Major Defects - Any Identifiable Deficiency or Discrepancy in A Fabric

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Major Defects Any identifiable deficiency or discrepancy in a fabric

adversely affecting factors of appearance, fit, serviceability, merchandising


claims, life or customer appeal to a degree that would provide a discerning
customer with justification for a return, complain, or a similar expression of
customer dissatisfaction

Minor Defects - Any deficiency or discrepancy not sufficient in degree to be


classified as a major defect and not considered to be justifiable reason for a
return or complaint.

Types of Fabric Defects


Yarn Defects
Weaving Defects
Dyeing & Printing Defects
Finishing Defects

Yarn Defects

Broken filaments
Coloured flecks
Knots
Slub
Oily Yarn

Weaving Defects

Broken ends woven in a bunch


Double end
Hole
Float
Weft bars or patti
Missed pick or jerki
Slack end
Snarls
Slough - off weft
Reed marks
Stop Marks

Bar- A band running across the width of the fabric:


Pick bar- due to difference in pick spacing
Causes: Mechanical faults- faulty gearing in take-up motion. Loose beam
collars, cracked, broken or bent beam gudgeons.
Tension bar or shiner- due to difference in weft tension.
Causes: Fur catching in weft yarn, rough spots in the cop, large knots in weft
yarn, long tails along edge after shuttle change.
Shiners are caused due to mechanical defect.

Weft bar- due to difference in material, count, twist, luster, color or shade of
adjacent groups of yarns.

Box mark- fine widthwise line showing stained or injured weft due to rubbing
of shuttle when it rebounds.
Causes: Dirty boxes, shuttle riding over the weft, oil from shuttle tongue,
springs, dirty shuttles, weft flying about too freely, oil splashes from loose
cranks, dirty picking sticks.

Starting mark- isolated bar that starts abruptly and gradually fades away.
Causes: Restarting weaving after i) pick finding ii) unweaving /pulling back iii)
prolonged loom stoppage

Broken pattern-
Causes: Wrong drawing of threads, inserting pick in wrong shed, incorrect
lifting of warp threads.

Broken pick- pick missing from a portion of the width.


Causes: Rough shuttle eyes which snag the weft, poor winding, improper
pirn insertion, rough shuttles and shuttle boxes, sharp weft fork prongs

Cracks- narrow streak due to opening between adjacent yarns.


Causes: worn/loose crank shaft or crank arm bearings, loosed reed, sticking
take-up motion, faulty weft soft motion, brake motion

Cut weft- shows as pin hole


Causes: use of weak weft with strong warp, sharp reeds and tight selvedge.

Defective selvedges-

Curled selvedge- incorrect balance of cloth structure between body and


selvedge.
Causes: Tension difference, differential shrinkage, excessive weft tension

Cut, torn or burst selvedge- selvedge sticking to emery roller, damages


caused by temple roller

Loppy selvedge- limp

Pulled in selvedge- edges pulled in.


Due to isolated tight picks.
Rugged selvedge- wavy selvedge showing corrugation at the edges.
Due to variation in the tension of selvedge ends.

Slack selvedge- may cause cut, torn or burst selvedge during subsequent
processing. Due to incorrect balance of cloth structure, selvedge yarns at low
tension.

Tight selvedge- due to incorrect balance structure high tension of selvedge


yarns during weaving

Uneven selvedge - variation in weft tension, lack of control on no. of


selvedge ends

Float stitches- warp and weft do not interlace.


Causes: Entanglement of warp threads, knots with long tail ends breakage of
heald wires on running loom, unsatisfactory working of warp stop motion,
static electricity in case of synthetic yarns

Fuzzy- fibrous appearance of cloth.


Causes: Presence of abraded yarns.

Hanging threads- loose ends on the face of the fabric.


Causes: long and short ends of warp not removed by weaver after piecing
up.

Missing ends- gap of one or more ends.


Causes: weaver does not mend broken ends, missing ends in beam
Warp breakages due to:
Faulty working on looms on account of-
Faulty shuttle tips
Rough shuttle
Too high or low shedding
Rough surface on sley race
Too early or late picking
Weft pirn projecting above the top of shuttle
Damaged reed
Jerky movements of healds

Poor yarn quality


Faulty preparation of beam
Improper atmospheric condition
Improper functioning of warp stop motion
Reed marks- irregular spacing between groups of warp yarns.
Causes: defective reed, late shedding.
Remedy: raise the back rest so that ends in the shed will be slacker than in
lower shed.

Shuttle marks- marks due to abrasion of warp yarns by the shuttle.


Causes: sheds not adjusted properly

Slough-off- bulk of weft yarns which slips off the pirn.


Causes: loose winding of pirn, harsh picking

Stains- oil, grease, rust, dirt, soil, carbon particles, sweat, crayon stains, box
mark.
Causes: poor material handling, poor oiling and cleaning.

Sticker- tight and slack places in the same warp yarn.


Causes: movement of warp yarns restricted due to knot or slub catching at
lease rods, drop wires, healds, reeds.

Tear drop- in taffeta fabrics as short curved picks.


Causes: insufficient warp tension, incorrect heald timing, over sized warp,
uneven penetration of sizing solution

Temple mark- holes or surface disturbances along selvedge due to bad or


improperly adjusted temples.

Uneven cloth- inconsistent diameters of weft can produce shady cloth, if


teeth of ratchet wheel worn or broken, it makes thick places
Wrong denting
Wrong drawing
Control of fabric quality at loom state

Fabrics graded into six categories:

Fresh or first quality- no major or objectionable faults


Short length or two parts- shorter than specified by the buyer,
acceptable after 3-5% discount
Seconds- minor defects present but not objectionable, acceptable after 8-
15% discount
Fents- cut pieces of length 90-150cm, discount of 15-30% given.
Rags- cut pieces 25-90cm long, 50% discount allowed.
Chindhies- pieces less than 25cm. Trade discount of 50-80% given

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