also available, but olives and
gourmet crisps are complimentary. Despite the posh atmosphere the staff were surprisingly friendly.QB-3, Strlnieku
1a, tel. (+371) 26 76 13 13, bar13.lv. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
GAY RIGA
GOLDEN
Golden doesnt promote itself much as a gay club from
the outside, but the flamboyant bartenders do a pretty
good job of convincing you just in case you didnt get
the hint coming in. After navigating corridors and staircases for a time, youll find a stylish interior, as one might
expect, where patrons can sit at the bar in the atrium
or relax in the smokers lounge. Thankfully, it doesnt
have that sleazy vibe that some gay clubs tend to exude.
QC-5, ertrdes 33/35, tel. (+371) 25 50 50 50, www.
mygoldenclub.com. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 23:00
- 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
53
Nightlife
A GUIDE FOR BEER SNOBS
When in a foreign land we always try to wet our whistle with a local brew, but since were card carrying beer
snobs this isnt always an easy task. After all, we dont
want to waste our time on mass-produced pilsners and
boring lagers. If youre of a similar mind then here are
a few tips on where to get a good Latvian brew that
wont make you hurl (at least not after just one).
If youre in the old town then head over to Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs, which may be hard to pronounce,
but serves roughly 20 Latvian beers including delicious
offerings by the Malduguns brewery like Snslde a
kind of dark IPA that has quickly become our favourite local brew. On the other end of town youll find the
Aussie Backpackers Pub, which has a special 14-beer
sampler that will give you a crash course in Latvian
beer. Try the Kaepju alus (cannabis beer) by Iuciems.
It also has great brews by Coopers as well as some
lesser offerings from Down Under like VB. Outside of
the old town, at the hipster caf Trusis youll find some
of Latvias best microbrews on draught and in bottles.
However, the main destination for all beer snobs in
Riga has to be the Valdemra Pasa, which is home
to both the Labietis craft brewery and the so-called
embassy of the Valmiermuia brewery. Labietis is
constantly experimenting with new recipes that use
unusual ingredients such as local herbs and spices.
Although we usually order the Three Indians IPA or the
Virsaitis IPA other brews like the Cherry Witch, Tapeworm
Killer and the Beekeepers Widow have also piqued our
curiosity. The Valmiermuia brewery in northern Latvia
has been producing quality beer for years now and can
hardly be called a craft brewer these days, but they
do pour their latest creations at this embassy. It also
magnanimously sells beer by smaller boutique brewers like Malduguns here. Try whatevevers on draught
or the Za bise (Green Shotgun) made with American
Cascade hops.
If youd like to buy some interesting brews for the
road then we recommend Alus Celle on Bazncas,
where you can also enjoy a brew on the premises, or
Beerfox/Callous Alus on Stabu that also specialises in
quality craft brews from around the globe.
LIVE MUSIC
ETRI BALTI KREKLI
Ultra-Latvians raised on folk songs and beer find their way
to this club when they want to hear nothing but familiar
rock and quality live performances. Bring a well-versed native to point out famous writers and artists, who often find
inspiration under the brick ceiling. White shirts arent required, but no matter how much you smile at the bouncer,
you wont get in wearing trainers.QI-3, Vecpilstas 12,
tel. (+371) 67 21 38 85, www.krekli.lv. Open 22:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission:
2 - 5. AEX
FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS
One of Rigas largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants,
Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend
into the depths of this huge space to find a great selection of affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional cuisine and an ever-changing line-up of folk bands
guaranteed to get you moving. Although its a favourite
among frugal students, its also popular with anyone who
appreciates good food, drink and music under medieval
brick vaulted ceilings.QI-2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69
14, www.folkklubs.lv. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Wed 12:00 03:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00
- 01:00. AE
NIGHTLIFE TOURS
TRAVEL 2 RIGA
This experienced company has been arranging special
events, tours and excursions for Rigas guests since 2005.
Travel2Riga offers low-key or VIP nightlife tours as well as
activities like AK47 shooting, go-karting, sailing, paintball,
zorb football, bungee jumping and even bobsleighing just
to name a few.QI-2, Tirgou 10, tel. (+371) 29 22 83 10,
www.travel2riga.com. A
POOL & BILLIARDS

KLONDAIKA
Lots of pool tables for roughly 6/hour.QD-4, Merea 3,
tel. (+371) 67 22 16 40, www.klondaika.lv. Open 09:00
- 04:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. Also at C-5, Matsa 43, tel. (+371)
67 27 50 29. Open 10:00 - 04:00; C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel.
(+371) 67 28 63 80. Open 24hrs. PAXW
NB
Dozens of pool, billiard and snooker tables for 6/hour and
relatively cheap drinks.QH-2, u 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 63 51,
www.nb.lv/special-offers. Also on C-5, aka 38a (entrance
from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 28 44 06. Open 24hrs. AX
VICTORY PUB
A pool table is available in the coveted smoking room, which
also offers comfy couches and a TV.QI-2, Tirgou 10, tel.
(+371) 29 22 83 10, www.victorypub.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Thu, Sun 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. AX
Nightlife
PUBS
AUSSIE BACKPACKERS PUB
Rigas first Aussie pub provides plenty of authentic down
under atmosphere but thankfully without any of the usual
trappings of stuffed koalas or, God forbid, any portraits of
Paul Hogan. Spread out across three floors, the pub offers
plenty of tasty and cheap local beers on draught as well as
Australias best craft brew, Coopers, in bottles and all are
served from a bar thats actually an old VW combi van. If
youre feeling really nostalgic you can even order a VB. Fun
raffles and lotteries are held often and you can also participate in beer pong and sumo nights. If the cheap happy
hour prices (17:00 - 19:00 every day!) are too much for you
to handle you can always crash at its hostel upstairs. No
menu is available, but you can bring in food from one of
a dozen nearby cafs and fast food joints.QI-3, Vau 43,
tel. (+371) 67 22 34 06, www.aussiepubriga.com. Open
10:00 - 02:00. AEBW
BRLIS
Tucked away in a cellar at the far end of Trbatas is Brlis,
or Brother. Named after the amazingly cheap micro-brew
thats served here, its leopard pattern booths and fake brick
bar wont win any awards, nor will its standard menu, but its
simplicity and lack of pretension are also it strengths. Order
a sour krout soup and a cheap beer and watch a local hockey game on TV or yesterdays matches on Eurosport.QB-5,
Trbatas 101, tel. (+371) 27 88 22 22, www.bralis.lv. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
LIDOJO VARDE (THE FLYING FROG)

A long-time staple in the city, this three-roomed cellar
hangout is filled with more than just frogs though
there are lots of them, even in the bathrooms. Build your
own burger, chow on unparalleled chicken wings, or go
healthy with grilled dishes and salads. Embassy workers
and other expats in the area come in droves for lunch,
dinner and cocktails or pints of Guinness with their colleagues after quitting time. It also has one of the best
summer terraces on this popular street full of cafs.QB3, Elizabetes 31a, tel. (+371) 67 32 11 84, www.flyingfrog.lv. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
AEBX
MOLONEYS PUB
Moloneys Pub always seems to be full of locals and tourists knocking back beers and watching English football
on big flat screen TVs. You can expect plenty of space,
hardwood floors, Irish decorations and lots of foreign
and domestic brews on draught from Guinness and
Kilkenny to Leffe and local Madonas as well as a full menu
of pub food from tasty burgers to a big Irish breakfast. A
digital jukebox hangs from a wall should you crave your
favourite tunes in between matches and you can smoke
in Moloneys private courtyard. Live music, a happy
hour and loads of cheap drink specials are also available.QH-2, Vgnera 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 87 06, www.
moloneyspub.com. Open 12:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. AEBX
55
Nightlife
SPORTS BARS
STUDENT BARS
OPTIBET SPORTS BAR

This huge sports bar on three floors not only offers a
modern interior with loads of space for you and your
friends, but you can also legally bet on all of the live action shown on countless TVs including massive projector
screens on the first and second floors. An affordable menu
of omelettes, burgers, chicken wings, ribs and pastas is an
added bonus and although the beer selection could be
a bit more imaginative, were certainly not going to complain about a 3 half liter of Hoegaarden or a local Mtava
brew for only 1.90! An outdoor terrace is also available
upstairs.QB-5, Barona 108, tel. (+371) 67 27 38 66, www.
optibetsportabars.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 01:00. AB
LA BELLE POQUE (FRANU BRS)

An unusual mix of teenage boys and girls and curious foreigners congregate in this cellar bar to take advantage of
the incredibly cheap beer on draught. Although it often
looks like a mix between a high school dance and an allnight rave with scant lighting and lots of bodily contact,
the barmen/chaperones encourage mingling with shots
of Absinthe and other hard alcohol.QI-2, Maz Jaunavu
8 (entrance from Maz Montu), tel. (+371) 67 22 03 53,
thefrenchbar.lv. Open 17:00 - 06:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00
- 07:00. A
PADDY WHELANS IRISH PUB & SPORTS BAR

Although its considered a traditional Irish pub its also a
sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life - namely
football and formula one. On the ground floor you can
expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different
matches, while upstairs youll find a cosier atmosphere
with loads of memorabilia on the walls including a portrait
of Pierluigi Collina. In addition to the usual Irish and international pub food, Paddys also offers a menu of authentic
Indian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor.QI-2, Grcinieku
4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, www.pub.lv. Open 11:30 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00. AEBXS
ZAPTE (JAM)
Tucked away on a small, winding Old Riga street, Zapte is
a place for people who like to drink cheaply and who like
to drink a lot. In fact, its promotional poster states that size
does matter and that patrons should choose the proper
volume of their drinks and not be wimps. You and your
friends can show off your imbibing prowess by ordering
the 3 litre cocktail, but most people seem to drink cheap
beer and shots like the Occupation Museum (Riga Balzams,
Jgermeister and vodka). The simple interior doesnt offer
much decoration apart from some photos, paintings and
a bicycle on the wall, but most people dont come here
for the dcor.QI-2, Maz Montu 5, tel. (+371) 27 49 77
95, www.krogszapte.lv. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu
17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. AW
Nightlife
WINE BARS
CHECK POINT
Although we cant explain the connection between Portuguese wine and the legendary Checkpoint Charlie of Cold
War fame, we can say that Riga has another good wine
bar to visit. You can order salads, wraps and huge desserts
with your glass of port, muscatel or vinho verde or you can
smoke a pricey hookah with a tasty Portuguese red. Comfortable chairs are available on two floors as are giant black
and white photos of the former Berlin landmark, President
Kennedy and other dignitaries of the day.QB-4, Jeruzalemes 10, tel. (+371) 67 68 72 40. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. ASW
DVINE
Banish all images of typical wine bars where scruffy
men sit and smoke at wooden tables stained with the
ghosts of drinks past. Sleek, modern Dvine is located on
the second floor of the cutting-edge glass and metal arrow jutting out of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija. Snack
on Spanish tapas, try its gourmet burger or splurge on
oysters followed by surf n turf. If youre not hungry you
can just sip wine by the glass, half-bottle or bottle, but
if youre famished then drop by for its all-you-can-eat
tapas evenings on Friday nights.QF-3, Elizabetes 55
(Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 17,
www.dvinebar.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. ABW
MIDNIGHT MUNCHIES
FONTAINE DELISNACK RIGA
This cheap slow fast food joint serves up tasty
burgers, burritos and pizzas, all cooked to order,
plenty of space and friendly service. Order huge
burgers served in wax paper with a side of fries and
a local Trvetes brew in a laid-back Bohemian atmosphere in Old Riga.QI-2, Tetra 2, tel. (+371) 67 25
02 50, www.fontaineriga.lv. Open 24hrs. Also at
A-5, A. Brina 9a, tel. (+371) 28 44 14 11. (3 - 5).
AVBSW
KLONDAIKA TEX-MEX
The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too
many westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax
outside in one of the best summer courtyards the
centre has to offer, head down to the slot machine
hall optimistically labelled the zelta raktuves (gold
mines) or try the saloon-style restaurant and bar
that serves food 24 hours a day. The Tex-Mex cuisine is just a couple of degrees shy of authentic, but
its tasty, filling and relatively cheap.QC-4, Dzirnavu
59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66, www.texmex.lv. Open
24hrs. (5 - 12). AB
57
Sightseeing
Whether its medieval architecture youre after or extravagant Art Nouveau buildings and 19th-century parks, Riga
has plenty of visual stimulation. Explore whats left of the
citys Soviet legacy or take a tour of Riga Cathedral (Rgas
Doms), the largest house of worship in the Baltics.
ESSENTIAL RIGA
ART NOUVEAU ARCHITECTURE
Visit the biggest gallery of Art
Nouveau architecture by Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein,
father of the illustrious filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein who was
born in Riga. Most of the buildings have now been renovated
and of particular interest is the
house at Strlnieku 4a. Built in
1905 it has since undergone
a complete facelift and is now home to the Stockholm
School of Economics in Riga. Dont miss the Riga Art Nouveau Museum at the end of Alberta iela.QB-3, Alberta 2,
2a, 4, 6, 8, 13; Elizabetes 10a & 10b; Strlnieku 4a.
LATVIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
ETNOGRFISKAIS BRVDABAS MUZEJS)
Take the trip to the north shore of Lake Jugla and youll
be rewarded with nearly 90 hectares of life as it used to
be. Farmsteads, windmills, fishing villages, churches and
other historic structures have been moved here from their
original locations throughout the Latvian countryside
and preserved for posterity. Watch craftsmen perform
various tasks or try some Latvian food and drink in the
tavern. Although the buildings and the ticket office close
at 17:00 you can wander around the grounds until 20:00
in the summer. Take bus N1 from the corner of Merea
and Trbatas to the Brvdabas muzejs stop. Its also an easy
30-minute bike ride from the centre or you can take tram
N6 to the last stop and follow the bike path the rest of the
way to the museum.QBrvbas gatve 440, tel. (+371) 67
99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: 4.27. K
RIGA CATHEDRAL (DOMA BAZNCA)
The largest place of worship in the Baltics, measuring 187
x 43m, with walls two metres thick, Riga Cathedral also has
one of the biggest organs in Europe (6,768 pipes!). It was
such a marvel in its day that Franz Liszt composed a piece
of music in its honour. The drop from Cathedral Square
(Doma laukums) to the churchs base shows how the level
of the city has risen in the 800 years since its foundations
were laid on the site of a Livonian fishing village. Although
currently undergoing renovations, its still open to the
public. Opening hours for the upcoming week are listed
at the entrance, which is now from the square and not the
main entrance. The price of the ticket also includes access
to its Romanesque cloister.QH-1, Doma laukums, tel.
(+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Admission: 3. A
ST. PETERS CHURCH (PTERBAZNCA)

First mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1209, St. Peters
was a Catholic church until 1523, when it turned Lutheran.
Its wooden tower, the highest in Europe at that time, was
destroyed several times. It first collapsed in 1666 and was
rebuilt a year later. To see how long it would last, the builders hurled a glass from the top: the more pieces the vessel
broke into, the greater the towers longevity. Alas, a pile of
straw cushioned the glass fall and the spire burnt down
one year later. Artillery fire destroyed the structure again
in 1941. In 1973 it was finally rebuilt and the glass ritual was
repeated, this time with smashing results. Take the lift to
the observation platform for spectacular views of the city.
QI-2, Skru 19, tel. (+371) 67 18 19 43, peterbaznica.
riga.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: church & tower 7.
THE MUSEUM OF THE OCCUPATION OF LATVIA
(1940 - 1991) (LATVIJAS OKUPCIJAS MUZEJS)
This museum dedicated to the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Latvia is now located in the former US embassy on
Raia bulvris. The exhibits display the atrocities committed
against the people of Latvia and the systematic destruction
of their nations sovereignty. Visitors can catch a glimpse of
the intolerable living conditions of Siberian labour camps
and see firsthand how Latvians managed to keep their spirits up in this frozen wasteland. Exhibits are available in English and Latvian, but you can also take a guided tour of the
museum in four languages. Although the original museum
building in Old Riga is being expanded, some of its exhibits are now also open to the public.QG-2, Raia bulvris 7,
tel. (+371) 67 21 27 15, www.okupacijasmuzejs.lv. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Admission: donations.
CHURCHES
AVE SOL CONCERT HALL
Built as an integral part of Rigas old citadel from 1780
- 1785, the Church of Saints Peter and Paul was erected
at the behest of Catherine the Great and was originally
meant to be a house of worship for the local garrison of
Russian troops. In fact, it remained the main church for
Orthodox Christians in the city until the gold-domed cathedral in the Esplanade Park was built in 1884. Today, it
functions as a concert hall and is easily recognised by its
baby blue colour, neoclassical style and unusual Masonic
imagery.QF-1, Citadeles 7, avesol.riga.lv.
The majestic entrance to St. Peters Church
M.Zaprauskis
Sightseeing
ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL (PAREIZTICGO
KATEDRLE)
Built between 1876 and 1884, this yellow-brick church
capped with five gilded cupolas was turned into a planetarium during the occupation but was finally returned to its congregation in 1990. The Soviets destroyed many of the churchs
ornate works of art including wall and ceiling frescoes by the
famous Russian painter Vereshchagin. Much of the cathedral
has now been restored to its former glory.QG-3, Brvbas 23,
tel. (+371) 67 21 12 16, www.pravoslavie.lv.
ST. ALEXANDER NEVSKY ORTHODOX CHURCH
(SV. ALEKSANDRA EVSKA BAZNCA)
Construction of this Classicist wooden building began in
1820 and was completed five years later. In 1862 its eclectic-style belfry was added. Yellow and round with a large
green dome, its hard to miss it on the corner of Brvbas and
Blaumaa. Inside youll find three porticoes, beautiful icons
and, unusually, a central altar in the middle of the room.QC4, Brvbas 56, tel. (+371) 67 28 32 01, www.xram.lv.
ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL (JKABA KATEDRLE)
This church beside the parliament was first mentioned in
ancient documents in 1225. In 1522, it became the first
church in Latvia to hold a Lutheran service, but during a
brief Polish occupation 60 years later it was returned to its
Catholic flock, who have held it ever since. Its also interesting to note that St. James was one of the first three churches built in Riga and unlike the Riga Cathedral and St. Peters
where mass was held in German, it held services in Latvian
until the Reformation.QH-1, Jkaba 9, tel. (+371) 67 32
64 19, www.catholic.lv/katedrale. Open 07:00 - 19:00.
The cathedral is closed 13:00 - 14:30, except Sundays.
ST. JOHNS (JA BAZNCA)
First mentioned in 1297 when it served as the chapel of a
Dominican abbey, the monastery and church were closed
during the Reformation in 1523. The building was used for
a time as the citys armoury, until it was taken over by a
Lutheran congregation in 1582. During the buildings construction two monks were bricked into the southern wall
and lived out their lives there, fed through the window
grate. In the summer months organ and vocal music concerts are held here every Saturday at 17:00, which are open
to the public.QI-2, Skru 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 40 28,
www.janabaznica.lv. Open 11:00 - 20:00 (closed during
private ceremonies such as weddings, etc.).
ST. SAVIOURS (ANGLIKU BAZNCA)
This little church commissioned by British traders living in Riga was built in 1857 on a shipload of English soil
specially imported from the UK. Consecrated in 1859, the
church was only full when British warships visited Latvia.
Transformed into a student disco during Soviet times,
it is once again a place of worship which is attended by
Rigas English-speaking expat population. Its pastor and
his dedicated flock are also renowned for their charitable
works. (Services: Sun 11:00 - English)QH-1, Angliku 2a,
tel. (+371) 67 22 22 59, www.anglicanriga.lv.
59
Sightseeing
JEWISH RIGA
CANAL & RIVER BOATS
JEWS IN LATVIA MUSEUM (EBREJI LATVJI)

Located on the third floor, this small, yet informative museum documents, in Latvian and English, the history of
Jewish life in Latvia beginning with the 18th century. Visitors can discover the important role Jews played in Latvian
society and the contributions they made to intellectual
life, the arts and even sports. The exhibits are also a moving testimony to the suffering Latvian Jews experienced
at the hands of the Nazis and Soviets.QC-4, Skolas 6, tel.
(+371) 67 28 34 84, www.jewishmuseum.lv. Open 11:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
RIGA SYNAGOGUE (PEITAV SHUL)
Built in 1905, this is the only surviving Jewish prayer house
and the main meeting place for the 12,000-strong community. Although it was used as a warehouse during the
Nazi occupation, its sacred scrolls and other treasures were
hidden and escaped destruction. It is said that the building was not burned to the ground as others had been due
to its close proximity to other houses in Old Riga.QI-2,
Peitavas 6/8, tel. (+371) 67 21 45 07, www.jews.lv. Open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
MUSEUMS
ALDARIS BEER MUSEUM (ALDARA ALUS
DARBNCA)
Latvias most iconic beer brand began its storied existence
in the middle of the 19th-century and this modern museum housed in one of its original brick buildings traces
the history of Aldaris from its founding to the current day.
Put on a white lab coat and take a stroll amongst antique
photographs, copper beer vats from the 1930s and informative displays of the hallowed brewing process. You can
also take a look at the real thing as Aldaris beers are still
brewed on the premises just behind the glass wall. Finish your experience with a brew in the lovely tasting room
that also boasts a periodic table of beer that includes an
example of every type of beer brewed around the globe.
Register for the museum at the entrance on Tvaiku. Take
tram No.5 to the Gaujienas iela stop and walk down
Gaujienas to Tvaika iela.QTvaika 44, tel. (+371) 67 21 84
44, www.beermuseum.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00
- 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 7 (includes one beer).
Head down to the Promenade for a riverboat cruise
M.Zaprauskis
Canal and riverboats begin ferrying passengers about

the city in the spring.
Canal boats You can climb
aboard a unique 100-yearold wooden launch (or a
replica) and take a one-hour
tour of the city from an unusual perspective - the Riga
Canal. You can get start your
journey at Bastion Hill and
the trip takes an hour before
it returns to your original embarkation point, but you can
get off at any of the other stops along the way between
10:00 - 20:00. Price: adults 18, children (5 - 14) 9, children under 5 free. More info at www.rigabycanal.lv.
Riverboats Take a riverboat cruise on the Daugava
and enjoy unique views of Old Riga and the left bank.
At the weekend some even travel as far as Meaparks
and Jrmala. An hour tour usually costs around 7 and
snacks and alcoholic beverages, not to mention toilets,
are also available. Choose from half a dozen ships, some
with ridiculous names like Misisipi, that depart roughly
every hour or so from I-1, 11.novembra krastmala. You
can also rent pedal boats and row boats on the Riga canal by Bastion Hill.
LAIMA CHOCOLATE MUSEUM (LAIMAS
OKOLDES MUZEJS)
Latvias largest chocolate producer has opened up a fun
interactive museum in its historic premises on Miera
Street. After registering and receiving your QR-coded admission ticket you can proceed into a number of different
exhibits that trace the long history of the company whose
traditions date back to 1870. Watch videos about the history of chocolate making or see how Laima produces some
of its most delicious treats. An adjoining Laima shop and
caf is also available.QB-5, Miera 22, tel. (+371) 66 15 47
77, www.laimasokoladesmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7, children 3 - 5.
LATVIAN PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
FOTOGRFIJAS MUZEJS)
This small museum covers the development of photography in Latvia from 1839 - 1941. View antique equipment
from the previous two centuries and the worlds largest
exhibit dedicated to the famous Latvian produced Minox
spy camera. The first floor displays black and white stills of
Latvians at work, war and play and key historic events such
as the 1905 Revolution and WWI battles. The top floor contains periodic local photo exhibitions.QI-2, Mrstau 8,
tel. (+371) 67 22 27 13, www.fotomuzejs.lv. Open 11:00
- 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission:
2.13; photos or filming 2.85.
Sightseeing
LATVIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
DZELZCEA MUZEJS)
Retrace the tracks of rail history in Latvia in this museum
run by Latvian Railways (Latvijas dzelzce). Inside the
brick hangar youll find old photographs, antiquated
machines and a few specimens of old wagons. Outside
you can look at restored Soviet diesel and electric locomotives built in Ukraine and Russia as well as a German
locomotive built in 1942 that no doubt became a spoil of
war. Dont miss the Tsarist era prison car.QE-2, Uzvaras
2/4, tel. (+371) 67 23 28 49, www.railwaymuseum.lv.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission: 1.42.
LATVIAN SPORTS MUSEUM (LATVIJAS SPORTA
MUZEJS)
This small museum housed in an historic medieval building traces the evolution of Latvian sport from the late
19th-century when cycling, swimming and wrestling
were all the rage to the present day when hockey and
other winter activities seem to dominate. Look at black
and white photos, old medals, posters from the 1930s and
some truly interesting memorabilia like world champion
Uljana Semjonovas enormous (mens US 21/EU 58) basketball shoes! An excellent colour photo exhibit is available
upstairs.QI-2, Alksnja 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 51 27, www.
sportamuzejs.lv/index.php. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 0.71.
MENTZENDORFFS HOUSE (MENCENDORFA
NAMS)
For fans of antiquity this fascinating historical house that
once belonged to a wealthy Riga merchant is a must. Restored furniture, 18th century frescoes and a true medieval
atmosphere are all here for your perusal. Not only can you
see how the medieval rich lived in their fine apartments,
but also how the servants toiled in the massive kitchen
area. Guided tours in English, German and Russian are
available for 10.QI-2, Grcinieku 18, tel. (+371) 67 21 29
51, www.mencendorfanams.com. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Open May - September 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: 1.42; photos 2.85.
MUSEUM OF PHARMACY (FARMCIJAS
MUZEJS)
The making of medicine used to be an art, judging from
the exhibit in this historic home in Old Riga. Displays of
porcelain containers, tools and century-old remedies trace
the history of pharmacology in Latvia, and the authentic
drug store brings visitors back to the 1920s. Its worth
calling ahead to book a tour, because only then will the
more obscure and even ominous aspects of prescribing
and creating medicine be explained. Many of the antique
packages and flasks contain their original contents, which
in some cases are still potent. Just because the warning
labels arent in a language you understand doesnt mean
you should try the drugs.QI-2, Vgnera 13, tel. (+371)
67 21 30 08, fm.mvm.lv/en. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission: 2.13.
61
Sightseeing
MUSEUM OF RIGAS HISTORY AND NAVIGATION (RGAS VSTURES UN KUNIECBAS
MUZEJS)
Enter this unique museum and walk up the stairs to the
first floor to discover temporary exhibitions from Latvia
and abroad, as well as art and memorabilia from the days
of the first Latvian Republic. The second floor displays
Bronze Age artefacts and medieval curiosities, such as the
sword used by Rigas executioner in the 16th century and
the mummified hand of an unlucky criminal. You can also
take a peek at Riga Cathedrals courtyard, which is also
open to the public, from upstairs.QH/I-1, Palasta 4, tel.
(+371) 67 35 66 76, www.rigamuz.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 4.27.
MUSEUM OF WAR (KARA MUZEJS)
Latvia is one of the most war-ravaged countries in Europe.
Crusader, Swedish, Polish, German and Russian armies
have all left their mark. This museum of photos and memorabilia documents the struggles of the 20th century, from
WWI and the war for independence up to and including
the Nazi and Soviet occupations of WWII. One exhibition
chronicles the development of the Latvian army from WWI
until 1940.QH-2, Smilu 20, tel. (+371) 67 22 81 47, www.
karamuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: free.
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LATVIA (LATVIJAS DABAS MUZEJS)
One of Rigas oldest museums has been renovated and
modernised in recent years with interactive exhibits, informative touch screens and learning games for the kids. The
second floor is dedicated to palaeontology and geology
with mock-ups of ancient ecosystems and fossils under
glass, while the third floor specialises in zoology with an
unparalled taxidermy collection that includes everything
from eagles to lions and even a giraffe. The fourth and
fifth floors present exhibits relating to human evolution,
marine biology, botany and entomology. An impressive
hanging skeleton of a killer whale offsets gruesome exhibits of human skulls and foetuses.QD-4, Barona 4, tel.
(+371) 67 35 60 24, www.dabasmuzejs.gov.lv. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 2.13; audio guides in
English or Russian 5.69.
The beach at Lake ezers in Meaparks
M.Zaprauskis
Lush surroundings at Bastion Hill
M.Zaprauskis
RIGA ART NOUVEAU MUSEUM

This museum is housed in an apartment where one of Latvias best art nouveau architects once lived - Konstantns
Pkns. The prolific artist and engineer who was responsible for the creation of no less than 250 buildings in Riga
also designed this impressive edifice. The historic house
was also home to the illustrious painter Janis Rozentls
and the writer Rdolfs Blaumanis. View period furniture and artwork from one of the Latvian capitals most
creative eras. QB-3, Alberta 12, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 65,
www.jugendstils.riga.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 3.50.
RIGA BOURSE ART MUSEUM (MKSLAS
MUZEJS RGAS BIRA)
The Venetian Palazzo-style former Riga Stock Exchange
from 1885 has been successfully renovated and transformed into this wonderful museum. Inside youll find an
excellent collection of 17th-century Chinese, Japanese and
Delft Blue porcelain from the Netherlands, three centuries
of silverware from the Baltics, Russia and Germany as well
as some lesser-known, but no less impressive paintings by
Dutch masters of the Golden Era. An Eastern gallery is also
available, which includes everything from Egyptian mummies to priceless Southeast Asian artefacts.QH-1, Doma
laukums 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 64 67, www.rigasbirza.lv.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2.85 - 6.40. AW
SUN MUSEUM (SAULES MUZEJS)
Iveta Graule, the museums owner and curator, began
collecting images of the sun with the purchase of a silver
necklace ornament in Portugal in 1999. Over the years her
collection grew so large that she finally decided to open
a museum to house it. View over 350 porcelain, metal,
iron, wood, papier-mch, coconut and glass wall decorations of the sun from 43 countries and six continents at
Europes only sun museum. You can also paint your own
plaster sun in the workshop, which is included in the price
of admission. Not surprisingly, the collection keeps growing as visitors donate their own sun mirrors, clocks, plates
and ceremonial masks from around the globe.QI-3, Vau
30, tel. (+371) 67 22 55 87/(+371) 29 69 04 16, www.
saulesmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults
3.56, children 2.85, children age 4 - 6 1.42. TJ
Sightseeing
PARKS & CEMETERIES
BASTION HILL (BASTEJKALNS)
This hill was created from 1857 to 1859 to replace the old
defensive sand bulwark. Within its precincts are memorial
stones to five people killed by Soviet bullets during the
January 1991 disturbances. Among the dead were camera
operators documenting the stormy events. Despite the
popular coverage of the Gulf War at the time, their footage
was shown all over the globe, much to the chagrin of the
Soviets.QG-2, Separating Old Riga from the new centre.
BROTHERS CEMETERY (BRU KAPI)
The Cemetery of Heroes is the last resting place for the
Latvian soldiers who died defending Latvia from 1915
- 1920. Built by Krlis Zle in the constructivist style of
the 1920s with white tufa, you cant miss the impressive
statue of Mother Latvia, who dominates an army of little
graves. Take tram N11 from Barona to the Bru kapi stop.
QAizsaules 1b.
ESPLANADE PARK (ESPLANDE)
The land that currently comprises the Esplande Park was
once an unkempt hill known as Senais or Kubes kalns. It was
mentioned as early as the 12th century as a staging point
for enemies to attack the area, which is why it was finally
levelled by military decree in 1784. The flattened land later
served as a parade ground for the local garrison, but was
ultimately converted into a de facto park after locals grew
accustomed to its pavilions during Rigas 700th anniversary
celebrations in 1901. Today its a popular place to stop in the
summer for childrens attractions and a cool drink. The park
includes statues of renowned writer Rainis and its lawns and
shady paths are flanked by the Orthodox Cathedral, the Latvian Art Academy and the National Art Museum.QF/G-3,
Between Elizabetes, Kalpaka, Valdemra & Brvbas.
FOREST PARK (MEAPARKS)
This was the most prosperous part of the city before the
war, as many of the beautiful, yet decaying, old houses
testify. Check out the Meaparka estrde, the open-air
auditorium where the mass concerts of the song festivals
are held, or hit the zoo. Take tram N11 from Barona to the
Meaparks stop.QMea prospekts.
VRMANE GARDEN PARK (VRMANES DRZS)
One of Rigas oldest and most popular parks was created
in the wake of a colossal error that resulted in the razing of
most of the citys wooden suburbs. The buildings outside
the walls of the old town were set to the torch in 1812 in
anticipation of Napoleons troops that never actually arrived. Wealthy burgher Anna Gertrud Whrmann donated
the land and other citizens pledged money to create the
park. Today its still a great place to play some chess with
locals, read a book, listen to free concerts at the amphitheatre or just have a picnic on the grass. A number of
restaurants and seasonal cafs are also available as well as
a large childrens playground.QC-4, Between Elizabetes,
Barona, Merea & Trbatas.
OLD RIGA WALKING TOUR

One could easily stroll about Old Rigas meandering
streets and ancient alleyways for days, but for most
travellers time is at a premium and a long journey is a
luxury few can afford. With this in mind, weve prepared
a condensed walking tour which includes many of Old
Rigas best sights.
Begin at H-3, the Freedom Monument on the
edge of Old Riga and the
famous Laima Clock. Walk
up to the top of G-2, Bastion
Hill for views and then walk
across ZA Meierovica (Basteja) until you reach H-2, the
red brick Powder Tower
and the Museum of War
next door. Next walk down Tora. The James Barracks on the right side of the street is home to many
trendy shops and cafs and remnants of H-2, the Old
City Walls are visible on the left side. Walk left through
the H-2, Swedish Gate and immediately make a right
on Troku, one of Rigas narrowest streets. Go left
then straight between H-1, St. James Church and the
Saeima (parliament).
Make a left on Klostera to find H-1, the Three
Brothers ahead. Take a peak inside to see how medieval Europeans once lived. Go right on Maz Pils to Pils
laukums where youll find H-1, Riga Castle which is
currently being renovated.
Next walk up Pils to Cathedral Square (Doma
laukums). Take a tour of H-1, Riga Cathedral, its
Romanesque cloister and the Riga Bourse Art Museum. Walk down Tirgou and take a break at one of
its many pubs, restaurants and cafs and then proceed
to Kau iela. Make another right there and walk to I-2,
the House of Blackheads, the new town hall, I-1
and the Latvian Riflemen Monument.
Next walk down Grcinieku in the opposite direction of the river to I-2, the Mentzendorff House. After a short tour of the house continue down Grcinieku
and make a left on Skru. You can take a look at I-2, St.
Johns Church on the right or walk to the entrance of
St. Peters on the left and take the lift up to the top
of the church for excellent views. On Skru youll also
find dozens of souvenir vendors. Walk into I-2, Johns
Courtyard (Ja sta) and emerge on Kalju. Go
left until you reach H-2, Livs Square (Lvu laukums)
which is home to H-2, the Great and Small Guildhalls,
the Chekov Russian Drama Theatre and the Cat
House as well as some beautiful medieval buildings.
This concludes your walking tour of Old Riga. You
can relax with a well-deserved beer at one of the summer terraces here or just do some shopping. If youd
like to see a video of this tour visit: www.inyourpocket.
com/latvia/riga.
63
Sightseeing
EDWARD STEICHEN
At the end of June Latvia bid
farewell to its EU Presidency
and passed the baton to
Luxembourg. As a tribute to
this small nation, Latvia now
hosts a retrospective exhibition of works by one of the
countrys most renowned native sons, Edward Steichen
(1879 - 1973). Some of the
famous photographers best portraits are on display
at the Arsenls Exhibition Hall (H-1, Tora 1, www.
lnmm.lv) until September 6 courtesy of the Muse
National dHistoire et dArt Luxembourg. Among the
86 photographs available at this exhibition entitled
Edward Steichen. Photography are portraits of Greta
Garbo, Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill and Theodore Roosevelt to name a few. He gained access to the
luminaries of the day as a photographer for Cond Nast,
Vanity Fair and Vogue in New York. Tickets cost 3.56.
Image: Edward Steichen. Trick with a Hat Charlie
Chaplin, New York. 1926. Silver gelatin copy. The Muse National dHistoire et dArt Luxembourg collection
2014 The Estate of Edward Steichen / Artists Rights
Society (ARS), New York
PLACES OF INTEREST
CASTLE OF LIGHT - NATIONAL LIBRARY (GAISMAS PILS - NACIONL BIBLIOTKA)
The Latvian National Library is the brainchild of AmericanLatvian architect Gunnar Birkerts, who is perhaps best
known for his creations in the United States which include
the Corning Museum of Glass in New York State and the
Law Library Building at the University of Michigan. Its
shape is a symbolic expression of the Hill of Glass and the
Castle of Light found in Latvian folklore. Legend has it that
the Castle of Light sank into an ancient lake and would
only arise from the depths when Latvians were once again
masters of their own land. The building is finally open to
the public and it hosts a variety of exhibitions and events.
QE-3, Mkusalas 3, tel. (+371) 67 80 61 10, www.lnb.lv.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
CAT HOUSE (KAU MJA)
The Cat House is named for two black felines perched on
the points of its towers. Not only did the beasts curse their
first sculptor, he fatally fell while putting them up, but their
purpose was to cause trouble. Roughly 100 years ago, the
Latvian owner of the building was excluded from the
powerful Big Guild across the road by its ethnocentric German occupants. He ordered the cats to be turned around,
backside up, as an insult to his enemies. They were turned
around after a lengthy court battle and he was eventually
admitted to the Guild.QH-2, Meistaru 10/12.
CENTRAL MARKET (CENTRLTIRGUS)

When construction was completed in 1930, Rigas Central
Market was one of the largest and most modern marketplaces on the European continent. Eighty years later, four
of the five pavilions, which were used as zeppelin hangars
during WWI, still serve their original function as meat, fish,
produce and dairy markets. The bustling atmosphere also
hasnt changed much, although most of the hawkers are
more reluctant to haggle than in the past. The markets
spill out beyond the confines of the hangars and operate
throughout the day, some longer than others. Each pavilion has slightly different opening hours so if in doubt
check its informative website.QJ-3, Centrltirgus iela,
www.centraltirgus.lv. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Sun
08:00 - 16:00.
GREAT & SMALL GUILD HALLS (LIEL & MAZ
ILDE)
During the centuries of German economic domination,
the guilds were Rigas power brokers. The former, dating
from 1384, was the home of the merchants, while the
latter held the citys artisans. These slightly different audiences are reflected in the respective usage of the buildings today: while the Great Guild is home to the Latvian
Symphony Orchestra, its smaller cousin hosts conferences
and the occasional disco. The Small Guild is also open to
the public during the day for a small admission fee.QH-2,
Amatu 6 and Amatu 5, www.gilde.lv/maza.
HOUSE OF BLACKHEADS (MELNGALVJU NAMS)
One of Rigas architectural treasures, the House of Blackheads was erected in 1344, but was embellished and
expanded in the 16th, 17th and 19th centuries. It was destroyed in 1941 and its ruins were completely demolished
by the Soviets in 1948, but it finally rose from the ashes
in the late 1990s. A striking Gothic building with a Dutch
Renaissance facade, it was used to house single members
of the merchants guild who were also notorious revellers
of their day. Its even rumoured that their parties and feasts
were often attended by royalty in disguise. Sadly, the President of Latvia has moved his offices here while Riga Castle
is being renovated, so the building is currently not open to
the public.QI-2, Rtslaukums 7, tel. (+371) 67 04 43 00,
www.melngalvjunams.lv.
Fresh produce at the Central Market
M.Zaprauskis
Sightseeing
RIGA FOR KIDS
Old Rigas ivy-covered Powder Tower
M.Zaprauskis
Eating out Finding child-friendly restaurants and cafs

in Riga can sometimes be a bit of a chore, but a few
have realised that providing a play area for children
can actually add to their bottom line. Vairk Saules
(C-4, Dzirnavu 60, www.vairaksaules.lv) offers a kids
menu and all the legos a child could ever want and
T.G.I.Fridays (I-2, Kau 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 71) offers colouring books and a kids menu. CityDiner (C-4,
Krija Barona 10, www.diner.lv) has a childrens corner, a fun interior and the best milkshakes in town and
Street Fries Kitchen (I-3, Vgnera 18, (+371) 67 22 42
79) has a small kids area as well as plenty of pancakes
and fries.
OLD CITY WALLS & SWEDISH GATE

(VECPILSTAS MRIS & ZVIEDRU VRTI)
This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifications, the rest having been progressively knocked down
because artillery made them obsolete. This fragment was
built between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored
during Soviet times, hence its rather new appearance. It
used to run between the Bishops Castle and the Castle
of the Brothers of the Sword. At the end of Aldaru, is the
Swedish Gate (Zviedru vrti), built in 1698 to celebrate the
Scandinavians occupation of the city, and the only such
structure left in Old Riga. The apartment above belonged
to the city executioner or bende, who would put a red rose
on the window ledge on the morning before a head rolled.
QH-2, At the corner of Tora and Aldaru.
Educational trips The Open-Air Ethnographic Museum (Brvbas gatve 440, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv) is
a great place for kids. Not only can children learn about
Latvian customs and rural living, but they can also see
people in period costume performing various tasks like
shaping iron at the blacksmiths. The Riga National Zoo
(www.rigazoo.lv) in Meaparks is also always a good
option and kids can paint their own plaster suns at the
Sun Museum (I-3, Vau 30, www.saulesmuzejs.lv). You
can also combine a shopping outing with some kids
fun at Zili Brnumi (C-4, Dzirnavu 67 - 6th floor, www.
zilibrinumi.lv). This fascinating childrens centre in the
Galleria Riga shopping centre offers a number of interactive exhibits that teach kids about science and the
natural world in an interesting way. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
PARLIAMENT (SAEIMA)
When the privileged descendants of the medieval Livonian Knights who colonised present-day Latvia built this imposing Renaissance-style building as their so-called Landtag in 1867, they probably didnt have the slightest inkling
that it would later serve as the parliament of an independent Latvian state. Although a devastating fire and modifications by occupying powers have left their marks on the
structure, its impressive eclectic interiors and marble stairs
still survive, but the sculpture of Wolter von Plettenberg
(1450 - 1535), one of the most memorable masters of the
Livonian Order, was replaced by a depiction of Latvias
own epic hero Lplis, the Bearslayer. You can arrange
a free guided tour of the premises at (+371) 67 08 73 53 or
ekskursijas@saeima.lv.QH-1, Jkaba 11, tel. (+371) 67 08
73 21, ekskursijas@saeima.lv, www.saeima.lv.
Just for fun Lvu Akvaparks (Jrmala, Lielupe, Viestura 24, www.akvaparks.lv) offers a wave pool, a childrens
pool, six water slides and a tubing river guaranteed to
keep the kids happy all day long. Parents can have a
drink at the swim-up cocktail bar. The giant Lido Leisure Centre (Krasta 76, www.lido.lv) also has plenty to
offer including lots of childrens attractions. Kids can
also hone their BMX or skateboarding skills at the free
open-air B-6, Grzikalns skatepark at the corner of
Prnavas and Ata streets. They can also wakeboard or
ride an inflatable tube on the water at wakeyou (right
next to the airport, www.wakeyou.lv) For bowling alleys, bicycle rental and other activities for the whole
family see Sports & Leisure.
POWDER TOWER (PULVERTORNIS)

Dating back to the beginning of the 14th century, only the
rock foundations remained after it was destroyed by invading Swedish troops in 1621. It was rebuilt in 1650 with
2.5m thick walls to protect its valuable contents inside and
was obviously successful, as nine Russian cannonballs that
hardly made a dent were later embedded in its walls by
cheeky masons. At the end of the 19th century a German
student fraternity bought the building, but today its part
of the War Museum.QH-2, Smilu 20.
65
Sightseeing
RIGA CASTLE (RGAS PILS)
Built in 1330 as a base for the Livonian Order, the castle
was destroyed several times during battles with the local
townspeople. After the Orders destruction, the various occupiers of the city housed their governors inside. Latvias
first post-Cold War president Guntis Ulmanis made it his
official office to continue the tradition begun by Latvias
interwar presidents in the 1920s and 1930s. It also housed
the National History Museum of Latvia, but tragically, a fire
broke out during renovations on June 21, 2013 and parts of
the interior were gutted. Priceless historical objects from
the museum that were stored in the basement were also
damaged or destroyed.QH-1, Pils laukums 3.
RIGA NATIONAL ZOO (RGAS ZOOLOISKAIS
DRZS)
Take a look at a wide variety of animals from around the
globe including tortoises from the Galapagos, Japanese
macaques, Bactrian camels, African zebras, lions, tigers,
giraffes and hippopotami, Asian red pandas and European bears, wolves and seals. The zoo also has a top-notch
tropical house filled with rare birds, snakes, frogs and
insects. Take tram N11 from Barona to the Meaparks
stop.QMea prospekts 1, tel. (+371) 67 51 84 09, www.
rigazoo.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 6,
children 4 - 18 years 4, free for children under four.
TOWN HALL SQUARE (RTSLAUKUMS)
Most of the medieval square was destroyed during the
last war, but has now been rebuilt with mixed results.
The reconstructed town hall on the northern side of the
square is graced with a baroque tower and a postmodern
roof and is now once again open for business. The modern
building that obscures the view of the square from Kau is
simply too ugly for words and has no place in the historic
old town. The square is also graced by a statue of Roland,
Rgas patron saint of sorts.QI-2, Rtslaukums.
UNIVERISITY OF LATVIA BOTANICAL GARDENS
(LATVIJAS UNIVERSITTES BOTNISKAIS
DRZS)
Although Latvias oldest botanical garden began its existence in a different location in 1922, the Latvian government allocated the 10h of land at its current address in
1926. Since then the gardens have flourished and today
youll find thousands of common and rare flowers, plants
and trees here as well as a pond, a huge palm house and a
butterfly house. The palm house also includes a specimen
of wollemia nobilis, an ancient tree thought to be extinct
for hundreds of millions of years until it was discovered in
a remote location in Australia in 1994. The butterfly house
is kept at a balmy temperature of 30C and 90% humidity,
so photography is challenging, but youll be able to see
plenty of these beautiful creatures with the naked eye.
Take tram No.4 from Grcinieku to the Dzirciema iela stop
and then walk back to the main entrance.QKandavas 2,
tel. (+371) 67 45 08 52, www.botanika.lu.lv. Open 09:00
- 16:30. Admission: adults 2.10, children 0.70 - 1.40
(butterfly house: adults 4.30, children 2.85).
Giraffes at the Riga National Zoo in Meaparks
M.Zaprauskis
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT (SPERU KVARTLS)

Located just behind the Central Market these beautiful
brick buildings were originally erected in the second half
of the 19th century as part of a concerted effort to keep
warehouses out of the city centre. After the massive market was created in the 1930s some of the buildings were
reconstructed, but many still retain their original functional brick architectural style. The area between Maskavas and Krasta streets has been designated an area of urban revitalisation and restaurants, bars and galleries have
opened here as a testament to its rebirth. A playground
has also been added and the waterfront next to the area
has been completely renovated and is now a favourite
spot for locals to take a stroll or to relax on a bench. QD/E4, Speru, Ppolu and Nu streets and between Maskavas, Turgeva and Krasta streets, www.spikeri.lv.
WOODEN RIGA (KOKA RGA)
Two restored wooden buildings in the Grzikalns neighbourhood make up the Wooden Riga restoration centre,
which is part community hub and part museum. Enter the
landscaped courtyard to visit the main hall, which is also
a conference room and exhibition hall that displays some
excellent examples of wooden architecture throughout
Latvia via photos and artefacts including a two-storey section of a wooden faade. Next door youll find a number of
apartments restored to how they would have looked during the tsarist, Soviet and pre-WWII eras of Latvian history.
Guided tours can also be arranged if you call ahead.QC-6,
Krsotju 12, tel. (+371) 29 23 36 98, www.kokariga.lv.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
KAYAKING IN RIGA
If youre looking for a completely different way to see the
city then these guys can help. For years now these professional kayakers have been offering tours of Rigas waterways including the Daugava river and the Riga Canal.
Although morning and day tours are fun, the night tours
are unique as Riga is one the few major cities in Europe
where this is possible. No kayaking experience is needed
and the guides will also take photos of you throughout the
tour, which is given in English, Russian or Latvian for 20/
person.QD-2, Balasta dambis 13, tel. (+371) 27 87 87 57,
laivinieks@inbox.lv, laivinieks.lv/for-tourists.
Sightseeing
SOVIET RIGA
ACADEMY OF SCIENCES (ZINTU
AKADMIJA)
This Soviet edifice is a cousin to similar statements of ugliness all over Eastern Europe and local nicknames for the
Empire State building copy include Stalins birthday cake
or the Kremlin. Most Latvians just consider themselves
lucky that the portrait of Uncle Joe that was supposed to
be a part of the facade never came to fruition. If you look
closely you can spot several hammers and sickles up top.
At a height of 65m, the 17th-floor balcony is open to the
public for a fee but only from April - September.QD-4,
Akadmijas laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 53 61, www.lza.
lv. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Observation deck: 3.56.
KGB BUILDING (STRA MJA)
A chilling local joke makes light of the infamous building
on the corner of Brvbas and Stabu streets by claiming
that its balconies were the only ones in Latvia that offered
a view of Siberia. Indeed, thousands of Latvians met their
end in the notorious Corner House or Stra mja and a
memorial outside to its victims states: During the Soviet
occupation the state security agency /KGB/ imprisoned,
tortured, killed and morally humiliated its victims in this
building. The building is now occupied by the Museum
of the Occupation of Latvia 1940 - 1991 and you can take a
guided tour of its dreaded cellars where Latvians were tortured by the KGB. You can buy tickets online at www.bilesuserviss.lv or on the premises, but tours fill up quickly so
try to book in advance. An exhibition curated by the Occupation Museum about the building is free of charge.QB-4,
Brvbas 61, tel. (+371) 27 87 56 92, okupacijasmuzejs.
lv/izstaiga-stura-maju. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Wed 12:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission: 5. Tours in
English at 10:30 except Wed 12:00.
STATUES & MONUMENTS

FREEDOM MONUMENT (BRVBAS
PIEMINEKLIS)
Milda, as she is affectionately known, was unveiled
in 1935 and is a national
shrine for Latvians. Designed by Krlis Zle, the
friezes around the base of
the sculpture depict Latvians singing, working and
fighting for their freedom,
while the three stars in the
maidens hands represent the three historical regions of
the country: Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale. Locals are
always placing flowers at the base of the monument, an
act for which people were deported to Siberia in Soviet
times. When the weather is favourable the honour guard
changes every hour on the hour from 09:00 - 18:00.QH-3,
Where Brvbas and Raia meet.
EXPLORE LATVIA
Latvia boasts dozens of ancient Crusader castles,
nearly 500km of untouched beaches, scores of manor
houses that have been converted into hotels and spas,
charming medieval towns and pristine nature reserves
that are just begging to be explored. Although many
of these attractions can be reached by public transport, if youd like to see more than one in a day, we
recommend you contact our English-speaking friend
Jnis (janisosis@inbox.lv or (+371) 29 58 04 48) who
will drive you anywhere you want to go in Latvia (or
the Baltics) for an affordable fee.
Sigulda & Turaida: only an
hour train ride from Rigas central station youll find this historic
gem perched atop a valley overlooking the meandering River
Gauja. Explore two castle ruins,
one renovated castle, a 19thcentury manor house and the largest sandstone cave
in the Baltics. Adrenalin junkies can also bungee jump
from a cable car or take a run in a summer sled on the
bobsleigh track.
Csis: located a little farther
down the same railway line, the
charming town of Csis is considered to be the most Latvian
city in the whole country and its
also the birthplace of the Latvian
flag, one of Europes oldest. Its
main attraction is its enormous Crusader castle, but
the town itself and its 12th-century church are also
picturesque and worth a visit.
Rundle Palace & Bauska:
only an hour bus ride south
of Riga youll find the town of
Bauska whose main claim to
fame is its giant castle situated
at the confluence of the Msa
and Mmele rivers. Its also a
good place from which to explore nearby Rundle
Palace, the most impressive 18th-century baroque
treasure in the Baltics and an absolute must see attraction.
Kuldga: a former Hanseatic
city and one-time capital of the
Grand Duchy of Courland, this
picturesque town is one of the
best preserved medieval cities
in Latvia. Although its imposing
castle was completely destroyed,
its 17th-century wooden buildings with terracotta
tile roofs are its main attraction as well as its historic
churches, cobblestone streets and the widest waterfall in Europe, which can be viewed from one of the
longest brick bridges on the continent.
67
Shopping
Prices of imported goods in Latvia tend to be inexplicably
high, but local crafts, food and alcohol are still relatively
cheap. Shops are scattered throughout Riga, but the highest concentration can be found in the Old Town and the
city centre. Several big, shiny shopping centres are also
available and they often come in handy on Sundays when
most small shops are closed.
ALCOHOL, BEER & TOBACCO

BEERFOX/CALLOUS ALUS
Run by an American beer enthusiast, this shops specialises
in craft brews from around the globe.QC-5, Stabu 59, tel.
(+371) 28 30 95 25. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 22:00. Closed Sun.
LATVIJAS BALZAMS
Latvijas Balzams outlets throughout the city sell over 50
different alcoholic beverages including the famous Rga
Black Balsam. Also sells Balzams t-shirts, beer, mixers,
snacks and sweets.QH-2, Vau 21, tel. (+371) 67 22 95
77, www.lbveikali.lv. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 22:00. Also at I-2, Kau 2; I-2, Audju 8; H-2, u 16;
D-4, Marijas 1; and many other locations. A
KALNCIEMS FAIR
The thoroughfare on the
other side of the Vanu
bridge is a treasure trove of
19th-century wooden architecture and although many
of these old edifices could
use some serious renovation
work, the beautiful buildings at the corner of D-1,
Melnsila and Kalnciema iela
have been lovingly restored
and now host a bustling fair
every Saturday from 10:00 - 16:00 that attracts visitors
from around Riga. Although the theme changes from
fair to fair, you can expect plenty of food and drink,
local crafts, fashion by Latvian designers and a lively
atmosphere. In the summer the Kalnciema courtyard
also hosts free concerts every Thursday from 19:00 23:00. Take bus No.53 from the National Theatre to the
Melnsila iela stop.
ANTIQUES
BOOKS
KOMISIJAS VEIKALS H & PARTNERIS

This shop lets people sell their wares here for a commission. You can find all manner of interesting items from
antiques and collectibles to mink coats, porcelain and
paintings. The Soviet toy cars in their original boxes really
caught our eye.QC-4, Trbatas 33/35, tel. (+371) 67 22
45 45. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
VISS ANTKAIS
Everything Antique is more of a warehouse than a shop.
Youll find lots of furniture and chandeliers and some interesting paintings as well as nick-nacks for your home,
not to mention old advertising posters, postcards and the
odd antique map.QD-2, Balasta dambis 3, tel. (+371) 20
04 44 30/(+371) 67 70 48 73, www.vissantikais.lv. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
VOLMAR
Paintings, religious icons, porcelain, memorabilia and
much more.QI-1, Krmu 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 78. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
JA STA
Latvias largest selection of maps and travel books, not to
mention a wide variety of In Your Pocket guides.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. (+371) 67 24 08 94, www.mapshop.lv.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
LIRA
This funky little shop sells new and used books, vinyl, CDs
and DVDs. You can also enjoy a glass of wine while you
browse through the stacks.QC-4, Bazncas 8, tel. (+371) 25
43 41 23, www.lira.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
ROBERTS BOOKS
Owned and operated by a Riga expat, this shop sells second-hand English language books. You can find anything
from romance novels to award-winning contemporary
literature.QC-4, Dzirnavu 51a, robertsbooksriga.com.
VALTERS UN RAPA
This book shop on three floorsoffers mostly Latvian and
Russian books, as well as guides like this one and some
literature in English and German.QH-3, Aspazijas 24, tel.
(+371) 67 22 74 82, www.valtersunrapa.lv. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A
CONVENIENCE STORES
Latvian delicacies at the Saturday Kalnciems Fair
M.Zaprauskis
NARVESEN
This huge chain of convenience stores sells everything
from public transport tickets and international press to
snacks, candy, coffee, hot dogs and beer.QG-3, Brvbas
32, tel. (+371) 67 28 74 02/(+371) 80 00 85 85, www.
narvesen.lv. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Also at C-4, Dzirnavu 74/76 and many
other locations. AS
Shopping
ETHNIC & EXOTIC FOOD
DON GASTRONOM
Don Gastronom sells delicious Spanish food from stuffed
olives, goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes to Serrano
ham and spicy sausages, all of which can be bought as
takeaway or enjoyed on the spot with a glass of Iberian
wine.QC-4, Barona 17, www.dongastronom.lv. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A
ELKOR FOOD & WINE
Walk through the caf on the ground floor and then head
downstairs to find this shop selling a good assortment of
gourmet food and drink.QG-3, Brvbas bulvris 19, tel.
(+371) 67 21 34 55, www.foodandwine.lv. Open 10:00
- 22:00. A
LI
This local bakery and shop sells traditional bread, biscuits
and other authentic Latvian treats.QD-4, E.BirzniekaUpa 2, tel. (+371) 26 51 85 27, www.laci.lv. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Also at J-3, Nu 7, tel.
(+371) 28 32 86 75. Open 08:00 - 17:00. A
FASHION
LAZY FRANCIS
This trendy childrens fashion boutique and studio located
in the hip Miera iela creative quarter specialises in unique
and colourful designer clothes and accessories for girls
under 13. Browse through the shop for that special dress
with a cup of coffee or tea in hand while your little princess
plays on the indoor swing.QB-5, Miera 19, tel. (+371) 25
61 16 22, www.lazyfrancis.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
PODIUM
This department store specialises in name brand fashion
such as Armani, Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Roberto Cavalli and
many more. It also sells designer furniture and accessories
for your home and kitchen. Take tram No.6 to the Rupnca
VEF stop.QBrvbas 201, tel. (+371) 67 16 55 51, www.
podium.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
RIGA FLEA MARKET

A flea market is held once
a month in Rigas revitalised Warehouse District, or
Speri (D/E-4, Maskavas 8,
www.spikeri.lv), not far from
the Central Market. The renovated brick buildings are now
home to shops, galleries and
cafs and this Saturday market where you can buy vintage clothing, antiques, vinyl records, jewellery, furniture
and other knick-knacks. The next flea markets will take
place from 11:00 - 16:00 on August 8 and September
12, 2015. Photo courtesy of Speri on Facebook
We ship worldwide
StrElnieku iela 9
(opposite the Riga Art Nouveau Museum)
FLOWERS
FLOWER MARKET
The biggest market for flowers from near and far has been
given a shiny new glass home at its usual location on
Trbatas.QG-3, Trbatas 2a. Open 24hrs.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

ART NOUVEAU RIGA
The only shop in Riga to exclusively sell art nouveau merchandise. Buy small plaster faces from Rigas most famous
facades, silk scarves with art nouveau designs, mugs,
greeting cards, books and linens. Naturally, its located at
the end of Alberta iela opposite the Riga Art Nouveau Museum.QB-3, Strlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 67 33 30 30, www.
artnouveauriga.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. A
BLACK CAT SOUVENIR SHOP
This souvenir shop sells a huge selection of Latvian gifts
from handmade linens, ceramics and wool mittens and
socks to glassware and amber as well as local arts and crafts.
Just look for the enormous cat outside.QI-2, Maz Jaunavu
8, tel. (+371) 67 22 55 87. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
CANDLE ROOM
All of the candles sold at this shop are made in Latvia. Buy
special amber candles, candles decorated with historic
lithographs of Riga or a huge variety of candles in every
shape, size and colour imaginable.QI-3, Vau 28, tel.
(+371) 29 24 51 34, svecuistaba@inbox.lv. Open 11:00
- 19:00.
69
Shopping
WHAT TO BUY IN RIGA
Amber The petrified sap isnt as plentiful as it is in
Lithuania or Kaliningrad, but it still washes up on Latvian beaches. Its sold in all souvenir shops and there
are dozens of amber stalls behind St. Peters Church, on
Vau iela behind Hotel Riga and on Lvu laukums.
Art Nouveau souvenirs Nothing screams Riga like a
screaming gargoyle. Buy Art Nouveau silk scarves, postcards, ceramic dishes, books and plaster busts based
on beautiful heads seen on the citys best early 20thcentury facades at Art Nouveau Riga (B-3, Strlnieku 9).
Honey The Latvians revere their honey (medus) like
the French do their wine and even claim that it has
healing properties so taste some for free at The Honey
Room (I-2, Pterbazncas 17. Open 10:00 - 19:00).
Local food The following can be found in any supermarket: Latvian sourdough (saldskbmaize) bread
is delicious and easily transported. Latvian smoked
cheese, carraway seed cheese and the Talsu ritulis
marinated in herbs are all classic cheeses worth taking
home. Sprats (protes) in oil, similar to sardines, are the
perfect snack to go with the Latvian vodka you bought.
Music Music is absolutely essential to Latvian life. Upe
(I-2, Vgnera 5. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun) has the best selection of Latvian folk, rock
and classical CDs in Riga.
Riga Black Balzams Originally intended as a cureall elixir, Balzams has been made in Riga since the late
18th century and is still used today to alleviate hangovers and stomach-aches and as the main ingredient
in many local cocktails. Consisting of over 24 herbal
ingredients, it looks like used motor oil and is sold in
charming ceramic jugs. Try it in coffee or currant juice.
Sweets The Laima factory in Riga has been producing delicious chocolates since 1870. They can be found
in any supermarket or at Laima shops around town.
Gotias, or little cows, are another local treat that can
be found at most supermarkets. Theyre essentially a
semi-soft sweet cream based candy made with sugar.
ELKOR GIFT SHOP

This shop sells all kinds of handmade Latvian souvenirs
from ceramics, t-shirts and jewellery to gifts by local designers such as smart phone cases and stuffed animals.
QG-3, Brvbas 21, tel. (+371) 67 21 40 77, www.elkor.
lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
RIGA GIFT SHOP
This cosy gift shop is so crammed full of interesting souvenirs that its hard to walk around without knocking something over. You can get pretty much anything here.QI-2,
Kalju 7, tel. (+371) 28 44 49 00. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A
RIIJA
All of the linen clothing, felt slippers, ceramics and other
nick-nacks sold at this upmarket design shop were created
by Latvian artists and artisans and nearly all of the items
come in varying shades of grey, beige and white.QC-4,
Trbatas 6/8, tel. (+371) 29 20 96 64, www.riija.lv. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
INTERIOR DESIGN
HENRY MOON
This elegant salon offers some of the finest names in home
accessories and interior design including Wedgwood,
Rosenthal, Villeroy & Boch and Yves Delorme, to name a
few. Youll find everything from bedding and bath towels to candleholders and tableware right in the city centre.QC-4, Blaumaa 5A (entrance from Trbatas), tel.
(+371) 67 31 17 06. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. A
VILLEROY & BOCH
The place to go in Riga for flatware and interior design
items by Villeroy & Boch.QI-2, Tetra 2, tel. (+371) 25 51
79 09, www.villeroy-boch.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
MARKETS
CENTRAL MARKET
This giant bazaar with its five huge aircraft hangars is
a truly fascinating place to visit. Buy meat, fish and produce inside or CDs, appliances and clothing outside of the
hangars for suspiciously low prices. Opening hours differ
slightly for each pavilion.QJ-3, Centrltirgus 1, tel. (+371)
67 22 99 85, www.centraltirgus.lv. Open 08:00 - 17:00.
SHOES
Old and new traditions at the Riga Harvest Festival
MZ
ELNA DOBELE
Exclusive handmade shoes designed by Elna Dobele.QH2, Vau 12, tel. (+371) 22 30 11 97, elinadobele.com.
LA BUCCIA FINE SHOES
La Buccia specialises in both womens and mens imported
Italian shoes in modern and classic styles by such brands
as Caccin, Fabi, Dibrera, Giovanni Giusti, Loretta Pettinari
and Roberto Rossi. Parking and tax-free shopping available.QB-4, Brvbas 71, tel. (+371) 67 80 95 75/(+371) 27
70 95 75, www.labuccia.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Shopping
SHOPPING CENTRES
SPECIALITY SHOPS
BERGA BAZRS
Rigas swankiest shopping courtyard offers high-end
shops, restaurants, cafs, a fitness club and a food and
antiques bazaar every second and fourth Saturday of the
month.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas 13, tel. (+371) 67
50 23 10, www.bergabazars.lv. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A
ELKOR PLAZA
This huge department store sells everything from name
brand fashion and accessories to furniture, electronics and
childrens toys. Take tram No.6 from Barona to the Rupnca
VEF stop.QBrvbas 201, tel. (+371) 67 07 07 07, www.
elkor.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GALLERIA RIGA
This new downtown shopping centre on several floors offers dozens of shops never before seen in Latvia as well as
a Rimi supermarket (08:00 - 23:00), a rooftop terrace right
in the centre of Riga and a whole floor of restaurants and
bars (10:00 - 01:00).QC-4, Dzirnavu 67, tel. (+371) 67 30
70 00, www.galleriariga.lv. Open 10:00 - 21:00. AL
BKW
SPICE
This huge shopping mall seems to grow even larger every
month. All of the usual shops are available as well as a supermarket (08:00 - 23:00), a large food court and a huge
LIDO cafeteria with a vast indoor childrens playground.
Take bus No.32 or 43 from 13.janvra iela to the Spice stop.
QLielirbes 29, tel. (+371) 67 80 72 81, www.spice.lv.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. PTALK
BUTELJONS
This funky shop creates beautiful mugs and glasses from
recycled wine, spirits and beer bottles. You can even bring
your own bottles and have them transformed into practical, sustainable art here.QB-5, Miera 10, tel. (+371) 26 32
93 08, www.buteljons.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
DE AVU
This cosy shop in Old Riga sells vintage clothing, hand
bags, jewellery and other fashion accessories as well as vinyl and other curiosities.QI-3, Vau 39, tel. (+371) 67 21
35 80, www.dezavu.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
LUMAS
LUMAS sells photographic art by roughly 200 world renowned artists at its galleries in many of the worlds most
exciting capitals including Riga.QI-2, Audju 6, tel. (+371)
67 27 27 77, www.lumas.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JA
SUPERMARKETS
STOCKMANN
The deli counter is fantastic and the meat section actually offers real cuts of beef including steaks. It also stocks
products you wont find anywhere else in Riga like Campbells soup, Stovetop stuffing and Betty Crocker cake and
brownie mix.QI-3, 13. janvra 8, www.stockmann.lv.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A
73
Sports & Leisure

Want to rent a bike or check out Rigas best golf courses?
Need directions to the closest bowling alley or are you
looking for a relaxing day in a traditional Latvian sauna?
Read on.
BICYCLE RENTAL
GANDRS
Rent a mountain bike for 9/day with a passport or driving
licence. Also rent helmets and baby chairs as well as tents
and other camping gear.QD-1, Kalnciema 28, tel. (+371)
67 61 47 75, www.gandrs.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
RIGA BIKE TOURS
Take a 2.5-hour bicycle tour of the city every day at 12:00
or 15:00 for 15 or rent one of the bikes at their office in
Old Riga for as little as 7. You can also choose a custom
bicycle tour of the Latvian capital and discover a Riga most
tourists never see. Night tours are also available as well
as cycling excursions in Jrmala and the Gauja National
Park.QI-2, Vgnera 14, tel. (+371) 28 22 57 73, www.
rigabiketours.com.
HOCKEY: DYNAMO RIGA

Spread out over a dozen time zones, the Russian Kontinental (sic) Hockey League or KHL also includes teams
from beyond the borders of the Russian Federation like
Dynamo Riga (Latvia), Jokerit Helsinki (Finland), Slovan
Bratislava (Slovakia) and Medveak Zagreb (Croatia)
to name a few. All told, 28 teams from seven nations
will compete in the 2015/2016 season. Many of the
KHL teams have adopted Soviet-era names, hence all
of the dynamos, locomotives and metallurgists. Dynamo Riga have had their ups and downs, but they
did win the first Nadezhda Cup (Cup of Hope), which
essentially means that they were the best of the worst
teams in the league. Home games take place at Arena
Riga, A-4, Skanstes 21, www.arenariga.com. Tickets
can be bought at the arena or at Bieu serviss (www.
bilesuserviss.lv) outlets. Tickets cost 5 - 86. Visit www.
dinamoriga.eu for more information. Photo by Nienke Bos
BOWLING
BOWLERO
This ultramodern entertainment centre offers 24 bowling
lanes (9 - 14 depending on time), pool tables, a bar and a
childrens room. Take bus No.53 from the Esplande stop
on Brvbas to the RMR stop.QLielirbes 27, tel. (+371) 67
80 46 00, www.bowlero.lv. Open , Mon 15:00 - 23:00,
Tue, Wed 12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. TA
ZELTA BOULINGA CENTRS
22 lanes, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool
tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/restaurant.QE-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 61 07 07, www.
zelta.lv. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00
- 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
FOOTBALL MATCHES
Latvias greatest football achievement occurred in the 2004 European Championship in Portugal
when the Latvian side had to
settle for a 0-0 draw with Germany. Since then, major victories
havent been forthcoming. More
recently, Kaspars Gorks was instrumental in helping Reading
move up from the npower league to the English Premiership. You can watch the Latvian national team take
on the Czech Republic in a Euro 2016 qualifier on September 6 at Skonto Stadium (B-4, Melngaia 1a). Tickets
can be bought at the stadium and matches are rarely
sold out. Photo by Roberts Lismanis
Upcoming fixtures at Arena Riga

August
Date Time Game
25 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. AK Bars Kazan
27 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Sverstal Cherepovets
September
23 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Medveak Zagreb
25 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Slovan Bratislava
CANOE TRIPS
AGARKALNS
A ski resort in the winter, agarkalns offers riverside camping, canoe and rafting trips and barbecue and picnic areas
just outside of the historic town of Csis in the summer.
QCsis, 90km from Riga, tel. (+371) 26 26 62 66, www.
zagarkalns.lv.
CLIMBING
MEAKAIS
Fun for both young and old, Meakais is essentially a forest recreation park where you can climb between trees,
rappel from platforms and burn some adrenalin on a zip
line. There are a number of different paths available of
varying difficulties and skill levels, but theres something
for everyone.QMeaparks, tel. (+371) 67 97 68 86, www.
kakiskalns.lv/riga. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Admission:
adults 17/3 hours, children 10/3 hours. Open May 1
- September 30.
Sports & Leisure

GOLF
GOLFS VIESTURI
A clubhouse, a bar, a putting green and nine holes from
May to October.QJaunmrupe, Viesturi 1, tel. (+371) 26
44 43 90, www.golfsviesturi.lv. A
OZO GOLF CLUB
Owned by former NHL hockey star Sandis Ozoli, Ozo
offers a clubhouse, restaurant and 18 holes from April to
October.QMlgrvja 16, tel. (+371) 67 39 43 99, www.
ozogolf.lv. A
PLAYGROUNDS
MEAPARKS PLAYGROUND
Meaparks offers two large childrens playgrounds near
one another. One is meant for toddlers, while the other is
more appropriate for older children. Kids can climb aboard
a pirate ship, try the swings or take advantage of dozens of
other obstacles and attractions.QMeaparks. T
SAUNAS
BALT PIRTS
Opened in 1908, the White Sauna is owned and operated
by an American-Latvian who happens to be a direct descendant of its founder. Both traditional Latvian and modern saunas are available as well as swimming pools, baths,
a caf and English-speaking staff. A new restaurant called
Tvaiks, or Steam, which is manned by a famous chef has
also opened its doors on the premises.QB-6, Tallinas 71,
tel. (+371) 67 27 17 33, www.baltapirts.lv. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Cashier open until one hour before closing.
SKATEPARKS
MIERA DRZS
The biggest concrete skatepark in Latvia is located in a
revitalised park in Rigas Moscow District.QD-5, Between
Katou, Kalupes, Daugavpils and Jkabpils iela.
MONSTER ENERGY PARKS
This is the biggest indoor skatepark in the Baltics. Some
times are reserved only for skaters or BMX riders, but its
usually open to all.QKrou 13a, tel. (+371) 67 56 99 30.
Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. KW
WAKEBOARDING
WAKEYOU
Only a short walk from the Riga Airport terminal youll
find a large pond, which happens to be the excellent, yet
unlikely location of a brand new two-tower wakepark.
Experts can take advantage of unique sliders, barrels and
other obstacles while beginners can learn the basics of the
sport from one of Latvias best wakeboarders. You can rent
equipment by the biggest brands like Slingshot, Mystic
and Bern for a nominal fee or bring your own gear. An hour
of fun for you and your friends will set you back only 36,
but reservations are required, so call its English-speaking
staff and set up a time. From the centre of Riga take bus
No.22 to the Miglas iela stop and walk over to the pond.
QRiga Airport, tel. (+371) 20 48 94 89, www.wakeyou.
lv. TALBW
WATER PARKS
Fun for the whole family at the wakeyou airport wakepark
LVU AKVAPARKS
Latvias largest indoor (and outdoor) water park charges
roughly 18 - 20/adult for two hours of fun, children under
six 3 - 5. A wave pool, childrens pool, outdoor pool, water
slides and other attractions are all at your disposal as well
as a poolside bar, a cafeteria, saunas and hot tubs. Take
a Jrmala bound train to the Bulduri station.QLielupe
(Jrmala), Viestura 24, tel. (+371) 67 75 56 36, www.
akvaparks.lv. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
TALBDC
75
Health & Lifestyle

Need to buy aspirin for your headache, visit a doctor or get
a massage at a day spa? Need help starting a business in
Latvia or require the services of a lawyer? The answers to
your questions are listed below.
BUSINESS CONSULTANTS
BALTIC SALES AGENCY
If youre an entrepreneur with a unique product or represent an established company looking to sell its wares in
the Baltic market the professionals at Baltic Sales Agency
can help. Its sales specialists have extensive knowledge of
the IT, high-tech, environment, construction, energy and
agriculture industries in the Baltic region and beyond.
Why bother hiring a completely new staff when you can
outsource your sales to local professionals?QBiernieku
22, tel. (+371) 29 20 74 07, www.balticsalesagency.com.
Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CLEANERS & LAUNDRIES

CITY CLEAN
Dry cleaners and laundromat.QC-5, Barona 52 (entrance
from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 27 24 71. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
NIVLA
Wash your own clothes or just drop them off and have
the staff do it for you. QC-4, Lpla 21 (entrance from
Akas), tel. (+371) 67 28 13 46. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
FOREIGN EMBASSIES
For a complete list of foreign embassies and consulates
in Riga including opening hours visit www.mfa.gov.lv/
en/mission/?lv=0&type=1&riga=on.
CANADA
QB-4, Bazncas 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 81 39 45, riga@
international.gc.ca, www.latvia.gc.ca.
DENMARK
QH-1, Pils 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 62 10, www.ambriga.
um.dk.
FINLAND
QB-3, Kalpaka bulv. 1, tel. (+371) 67 07 88 00, www.
finland.lv.
GERMANY
QH-3, Raia bulv. 13, tel. (+371) 67 08 51 00, www.
riga.diplo.de.
SWEDEN
QF-2, A.Pumpura 8, tel. (+371) 67 68 66 00, www.
swedenabroad.com/riga.
UNITED KINGDOM
QF-2, J.Alunna 5, tel. (+371) 67 77 47 00, ukinlatvia.
fco.gov.uk/en.
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
QSamnera Velsa 1, tel. (+371) 67 10 70 00, riga.
usembassy.gov.
Health & Lifestyle

DENTISTS
ADENTA
Professional English-speaking staff.QA-4, Skanstes 13,
tel. (+371) 67 33 93 00, www.adenta.lv. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
ELLADENT
All kinds of dentistry including cosmetic dentistry.QB-3,
Vlandes 18, tel. (+371) 67 33 30 04, www.elladent.lv.
FITNESS CLUBS & GYMS

JOKER KLUBS
Although the gym is available from the early morning hours,
the pool is usually only open from 10:00 and even later at
the weekend. See website for exact times.QA-3, Katrnas
12, tel. (+371) 67 09 98 00, www.jokerklubs.lv. Open
07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AC
MYFITNESS
QC-4, Marijas iel 13/8 (Berga Bazrs), tel. (+371) 67
28 85 85, www.myfitness.lv. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Also at D-2, Kuu
24 (Radisson Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 0611 24. Open 07:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A
LAWYERS
SPIGULIS & KUKAINIS
This law firm specialises in real estate purchases, sales,
leasing and management and offers attorneys who are
licensed in both the United States and Latvia and are
completely fluent in English. The first consultation is free.
QH-2, Vau 3, tel. (+371) 28 39 03 46/(+371) 67 21 42
72, law@ska.lv, www.ska.lv.
MEDICAL
ARS
English-speaking doctors. Listed opening hours are for
the trauma centre.QF-3, Skolas 5, tel. (+371) 67 20 10 07,
www.ars-med.lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. For a 24-hour medical consultaion call its hotline
at tel. (+371) 67 20 10 03.
PHARMACIES
BENU APTIEKA
QB-6, Tallinas 57b, tel. (+371) 67 31 42 11, www.benu.lv.
Open 24hrs. Also at I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel.
(+371) 67 01 80 59. Open 08:00 - 21:00; C-4, Brvbas 38.
MNESS APTIEKA
The one on Aspazijas is an American-style pharmacy
where you can pick up over-the-counter medications
from the shelves without consulting a pharmacist.QB-5,
Brvbas 74, tel. (+371) 67 27 16 19, www.menessaptieka.
lv. Also at I-3, Aspazijas 20 (entrance from Audju), tel.
(+371) 67 22 38 26. Open 24hrs. A
HARVEST FESTIVAL
Every September Riga
throws a big harvest festival
on the last Saturday of the
month. Also known as the
Apple Market, hundreds of
farmers set up their stalls
on Cathedral Square and
sell fresh produce as well as
handmade crafts. Naturally,
plenty of folk dancing and
singing are also part and
parcel of the event, so dont forget to visit Old Riga on
September 26.
The harvest festival is actually an ancient tradition
that extends back to pagan times before Christianity was thrust upon the local population in the 13th
century. The Latvians of old celebrated the autumnal
equinox known as Miei when night and day are of
the same length signalling the end of summer and
the coming of winter or the season of spirits when the
souls of the dead returned to this world to check on
their progeny. All crops had to be harvested by Miei
and the fields had to be prepared for the long winter
ahead. The celebrations were among the happiest of
the year as the summer harvest provided a bountiful
feast for all participants.
Although it was believed for many years that the
name Mielis was adopted from the name Michael
of the Christian tradition, many folk songs mention
Mielis as one of the many sons of the ancient Latvian
god. The lesser god Jumis was also a key player in the
festivities as he was closely related to the harvest and
believed to live in all crops. In short, there were three
things that had to be done: a feast was held in honour
of Mielis, the harvest was finished to please Jumis and
local markets were held throughout the countryside.
Todays Miedienas tirgus is the continuation of these
ancient traditions so embrace your inner pagan and
have fun at the market this year.
SPAS
ESPA RIGA
ESPA Riga is the largest five-star spa in the Baltic and Scandinavian region with a futuristic interior and atmosphere that
put one in mind of utopian societies found in science fiction
films and novels. Hidden behind the beautiful facade of an
historic art nouveau building, youll find six modern floors of
swimming pools, saunas, treatment rooms, gyms and relaxation areas - all of which include cutting-edge design and
technology. Luxurious changing facilities are also at your
disposal as well as a caf serving healthy dishes and a shop
selling natural, eco-friendly ESPA products that are used in
the spa.QF-3, Bazncas 4a (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija),
tel. (+371) 67 71 52 22, www.espariga.com. Open 07:30 22:30. AFKDC
77
Hotels
Riga really has it all when it comes to hotels. You can stay in
an ultra modern design hotel in the old town or a beautiful suite with private terrace and Jacuzzi if you dont mind
spending your hard-earned cash. Those travelling on a
budget can choose from plenty of B&Bs, hostels and even a
few low-cost hotels. Unless otherwise noted, breakfast and
VAT are included in the prices listed here.
SYMBOL KEY
CREAM OF THE CROP
U Facilities for the disabled
HOTEL BERGS
Spacious, tasteful and luxurious. Pamper yourself in this
sleek, centrally located yet quiet hotel in the trendy Berga
Bazrs shopping plaza. Offering an array of amenities,
Hotel Bergs spacious interiors are a contrast of light and
dark, wood and linen. Discuss matters of grave importance in the top floor glass conference hall which seats
up to 120 people or unwind in its stylish restaurant - one
of Rigas best. Hotel Bergs is a member of the alliance of
Small Luxury Hotels of the World.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85
(Berga Bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 00, reservations@
hotelbergs.lv, www.hotelbergs.lv. 38 rooms (21 studio suites from 187, 7 apartment suites from 277, 6
loft suites from 277, 4 penthouse suites from 362).
PZHARUFGKDW
I Fireplace
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection
HOTEL NEIBURGS
This stylish design hotel is housed in one of Old Rigas
most beautiful art nouveau buildings. All 55 of its apartments include a combination of modern minimalist
dcor and original elements like restored parquet floors
that date back to 1903. Kitchens, spacious rooms, huge
plasma TVs, free wireless internet access, bathrooms with
bathtubs, slippers and robes and excellent views all come
standard. iHome dual charging stereo FM clock radios
with lightning dock and USB charge/play for iOS devices
are also included in the price. Two-storey suites, accommodation with balconies and an excellent restaurant are
also available.QI-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55
22, reservation@neiburgs.com, www.neiburgs.com.
55 rooms (36 studio apartments 143 - 172, 4 studio
deluxe 198, 8 senior suites 236, 7 two-storey suites
251 - 304). PJHAR6UFKDXW
RADISSON BLU RIDZENE HOTEL
A 1980s edifice that once served as accommodation for
the cream of Soviet society now houses one of Rigas most
deluxe hotels. Expect comfy rooms with cherry wood
decorations and an excellent top-floor sauna and fitness
complex with 180 views. Naturally, all of its rooms include
every modern convenience including flat screen TVs and
high-speed wireless internet access. Its ground floor restaurant is located below a glass pyramid that affords great
views of the park across the street.QG-3, Reimersa 1, tel.
(+371) 67 09 33 33, info.ridzene.riga@radissonblu.com,
www.radissonblu.com/ridzenehotel-riga. 95 rooms
(70 standard class 95, 13 business class 165, 8 superior class 135, 3 suites 395, 1 presidential suite 937).
PZHAUFLGBKDW

Z Anti-allergy
O Casino
T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
J Old town location 6 Pet-friendly

K Restaurant
D Sauna
X Smoking section
C Swimming pool
W Wi-fi
APARTHOTELS
RIGAAPARTMENT
RigaApartment offers 20 affordable apartments in one
building that are all available for short-term rental, so
you can stay for as little as one night or spend a whole
week here. The apartments are incredibly spacious
with high ceilings and hardwood floors and offer a
wide variety of amenities including comfortable furniture, full kitchens, washing machines, flat screen TVs
and at least one bathroom and bedroom (depending
on the apartment). Some of the flats also have fireplaces, but we preferred the cosy attic apartments.
A lift is also at your disposal and a Latvian restaurant
is available on the ground floor of the building.QC-5,
ertrdes 54, tel. (+371) 20 06 00 09, reservation@
rigaapartment.com, www.rigaapartment.com. 20
apartments (one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments 35 - 80). ZTALGW
RIGAAPARTMENT HOTEL
This charming five-storey building was completely
renovated in 2014 and is located in its own quiet private courtyard, which includes plenty of secure parking
and a childrens playground. The majority of its rooms
are 40m2 one-bedroom apartments equipped with
IKEA furniture, flat screen TVs with satellite channels,
fold-out couches, full kitchens, free wi-fi, washing machines and bathrooms with ionic hairdryers. Two of its
16 rooms offer yet another bedroom, but are similar in
style. A 24-hour reception area is available and you can
have breakfast and lunch in the cellar caf for an extra
fee. Great for families and guests who have cars. Airport
transfers available.QD-6, ertrdes 129 (entrance
from Valmieras 7), tel. (+371) 25 46 15 46, www.
RigaApartmentHotel.com. TALGBKW
Hotels
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ALBERT HOTEL
Nearly everything in this huge 11-storey hotel revolves
around a common theme - Albert Einstein. Each of the 246
rooms includes a quote from the father of modern science,
the conference facilities are named space, time and light
and even the carpets include a pattern of working atoms.
All rooms are tastefully decorated with autumnal colours
and have the standard amenities you would expect from a
great hotel. A restaurant and 11th-floor cocktail lounge are
also at your disposal.QB-4, Dzirnavu 33, tel. (+371) 67 33
17 17, www.alberthotel.lv. 246 rooms (7 singles 84, 163
doubles 89, 12 suites 139, 62 superior 99 - 104, 2 disabled-friendly 84). PZHA6UGBKW
HOTEL GUTENBERGS
The only way that this luxury hotel could have a better
location would be if it were located inside Latvias largest cathedral instead of right next to it. All rooms offer
the usual amenities including satellite TV, writing desk,
wireless internet and spacious bathrooms, but we recommend the cosy, rustically furnished rooms in the section
that was once a 17th-century warehouse. In keeping with
the Johannes Gutenberg theme, a small bronze book is
attached to each room key. Dont miss its summer rooftop restaurant.QH-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 81
40 90, www.gutenbergs.lv. 38 rooms (14 singles 100,
17 doubles 114, 1 suite 170, 6 junior suites 140).
PJHA6ULKW
BELLEVUE PARK HOTEL RIGA

This enormous hotel on the other side of the river offers
over 200 rooms, an upmarket 11th-floor restaurant and a
massive conference centre. All accommodation includes
cable TV, climate control, mini-bar, trouser press and
bathrooms with hairdryer and shower or tub. Higher end
rooms also include bathrobes, slippers, balconies and floor
to ceiling windows with views. The reception desk, which
is essentially a large aquarium, sets the tone for a comfortable stay beside one of the citys largest parks.QE-1, Slokas 1, tel. (+371) 67 06 90 00, www.hotelbellevue.lv. 231
rooms (9 singles 50, 170 doubles 60, 3 suites 160,
14 apartments 100 - 140, 30 business class 90 - 130).
PZHA6UFLKDXW
MONIKA CENTRUM HOTEL

This four-star hotel housed in a completely renovated neoGothic building built in 1883, offers spacious rooms with
satellite TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, internet access
and private bathrooms with bathtub and bidet as well as
a bar, restaurant, modern conference facilities and a fitness
centre. Many of the rooms also include balconies with excellent views of the park and surrounding 19th-century architecture. Named after the owners daughter, Monika also
offers incredible suites with original decorative artwork and
four-poster beds.QB-3, Elizabetes 21, tel. (+371) 67 03 19
00, www.centrumhotels.com. 80 rooms (12 singles 76,
50 doubles 86, 3 suites 130, 1 apartment 150, 14 junior suites 96). PHAR6UFKDXW
79
Hotels
RADISSON BLU DAUGAVA HOTEL
Located on the left bank of the River Daugava, many of its
rooms offer incredible views of Old Riga across the water.
Singles and doubles are spacious and include cable TV,
mini-bar and private bathrooms. Business travellers can
choose business class rooms or suites, which are more
spacious and include a few extra perks. An excellent fitness centre with a pool is available as well as conference
rooms and a restaurant.QD-2, Kuu 24, tel. (+371) 67 06
11 11, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-riga. 356 rooms.
PHA6UFKDXCW
RADISSON BLU ELIZABETE HOTEL
Built from the ground up in 2008, this incredibly stylish hotel is located opposite Rigas most beautiful park
a short walk from Old Riga. Its interior was created by a
trendy London design firm and each of its modern, spacious rooms includes flat screen TVs, free wireless internet,
large bathrooms and many other four-star amenities as
well as views of either the courtyard or the park. A fitness
centre, a hip cocktail bar and a grill restaurant called C.U.T.
are also at your disposal and an ice machine is located on
each floor which is unheard of in Latvia.QC-4, Elizabetes 73, tel. (+371) 67 78 55 55, www.radissonblu.com/
elizabetehotel-riga. 228 rooms (186 standard class 99,
38 business class 154, 3 suites 299, 1 two-room suite
399). PZHAUFLGBKDW
RADISSON BLU HOTEL LATVIJA
This skyscraper has been transformed into one of Latvias premier hotels. All rooms include phone, mini-bar,
hair dryer, climate control and satellite TV. Executive class
suites are more spacious and include a few extra amenities. Allergy and smoke-free accommodation is also at
your disposal, as well as three bars, a restaurant, conference facilities and room service, not to mention a new
wing with dozens of shops, gourmet food shop and a caf.
If youre in the mood to be pampered, a five-star spa, ESPA
Riga, with six floors of pools, fitness equipment and saunas
is connected to the hotel. Dont miss the view from the
26th-floor Skyline Bar.QC-4, Elizabetes 55, tel. (+371) 67
77 22 22, www.radissonblu.com/latvijahotel-riga. 571
rooms (212 standard class 95, 317 superior class 135,
38 business class 175, 3 suites 345, 1 presidential
suite 540). PZOTHAUFGKDCW
A kaleidoscope of colours on Troku iela
M.Zaprauskis
TALLINK HOTEL RIGA

This stylish hotel located a short walk from Old Riga was
built from the ground up in 2010. You can expect modern
dcor in all of its 256 rooms, which include brown, white
and silver colours, flat screen TVs, free wireless internet
access, safe, phone and other 4-star amenities as well as
bathrooms with heated tile floors and huge showerheads.
A restaurant, lobby bar, caf, cigar room and beauty salon are also available and kids are given colouring books
and crayons while their parents check in. A morning sauna
is also included in the price and underground parking is
available.QD-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 60,
www.hotels.tallink.com. 256 rooms (21 singles 70,
227 doubles 77, 3 suites 170, 5 junior suites 114).
PZHAUFKDXW
WELLTON CENTRUM HOTEL & SPA
When one walks into the grand lobby of this design hotel theyre immediately drawn to the huge aquariums
that separate the reception area from the stylish, yet affordable restaurant. All rooms are decorated in a similar
fashion with beige and grey tones and light wooden furnishings and amenities include flat screen TVs, mini-bar,
safe, coffee/tea sets, free wi-fi, ironing boards, spacious
bathrooms and climate control, not to mention bathrobes
on each bed. A spa centre including a swimming pool
is available in the basement.QI-3, Kalju 33, tel. (+371)
67 13 06 70, www.wellton.com. 120 rooms (5 singles
70 - 75, 97 doubles 80 - 85, 2 triples 100 - 110, 1
junior suites 120 - 130, 15 superior rooms 90 - 95).
PJA6GKDCW
WELLTON ELEFANT HOTEL
This sleek, modern glass and steel hotel offers rooms with
either light or dark wallpaper and furniture, depending on
the floor, and all include floor to ceiling windows, big flat
screen TVs, free wireless internet, mini-bar, complimentary coffee/tea sets, safe and phone. A small spa centre,
a restaurant and underground parking are also available.
Take bus N22 to the RMR (from the airport) or Candera iela
(from the centre) stop.QKalnciema 90, tel. (+371) 67 22
55 60, www.wellton.com. 157 rooms (1 single 40 - 45,
122 doubles 40 - 55, 8 triples 55 - 65, 13 suites 55 65, 1 apartment 100 - 110, 11 junior suites 50 - 60).
PHA6UFGKW
WELLTON GERTRUDE HOTEL
Located in a residential neighbourhood in the city centre, this large hotel offers nearly 80 rooms that include
flat screen satellite TVs, phone, writing desk, free wireless internet access, mini-bar, climate control, safe and
private bathrooms with hair dryers and complimentary
toiletries. The interiors are clean and attractive and a
conference room is also available as well as a breakfast
room.QC-5, Gertrudes 70, tel. (+371) 67 79 16 03,
www.wellton.com. 79 rooms (7 singles 50 - 55, 50
doubles 60 - 65, 3 triples 80 - 85, 6 suites 90 - 95,
3 junior suites 80 - 85, 10 superior rooms 70 - 75).
PHA6GKW
Hotels
WELLTON OLD RIGA PALACE HOTEL
This elegant Old Riga hotel offers old world atmosphere
with wood panelling, crystal chandeliers and the occasional piece of antique furniture. Rooms are similar in style
with light walls and red carpeting and include such amenities as satellite TV, air conditioning, safe, mini-bar, coffee/
tea sets and private bathrooms. A bar, fitness centre and a
lobby area with both free wireless internet access as well
as three computer workstations are also available.QJ-2,
Minsterejas 8/10, tel. (+371) 67 55 97 90, www.wellton.
com. 100 rooms (12 singles 40 - 50, 71 doubles 50 60, 5 triples 65 - 75, 1 junior suites 80 - 90, 11 business
doubles 70 - 80). PJHA6FGKDW
HOTEL
&
HOSTEL
MID-RANGE
NEW
AMIGO HOTEL & HOSTEL
This unique eight-storey building that was once home
to a factory and later an institute of some sort now offers
affordable accommodation for both budget travellers as
well as backpackers. Its location in Rigas Art Nouveau district on one of the citys best caf and bar streets is enviable and the views of the bustle far below are outstanding.
Each hotel room is decorated in a different style, but all
provide satellite TV, free wi-fi and private bathrooms with
showers and hairdryers. Dorm rooms of varying sizes offer bunk beds and individual lockers as well as common
kitchens and bathrooms facilities. QB-4, Antonijas 14,
tel. (+371) 67 33 33 52, amigohotel.lv. 30 rooms (3 large
doubles 65, 1 double 55, 6 twin 55, 3 triples 60, 2
3-bed dorms, 11 4-bed dorms, 1 5-bed dorm, 1 6-bed
dorm, 1 8-bed dorm, 1 10-bed dorm). AW
ART HOTEL LAINE
From the sunny staff to the unique, spacious and colourful
interior, Laine is a superb, affordable central find located
in a restored art nouveau building. Rooms offer cable TV,
mini-bar, private bathrooms and interesting dcor that
includes antique furniture and paintings by Latvian artists. Conference facilities, a restaurant with a fireplace and
summer terrace and free wireless internet access are also
available.QB-4, Skolas 11, tel. (+371) 67 28 88 16, www.
laine.lv. 30 rooms (12 singles 34, 12 doubles 44, 1
suite 90, 5 apartments 90). HA6
CAMPING
RIGA CITY CAMPING
Located right across the river from Old Riga, this camping area offers modern facilities for a reasonable price.
It also rents equipment such as tents, bicycles, sports
gear and barbecues and a laundry service, wi-fi and
electricity are available at an extra cost.QC-1, psalas
8, tel. (+371) 67 06 50 00, camping@bt1.lv, www.
bt1.lv/camping. 6 - 9/tent space, 11 - 17/trailer
space and an additional 3 - 5/person per night.
GREAT
LOCATION
VIEWS &
PRICES
Address: Antonijas iela 14, Riga
Phone: +371 67333352
E-mail: hotelamigo14@gmail.com
FORUMS
This modern hotel located on the edge of Old Riga offers
elegantly decorated rooms with dark red and gold upholstered wooden furnishings, satellite TV, writing desk, phone
and private bathrooms with bath. Although almost all of the
rooms are spacious and comfortable we recommend you
splurge on the top-floor suite with its own sauna or the two
luxurious rooms with large tiled balconies with views of the
city and the river. Not far from the bus and train stations.QI3, Vau 45, tel. (+371) 67 81 46 80, www.hotelforums.
lv. 32 rooms (25 doubles from 37, 4 triples from 62, 3
junior suites from 62). JAKXW
HOTEL FELICIA
What Felicia lacks in location, it more than compensates
for in service and quality. Situated in a quiet neighbourhood in the Purvciems district of Riga, the rooms of this
modern complex look like they were taken straight out of
a furniture show room. Phone, flat screen TVs with satellite channels, private bathrooms, mini-bar and climate
control are all at your disposal as well as a bar and restaurant. If youd like to relax you can also take advantage of
the downstairs sauna and the small, yet ample swimming
pool. A good option for families and guests who have their
own car. You can also take trolleybus N11 or 18 from the
Central Station to the nijas iela stop.QStirnu iela 32b, tel.
(+371) 67 59 99 42, www.hotelfelicia.com. 19 rooms (5
singles 25 - 35, 12 doubles 45 - 85, 1 suite 100, 1 junior suites 85). PHA6LKDXCW
81
Hotels
RIGA AIRPORT HOTEL ABC
Although this place is halfway between the airport and
the centre, its worth the drive if youre looking for decent
accommodation at a good price. All rooms have modern
bathrooms with showers, light coloured interiors with
wooden furniture, TV, mini-bar, telephone and internet
as well as access to a sauna and conference room. During
the summer a proper pool is also available, as well as an
area for hooking up your camper if youre travelling with
an RV.Qamptera 139a, tel. (+371) 67 89 27 28, www.
hotelabc.lv. 60 rooms (11 singles 57, 36 doubles 71,
10 triples 100, 1 suite 114, 1 apartment 141, 1 junior
suite 79). HAR6UFLKDC
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
Completely built from the ground up in 2008, the Riverside may not be the most centrally located of Riga hotels, but it does offer plenty of privacy, friendly staff and
a guarded parking lot right within the city. All rooms are
similarly decorated with reddish carpets, beige walls and
brown bedding. Flat screen cable TV, free wireless internet
access, private bathrooms with showers, phone, safe and
climate control all come standard. A sauna and Jacuzzi are
also available in the cellar.QG-6, Natana Barkana 5, tel.
(+371) 26 81 80 71, www.riversidehotel.lv. 21 rooms (20
doubles 37, 1 junior suite 50). PALDW
TIA HOTEL
This three-star hotel offers comfortable accommodation
in the city centre and its 49 rooms face a quiet courtyard
so you dont have to worry about noise. With the exception of the upmarket suites on the top floor, all rooms are
decorated in a similar style with bright pastel colours,
wood furnishings designed by local craftsmen, cable TV,
phone, safe, mini-bar and private bathrooms with showers and hair dryers. We, however, prefer the rooms on the
sixth floor each of which has its own balcony at no extra
cost. An internet terminal at reception, caf/bar and free
wi-fi are also available.QB-4, Valdemra 63, tel. (+371) 67
33 39 18, www.hoteltia.lv. 50 rooms (6 singles 55, 38
doubles 70, 3 triples 100, 1 suite 100, 2 junior suites
90). HALGKW
BED & BREAKFAST

B&B KRISJANIS & GERTRUDE
Not unlike a typical British B&B, this hotel only offers five
rooms, but each is decorated in a different fashion and
provides cable TV, free wireless internet access, modern
bathrooms, coffee/tea set and a cosy atmosphere that one
would expect from a home away from home. A common
room is also available with a kitchenette and a computer
with internet access.QC-5, Barona 39-1 (entrance from
ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 50 66 04, fax (+371) 67 50 66
03, reservation@kg.lv, www.kg.lv. 5 rooms (2 singles
36, 2 doubles 46, 1 triple 56). A6GW
JAKOB LENZ GUESTHOUSE
This B&B located in a quiet residential neighbourhood is
only a stones throw from the citys most impressive Art
Nouveau buildings and offers bright and spacious rooms,
many with private bathrooms, within renovated apartments on three floors. A full kitchen is available to all
guests as well as a communal computer with internet access or free wireless in rooms. You can also take advantage
of its laundry service and private parking in the courtyard.
QB-3, Lenu 2, tel. (+371) 67 33 33 43, info@lenz.lv,
www.guesthouselenz.lv. 28 rooms (2 singles from 17,
20 doubles from 20, 2 triples from 25, 4 family rooms
from 40). A6W
BUDGET
SKANSTE
Not being right in the city centre comes with its advantages. Peace and quiet, fresh air, green views, open space
and the closest proximity of any hotel to Arena Riga, the
best venue for concerts and sporting events in the city.
Skanste isnt at the height of fashion, but doesnt try to
be. The recipe here is genuine country-style friendliness
and straightforward comfort in a family environment. Disabled guests also welcome.QA-4, Skanstes 9, tel. (+371)
67 51 99 23, www.hotelskanste.lv. 34 rooms (8 singles
27, 18 doubles 41, 6 triples 56, 2 junior suites 64).
HA6ULGKW
HOSTELS
Old Rigas also a great place for a picnic
M.Zaprauskis
CENTRAL HOSTEL
Just look for the only orange wooden house on the corner (perhaps the only one in Riga). Rooms are somewhat
spacious and include bright coloured interiors. Modern
shared toilets and showers are located in the hallway and
a small kitchen and common room with TV, CD player and
games are also at your disposal. Breakfast, a smoking room
with hookahs, free internet access and a book exchange
corner are also available. A grocery store is located on
the ground floor and the hostel also rents bikes.QD-5, E.
Birznieka-Upa 20, tel. (+371) 22 32 26 63, reception@
centralhostel.lv, www.centralhostel.lv. 10 rooms (2 singles 25 - 28, 8 doubles 36 - 42, 1 triple 42, 1 apartment 60. A6LW
Hotels
DOMA HOSTEL
Spread out across four floors of an historic Old Riga building,
this cosy hostel offers dorms with incredibly high ceilings
on the second floor or more intimate rooms on the third
and fourth floors that include original oak beams and even
the remnants of an antique pulley system once used to lift
goods to the attic in medieval times. Each floor has its own
bathrooms and toilets as well as a small kitchenette with a
refrigerator, sink and a microwave. Many of its rooms also
include excellent views of Town Hall Square and the River
Daugava. Free wi-fi is available and theres no curfew.QI-2,
Maz Jaunavu 8, tel. (+371) 67 21 31 01, www.domahostel.
lv. 8 rooms (1 single 28, 2 doubles 36, 4 triples 45, 1
apartment 68). Breakfast: 5. PA6W
RIGA HOSTEL
Located above a McDonalds, youll never be far from
a quick meal or coffee even at midnight at this modern,
comfortable hostel. Prices for beds are affordable and
the location near the train station, bus terminal and Old
Riga couldnt be more convenient. A kitchen is available if
youd like to do your own cooking and a relaxation room
is also at your disposal where you can watch TV or a DVD,
surf the net for free or smoke a hookah. No curfew.QD-4,
Merea 1 (4th floor), tel. (+371) 22 33 78 84, reception@
rigahostel.com.lv, www.rigahostel.com.lv. 9 rooms (1
single 17, 8 doubles 19). A6W
RIGA OLD TOWN HOSTEL
The Aussie owners of this hip hostel made it clear to us that
the place is meant to be a fun, safe place to stay in Old Riga
for anyone who can appreciate comfortable beds, great
atmosphere and one of the best pubs in the city. In fact,
three floors of the building are occupied by drinking space
and the top three floors house dorm rooms with light blue
walls and red bunk beds with individual lighting and storage lockers. The hostel lacks a kitchen, but all guests can
get a free breakfast beer at the bar if they wake up before 12:00. The whole building was completely renovated
in 2013.QI-3, Vau 43, tel. (+371) 67 22 34 06, www.
rigaoldtownhostel.lv. JAGW
THE NAUGHTY SQUIRREL
The walls are cluttered with postcards, a dozen litre mugs
hang temptingly above a bar and youth of all nationalities are
in constant motion... and thats just the reception area. Walk
down hallways covered in graffiti by local street artists to find
singles, family rooms and dorms each of which includes private lockers and even speakers that can be plugged into your
iPod. Shared toilets and showers, a full kitchen and a communal room with cable TV, a DVD player and three free computers are also available here at the place that Hostelworld.com
rated the 9th best hostel in the world! It also offers a wide
range of tours and activities like bungee jumpingQI-3, Kalju
50, tel. (+371) 67 22 00 73, www.thenaughtysquirrel.com.
20 rooms (4 doubles 46, 3 triples 50, 2 four-bed dorms
10 - 17/person, 4 six-bed dorms 12 - 14/person, 4 eightbed dorms 11 - 13/person, 2 ensuite 43 - 50). Breakfast
not included. JAW
COUNTRYSIDE VACATIONS
LAUKU CEOTJS (COUNTRY TRAVELLER)
The Country Traveller offers B&Bs and holiday homes
outside of Riga. Check out its comprehensive website
to find the countryside vacation of your dreams. Ride
horses, go fishing, sweat it out in a traditional sauna,
enjoy a romantic evening by a roaring fire in a renovated farmhouse or a regal stay in an ancient castle. You
can search by region, type of accommodation, amenities offered and other parameters.QD-1, Kalnciema
40, tel. (+371) 67 61 76 00, www.celotajs.lv. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
APARTMENT RENTAL
AGENCY LILIJA PLUS
Great choice of renovated apartments in Old Riga and
the city centre from studio to four-bedroom apartments.
Airport transfer, cleaning services and long-term rentals
also available. Professional English-speaking staff.QI-3,
Rdzenes 25, tel. (+371) 67 21 60 40/(+371) 29 23 81 06,
fax (+371) 67 21 60 54, lila@latnet.lv, www.lilarealty.lv.
Reserve a hotel online at

83
Jrmala
For over a century Jrmala has been Rigas playground,
from the elegant days of the 1930s to the years of occupation. Jrmala was the ultimate destination for the USSRs
holidaymakers and countless tourists from across the union
descended on this small peninsula from Lielupe to Vaivari
each summer. Even today, some of that Soviet flavour still
lingers, but many of the hotels have been upgraded to Western standards and the dining scene has improved by leaps
and bounds. You too can explore beautiful beaches, soothing
spas and seafood restaurants on the Latvian Riviera.
ARRIVING IN JRMALA
By train The first train service between Riga and Jrmala
started in 1877. Over a century later the electrical commuter train is still slow and takes 40 minutes from the
central train station to Majori. Trains leave frequently from
platforms 3 and 4.
By minibus Minibuses depart from the Central Minibus
Station (opposite the Central Train Station) roughly every
15 minutes from 06:00 - 24:00. Take the Riga - Sloka, Riga
- Dubulti or Riga - Jaunemeri minibus and ask the driver
let you out at Majori. The ride takes 30 minutes and costs
about 1.65.
By car The well-kept 15km long highway from Riga to
Jrmala is one of the best in the nation. Motorists have to
drive up to the toll machines and pay a fee of 2. Place the
receipt on your dashboard.
HOTELS
AMBER SEA HOTEL & SPA
Built in 2006 on a quiet piece of land off of the main street
in a scenic pine forest only a short walk from the beach,
Amber Sea Hotel has much to offer. Standard doubles include modern furnishings, satellite TV, wireless internet,
phone, writing desk and bathrooms with either bathtub
or shower, while suites have the added advantage of more
space, huge terraces and views of the sea. A spa centre and
a restaurant are also available.QDzintari, Dzintaru prospekts 68, tel. (+371) 67 75 12 97, www.amberhotel.lv. 40
rooms (singles 60 - 110, doubles 65 - 140, suites 130
- 235, apartments 139 - 210, junior suite 200 - 299).
HAFLGKDCW
Youll have to walk a while to get wet in Jrmala
84 Jrmala In Your Pocket
M.Zaprauskis
FOOD & DRINK

CAF 53
With a prime location on the strip, loads of space on two
floors and a huge summer terrace, Caf 53 will never be
short of customers. Choose from a wide selection of local
fish dishes, pizzas and international cuisine, not to mention plenty of meat dishes barbecued on the grill. The restaurant also offers a number of speciality beers including
Belgian Kwak.QMajori, Jomas 53, tel. (+371) 67 81 17 71,
www.cafe53.lv. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (6 - 14). ABW
KRI
This wonderful Latvian restaurant is difficult to find and a
reservation is absolutely essential on a sunny day, but Kri
is one of the best dining experiences youll have in Jrmala.
Located right next to the beach this rustic wooden fishing
shack serves huge portions of traditional local cuisine and
also hosts concerts by Latvian bands at the weekend that
often turn into impromptu dances. Take a Jrmala bound
train to the Sloka station and then either walk or hail a cab.
QKaugurciems 47, tel. (+371) 67 73 46 77, www.kurins.lv.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. AEBS
MADAM BRIO (MADAME BRIOCHE)
If youre looking for fantastic French pastries and cuisine in
Jrmala, then escape the busy streets of Majori and head
out to the tranquil surroundings at Madame Brioche in
Mellui. You can order takeaway croissants, clairs and baguettes at its shop to the right or have a seat at its modern
caf to the left. The croque-monsieur was the best weve
had in Latvia. QMellui, Melluu prospekts 9-1, tel.
(+371) 20 78 55 55, www.brios.lv. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
(3 - 18). ALBSW
OPTIBET SPORTS BAR
Just look for its quaint summer terrace on Jomas to find
what is in our estimation Jrmalas only real sports bar. A collection of football shirts and scarves hang from the ceiling
and one wall is completely covered in a mural of rowdy fans
in a stadium so you wont feel lonely. Sporting events are
shown on 11 TVs and two projectors and you can also place
bets on these games at the bar, legally of course. Best of all,
a number of foreign and domestic brews are on draught for
very reasonable prices.QMajori, Jomas 61, tel. (+371) 67 27
38 96, www.optibet.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AB
COMING SOON
STREET BURGERS
By the time you read this, Rigas best chain of authentic
burger joints will have opened yet another establishment
on Jrmalas main pedestrian street, Jomas iela, so if you
appreciate delicious, juicy gourmet burgers made with
beef sourced from Latvian farms, this is the place to go.
Naturally, you can add toppings to personalise your burger
and what would a cheeseburger be without a tasty brew?
Wash your lunch down with a craft beer by Brew Dog.
QJomas 61, tel. (+371) 24 92 08 16, www.streetburgers.
lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 7). ABSW
jurmala.inyourpocket.com
Jrmala
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

DUBULTI LUTHERAN CHURCH
Like most everything else constructed at the time, this
beautiful church was built in Art Nouveau style in 1909.
Not unlike most Lutheran churches in Latvia, its interior is a
bit plain, but its fantastic spire is visible from the surrounding towns and is definitely its most impressive feature.
QBazncas 13.
JOMAS STREET (JOMAS IELA)
When people arent sunning themselves at the beach or
getting a spa treatment in one of the local hotels, they
converge on Jomas iela, which is the heart and soul of
this seaside resort. The pedestrian street is lined on both
sides by quaint wooden cottages and art nouveau edifices
that now house countless cafs, restaurants and shops. If
youre looking for something to eat or drink or just want to
absorb Jrmalas unique atmosphere, then this is the place
to go.QMajori, Jomas iela.
JRMALA OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
Located not far from where the River Lielupe flows into
the Gulf of Riga in the Ragakpa (Horn Dune) Nature Park,
this museum was created to illustrate what life was like
for Latvian fishermen in the 19th and early 20th centuries. QLielupe, Tklu 1a, tel. (+371) 67 75 49 09, www.
jurmalasmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: free.
LVU AKVAPARKS
Latvias largest indoor aqua park charges anywhere between 22 - 25/adult for four hours of fun, children under six 3 - 5. A wave pool, childrens pool, saunas, water
slides and other attractions are all at your disposal as well
as poolside bars and a bistro.QLielupe, Viestura 24, tel.
(+371) 67 75 56 36, www.akvaparks.lv. Open 12:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK
THE TURTLE (BRUURUPUCIS)
The bronze statue of a turtle, which symbolises longevity,
has been watching over the beach from his elevated position since 1995. Created by sculptor J.Brda, its now one of
the most recognised symbols in Jrmala and its become
somewhat of a tradition for tourists to have their photo
taken next to it or, in some cases, on top of it.QMajori,
Tirgou 1.
JRMALA FOR KIDS

DZINTARI FOREST PARK
Located in the forest not far from the Dzintari train station, this is a giant playground that has everything a kid
could ever want from rope climbing and slides to a skate
park and basketball courts. Parents will be happy to know
that it also includes a 33.5m-tall observation tower with 12
balconies at various heights, two cafs and public toilets.
QBetween Mea prospekts, Rembates iela and Madonas ielu, tel. (+371) 67 14 79 00.
June - July 2015
85
Liepja
Straddling a narrow strip of land between the sea and a
lake Latvias third largest city began as a humble fishing village, eventually becoming a major trading port under the
leadership of Jacob (or James) Kettler (1610 - 1681). The
burgeoning city suffered heavily during the Great Northern
War when the population was decimated by an outbreak
of the plague in 1710. It only regained its importance as
a port in the 19th century as a part of the Russian empire.
Today, Liepja is known as a progressive city with beautiful architecture, an internationally recognised Blue Flag
beach and a raging nightlife that just wont quit. Whether
its white sandy beaches and the sea youre after, culture
and centuries-old architecture, or extreme sports and even
extremer nightlife, Latvias hippest city has it all.
GETTING THERE & ARRIVING

Liepja is located on the Baltic Sea coast 217km southwest
of Riga. If youre travelling by car from Riga take the A9 all
the way to the city. Buses to Liepja depart from the Riga
bus station and the trip lasts roughly 3.5 hours. All buses arrive at the train station. Trains depart Riga twice a week on
Fridays and Sundays at 18:25 (returning on Mondays and
Saturdays at 06:05) and arrive at the Liepja station a little
more than three hours later. Walk down Rgas iela and reach
the centre of town in 15 minutes or take a tram which stops
next to the station. Buy a 0.70 ticket from the driver or at
newsstands and kiosks for 0.57. You can also purchase a
24-hour ticket for 2.13 or a ticket for 10 rides for 5.41. You
must time stamp the ticket in the tram.
ACCOMMODATION
FONTAINE HOTEL
In all our years of reviewing hotels across Europe, this is
one of the hippest weve ever seen. The reception area
is a curiosity shop in the corner of this lovingly restored
wooden building that is over a century old. Rooms are a
mix of rustic hardwood floors, oriental carpets, army footlockers for tables and footstools, assorted antiques and
modern conveniences like cable TV with DVD players and
modern private bathrooms. You can also stay in the Elvis
suite decorated with pictures of the king and other garish design elements. Theres also a communal kitchen in
the basement and a chill out room with TV and hookahs
on offer. Ask for a room with a balcony, but book well
in advance.QJras 24, tel. (+371) 63 42 09 56, hotel@
fontaine.lv, www.fontaine.lv. 19 rooms (11 doubles 45,
3 suites 65, 3 family rooms 65, 2 budget rooms 25).
Breakfast: 6. A6LXW
FONTAINE ROYAL HOTEL
All of Louis Fontaines establishments including nightclubs
and restaurants are infused with a wacky, yet hip sense of
style and his latest endeavour is no exception. Nearly everything is gold. In keeping with the royal theme, all of the
furniture is gilded and giant crowns serve as lighting in the
hallways. Rooms are spacious with Moroccan tiles in the
bathrooms, TV/DVD players and internet access. A huge
steakhouse is available as well as a day spa.QStrmau
1, tel. (+371) 63 48 97 77, royal@fontaine.lv, www.
fontaineroyal.lv. 50 rooms (singles 35, doubles 45 55, suites 80 - 115, junior suites 65, budget 20 - 25,
family rooms 65). Breakfast: 6. ZHARF
LKDXCW
AVANTA
Go to the shoe shop and inquire about the rooms upstairs
if youd like to stay in affordable, completely renovated
apartments in the heart of Liepja. The rooms on the second floor are spacious with high ceilings and include private bathrooms with showers, kitchenettes, refrigerators
and cable TV. The attic rooms are smaller studio-style
apartments, but have the added advantage of air conditioning for the summer months. Guarded parking is also
available.QBrvzemnieku 35, tel. (+371) 28 29 00 59,
www.avanta.viss.lv. 5 rooms (5 apartments 38 - 60).
Breakfast: 5. PJLW
HOTEL KOLUMBS
Each of the stylish rooms in this design hotel is decorated to match the colours and mood of a landscape
photograph hanging over the bed. Flat screen TVs,
phone, writing desk and mini-bar all come standard
and a trendy billiard bar, upmarket restaurant, conference facilities and sauna and Jacuzzi are also available,
not to mention a fantastic breakfast with a buffet and
eggs cooked to order.QKuru 32, tel. (+371) 22 01 93 85,
info@hotelkolumbs.com, www.hotelkolumbs.com.
26 rooms (doubles from 35, comfort rooms from
56). PHA6ULKDXCW
Theres plenty to do at Liepjas white sand beach
LIBAVA
This chic design hotel is located in an historic building
dating back to 1772 that has throughout the years also
served as a customs house, a lookout station, a soup
kitchen, a bar and a library. Rooms are decorated in a
minimalist style with light wooden Scandinavian furniture and white walls and include satellite TV, refrigerator,
safe, phone, wireless internet and climate control. You
can have your breakfast in your room, in its restaurant or
in the glass atrium under a giant palm tree. A sauna and
hot tub complex is also at your disposal.QVec Ostmala
29, tel. (+371) 27 08 00 05, www.libava.lv. Breakfast:
5. PHALGKDW
86 Liepja In Your Pocket
M.Zaprauskis
liepaja.inyourpocket.com
July 29August 27
Liepja Symphony Orchestra
Music Festival Liepjas Summer
August 12
The International Festival of
Street Theatres Land.Sky.Sea
Allure of the beach
Enjoy the whitest sand, most beautiful sunsets,

craziest beach parties
Culture and music dwells in Liepaja

Experience culture, listen to the musical
rhythms of Liepaja and find your own!
An active holiday by the water
Take some energy from the city where

the wind is born
August 629
Art and Music Forum
Discover Your Amber!
August 8
Liepaja Fashion Show and
Fashion Performance
Beauty Symposium
August 1330
Festival Via Baltica and Ancient
Fire Night
August 1415
International Music Festival
Fontaine Festival
August 16
Liepja Velo Marathon
August 22
Moto Festival Seeburg Bikerland
August 2830
Speed Festival Rally Kurzeme
September 120
International Organ Music Festival
September 26
The night of culture in Liepaja
Akti nakt
Liepaja events calendar:
kalendars.liepaja.lv
Liepja
FOOD & DRINK
Liepjas dining scene offers a little bit of something for
everyone. Although casual, inexpensive bistros can be
found on nearly any street corner, an ever-increasing number of cosy, interesting restaurants have sprouted up all
over town. Eat a pork chop and potatoes for under 5 at
a local cafeteria, try the reindeer carpaccio with a glass of
cabernet sauvignon in an upmarket restaurant or order fish
and chips at a neighbourhood pub.
CHEAP & QUICK

Liepjas own walk of fame
M.Zaprauskis
PORI
Located in a quiet neighbourhood in the centre of Liepja,
this charming yellow wooden house certainly catches the
eye of all passers-by. All rooms are spacious and completely renovated with cable TV, writing desk, alarm clock and
private bathrooms with shower and hair dryer. The beds
in the old section are a bit narrow, but the new addition
offers more modern, not to mention spacious accommodation.QPalmu 5, tel. (+371) 29 15 05 96, www.porins.
lv. 20 rooms (singles from 32, doubles from 32, family
rooms from 64). ALK
SEVEN SISTERS
This wonderful hotel is located in a residential neighbourhood near Lake Liepja and youre guaranteed lots
of peace and quiet in your room and also in its private
garden that includes a swing set for the kids and a barbecue area. The building itself is a beautifully renovated
historic brick edifice and all of its seven rooms are spacious
and tastefully decorated. Carpeted floors and interesting
design elements make one feel as if theyre staying at a
friends house - a friend with a good sense of style.QEgu
8, tel. (+371) 63 48 11 40, www.sevensisters.lv. 7 rooms
(7 doubles 35 - 43). AL
OUTSIDE LIEPJA
CHILL INN
A short ride from Liepja and only 300m from the sea is
the cleverly named Chill Inn. The ranch-style building is
in the shape of a V with a two-storey communal hall that
offers a kitchen, relaxation area with satellite TV and DVD
player and a conference hall. Each room is decorated in
a different style and includes satellite TV, refrigerator and
private bathroom with shower and heated floors, not to
mention huge picture windows and a hammock hanging outside. A sauna with an adjoining room is also at
your disposal and you can also save cash and just pitch
a tent here. Bicycle rental also available.QNcas pagasts,
Arji (10km south of Liepja off the A11), tel. (+371)
26 42 58 00, www.chillinn.lv. 12 rooms (12 doubles
30 - 55, tents 4.50/person). Breakfast not included.
HAR6LGD
FONTAINE DELISNACK
Mr. Fontaine is just full of great ideas. This small fast food
joint serves nearly a dozen different kinds of burgers, spicy
Tex-Mex food like tacos and burritos, pizzas and even
stir-fried noodles and spring rolls, all made to order. You
can have them delivered to your hotel, eat them outside
by the canal or take them into the nightclub next door.
QDzirnavu 4, tel. (+371) 63 48 85 23, www.fontaine.lv.
Open 24hrs. (3 - 6). AVBS
TRS SIVNI (THREE LITTLE PIGS)
The Three Little Pigs offers your standard Latvian staples
like pork chops and schnitzels as well as pizza by the pie
or slice. Long queues of locals often begin forming around
lunchtime and they move at a glacial pace so you might
want to avoid the peak times or give it a pass altogether.
QZivju 3, tel. (+371) 63 42 23 70. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 22:00. (3 - 6). AS
COFFEE & DESSERT

BOULANGERIE
Located in a tiny historic space by Peters Market, Boulangerie
specialises in gourmet coffee, fresh bread and pastries and
tasty sweets including delicious macaroons in a variety of flavours. You can also have a glass of wine or a cocktail while you
take advantage of free wi-fi or just soak up the trendy atmosphere of white-washed walls covered in art. Prices are a little
high for Liepja, but the hipster clientele and the staff dont
seem to mind and the rooftop terrace is fantastic.QKuru 2,
tel. (+371) 27 13 46 86, www.boulangerie.lv. Open 10:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ABSW
DARBNCA
The Workshop offers lots of light yellow exposed brick, blue
walls covered with the latest photo exhibition and wooden
tables crowned with fresh flowers. The laid back atmosphere is enhanced by soothing jazz music and the staff are
polite and friendly. Order tasty coffee, cake and pastries for
affordable prices as well as some salads and a soup du jour.
A spare room is available in the back for seminars, meetings
and presentations and you can also scan and print documents here. Toys and games can also be enjoyed by the
young and the young at heart.QLiel 8, tel. (+371) 26 81
13 13, www.darbnicacafe.lv. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. ASW
Liepja
RESTAURANTS
BEL CIBO CAFE
Liepja finally has a proper Italian restaurant serving tasty
and affordable appetisers, pastas, salads and a small selection of main courses. Naturally a number of delicious
pizzas are also on the menu, but what impressed us most
was the professional staff and the serene atmosphere two things that can be hard to find in this seaside city. The
interior is very orange, but dont hold that against them,
as this is one of the best places to eat in this part of Latvia.
If you still need convincing, youll be interested to know
that the chef is Italian and fresh ingredients are imported
from Italy every week. If you have room try the homemade
gelato.QGraudu 21, tel. (+371) 27 83 02 74. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu.
(6 - 12). AB
GINGER
As far as we can tell the aptly named Ginger is Liepjas
first authentic Asian restaurant. Inside this converted
wooden beach cottage youll discover a sleek, stylish
interior of dark hardwood floors and tables and red and
white walls. Even the toilet is decorated with Chinese
watercolours, bamboo and burning incense. Belly up to
the sushi bar for nigiri, maki and sashimi or choose from
a wide selection of Chinese main courses not to mention
desserts like fried bananas with ice cream. Tea, wine and
Asahi beer are also on offer, but bear in mind that the
staff lack the Asian aptitude for hospitality and snappy
service.QPeldu 54, tel. (+371) 63 42 02 93, www.
ginger.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. (4 - 10). ABSW
HOUSE OF FOOD
This appropriately named restaurant in the funky Fontaine
Royal Hotel is a feast for the eyes and your belly. Elegant,
gilded chairs and tables and crystal chandeliers share
the same space with pink and white checkerboard walls,
a kids corner and a huge deli counter that separates the
dining hall from the open plan kitchen. Take your pick of
dozens of dishes from all-day breakfast food, burgers and
falafel to a number of different steaks and seafood, which
you have to order at the counter. A large summer terrace
is also available.QStrmau 1, tel. (+371) 63 48 97 76,
www.fontaineroyal.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 04:00. (4 - 15). TABSW
PASTNIEKA MJA
The Postmans House is located in an ancient renovated building in the centre of the city. Unfortunately,
the interior is actually quite modern but well forgive
them because the courtyard is so charming. Dine on
excellent international fair on the ground floor, upstairs
or on the extensive summer terrace. Try the traditional
Liepjas mencii (smoked cod fish stew) or something
more exotic like the bulls balls.QFr. Brvzemnieka 53,
tel. (+371) 29 11 31 86, www.pastniekamaja.lv. Open
11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 10). ABW
Hotel in the centre of Liepja with

a cozy & friendly atmosphere and
extraordinary design.
Address: Jras iela 24, Liepja
Phone: +371 63420956
E-mail: hotel@fontaine.lv
Located downtown in a renovated factory

at the canal. Fontaine Royal offers
a swimming pool, spa, fitness centre,
conference hall, restaurant and bar.
Address: Strmau iela 1, Liepja
Phone: +371 63489777
E-mail: royal@fontaine.lv
House Of Food is a place to eat good,

quick international food from all corners
of the world.
Address: Strmau iela 1, Liepja
Phone: +371 63489777
WWW.FONTAINE.LV
89
Liepja
NIGHTLIFE
SIGHTSEEING
In a city that boasts more rock musicians than any other in

the nation, its never hard to find a party.
Youll need at least a couple of days to see everything that

Liepja has to offer. Spend the night in a haunted prison,
climb up to the clock tower of Holy Trinity Church for spectacular views of the city, soak up the atmosphere at Peters
Market, explore the ruins of a tsarist fort or just spend time
at the Blue Flag beach.
ACROPOLIS
This open space crammed full of old couches, tables and
mismatched furniture is also home to live jazz, blues and
world music each weekend, but if youre not lucky enough
to catch an act you can always order food and drinks next
door and chill out in this club that is essentially an extension of the Fontaine Palace. It looks like a mix between a
brick warehouse and a trendy art gallery and its a good
place to escape the cigarette smoke in the main building.
QDzirnavu 4, tel. (+371) 63 48 97 77, www.acropolis.lv.
Open 11:00 - 03:00.
FONTAINE PALACE
Head down to the harbour canal for live concerts every
weekend and a steady diet of alternative music. This converted warehouse offers a huge dance floor on ancient timbers
in front of the main stage, but dont overlook the downstairs
bar with its own DJ and a more relaxed atmosphere. Food
from its next door Delisnack is also served round the clock,
so you can grab a burger before or after a show.QDzirnavu
4, tel. (+371) 63 48 85 10, www.fontainepalace.lv. Open
24hrs. Admission: Fri, Sat 1 - 3. EBX
KLONDAIKA
The building that looks like a huge barn with a tiled roof
is actually one the best places for a drink in the city. Find
a Tex-Mex style restaurant (12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00) to the right also serving international dishes, a fully
stocked bar with plenty of TVs in the middle and slot machines to the left. The entire second floor is dedicated to
pool and snooker and also offers a smoking room.QStendera 3, tel. (+371) 63 48 94 50, www.klondaika.lv. Open
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. OAEBXW
LOMS
Open late even on weekdays, this manly bar decorated
with cowboy hats, antiques and other nick-knacks is a
good place to eat a hearty meal, play some pool or just to
enjoy a reasonably priced local brew in the evening. At the
weekend after 22:00 its rustic interior is transformed into a
disco, but we prefer the serene beer garden in the courtyard. QRaia 13, tel. (+371) 63 44 10 00. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. AB
RED SUN BUFFET BEACH BAR
Spend a day at the citys beautiful Blue Flag beach in style
at Red Sun Buffet where you can expect excellent cocktails and a fun atmosphere right on the sand or on one
of the couches inside its white pavilion. You can also order beer, soft drinks and snacks but we recommend the
pina colada served in a coconut. It also rents beach chairs
for sunbathing.QLiepja Beach, tel. (+371) 25 85 85 80,
www.redsunbuffet.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 04:00. ABW
CHURCHES
HOLY TRINITY LUTHERAN CHURCH (SV.
TRSVIENBAS LUTERU BAZNCA)
Although the churchs facade looks like it could use some
renovations and repairs, the amazing gilded rococo interior will not fail to impress. Built from 1742 - 1758, the baroque-style church is best known for its incredible organ,
whose over 7,000 pipes, 131 registers and four manuals
made it, for a time, the worlds largest larger even than
that of the Dome in Riga. For a small fee you can climb up
the many wooden stairs to the clock tower where youre
afforded an excellent view of the city. The climb is not for
the faint of heart.QLiel 9, tel. (+371) 63 42 22 08. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Admission: donations.
ST. ANNES CHURCH (SV. ANNAS BAZNCA)
Although there has been a St. Annes on this spot since the
early 1500s, the current red brick neo-Gothic structure was
created in 1893. The soaring steeple reaches a height of
60m, but the churchs main claim to fame is its impressive
baroque altar painting that measures a whopping 5.8 by
9.7m no small feat for Latvia whose Lutheran houses of
worship usually lack the ornamentation of flashier Catholic
churches. The nations third largest organ is also worth a
look.QE. Veidenbauma 1, tel. (+371) 63 42 33 84.
ST. JOSEPHS CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL (SV.
JZEPA KATOU KATEDRLE)
The massive yellow brick church next to the market has an
interesting history. The expanding 19th-century congregation had outgrown its small building, but had been denied a building permit for a new church so they just added
onto the existing one creating the towering structure you
now see. The interior is ornately decorated with scenes
from the Bible.QRakstveu 13, tel. (+371) 63 42 97 75,
www.katedrale.lv.
Liepjas characteristic wooden architecture
M.Zaprauskis
Liepja
KAROSTA
Once completely off limits to civilians, the former naval port
has become Liepjas main attraction.
KAROSTA PRISON (KAROSTAS CIETUMS)
This ominous brick building has been witness to ghastly
crimes over the past century. Originally built as an infirmary in 1900, it was used as a military prison by a long succession of regimes including the Soviets, Nazis and most
recently, the Latvians. Although the Nazis sentenced criminals such as Latvian deserters to death here and executed
them outside in the yard, the post-independence Latvian
military mostly imprisoned seamen who went AWOL. A
tour of the building will reveal the horrible life lived by the
inmates and the graffiti they left behind.
Guides are also happy to tell you the tale of the ghost
that haunts the prison and how doors often swing open
by themselvesand how visitors and staff have felt the disturbing cold of a presence not of this earth. The hauntings
were even investigated in an episode of the SciFi Channels
Ghost Hunters International.
Visitors can take a simple tour with a guide or audio
guide, participate in a reality show (in English or German),
spend the night in a cell or do the ultimate and become a prisoner for the night (see website for details). For participatory
events you must call ahead and reserve a time.QInvaldu
4, tel. (+371) 26 36 94 70, www.karostascietums.lv. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Admission: 3 - 4.50.
NORTHERN FORTS (ZIEMEU FORTI)
A long system of concrete fortifications were once part of the Naval
Ports defences, but they were destroyed after a friendship and cooperation agreement was signed
with Germany in 1908. Its not
known if the tsar later pondered
the irony of blowing up such massive defences on the eve of WWI,
but of course its always easy to
make jokes with hindsight. Today,
you can cautiously walk through the ruins and watch
buildings, pillboxes and concrete staircases slowly recede
into the sea.QNorth of the breakwater, west of Atmodas bulvris.
ST. NICHOLAS ORTHODOX SEA CATHEDRAL (SV.
NIKOLAJA PAREIZTICGO JRAS KATEDRLE)
This monumental symbol of both the Orthodox Church
and the tsarist monarchy must have been at odds with
communist doctrine and no doubt a thorn in the side
of the party devout. Finished in 1903 and christened by
Nicholas II himself, it served as the garrisons church much
as it did during the Latvian period. The Soviets however
used it as a warehouse, gymnasium and meeting hall.
Today it is once again an Orthodox house of worship and
an architectural wonder in a sea of concrete mediocrity.
QKatedrles 7, tel. (+371) 63 45 76 34.
FONTAINE ROCK FESTIVAL

Every year eccentric Danish rocker Louie Fontaine,
who also happens to be the
owner of some of Liepjas
best clubs, bars and hotels,
throws a huge music festival
on the Promenade in Liepja
and this year marks its 10th
anniversary. Former headliners of the event have
included Bloodhound Gang, Jimmy Cliff and Sham
69. This years headliners include blues heavyweight
Charles Burton (USA), psycho blues band the John E.
Vistec Experience (UK), Copenhagen soul singers D/troit
(Denmark) as well as local favourites Lvi, Hobos, Dzelzs
Vilks, Inokentijs Mrpls and Triana Park. For more information visit www.fontainefestival.com. The festival will
take place at the Liepja Promenade from August 14
- 15. Tickets cost only 8 - 10 for both days.
MUSEUMS
LIEPJA MUSEUM (LIEPJAS MUZEJS)
Housed in a building which is itself an historical treasure,
the museum has managed to maintain its original early
20th-century interior. The ground floor displays Stone
and Bronze Age artefacts unearthed at local archaeological sites, an excellent collection of weapons and jewellery
recovered from a Viking settlement at Grobia and vintage
memorabilia from both world wars. Paintings and ethnographic costumes are also on display.QKrmjas prospekts 16, tel. (+371) 63 42 29 73, www.liepajasmuzejs.lv.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: free.
PLACES OF INTEREST
LAKE LIEPJA NATURE BOARDWALK
Nature lovers no longer have to leave Liepja to appreciate
the great outdoors and the wildlife it supports. You can
now take a look at the wetlands surrounding Lake Liepja
on its north-western edge where Lauku iela meets Eduarda Tis iela. Just follow the roughly 1km-long wooden
boardwalk and see if you can spot a rare bird or a unique
aquatic creature only minutes from the city centre.QIntersection of Lauku and Eduarda Tis iela.
MONUMENT TO MARINERS LOST AT SEA (PIEMINEKLIS BOJ GJUAJIEM JRNIEKIEM)
Erected in 1977 to honour all of the local sailors and fishermen lost at sea, this massive communist-style monument
depicts a woman gazing out onto the Baltic hoping to
catch a glimpse of her missing loved one. Later after independence a plaque was added commemorating a little
known incident on April 8, 1950 when a US Navy airplane
carrying 10 American airmen was shot down by the Soviets off the coast of Liepja.QOn the beach at the end of
Krmjas prospekts.
91
Liepja
PETERS MARKET (PTERTIRGUS)
Since the second half of the 17th century Kuru laukums served as the citys main market, but in 1910 the
Ptertirgus pavilion was built next door and has remained
Liepjas central trading venue to this day. Inside youll find
stunning architecture and a hygienic market that has lost
some of its character due to the pressures of the modern
era. Outside youll find flower and vegetable stalls.QKuru
5/7/9, tel. (+371) 63 42 35 17, www.petertirgus.lv. Open
08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
PROMENADE (PROMENDE)
This beautiful walkway along the canal was once off limits
during Soviet times. Perhaps the temptation to set sail for
Sweden frightened the local party bosses. Today, you can
take a stroll and look at the ships and yachts moored here
or take a tour of the harbour. Other sites of interest include
a huge hourglass filled with amber instead of sand and
a fountain thats supposed to look like a wave. There are
also pubs, shops, galleries and clubs along the Promenade.
QAlong the south side of the Tirdzniecbas canal.
Evening light on the Promenade
SEASIDE PARK (JRMALAS PARKS)

Nearly 50 hectares of parkland await you right next to
the beach. The park was created in the 1870s and over
the years, the citys most prominent citizens built grand
wooden summer cottages here. Stroll down Liepu and
Dzintaru streets for excellent 100-year-old architecture
or take advantage of all that the park has to offer including beer gardens and cafs, miniature golf, tennis courts,
bowling, a huge childrens playground and even a skate
park.QAt the far west end of Peldu.
WALK OF FAME
Although not quite as impressive as the one in Hollywood,
this Walk of Fame boasts the hand prints of Latvias most
renowned rock and folk musicians and is appropriately located next to Latvias 1st Rock Caf.QZivju iela.
WOODEN ARCHITECTURE
Liepja is a great place to see old wooden residential
buildings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries usually topped with a red tile roof. Although some look like
theyre on the verge of collapse, many others have been
renovated and some even house some of the citys best
accommodation.Q
SPORTS & LEISURE

BB WAKEPARK
Cool off this summer with some wakeboarding on Lake
Beberlii in the Karosta area of Liepja. It also rents boats
and SUPs.QLbieu 2/6, tel. (+371) 26 14 61 83, www.
bbwakepark.lv.
DZINTARA BOULINGS (BOWLING)
In addition to eight modern bowling lanes this recreation
complex by the beach also offers a bar, restaurant, air hockey, pool tables and a childrens area.QPeldu 66, tel. (+371)
63 48 00 80, www.dzintaraboulings.lv. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A
FOUR WINDS (ETRI VJI)
This boat offers tours of the Liepja canal and the Baltic
Sea and can also take anglers on fishing trips.QVec Ostmala 40, tel. (+371) 26 38 64 06, www.fourwinds.lv.
HOUSE OF CRAFTSMEN (AMATNIEKU NAMS)
If youd like to buy original Latvian crafts during your stay
in Liepja, then this is the place to go. Not only can you
browse through an impressive collection of handmade
ceramics, amber jewellery, leather work and woven items
in its salon, but you can also watch the craftsmen make
these beautiful items upstairs in their studios.QDrza 4/8,
tel. (+371) 26 54 14 24. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Admission: free.
KURLAND MOTO
This company rents bikes as well as scooters and motorcycles. A regular bike will cost you 3/hour or 10 for the
whole day. ID and deposit are required.QKuru 32 (Hotel
Kolumbs), tel. (+371) 26 85 72 51, www.kurlandmoto.lv.
LIEPJA OLYMPIC CENTRE (LIEPJAS OLIMPISKAIS CENTRS)
This five-storey multifunctional sports centre offers a gym,
a large hall for sports and events, separate rooms for basketball, volleyball and other sports and its most popular
area - the spa with swimming pools, hot tubs and saunas.
QBrvbas 39, tel. (+371) 63 48 38 88, www.loc.lv.
LIEPJA SKATE PARK & PLAYGROUND
Walk along the narrow Jrmala Park that runs parallel to
the beach and youll find a huge childrens playground
complete with a giant pirate ship. If your kids are too old
to appreciate all this then they can take advantage of the
next door skatepark if they happen to have their board or
inline skates with them.QJrmalas parks.
NIKNS LAIVAS
This company rents kayaks and offers tours of Liepjas waterways as well as nearby lakes and rivers.QVec Ostmala
29, tel. (+371) 26 37 70 55, niknaslaivas.lv.
TOURIST INFORMATION
LIEPJA REGION TOURISM INFORMATION OFFICE
The friendly staff can arrange accommodation and provide a wide selection of tours, maps, guides and other
services including bicycle rental. You can also leave your
luggage for small fee.QRou laukums 5/6, tel. (+371) 63
48 08 08, info@liepaja.travel, www.liepaja.travel. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Liepja
93
Old Riga map
Index
Academy of Sciences 67
Agency Lilija Plus
83
Albert Hotel
79
Aldaris Beer Museum 60
Alus arsenls
40
Alus Celle
50
Amigo Hotel & Hostel 81
Aperitivo 36
Aperon 27
Aqua Luna
16
Art Caf Sienna
25
Art Hotel Laine
81
Art Nouveau architecture
58
Aussie Backpackers Pub 55
Ave Sol Concert Hall 58
Bastion Hill
63
B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude 82
Bellevue Park Hotel Riga 79
Bergs Restaurant
44
Bestsellers 33
Bibliotka No 1 Restorns
44
Brlis 55
Brooklyn Pub & Whiskey
Room 50
Brothers Cemetery
63
Buruja brokastis
24
Cabo Cafe
46
Cadets de Gascogne 27
Caf Balanss
24
Caf LChaim
39
CanCan Pizza
32
Castle of Light - National
Library 64
Cat House
64
Central Hostel
82
Central Market
64
etri Balti Krekli
54
Charlestons 30
Charlie Pizza
43
Check Point
57
Chomsky 46
CityDiner
26, 38
City Woks
26
Coffee Tower
25
Cook Door
38
C.U.T. 33
Daugava Beach
17
Delicio 38
Depo 50
Doma Hostel
83
Dvine 57
Egle 42
Eksports 16
Elkor Food & Wine

24
Esplande 33
Esplanade Park
63
Esplande Terrace
42
Fat Pumpkin
39
Fazenda 24
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs

40, 54
Food Box
38
Forest Park
63
Forums 81
Freedom Monument 67
Friends 50
Gan Bei
26, 32
Garciems Beach
17
Get Smart Caf
46
Ghetto Burger
30
Golden 53
Grande Brasserie Riga 32
Great & Small Guild Halls
64
Gutenbergs 33
Haapuri 32
Himalaju-zijas virtuve 26
Hotel Bergs
78
Hotel Felicia
81
Hotel Gutenbergs
79
Hotel Neiburgs
78
House of Blackheads 64
I love you
46
Index Caf
38
Indian Tikka House
32
Innocent Caf
25
Jakob Lenz Guesthouse 82
Jautr lapsa
47
Jews in Latvia Museum 60
Jockey Club
51
Js Bagels
27
Jrmala 17
Kabuki 37
Kayaking in Riga
66
Key to Riga
40
KGB Building
67
K|I|D 34
Kilimanjaro 34
Kiwi Bar
47
KKC 47
Kavas lapa
38
Klondaika 54
Klondaika Tex-Mex
57
Kolonde. Our Stories 45
KOYA 16
Krogs Aptieka
47
Laacis 26
Labais krasts
42
La Belle poque
56
Labi 51
Labietis 50
Laima Chocolate Museum
60
La Rocca Revolution 50
Lste 42
Latvian Ethnographic
Museum 58
Latvian Photography
Museum 60
Latvian Railway Museum
61
Latvian Sports Museum 61
Lauku Ceotjs
83
LIDO 32
LIDO ALUS STA
40
Lidojo Varde
55
LIDO LEISURE CENTER 40
LIDO VRMANTIS 38, 40
Limonde 48
Live Riga Tourist
Information Centres
9
Lobby Bar
48
Lost Island
52
Lucavsala Park
17
Meating Place
39
Mentzendorffs House 61
Meaparks Beach
17
MiiT 39
Mio 34
Moloneys Pub
55
Monika Centrum Hotel 79
M Cafe
25
Museum of Pharmacy 61
Museum of Rigas History
and Navigation
62
Museum of War
62
Mute 34
MUUSU 35
Nabaklab 50
Naples 16
Narvesen Terrace
42
Natural History Museum
of Latvia
62
NB 54
Neiburgs 45
Nemiers 48
Old City Walls & Swedish
Gate 65
Old Shanghai
31
Olympic Casino
50
Omas briljanta istaba 48
One One
51
Optibet Sports Bar
56
OLD RIGA STREET REGISTER

11. novembra krastmala
I-1/J-2
13. janvra
I/J-3
Akl H-1
Akmens tilts
J-1
Alberta laukums I-3
Aldaru H-2
Alksnja I-2
Alunna F-2
Amatu H-2
Angliku H-1
Arsenla H-1
Aspazijas bulv. H/I-3
Atgrieu H-1
Audju I-2/3
Barona H-3
Basteja bv. (Z.A.
Meierovica) G/H-2
Bskapa gte
I-1
Brvbas G/H-3
Citadeles F/G-1
Doma laukums H-1
Elizabetes F-3
Freedom Mon. H-3
Gleznotju H/I-2
Grcinieku 1/2
Herdera lauk.
H-1
Inenieru H-3
Ja I-2
Ja sta
I-2
Jaunavu H/I-2
Jauniela H/I-1
Jkaba G/H-1
Jkaba lauk.
G-1
Jeruzalemes F-3
Kalju I-2/3
Kau H/I-2
Kalpaka bv.
G-2/3
niu H-2
Klostera H-1
Konventa Sta
I-2
Krmu I-1/2
Kronvalda bv. F/G-1
Kungu I-2
Laima clock
H-2
Laipu H-2
Lvu laukums
H-2
Mrstau I/J-2
Maz Miesnieku H-1
Maz Montu H/I-2
Maz Muzeja
H-1
Maz Pils
H-1
Maz Smilu
H-2
Maz Troku
H-1
Meistaru H-2
Merea G/H-3
Miesnieku H-1
Orthodox Cathedral 59
Osriss 24
Paddy Whelans Irish Pub &
Sports Bar
56
Pagalms 24
Parliament 65
Pelmei XL
31
Picas Meistars
43
Piens 51
PinUp Bar
52
Piramda 45
Pirosmani 32
Pizza Lul
32, 43
Planeta 37
Plein Air
42
Portofino 36
Powder Tower
65
Radisson Blu Daugava
Hotel 80
Radisson Blu Elizabete
Hotel 80
Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija
80
Radisson Blu Ridzene
Hotel 78
Restaurant 23/1
37
Restaurant Bellevue 45
Restaurant Elements 35
Ribs & Rock
30
Riga Airport Hotel ABC 82
RigaApartment 78
RigaApartment Hotel 78
Riga Art Nouveau
Museum 62
Riga Bourse Art Museum
62
Riga Castle
66
Riga Cathedral
58
Riga City Camping
81
Riga Hostel
83
Riga National Zoo
66
Riga Old Town Hostel 83
Riga Synagogue
60
Riverside Hotel
82
Rockabilly House
42
Rocket Bean Roastery 24
Rossini 36
Safie Turkish Bakery
27
Saulkrasti Beach
17
Singhs 32
Skanste 82
Skyline Bar
52
Sokrats 35
Sprnos 25
Spot Kaf
48
St. Alexander Nevsky

Orthodox Church
59
Stambula Kebabi
38
Star Lounge
52
Steiku Haoss
44
St. James Cathedral
59
St. Johns
59
St. Peters Church
58
Street Burgers
30
St. Saviours
59
Sun Museum
62
Sveiks, veik!
31
Tallink Hotel Riga
80
Tequila Boom
53
Terra 38
Thai Station
44
The Left Door Bar
53
The Museum of the
Occupation of Latvia
(1940 - 1991)
58
The Naughty Squirrel 83
TIA Hotel
82
Ticket To Heaven
16
Tokyo City
37
Town Hall Square
66
Traktieris 44
Travel 2 Riga
54
TurKebab 38
Univerisity of Latvia
Botanical Gardens
66
Uzbekistna 31
Vairk Saules
32, 35
Valmiermuias alus
40
Valtera restorns
40
Vrpa 48
Veci Beach
17
Vrmane Garden Park 63
Vest 48
Victory Pub
54
Warehouse District
66
Wellton Centrum Hotel &
SPA 80
Wellton Elefant Hotel 80
Wellton Gertrude Hotel 80
Wellton Old Riga Palace
Hotel 81
Wishes 26
Woki Toki
32
Wooden Riga
66
XIII 53
Zapte 56
Ze Donats
32
Zivju lete
44
Minsterejas J-2
Mucenieku H-2
Muitas G-1
Mku H-1
Palasta I-1
Pasta J-2
Peitavas I-2
Peldu I-2
Pterbazncas I-2
Pils H-1
Pils laukums
H-1
Prgas J-3
Pumpura F-2
Radio I-3
Raia bulvris G-2/H-3
Rtslaukums I-1/2
Reimersa G-2
Rdzenes I-3
Rozena H-1
Skru I-2
u H-2
Smilu H-1/2
Strlnieku laukums I-1
Tetra I-2/3
Tirgou H/I-2
Tora G-1/H-2
Troku H-2
densvada I-2
Vgnera H/I-2
Valdemra G-1/F-2/3
Vau H-2/I-3
Vecpilstas I-3
Vingrotju F-2
Z.A. Meierovica
(Basteja bulvris)
G/H-2
Zirgu H-2
Bus Station
J-3
Riga Info Centre I-2
Freedom
Monument H-3
Restaurant
R
with delicious cuisine,

biggest beer area,
b
Tapas bar,
craft fair
Open from
11 : 00
till last guest
We are waiting for you on crossroads of

Tirgou and Kau streets, Old Town
Reservations +371 22006800
www.spogulegle.lv
@spogulegle
Brvdabas atptas parks EGLE
free

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Discover the citys best

Explore Jrmala and

Spas, doctors and other useful information

Beds for backpackers and business executives

Gossip and rants from the editor

Arrival & Getting Around

Culture & Events 18

Hipster hangouts and coffee houses

From pork knuckle and sauerkraut to sushi

Bars, pubs and clubs

Museums, churches and the like

Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres

Sports & Leisure

A seaside city with lots of character

Getting to grips with Riga

Discover Rigas summer playground

How to get to your hotel

List of small features

Maps & Index

August - September 2015

Sales & Circulation

This issues cover photo reflects

8 Riga In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of

Arriving & Getting Around

Your chariot awaits on Rtslaukums

Arriving & Getting Around

AIRPORT INQUIRIES SERVICE

Arriving & Getting Around

August - September 2015

Arriving & Getting Around

* Lux Express ** ECOLINES

BUS STATION (AUTOOSTA)

Arriving & Getting Around

To avoid being swindled order a taxi by phone or use the

CENTRAL STATION (CENTRL STACIJA)

TOURS & TRAVEL

The train bridge over the River Daugava

August - September 2015

For a while Latvia had the dubious honour of holding the

Nearly 800 years of foreign occupation havent given Latvians

LATVIAN POSTAL SERVICE (LATVIJAS PASTS)

Latvia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (EET): GMT +2

Four of the Central Markets five pavilions

14 Riga In Your Pocket

Bring your swim trunks when you have cocktails at Andrejsala

Kids throw caution to the wind at Daugava Beach

BEACHES BEYOND RIGA

Culture & Events

CLUBS & OTHER VENUES

18 Riga In Your Pocket

MUSIC & EVENTS

Culture & Events

Ida Corr (Denmark). 10

19:00 Free music concerts at the

19:00 Free music concerts at the

August - September 2015

Culture & Events

The Dzintari Concert Hall can be easily reached