Corelation Between Lab and Bulk

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TO FIND CORRELATION BETWEEN LAB-TO-BULK

DYEING
A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT
Submitted by
Suraj
Rishikesh
Anusha Kabra
Pravin Ralebhat
Rathin Shelani
RAYMOND LTD.
(TEXTILE DIVISION), VAPI
N.H. NO. 8, KHADKI-UDWADA, TAL.-PARDI,
DIST.-VALSAD, PIN- 396185, GUJRAT, INDIA
July 2017

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
It gives me a great pleasure in presenting the project report To find correlation Between Lab-to-
bulk dyeing. This project has been completed by the help of colleagues and industrial mentors.
My Training could not be a success without the help, guidance and valuable direction of some very
important persons.
I am very much thankful to Mr. A.A. Bambardekar, Mr. Benjamin Hembrom, Mr.
Manishkumar B. Panwala, Mr. Shashinath Mishra and Mr. Abhijit Chakraborty for their
valuable guidance.
I am also thankful to all Head of the departments and other concerned persons for giving their
expert guidance and valuable information.
I am very much grateful to staff members and people from RAYMONDS LTD who helped us
directly or indirectly in completing my project work.
Finally yet importantly, I would like to thank my parents, friends for great support and to Centre for
Textile Function for giving me such great kind of opportunity.
PREFACE
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To be a textile technologist is a matter of pride as one can be in such a field to show his / her
creativity by playing with several fibres to prepare a base for textile industry.
Mere bookish or theoretical knowledge cannot help you in any field whether it is management,
technology, research etc. The only thing that can help you having a sound in practical knowledge of
the concerned field. I have been very fortunate to receive practical knowledge from one of worlds
top worsted woollen industries Raymond Ltd. (Textile Division), Vapi
I received my training at Raymond as a requirement of the textile curriculum. This training has
made me clear the difference between the theoretical knowledge and the practical scenario, making
me aware of the importance of practical working condition.
I have tried to present whatever knowledge I gained, and learned at Raymond during my training
period in a very systematic manner.
ABSTRACT

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The manufacturing of a textile begins with the fibre input, whereby each processing step results in an
added cost to the final product. As dyeing of a textile is often the last step in the manufacturing of a
fabric, it requires extra caution to get it right by avoiding waste and maintaining cost control.
After each dyeing the missing dye component was added to the bath until the shade was matched. The
smaller the number of reformulation, the more skilful the dyer was considered. The Right-First-Time
(RFT) concept meant that at each dyeing the target shade was achieved the first time, hence not
requiring colour addition or re-dyeing.
The accurate correlation of a laboratory dyeing to a production dyeing lot is a universal concern of
dyeing operations. Laboratory dyeing techniques, which are both accurate and repeatable to bulk dyeing
processes, are absolutely essential for the optimization of the production output and the cost
effectiveness of the modern competitive dyeing operation.
Maximization of "right-first-time" dyeing and minimization of redyeing, colour additions, and off-
quality problems, such as shading within the dye lot, are direct results of optimum lab-to-plant dyeing
correlation.
There was a problem of shade variation of dyed fabrics in a textile company leading to the increase in
process cycle time due to the extra amount of colour addition or stripping.
In this project study, the attempts were made to identify the suitable parameters for the lab dyeing
machine and the bulk dyeing machine to correlate between them for lab to bulk shade variation.
Keywords
Lab to bulk reproducibility, Disperse dye, Metal complex dyes, CCM
CONTENTS

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Chapter no. Titles Page no.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 2
PREFACE 3
ABSTRACT 4
CONTENTS 5
1 INTRODUCTION 6
1.1 Process Flow 6
1.2 Laboratory dosing system 10
2 LITERATURE REVIEW 13
2.1 Need to Study the Shade Variation 13
2.2 Laboratory - Bulk Reproducibility 13

2.3 Factors effecting dyeing reproducibility 14
2.4 Types of reproducibility 14
2.5 Lab-to-plant strategies 15
2.6 Evaluation of Dyed Samples 15
3 EVALUATION OF DYED SAMPLES 20
3.1 Introduction 20
3.2 Materials 20
3.3 Dyes and Chemicals 20
3.4 Machines and the Laboratory Instruments 22
3.5 Methodology 22
3.5.1 Bulk dyeing 22
3.5.2 Laboratory dyeing 32
4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 36
4.1 Result analysis 36
4.2 Major Difference between laboratory and bulk dyeing 37
5 CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 38
CHAPTER: 1 INTRODUCTION

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In order to get required color wool can be dyed in any of the following three forms Top, yarn or
fabric.
Before dyeing the bulk, a sample is dyed for matching the color on spectrophotometer. Once the
required shade is obtained bulk dyeing is done.
For top dyeing process wool and polyester are dyed separately as they have different properties.
Wool is dyed using metal complex and reactive dyes while polyester is dyed using disperse dye.
Once the material is dyed it is hydro-extracted for removing the water from it. The left over
moisture in the material is removed by passing it through RF (Radio Frequency) Driers.
The dyeing unit at Raymond has a 14 ton capacity per day.

There are 34 dyeing machines of the brand "Loris Bellini" imported from Italy:
14 machines having 30 kg dyeing capacity.
14 machines having 120 kg dyeing capacity.
6 machines having a 240 kg dyeing capacity.
After receiving the order, the shade of the sample in the order is matched to the colour directory
present. If the exact shade is found, the pre-determined recipe is used. If a match for the shade is not
found, then experiments are conducted in the sampling unit to formulate the recipe.
1.1 Process Flow
The processes taking place in the unit are as follows:
Raw material (Final product of Grey combing)
Loading on carrier/ Pressing (According to requirement of material to be dyed)
(30kg, 120kg and 240kg machine carriers are used)
Loading in machine (Loris Bellini HTHP vertical package dyeing machine)
Dyeing process
Hydro
RF Dryer
Sample gilling
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Shade check
Formation of delivery card
Delivered to Re-combing department
Sample Approval
1.1.1 Pressing:
The grey tops from the grey combing section are placed on carriers and pressed
using a hydraulic pressing machine. The carriers come in various capacities:
30 kg: Has a single cylinder and can hold 4 tops. The pressing is done manually.
120 kg: Has four cylinders and can hold 16 tops. The pressing is using hydraulic pressing
machine.
240 kg: Has eight cylinders and can hold 32 tops. The pressing is using hydraulic pressing
machine.
The cylinders are perforated to allow in-out flow of dye bath for even dyeing. The
dye enters inside the hollow of the cylinders through the base of the carriers. A balance has to be
maintained on the carriers for even distribution of weight of tops, i.e., if 'n' number of tops are
present on one cylinder, the exact same number of tops should be present on the cylinder opposite
to it.
1.1.2. Dyeing
Mostly the tops are dyed in Bulks and then all the Bulks are blended together to give the most
accurate shade and look to the fabric. For blends, the tops of each type of fibre are dyed separately
due to differences in properties of fibres. For example, if 100 kg of a blend of 75% polyester and
25% wool has to be made, then the tops can be divided into Bulkes as follows:
Bulk 1: 25 kg wool
Bulk 2: 50 kg polyester
Bulk 3: 25 kg polyester
The first Bulk is dyed and its shade is noted. If the required shade is darker, more dye is added in
the next Bulkes to give the required shade; and vice versa.
The recipe of the dye bath is as follows:
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WOOL:
The dyeing of wool is done at 98C.
Table 1.1 Recipe for Metal Complex Dye:
SHADE
CHEMICAL LIGHT MEDIUM DARK EXTRA DARK
GREEN ACID 1gpl 1 gpl 1.5gpl 1.5gpl
300
SODIUM 2 gpl 2 gpl 2 gpl 2 gpl
ACETATE
LYOGEN SMK 1 gpl 0.75 gpl 0.5gpl 0.5gpl
GREEN ACID - 0.5 gpl 1gpl 1gpl
300
FINOCOL POL - 1% 1.50% 1.50%
FINOCOL POL - - 1.50% 1.50%
FINOSTATE 1.2% 1.2% 1.2% 1.2%
CONC
GREEN ACID 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30%
300
ESN 1.25% 1.25% 1.25% 1.25%
Table 1.2 Recipe for Reactive Dye:
CHEMICAL NAME Dark / Extra Dark

FORMIC ACID 3 gpl
SODIUM ACETATE 2 gpl

LYOGEN WSN 1 gpl
FORMIC ACID 2 gpl
LIQUOR AMMONIA 1%
FINOCOL POL 1.5%
FINOCOL POL 1.5%
FINOSTATE CONC 1.2%
GREEN ACID 0.30%
ESN 1.25
POLYESTER:
The dyeing of polyester tops is done at 130C.
Table 1.3 Recipe for Disperse Dye:

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CHEMICAL NAME LIGHT MEDIUM DARK EX. DARK

GREEN ACID 0.25gpl 0.25gpl 0.25gpl 0.25gpl
TEXPERSE BF 1 gpl 1 gpl 1.1 gpl 1.2 gpl
FINOSIL-AB 0.7 gpl 0.7 gpl 0.5 gpl 0.5 gpl
FRANCOSSIST RC - 1% 1.50% 1.50%
GREEN ACID -300 - 0.40% 0.40% 0.40%
FRANCOSSIST RC - - 1.50% 1.50%
GREEN ACID -300 0.30 % 0.30 % 0.30% 0.30%
FINOSTATE CONC 1.2% 1.2% 1.2% 1.2%
GREEN ACID -300 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30%
ESN 1.25% 1.25% 1.25% 1.25%
Table 1.4 Recipe for REACTIVE LOW TEMPERATURE DYEING
R-LTD Dark & Ex. Dark

MIRALAN LTD 2%
FORMIC ACID 2gpl
SODA-ASH 5%
FORMIC ACID 1gpl
FINOCOL POL 1%
FINOCOL POL 1%
FINOSTATE CONC 1.2%
GREEN ACID 300 0.30%
ESN 1.25%
The dye bath is prepared in the colour dispensing machine and then supplied to the dyeing machines
using pipes. After the dyeing process, the dye bath is discharged and soaping and washing of
material is done.
1.1.3. Hydro extraction:

Hydro extraction is done to remove the excess water from tops. The process lasts for 15 min for
polyester and 20 min for wool. Three hydro extraction machines are present in the unit and each
machine has a capacity of 16 tops.
1.1.4. RF Drying:
RF dryer or relative frequency dryer is used to completely dry out the tops. The time taken to dry
depends on the season and the amount of humidity present in the atmosphere.
1.1.5. Checking of Sample

After drying, a 10 gram sample is made with each Bulk blended in its respective ratio using a
gilling machine. The sample is checked using a spectrophotometer which gives details about the

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deviation of the sample made from the required sample. A deviation up to 0.5 is accepted, whereas
for export quality material, a deviation of 0.3-0.2 is accepted.
The Spectrophotometer present was of the brand "AGS" and the model was "Color Eye 7000A
Greytagmacbeth." E is calculated using a software called ColoriControl. E is the sum of A and
B (i.e. the total color difference). The graph shown below calculates the total colour deviation.
1.2 LABORATORY DOSING SYSTEM
1.2.1. PPA 120

Fig. 1.1 Lab dyeing machine- PPA 120
It is characterized by an high productivity, guaranteed by the Ugolini s.r.l., that allows the
contemporary and independent use of phases. As such the waiting time for washing does not have
any impact on the machine productivity. The dosing system PPA is designed to perform the
following functions:
Composition of archive of stock
solutions
Direct composition and dosing of a
recipe, without consulting archives.
COMPOSITION OF RECIPES TO BE
STORED IN RECIPE ARCHIVES,
ACCORDING TO:
Name of the customer, material,
name / code of the recipes.
Quick recall of recipes and con
formation of dosing, with all
dosing operations visualized in the screen.
Step by step sequence followed and displayed on the PC screen.
Double syringes (while one is dosing, the second will be under washing circuit, so waiting times are
eliminated) driven by motors step by step to be very accurate in positioning. The unit for the manual
preparation of the solution is fully integrated with the main frame of the machine. The unit is
composed by:
Balance Mettler with precision 0.01 gr.
Automatic hot water dosing.

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Fig. 1.2 PPA- 120 (Color Dye, Ugolini s.r.l.)
THE SCALE IS MOREOVER USED FOR:
Weighing of the sample to be dyed

Automatic calibration of the syringes
Calibration of colorants (for those with specific weight).
All the bottles, with the solutions inside, are equipped with stirring capsules, driven by magnetic
induction. It is also possible to make the solution preparation process completely automatic,
connecting PPA with our MP unit (automatic system for solution preparation), to renew the expired
solutions.
DOSING SYSTEM FOR RECIPES:

Accuracy of the volumetric dosing: +/0.01 cc.
Tubeless dosing.
Self learning system for the progressive improvement of the dosing cycle, singularly for
each solution.

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Dispensing speed: up to 180 dosages per hour that means that supposing that one recipe
needs 4 different solutions we can produce about 45 recipes/hour.
Amount of solution that the injectors can take in once up to 35 cc.
Fast and accurate calibration process in 60 seconds.
CHAPTER: 2 REVIEW OF LITERATURE

2.1 Need to Study the Shade Variation

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Suppose for a particular shade and quality of customer requirements, the dye house processes the
fabric according to some recipe and the fabric is accepted by the customer. When the same
customer sends the next order for the same quality of the fabric in the same shade, the dye house
persons process the fibres/yarns/fabric of the same quality according to the previous recipe
maintaining the relevant parameters of the process the same as the previous one but surprisingly the
shade differs from the sample sent by the customer and also from the previously processed material
of the same quality.
Sometimes the weaving department prepares the material ordered by the customer and delivers to
the dye house for dyeing piece after piece. While dyeing the first piece, the dye house adjusts the
recipe and other parameters according to the required shade. When they process the subsequent
pieces of the same lot, variation with respect to the shade of the fabric sample occurs.
Owing to variation of the shade as compared to the sample, color addition/color stripping are carried out
which unnecessarily increases the process cycle time, labor cost along with the wastage of dyes,
chemicals, power, and sometimes fibres/yarns/fabrics also.
2.2 Laboratory - Bulk Reproducibility

While matching the shade in Laboratory, the bulk application parameters should be borne in mind
and the parameters for the lab dyeing m/c should be modified suitably such that the shade produced
in the lab dyeing m/c is reproducible in the bulk.
The pressure applied on the HTHP Vertical package dyeing machine, gradient and holding
temperature should be manipulated and established to obtain the shade that would reproduce in bulk
with the same recipe. This can be established carrying out a few trials. This exercise would be
easier where the configuration of Bulk and Laboratory dyeing m/c are similar.
Where the lab dyeing m/c does not provide the features available in the bulk, say as in the case of
an ordinary dyeing m/c and the bulk dyeing machine having advanced features, even under identical
expressions, the laboratory matching would tend to give higher colour yield than the bulk for the
same recipe. The bulk would require increase in recipe concentrations, particularly in heavier tops.
In a real situation quite a number of trials had to be taken to simulate bulk-dyeing results at the
stage of laboratory matching. Once such conditions and parameters are set, the Laboratory dyeing
m/c would behave in the same fashion as the bulk and therefore each of the dyestuffs would tend to
behave similarly at the laboratory and bulk dyeing stages. Establishing laboratory dyeing m/c
conditions and parameters that would correspond to bulk would solve most of the problems related
to Laboratory to bulk reproducibility.

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In this project study, attempts were made to identify the root causes of the lab to bulk variation
problems and to find out the possible remedies. The objectives of the practical were:
1. To identify all possible causes contributing to shade variation.
2. To study the contribution of each significant cause of variation.
3. To decide actions necessary for the contributing factors in the dyeing process.
After the observations of the objectives involved a fish bone diagram is prepared for the lab to bulk
variation of fabric.
The following causes of the problem were considered for the study in detail:
Variation in dye uptake due to recipe prepared manually and through computer (dyeing);
Variation of temperature in processing from the actual requirement.
Variation in measurement system of shade due to checkers (dyeing).
The poor accuracy and reproducibility of the formulas developed in the dyeing laboratory has best
been illustrated by the often used dyers practice of subtracting 10-15% from the lab recipe before
proceeding to production lots. One approach useful for improving consistency is to consider this
process as a plant-to-lab correlation. In other words, every factor that might influence optimum
dyeing conditions in the production process should be considered, evaluated, and simulated where
possible in the lab process with no shortcuts. Each factor leading to shade variability, large or small,
should be evaluated and controlled to the best possible extent.
2.3 Factors effecting dyeing reproducibility

1. Water supply 5. pH of dye bath
2. Type of substrate 6. Time/temperature profile
3. Dye application method 7. Method of accessing colour
4. Liquor ratio 8. Weight basis for recipe calculation
2.4 Types of reproducibility -

1. Lab-to-lab reproducibility
2. Lab-to-bulk reproducibility
3. Bulk-to-bulk reproducibility
2.5 Lab-to-plant strategies

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In practice, dyers often adjust lab dye formulas for production equipment based on their personal
experience. This approach has the potential for poor dyeing correlation. Due to the relatively low
cost of lab dyeing compared to production and the low cost of lab dyeing mistakes, some companies
perform multiple lab dyeing (at least three) as an alternative. If this is the case, then average these to
obtain the predicted production recipe.
A common circumstance occurring with the customers of dyeing companies is that they may
compare a lab dyeing that is unfinished with fabric from the finished production lot. Chemical and
mechanical finishing techniques have a great potential to change the shade of the dyed lot. Where
possible, any chemical or mechanical finishing techniques used on the production lot should also be
used on the lab dyed swatches. As a word of caution, because lab scale surface finishing equipment
is not always representative of production processing or even readily available, dyeing companies
often attempt to surface finish goods before lab dyeing instead of after dyeing. Unfortunately, the
dyeing process normally alters the surface so that the lab dyeing will not be representative of the
production dyeing. The key issue is to communicate to customers exactly what the lab dyeing
actually represents.
2.6 Evaluation of Dyed Samples

2.6.1 Determination of Colour Difference
CIELAB or Star Lab (L*A*B*) System
In this system, both rectangular and cylindrical coordinates are used. In the former

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These are applicable when
Two more values are also calculated C (chroma) and H (hue):
LAB and LCH are shown in fig. 12 and fig. 13 respectively,
Fig. 2.1 LAB as rectangular coordinates

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Fig 2.2 LCH as cylindrical coordinates
The positions of various dyes of different hues may be shown on AB diagram (fig. 14). It is
interesting to note that all the colour sensation can be shown with the help of red-green (A) and
yellow-blue (B) coordinates. In this case lightness darkness (L-value) is not considered.
Thus, orange is a combined sensation of redness and yellowness; purple, of redness and blueness.
There are only the hue terms the dyer or printer normally uses while describing the hue differences.
There are red, yellow, green and blue sectors and dyes outside these sectors have different tones.
For example, a red dye outside but above the red segment (fig. 14) is yellower. A red dye falling in
the red-blue quadrant is bluish red. Similarly, dyes in the same quadrant, but outside the blue sector
are reddish blue.
The dyeing departments keep a standard for each of the shade they dyed. When a fresh Bulk is
made the different colour characteristics of the Bulk are compared to those of the standard and the
differences are found out. If they are within limits, the Bulk is passed; otherwise suitable additions
of dye/ dyes are made and the differences again found out. This method ensures the same hue of the
Bulk to be made.
For this purpose, the values of L, A, B, C and H of each standard and sample are calculated by the
method described earlier.
Comparison of the Bulk (Bulk) is made with respect to the standard (STD) as follows:
L = LBULK LSTD
A = ABULK ASTD
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B = BBULK BSTD
C = CBULK CSTD
H = HBULK HSTD
Then the total colour difference (E) can be considered as the distance between the two points
(LBULK, ABULK, BBULK) and (LSTD, ASTD, BSTD).
E may be split into three components in two different ways LAB splitting and LCH splitting.
2.6.2 LAB Splitting

In this, L, A and B are calculated.
L = LBTH LSTD
A = ABTH ASTD
B = BBTH BSTD
Where, L indicates lightness; if L is positive the Bulk is lighter than the standard and if L is
negative, it is darker. A indicates the difference in the A-coordinate on red-green axis; if A is
positive, the Bulk is redder than the standard and if A is negative, it is greener. B indicates the
difference in the B-coordinate on yellow-blue axis; if B is positive, the Bulk is yellower than the
standard and if B is negative, it is bluer.
The total colour difference (E)
Is also expressed as
Where L*, a* and b* are calculated by the same equations used for calculating L, A and B
respectively as described earlier. The latter is the CIE 1976 (L*a*b*) colour-difference formula,
while the former is that recommended by the Society of Dyers and Colourists.

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Table 2.1: Significance of Sign of H
Hue of standard Sign of H Nature of difference

Red + ve Bulk is yellower than standard
Red - ve Bulk is bluer than standard
Yellow +ve Bulk is greener than standard
Yellow - ve Bulk is redder than standard
Green +ve Bulk is bluer than standard
Green - ve Bulk is yellower than standard
Blue +ve Bulk is redder than standard
Blue - ve Bulk is greener than standard

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CHAPTER: 3 MATERIALS AND METHODOLOGY

3.1 Introduction
This chapter deals with the materials and chemicals that were used for the experiment, various
testing of the materials and chemicals, procedure of the experimental works, machines and
instruments were used and the evaluation method of the samples.
3.2 Materials
3.2.1 Dark/Ex. dark shade
Wool (21.0 mic), Normal Polyester (2.0 DNP)
3.2.2 Medium shade
Wool (18.2 mic), Normal Polyester (1.5 DNP)
3.2.3 Light shade
Wool(22.5 mic), Normal Polyester (2.0 DNP)
3.3Dyes and Chemicals
3.3.1Dyes:
For polyester tops Disperse dyes are used.
Shade Dyes
Dark/Ex. dark shade 1. FORON BLACK RD-2GSI 200

2. FORON LEMON YELLOW S-4GLI
Medium shade 1. CORALENE BLUE BGR

2. CORALENE VOILET SBR
3. CORALENE YELLOW BROWN 2RS
Light shade 1. CORALENE NAVY BLUE S-2GR
2. CORALENE RUBINE S2GFLW
3. CORALENE YELLOW BROWN 2RSF

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For Wool tops Metal complex dyes are used.
Shade Dyes
Dark/Ex. dark shade 1. ISOLAN BLACK 2S-LD

2. ISOLAN YELLOW 2S 2GLN
3. ISOLAN OLIVE 2S-BGL
Medium shade 1. ISOLAN SCARLET 2S-L
2. LEVASET BLUE 2R
Light shade 1. ISOLAN OLIVE 2S-BGL
2. ISOLAN BROWN 2S-RL 01
3. ISOLAN DK BLUE 2SGL
3.3.2Chemicals:
For Disperse Dye:
CHEMICAL NAME
GREEN ACID 300
TEXPERSE BF
FINOSIL-AB
FRANCOSSIST RC
FINOSTATE CONC
ESN
For Metal Complex Dye:
CHEMICAL
GREEN ACID 300

SODIUM ACETATE
LYOGEN SMK
FINOCOL POL
FINOSTATE CONC
ESN

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3.4 Machines and the Laboratory Instruments
Sr. No. Machine Used Make of the Machine

1 TRS- Automatic dosing of dyestuff Colorservice
2 RBNV-I Vertical Package Dyeing (HTHP) machine Loris Bellini dyeing machines
3 Hydro-extractor Loris Bellini dyeing machines
4 RF Dryer Stray field
5 ------
Gilling machine
6 PPA 120 (COLOR DYE) Ugolini S.r.l

7 Color Eye 7000A Greytagmacbeth AGS
3.5 Methodology
3.5.1 Bulk dyeing
Polyester top dyeing (Ex. Dark)
Fig. 3.1
2.5c/min
4c/min
4c/min
Exhaustion Diffusion
Program No. RPA4

Shade NO. 86817
Tops quantity 16
Weight of material 136kg

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M:L Ratio 1:10

Recipe
Symbol Component Quantity Description

A ( Chemical) Green Acid 300 gm pH
Texperse BF 1440 gm Buffering agent
Finosil AB 600 gm Levelling agent
B (Dyes) FORON BLACKRD- (6.00%) Disperse dyes
2GSI 200
FORON LEMON (0.2%)
YELLOW S-4GLI
C Sample Check --- To check the sample at 120c to

ensure the correctness of the
quality and type of fibre to be
dyed
RC (Reduction clear) Francossist RC-55 2.04 kg Reduction clear in acidic
Green acid 544 gm medium
ESN( Hot Wash) Franconon ESN 1.360 kg Hot wash with universal
cleaning agent (ESN)
D (Antistate) Finostate CONC 1.632 kg Antistatic agent
Green acid 408 gm
Dyeing process of polyester tops starts when required weight of top is introduced in to top
dyeing machine. Water start entering through inlet valve with the help of Helicocentrifugal Pump,
the flow of water will be In-to-out direction to ensure proper wetting of fibre top take place. Once
the tope is completely wet then flow of water will reversed i.e. out-to-in with pump speed 30% of
the RPM of the pump.
At temperature 30c Chemicals are (green acid, buffering agent and levelling agent)
introduced in the dyeing bath through TRS system. After addition of chemicals temperature regulate
to 45c with temperature gradient of 4c/min, then temperature holding takes place for 10 min. after

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this holding time dyes are added into the dye bath with the help of TRS System at 45c. Then again
temperature regulation takes place to 120c with temperature gradient of 4c/min. then temperature
holding takes place for 5min. Again temperature regulation takes place to 130c with temperature
gradient of 2.5c/min. then temperature holding takes place for 60min.
After 60 min hold at 130c HT drain takes place to remove oligomers. Two times RC will takes
place at 80c for 20 min. after RC, hot wash takes place at 80c for 20min.
Wool Top dyeing (Ex. Dark)
Program No. RWA4

Shade NO. 86817
Tops quantity 16
Weight of material 136kg

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Recipe

Sodium acetate 2400 gm Buffering agent
Lyogen SMK 600 gm Levelling agent
B (Dyes) Isolan black 2S-LD 2.4% 1:2 Metal complex dyes
Isolan yellow 2S 0.2%

2GLN
Isolan olive 2S-BGL 0.4%
C Green acid 300 1200 gm For Exhaustion at pH 4.5 to 6
Soap Finocol POL 2.04 kg To remove superficial dyes
from the dyed tops
Soap Finocol POL 2.04 kg To remove superficial dyes
from the dyed tops
Green acid 408 gm
Dyeing process of wool tops starts when required weight of top is introduced in to top dyeing
machine. Water start entering through inlet valve with the help of Helicocentrifugal Pump, the flow
of water will be In-to-out direction to ensure proper wetting of fibre top take place. Once the tope is
completely wet then flow of water will reversed i.e. out-to-in with pump speed 30% of the RPM of
the pump.
At temperature 30c Chemicals are (green acid, Sodium acetate and Lyogen SMK) introduced in
the dyeing bath through TRS system. After addition of chemicals temperature regulate to 40c with
temperature gradient of 4c/min, then temperature holding takes place for 10 minute. After this
holding time dyes are added into the dye bath with the help of TRS System at 40c. Again

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temperature regulate to 50c with temperature gradient of 3c/min, then temperature holding takes
place for 5 min, Then again temperature regulation takes place up to 80c with temperature gradient
of 3c/min. then temperature holding takes place for 5min. Again temperature regulation takes place
to 98c with temperature gradient of 1c/min. then temperature holding takes place for 40min.
After 40min hold at 98c green acid 300 introduced in to the bath to increase the exhaustion dyes,
then again 20 minutes holding takes place at 98c.Two times soaping will takes place at 80c for 20
min. after soaping, hot wash takes place at 80c for 20min.
Polyester top dyeing (Medium Shade)
Dyeing cycle of Polyester with Disperse dyes (Medium Shade)
2.5c/min
4c/min
Exhaustion Diffusion
4c/min
Program No. RPA2

Shade NO. 261653
Tops quantity 11
Weight of material 93.5 kg
M:L Ratio 1:10
Recipe

P a g e | 27

B (Dyes) Coralene blue BGR 1.16% Disperse dyes
Coralene voilet SBR 0.181%
Coralene yellow brown 0.096%

2RS
quality and type of fibre to be
dyed
Green acid 408 gm
Dyeing process of polyester tops starts when required weight of top is introduced in to top
dyeing machine. Water start entering through inlet valve with the help of Helicocentrifugal Pump,
the flow of water will be In-to-out direction to ensure proper wetting of fibre top take place. Once
the tope is completely wet then flow of water will reversed i.e. out-to-in with pump speed 30% of
the RPM of the pump.
At temperature 30c Chemicals are (green acid, buffering agent and levelling agent)
introduced in the dyeing bath through TRS system. After addition of chemicals temperature regulate
to 45c with temperature gradient of 4c/min, then temperature holding takes place for 10 min. after
this holding time dyes are added into the dye bath with the help of TRS System at 45c. Then again
temperature regulation takes place to 120c with temperature gradient of 4c/min. then temperature
holding takes place for 5min. Again temperature regulation takes place to 130c with temperature
gradient of 2.5c/min. then temperature holding takes place for 60min.
RC will takes place at 80c for 20 min. after RC, hot wash takes place at 80c for 20min.

P a g e | 28
Wool Top dyeing (Medium Shade)
Program No. RWA2

Shade NO. 261653
Tops quantity 11
Recipe

B (Dyes) ISOLAN SCARLET 2S-L 0.05% 1:2 Metal complex dyes
LEVASET BLUE 2R 1.2%
C Green acid 300 1200 gm For Exhaustion at pH 4.5

to 6
Soap Finocol POL 2.04 kg To remove superficial
dyes from the dyed tops
ESN( Hot Franconon ESN 1.700 kg Hot wash with universal
Wash) cleaning agent (ESN)
Green acid 408 gm
Dyeing of Wool with Metal complex Dyes (Medium Shade)

P a g e | 29
Dyeing process of wool tops starts when required weight of top is introduced in to top dyeing
machine. Water start entering through inlet valve with the help of Helicocentrifugal Pump, the flow
of water will be In-to-out direction to ensure proper wetting of fibre top take place. Once the tope is
completely wet then flow of water will reversed i.e. out-to-in with pump speed 30% of the RPM of
the pump.
At temperature 30c Chemicals are (green acid, Sodium acetate and Lyogen SMK) introduced in
the dyeing bath through TRS system. After addition of chemicals temperature regulate to 40c with
temperature gradient of 4c/min, then temperature holding takes place for 10 minute. After this
holding time dyes are added into the dye bath with the help of TRS System at 40c. Again
temperature regulate to 50c with temperature gradient of 3c/min, then temperature holding takes
place for 5 min, Then again temperature regulation takes place up to 80c with temperature gradient
of 3c/min. then temperature holding takes place for 5min. Again temperature regulation takes place
to 98c with temperature gradient of 1c/min. then temperature holding takes place for 40min.
After 40min hold at 98c green acid 300 introduced in to the bath to increase the exhaustion dyes,
then again 20 minutes holding takes place at 98c. Soaping will takes place at 80c for 20 min. after
soaping, hot wash takes place at 80c for 20min.
Polyester Top Dyeing (Light shade)
Program No. RPA2

Shade NO. 87908
Tops quantity 9
M:L Ratio 1:10

P a g e | 30
Dyeing of Polyester with Disperse Dyes (Light Shade)
Recipe

B (Dyes) Coralene navy blue S-2GR 0.0560 Disperse dyes
Coralene rubine S2GFLW 0.0220
Coralene yellow brown 0.1020

2RSF
quality and type of fibre to be dyed

P a g e | 31
Green acid 408 gm
Dyeing Process will be same as Ex. Dark and Medium Shades but the difference is, in light shade
only hot wash will be done After Dyeing.
Wool Top dyeing (Light Shade)
Program No. RWA1

Shade NO. 87908
Tops quantity 6
Dyeing of Wool with Metal complex Dyes (Light Shade)
Recipe


P a g e | 32
B (Dyes) ISOLAN OLIVE 2S-BGL 0.0150% 1:2 Metal complex dyes

ISOLAN BROWN 2S-RL 01 0.0259%
ISOLAN DK BLUE 2SGL 0.0192%
C Green acid 300 1200 gm For Exhaustion at pH 4.5
to 5
Soap Finocol POL 2.04 kg To remove superficial
dyes from the dyed tops
ESN( Hot Franconon ESN 1.700 kg Hot wash with universal
Wash) cleaning agent (ESN)
Green acid 408 gm
Dyeing Process will be same as Ex. Dark and Medium Shades but the difference is, in light shade
only hot wash will be done After Dyeing.
3.5.2 Laboratory dyeing
In laboratory dyeing, same dyes and depth are used for dyeing the wool and polyester fibre of
weight 20 gm. Dyes and chemicals are automatically transferred in to the dyeing bath at 25c. M:L
ratio used for dyeing is 1:25. Once dye process will b started then it is automatically controlled by
sensors and follows particular dye cycle for dark, medium and light shades for respective wool and
polyester fibre. Dye cycle and parameter are shown below:
Extra dark polyester
Green acid: - 1.5gpl
BF: - 1.2gpl
DFT-AB: - 0.25gpl
RC: - 1gpl

P a g e | 33
Extra dark wool
Green acid: - 1.0gpl; BF: -2gpl; SMK: - 0.5gpl
Medium Shade Polyester
Green Acid: - 1.5gpl
BF: - 1.2gpl
DFT-AB: - 0.35gpl

P a g e | 34
Medium Shade Wool
Green acid: - 1.0gpl; SMK: - 0.5gpl; Sodium acetate:- 2.0gpl
Light Shade Polyester
Green Acid: - 1.5gpl
BF: - 1.2gpl
DFT-AB: - 0.5gpl
P a g e | 35
Light Shade Wool
Green acid: - 1.5gpl; BF: -1.2gpl; SMK: - 0.5gpl
After dyeing fibre are dried in hot air oven, and then sample will be gilled in gilling machine.

P a g e | 36
CHAPTER: 4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

4.1 Result analysis
In order to find correlation between laboratory and bulk dyeing an appropriate method is required
to compare both bulk and lab sample. For this we used CCM to compare both sample of each
category and results are given below.
Table I: CMC Difference Values of Samples
Sr. Shade Process L* a* b* DL* Da* Db* DE Remark

No. no.
2.0 Denier normal polyester- Extra dark shade

1 86817 Standard 15.79 0.55 -0.80 Darker,
2 86817 Bulk 15.67 0.42 -1.34 -0.12 -0.13 -0.54 0.81 greener-blue
21 Wool-Extra dark shade
3 86817 Standard 15.75 0.54 -1.38 Darker, redder-
4 86817 Bulk 15.04 0.62 -1.34 -0.71 0.08 0.04 0.71 yellow
1.5 Denier normal polyester- medium shade
5 261653 Standard 34.02 3.16 -31.81 Darker, greener
6 261653 Bulk 33.66 1.75 -30.58 -0.36 -1.41 1.38 1.31 -yellow
18.2 Wool- medium shade
7 261653 Standard 38.42 0.76 -30.62 Darker, redder
8 261653 Bulk 37.00 1.86 -32.49 -1.42 1.10 -1.83 1.46 -blue
2.0 Denier normal polyester- light shade
9 87908 Standard 62.14 0.91 4.02 Darker,
10 87908 Bulk 1 59.78 0.63 2.55 -2.36 -0.28 -1.47 1.94 greener-blue
11 87908 Bulk 2 59.44 0.68 2.50 -2.70 -0.23 -1.52 2.06
22.5 Wool- light shade
12 87908 Standard 67.69 1.23 4.92 Darker, greener
13 87908 Bulk 1 65.04 0.64 5.34 -2.65 -0.59 0.42 1.44 -yellow
14 87908 Bulk 2 65.48 0.61 5.43 -2.21 -0.62 0.51 1.39
*Standard: - lab sample
From above Table I, it is understood that always bulk sample is darker than lab sample. For dark
shade, E is always remains in tolerance limit. But in case of medium shade, E will cross

P a g e | 37
tolerance limit and leads to shade & depth variation. While in case of light shade value of E much
higher than tolerance value due to this we can see variation in shade with our naked eyes.
4.2 Major Difference between laboratory and bulk dyeing.
There are number of differences in both practices, some of them are given below:
1. Dyeing machine: - In case of bulk HTHP vertical package dyeing machine made by
Loris Bellini are used, whose capacity ranges from 30 kg to 240 kg. But in lab. PPA
120 with HTHP miniature dyeing machine made by Ugolini s.r.l. used, whose
capacity ranges from 20gm to 130 gm.
2. M:L ratio: - In bulk , 1:8 to1:10 m:l ratio are used. While in lab 1:25 m:l ratio are
used.
3. Difference in dyeing program: Dyeing program for same shade and same fibre in
lab and bulk are different in some respect i.e. their dyeing cycle1, number of
chemical auxiliaries and antistatic agent (Bulk).
4. In lab, all chemical and dyes are transferred in bath at 25c after introduction of
filled carrier and water. But in bulk dyeing after introduction of carrier and water
chemical are transferred from chemical tank in to the dyeing bath at particular
temperature then dyes are transferred at particular temperature according to dyeing
cycle.
5. Chemical recipe for lab and bulk are different for same fibre for same shade
percentage and dyes.

P a g e | 38
CHAPTER: 5 CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

In the case of all shades, bulk sample is darker than lab sample. For dark shade, E is always
remains in tolerance limit. But in case of medium shade, E will cross tolerance limit and leads to
shade & depth variation. While in case of light shade value of E much higher than tolerance value
due to this we can see variation in shade with our naked eyes.
The simulation of any potential dyeing circumstance encountered in the production dyeing process
should be replicated in the lab dyeing process. The high cost of shade corrections in production
justifies extraordinary efforts to improve lab-to-plant dyeing reproducibility. Automating lab
processing can have a positive effect on dyeing accuracy and consistency. Careful selection of
compatible dyes and auxiliary chemicals for the lab and production lots is crucial.
Current practice should be routinely evaluated for overlooked inaccuracies and avoidable errors.
Laboratory dye formulas with the aid of computer programs can be systematically adjusted to
routine bulk dyeing conditions. Lab dip to sample scale to production often gives the best reliability
to the predicted production recipe. Good lab-to-plant dyeing correlation is a constant work in
progress due to the sensitive and complex nature of textile dyeing.

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Page |1

TO FIND CORRELATION BETWEEN LAB-TO-BULK

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

top worsted woollen industries Raymond Ltd. (Textile Division), Vapi

me aware of the importance of practical working condition.

period in a very systematic manner.

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

Chapter no. Titles Page no.

2.2 Laboratory - Bulk Reproducibility 13

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

The dyeing unit at Raymond has a 14 ton capacity per day.

1.1 Process Flow

The processes taking place in the unit are as follows:

Raw material (Final product of Grey combing)

Loading on carrier/ Pressing (According to requirement of material to be dyed)

(30kg, 120kg and 240kg machine carriers are used)

Loading in machine (Loris Bellini HTHP vertical package dyeing machine)

Formation of delivery card

Delivered to Re-combing department

Table 1.1 Recipe for Metal Complex Dye:

Table 1.2 Recipe for Reactive Dye:

CHEMICAL NAME Dark / Extra Dark

SODIUM ACETATE 2 gpl

Table 1.3 Recipe for Disperse Dye:

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

CHEMICAL NAME LIGHT MEDIUM DARK EX. DARK

Table 1.4 Recipe for REACTIVE LOW TEMPERATURE DYEING

R-LTD Dark & Ex. Dark

1.1.3. Hydro extraction:

1.1.5. Checking of Sample

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

1.2 LABORATORY DOSING SYSTEM

1.2.1. PPA 120

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

Fig. 1.2 PPA- 120 (Color Dye, Ugolini s.r.l.)

THE SCALE IS MOREOVER USED FOR:

Weighing of the sample to be dyed

DOSING SYSTEM FOR RECIPES:

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

CHAPTER: 2 REVIEW OF LITERATURE

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

2.2 Laboratory - Bulk Reproducibility

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

2.3 Factors effecting dyeing reproducibility

2. Type of substrate 6. Time/temperature profile

3. Dye application method 7. Method of accessing colour

4. Liquor ratio 8. Weight basis for recipe calculation

2.4 Types of reproducibility -

2.5 Lab-to-plant strategies

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

2.6 Evaluation of Dyed Samples

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT

These are applicable when

Two more values are also calculated C (chroma) and H (hue):

LAB and LCH are shown in fig. 12 and fig. 13 respectively,

Fig. 2.1 LAB as rectangular coordinates

A SUMMER INTERN PROJECT REPORT