APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

At
PEARL GLOBAL Ltd, GURGOAN

Department of Fashion Technology

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

GANDHINAGAR

2013-2017

Submitted by:
VIJIT SAHU
B.F.TECH

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DECLARATION
I hereby declare that the Summer Internship Report submitted towards, partial
fulfilment of the program Bachelor of Fashion Technology is my original work and
no part of the project has been copied from any other reports or any other work
carried by someone else which has been submitted for any other degree/award.
However, any material taken from any other published source has been suitably
referred and acknowledged at various places.

VIJIT SAHU
BFT VII
(2013-17)

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all the people who have contributed
towards the successful completion of my project.
I want to express my special gratitude to my mentor Ms. Mayank Bhardwaj,
Merchandiser, PEARL GLOBAL LTD, Gurgaon for his constant support, guidance,
encouragement and much needed motivation. His sincerity, thoroughness and
perseverance has been a constant source of inspiration for me.
I would also like to thank Mr. AMAR TIWARI (College mentor), for giving his proper
guidelines in each and every step during internship.

I would also like to acknowledge the support rendered by whole Production team,
who in spite of their busy schedule, gave immense help and co-operation, which was
fruitful enough for my internship.

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CONTENT
1. Company

Overview
Company Profile
Corporate values & objectives
Business Divisions
Product Profile
Corporate Social Responsibility
Organisation Hierarchy

2. Departments

Merchandizing department
Fabric Sourcing department
Fabric Audit and Inspection department
Cutting department
Sampling department
CAD department
Fabric Testing
Accessory store
Sewing department
IE department
Washing department
Quality department
Finishing & Packing department

To Calculate and reduce Non-Productive Time in sewing line.

3. Projects
4.

Learning

COMPANY OVERVIEW

Pearl Global Industries Limited is an India-based company engaged in manufacturing

and exporting of readymade garments.

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The Company's segments include manufacturing; marketing, distribution, sourcing

and trading, and branding and retailing.
The Company manufactures and exports fashion garments to global brands. The
Company's product range includes knits, woven and bottoms, including basic and
complex designs. The Company offers its products in various categories, which
include men, women, kids, career wear and home furnishings.
The Company has manufacturing base across India, Indonesia and Bangladesh.

HISTORY
Pearl Global Industries, earlier known as House of Pearl Fashions incorporated as
Mina Estates Private Limited on July 5, 1989 under the Indian Companies Act, 1956,
as amended.
The name of the company was subsequently changed to House of Pearl Fashions
Private Limited by a special resolution of the shareholders of the company at an
extraordinary general meeting held on May 9, 2006.
The fresh certificate of incorporation consequent upon the change of name was
granted on June 19, 2006, by the Registrar of Companies (RoC), Delhi and Haryana,
located at New Delhi.
The company became a public limited company pursuant to a special resolution of
the shareholders of the company at an extraordinary general meeting held on June
28, 2006. Pursuant to this special resolution, the name of the company was changed
to House of Pearl Fashions Limited.
The certificate of incorporation to reflect the new name was amended on July 31,
2006 by the RoC.
In 2012 the company has changed its name from House of Pearl Fashions Ltd. to
Pearl Global Industries Ltd.

COMPANY PROFILE

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The company Pearl Global Industries Limited was established in 1987. The
owners of the company are Mr.Deepak Seth, Mr.Pallak Seth and Mr.Pulkit Seth,
they are the majority Shareholders. The Managing Director of the company is
Mr.Pulkit Seth. The Director of the company is Ms.Shefali Seth, who is the whole
time director. The President of the company is Mr.Mahesh Seth. The Mr.Kabir Seth.
Its postal address is Plot No. 446, Udyog Vihar Phase V, Gurgaon, Haryana. Total
work force in the company is over 1500. Annual Turnover of the company is 150
crores.

CORPORATE VALUES AND OBJECTIVES

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Pearl Global believes that any business conduct can be ethical only when it rests on
the nine core values of Honesty, Integrity, Fairness, Respect, Trust, Purposefulness,
Responsibility, Citizenship and Caring.
The essence of these commitments is that each employee conducts the Companys
business with integrity, in compliance with applicable laws and in a manner that
excludes considerations of personal advantage.
We do not lose sight of these values under any circumstances, regardless of the
goals we have to achieve. To us, the means are as important as the ends.

Milestones:
1987 Pearl Global started operations
1998 Establishment of international presence with incorporation of Norwest
Industries in Hong Kong
2002

PT Norwest, Indonesia started production setting up of sourcing office in

China
Setting up of sourcing office in China

2004 The company acquired import and distribution businesses in the US and the
UK and also consolidated overseas entities
2005 Setting up of sourcing office in Bangladesh
2006 Reorganization of group companies and consolidation of operations under
House of Pearl Fashions Limited
2007

The companys subsidiary signs a Collaboration agreement with DLF

Retail Developers Ltd. for development of its real estate property situated
on prime location on NH8, Gurgaon, measuring 9.20 acres.
The companys subsidiary ventures into real estate, infrastructure and
education activities.

House of Pearl Fashions has bagged orders for $ 7.5 million, Rs. 30 crore approx.,
from US buyers, including JC Penney/H & M/GAP/KOHLS. This is a substantial
growth over the last financial year, as these orders are equal to the entire year of
sales for this division.
2008 House of Pearl Fashions has through Multinational Textiles Group, Mauritius,
a whollyowned subsidiary of the company, entered into a Share Purchase
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Agreement for acquisition of 38% of ordinary shares of Nam Long Garment Joint
Stock Company, Vietnam.

Products:

Men's Wear
Women's Wear
Kids Wear
VISION

To be the most preferred vendor to the top global apparel brands and be ranked
amongst the top garment manufacturers in the world in terms of quality, service
standards and ultimately - customer satisfaction.

MISSION
Its mission is to continuously deliver shareholder value by enhancing their financial
performance through long-term and solid relationships with their customers.
They intend to achieve this by:

Establishing a diversified supply chain of manufacturing garments, to deliver

products as per global quality standards

Continuously striving towards maintaining their superior quality standards

Maintaining a level of freshness and strong appeal to all the garments they
design

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BUSINESS DIVISIONS

Design and development Over 30 designers working across the group

constantly provide latest design inputs on latest design trends internationally
and presentation of product ideas from across the globe gives the buyer a
sense of crosscountry styles of trends. It has got dedicated fabric
development and sampling unit in China and India.

Manufacturing It is currently operating ten modern ready to wear apparel

manufacturing facilities, of which seven are located in India, two in
Bangladesh and one in Indonesia.

Sourcing Hong Kong is one of the biggest hubs for garment sourcing
across the world.

Marketing It has integrated marketing and merchandising teams in Canada,

Europe, HK, UK, and US, closely interacting with existing and potential
customers at their doorstep.

Logistics and warehousing The company has warehousing, logistics and

distribution infrastructure in the UK and the US. It also offers services such as
logistics and transportation, garment processing, Ironing and storage, quality
control and reverse logistics.

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An Integrated Business Model

GLOBAL FOOTPRINT

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Subsidiaries:

India

Hong Kong

Pearl Global Ltd., North India

Pearl Global Ltd., South
India

Norwest Industries Ltd.

Norwest Industries Ltd.,
Simple Approach

Bangladesh

China

Norp Knit Industries Ltd.

Nor-Pearl Knitwear Ltd.
Norwest Industries Ltd.

Norwest Industries Ltd.

UK

USA

Canada

Depa International Inc., New

York
House of Pearl Fashions US
Ltd.
Depa International Inc., New
Jersey

Poeticgem Ltd., Canada

Indonesia

Poeticgem Ltd.
Pacific Logistics Ltd.

PT Norwest Industries Ltd

PEARL GLOBAL NORTH INDIA

The Company has six fully integrated manufacturing plants in Gurgaon, capable of
producing value added garments in woven & knitted fabrics.
The total factory area in North India covers more than 310,000 sq. ft. of space and
provides an efficient and spacious layout. The installed capacity on a single shift
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basis stands at ten million pc. Per annum. The factory is laced with the best garment
manufacturing & finishing equipment:
- Automatic Brother & Juki sewing machines for Woven and Pegasus for Knits
- Laundry with ability to deliver great washes & treatments
- Value addition through fully computerized embroidery machines of Barudan &
Tajima
- Integrated systems with EDI facility to provide online access to some of its key
customers.
The units specialize in casual wear dresses, ladies blouses in both woven & knits.
The company is serving the complex needs of some of the best retailers of the world.
To name a few, The Gap Inc., JC Penney, Kohls, Next, Macy's, & Esprit. The units
are fully compliant to local laws pertaining to health, safety & labour regulations and
are approved by some of the top retailers.

MAJOR BUYERS

PRODUCT RANGE
PRODUCT RANGE

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MENS WEAR
(PANTS,
SHIRT,
SHORTS)

WOMENS
WEAR
(BLOUSES,
DRESSES,

KIDS WEAR
(ALL
PRODUCTS)

HOME
FURNISHING

ACCESSORIE
S (BELTS,
CAPS)

PRODUCT PROFILE
COUNTRY

Factories

Annual Capacity

WOVEN SOFT SEPARATES

INDIA
4
INDONESIA
2
CHINA
1

8 Million Pcs.
5 Million Pcs.
2.5 Million Pcs.

CUT N SEW KNITS

INDIA
BANGLADESH
INDONESIA

1
2
1

5 Million Pcs.
6 Million Pcs.
3 Million Pcs.

SWEATER
BANGLADESH

3 Million Pcs.

BOTTOMS
INDIA
BANGLADESH

1
1

4 Million Pcs.
4 Million Pcs.

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

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Ethical Trading Initiatives (ETI)

Pearl Global ltd Fashions is acutely conscious of its responsibility towards industry,
environment and the society.
Their social initiatives range across education, charities and ethical trading.

Little Peoples Education Trust

Pearl Academy of Fashion, a premier institute imparting education in the field of
fashion and design. Has collaboration with Nottingham Trent University and LDT
Nagold to offer fashion and design programmes.
Pearl Retail School, a collaboration with The Friedman Consulting. Specializes in
training of personnel in Retail sector.
Pearl Business School set up in collaboration with Babson College, Boston. Imparts
education in the field of entrepreneurship and business management to graduates
and undergraduates.

Charitable Initiatives
Mina Seth Clinic, providing free medical treatment to the needy children.
Arpan, providing free tuitions and other educational aids to underprivileged children.
Supporting various charities relating to women and children by regularly donating
garments and fabric.

COMPANY HEIRARCHY BOARD

Chairman Mr.Deepak Seth

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Vice chairman Mr.Pallak Seth

Managing director Mr.Pulkit Seth
Vice President (operations) Mr.Anand Bhatia

DIVISIONAL HEADS
Cutting Mr. Sudhir Singh (Cutting Manager)
Stitching Mr. Altaf (A.G.M) & Mr. Kamlesh Raj (Senior Production Manager)
I.E Mr. Siddharth Puri (A.G.M)
Quality Mr. Amulya
Sequins Mr. Mohammed Abid
Finishing Mr. Avdesh Rai & Mr. Khan
Packing Mr. Manish Jadon
Store Mr. Surendra Mishra
SAP Mr. Nitin Thakur
Planning Mr. Kusuma Goyal
Merchandising Mr. Ashish Garg (G.M Merchandising)
HR Capt. Vinod Vaish

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ORGANISATION HIERARCHY

DEPARTMENTS
The garments division consists of the following departments:

Merchandising Department
Sampling Department

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Fabric Sourcing & Purchasing Department

Fabric Audit Department
Fabric Testing Department/Laboratory
Accessory Store Department
Production Planning & Control Department
CAD Department
Spreading & Cutting Department
Sewing/Production Department
Finishing & Packaging Department
Maintenance Department
Industrial Engineering Department
Washing Department

These departments work in coordination with each other for the purpose of fulfilling
the objective of quality and mass produced garments or Apparels.

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to
ensure the quality of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process
through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the
buyers. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish.
ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT

To look for the appropriate market

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To get the samples made according to the buyers specification

To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate

with them
Getting orders
Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval
To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production
Co-ordinating with the PPC and production

OBJECTIVE OF MERCHANDISER

To create market
Understanding buyers requirements
Sourcing of materials, fabrics
Select the range
Creating the product
Taking buyers approvals
Negotiation with buyer
Procuring the orders
Materializing the order
Execution the order
Coordination between production and production planning department
Dispatching the shipment

After shipment dispatching merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claims, profit
and subsequent orders. If buyer has any problem in quality of the product then it is
the responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer.

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FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT

In an export house, like Pearl Global, merchandising is a combination of business
and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products
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development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meets buyers
expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers
have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers,
overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and
get samples approved for fit, colour and quality. Communications with overseas and
domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and development of fabric and
yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other
departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out
delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that
merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for
the cost of production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the predevelopment stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely
to be incurred per piece.
These costs include general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost,
mark up cost etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a
final costing is done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.

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Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer

Costing

Sampling

Analyze fabric consumptionAnalyze

from CAD
cost of trimsObtain
and fabric
general sewing dataDevelop
from IED sample as per the tech pack

Prepare cost sheet from sample

Develop proto sample

Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval

Yes
Confirmation of order

No

Cost sheet reworked

Approval

Obtain PCD & detailsSource

from production
unit from
Bookconcerned
washing &dept
embroidery
capacityObtain
if required
trims & fabric
.
GSD from IED

Execution of order by entering details in ERP

Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

Forward the sample to buyer for approval

old preproduction meeting with the productionComments

unit
received from buyer should be incorporated and fit sample rew
Yes

No
Approval

Follow up with production

Submit
departments
required&documents
update
Offerthe
garments
tobuyer
documentation
for final
Follow
inspection.
dept
up on theTruck
payments
out for goods
Execute bulk order
End

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Basic activities required to be done:

Receiving the order from Buyer and other relevant samples and product

information.
Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams.
Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers.
Follow-up of sample approvals from Buyers and notifying comments if any to

respective teams.
Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and follow-up

for approval prior to the bulk production.

Conducting meetings required for the order preparation and order execution.
Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action

Calendar) across throughout processes.

Release of material requirements to sourcing function.
Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time.
Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs.
Handing over the folders and style information to PPC and IE for Calculations

and Tentative Planning

1. Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.

DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING SECTION

1) ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP:
This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The

buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with the information

regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility and the setting up of
delivery dates for the shipment.
This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyers

representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic

conversations.
The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the

developments taking place regarding the order.

The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the
merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other
departments.

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2) PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS:

The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the

particular order. This also includes the following :

-Fabric quality details
-Thread Details
-Finish Details
-Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc.
-Prints and Embroidery
-Trims like buttons, zippers
-Wash care labels
-Size labels
-Brand labels
-Packing Material details
-Hangtags
Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also

receive the Fabric consumption per garment for each size from the
sampling section, Thread consumption per garment from the Planning
department and the accessories requirement per garment from the
sampling department.
Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of
Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the requirement of all
the parts going into the making of the garment. Each of the material is
stated above is mentioned per garment.

3) COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:

The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the

sampling department.
The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the

relevant details.
The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising department

and the plan is given to the sampling section.

The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals

according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are sent
to the buyer for approvals only when they are approved by the
merchandising department.
The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising about the

types of samples required by the buyer.

The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and
makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes
made in all the required areas.

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4) INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED BY THE

BUYER:
The Technical Folder/Tec pack is the reference for each department whenever it
comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his
requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The
following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all the
buyers:
Size wise quantity
Colour Wise Quantity
Destination wise quantity
Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots
Total Order quantity
Cutting Details
Construction Sheet
Finishing and Packing Details
Specification Sheet
Measurement Chart
Fabric Details
1. GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
2. Fabric construction
3. Fibre types
4. Fabric width
5. Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
6. Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
7. Fabric Swatch
Trims Details
1. Button Size
2. Threads used
3. Thread ticket no.
4. Labels details
5. Trims Swatches

COSTING SHEET
The costing sheet is the addition of all the costs involved in the making of the
garment and then it is coated to the buyers. It contains per piece and the total cost
(of all the pieces). It includes the details like, cost of fabric, trims, washing,
embroidery, sampling, testing, freight, duty, insurance etc.
Basic costs while calculating costing are Factory costs

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Trim costs

Yield costs

Cost of embroidery

FACTORY COST: - Factory cost includes cutting cost, making cost, packing

cost. It depends basically on the style. The complex the style, higher the rate
proportions.
TRIMS COST: - Trims can be both local and imported. Imported trims can be

duty free or otherwise. It includes label cost, accessories cost, button cost,
Zipper cost, washing cost etc. Trims cost is taken including wastage. The
nominated supplier of trims of Pearl Global Ltd. Is AVERY DENNISON.
YEILD COST: - It is an estimation of average consumption of fabric. It is

decided by preparing a mini marker which includes wastage of fabric due to

laying, cutting, fabric defect, end cutting loss, marker loss. Average of 10%
extra margin is taken.
COST OF EMBROIDERY: - Cost of embroidery includes the machine
depreciation cost, and it is proportional to the number of stitches used. The
time taken from the coming of the order to the day of shipment is 2-3 months.
Basically this is the total processing time of the sample from approval of the
sample. 45 days are kept by the merchandiser for the production. Fabric is the
main cause of delay so merchandiser keeps few days for the safer side. The
merchandiser also coordinates with the Production Planning department,
Quality department, Fabric department, Production department, Finishing
department, washing department. The merchandiser also to keeps a track of
the styles and make sure everything moves as per order on time.

MANUFACTURING COST
The manufacturing costing is done according to the assumed SMV which is given by
IE viz. if the garment SMV is 6 min then actual manufacturing cost will be 60 i.e. 9-10
mark up is multiplied with SMV. The cost which is charged from buyer is 200 by
adding 25% profit.
Costing is done
Style-wise Costing
In pre-cost, includes actual fabric cost, trims cost and value added cost like
handwork, artwork, add a work, embroidery etc.

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Production Cost + Raw material Cost + Contribution

Pre-Cost
The costs involved in each process are
Stitching = 1.10 (piece charge) + 25% = Rs 1.55/garment
Cutting = Rs 2
Finishing = Rs 5
Direct Cost (Manpower Department wise) = Rs 10
Indirect Cost (Sub Department) = Rs 4
Overheads (Plant+ M/c rent+ Electricity+ Water + Fuel) = Rs 17-20
MERCHANDISE COST
When pattern master prepared the pattern and the sample is made according to the
pattern. Then mini- marker is prepared in CAD and average costing is being done.
The average costing is done by below formulae{Total length + margin (5cm)} * {Total width + Margin (5cm)}* GSM/ 10000 = A
A/no. of pieces = Total cost of the garment
Merchandise prepared the costing sheet including factory cost, Trim cost, Yield Cost
and embroidery cost. Then the costing sheet is send to the buyer and if the cost
satisfies the buyer then only order of that product is given.

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Industry Process Flow

Receive Package File From Merchandising
Department
Received OB And Machine Layout From IE
Received Plnning From PPD
Inspection Of Material By Store
Issuing Of Fabric To Cutting
Cut Panels Checking
Numbering And Bundling
Issuing To Sewing
Receive Trim From Store
Batch Setting
Make Size Set And Pilot Run
Follow Hourly Production Report
Generate Defect Analysis Report
Issuing To Finishing
Buttoning And Buttonhole
Bartack Making
Trimming
Trimming And Measurement Checking
Ironing
Final Checking
Presentation
Issue To Packing
Packing
Dispatch
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FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

Figure 1 Flow chart: sourcing and purchasing department

Start

Sampling

Technical analysis, Vendor evaluation/selection

Bulk
Receiving order from merchants

Technical analysis

Order Placement
If Ok

If not Ok

S/Off,L

Submit to buyer

Redo S/Off

Sampling yardage/ lab tests

Resubmission

Rate quotation from suppliers

Supplier selection

PO Review & P.O Confirmation

P.O Release to supplier

Final approval by buyer

Fabric receipt

Bulk

Co-ordinate with fabric audit & factory for quantity and quality ch

End

FABRIC AUDIT AND INSPECTION DEPARTMENT

The main objectives of this department are:

Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.

Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.
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Inspection is done on the following grounds:

100% shade segregation is done.

100% width segregation is done.
15% fabric inspection is done for defects.
10 15% shrinkage test for light weight
fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight

fabrics.
The
fabric

width form only.

Quantity is checked,

is

checked

in

full

whether

the

mentioned length of the roll is correct or

not.
Fabric Inspection

FABRIC INSPECTION
Samples approved by buyer to the merchandiser along with production file are
sent to the production unit. And fabric that may be either self sourced or sourced
through different channel as desired by the buyer is requested to proceed
production of the approved sample.
As the lots are received, inspection is done to ensure fabric is acceptable or not.
Basically, fabric is inspected for defects and quality checking purpose. For
checking defects, it is done manually by labours through 4 point system; And for
checking quality, Samples are cutted and sent to the merchandiser so to ensure
the quality of the fabric that is acceptable or not.

4 POINT SYSTEM
Size of Defect
3 or less
Over 3 but not over 6
Over 6 but not over 9
Over 9
Single Hole

Penalty Point
1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points
4 points

Max Points Charge in 1 Sq Mtr 4 Points

Acceptable in 100 Sq Mtr 40 Points
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Sticker Allowed for identification

Red Sticker
Blue Sticker
Green Sticker
Arrow Sticker

Weaving Defect
Processing Defect
Other Defects
Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

Formula 4 Point
Points / 100 sqm = _______________Points
x_3937_____________
Roll Length Mtr x Width in
Inch

Inspection of Fabric thans

of Fabric Roll

Inspection

The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the
cuttings are kept for reference.

Fabric audit and inspection department

No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

17

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Area Covered

(185 X 32)x4=23680 sqft

MIS

Excel Sheet

Machinery
Storage

1.) Fabric inspection Machine-3 (with meterage counter )

2.) Hydero Trolley -5
3.) Pliers-2
Racks-16

Tables

6 Inspection Table

Tube light

178

Fans

26

Compliance

Metal Free Zone

CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Process Flow Chart For cutting
File Received from
Merchant

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Approved PP Sample

Fabric / Trim Flow

Chart

Style R&D Size Set

CDR / CCR Approval

Spreading

Layer Checking

cutting

Sorting

Bundling

Quality Check

ok
Issue To Lines

SPREADING: The spreading tools and equipment are:

Spreading Tables
Shears
Pins
Weight Bars

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Spreading Manually

Before spreading the fabric on the table, a thick brown sheet is placed under the
bottom ply for better movement of the knife. The sheet is glued with a gum tape.
Measurement is taken using tape for marking line.
The lay height usually varies from 2 to 3 inches and the number of plies vary
according to the thickness usually from 75-100.Weight is placed on the fabric on both
the edges to avoid movement/distortion of the plies.
Different methods of spreading are used for different fabrics. Special care is taken for
spreading checks and stripes fabrics. Checks and stripes fabric are generally cut and
spread on fold for better line matching.
During spreading of check fabrics, pinning is done on the fabric at certain places to
prevent the plies from slipping and result in better check matching.

MARKING: Marking is done after the spreading of fabric. Pattern maker prepares
the patterns and it is placed on the top of the fabric for reference. Marking chalk
is used to mark the patterns that are placed.
For checks and stripes, manual marker is used. In case of solid dyed fabric,
computer aided marker (plotter) is used as marker.

CUTTING: The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the

pattern pieces in the marker plan. In achieving this objective, certain
requirements must be fulfilled. After marking, cutting master uses the markings
and cuts as per specifications.

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Straight Knife: This is the most commonly used method of cutting garments in the
industry. The basic parts of this knife
consist:

A base plate
A vertical blade with varying edge

characteristics
An electric motor over it
A handle for the cutter to direct the
blade
A Straight knife in action

Straight knife cutting machine is versatile and accurate enough for most of the
purposes. This is useful in cutting straight lines and gradual curves of large
components.
Band Knife: A Band knife comprises a series of three
or more pulley powered by an electric motor with a
continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them. One
edge of the blade is sharpened.
The principle of operation is different from straight or a
round knife in that the band knife passes through a slot
in the cutting table in a fixed position and the section of
lay to be cut moved past it.
Band
A band knife workplace may be so arranged that the operator either pushes or
pulls the section of lay towards the knife. It is used to cut tight curves.
NUMBERING: Numbering is done for easy identification of cut panels/parts. It is
a process of giving a serial number to each and every component (cut panel) of a
particular style in order to easily assemble all the components to from a garment.
FUSING: Fusing is the process of joining of the fabric and the interlining using
pressure and temperature according to the buyers specification. The main elements
of fusing are:
Temperature
Pressure
Time Period

34 | P a g e

Fusing is usually carried out in a specialized fusing press. The heat has to pass
through fabric to activate the resin and this requires time measured in seconds,
which varies according to the nature of the fabric and type of resin.
SORTING AND BUNDLING: Bundling is very important in order to keep shading
and sizing problems of the cut panels to a minimum. The cut panels are bundled
and then sent to the sewing floor as and when required. In Sorting and Bundling,
all the cut panels are divided and sorted size wise and style wise. Sorting is also
done shade wise and shrinkage wise.
During bundling, panels are sorted and made into bundles of 25 - 30.Bundle tickets
are attached to every bundle.
A bundle ticket contains details about:

Style number
Lay number
Cut number
Size of the garment (cut panel)
Name of the cut panel
Bundle number
Quantity of the bundle
Serial no. of the cut parts

Spreading & Cutting Department

No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

84

Area Covered

288 x 162=46656 sqft

MIS

Manual, Excel Sheet

Machinery

35 | P a g e

1.)
2.)
3.)
4.)

Straight Knife- 12
Band Knife-2
End Cutter-5
Straight Linear Fusing Press- 4

Storage
Tables
Tube light
Fans

5.) Ticketing M/c- 16

6.) Spreading M/c-4
7.) Cutting
Racks- 24
Temp. storage Tables- 48
Spreading Tables- 12 (21mtr x 2 mtr)
Ticketing & Bundling Tables- 4 (18 mtr x 2.4 mtr)
264
31

Block cutting
Stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to
requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like Stripes
and checks are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread
one at a time, matching the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are
cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the block is
dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the
blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut
blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the hard paper
patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough
cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are
again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting
occurs to finish the patterns.
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage
involved is also more due to cutting in two stages.
Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of
one garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut
from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a
lot there are bolt-to-bolt variations in the colour shade. The sorted pieces are now
ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching
precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and
puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains
the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track
the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.
Bundling
36 | P a g e

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled
using ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant.
Each bundle will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting
department issues the amount required by the production department when asked
for.

Problems observed
Missing out on some layers sticking together while stickering in a particular
high pace of working or sometimes the sticker itself tends to stick off the fabric
surface due to some fabric quality such as chiffon, georgette, polyester etc.
Not using 5S up to the mark had resulted in unmanaged shelves of stickered
and unstickered bundles of same coloured fabric pieces.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Sampling department is the most important department of the organization. It is the
department that develops the samples thus enabling the Product Development.
Sampling is the best way to place an order. Though it is a difficult and time ending
process but it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. The samples
decide the ability of an exporter. The buyers will assess the exporter and his
organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with
reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order, so it is
essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. In Pearl
global, Sampling was self-sufficient as it has its own stitching, washing, trimming,
spotting, ironing and checking or inspection etc. dedicated for the construction of
samples only.
REQUIREMENT OF SAMPLING: The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk
order but also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling
37 | P a g e

the exporter can estimate he yarn consumption for developing the fabric clear idea
on costing difficulties avoid all kinds of bottle necks.

TYPES OF SAMPLE
Development sample- Based on tech pack submitted by buyer or on the
design developed in-house.
Proto sample - Similar to development sample. It is the reflection of the first
techpack received from the buyer. The sample is sent to the buyer for the
design approval. Proto can be made with different fabric but quality of fabric
should be same as per buyer instruction. Proto sample is made in the base
size. Styling is important. The comments and second tech pack is sent back
referring changes in the sample.
Line Adoption (LA): After sending proto, if buyer approves, LA sample is
sent to buyer. It should be the actual fabric, trims and measurements. Three
samples are sent to buyer.
LA Design: This sample refers to the total design of the garment or over
look of the garment.
LA Fit: It includes the fitting if the garment, Buyer observes the fit of
garment on bodice or model.
Detail Sample: It should be in actual fabric & trims.
These are the three samples which need to be sent to buyer for approval if buying
house there, same samples are sent to there also.

Fit sample -Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are
requested in each fit.
Second Fit Sample : It is similar to the first fit sample made with a few
changes according to comments received from the buyer. Again a third or
fourth fit sample may be required to be made. After approval of fit sample,
order is confirmed along with all the specifications.

38 | P a g e

 Sealer Sample- Sealer samples when approved, production can begin and no
further changes to the tech pack can be made.
Wash Sample - Sample made to test the effects of washes on the garment.
Enables to evaluate after wash appearance, shrinkage and shading problem.
It is totally depends upon buyer requirement. Sometimes mock sample is to be
made.
Salesman Samples - Samples which are sent to retail outlets by buyers to
collect feedback from customers regarding a particular design for the next
season. It helps to evaluate customer likings and reactions.
Size Set Sample -It is absolutely depends on buyer. It includes samples in all
sizes as that are going to be mass produced between 1 to 3 pieces per size
as per buyer requirements.
GPT Sample: These samples are made for garment testing for seamslippage,
tearing strength; button pulling etc. it is the garment pack sample.
Photo Shoots Samples - Samples used for advertising and live model
display purposes.
Preproduction Sample - Replication of the original garment with actual
fabrics, trims, fitting and production methods. If buyer approves the PP, he
sends the sample with green tag.
Reference Sample: After approving PP, if buyer change slight change in
product or style like stitch per inch, stitch type, in that case vendor sends
revised sample as per buyer reference,-is called reference sample.
TOP Sample : The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes from the
first bulk production. It is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to
all sizes and all colors.

THE DETAILS ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT SAMPLE

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following
details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both,
what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if
applicable).
39 | P a g e

Ref no
Colour
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no
Size

40 | P a g e

Tech pack received from merchant

Develop patterns

Costing CAD marker

Develop sample

Develop fit/proto sample

If any comments

If no comments

PP sample

Revise Fit/Proto sample

If any comments
Revise PP sample

If no comments

Size set sample

If no comments
If any comments

Incorporate buyer comments

Sealer sample

If any comments

If no comments

IncorporateBulk
buyer
comments
production
(shrinkage to be added if its a w

41 | P a g e

Sampling Department
No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

38

Area Covered

(125 X 38)=4750 sqft

MIS

Excel Sheet

Machinery

Storage

42 | P a g e

1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)

Flat Lock-12
Over Lock-7
Feed of Arm-5
SNLS-23
Riveting M/c-2
Round Knife0-2
Iron Table-3
Button Hole-1
Buttoning M/c-1
4 racks

Tables

4 Tables

Tube light

76

Fans

18

Compliance

Metal Free Zone

Average
Process
1) Fit Sample-2 to 4 days
2) Revised Sampling-1 to 3 days
Lead TIme
3) PP sample-3 to 5 Days
4) Size Set Sample- 10 to 12 Days

CAD DEPARMTENT
GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are
made with help of Optitex software package.
Functions of cad room:
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
Determining cutting average for costing
Making the most efficient cutting marker
Development and alteration of patterns
Development of size set pattern by grading

PROCESS FLOW
Receive patterns from
Pattern correction
Pattern grading
43 | P a g e

Cut ratio
Marker planning
according to the cut

Output
marker to
plotter

WORK FLOW
IN CAD
DEPARTMENT

Send to cutting
room for cutting

Output to
Graphtec
plotter
Pattern sent to
merchandiser for sampling

Output mini
marker to
printer
Send to
merchandiser for
costing

The method is normally part of an integrated system which includes digitizing or scanning of
full-size patterns in to the computers, facilities for pattern adaptation, and by inputting
appropriate grade rules, the means to generate all the sizes required.

CAD Deparment
The company is having lectra cad system and the software they use is optitex. Its main
components are:
pattern planner (optitex)
digitizer
44 | P a g e

 plotter

Pattern planner:
The planner specifies the exact make-up of the marker planner: the width of the fabric, the
pattern pieces to be used, the sizes to be included and all the constraints to be applied
including the matching of checks. The system produces a marker plan automatically or
interactively. Automatic marker planning involves calling up data defining the placement of
pieces in markers previously planned, and selecting, from a series, that marker conformation
which gives the highest marker efficiency. Interactive marker planning is more common in
pearl global and its the process by which the operator markers by interacting directly with
the system through gerber. All the pieces are displayed in miniature at the top of the screen. In
the middle of the screen two horizontal lines defining the marker width and a vertical line at
the left representing the beginning of the marker. The right end is for moment open.

Optitex

Digitizer:It's a kind of white digitized board which reads the signals. It is draft the patterns
send by the buyers and accordingly we can grade on the gerber. It is used to draft the pattern,
notches, darts etc.

45 | P a g e

Digitizer
Plotter:
After planning the marker on the computer, the marker planner instructs the computer to plot
the marker automatically onto paper.
For knits department the cad department just plans the marker and sends the required
efficiency to the cutting department. The pattern master first make the rough marker for
finding out the average ply length, then after spreading all layers he draft the original marker.
The marker mode is online. All the patterns are kept in one direction only keeping the grain
line constant.

Plotters
Working Procedure:
46 | P a g e

 After getting approval from Pattern master, Pattern is plotted with plotter from
CAD dept.
Pattern is cut from the marking paper and attach to hard brown paper, then
final pattern is cut.
After Patterns are kept into envelop and submitted to cutting master.
[On the envelop the following information should be there: Style no., date,
Parts no., Created by, Merchant Name]
After grading is done, the graded marker is sent to buyer for verification
from buyers end which is called Nested Print.
After marker planning the nested copy which consists of every sizes is
submitted to pattern master, after approving from master, fabric consumption
is given to merchant.
In CAD dept. the most challenging work is marker placement.With the help of
Optitex marker placing is very easier.
Technique of Marker Placement:
Checks
Fabric
All panel of
garment
should place in
one direction;
other sizes
may be put on
other way but
the direction
should be
same for all
parts

Stripe fabric

solid fabric

dyed fabric

printed fabric

All parts
should be
placed on the
plane of stripe;
Both sleeve
parts should
be placed on
the same
stripe line.

All parts can

be placed by
any direction;
As per grain
line.

All parts of a
particular
garment
should be
placed along
center
selvedge, to
avoid color
variation.

All panel of
garment
should place in
one direction.

Fabric Consumption Required:

For calculating fabric consumption, CAD operator should know the fabric type,
quantity, cutting table length. He should develop the marker such as that fabric
consumption should be as less as possible.
Fabric consumption is taken as average basis.
[For e.g. if the order quantity is 1000 pieces and the sizes ratio is XS: S: M: L:
XL=1:2:2:1:1; CAD operator takes XS+L+XL=3 or S+M=4 and calculate the
average fabric quantity and divide by the total quantity, Thus Average
consumption per garment is calculated.]

47 | P a g e

R&D DEPARTMENT
File comes from Sampling Department to CAD Department; They will make
Pattern for R&D Department and send to it which they make their own
same sample and check if the Pattern require any correction like garment
shrink 1 inch; in this case, CAD room will change the Production Pattern on
recommendation of R&D Department.

receives file from merchandiser

with tech pack, CAD copy,
P.O.s , Fabric Reports,
P.P.Sample, Approved trims,
base pattern, approved
Embroidery head

Pilot Run / size

set

FAIL

PASS

Pilot run
selected

Re- pilot with pattern

amendment

48 | P a g e

Bulk

Pre
Production
Meeting

In R & D department analysis of new design sample is done to make the operations easy for
bulk production. Minor changes can be done in pattern.
Types of sample prepared in R & D department:

Pilot run sample

Size set

T.O.P. sample

Order processing procedure

Step 1
R & D department receives the file by merchandiser after sample approval. This file contains
the tech pack, white seal fit report (dummy fit), trims report, patterns and technological
comments i.e. Buying House comments and Buyers comments.
Step 2
Buying house confirms the pattern for grading with buyer. Buyer approves the graded
patterns and also comments on the pattern if any alteration needs to be done.
Step 3
Size set is made in the jumping size and sent for approval. Buyer may ask for resubmission of
the size set and can also comment on grading measurement.
Step 4
Pilot run is done in every size. Factory Quality assurance check and inspect the pilot sample.
If acceptable it will be sent to buyer else go for re-pilot and pattern amendment.

Types of files maintained in R & D department

Internal shrinkage file

49 | P a g e

Quality report file

Pre production specification

Sample evaluation sheet

Size specification- approved

Production specification

Size chart

Measurement check sheet

Inspection report

Buyers files

Tech pack

CAD

P.O.s

Trims

Fabric reports

Sampling

P.P. Meeting comment

Order summary sheet

Approved Embroidery header

Only after the approval by R&D Department after finalizing the pattern
through analysing various factors like shrinkage, measurements, etc., the
production is proceed to cutting.

CAD Department
No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

3(Pattern Master) & 4 (Asst.)

50 | P a g e

Area Covered

28 x 16=448 sqft

MIS

Manually on register

Machinery

1.) Lectra Plotter-2

2.) Lectra Digitizer -1
3.) Computer System-4

CAD Software
Tables

2 table

Tube light

18

Fans

FABRIC TESTING DEPARTMENT

Start

Fabric Sourcing

Accessory stores

Test

Test

Merchandising

Carry on test on fabric and garment as per buyer requirement

Count

Buttons

Construction

Colour fastness to washing

Colour laces and twill tapes

On meeting buyer requirement, samples to be sent to external lab to get

Colour fastness test and elastic

Colour fastness to crocking

Lining fabrics

Dimensional stability to washing

Dimensional Stability

Fabric Strength

Corrugated box

Fabric Weight

51 | P a g e
End

Fabric Testing Department

In house lab receives samples from the suppliers for testing purpose.
Each sample is given a lab number before testing is carried out.
The tests carried out are meant for internal verification only and not for getting

precise test results.

The test methods are as per in-house procedures to enable the company to
monitor the quality of the fabrics before they are sent to approve laboratories

for final quality evaluation.

Testing in the lab is carried out only for fabrics and not for trims and
accessories.

TESTS CARRIED OUT IN THE LAB:

Count
Construction
GSM
Shrinkage- (Dimensional Stability)
Colour Fastness
-To washing
-To crocking (wet and dry)
Test standards followed for
-American buyers AATCC
-Other countries ISO

52 | P a g e

Fabric Testing Department

No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

Area Covered

37 x 19=703 sqft

MIS

Manually on register

Machinery

1.)
2.)
3.)
4.)
5.)
6.)
7.)
8.)

Storage

GSM Cutter-2
Tensile Strength tester-2
Pilling Tester-1
Tearing Strength tester-1
Crock-o-meter-1
Washing Machine-1
Beasleys Balance-1
Colour Match Cabinet-1
1 cub-board

Tables

1 table

Tube light

Fans

ACCESSORY STORE DEPARTMENT

The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of
documents i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they
are done they are done according to the documents that have been received from
the merchants and also the department also makes the document for anything they
carry out within their roof.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants
would have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As
53 | P a g e

soon as the accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will
receive that particular material they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be
receiving that material and this is termed as PRE GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores
on the prescribed day and date the
concerned
person
verifies
the
materials against invoice/ Delivery
Challan and packing list which they
would have received from the
merchant as already stated.
After it is confirmed that the received
materials
is
according
to
the
documents then they carry out a
quality inspection and this inspection is
carried out irrespective to the type of
Accessories store
the buyer. The company carries this
inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods received.

SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing department is the most crucial department of any apparel industry. This is the
place where the cut components of a garment, are shaped and styled into a new
form with proper seams and stitches as required.
Sewing section in the unit consists of four floors which accommodate about 1500
machines and distributed into 60 lines. Each line has a supervisor monitoring the
production and trying to balance the line himself.
54 | P a g e

The IE department does the time study to take out the SAM of each machine and
manual operation. This is done in order to take out the standard allowed minutes
needed to carry out each operation and hence the whole operation to make the
garment.
Hence they prepare an estimated Operation Bulletin with the operation and its SAM
value. This operation bulletin is issued to the sewing section.
SIZE SET: Size set samples are samples of garment prepared for each size as
specified the buyer. These are then sent to the buyer and any comments from the
buyer are further incorporated till it is finalized by the buyer.
PP MEETING: PP meeting is held and the approved sample from the buyer is
displayed with measurements and pattern details. It also contains the comments
from the buyer, points to avoid while stitching to achieve the correct specification.
MOCK SPECIFICATION CHART: Mock specification chart is displaying the critical
sewing operations on components of the garment, with actual fabric and hanging it in
the line for the ease of the operator. In case of any doubt, he can refer to that sample
to see the seam type, sleeve joining (e.g.: if the sleeve crown has ruffles in the
middle), lace attachments and any other critical style in the garment. It is hung by the
means of a hanger.
IN LINE CHECKING: In line checking is done on critical areas. All the stitches,
seams are checked. Front and back are bundled according to their component no.
and sent to the respective operators.
In case of any defects, a sticker with red arrow is stuck to indicate the defect.
END LINE CHECKING: End line checking is done at the end of the line when the
complete garment has been stitched. Each garment is checked for its
measurements, stitch, and style and in case any defect is found, it is marked with a
red arrow sticker and hung separately.
QUALITY REPORTS TO BE MAINTAINED:
Quality & correction & preventive action
End line report
Inline report
QC Red Flag Report
QC Specification Audit Report
QC Comments Report
55 | P a g e

SPI Report & Stitch Mock

SALARY AND INCENTIVES:

The operators get a fixed salary on the 7 th of every month, on the basis of their skill
grade- A+, A, B, C. Incentives they get every day on the basis of their extra
production and good performance.

Sewing/production department
No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

924

No. of Q.C.

31

Area Covered

206 x 158=32548 sqft

MIS

Excel Sheet

Machinery

Refer Annexure No.

Storage
Tables

Racks- 24
Temp. storage Tables- 48
(6 x 9)=54 and 12

Tube light

(88 x 2)x9=1584

56 | P a g e

Flow Process
Cutting
Bundles from
Cutting

Trims And Labels

From Store

Operation Bulletin
from IE Dept

57 | P a g e
Sewing Preparatory
Half Stitch*

Required
Machines And
Attachments

Rework
Midline Checking* of Critical Operation
100%

Pass
Assembling Final
Stitch

Rework

End of Line Checking 100%

Pass

Batch Audit

Finishing
Department

Embellishment
*

WORKING OF A SEWING ROOM

Size Wise / Colour Wise Detail
Receiving

ISSUE OF THE CUT PARTS

The cut parts are dispatched to the sewing section and stored in the warehouse.
Then it is bundled and fed into the sewing line. Every bundle of cut parts is
accompanied with a job card.
FEEDING TO THE LINE
The bundles are fed into the lines .Each bundle during our studies carried 20 pieces.
INLINE INSPECTION
After every critical operation an inline inspection personal is placed to keep a track of
quality of the pieces manufactured. This checking is placed before the final
assembling of the garment because alterations are difficult and sometimes even
impossible after the completion of the garment. The checking is done for stitching
quality, seams, fabric, shades etc.

58 | P a g e

Pieces not up to the mark are sending for rework/alteration, the rate being 10-12%.
The same operator has to mend the fault in manufacturing, and is supposed to
complete all the alterations before ending is/her shift for the day.
FINAL INSPECTION
Final inspection consists of thread cutting, shade variation checks, check for faults in
manufacturing fabric faults etc. The rejected parts are considered as seconds and
were, quite obviously not added to the shipment lot. The rate of rejection was 1-2%.
SUPERVISORS
Line supervisors or in-charge has a critical role in function of his line. They
continuously monitor the operators.

Progressive Bundle System

At Pearl Global, progressive bundle system (PBS) is used for manufacturing.

This system is exactly what its name implies, a system whereby the garments are gradually
assembled as they move through successive sub-assembly and main assembly operations in
bundle form. The principles of this system are:
The various sections are positioned according to main operation sequence, with each
section having a layout according to the sequence of operations required to produce a
particular component. For example, the sleeve section could contain the following sequence
of operations:
1. Run stitch collar
2. Collar turn/iron
3. Collar top stitch, etc
The amount of machinery for each operation would be determined by the output required.
A work store is positioned at the start and end of every section of these buffers is used to
store work received from a preceding operation, and to hold work completed by that
section.
Due to these work stores or buffers, each section is not directly dependent on the
preceding section, but can absorb slight variations in output via the stocks held within the
section.
The progressive bundle system, while being somewhat cumbersome in operation and
requiring large quantities of work in progress, is probably one of the most stable systems as
59 | P a g e

regards output. Unless there is serious absenteeism or prolonged special machine

breakdowns, most of the usual hold-ups can be absorbed because of the amounts of work in
progress.
Balancing and the changeover to new styles are also somewhat simplified, due to the
amount of work held in reverse. When properly managed, the progressive bundle system is
versatile and efficient.

PRODUCTION PLANNING
As soon as the new styles comes to the floor. The production manager assigns a
particular line for the production. Its the duty of manager to see through which system if
suitable for which style. After assigning the line, the concerned production executives takes
care of the line balancing, operators , machines and other problems relating to it. The
supervisors dictate the style and the working methodology to the operators and assign the
operations to them.

60 | P a g e

The production departments have daily production meeting in the morning which is headed
my General Manager; production department. In the meeting they discuss the following:

Daily production report

Production problems

Quality

Styles about to come in

Shipments

Planning of the day

Reports and documents:

Attendance record

Cutting receipt note

Layout

Material requisite form

Daily production report

Daily cost sheet

Hourly production report

Line efficiency report

Manpower requirement

Daily cumulative production report

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
Industrial engineering department works in close co ordination with the Cutting, Stitching,
Finishing, Embroidery and the Sourcing Department. It is their duty to calculate the present
state of the production scenario and then devise methods to increase its efficiency.
The IE Department works on the principle of increasing the productivity through looking at
things, then seeing them, observing them, thinking about them, deciding about them and then
finally acting on them.
61 | P a g e

There are many tasks performed by the Industrial Engineering Department. These tasks are
divided on the basis of daily, weekly and monthly basis. Apart from their routine work they
also devise new and improved methods for increasing the productivity as well as the
efficiency of other departments.
When a new style comes, it is the responsibility of the IE department to make an operation
bulletin. The main aim of this operation bulletin would be to reduce the work content in the
overall garment as well as to reduce the SAM contained in the garment. The layout for the
new style is also made with as much accuracy as possible and is well balanced. The optimum
method of construction to achieve the required finished product efficiently is also determined
and accordingly the operation sequence is determined. The equipments type and the work aids
to be used are also specified.

After the style has been put up on the production floor the daily checking of the operators
performance is done. If the operator is working below the expectations then the reasons for
the same are determined and hence corrective measures are taken. If the operator is working
at the desired level of efficiency or even more than that, then he is motivated to increase his
output. The performance over the whole week is also calculated and if any deviation is seen
from the planning point of view, the causes are determined and action is taken against it. The
Industrial Engineering techniques are also applied to develop performance of teams and
individuals by motivation. This goal is achieved by working together with production to build
production capability.
The major focus of the Industrial Engineering Department is in getting the facts. The various
techniques in getting the facts are through daily production reports, through time study of a
particular style or line, through carefully observing the particular operation, determining the
causes etc. The whole study to be conducted by the department is focused on facts. If there is
any erroneous data then the whole conclusion of their study would be a total waste. Thus the
methods of collecting and analyzing the facts should be accurate.
The department focuses on the standardization of the procedures of performing any task,
scheduling the production so that the target which is set by the PPC department is met and
Training the operators overall so that their main aim becomes the overall development of the

62 | P a g e

company by increasing the production as well as being self motivated towards the attainment
of their goals.
Reports formed by the I.E. Department
Efficiency report
Line efficiency: This report compares the individual line production with the set
target. This report also compares the efficiency between different lines, floors etc. This
report also helps in analyzing total SAM produced, over time hour, no of operators,
total production and global efficiency. This report is made as per following: floor wise
efficiency daily weekly monthly
Attendance report: This report tells us the number of operators corning in from the start of
the month to the end of month to take out the absenteeism percentage. It also includes the
new addition and the people who have left. It also shows the man days worked.
Order completion report: This is made for fabric, cutting and stitching.
Fabric completion report: The fabric utilization for orders to be shipped is calculated by
using the order quantity, the cut quantity and shipped quantity. After that fabric leftover is
also calculated by determining the goods which are not usable and the rejected lot and taking
out the left over percentage.
Cutting completion report: The OCR comprises of the style number, the order quantity
and the quantity to be cut, it is also seen how much fabric is to be required and how much
fabric is recorded be it extra or short, the cad average is provided and the cutting average is
also calculated.
Production completion report: The OCR format for production shows the number of
pieces forwarded from 1 department to another and the status of the rejected and other
leftover pieces.
Fabric consumption: This report is derived from the fabric OCR
Leftover percentage: This report is derived from the fabric OCR
Training operators report: This report keeps track of all operator trainees and their
performance.
Daily production report: This report shows the daily production for all the lines on the
floor. This report includes the input, cumulative input, the output and the cumulative output of
each line. This also includes the WIP, the number of operators, total overtime hours, the
helpers, total sam produced, efficiency with and without overtime hours, DHU etc.
Their are two types of daily production report
1) stitching
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2) finishing
Costing report: IE makes this report for accounts department that contains the direct cost
involved with the production.
Machine utilization: This report is made for each floor of the plant. This report tells the no
of machines, machine utilization (%) of each line on the floor. This report also tells us total
machine utilization on floor.
Layout: The IE also takes care of the plant layout and floor layout. They arrange the desired
machinery and equipment of a plant, established or contemplated, in the way which will
permit the easiest flow of materials, at the lowest cost and with the minimum of handling.
Thread consumption: This report shows the amount of thread consumed in fabric to
determine the wastage and utilization.

THREAD USAGE RATE

M/C

Rate

SNLS

2.60

DNLS

5.50

FLAT LOCK (D/N)

19.20

O/L 3T

17.00

O/L 4T

21.00

O/L 5T

24.50

COVER STITCH 3T

19.20

COVER STITCH 4T

25.30

COVER STITCH 5T

32.00

ZIG ZAG

5.10

BARTACK

28.00

BUTTON SEW

19.50

BUTTON HOLE

85.00

D/N CHAIN STITCH

11.20

BLIND STITCH

15.40

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KANSAI

15.00

FOA

11.00

Operation bulletin: This report is made for all the styles which run on the production floor.
It gives the target to the line. It also explains the efficiency, no of work places and sewing
machines, the total SAM of the style, the machine SAM, the manual SAM, piece per
machine. It also includes the operations and machine required. The industrial engineering
department keeps all the departments updated about their plans to raid the manufacture of
goods either to incorrect specifications or by an improper method.

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

The Production Planning and Control Department is a very important department in this
industry. The ultimate objective of the PPC department is to contribute to the profits of the
enterprise. Specific objectives of PPC are to establish routes and schedules for work that will
ensure the optimum utilization of materials, workers, and machines and to provide the means
for ensuring the operation of the plant in accordance with these plants.
PPC is the managerial function which plans, directs and controls the material flow system in
the plant to achieve the targets set by marketing with utmost economy and efficiency.
Planning is an important function. It decides what is to be done in the future. The planning
function means to think, set goals, organize and initiate. This plan is the source of action for
achieving the desired goal. This plan is followed by an important function of action. Thus the
action is called the planned action.
Planning and Control are closely interrelated. They both feed upon each other. Operation is
based on the objective set by planning and planning further re plans action based upon
feedback information from operation. Basically the production control function involves the
coordination and integration of the factors of production or production facilities to produce a
product at an optimum efficiency.

The objectives of PPC

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It prescribes desirable level of stocks of raw materials as well as stocks of finished

goods so that the company can meet in time requirements of the market.

It aims to ensure steady flow of production activities

It tries to secure balance of all activities through proper co ordination of different

departments.

It wants effective utilization of production facilities so that delivery dates can be

honoured as well as operating costs can be reduced to a minimal. Fuller use of the
plant is desirable continuously.

Alternative plans are always kept ready to meet any contingency or emergency. This
will prevent any crisis in the production cycle.

Effective planning for production will assure achievement of targets in sales and
profits

The company can operate at the planned level of efficiency

The PPC head has daily meeting with the Production heads, the Embroidery head, the Fabric
Stores and the Cutting Department. The merchandiser inform him via e-mails or personally to
tell him about the upcoming styles and their respective shipment dates. Accordingly he does
the planning for the particular style.
In the daily meetings the following issues are discussed:
Whether the input is received by the respective departments on the date planned.
Whether the quality of the input as well as the output is up to the required standard
Whether the shipments will be met. To determine the various causes for delay and
decide upon the action to be taken in case of such mishaps.
Whether the departments are working at the desired level of efficiency. If they are not
then determine the causes for the inefficiency.
Whether the required standards of output are met or not.
In case of the cutting department it is also seen if there is any pending fabric left for the
delivery or any extra amount is left. Usually the amount to be ordered is added with another
10%-5% for cutting loss and 5% on process loss. + 5% shipment is usually allowed in most of
the cases.
The PCD is formed for the particular style. PCD is the Planned Cut Date. This tells the
Planned Date for cutting the required style and at the same time seeing to it that the trims are
also in the company. It contains the PO #, Buyer, Style #, color, Quantity of pieces to be cut,
66 | P a g e

delivery date, destination, PCD, the date for the file and inline fabric/trims date and in the end
the bulk fabric/Trims date. First the file has to be received by the cutting department by the
merchandiser along with the patterns to be cut. Then some quantity of the bulk fabric has to
be in the company on the file handover date. Accordingly the PCD is made and the dates
assigned for the cutting for the style is given. The 3 main criteria for PCD to be met are:
1

File should be handed before/on the date

The bulk fabric to be cut should be available in the company

The trims should also be available in the company

A line plan is also made. The capacity for each line is determined according to the SAM. This
helps in putting the target for the particular line so as to meet the shipment date. While setting
the line plan the efficiency of each line is taken around 50%. This is because of normal and
abnormal absenteeism as well as the current efficiency of normal working of the operators.
This line plan is made for each floor separately as well as for each line. It consists of the line
number, date, the target to be set, the style number, the output to be delivered as well as the
target output of the whole day for the entire floor.
The line to be selected for the particular style is decided on various issues. These are:
1

If it is repeat order for the line

Particular buying house wants that particular line to make their product

Particular buying house wants that particular floor to make their product

This line plan is reviewed every day and the changes are incorporated every week. These
changes may be because of inefficiency of the line, style gets delayed due to various reasons
such as the fabrics and trims were not available on time etc. Whereas in the case of PCD no
changes are made and the style has to be cut on that desired date.
Good relationships with all the other functions in the company are essential to effective
planning and control. Full co operation with the merchandising department is necessary,
particularly in view of the importance of the particular buyers they are dealing to, specially
the old buyers who have played a major role in the development of the company. Industrial
engineering department must keep production planning and control informed as to their plans
to avoid the manufacture of goods either to incorrect specifications or by an improper
method. Cost control depends upon production control for essential cost information: the
actual time that was required to process the material.
67 | P a g e

The key criteria in determining the effectiveness of a PPC department would be whether the
shipping promises are being kept-the percentage of the orders shipped on time. This will only
be applicable if the cost involved is low. The PPC plans the route of work through the plant,
determines the amount of productive capacity required to do the work, and based upon the
availability of this capacity schedules all phases of the work so that the plant will be
effectively utilized. Once these plans are established production control provides the means to
keep track of manufacturing activity and when necessary take corrective action or re plan.
Make your plan and then rework your plan.

WASHING DEPARTMENT
Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the
washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that
particular style according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in
the final feel and the texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of
the buyer 100%.

68 | P a g e

Washing department

At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise,
suppose the garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the
similar manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to
the washing process. There are different types of washing procedures.
After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in
which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine
depending on the tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had
accumulated in the previous stages will be extracted by compressing the garment
with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not
involve any organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and
inspected according to the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser

69 | P a g e

Start
Receipt of goods from different units

Segregation (JO wise, unit wise, shade wise)

Washing
As per buyer spec

Wet Processing
Dry process: grinding/ripping/blowout/sand blasting/crinkling

hing: softener/acid/desize/enzyme/stone/rubber
Dyeing
ball/stone enzyme/tinting/normal water wash/ dip n

Reactivee

Pigment

Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
Accounting & dispatch to different units

End

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Washing Department
No. Of Shifts
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1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

172

Area Covered

165 x 115=18975 sqft

MIS

Excel Sheet

Machinery

Storage

Dry Cleaning M/c (Renzacci)-2

Tumbler (Fabcare)-2 (100 kg-2; 50 kg-2)
Dying M/c-3 (35 kg-1; 200kg-2)
Hydro Extracter-2
Boxes- 45

Tables

Compliance

Metal Free Zone

QUALITY DEPARTMENT

72 | P a g e

This department is responsible for the quality assurance at each stage of the
product. The stages are that of raw material, Work In Progress and the Finished
Materials. The following are the various areas where the TQA department functions:
FABRIC INSPECTION:
The incoming fabrics are tested on the 4 point system. 10% of the fabric quantity is
sent for inspection. The format used for maintaining inspection records is mentioned
in the later.

Preparation of shade card

Centre to selvedge report
Shrinkage report
Width checking report
Fusing shrinkage report

CUTTING INSPECTION:
The cutting Inspection is done according to the Tech Pack, Approvals, AQL level
defect standards and style technical specification.
For uncut parts inspection:

Verify spec vs. patterns

Cross check fabric reports and approvals
Verify lay height and lay parameters
Verify number of parts placed as per mini marker
Inspect numbering
Ensure fusing performance
Verify various reports
Checking for more shrunk layers in the lay.

For cut parts inspection:

Verify all size patterns against the spec.
Verify shrinkages have been added into the patterns.
Cross verify pattern released are for all colours or there are colour wise

patterns.
Make sure patterns are as per the matching/stripe placement requirement

esp. In case of y/dyed

Placement of notches is as per the requirement of the style.

FUSING PROCESS:
For the fusing process, the following parameters are checked.
Air pressure adjusted according to the fusing requirements.
73 | P a g e

Temperature maintained and measured by the thermo strip regularly.

Quality of fusing material like bubbling area, colour change, fabric staining,
fused area bond strength, after washing of fused quality and checking the
weight performance.

BATCH INSPECTION:
Check the garments at the INLINE and END LINE Inspection points.
Verify In line and End line inspection reports.
Verify and instruct the in line and end line measurement report.
Arrange passed pieces for batch audit.
Compare tech pack with sample received and highlight discrepancy between

tech pack and sample.

Constructional details.
Colour wise trims and their placement.
Spec sheet against pattern, sample
Art work approvals, placements, grading.
PP/Sealer/Size set/Pilot comments for the style or any comments by buyer.
Constructional specification of the particular operation being done before the

in line inspection.
SPI, stretch ability of particular operation, needle damages.
Material swatch/trim swatch/ colour wise main label, wash care label swatches

and placement in garment.

Diagrammatic representation of critical parts like placket /pockets with
measurements.

FINAL AUDIT - Final Audit is done internally (by quality auditor) as well as externally
(by buyer's QC). They use statistical Quality Control as their tool as check few pieces
so as to get the idea of the lot.
AQL
Generally the AQL followed in the finishing department is 2.5. This may vary from
buyer to buyer.
There is a separate inspection room in the finishing department. This is maintained
for the QA of the buyers who come randomly to check the quality of the garments of
their respective buyers .When the buyer comes, he randomly selects cartons
(depending upon the AQL). From the cartons he selects pieces. He checks the
garment according to the specifications. He may pass the lot or find some defects. If
the garments are below standard, he may reject the lot.
GENERALISED AQL SHEET

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Shipped Qty
1-15
16-25
26-50
51-90
91-150
151-280
281-500
501-1200
1201-3200
3201-10000
10001-35000
35001150000

Audit Qty
3
5
8
13
20
32
50
80
125
200
315

AQL 1
0
0
0
0
0
1
1
2
3
5
7

AQL 2.5
0
0
0
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
14

AQL 4
0
0
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21

AQL 6.5
0
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21
21

AQL 10
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21
21
21

500

10

21

21

21

21

Any measurement is found out of tolerance and falls into Critical Defect column, that
garment falls and will be accounted for a defective in the manufacturing and finished
appearance audit plan.

FINISHING & PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

PROCESS FLOW

Garments received from

Kaj Botton if required

75 | P a g e

Washing

Thread Cutting

Initial Checking 100%

Pressing

Final Checking 100%

SPOTTI
NG

SEWING
ALTER
REWORK

Packing Received / Colour Wise

Repressing

Measurement Checking

Needle

EMBELLISHME
NT REWORK

PASS
Re-Final Checking 100%

Quality Batch Audit

AQL

Tagging and Folding

FAIL

Finishing Section is the last and an important department since it is here that the
garments gets its real beauty. This is the last check done on the garment to ensure
that the garments meet all the quality standards specified by the buyer.
If the garment is washable then the first process is loading the garments coming from
washing section. Here the garments requiring buttons are marked for the same. The
workers are provided with a graded scale to mark the button at the correct place and
distance for all the sizes. The garment is then sent to the Kaj Button Department.

76 | P a g e

KAJ BUTTON DEPARTMENT

This department is responsible for sewing of buttons into the garments. This department also
checks for the required button pressure desired by the buyer; which is most of time is
8 kg. First the button strength is checked and only if it is passed through the test, that
button is attached to the garment

Process
Piece come from
Production

Pieces are count in

Marking on

Kaj Process

Button

Button Fixed

Trims and cutting

Washing

Checking

KAJ MARKING AREA Here the marking for button stitches is done. Here also
the workers are provided with proper graded scale with distances marked at
which they should mark for buttonhole. The garment is then sent to the KB
Section.

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KB SECTION KB Section (Kaja- Button Section) is involved in button stitching

and button hole making in the garment. The finishing section of TS-IV had two
lines each having seven machines. One extra button was also stitched on the
side label.
After button and kaja marking, the garments are loaded into the button holing section
and the approved sample is checked for the following:

Button hole, button placement, eyelet placement etc.

Thread runs
No of buttons
Two / Four hole buttons
Line of the button
Production targets are given to individual operators and pieces are checked
randomly every hour. In case of defective pieces, they are returned to the batch for
alteration and are kept a track of.
After button hole and button attach, the feeding helper loads the pieces into the
trimming section. The no. of pieces loaded is entered into the loading register.
Each person at the KB-Section is provided with a quality specification chart which
contains all the details about the buyer, style, operation, type of thread and needle to
be used and a mock sample is also pasted on it.
TRIMMING SECTION: Here the workers are involved in trimming the unwanted
threads left out after sewing of the garment or otherwise; both from right side and
wrong side of the garment. Then the garment is passed to the next sectionMiddle Checking.

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MIDDLE CHECKING Middle checking is the next process after trimming. This
section is there to see if there are any left out untrimmed threads, any spot on the
fabric, any defect on the fabric and report accordingly to the quality in-charge.
THREAD SUCKING MACHINE As the name suggests, this machine is used to suck
the extra loose threads stuck to the garments. The garments after passing through
this machine are sent to the ironing section.
ALTERATION AREA: There were four SNLS machines and one overlock
machine. If there are few defected samples (15-20 pcs), that can be rectified
here. If they are more in number (100 or so), then they are sent back to the
sewing line for rectification.
Problems Observed:

All kinds of stitching problems, shrinking after washing, difference in

measurements out of tolerance limits, mismatch components attached
together, missing trims, defects in the fabric, wrong neck shaping, Sleeve
shaping, arm-hole mismatch, skewing, bowing, bubbling etc.

79 | P a g e

Finishing section

1.

SPOTTING
SECTION:
This

is

the

section,

meant

for

soil

and

stain

removal from

the

garment.
Depending

upon

the

stain,

there

type

of

were

different stain removal products. The stain removal product was generally applied
by a tooth brush as seen in the figure and then a spot air gun was used to dry the
area. There was also a steam gun to remove any sticker mark.
SPOT REMOVAL PRODUCTS USED
Acetone
Soap oil
Johnson baby soap
Water
Steam gun

Pen mark
Mud wash
1st steam is applied, then the stain
treated with the soap
Sticker removal
For cleaning the treated area.

Spot Removal Products

FINAL CHECKING: Final checking of the garment is done on a random basis.

Garments that require special attention, such as shade variation are all rectified here.
Any spots are shown by a direction sticker and sent for spot wash
IRON SECTION: The garments are given a last touch in the iron section. Here
the required creases are set and unwanted creases are removed. This gives a
finished look to the garment.
The iron used was a steam iron. The iron table was marked with some neck
measurements. The ironer first places the garment on the measurement to see if it is
right. Then he steam irons the garment.

80 | P a g e

The buyer provides a chart for the hanger size to be used for the correct size of the
garment. The ironer then hangs the garment on the proper hanger. This then goes to
the labelling section
MEASUREMENT CHECKING: Measurement checking is done by randomly
selecting, few garments and following the measurement procedure as indicated
by the picture chart that indicates the correct procedure of measuring the major
critical areas of the garment.
TAGGING & SIZE CHECKING AREA: This is the section where, the approved
tags (by the buyer) are attached on each and every garment. If the garment is
hung on the hanger, then each hanger has a size sticker stuck on it.
First the size sticker is stuck on the hanger. Then the required tags are attached
on the garment. Then a checker, checks the size on the side label and the tag
and the hanger. Then the garments are sent to the packaging section.
Packaging Section: After all the above processes are carried out, the pcs are sent
into the Packing Section. The garments need to be properly packed for the purpose
of its shipment to distant places.
Hence each and every garment must be
packed according to the packing standards.
The garments after being labelled are first
folded properly along the crease so that the
garment can be presented in an aesthetic
manner.

Packaging section

The Processes In Detail:

Final Presentation: Here, once again the overall appearance of the garments is
checked. Checked for stains, stitches, damages, ironing and security label.

81 | P a g e

Shade wise Separation: After the final ppt, the pcs arrive for the separation. The
garments are received and separated shade wise.

Price ticket attachment: After the jocker tags have been attached, the garments are
passed to the price ticket attaching area. Here, the price ticket or the price tag is
attached to the pcs with the attaching gun.

The tags are attached size wise. After this an entry is made in a register as to how
many pcs have been attached with the price tickets.

Garment Folding: Then the garment is folded (left over right shorts, pyjamas).
Then the garments is folded or rolled up.

Poly bag packing: The rolled up form of the garment is put into a poly bag. And this
bag is sealed.

Carton Packing: Then the packed garments are put into cartons. They are packed
into the cartons shade wise. Each carton has garments of the same shade.
They are packed into the carton as per the size ratio that is ordered by the buyer.
(According to which the marker had been made).
A quantity of goods is shipped together as a part of the same cargo. Once the
production is done then the garments are packed in accordance to the buyer
specifications. The packed garments are then sent for shipment.
Finishing & Packaging Department
No. Of Shifts

1 (8 Hours)

No. of Workers

172

No. of Q.C.

24

No. of Q.A.

14

Area Covered

165 x 115=18975 sqft

MIS

Excel Sheet

Machinery

Boiler-5
Pressing Vacuum Table-38
Strapping M/c- 23
Folding M/c (Shirt)- 4
Petrol Gun- 36
Spotting Tables-6
Tagging Guns- 13

82 | P a g e

Storage

Tables

Compliance

83 | P a g e

Metal Detector- 2
Trolley- 14
Racks- 17
Hanging Pipes- 64
Boxes- 45
24 (2.5 x 11)
14 (2.5 x 5.5)
Inspection Table-9
Metal Free Zone

PROJECT UNDERTAKEN

To calculate and to
reduce NonProductive Time in
Sewing Line

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INTRODUCTION
Time that is spent by an operator without producing any garment like set up
time, waiting for work, etc. which causes loss in the productive time is called nonproductive time. In garment production Non-productive time is measured to analyse
how much production time is lost due to machine down time. Lost time is recorded to
show management a reason for low production in a particular day or lower line
efficiency. Here are few example of lost time:

Line setting (Setup Time- Machine Setup, Batch Setting Time; Demonstration
Time)
Machine Breakdown
Unavailability of Material
Alteration
Poor Line balancing
Skill Selection
Basic Amenity

OBJECTIVE

To achieve target production

Methodology
Provide a printed format to each line. Make one person responsible to record
lost time in total man minutes in the format. During production hours whenever you
see operators to sit idle, find the reasons of not having work (or not doing the task)
and note down start time and stop time, according due to sample format. In case
multiple operators are sitting idle for the same reason multiply lost time by number of
operators to calculate total man-minutes lost and record on your NPT format. Lost
time recorded under the category need to be approved by supervisor or authorized
person. At the end of the day calculate total lost time in each category.

85 | P a g e

Steps to measure NPT:

Study about the Non Productive Time

Select Manufacturing Organization for Implementing the Study

Visiting the Industry and Visual Observation

Select an Operational Section

Prepare a Data Sheet for a specific product style

Analysis of Current state by Calculating value added and non-value added time

Identifying the area of Non-productive time before Root Cause Analysis

Identifying Root Cause of Non-productive activities

Applying Root Cause analysis process for Non-productive Activities

Conclusions and Recommendations

We have identified major problems in sewing line like that line setting, waiting
for work, repair work in production line, personal amenities, machine breakdown,
thread/bobbin change, moving, discussion etc. These are the few example of loss of
time. Different non-productive works have a great impact on productivity. After that
effective suggestion and recommendations are made to reduce the non-productive
time.

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STUDY : Loss Time due to Machine Setup

GARMENT: Ladies Shirt
FABRIC: 100% Cotton
Style 1:

FRONT OF THE GARMENT

BACK OF THE GARMENT

FACTORS CONSIDERED:
Machine time: Machine time is mainly the time required to set the machine for the
new style. Time is also involved in moving the machines from the main shop floor
area to the maintenance area and back and rearranging them as per the garment
process flow. Most of the time is required in replacing machine with new machine of
different specification, setting the machine with folders and attachment as per the
new style, setting the stitch length, adjusting the presser foot and minute adjustment
for fine tuning etc. Setting folders and attachments consumes huge amount of
machine setting time.
Batch setting time: Batch setting time can also be assigned as waiting time as it
results out of lack of preproduction planning in sewing floor. This is a non-value
added activity that can be drastically reduced with proper planning and time & action
87 | P a g e

calendar, checklist, operators skill matrix etc. Much of the time is wasted in trying to
assemble the required tools, equipment, templates and man power to start the new
style. This is due to lack of pre planning for the task of style changeover. It is
observed that huge time is wasted in search for right cut parts or cut bundles or the
preproduction sample or sealed sample to start the production on time. Flow of
information as to which style is to be loaded in which line, lack of on time and
appropriate technical specification about the style often leads to huge confusion in
the sewing floor that leads to increase in style change over time. Layout planning
and machine planning is often seen to be done during the Set up time which stands
as bottleneck point during style change over.
Demonstration time: Demonstration time is the time required to demonstrate the
critical operations in the new style to the operators with the right method and the right
equipment. This is an important activity but a time consuming as the learning ability
depends on the skill level of the operator and the style of the product. Repeat orders
or simpler styles may require very less or no demonstration. At times re6demonstration takes a huge time.

Machine Setup Record Format

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PARETO ANALYSIS

Chart Title
28.57
30
100%
100%
99%
89%
80%
78%
20
60%
4.24
3.5
10
0.53 40%
20%
0
0%

Time Loss (hr)

Percentage

OBSERVATIONS:
From the readings and observations it has been concluded that 89% of loss
time can be reduced by reducing the machine ideal time and batch setting time.

Reasons:
Machine Ideal Time: Poor Floor planning, Assembly line Balancing problem, Getting
instruction about new styles of product from the line supervisor, Getting fabrics,
threads and other accessories from the cutting and store section, Getting needle,
guide and other tools for the new style product from maintenance department.
Batch Setting Time: Changing bobbin thread, accessories such as needle, boot etc.
not available, Machine change; Nose, needle, thread change; New lopper
adjustment; New guide adjustment; Trial run and adjusting the machine.

Control analysis:
(i)

Incomplete information about new style allocation: No proper or

complete information about the new style that has to be run next on the
line.
For eradicating this, there must be pre-meetings with the floor managers,
supervisors, engineers and mechanics and proper information should be
provided to them regarding any new styles, so that pre-planning could be
done which will help in reducing the loss time.

(ii)

Skill Selection: Operators for critical operations must be selected

beforehand based on their skills and efficiency and they should be given

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prior training during extra time, so that the time is not wasted in trials or
demonstrations, once the line is set.
Steps taken for setting the line:
Operation Breakdown of the Garment

Identification of no. of machines required

Identification of the Attachments (Boots, Needles, Threads)

Arrangement of the attachments and threads required

Pre- planning of machine and line setup

Line Setup
SUGGESTIONS:
1. Start the setup operation before the day of new style operation (if possible).
2. Pre-arrangements such as Pre-planning of line setup, arrangement of boot,
thread and other attachments.
3. Assign the expert mechanics at the right time to solve the adjustment problem
or any machine problem.
4. Implement parallel operation for quicker setup. Parallel operations divide the
setup operation between two people, here one is operator himself/herself and
other one is helper who must be expert in setup operation for various sewing
machines.
5. Optimize the start-up time by eliminating trials and adjustment.
6. Eliminating trials and adjustments is done by making good settings before the
operator start-up the machine for new operation.
7. Make sure that all accessories are available in sewing section, when it is
needed.
8. Make sure that all accessories and equipment are arranged properly (set in
order) in store & maintenance department, so all these things can be bring at
a right speed without much time spends.
Style 2:
Line Setup done by implementing the above given suggestions.

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Front of the Garment

Back of the Garment

Machine Setup Record Format

Pareto Analysis

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Chart Title
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0

6.96

100% 100%
90%
80%
70%
60%
50%
40%
30%
20%
0.54
10%
0%

95%
77%

58%
2.31

2.16

Time Loss (hr)

Percentage

Result:
Factors
M/c Ideal Time
M/c Time
Batch setting Time
Demonstration Time
Total Time

Time loss(hr.) in Style 1

28.57
3.5
4.24
0.53
36.84

Time Loss(hr.) in Style 2

6.96
2.16
2.31
0.54
11.97

Graph:

Chart Title
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0

36.84
28.57

6.96

11.97
3.5 2.16

4.242.31

Time loss(hr.) in Style 1

0.530.54

Time Loss(hr.) in Style 2

Improvement% = (36.84 -11.97)*100/36.84

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=67.5%
Hence, by implementing the given suggestions we have observed that the
time loss due to line setup could be reduced.

LEARNING

14 week internship in Pearl Global gave us an industrial working exposure about how
to work in team and enhanced our decision making skills.
It provided our technical knowledge of garment industry about machines, processes
and tools used in production and whole industry for smooth work flow without hassle.
We learnt how to deal with international buyers and manage work flow on large order
to complete on proper time with precision quality and standards.
Dedication with passion and self-control at production floor, how to deal with
workers, manage them with accurate balancing and work management.

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THAN
K YOU

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