una

august 2010
Dear Reader,
The Westfjords are known for sheer sea cliffs, long narrow fjords, magnifi- tains, watching puffins on the cliffs, kayaking in the fjords, visiting many
cent ocean views and majestic mountains. If you want to experience the swimming pools, and last, but not least, getting know the locals. We talked
unique atmosphere of unspoiled, wild nature and traditional fishing villages, a lot. To fishermen, musicians, cooks, waitresses, priests, directors of univer-
this is the right place for you. sities, children. And everyone we met, was so open, friendly and willing to
share his or her little story.
In this magazine you can see the Westfjords in pictures and descriptions,
coloured by the individual feelings and experiences of 23 young people from And now we would like to share it with you.
all around the world. For two weeks we have explored the nature, towns,
people and history of this region. We tried to find an answer to one ques- We know that it is not possible to put all the power and beauty of nature,the
tion – how do people survive in a place which is so far from civilization as we kindness of people, the peace, harmony, legends and stories we have dis-
know it and where it is dark almost half of the year? covered in the West fjords in these few pages.

We spent a lot of time on the road, trying to absorb as much adventure as we But we hope, that the work we have done, will help you connect with even a
could. We were bathing in the hot tops by the sea shore, hiking up the moun- small part of this magic place.
pictures from flateyri
everybody come to swim!
Iceland, a land of endless natural resources and water is certainly sons and in compliance with the Icelandic health policy. Do not
one of them. Icelandic people have managed to make the best forget!
use of this unlimited resource by building swimming pools all
around the country. In fact, almost every village, even the tiniest During our 2-week work camp in the Western Fiords, we spent 10
ones, has their own swimming pool. days in Flateyri, a 300-inhabitant village surrounded by a beau-
tiful and atmospheric landscape. Flateyri offers visitors the op-
Visitors to swimming pools can enjoy warm water, either natu- portunity to do various activities, among which kayaking in the
ral or heated, always ranging from 25C to 30C in the swimming fiords (from April to September, contact www.kajaktravel.net, email ka-
pools and up to 45C in the relaxing hot tubs. The water is heated jak@simnet.it), trekking along its amazing trails, spending time in
thanks to the abundance of cheap geothermal power. the lively bar and the possibility to relax in the village swimming
pool and hot tubs.
In a country surrounded by slightly freezing cold water, swim-
ming pools play an important social role in Icelandic culture: The swimming pool is located in a modern sports centre,
school children learn how to swim (all Icelanders must be able to equipped with a gym, a sauna and a hot tub. The staff consists of
swim) and play in their free time; adults do aerobics and all kinds 1 person in winter and 2 people in the summer, when there are
of water sports; parties are held in swimming pools and above more tourists attending the swimming pool and the facility is
all hot tubs are a meeting point for people who gather and talk open every day (in winter it is open only 4 days a week).
about all types of subjects, from politics to gossip. Fishermen
relax themselves in the hot tubs after work; they talk about their We interviewed one staff member, Smari Snaer Eiriksson, 22
daily catch enjoying the coffee served next to the bubbling wa- years old, from Flateyri, who is going to start university in Reyk-
ter. javik in September and works in the swimming pool as a summer
job. In the swimming pool, he is in charge of selling entrance tick-
Warning to all visitors: having a shower without swimsuit ets, cleaning and works as a life guard. In order to be a lifeguard,
before getting into the water is compulsory due to hygienic rea- he has to renew his lifeguard license every year.
This public swimming pool is attended by
few local people (only 10 local people out
of 300 go every day) in winter and Icelan-
dic tourists and World Wide Friend volun-
teers in the summer.

Smari said that people’s habits have been

changing over the years. More people
used to go to the swimming pool before
the terrible avalanche that hit the village
in 1995. 200 people left the village after
the tragedy and the current population
amounts to 300. According to Smari peo-
ple do not go to the swimming pool main-
ly because they are lazy, but also because
the entrance fee is more expensive than in
other places.

If you want to go the swimming

pool, these are the prices:

• Entrance fee 440 kr

• Children from 0-15 years free entrance!
• 10 tickets 3,390 kr
• 30 tickets 8,290 kr

Smari looks forwards

to seeing you!
During our excursions, we have had the Kristof: Yes, a lot. During summer, I usu-
possibility to enjoy a pleasant relaxation ally go to the swimming pool every day
in a swimming pool. Thanks to this expe- but in the winter, as I go to school, I go
rience, we met Icelandic people to whom only in the weekend.
we asked for some information abou
Giuseppe: How many pools have gener-
swimming pool organization.
ally an Icelandic swimming pool?

We went to the Isafjordur’s public swim- Kristof: Icelandic swimming pools often
ming pool. While I swam I have met two have more than one pool, such as an
children who played in the water. I have
outdoor heated pool with a hot water.
observed Icelandic people are nice and
There may also be a sauna and spa pools
children, in particular, like meeting people
(“jacuzzis”).
of different cultures.
Giuseppe: Very well…Do you like playing
I started play with the 2 children and, after with a ball or swimming with a life
shyness moment, I asked them for some
buoy?
information.
Kristof:I like playing with Petr. It’s so
Me: My name is Giuseppe. Nice to meet amazing. And what about you?
you. What’s your name?
Giuseppe: In my country, we go to the
---: My name is Petr swimming pool only to learn how to

---: My name is Kristof. Nice to meet you swim. So play in the swimming pool is for-
too. bidden! Here I like taking

Giuseppe: How old are you? pleasure in warm water with my new in-
ternational friends and playing withn you.
Kristof: I am 10 years old.
Kristof: Thank you. I like playing with
Giuseppe: Do you like going to the swim-
you. Where are you from?
ming pool?
Giuseppe: I’m from Italy. Do you know Italy? Have you ever watched a tele- me this?
vision program about my Country?
Kristof: I ask you about your metal jewels because our swimming pools
Kristof: No, I haven’t but my parents know Italy. are rich of minerals that can ruin metals.

Giuseppe: Why there isn’t chlorine smell in your swimming pools? Giuseppe: This is an important and useful information. Thank you

Kristof: Chlorine? What is the chlorine? Kristof: You are Welcome! I like talking with you

Giuseppe: Chlorine is a chemical disinfectant used to maintain the water Giuseppe: Kristof, would you take a photo with me? I will write a feature
clean! story and I’d like putting also a photo of us!

Kristof: ok… There is no chlorine smell in our swimming pool because we Kristof: Of course
donot put it in water. For this reason, you are compelled to take a shower
without swimming suit before entering in the pool
After having taken a photo, we carry on playing
Giuseppe: Ok I have taken a shower
with Francesco, Nerea, Elena and Emy.
Kristof: Have you removed your metal jewels such as necklaces and brace-
lets?

Giuseppe: I do not wear metal jewels, only a wood bracelet. Why do you ask
First step in Iceland
Iceland is a place apart from the rest of the world, standing alone in the To help them in their first step in Iceland,
there is the Multicultural and Information
Atlantic and Arctic oceans, with its own culture, its own way of life, its own Centre. This initiative came originally from
an interest group on cultural diversity in
language and its own freedom. For the last five years, the percentage of immi- the Westfjords. Funded by the Ministry of
Social Affairs in 2001, the centre is locat-
gration has significantly increased. Today, more than 7% of the population ed in Isafjordur but offer services for the
whole country.
in Iceland comes from other countries, mostly from Poland, Germany, Serbia,
At the beginning, there was only one em-
Spain, Russia, Denmark and Latvia. They are young (between 20 and 30 ployee but in just few years, the team has
grown up to four employees. Their main
years old) and usually move to work in the Building and Fishing industry, or goal is quite simple but very useful: giving
assistance over the phone and online in 5
also the cleaning services in hostels, hospitals, etc. When you travel in Iceland languages (English, Polish, Thai and Ser-
bian/Croatian).
for a couple of week, all these specificities that make Iceland such a unique
In other words, they try to facilitate com-
country make you feel lost, so you can easily imagine how immigrants are munication between Icelanders and for-
eign citizens and to enhance the services
feeling when they arrive on this unique island … provided to newcomers living in Iceland.
They also provide specific services to the newcomers, from
translation (when visiting a medical doctor or during parent and
The Multicultural and Information Centre
teacher interviews in schools) to help in administration, including
courses in Icelandic, etc.
is definitely one of the keys of your
Ari Klaengur Jonsson, Project Manager of Information, works on
integration in Iceland !
the website which is mainly dedicated to give information about
the way Icelandic people live. “When you arrive here, the main
problem is not really about prejudices, because the Icelandic peo-
ple are open minded. It’s more about communication and different
problems of usual life. For example, find a house in a town like Isaf-
jordur, it can be difficult if you don’t know anyone.”

One of the other priorities of the Multicultural and Informa-

tion Centre is the teaching of Icelandic. You can find information
about courses on the website. They also sell a leaflet on school
rules intended for children who are starting school and don’t yet
know how to read or write in Icelandic. “Of course speaking Eng-
lish is enough to live here but I think that you really have to learn
Icelandic to feel integrated, not just to communicate but to under-
stand the culture.”

So if you plan to move in to the Westfjords, don’t worry and

don´t hesitate, you know now that there is a place where you can
find help, information and support.

The Multicultural and Information Centre

is definitely one of the keys of your
integration in Iceland !
Face to face
 Here, you know that the road passes through the mountains
just for you, and makes a space in the wilderness, like a thief.

At the airport, the night is still young, the light is just beginning to go to I see the dreams and loneliness at the same time in his eyes.
sleep and I arrive in Iceland in silence. I walk the streets of Reykjavik slowly, I He just says : “ Me too I want to travel again but you know how is life some-
don’t really know where I am going or how the next two weeks will turn out. times…” He doesn’t have to finish this sentence, we both know the end.
We will be twenty four people from different countries, all together in the
West fjords to participate in a photography and journalism workcamp. The The next day we finally arrive at our new home, Flateyri. The sunset is won-
meeting point is scheduled, there is a place in the world, a little point on the derful, the sky is high and the mountains are orange. I walk in this beauty
map that is waiting for us. After the first presentations, the fear has gone and wish to reach the top of the mountains just behind the village. The wind
and we are all ready to start this adventure. is strong, my body fights to stand up. Far away, near the coast, at the other
side of the fjord, sheep enjoy the last hours of light, the bar will be open to-
Our first stop : Drangsnes. Everyone´s first words are: “The end of the night, our neighbour has just finished cleaning his garden. Even on this naked
world”. The West Fjords, this part of Iceland where the tourists never used ground, life grows. Behind Flateyri, the memories of the 1995 avalanche is
to come, has begun to seduce us. The light of the house on the cliff goes on hidden behind the protection wall. In the cemetery, one candle is still alight.
and off alone in this infinity. At the harbour, a boat full of fishes arrives, the Here, you know that the road passes through the mountains just for you, and
fishermen watch the scene from the hotspots on the beach, while they take makes a space in the wilderness, like a thief.
a beer and talk about their journey. Like a child in a circus, I take a seat with
them and my white body becomes red like a lobster´s. The night takes her Alone with my country and my memories, I turn the music up loud in my
time to come, we talk about the future in Iceland. A young man with sad headphones and sing words so precious to me. But they mean nothing to
eyes, Artur , asks me where I come from and when I answer Quebec, Canada, the people here. Since arriving in Iceland, I realize the power of this beauty
that I have never seen before in my life. You know that you are lucky to be She accepts the Catholic religion provided that the priest can be married.
alive and to be a guest in this universe that doesn´t need us to survive. This is
the kind of beauty that you don’t see in towns where the light never sleeps, At Thingeyri, I will remember Hildur Inga Rúnarsdóttir, a 31 year old priest,
where the sky is too small. Sometimes you cannot capture this moment or so open minded. At the crucial question of life after death she simply an-
landscape in your camera, you have to keep this wild image in you. swered “ I don’t know what is waiting for us after death, I never go there.”
No final answer, just an inde-
I thought that I was used
to loneliness, that I know
This is the kind of beauty that you don’t see in towns pendent mind, for a free Ice-
land. In this village I will also
her name and her daily
moods. Everyday of my
where the light never sleeps, where the sky is too small remember Janne Kristensen
who has just opened the Sim-
life I have tried to tame her but Iceland taught me that real loneliness is not bahöllin Café with her boyfriend, Wouter Van Hoeymissen.
a luxury that you choose, it seeps into the first years of childhood, when you
learn how to play football alone with the sound of the sea. It comes when About the impact of the café in Thingeyri, she answered : “ You know it’s hard
you wait for the end of the winter to return to the coffee shop, when you fall to change the habits of people here. Most of our customers are tourists or come
in love with a traveler who will never come back after this summer. Here the from other villages in Iceland. The locals are proud of this place, they come
loneliness comes with the majesty of the landscapes, it’s the price one pays once or twice in the year to show it to their family, but they don´t come often.
to be part of all this purety. It is a unique language that you cannot speak If they were comfortable reading the newspaper with a latte each morning in a
anywhere else in the world. café, they wouldn´t choose to live here you know.”

Loneliness is not only a So loneliness is also a way

bad thing that preoccu- Here the loneliness comes with the majesty of the landscapes, of live here, and you have
pies you, it’s also a kind to be careful to not disturb
of pride, something that it’s the price one pays to be part of all this purety it. It’s a part of the Icelandic
you feel strong inside culture and wealth.
your heart and comes
with you no matter how far you travel. Iceland is a strange planet, indepen- This workcamp is almost finished and I will remember all of the volunteers
dent and free. This freedom is everywhere. Iceland stands by herself in the who left their lives behind for these two weeks to discover this unique and
ocean, face to face with the polar circle. She doesn´t ask for anything. She lonely Iceland. We all return to our countries with so many pictures in our
doesn´t wait for anybody. She chooses a lesbian president while the United hearts and on our cameras, hopeful words etched in our memories and I
States asks if they are ready to vote for a black man. think that we will be less lonely than before…
In Summer, days are so long that
it could be always afternoon.
Bright sky, clear clouds, light everywhere.
Take a look to these pics
and try to discover what time is it!

How long is a day in Iceland?

Mysterious Iceland
Although Icelandic history is short it has lots of traditions inher- The West Fjörds are an important literary reference in the Sagas,
ited from its Scandinavian origins that evolved into a rich and especially Gísli Súrsson Saga. This Saga tells the story of the first
varied popular culture full of myths, legends and beliefs. Many woman that settled in the lands of what is now Bolungarvik: Purí-
stories of this kind can be found all along the Icelandic territory, dur Sundafyllir.
it is in the area of the West Fjörds where some of the most repre-
sentatives had been cradled. Purídur, originally from Denmark/Norway, had the special ability
of attracting fish to the nets of the fishermen. (?) The legend tells
Nowadays, Westerns inhabitants declare not to believe in what that after a big argument with her brother Pjodolfur because of
they call “bed time stories”. Nevertheless, deepening in the ori- land, the powerful woman cornered him at the top of a cliff, forc-
gins of their folklore, it is possible to realize that Icelandic popu- ing him to hide jumping down. He landed in a rock in the middle
lation hasn’t lost for good their beliefs. of the sea. Tradition says that the rock was inhabited by hidden
people who sheltered Pjodolfur for several days. Since then, no-
body ever heard about him and that’s why Bolungarvik inhabit-
Sagas ants thought that he was bewitched.

Sagas are the masterpieces in Icelandic literature. “Saga” means,

literally “What was seen in ancient times” and are based in the Witchcraft and sorcery
events happened in Iceland during the 250 years after following
the settlement of the Island (XII-XIII centuries). All of them ap- The most talented sorcerers lived in the West Fjörds and most
proach epic stories such as fights, love stories or family dramas. notably in the coast of Strandir. Many texts gather all kinds of
spells that witches used for getting everything that they wanted:
And although many of these stories seem to have historical ori- sickness, love, money and even food.
gins, the oral tradition has given a major number of magical ele-
ments to the action: legendary characters who live together with In the XVIIth century Strandir was the epicenter of a widespread
mythological creatures, long trips to unknown lands, etc. witch hunt. Pointing a finger at the neighbor was enough to get
him killed. To be cleared of any wrong do- Then, he had to steal a coin from a poor
ing, the condemned (most of them were widow on one of the major church holi-
men, opposite to continental Europe) had days and put it in the scrotum. As long as
to find 12 peers who could testify to his in- the coin was in it, the necropants’ owner
nocence (quiet difficult in a sparcely popu- would magically come into possession of
lated region). If unsuccessful, the witch money.
was burn to death on a pile of wood usu-
ally built from the prisoner’s disassembled
house.
Nature spirits
Iceland is also known for being influenced
Also the accuser was given the death
also by some of the old german traditional
man’s property as compensation, allow-
myths. There are many places where small
ing that many families as the legendary
people are believed to be living in. It is
sheriff Magnús Magnússon’s became very
also said that those magical beings help or
wealthy because of these procedures.
damn everyone who is their own ways.

We can find the origins of many of these

Every garden, roof or cave is it able to be
tales in the Witchcraft and Sorcery Muse-
a proper place to find that kind of noise-
um in Holmavik. There can be found many
less beings. For instance, it is believed that
objects related to those prohibited arts.
near Isafjödur is easy to find small fairs,
gnoms and guardian angels.
One of the most remarkable examples are
the necropants, a part of a spell for mak-
In addition to this, Icelandic people
ing money. The owner of a pair of necro-
strongly believe in elves. They are de-
pants had to make a contract with a living
scribed as a little human but smaller, and
man allowing you to exhume him and skin
they don’t like to be disturbed.
his lower body. Step into the pants and
they will become permanently stuck on
However, if one were to favor these elves
their owner.
the same person would be bountifully re-
warded, for example in many folklore tell-
ings it is remarked that those that aid elf Popular beliefs,
women in childbitrh have been very fortu-
nate.
myth or reality ?

Westfjords is a place where trolls live as

Jóhanna Kristjándóttir
well or, at least, that is what some people
Inhabitant of Flateyri
beliefs. Icelandic trolls are massive fear-
“We have a lot of stories about that. Not everybody can see. Elves par-
some creatures that reside in caves and
ticularly live in big stones, in flowers in the garden… Maybe you find
caverns of Iceland mountains. Many of
people that claim that they have seen them but not many people really
them cannot bear the sunlight and if sun-
believe in that... And if you move the rocks where hidden people live,
shine were ever to shine on them they
they can take revenge and something bad would happen to you”
would be turned to stone.

As a curiosity, there is a legend which says

Gudný Hildur Magnusdóttir
that the isthmus between Iceland and
Bolungarvik Major´s assistant
Westfjords was created by two trolls fight-
“Yes, there is one. A legend about the first person who moved here
ing with each other.
from Norway in 800-900, Purídur Sundafyllir. It says that she was half
a woman and half a sorceress. She settled in Bolungarvik with her son.
What local people in Wesfjords believe
We don’t have so much information but there are a lot of legends that
about their own legends?
people have told each other about her.”

Here there are some opinions of people

who live in Westfjords about the social
Thelma Hjaltadóttir
feelling to that kind of legends.
Journalist of BB Local Newspaper (Isafjodur)
“I have heard stories about trolls but nothing like that. It´s not a mythol-
ogy that actually people believe in. If you see the mountain, over the
airport, there is like a seat in it and people tell children that there was a
troll over there and nobody believes it no more. It´s like a fairytale.”
TASTE THE VIKING FLAVOUR!
Are you really sure to be brave? need to be patient. Also for the bread, Icelanders are really pa-
Try to taste typical Icelandic food: for example, delicate mutton’s tient: baking their typical bread (Rúgbrauð) takes ten hours. You
testicles in milk’s water (Súrsaðir hrútspungar) or delicious rotten can bake it in the oven, but if you are lucky enough to live in the
shark (Hákarl). South, you can also put the ingredients in a can and cook it in a
boiling geyser!
Shark meat is very toxic when you catch it. For this reason, you
need to bury it in the ground and wait for six months, or more And what about whales?
before having a smelling snack! After this, to be able to support In a lot of restaurants you can normally find big whale steaks (or
the strong taste in your mouth, you absolutely need to take a sip whale sushi) on the menu. Also puffins (Lundi in Icelandic), the
of freezy Brennevín. photogenic birds with the orange , are on the menu: it’s quite
common find them smoked, roasted or cooked.
Do you think your stomach wants more or not?
If you aren’t satisfied yet, you could enjoy Slátur, unbelievable Do you prefer something less adventurous?
sausage made of lamb liver or blood, water and rug flour, all in Don’t worry! You can choose between lot of kind of soups,
lamb intestine. People say that this is very good for pregnant creamy Skyr (similar to yogurt) with blueberry or simply with
women! sugar and tasty Kleinur, fried twisted donughts. And a huge, im-
pressive quantity of amazing cakes and waffles, with an overdose
When summer finishes, it´s the real The Silence of the Lamb: of sweet cream and sour rhubarb jam.
sheeps come back from mountains and their meat is so tender,
so appetizing, so perfect, that you could eat every little part of But if you are vegetarian, and wonder how to avoid whale,
them…and actually Icelandic people do. Except the brain, every- lamb and puffin meat during your time in Iceland, you will find
thing it’s edible: fried heart with potatoes, kidney, blood, liver everything you need but get ready to pay the price: two thirds of
making fantastic sausages (Svið)…heads too. the vegetables sold in Iceland are imported.

Yes, heads! Why not?

You can roast them straight on flames and devouring all, in- Enjoy your meal, and please, join us
cluding yummy eyes and skin. Or you can use the head to do an
amazing jelly (Sviðasulta): just put it in a big pot and cook it for with a glass of Brennevín! Cheers!
long, long, long time. If you want to have something special, you
WESTFJORDS SOUNDS
If music is the sound of soul, There are two very important vocal per-
formance styles in Iceland, one using the
Iceland has its own. And above all
term kveða and the other syngja. The
parts of this beautiful island, first a performance practice referred to as
kveðskapur or kvæðaskapur. Kveðskapur
Wesffjords peninsula is remarkable.
is also the generic Icelandic term for poet-
ry. The term syngja translates as to sing.
Traditional music exist in all countries and
cultures, but in Iceland the evolution of
The sound of this music is sometimes mel-
that one has been different because of
ancholic, but there are also other songs
its situation away both Europe and North
whose lyrics tell about romantic stories
America.
and, of course, songs about the most
famous legends in Iceland: the Sagas, a
Traditional Icelandic folk music remained
compilation of the pioneers who came to
widely performed into the last decades of
that part of the world mixed with mythol-
the 19th century, when folk collecting be-
ogy and mysticism. As a difference with
gan in the country. However, the advent
other traditional sounds, there are no
of Western classical music and other for-
particular instruments used to play these
eign influences in the same period began
songs. The most used one is achordeon.
leading to a decline in traditional music.
It was very popular at the end of the nine-
Later, the arrival of popular music fur-
teenth century, and now it is becoming
thered this change; some folk music was
again, with piano too.
recorded between the World Wars, but
intense collecting did not begin in earnest
until nowadays.
Icelandic people feel a great love for its own environment and culture, and It is easy to feel the power of music in this wonderful area surrounded by
they try to preserve and develop it in the best way they can do, that is, keep- many fjords and loneliness in the middle of the nature. If you close your eyes
ing alive. Actually, more than 90 per cent of the children in Westfjords are in a windy day and start listening to those beautiful songs you could trans-
in music schools. It is a huge number if it is compared with other European port to a far place, out of time and distance, and you would start to under-
countries. As a matter of fact, the music school of Ísafjörður is the oldest one stand this close but exotic country.
in all the country, established in 1911.
Six popular songs:
One of this example
is Helga Kristbjörg, a “ More than 90 per cent • Oifadir gjör mig litid ljos, composer from Isafjordur Jonas Tomasson
young girl that lives • Thu ert (you are) by Thorarinn Gudmundsson
in Ísafjörður and of the children in Westfjords • Dyravisa- an Icelandic folk song
who works playing • Litla fhugan (the little fly) by Sigfus Halldorsson
traditional songs in are in music schools.” • A sprengisandi by Sigvaldi Kaldalons
Bolungarvik church • Sjomannaralsinn by Sharar Benediktsson
for tourist people that are coming by cruise even more often than ever. She
is an example of how young people care about their own origins and they
promoted to everyone who wants to know them better.
VIKINGS in the West Fjords
Thingeyri, a beautiful village
located in Dýrafjörđur fjord
Thingeyri is part of the Ísafjörđur town municipality that includes
also Hnífsdalur, Flateyri and Suđureyri. The complex is 409 km
away from Reykjavík with a population of approximately 320 in-
habitants.

Exploring the area you will come across the ruins of an ancient Vi-
king settlement, standing by the sea. The village was rebuilt with
the financial help of UNESCO in 2006, on the authentic ancient
position of the buildings; a wooden observation tower rises on
the highest part of the area, while a circular wall, made of stones
and soil, protects the core of the settlement. In the inter-land, 45
minutes walk away from the village, Vikings built a granary.

Sonia Thompson,
the Village-Keeper, The village was rebuilt
has moved to Ice-
land from the USA with the financial help
31 years ago; she
still practices the of unesco in 2006
Vattarsaum, litter-
ally “Needlebinding”, a Viking embroidery art passed on from generation In Thingeyri’s harbor visitors can also admire the biggest Viking boat still
to generation. Following this particular craft, women netted using needles present in Iceland, 24 feet long and made with Estonian wood.
made of sheep’s horn in order to create socks and hats, combining also dif-
ferent kinds of gems and glass pearls. Despite Norwegians forced
the Icelandic population

Every year, during the first Every year, during the first to convert to Christianity “ many communities still
weekend of July, a folk fes- in 1020, many communi-

weekend of July, a folk tival takes place. Several ties still believe in Ásatrú, believe in Ásatrú, the
bands,like the famous Hjal- the ancient Viking religion,

festival takes place. alin Band,come to Thingeyri based on a plurality of Gods, ancient Viking religion ”
to perform. like Thor, God of war, repre-
sented by the hammer.
Troughout the festivity it’s possible to taste a typical Viking soup made of
meat. Among the most famous Viking recipes, it’s also important to mention The main difference between this religion and other confessions lies in the
the “skata”, a traditional fish dish cooked on the 24th of December and the fact that there are no written books or manuscripts and the stories are just
“slaughter”, a soup made of boiled lamb blood mixed with milk. handed on orally from generation to generation.
Its main characteristics are respect for the
nature and braveness in war. According
to Ásatrú, warriors that die in a brave way
will end in Valhalla, a paradise in which an
eternal war takes place, interrupted by cy-
clical beer breaks and festivities.

More information about Viking history

can be found in the Gisla Saga, written by
Snorri Sturluson, a famous Icelandic poet
and politician.

His work tells about the first community

of Vikings, leaded by Gísli Súrssonthat,
who decided to leave Norway and move
to Iceland in 950 A.D.

More information about

Viking history can be
found in the Gisla Saga
never stop exploring
In the fjord there is nothing else and much lage in few minutes and brought a big sad-
more than silence. We are getting ready ness to this picturesque place.
for kayaking. Siggi – a tourist guide from
Flateyri – seems to me both quite and ex- While drinking a beer together in the local
cited. One exciting story about his child- pub named “vagninn” Siggi is telling me
hood in Iceland I want to share with you. further stories about Flateyri and his child-
hood. And they have all one thing in com-
As a ten year old boy he went for a 10 kilo- mon: Inquisitiveness.
metre walk with his friend along the stony
beach from Flateyri to Suðureyri without It is my third time here in Iceland and I
permission of their parents. Coming back am always coming back to the Western
and being very lucky from their excursion Fjords. Here you enter a particular world
their parents were very angry with them – full of secrets just waiting to be discov-
“because it was such a stupid and danger- ered.
ous decision to do this hiking”.
For the common observers small Icelandic
The fjord and the table mountains seem villages might seem lonely and isolated.
so quite and the light shimmered on them But if you keep the child in you and start
like diamonds but they imply an immense exploring you can find so many interesting
danger. things that may change your point of view
afterwards.
One could not imagine that only one sin-
gle avalanche – like it happened in the For example, Siggi has just recently dis-
year 1995 - destroyed the half of the vil- covered a nice hiking path up to the top of
 The elf lady was so grateful that she gave her a kind of paste which she
the mountains around Flateyri where he has never been before. And he has
should put on the boy’s body and face especially in the boy’s eyes. As a con-
been living here since 50 years.
sequence, Brynjólfur became a very brave, noble and clever man who was
able to read and translate the old manuscripts.
What started as a supposing unspectacular stay in Iceland is getting more
and more impressing. The ten days in Flateyri are certainly spinning away
The inhabitants of Flateyri are very proud that Brynjólfur was born in their
and I do not want to think about the farewell at all.
village. From now on whenever I hold a note of 1,000 krones in my hands I
will certainly remember this nice beautiful day as well as Johanna and her
On a cloudy morning we also went
sagas while us standing in the bitter
with Johanna – a lovely lady in her
60s and a living masterpiece in tell- “ never stop exploring wind and following her words like little
children. His image can be found on
ing legends and sagas of the Icelan-
dic culture - to Holt nearby Flateyri. and stay inquisitively wherever you are.” your notes of 1,000 krones as well. Just
check your wallet!
While Johanna is telling us the saga
about Brynjólfur Sveinsson a rainbow appears far away above the fjord. It is a
Last but not least here is my council particularly for the western fjords
mystical day - windy, cloudy and somehow sunny. Brynjólfur was born here.
of Iceland : never stop exploring and stay inquisitively wherever you are.
It is said that his mother Ragnheiður– being a direct ancestor in the tenth
generation of Johanna - helped the elf lady to bear her child.
Þetta reddast!
‘Everything is going to be okay’, Or is it? Global warming has already had a significant impact. Lo-
cals have noticed that winters have become milder, with
far less snow and summers have been warmer and drier.
This is a common phrase used by inhabit-
Over the next decade summer temperatures are expected
ants of the West Fjords. But Þorleifur
to rise by 0.25 °C per decade, and the winters by an av-
erage of 0.35 °C (Iceland’s Ministry of the Environment,
Eiriksson is less sure. He is the director
1997). Considering the extremely harsh winters, most Ice-
landers are delighted by the rising temperatures and ac-
of the West Fjords Natural History In-
tually the country is likely to benefit, at least in the short
term, from the melting glaciers.
stitute in Bolungarvik and his small team
Iceland relies heavily on hydropower and the increase in
are responsible for charting how changes
melt-water from the glaciers is enhancing power produc-
tion.
in climate and environment are affecting
For a country renowned for its pristine environment and
ecosystems in the West Fjords. He is very
lack of pollution, it may surprise you that Iceland does not
have a great track record in the global race to be Green.
worried about the future of the area and
They resumed commercial whaling in 2006, one of just
two nations to defy the global moratorium. Icelandic
believes that, “in ten years the West Fjords
whaling ships can once again hunt endangered fin whales
and minke whales.
could turn into a desert”.
And in Reykjavik, for example, there was She was only partly joking. Ester has
hardly any evidence of recycling. Iceland moved her family from Reykjavik to a tiny,
has one of the highest levels of municipal isolated fishing village in the West Fjords
waste per capita in the world and the av- in order to continue research on Iceland´s
erage individual´s ecological footprint in only indigenous mammal, the arctic fox.
Iceland is 6.02, approximately double the
global average. She has set up a fascinating information
centre for visitors, school groups and local
Local attitudes to the environment, sus- people, but she has struggled with preju-
tainability and conservation vary greatly. dice from some locals. “Here, the term
The director of the ´Arctic Fox Centre´ in ´naturalist´ is an insult”, she told us.
Sudavik, Ester Rut Unnsteinsdottir, claims
that people here take the natural resourc- For both Ester and Þorleifur, piecing to-
es, wildlife and landscape for granted. gether the ´real story´ is the key to sus-
taining the unique environment of the
West Fjords.

She has set up a Their research is underfunded, but critical

to understanding the fragile ecosystems
fascinating information of the region and how tourism, industry
and development are affecting them.
centre for visitors, school
Both research centres rely heavily on
groups and local people. volunteers and financial support from
abroad.

At the Arctic Fox Centre their main re-

She said “business always comes first.
search project is ´Wild North´; a study of
Here, people would sell their grandmother
the effects of tourism on the population
for money”.
and behaviour of foxes. Already she has
 “ Many Icelanders do not She has also made friends
with a 16 year old boy from

know a thing about the foxes, the village who is the de-
scendent of a legendary fox

although they are the most hunter and has grown up

with guns and a passion for

natural thing in Iceland ”. hunting.

He is now her keenest vol-

unteer and has taken re-
noticed the previously gregarious foxes
sponsibility for caring for the centre´s
are becoming shy and increasingly noctur-
orphaned fox cub, Frosty.
nal.

Although the Icelandic government has

Ester is an inspirational woman. She is not
been slow to recognise the need for re-
only working on the ´science´ of the re-
search and sustainability, more funding
gion, but also on the hearts and minds of
has been promised and progress is being
people.
made.

She was horrified that “many Icelanders

But it is thanks to the hard work and dedi-
do not know a thing about the foxes, al-
cation of Ester, Þorleifur, their colleagues
though they are the most natural thing in
and volunteers, that we may be able to
Iceland”.
say ´Þetta reddast´ with a bit more convic-
tion.
Since opening the centre last year, peo-
ple have gradually opened up to her. Fox
hunters, who are still paid a bounty by the
government of 3000 Kroner per fox tail,
have begun to bring her items, such as
snares, to exhibit in the museum.
Why or
Why not
live in
iceland ?
 Why * Iceland is like a nest,
people always come back to it
* You are close to nature

should * In small towns, the community

* The landscapes are beautiful helps you to raise your children
you live
in Iceland * There are work opportunities * You can find interesting jobs

* The country is peaceful and quiet * This country is safe, the crime rate
is low, no need to lock your door
* This is a clean land
* This is the perfect place for children
* The people are open,
friendly, kind and fun to be with * It feels good to be here

* There is a good * The distances are short and

education and health system perfect for outdoor leisure activities

* You can create a lot of * You can be connected to nature

opportunity for yourself
 Why * The darkness in winter
is hard to live with
* Not for you if you’re not used to
living in a small community
shouldn’t
* The weather is difficult * You can feel restricted and
you live and changes quickly oppressed by the landscape

in Iceland * The economic crisis has made * Theaters are almost

the situation hard to live exclusively found in Reykjavik
with higher prices
* You have fewer work opportunities
* There are no work opportunities if you have a high level of education

* Everything is expensive even if * Ecomonic reasons: not enough jobs

the prices are cheaper in Reykjavik and you can be better paid elsewhere

* There is too much * You don’t have many

government control kinds of jobs to choose from

* Icelanders do a shabby business * There aren’t many

of looking after nature leisure activities to do
 Fears of * Entering the EU because Iceland
will be swallowed and they won’t
the people be independant

of iceland * They want to keep their

uniqueness and independance

* All the young people will move

away for their studies and
won’t come back

* Changes in the climate affecting

the sea, the diversity of fishes,
and the landscapes

* Massive companies, big factories

 Being young in the WestFjords
For young people from Madrid, London, Milan or Kristo – 19
from Reykjavik
Brussels, it can seem rare to grow up between sea and
works during holidays in the restaurant of
mountains, where the nearest city is a 5 hour drive. In the maritime museum of Isafjordur

their town there are less than 4000 inhabitants and

the cinema is open only 3 or 4 days a week.
Bryn Jahuld – 23
studies bio-chemistry in Reykjavik

works in the bookshop during

In order to find out a bit more about the lives of summer holidays

young people , we met 7 locals aged 19 to 23 from

Flatteyri and Isafjordur. Although not enough to
Häkon – 18
make statistics (but do you really want to read a sta-
student working for the
tistics article?) you’ll at least get an idea about their city municipality during holidays.

lives, and perhaps how similar they are to yours ?

LIVING HERE Linda Björg
First of all, they like living here. „We are free here. Everybody Gudmundsdóttir - 19
knows everybody. Your parents let you go where you want” says studies piano, hopes to gain a place at
Loftur. Bryn Jahuld would like to raise her children up here for the the Icelandic Academy of Arts but failed
same reason. the first exam so she is waiting for next
year to try again
However few young people stay in Isafjordur without spending
time abroad to learn another language or at least move to Reyk-
javik to study. And after? „You never know” they say. Nowadays
a lot of young people go to Scandinavian countries „It is fashion-
able but it is also because of the prices. Here everything is so ex-
pensive”. They rarely move away for good. Helka, for exemple, Loftur – 23
lived in Berlin for her studies and came back here 3 weeks ago. studying sportbiology in Reykjavik to
work as a coach and ski guide or teacher
SCHOOL AND HOLIDAYS
The school year begins at the end of August and ends at the end works for the local municipality during
of May. Social life at school is more developed than in France, as the summer organizing work for
Bryn Jahuld says. The school organizes parties for the students, young people.
for exemple.

They have almost 3 months of holidays. Most of young people

work during their holidays. You can see them in the bakery, the
bookshop, petrol station, restaurants, campsites...
GUDNI – 17
They also like travelling. „My friends and I went to Rome, Milan, student working for the
Brussels, Munich, Barcelona, Andorra, London, etc.” explains city municipality during holidays.
Loftur. As they all speak English very well („ We are only 300 000
Icelanders, we need to speak other languages”), they can easily
go all around the world!
INDEPENDENCE At weekends, it is something else. Im-
Compared with French, Italian or Span- portant notice for interested people : If
ish youth, Icelanders are much more inde- you are under 20, you cannot buy alcohol
pendent. Most of them pay for their own or cigarettes (but once you are 18, you
studies and generally they move out of can vote). Like everywhere in the world,
the family home at 20, if not before. young people find a way around this, and
here an older friend buys the „goods” for
ISOLATED? the others.
Not as much as you’d expect. Even in this
remote region, their Internet connec- One strange tradition, which is very com-
tions are fast and you can get cell phone mon, is the Rundtur: you take your car and
reception everywhere. Everybody is on your friends and you make tours around
facebook and they watch English and the town. It is always the same tour and
American TV programmes... So, even if they make it several times. But they seem
they are far from a lot of things, they are to like it very much.
not so isolated!
The typical plan, once you are over 20, is
FREE TIME to drink together at home, and at 1 a.m,
go to the bar until it closes which is usu-
During the week, evenings seem to be ally around 4am. Of course, you have to
quiet. Music and sport are the most com- go to a good bar. There are two for young
mon hobbies. Swimming is the national people in Isafjordur. The coolest now is
pasttime and they enjoy soaking in the the Langi Mongi which opened only a few
hot tubs with their friends. Football is the months ago because some people didn’t
most practiced sport in the country but like the former one any more. The Wag-
there are others .Hukon plays handball, nerninn, Flatteyr’s drinking hole, is be-
Daniel basketball and Loftur loves skiing. coming „the place to be”, with regular
On the other hand, people also enjoy the concerts and DJs that pull in people from
arts. Linda plays a lot of piano and Bryn surrounding areas, including Isafjordur.
Johuld loves literature. We tried an 80s party and it was great fun!
About drinking: „Icelandic young people drink a lot. We can drink one bottle There are so many people that everybody minds his own business and talks
of Vodka in one night” tells Bryk Jahuld. A bottle of vodka here, even the lo- only to his friends”. Although we cannot really comment on behalf of people
cal stuff, costs approximately 40 euros, so a night out for them is expensive. living in Reykjavik, as visitor and volunteer staying in the WestFjords for two
weeks, we can assure you that it is true that people in this area are very talk-
Reykjavik... Big city! ative and welcoming.
Most young people from this region have move to Reykjavik to go to univer-
sity (there is one university in Isafjordur but it only has e-learning). They are incredibly friendly, interested in us and our work and more than
happy to answer all of our questions!
Surprisingly for us, they don’t really dream about going to the capital. „I
have been living here all my life and it is just a village with only 300 inhabit-
ants. I have to go to Reykjavik to learn but it is such a big city, I am a bit wor-
ried” said Linda. Loftur, who already lives there, agrees: ‘Reykjavik is a really
stressfull city! I would be happy coming back here later”.

Kristo, from Reykjavik, explains a little bit more about the diferences be-
tween Reykjavik and West Fjords: „People are less shy here. Everybody talks
to everybody. When I arrived, everybody came at me to ask who I am, where
I come from, why I am here. In Reykjavik, it is not like that.
icelandic haiku
A Viking searches

This terrifying landscape

Carved from ice and rock.

Fishermen prosper The Hidden People

Hauling in their sea-harvest Ease suffering in lonely fjords

Waves crash; slow motion
Cold and wet and proud. A quiet magic.
Oblivious of bloodshed

Against ancient cliffs.

Death dark winters Untamed, defiant

Villages sometimes buried in snow The wilderness blooms in spring

Snow clouds gather
Time passes. And fears melt away.
A farmer collects his sheep

The blueberries are sweet.

My Song I am one of the hidden people
A little shadow with a beating heart.
Riding beside you like a wild horse
I placed stepping stones across the chilly streams
And once on a walk, when it was warm and still,
A fraction of light in solid darkness, born. You slept with your head in my lap.
Nestling in the cold contours of volcanic rock
Pushed forward by loneliness I am one of the hidden people
I saw your fingers first through a fissure Just a shadow with a beating heart.
Plump and pink
Like your face Do you remember snow was falling
lit up by the sinking sun. When you packed your rucksack
Absentmindedly you watched the fog And left?
Tip toe stealthily down the mountains The longing in your eyes
Settle on the glassy fjord. As the darkness spun around you
I should have known you’d leave.
I am one of the hidden people I watched as your bus slid so easily
A little shadow with a beating heart. Into the long long tunnel.

Fingers trailing through summer grass I am one of the hidden people

Face smeared with sweet blueberry juice Now alone with my beating heart.
I followed you that summer
 MADE BY

* Jonas Boni * Carlos Largo * Alejandro Tagarro

* Julie Bouniton * Marine Ledoyen * Romy Volkmann

* Francesco Di Massa * Sara Moreau Dignard * Elena Zanuccoli

* Nicola Gibberd * Emi Navarro Lacarra * Monica Butnaru

* Licia Gueye * Stefanie Nsom * Hana Raskova

* Ana Gutierrez Diaz * Elisabet Rens * Dita Vinovska

* Hyun Kim * Giuseppe Ricchi * Linda Matejovska

* Nerea Labado Mora * Rosella Rigamonti