Polymer Folleto JR 400

Conditioning
Deposition
Moisturization
Film
Formation
Conditioning
Moisturization
UCARE Polymers
Cationic conditioners
that revitalize hair
and skin
Cationic conditioners that repair

hair and moisturize skin
The introduction of UCARE polymers over twenty years ago started a
revolution in the development of multifunctional personal care products.
The unique properties of UCARE Polymer JR pioneered the delivery of a
conditioner from a surfactant system, and conditioning shampoos were born.
Today, UCARE polymers (INCI Name: Polyquaternium-10) are at work in
a variety of personal care products as cationic, water-soluble, substantive
conditioners. Highly versatile, UCARE polymers are compatible with a wide
range of anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic systems. And, they are
formulation flexible to suit any conditioning requirement.
The key to the unique cationic conditioning properties of UCARE polymers
is their ability to repair damaged protein substrates. Used primarily in hair
care applications, they migrate directly to the point of damage to mend splitends. Hair that has been permed or bleached is greatly enhanced with just a
single application of a shampoo containing a UCARE polymer. A variety
of grades, viscosities and degrees of substantivity allows you to select the
functionality and aesthetics best suited to the goals of your product. Theres
even a UCARE polymer grade thats perfect for daily use shampoo products.
UCARE polymers have other advantages that have helped make them market
favorites. Because they are nonirritating to the eye, they are ideal for inclusion
in shampoos and facial cleansers. UCARE polymers also act as anti-irritants.
So, theyre more than just mild. They can actually reduce the irritancy of
surfactants and other harsh ingredients in your product.
But, UCARE polymers arent just for shampoos. In body washes, liquid soap
systems and bar soaps, the film forming properties of UCARE polymers can
enhance the efficacy of moisturizers. In addition, films formed by UCARE
polymers effectively reduce moisture vapor transmission.
Benefits of UCARE polymers:

In Shampoo and Hair Care Systems, UCARE polymers:
Are substantive
Mend split-ends and frizzies
Form clear, continuous, nontacky films
Bring excellent wet combability to hair
Improve appearance and feel of damaged hair
Provide controlled conditioning
Will not irritate the eyes
Reduce eye irritation of surfactants
Provide controlled delivery of insoluble actives
In Cleansing and Skin Care Systems, UCARE polymers:
Are substantive
Help reduce moisture vapor transmission
Deliver an elegant after-feel
Ameliorate inflammatory skin reactions
Mitigate Pseudofolliculitis barbae
Are nonirritating
Reduce the irritation potential of surfactants and other ingredients
Help restore barrier function of skin
Enhance the efficacy of UV absorbers
In Formulations, UCARE polymers:
Enable the formulation of clear products
Are compatible with a wide variety of surfactants
Exhibit non-Newtonian, pseudoplastic properties
Are nontoxic
Offer higher molecular weight grades that contribute to viscosity
Support natural label claims
Good-natured chemistry from a full

range of product grades
UCARE polymers have a cellulosic backbone derived from natural, renewable
resources. Most often, the starting material is cotton or wood. UCARE
polymers are polymeric, quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose
reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide.
Cellulose is a straight chain polymer consisting of anhydroglucose sugars
linked by -1,4 bonds. Each anhydroglucose sugar monomer has three
available hydroxyl (-OH) groups. Cellulose, in its original state, has a regular,
hydrogen-bonded, crystalline structure which is not readily water soluble.
The addition of the hydroxyethyl groups on the cellulose backbone alters
the crystalline structure and transforms the polymer into a water-soluble,
easy-to-use product.
Quaternization of hydroxyethylcellulose results in the creation of multiple
cationic sites to which the anionic head groups in a surfactant will be attracted.
Because shampooing or washing is typically done above the critical micelle
concentration (CMC) in order to remove dirt and oil from the hair or skin,
the UCARE polymers stay solubilized during the cleaning process. Upon
rinsing, however, the shampoo, soap or body wash is diluted near its CMC
and the polymer is deposited as the surfactant is rinsed away. Figure 2
illustrates this phenomenon.
Figure 1: The Idealized Structure

of UCARE Polymers
HO
HO
Cl-(H3C3)+N
O
O
HO
O
OH
HO
HO
O
HO
HO
O
O
OH
O
O
O
O
OH
HO
OH
O
HO
OH
O
O
O
HO
HO
OH
Figure 2: Mechanism of Dilution Deposition

(Polyquaternium-10 with Anionic Surfactant)
OH
Polyquaternium-10
Concentration
N+(CH3)3CI-
One Phase-Homogeneous
3
2
One Phase-Homogeneous
1
2-PHASE COMPLEX + SOLUTION
0
0.1
0.2
0.5
10
20
Critical Micelle Concentration

Source: Lochhead, The History of Polymers in Hair Care, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, Dec., 1988
Select from many levels of substantivity and cationic substitution

In order to meet the broad spectrum of usage situations, hair and skin types
and degrees of damage to the hair and skin, UCARE polymers offer a range
of functionality with a variety of grades. Their levels of viscosity, substantivity
and cationic substitution (indicated by the percent nitrogen on one polymer
backbone), enable you to combine variables for the appropriate aesthetics and
conditioning functionality desired by the target market segment. UCARE
polymers allow you to blend form and function in exactly the way you need
to give your product its best opportunity to gain a differential advantage in
the market.
In addition, all solutions of UCARE polymers are non-Newtonian and show
pseudoplasticity depending on the viscosity grade. Therefore, your product
will formulate easily, maintain the form you intended, and have excellent
aesthetic properties when applied.
Figure 3: Typical Properties of UCARE Polymers
in Aqueous Solutions
UCARE
Product
Type
Viscosity
Grade
Concentration
% by Weight
Viscosity
(cPs)
% Nitrogen
Polymer
Polymer
Polymer
Polymer
JR
JR
JR
JR
125
400
30M
30M
2
2
1
2
75175
300500
1,0002,500
25,00035,000
1.52.2
1.52.2
1.52.2
1.52.2
Polymer
Polymer
Polymer
LR
LR
LR
400
30M
30M
2
1
2
300500
1,2502,250
25,00035,000
0.81.1
0.81.1
0.81.1
Polymer
LK
300500
0.40.6
LVF Brookfield at 25C.
World-class
Hair Care Technology
World-class hair care technology

helps fine-tune the performance of
UCARE polymers in your products
Modeling deposition with Atomic Force Microscopy
Over the years, Amerchol Corporation has been at the forefront of developing
and utilizing innovative methods for determining the amount of polymer
adsorbed by a keratin substrate. These methods include radiotracer analysis,
streaming potential measurement and electron spectroscopy for chemical
analysis (ESCA). Recently, a new and powerful group of analytical scanning
probe microscopy methods for characterizing solid surfaces at the molecular
level has been harnessed by various industries. One of them, atomic force
microscopy (AFM), has proven extremely useful for imaging nonconductive
substances.
In AFM, a probe attached to a cantilever is used to measure the surface
topography of the sample which is scanned in the x, y plane. The displacement of the probe tip, whether in direct contact or tapping mode, is detected
by a reflected laser beam and a photodiode. The feedback voltage provides
the topographical (z) data. The AFM method is an exciting way to map
polymeric films.
Figures 4 and 5: AFM Studies of Polymer Deposition
UCARE Polymer JR
UCARE Polymer LK
Utilizing AFM techniques, analysis of polymer deposition on negatively charged

mica surfaces clearly demonstrates that UCARE Polymer JR lies flatter against the
surface than the UCARE Polymer LK because of the stronger bonding mechanism
of the UCARE Polymer JR.
Because hair and skin by nature have a topography all their own, the study
of polymer deposition can be difficult. The scientists at Amerchol searched
for a smooth material to which polymer films could be applied. Freshly
cleaved mica became the surface of choice on which to examine polymer
deposition. Mica has a net negative charge like hair or skin, but it presents a
molecularly smooth surface that enables scientists to study the deposition
profile of polymer films more readily than on hair and skin.
Analysis of AFM data in Figures 4 and 5 shows how different polymers
deposit and bond to the negatively charged surface. UCARE Polymer JR
6
deposits on the surface in a very flat manner. This indicates a strong bond to
the surface because of the higher degree of cationic substitution due to the
higher number of cationic sites of UCARE Polymer JR. Examining a
UCARE polymer that has a lower level of cationic substitution and
substantivity, like UCARE Polymer LK, shows a more irregular topography
that would indicate weaker bonding to the surface. This irregular topography
indicates a molecular tangling to the cellulosic backbone of the normally soft
polymer. This would provide rigidity that will enhance the body of the hair
and that may translate into styling or fixative properties. Subjective salon tests
using a shampoo containing UCARE Polymer LK confirmed this light
styling property.
Electrokinetic testing assists polymer selection

Electrokinetic testing used to determine the desorption of a cationic material
from hair by measuring the zeta potential (mV) of the hair surface, proves
that there are different levels of substantivity among the members of the
UCARE polymer line.
Figure 6: Electrokinetics of UCARE polymers

30
25
20
15
mV
10
5
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
-25
-30
0
10
20
Rinse Time (Minutes)
30
UCARE Polymer JR-30M
Hydroxyethylcellulose
UCARE Polymer JR-400
Control Hair
UCARE Polymer LK
Hair has a negative charge on its surface. This is evidenced by the -27mV
reading on the surface of the control hair in Figure 6. Treatment of the hair
with a positively charged cationic polymer substantially changes the surface
charge from negative to positive, illustrating polymer adsorption. The graph
in Figure 6 indicates the UCARE Polymer LK, while delivering substantive
conditioning effects, has less of an affinity for the anionic substrate (hair)
than UCARE Polymer JR-400 upon application and through sustained
rinsing. UCARE Polymer JR-400 has less of an affinity for the hair than
7
World-class
UCARE Polymer JR-30M. The performance of the UCARE Polymer LR

family would fall between the UCARE Polymer JR family and UCARE
Polymer LK. This is due to the levels of cationic substitution for the different
UCARE polymers. Based on their positive zeta potential, all are still
substantive. Uncharged hydroxyethylcellulose, the basic starting material of
the UCARE polymer line, exhibits a lack of substantivity and minimal
changes in the hair surface charge.
Clearly, this data demonstrates the different conditions under which each of
the UCARE polymers will perform best. For virgin hair, or hair that is not
damaged, where only light conditioning is required, UCARE Polymer LK
would be the conditioning ingredient to include in your formulation. Also,
UCARE Polymer LK is ideal for daily use shampoos because its more easily
removed from the hair. Of course, UCARE Polymer JR and UCARE
Polymer LR are still the conditioning ingredients of choice to deliver the
mending required to make damaged, permed, bleached or treated hair look
and feel healthy and natural.
Outstanding abilities to mend split-ends

Mending split-ends is one of the unique properties displayed by all members
of the UCARE polymer family.
In order to measure split-end mending, individual strands of virgin brown
hair containing split-ends were mounted on a plastic stand for each shampoo
tested. Each hair was then shampooed by inserting the individual hair into an
eye dropper containing the test formulation. The strand was then rinsed with
distilled water from a squeeze bottle and the process repeated to simulate the
normal shampooing procedure.
The hairs were examined immediately by hand lens for mended split-ends,
and again after drying for one hour at 50C (122F). To simulate combing,
each hair was tapped ten times with a spatula and the number of splits still
mended was recorded. After one hour at room temperature, the hairs were
examined again.
Before UCARE Polymer
A triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (TEALS) shampoo without a UCARE

polymer was included as a control. The results of this study are given in
Figure 7. The tested members of the UCARE polymer family (UCARE
Polymer JR-30M and UCARE Polymer LR-30M) proved equally effective
in mending split-ends in either the anionic or amphoteric surfactant system.
So whichever grade of UCARE polymer you might include in your product,
you can still deliver the promise of mending split-ends.
The micrographic photos on the left visually confirm the ability of
UCARE polymers to mend split-ends.
After UCARE Polymer
Figure 7: Single Hair Split-End Mending

with UCARE Polymers LR and JR
Percent Mended
Sample
Immediately
After Tapping
1 Hour After Tapping
UCARE Polymer LR-30M
100
100
100
100
100
100
UCARE Polymer LR-30M
100
100
100
100
100
100
100
70
70
Anionic Shampoos (TEALS Type)
Amphoteric Shampoos
Control Shampoo
Control Shampoo Formula
Component
Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate
High Purity Coconut Diethanolamide
Water
% by Weight
20
2
78
To further support and understand these results, we investigated the surface

deposition of UCARE Polymer JR using electron spectroscopy for chemical
analysis (ESCA). The data revealed very interesting substantivity behavior.
The surface composition of the hair samples show higher quaternary
nitrogen levels on the tip of the hair as compared with the root.
Inspection of the high resolution data confirmed preferential polymer
adsorption at the tip ends. This differential adsorption behavior is
due to the greater availability of ionic attachment sites on the tip of
the hair. Higher mechanical damage due to combing and exposure
is another reason for greater tip end adsorption.
Measuring relationships between polymer deposition

and surfactant selection
The type of surfactant you combine with UCARE polymers can affect
the degree of polymer deposition on the hair or skin. While the amount
of polymer deposition can be controlled by selecting the appropriate grade
of UCARE polymer, a similar lowering of deposition can be achieved by
changing the surfactant used in your system.
This is particularly evident with shampoos, where the impact of various
surfactants can be determined quantitatively by a radioisotope technique.
The deposition profiles for UCARE Polymer JR-400 in
a variety of surfactant systems are shown in Figures 8
and 9 (page 10). Virgin brown and bleached hair were
tested in order to determine if hair type and condition
had any effect on the deposition from similar systems.
World-class
Figure 8: Deposition Profile of UCARE Polymer JR-400

on Virgin Brown Hair in Various Surfactant Systems
1.2
Uptake (g/mg)
1.0
0.8
0.6
0.4
Nonionic Surfactant
Imidazoline Amphoteric
0.2
50/50 Imidazoline Amphoteric/TEALS

EO SULFATE
TEALS and Betaine
0
1
Shampoo Cycles
Figure 9: Deposition Profile of UCARE Polymer JR-400

on Bleached Hair in Various Surfactant Systems
10
Uptake (g/mg)
Imidazoline Amphoteric
Nonionic Surfactant
50/50 Imidazoline Amphoteric/TEALS
Betaine
EO Sulfate
TEALS
0
1
Shampoo Cycles
10
The highest level of polymer deposition occurs with nonionic and imidazoline amphoteric surfactants. Anionics all give consistently lower deposition
of polymer. A 50:50 blend of anionic TEALS and imidazoline amphoteric
gives a deposition pattern much closer to the TEALS curve than the high
deposition imidazoline amphoteric.
These findings indicate that the amount of polymer deposition on hair can
be controlled by the selection of the surfactant system, and that products
such as shampoos and body washes can be tailor-made for a given type of
hair or skin. In general, for bleached or otherwise damaged hair, UCARE
polymers should be used in an imidazoline amphoteric surfactant system
to achieve maximum conditioning effects. For oily hair, where minimal
deposition of the polymer would be desirable, an alkyl ether sulfate or
TEALS/betaine type system should be used.
When using anionic surfactants, care must be taken to maintain the proper
ratio between the surfactant and the UCARE polymer. Anionic-cationic
combinations in stoichiometric ratios are incompatible, usually leading to
insoluble precipitates. A ratio of about 5:1 anionic surfactant to UCARE
polymer, however, produces clear solutions. Thus, anionic surfactants can
generally be used with UCARE polymers without difficulty, as long as the
surfactant concentration is in sufficient excess.
Understanding thickener relationships to

achieve ideal clarity and pourability
The impact of UCARE polymers on the appearance, rheology and aesthetics
of a typical shampoo product with gel-like structure was compared with other
polymeric conditioners. In our study, we used a combination of 8% sodium
laureth sulfate, 2% cocamidopropyl betaine and 2% decyl glucoside as the
surfactant base of the system. All systems contained 0.5% sodium chloride.
Figure 10 (page 12) shows that in products where PEG-150 distearate or
lauramide DEA was used as the thickener, high molecular weight UCARE
polymer enhanced the appearance and rheology of the test system better
than Polyquaternium-7 or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. In systems
where PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate was used as the primary thickener, all
grades of UCARE polymer produced clear products, while the inclusion of
the Polyquaternium-7 made the final product slightly hazy and the guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride made the product hazy. In a gel-like
system containing 1% PEG-150 distearate, all tested grades of UCARE
polymers formed smooth gels. The guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
and Polyquaterinum-7 formed stringy or choppy gels, respectively.
The conclusion is clear. In todays shampoo and shower gel products,
UCARE polymers are clearly superior in delivering the appearance, rheology
and aesthetics that consumers expect from quality brands.
11
Figure 10: Effect of 0.2% Polymer in Combination

With Various Thickening Agents
Thickener
60000
stringy gel
smooth gel
choppy gel
PEG-150 DS
40000
30000
smooth
liquid
20000
No Polymer
smooth
liquid
liquid
pourable gel
high viscosity liquid
hazy viscous liquid
sl. hazy
viscous liquid
hazy liquid
hazy liquid
Polymer
pourable gel
viscous liquid
liquid
PEG-55 PG
Oleate
LDEA
UCARE
Polymer JR-30M
10000
GLUCAMATE
DOE-120
PQ-7
smooth
liquid
G-HPTC
Viscosity (cPs)
50000
Contains 1% thickener in an 8% SLES/2%

cocamidopropyl betaine/2% decyl glucoside
surfactant system.
12
UCARE polymers help skin stay

smooth, moist and healthy
Keeping Skin
Smooth and Moist
When it comes to keeping skin in top condition, nothing tops the

conditioning power of UCARE polymers. Their substantivity to the skin
translates into a protective film that not only leaves skin feeling smooth and
silky, but helps the skin maintain moisture and combat the harmful defatting
effects of soaps and the environment.
Todays UCARE polymers fully support nonanimal testing claims. While
much of the early work in assessing the performance of UCARE polymers
was done on calf and rat skin, all recent testing has been done on humans.
Since these early tests were done in the 1970s, nonanimal testing claims can
still be made.
While the AFM studies on mica can be projected to prove the substantivity
of UCARE polymers on skin, direct skin testing confirms the presence and
longevity of UCARE polymers on skin even under harsh conditions. A lotion
containing 0.2% C14- tagged UCARE Polymer JR was rubbed into calfskin
swatches. After drying, the swatches were immersed in a 0.1% solution of a
commercial dishwashing detergent at 50C (122F). At the intervals listed
in Figure 11, the swatches were withdrawn for assay, using the liquid
scintillation counting technique.
Figure 11: Substantivity of UCARE Polymers

Under Harsh Conditions
Time of Immersion
(minutes)
Percent of UCARE Polymer JR

Retained on the Skin
100%
10
98
30
83
60
40
90
40
The staying power of UCARE polymers enables you to formulate creams,

lotions, soaps, body washes, and cleansing cloths that deliver long-lasting
benefits to your customers. In formulations containing active ingredients,
such as antibacterial soaps, UCARE polymers may improve the long term
efficacy of the active ingredient. Other tests prove the effectiveness of
UCARE polymers in delivering multifunctional benefits like reduction of
moisture vapor transmission and irritation.
13
Keeping Skin
Smooth and Moist
Keeping moisture where it belongs

UCARE polymers have a positive effect on the barrier function of skin by
lessening its degradation and providing a substitute when the natural barrier
is lost and needs time to rejuvenate.
Moisture vapor transmission (MVT) experiments were conducted in vitro
with special precautions taken to maintain the integrity of the stratum
corneum membranes throughout the testing. Each membrane was sandwiched between two pieces of plastic screen. The subject membranes were
suspended in a 500 ml beaker in which a strong soap solution was gently
stirred. Upon removal, the membranes were rinsed by immersion in three
successive beakers of tap water and then air dried.
Diffusion cells were constructed from spherical O-ring joints (15 mm ID) by
cutting and sealing one side of the joint to provide a reservoir 2 cm deep.
The reservoir was stuffed with tissue paper to prevent splashing, and 2 ml of
distilled water was added. A moistened membrane was then placed across the
reservoir, followed by the O-ring and the opposite side of the joint. The
entire unit was then clamped and placed in a desiccator over CaSO4. The
mass of each cup was measured at 24 hour intervals until the mass loss per
unit time became constant. This required three to five days.
Figure 12 presents MVT rates of the skin after exposures to tap water and
solutions of UCARE Polymer JR-400. Figure 13 (page 15) shows similar data
after the skin was exposed to soap and then treated with solutions of UCARE
Polymer JR-400. It is apparent that the UCARE polymer reduces damage to
the barrier function of the skin caused by either exposure to water or soap.
It is also clear that a UCARE polymer incorporated into a liquid soap, body
wash, shower gel, bath product, or soap bar can be deposited on the skin to
prevent loss of moisture and that creams and lotions formulated with
UCARE polymers can restore damaged skin to good health.
Figure 12: Effect of UCARE Polymer JR

on Moisture Vapor Transmission
Treatment
Moisture Vapor
Transmission mg/cm2/hour
Control (average of 3)
4 Hours in Tap Water, 23C
0.49
16 Hours in Tap Water, 23C
0.53
1 Hour in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C
0.18
6 Hours in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C
0.22
16 Hours in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C
0.20
1 Hour in 1.0% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C
0.20
Tests on Neonatal Rat Stratum Corneum
14
0.180.026
Figure 13: Effect of UCARE Polymer JR

on Moisture Vapor Transmission
Treatment
Moisture Vapor Transmission mg/cm2/hour
5X Tap Water (average of 2)
0.260.085
Soap (2.3% in Tap Water)

1X Soap (average of 3)
0.520.20
5X Soap (average of 3)
2.830.15
Soap (2.3% in Tap Water), Then Polymer JR-400

1X Soap then 1 hour UCARE Polymer JR-400 (0.1%)
(average of 2)
0.350.1
1.3
1.0
Tests on Neonatal Rat Stratum Corneum
Note: X = 10 minutes at 4050C, 2 minutes rinse, air dry.
Combat the effects of harsh surfactants

UCARE polymers have the ability to moderate the defatting effects of
alkaline systems, either by incorporation into those systems or by treatment
after exposure.
In a study on detergent dermatitis, various concentrations of aqueous
solutions of UCARE Polymer JR-400 were applied to test sites on the
forearms of ten subjects each day for five days.
Note: This study was conducted in

December when reactions to anionic
detergents are severe. A pilot study
done in early November during an
unusually mild period showed peak
reactions of about 2.
Figure 14: Moderation of SLS Reaction by Pretreatment

with UCARE Polymer JR Solutions
Control
0.1%
Polymer JR
0.25%
Polymer JR
0.5%
Polymer JR
1.0%
Polymer JR
2.0%
Polymer JR
Subject
10
Average
3.7
3.5
3.6
3.5
3.4
3.2
2.0
1.7
1.3
0.8
3.8 3.8
Key: Reactions were graded from 0 to 4 (S = scaling or dryness; R = redness).

5% SLS patched 1 hr./day for 5 days. Evaluated on 7th day. Winter conditions.
15
Keeping Skin
Smooth and Moist
After the solution dried, a 1-inch square of nonwoven cloth moistened with
5% aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was applied for one hour under
occlusion. A control site on each participant did not receive the pretreatment
with UCARE Polymer JR-400 prior to application of the SLS cloth. Three
days after the fifth treatment/exposure, the skin sites were evaluated for
scaling and redness. Figure 14 (page 15) details the results obtained. A 1%
solution of UCARE Polymer JR-400 was able to reduce the inflammatory
response by about 50%. Only very mild dermatitis occurred on those sites
pretreated with a 2% solution.
In a separate study, UCARE Polymer JR-400 solutions were applied
immediately after each one-hour exposure to SLS. Here, too, the inflammatory
reactions were lessened with 1 and 2% solutions of UCARE polymer. The
protective effect, however, was somewhat less than pretreatment, even
though the films formed by UCARE polymers persisted on the skin between
exposures to the SLS.
In other studies, UCARE polymers were found to alleviate the dryness
and irritation caused by depilatory creams and suppress the allergic response
to Rhus (poison ivy) dermatitis. And, because UCARE polymers form
substantive films, their use in enhancing the effectiveness of sunscreens and
waterproof cosmetics deserves further examination.
16
Formulating with
UCARE polymers
Cationic polymers, like UCARE polymers,
will interact with anionic surfactants and
form a complex, which at a certain ratio
will precipitate out of solution. To facilitate
incorporation in the manufacture of
surfactant-based systems, such as a
shampoo, liquid soap or body wash, first
prepare a pre-mix solution of the UCARE
polymer in room temperature water. Then
add that solution to the surfactant. As the
cationic-anionic complex is formed, the
excess surfactant immediately solubilizes
the complex. This method avoids visible
signs of the creation of the complex and
shortens the dissolution time of the
polymer. If the surfactant were added to
the polymer solution, the complex
formed would be much more visible
and the dissolution time would be
much greater.
More information about

UCARE polymers
The formulations on the following
pages provide examples of how
UCARE polymers work in a variety
of products. Also listed are a number
of resources from which you can
obtain more information about
UCARE polymers and the various
testing methods described in
this brochure.
17
Hair Care
Formulations
Frequent Use Shampoo - E941-129-10

Description: This pearlescent shampoo provides gentle
cleansing with protective conditioning. UCARE Polymer
JR-400 and GLUCAM E-20 have been included for
conditioning and humectancy, respectively. GLUCAMATE
DOE-120 thickens this mild cleansing system which
contains cocoamphodiacetate and sulfosuccinate.
Conditioning Shampoo - E911-010-4M

Description: This clear, pale yellow, 2-in-1 conditioning
shampoo is suggested for use on dry, damaged hair. A
combination of UCARE Polymer LR-30M, SOLULAN
L-575 and GLUCQUAT 125 were added for conditioning
and foam quality enhancement. UCARE Polymer LR-30M
and GLUCAMATE DOE-120 improve mildness.
GLUCAMATE DOE-120 also contributes to the viscosity
of this surfactant system.
Typical Viscosity: 4,300 cPs (20C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm)
pH: 6.0
Formula
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% active)
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (50% active)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active)
UCARE Polymer LR-30M (Polyquaternium-10)
GLUCQUAT 125 (Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10
Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride)
SOLULAN L-575 (PEG-75 Lanolin)
GLUCAMATE DOE-120
(PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate)
Deionized Water
Citric Acid
Preservative and Fragrance
25.00%
5.00
10.00
0.30
2.00
1.00
1.50
55.20
q.s.
q.s.
Procedure: Prepare a premix solution by dispersing UCARE

Polymer LR-30M in water with agitation. Begin heating to
5060C. Add the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 to the premix
solution, stirring until dissolved. Remove heat. Combine
the surfactants. Add the premix solution to the surfactant
mixture. Add the remaining ingredients one at a time, waiting
for each ingredient to dissolve before adding the next one.
Adjust the pH to 6.0 with the citric acid.

pH: 6.5
Formula
Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and)
GLUCAMATE DOE-120
Deionized Water
UCARE Polymer JR-400 (Polyquaternium-10)
GLUCAM E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20)
Sodium Chloride
Citric Acid
1.00
1.50
84.30
0.25
1.50
0.45
q.s.
q.s.

Polymer JR-400 in the water with agitation. Begin heating to
5060C. Add the premix solution to the surfactant mixture.
Add the GLUCAM E-20. Add preservative and fragrance.
Adjust the pH to 6.5 with the citric acid.
Zero VOC Hair Spray - T66-79-2
Description: UCARE Polymer JR-125 provides sheen and
slip to the hair. KYTAMER PC serves as the hair fixative
in this natural, water-based hair spray.
Formula
KYTAMER PC (Chitosan PCA)
Dimethicone Copolyol
Deionized Water
Procedure: Add ingredients at room temperature
with agitation.
18
7.00%
3.00
0.35%
0.02
0.15
99.48
q.s.
Daily Use Shampoo - E921-137-5

Description: UCARE Polymer LK provides the conditioning
mechanism in this pearlescent shampoo to leave hair tanglefree, manageable and ready for styling. The basic surfactant
system is thickened by GLUCAMATE DOE-120. GLUCAM
E-20 is added for humectancy, and will also improve the feel
and foam wetness properties.
Conditioning Creme Rinse - T55-101-1
Description: This creme rinse formula is enhanced by the

conditioner, UCARE Polymer JR-30M, which is substantive
to the hair. CELLOSIZE Polymer PCG-10 is added to
build viscosity.
pH: 6.5
Formula
Formula
CELLOSIZE Polymer PCG-10

(Hydroxyethylcellulose)
UCARE Polymer JR-30M (Polyquaternium-10)
Glycol Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
PEG-100 Stearate
Stearalkonium Chloride
Citric Acid
Deionized Water
Preservative

Glycol Distearate (and) Sodium Laureth
Sulfate (and) Cocamide MEA (and)
Laureth-10 (40% active)
GLUCAMATE DOE-120
Deionized Water
UCARE Polymer LK (Polyquaternium-10)
Sodium Chloride
Citric Acid
30.00%
10.00
1.00
1.50
55.15
0.45
1.50
0.40
q.s.
q.s.

Polymer LK in the water with agitation. Begin heating to
5060C. Add the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 to the premix
solution, stirring until dissolved. Combine the surfactants.
Add the premix solution to the surfactant mixture. Add the
GLUCAM E-20 and other ingredients. Adjust the pH to
6.5 with the citric acid.
0.50%
0.50
0.50
2.00
0.50
1.00
1.00
0.05
93.95
q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-30M and the

CELLOSIZE Polymer PCG-10 in room temperature water
with agitation. Heat to 7075C. In a separate container add
the glycol distearate, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and the
PEG-100 stearate and heat to 70C. When this separate
mixture is at 70C and uniform, slowly add it to the polymer
solution. Mix until uniform. Add the stearalkonium chloride,
citric acid and preservative. Mix until uniform. Cool to room
temperature with agitation.
High Gloss Styling Gel - T68-5-1

Description: A clear, viscous gel containing CELLOSIZE
HEC QP 52000H which serves as the gelling agent. The
incorporation of KYTAMER PC in conjunction with
UCARE Polymer JR-30M provides the holding properties.
GLUCAM E-20 and KYTAMER PC impart gloss.
Formula
Deionized Water
CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H
98.05%
1.50
0.25
0.10
0.10
q.s.
Procedure: Dissolve the CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H in

water at 20C with good agitation, then heat to 70C. Add
the remaining ingredients in the order listed, allowing enough
time for solution formation between steps while maintaining
the temperature at 70C. Cool to room temperature and add
the preservative and fragrance.
19
Skin Care
Formulations
Enriched Hand Lotion - T55-63-3

Description: White, glossy, medium viscosity lotion.
UCARE Polymer JR-125 is a substantive polymer which
contributes to the intensive conditioning of the skin.
Formula
Moisturizing Lotion - T63-36-1

Description: This lotion moisturizes the skin with a softness
that lasts through several washings. UCARE Polymer JR-30M
delivers substantive conditioning to the skin. PROPAL NF
leaves a water-repellent film on the skin. PROMULGEN G
and PROMULGEN D bring body to the formulation and act
as primary emulsifiers.
Formula
Oil Phase
Mineral Oil
PROMULGEN G
(Stearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20)
PROMULGEN D
(Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20)
PROPAL NF (Isopropyl Palmitate)
Dimethicone (100 cs)
Water Phase
UCARE Polymer JR-30M (2% aqueous)
(Polyquaternium-10)
Deionized Water
Glycerin
5.0%
3.0
3.0
2.0
1.0
25.0
58.0
3.0
q.s.
Procedure: Prepare a 2% aqueous solution of UCARE

Polymer JR-30M, by adding the polymer to water at room
temperature with agitation. When dispersed add glycerin and
the remaining water and heat to 75C. Heat the oil phase to
75C. Add the water phase to the oil phase at 75C with rapid
agitation. Continue mixing and cool to room temperature.
Water Phase
Propylene Glycol
Triethanolamine (99%)
Deionized Water
Oil Phase
AMERCHOL C
(Petrolatum and Lanolin and Lanolin Alcohol)
Cetyl Alcohol
PROMYR (Isopropyl Myristate)
Stearic Acid, xxx
Mineral Oil, 70 vis.
Glyceryl Stearate
Myristyl Myristate
0.25%
4.80
0.95
84.00
0.50
0.40
2.40
2.90
2.40
1.00
0.40
q.s.
Procedure: Heat oil phase to 70C. Separately, add the

UCARE Polymer JR-125 to the water. When hydrated, add
the remaining water soluble ingredients and heat to 70C.
Add the water phase to the oil phase with vigorous agitation.
Continue to mix to 35C.
Skin Smoother - T68-21-1
Description: Clear, viscous, natural-based liquid with
substantive film-forming properties provided by
KYTAMER PC. UCARE Polymer JR-400 serves as the
conditioning agent, while GLUCAM E-10 offers humectancy.
CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H is added as a thickener.
Formula
Deionized Water
CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H
Deionized Water
Preservative
88.70%
0.40
10.00
0.40
0.25
0.25
q.s.
Procedure: Dissolve the CELLOSIZE HEC QP 52000H in

water at 20C with agitation, then heat to 70C. In a separate
container mix the KYTAMER PC with 10 parts water until
clear, heating gently to 70C. Add to CELLOSIZE HEC
solution. Add remaining ingredients in the order listed,
allowing time for solution formation while maintaining the
temperature at 70C. Cool to room temperature and add
preservative.
20
Eye Makeup Remover - E931-035-13
Clear Facial Cleanser - T82-267-5

Description: This novel, moderately priced formula uses
sodium cocoyl isethionate in a clear system. The UCARE
Polymer LR-400 and GLUCQUAT 125 act as a twoconditioner system. GLUCAM E-10 provides humectancy
while controlling viscosity. UCON 50-HB-660
mitigates the stringiness normally associated with ammonium
lauryl sulfate, yielding a very mild facial cleanser that feels
good when applied and conditions the skin while it cleans.
Typical Viscosity: 800 cPs (20C, RVT, 3, 20 rpm)
pH: 6.0
Formula
Deionized Water
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (80% active)
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (33% active)
UCARE Polymer LR-400 (Polyquaternium-10)
Sodium Xylenesulfonate (40% active)
UCON 50-HB-660 (PPG-12-Buteth-16)
DMDM Hydantoin
65.13%
2.5
13.30
14.30
0.10
1.25
0.02
1.00
2.00
0.40
Procedure: Add the sodium xylenesulfonate to the water with

stirring. Continue stirring while sprinkling in the UCARE
Polymer LR-400. Once the polymer is completely dispersed,
heat to 70C. When the polymer is hydrated, add the sodium
cocoyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine and ammonium
lauryl sulfate, in that order, waiting for each to dissolve before
adding the next. Once uniform, add the remaining ingredients
one at a time in the order listed. Allow to cool to at least
40C, then add the preservative.
Description: UCARE Polymer JR-125 delivers skin

conditioning properties in this clear, lightly foaming makeup
remover. GLUCAM P-10 is added for emollience.
GLUCAMATE SSE-20 imparts a skin-refreshing feel to
the product, while the GLUCAMATE DOE-120
contributes to emollience and mildness.
Formula
Deionized Water
GLUCAMATE SSE-20
(PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)
GLUCAMATE DOE-120
GLUCAM P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether)
Triethanolamine
Preservative
0.05%
92.95
1.50
1.50
1.00
3.00
q.s.
q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-125 in the

water. Heat to 45C and dissolve the GLUCAMATE SSE-20
and the GLUCAMATE DOE-120. Remove heat. Add the
remaining ingredients. Adjust pH to 7.0.
Toning Lotion and Skin Freshener - T55-115-2
Description: A base skin refining toner. This hydroalcoholic
lotion gives substantive conditioning to the skin due to the
inclusion of UCARE Polymer JR-125. GLUCAM E-10, a
humectant, helps overcome the drying effect of the alcohol.
Formula
Deionized Water
SD Alcohol 40
Fragrance
0.25%
77.75
20.00
2.00
q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-125 in room

temperature water with agitation. Heat to 6070C to
accelerate the hydration and produce a uniform solution.
Cool to room temperature. Dissolve the GLUCAM E-10 and
the fragrance in the alcohol. Add to the polymer solution.
Stir until uniform.
21
Body Care
Formulations
Conditioning Shower Creme - E921-133-10
Moisturizing Shower Lotion - E931-063-5

Description: The substantive UCARE Polymer JR-30M
brings long-lasting barrier protection and conditioning to
the skin in this moisturizing shower lotion. The mild
cleansing system is thickened by GLUCAMATE DOE-120.
CREMEROL HMG and GLUCAM E-20 are incorporated
for moisturization and humectancy. PROMULGEN D adds
creaminess to the product.
pH: 6.5
Formula
(Polyquaternium-10)
Deionized Water
PROMULGEN D
(Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20)
GLUCAMATE DOE-120
CREMEROL HMG
(Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides)
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
Triethanolamine
Citric Acid
20.00%
15.00
0.10
60.05
1.00
1.00
1.50
1.00
0.35
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Procedure: Heat half of the water to 75C and add the

PROMULGEN D. Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-30M
in the other half of the water while heating to 4550C. Add
the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 and the CREMEROL HMG
to the UCARE Polymer JR-30M solution. Once a uniform
solution has formed add this mixture to the PROMULGEN D
solution with gentle agitation. Add the remaining ingredients,
mixing until uniform. Cool to 35C while stirring. Adjust
pH to 6.5 with citric acid.
22
Description: This creamy, pearlescent, 2-in-1 shower creme

combines cleansing and conditioning properties. The
combination of GLUCQUAT 125 and UCARE Polymer
JR-30M provides immediate, perceptible and prolonged
conditioning. GLUCAM E-20 Distearate acts as a mild
surfactant to remove dirt and oil from the skin.
pH: 6.5
Formula
GLUCAM E-20 Distearate
(PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Distearate)
Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and)
GLUCAMATE DOE-120
Deionized Water
Sodium Chloride
Citric Acid
16.00%
10.00
1.50
2.00
1.25
0.25
65.55
3.00
0.45
q.s.
q.s.
Procedure: Disperse the UCARE Polymer JR-30M in the

water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C.
Add the GLUCAMATE DOE-120 and continue heating until
dissolved. Add the GLUCAM E-20 Distearate and continue
heating. Add the surfactants. Adjust the pH to 6.5. Add
the GLUCQUAT 125, sodium chloride, fragrance and
preservative.
Below is a list of resources for additional information about UCARE polymers,

the measurement techniques cited in this brochure and other related subjects.
1. Goddard, E. D., and Schmitt, R. L., Atomic Force Microscopy
Investigation into the Adsorption of Cationic Polymers, Cosmetics
& Toiletries, Volume 109, Number 4, pages 55-61, March 1994.
2. Goddard, E. D., and Schmitt, R. L., Atomic Force Microscopy
(Part II): Investigation into the Adsorption of Cationic Polymers,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, Volume 109, Number 12, pages 83-93,
December 1994.
3. Rigoletto, R., Moral, L., and Pavlichko, J. P., Differentiation of
Cationic Polymers Based on Modern Analytical Techniques,
Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, 1996.
4. Goddard, E. D., and Harris, W. C., An ESCA Study of the
Substantivity of Conditioning Polymers on Hair Substrates,
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, July/August 1987.
5. Faucher, J.A., Goddard, E. D., and Hannan, R. B., Sorption and
Desorption of a Cationic Polymer by Human Hair, Textile Research
Journal, September 1977.
6. Scott, G. V., Robbins, C. R., and Barnhurst, J. D., Sorption of
Quaternary Ammonium Surfactants by Human Hair, Journal of
the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, February 1969.
17. Faucher, J. A., and Rosen, M. R., Hair Conditioning by a

Chemical Comb, Cosmetics & Toiletries, August 1977.
18. Hutter, J. M., Clarke, M. T., Just, E. K., Lichtin, J. L., and Sakr, A.,
The Influence of Nonionic Cellulosic Polymers on the Uptake of
Polyquaternium-10 by Bleached Hair, Journal of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, September/October 1992.
19. Faucher, J. A., and Goddard, E. D., Influence of Surfactants on the
Sorption of Cationic Polymer by Keratinous Substrates, Journal of
Colloid and Interfacial Science, May 1976.
20. Goddard, E. D., Leung, P. S., and Padmanabhan, P. A., Novel
Gelling Structures Based on Polymer/Surfactant Systems, Journal
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, January/February 1991.
21. Goddard, E. D., and Braun, D. B., A New Surface Active Cationic
Cellulosic Polymer, Cosmetics & Toiletries, July 1985.
22. Goldemberg, R. L., Anti-Irritants, Journal of The Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, December 1979.
23. Barbeito, C., Pavlichko, J. P., and Maso, H. F., The Condition of
Color, SPC, November 1992.
7. Goddard, E. D., Substantivity Through Cationic Substitution,

Cosmetics & Toiletries, April 1987.
8. Goddard, E. D., Phillips, T., and Hanan, R. B., Water Soluble
Polymer - Surfactant Interaction (Part I), Journal of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, September 1975.
9. Goddard, E. D., Faucher, J. A., Scott, R. J., and Turney, M. E.,
Adsorption of Polymer JR on Keratinous Surfaces - Part II,
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, November 1975.
10. Faucher, J. A., and Goddard, E. D., Sorption of a Cationic
Polymer by Stratum Corneum, Paper Delivered at Society of
Cosmetic Chemists meeting, May 1975.
11. Edstrom, R. D., Yang, X., Lee, G., Evans, D. F., Viewing
Molecules with Scanning Tunneling Microscopy and Atomic Force
Microscopy, The FASEB Journal, October 1990.
12. Goddard, E. D., and Harris, W. C., Adsorption of Polymers and
Lipids on Stratum Corneum Membranes as Measured by ESCA,
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, September/October 1987.
13. Goddard, E. D., and Chandar, P., Deposition of Colloidal Silica as
an Indicator of Polymer Adsorption on Keratin, Colloids &
Surfaces, 34, 1988/89.
14. Faucher, J. A., Goddard, E. D., Hannan, R. B., and Kligman, A.
M., Protection of Skin by a Cationic Cellulose Polymer,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 1977.
15. Goddard, E. D., and Leung, P. S., Protection of Skin by Cationic
Cellulosics: In-Vitro Testing Methods, Union Carbide Document,
October 1982.
16. Goddard, E. D., and Leung, P. S., Cationic Cellulosics in Lotions,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, March 1980.
23
Conditioning
Deposition
Moisturization
Film
Formation
Conditioning
Moisturization
UCARE Polymers
For more information, complete literature, and product samples,
you can reach a Dow representative at the following numbers:
From the United States and Canada
In Europe
In Other Global Areas
call 1-800-FOR ELEGANCE

(1-800-367-3534)
fax 1-989-832-1465
toll-free + 800 3 694 6367
call +32 3 450 2240
fax +32 3 450 2815
call + 1-989-832-1560
fax + 1-989-832-1465
Toll free from Austria (00), Belgium (00), Denmark (00), Finland (990), France (00), Germany (00),
Hungary (00), Ireland (00), Italy (00), The Netherlands (00), Norway (00), Portugal (00), Spain (00),
Sweden (00), Switzerland (00), and the United Kingdom (00)
Or you can contact us on the Internet at:

www.amerchol.com
Amerchol Corporation is a subsidiary of The Dow Chemical Company

NOTICE: No freedom from any patent owned by Seller or others is to be inferred. Because use conditions and applicable laws may differ from one
location to another and may change with time, Customer is responsible for determining whether products and the information in this document are
appropriate for Customers use and for ensuring that Customers workplace and disposal practices are in compliance with applicable laws and other
governmental enactments. Seller assumes no obligation or liability for the information in this document. NO WARRANTIES ARE GIVEN; ALL IMPLIED
WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE EXPRESSLY EXCLUDED.
Published September 2002

Printed in USA
*Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company

Form No. 324-00004-0902 AMS

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What are the main benefits of UCARE polymers in shampoo and hair care systems?

What are the main benefits of UCARE polymers in shampoo and hair care systems?

What are the main benefits of UCARE polymers in cleansing and skin care systems?

What are the main benefits of UCARE polymers in cleansing and skin care systems?

Conditioning

Cationic conditioners that repair

Benefits of UCARE polymers:

Good-natured chemistry from a full

Figure 1: The Idealized Structure

Figure 2: Mechanism of Dilution Deposition

2-PHASE COMPLEX + SOLUTION

Critical Micelle Concentration

Select from many levels of substantivity and cationic substitution

LVF Brookfield at 25C.

World-class hair care technology

Figures 4 and 5: AFM Studies of Polymer Deposition

Utilizing AFM techniques, analysis of polymer deposition on negatively charged

Electrokinetic testing assists polymer selection

Figure 6: Electrokinetics of UCARE polymers

UCARE Polymer JR-30M

UCARE Polymer JR-400

UCARE Polymer JR-30M. The performance of the UCARE Polymer LR

Outstanding abilities to mend split-ends

Before UCARE Polymer

A triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (TEALS) shampoo without a UCARE

After UCARE Polymer

Figure 7: Single Hair Split-End Mending

1 Hour After Tapping

UCARE Polymer LR-30M

UCARE Polymer JR-30M

UCARE Polymer LR-30M

UCARE Polymer JR-30M

Anionic Shampoos (TEALS Type)

Control Shampoo Formula

To further support and understand these results, we investigated the surface

Measuring relationships between polymer deposition

Figure 8: Deposition Profile of UCARE Polymer JR-400

50/50 Imidazoline Amphoteric/TEALS

Figure 9: Deposition Profile of UCARE Polymer JR-400

Understanding thickener relationships to

Figure 10: Effect of 0.2% Polymer in Combination

Contains 1% thickener in an 8% SLES/2%

UCARE polymers help skin stay

When it comes to keeping skin in top condition, nothing tops the

Figure 11: Substantivity of UCARE Polymers

Percent of UCARE Polymer JR

The staying power of UCARE polymers enables you to formulate creams,

Keeping moisture where it belongs

Figure 12: Effect of UCARE Polymer JR

16 Hours in Tap Water, 23C

1 Hour in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C

6 Hours in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C

16 Hours in 0.1% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C

1 Hour in 1.0% UCARE Polymer JR-400, 23C

Tests on Neonatal Rat Stratum Corneum

Figure 13: Effect of UCARE Polymer JR

Moisture Vapor Transmission mg/cm2/hour

5X Tap Water (average of 2)

Soap (2.3% in Tap Water)