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edu/ec1304

EC 1304—Revised March 2008 u $1.50

Growing Blueberries
in Your Home Garden
B.C. Strik

Growing highbush or cultivated blueberries

can be very rewarding. You can eat the berries
fresh, make them into pies and other desserts, or
freeze, dry, or can them for later use.
In Oregon, the blueberry fruiting season
extends from late June through September,
depending on the type of blueberry and culti‑
var. The fruit on each cultivar ripens over a 2‑ to
5‑week period.
The most common type of blueberry grown in
Oregon is the northern highbush blueberry. Other
types of blueberries include southern highbush,
rabbiteye, lowbush, and half-high.
Highbush blueberries are perennial, long‑lived
(40 to 50 years), deciduous shrubs with a mature
height of 5 to 9 feet. Attractive as ornamentals,
they progress from a profusion of white or pink
blossoms in spring to colorful foliage (fall) and Soils
wood (winter). You can grow plants in beds, rows, Blueberries have very specific soil require‑
hedges, or individually. Dwarf and semi-dwarf ments. Plants grow best in well-drained, light,
cultivars (varieties) are available for growing in sandy loam soils that are high in organic matter
containers. and have a pH between 4.5 and 5.5.
Avoid planting on heavy soils that drain
Selecting a site slowly. Water standing on the soil surface for more
Blueberries require a sunny location for full than 2 days during the growing season can damage
production. Avoid areas surrounded by trees. Trees roots. The soil water table should be at least
can provide too much shade, compete with plants 14 inches below the soil surface, or roots will
for water and nutrients, encourage birds, and inter‑ suffocate.
fere with air movement around the plants. Poor air If your garden has only coarse, sandy or grav‑
circulation favors the development of diseases. elly soils, pay careful attention to watering and
fertilizing.
You can modify many soils that are initially
unsuitable to make them suitable for blueberry
production (see “Preparing the soil”).

Bernadine C. Strik, Extension berry crops professor,

Oregon State University
Archival copy. For current version, see: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/ec1304

Selecting a cultivar
It’s a good idea to plant more than one culti‑
var. Although most northern highbush blueberry
cultivars are self‑fertile, cross‑pollination produces
larger berries. Also, if you plant two or more cul‑
tivars that ripen at different times, you’ll lengthen
the harvest season. To ensure adequate cross pol‑
lination, plant more than one cultivar within each
type of blueberry you select (northern highbush,
southern highbush, and rabbiteye). Within each
type, cultivars have sufficient overlap in the bloom
period for adequate cross pollination.
Northern highbush cultivars grown in home
gardens in Oregon include (in order of ripening):
‘Duke’, ‘Earliblue’, ‘Spartan’, ‘Patriot’, ‘Blue‑ Figure 1. Yellow foliage caused by high-pH soil.
crop’, ‘Jersey’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Legacy’, ‘Chandler’,
and ‘Elliott’. See EC 1308, Blueberry Cultivars for
Oregon, for descriptions of these and other blue‑ For most soils, the pH must be lowered (made
berry cultivars. more acidic). Test soil pH a year before planting
because acidification, if necessary, takes more than
Preparing the soil 6 months. (For more information about soil test‑
Blueberries require an acid soil, relatively high ing, see Laboratories Serving Oregon: Soil, Water,
organic matter content, and good drainage. If your Plant Tissue, and Feed Analysis, EM 8677, and
soil is not naturally suitable for blueberry plant Soil Sampling for Home Gardens and Small Acre-
growth, you’ll need to modify it before planting. ages, EC 628.)
Blueberry plants are long-lived, so considerable If the pH is between 5.7 and 6.5, acidify the
time and expense in preparing the soil can be soil by adding finely ground elemental sulfur (S) to
justified. the soil before planting. The amount of S needed
If you plan on growing several plants, it’s depends on how much the soil pH needs to be low‑
better to group them in a bed or row than to scat‑ ered and the soil type.
ter them around your garden. You’ll obtain better • To lower the pH from 6.5 to 5.4 in a clay loam
results if you prepare an entire bed, rather than soil, apply 3.5 to 4.5 lb S/100 sq ft.
digging holes for individual plants and preparing • To lower the pH from 6.1 to 5.4 in a clay loam
soil to fill the holes. Be sure to eliminate all peren‑ soil, apply 2 to 2.75 lb S/100 sq ft.
nial weeds before planting. • Heavier soils may require more S for a similar
amount of acidification.
Soil pH adjustment
It’s best to use the lower rate initially, check
An acid soil with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5 is
soil pH again in 6 months to a year, and apply
considered ideal for highbush blueberries. Poor
more S only if necessary. Do not apply more than
blueberry plant growth resulting from soil pH that
7 lb S per 100 sq ft at one time.
is too high is the most common problem when
If the pH is between 5.5 and 5.7, mix in Doug‑
growing blueberries in the home garden. In this
las-fir sawdust and ammonium sulfate fertilizer
situation, plants often have yellow leaves with
before planting. These materials will acidify the
green veins (Figure 1). These symptoms are most
soil. (See “Incorporating organic matter,” page 3.)
likely on younger leaves.

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If the pH of an organic soil is higher than 6.5, Establishing your planting

it’s usually not practical to acidify it enough for
growing blueberries. Planting
In some cases, soil pH is too low for blueberry Plant healthy 2‑year-old plants in October or
production. If the pH of your soil is below 4.0, from March through April. Purchase container-
incorporate finely ground dolomitic limestone at a grown plants from a reputable nursery. Space
rate of about 5 to 10 lb/100 sq ft. plants 4 to 5 feet apart in the row. Spacing between
Incorporating organic matter the rows can be 8 to 10 feet.
Before planting, incorporate organic matter, Set plants no more than ¾ inch deeper than
such as Douglas-fir sawdust or bark, to improve they were growing in the nursery row or container.
soil aeration and drainage. Yard debris compost Planting too deep can smother plants.
may be used, but it often has a high pH (above 7.0, Firm the soil well to remove air pockets. Do
compared to pH 4.0 to 4.5 of Douglas-fir sawdust) not fertilize plants when you plant them. Water
and can be high in salts. thoroughly after planting, but don’t over water.
Spread sawdust over the row to a width Prune all branches back by about 30 to 40 percent
of about 3 feet and a depth of 3.5 inches. To by removing older wood and keeping nice new
aid in decomposition of the sawdust, add 2 lb whips (new growth at base of plant); this encour‑
nitrogen/100 feet of row length (10 lb ammonium ages vigorous new growth.
sulfate, 21-0-0). Incorporate the sawdust and fertil‑ Remove blossoms
izer with a rototiller. Prune off flower buds at planting (Figure 2).
Improving drainage Do not allow plants to produce fruit the first
Although blueberries require readily avail‑ season. Be patient! It’s important that plants grow
able moisture, they will not tolerate poor drainage. well the first year, and flower and fruit production
Ideal soils are well drained with a water table 14 to hinders growth.
22 inches below the surface. You often can make Figure 2. Fruit
poorly drained soils suitable for blueberries by til‑ buds are “fat”
ing and/or planting on raised beds. buds on the tip of
A raised bed 12 to 18 inches high and 3 feet last year’s growth;
vegetative or
wide usually is sufficient to provide adequate shoot buds are
drainage and aeration. Raised beds can be con‑ barely visible on
structed with wood walls, but walls are not the lower portion
necessary if you can form a raised bed (using natu‑ of the shoot.
ral soil and incorporated sawdust) by hilling.
Growing blueberries in containers
You also can grow blueberries in containers.
Northern highbush blueberries require a large con‑
tainer such as a wine barrel. Half-high types can be
planted in a 10-gallon or larger container. A good
planting mix consists of about 80 percent fir bark,
10 percent peat moss, and 10 percent perlite.

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Young plants require little pruning for the first However, if soil or plant-tissue analysis shows a
2 or 3 years compared to mature plants, but it is deficiency of either P or K, apply a more complete
important to limit fruit production the first 2 years. fertilizer. Use mixtures that contain potassium sul‑
You will have to remove weak portions of the fate rather than potassium chloride; blueberries are
plant and limit the number of fruit buds to ensure very sensitive to chloride. Also, make sure the N is
that plants grow well. in the form of ammonium, not nitrate; blueberries
do not take up nitrate N.
Weed control
Keep at least a 4-foot area around the plants Watering
free of weeds during the growing season. Blue‑ Blueberries have a shallow, fibrous root sys‑
berry roots grow mostly near the soil surface. tem, so they’re susceptible to drought injury. A
Thus, to prevent root damage, cultivation must be uniform and adequate supply of water is essential
very shallow and not too close to the plant. for optimum growth. On average, young plants
need about 1 inch of water per week. If this
Mulching
amount isn’t supplied by natural soil water or rain‑
Blueberries grow better when mulched. Mulch‑ fall, you must irrigate. Check the soil frequently
ing keeps the soil cool, conserves moisture, adds for adequate moisture and irrigate if necessary.
organic matter to the soil, improves soil structure,
and aids in weed control.
After planting, apply a mulch of Douglas-
Checklist for establishing a blueberry
fir sawdust or bark to a depth of 2 to 3 inches.
planting and taking care of plants
Increase the depth of the mulch to 6 inches over
the first year
a period of years. You can mulch the entire soil
surface (you’ll no longer have to cultivate), or you • Select a good site.
can place a 3- to 4-foot-wide band of mulch in the • Eliminate all perennial weeds before you plant
row. and before they go to seed.
You may have to apply 25 percent more nitro‑ • Test the soil pH a year before planting.
gen fertilizer on mulched plantings compared to • Prepare the soil the year before planting:
unmulched plantings, depending on how fresh the
— Incorporate organic matter.
sawdust is. Fresh sawdust “ties up” nitrogen while
it decomposes, so you need to add more for the — Modify soil pH if necessary.
plants. — If the site drains poorly, use tile drains
and/or build raised beds.
Fertilizing
• Choose cultivars—planting two or more leads
In late April of the planting year, apply 0.2 oz to larger fruit and a longer harvest period.
of nitrogen (N) per plant (equivalent to 1 oz of • Plant in the fall or spring.
ammonium sulfate fertilizer, 21-0-0, or 0.4 oz
• Apply 2 to 3 inches of sawdust or other mulch.
urea, 46-0-0). Add the same amount of N fertilizer
in early June and in late July. Sprinkle the fertilizer • Prune all branches back by 30 to 40 percent.
evenly within 12 to 18 inches of each plant, but • Apply fertilizer in late April after planting.
not directly on the crown or stems. • Keep the planting weed‑free.
Ammonium sulfate and urea fertilizers contain • Irrigate as needed.
no phosphorus (P) or potassium (K). In gen‑
eral, home garden soils have sufficient P and K.

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Archival copy. For current version, see: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/ec1304

Care of established plants

Adding mulch
Add mulch as required to maintain a depth
of about 6 inches once plants are mature. In row
plantings, widen the mulched area to at least 4 feet
as plants become larger. As a rule, sawdust mulch
decomposes at the rate of about 1 inch per year.
Fertilizing
In the second year, apply 0.25 oz of N per plant
(1.2 oz of 21-0-0 or 0.55 oz 46-0-0) in April, May,
and June. The total amount of N applied per plant
will be 0.75 oz. Spread fertilizer evenly around
the plant, over an area approximately equal to the
spread of the bush. Try not to apply fertilizer to the
base of the canes.
In year 3, increase the total fertilizer N applied
to 0.8 oz. Divide the total into three equal portions
and apply one-third each in April (around bloom
time), May, and June.
In year 4, increase to 1 oz per plant. As the
Elliott.
planting ages, slowly increase the total N applied
to a maximum of 2.5 oz N per plant (12 oz of Spread the S evenly under the bushes. Water or
21-0-0) in mulched plantings. Continue to split lightly rake it into the soil or mulch. Measure the
the total into three applications in April, May, and soil pH a year later and add more S if necessary.
June. In general, you should not fertilize after Ammonium sulfate fertilizers used over a
July 1. period of years will gradually lower soil pH.
Your visual assessment of plant growth and
fruiting can help you know how much to fertilize. Watering
If the plants are growing well (10 to 12 inches of Blueberries need a uniform and adequate
new lateral growth each year and new vigorous water supply from blossom time to the end of
growth from the base of the bush), leaves look harvest. Moisture demand is greatest from fruit
green, and yield is good, there’s no need to worry set to harvest (time of greatest fruit growth). Fruit
about whether plants are getting enough nutrients. bud formation for next year’s crop begins from
This assumes, however, that you’ve pruned plants late July to early August so adequate water is also
well. Added nitrogen fertilizer will not compensate needed at this time.
for poor growth due to insufficient pruning. Plants need from 1.5 to 3 inches of water a
Check the soil pH every year or two, especially week. Irrigate to supplement rainfall as needed.
if growth is poor. If the pH is above 6, you can Irrigate frequently enough to prevent the soil from
apply elemental sulfur to the surface of the soil becoming too dry. However, avoid over-watering
or mulch to slowly acidify the soil and improve the plants, or roots may be killed due to lack of
blueberry growth. Apply no more than 5.5 lb S per oxygen.
100 feet of row (3 oz/plant). Higher rates will burn Overhead watering promotes disease. Drip or
or kill blueberry plants. another form of under-canopy irrigation is ideal.

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Archival copy. For current version, see: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/ec1304

Pruning an equal number of 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-year-old

After the third year, you need to prune blue‑ canes. If you remove the oldest, unproductive
berry plants every winter. The best time to prune is canes, and thin to a few of the best shoots at
January to early March, when plants are dormant. the base (called “whips”), you will be renew‑
The main objectives of pruning are to promote ing the bush each year.
the growth of strong, new wood and to maintain The following step-by-step system will make
good fruit production. If you prune too little, plants pruning easier.
produce too many small berries and shoot growth 1. Cut out any wood that’s dead, damaged, or
is weak. Plants have weak, twiggy growth at the diseased.
end of the season and fail to develop strong new 2. Remove whips smaller than pencil size in
wood for future production. Severe pruning pro‑ diameter, but leave larger whips to develop
duces fewer, larger berries and more new wood. into good fruiting wood next year.
If you prune bushes correctly, you’ll have a
3. Cut out one or two old, unproductive canes
good balance between fruit production and growth
(large stems arising near the base of the
of vigorous new shoots. Experience is the best
plant). Fourth‑year or older wood with small,
guide on how hard to prune.
weak growth (short laterals or 1-year-wood)
A video guide to pruning blueberry plants
is unproductive. Cut these canes back to the
is available from the Oregon State University
ground or to a strong new whip growing near
Extension Service (A ­Grower’s Guide to Pruning
the base.
Highbush Blueberries, DVD 002).
Blueberries produce fruit on 1-year-old wood 4. Remove excess whips (or “suckers”) and weak,
(last year’s growth). Fruit buds are visible during twiggy wood, especially from the top of the
the dormant season. They are the fat buds at the tip plant, to allow light to reach the center.
of last year’s growth. The small, scale-like buds 5. Plants may overbear. This often results in very
toward the base of the 1-year-old wood are vegeta‑ little new growth of wood and small, late‑­
tive buds; they will produce a shoot with leaves maturing berries. If this is a problem, remove
next season (see Figure 2). some of the weakest (thin and short) 1-year‑old
The best berries are produced on 1-year-old wood. If necessary, also tip back some of the
wood that is from 8 to 12 inches long. Short remaining long 1‑year‑old wood by cutting off
1-year-old wood (less than 5 inches long) pro‑ about one-third of the flower buds.
duces a lot of buds, but fruit quality and vegetative
growth are poor. We call this type of wood
“twiggy.” Checklist for taking care
When pruning, keep in mind the following of mature plants
principles.
• Add mulch gradually over the years to
• Keep the bush fairly open. Open bushes pro‑ maintain a depth of 6 inches.
mote better air circulation (less disease) and
• Apply fertilizer in the spring, starting
good light penetration to improve fruit bud set
around bloom time.
for next year’s crop.
• Water to maintain a uniform and adequate
• Mature bushes should have 6 to 12 canes at moisture supply.
their base, depending on cultivar or growth
• Pick fruit at optimum maturity.
habit. After pruning, there generally should be
• Prune in January or February.

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Archival copy. For current version, see: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/ec1304

Some cultivars do not produce many whips The most effective method of bird control is
from the base of the plant. Instead they produce light plastic netting. You can place nets directly on
whips from the base of older canes between the plants, but this makes harvesting fruit difficult,
ground level to knee height. When you prune these and birds can feed on some of the outside fruit by
bushes, you will have fewer canes at the base of pecking through the netting. As an alternative, you
the plant, but more new growth or renewal wood can construct a small wooden or PVC frame over
higher up on the bush. Follow the same principles individual plants or groups of plants to support the
described above. netting.
In general, insects and diseases are not a big
Harvesting problem for blueberries. The following diseases
Each blueberry cultivar ripens berries over might occur:
a 2‑ to 5‑week period. A well-managed, mature • Botrytis (gray mold that kills blossoms)
northern highbush plant will produce from 13 to • Pseudomonas (bacterial blight that causes
18 lb fruit. Berries occur in clusters of 5 to 10. 1-year-old wood to die back in winter)
Don’t be too anxious to pick the berries when
• Mummy berry, Anthracnose, and Alternaria
they first turn blue—they are not yet fully ripe.
fruit rots
They’ll develop better flavor, become sweeter, and
grow about 20 percent larger if you leave them for Insect pests include root weevils and scale. If
a few days after they completely turn blue. Pick insects or disease become a problem, check with
about once a week or more often in hot weather. your local office of the OSU Extension Service for
Gently roll berries between your thumb and control recommendations.
forefinger, removing fully ripe berries and leaving
unripe berries for the next picking. You can collect
For more information
berries in an open container attached to a belt or cord Blueberry Cultivars for Oregon, B.C. Strik and
at waist level. This frees both hands for picking. C. Finn, EC 1308.
You can keep fruit for a week or more in the Pruning Highbush Blueberries (video), B.C. Strik,
refrigerator. DVD 002.
Many OSU Extension Service publications
Pests may be viewed or downloaded from the Web.
Many species of birds feed on blueberry fruit; Visit the online Publications and Videos catalog at
they can harvest 100 percent of the berries if you http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/catalog
don’t control them. Scare tactics such as aluminum Copies of our publications and videos also are
plates and strips of foil flapping in the wind have available from OSU Extension and Experiment
limited effectiveness; birds become used to these Station Communications. For prices and ordering
devices. information, visit our online catalog or contact
us by fax (541-737-0817), e-mail (puborders@
oregonstate.edu), or phone (541-737-2513).

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© 2008 Oregon State University

Trade‑name cultivars are listed as illustrations only. The OSU Extension Service does not endorse any listed cultivar or intend any discrimination against others
not listed.

This publication was produced and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Extension work is a cooperative program of
Oregon State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Oregon counties. Oregon State University Extension Service offers educational programs,
activities, and materials without discrimination based on age, color, disability, gender identity or expression, marital status, national origin, race, religion, sex,
sexual orientation, or veteran’s status. Oregon State University Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer.

Published July 1989. Revised March 2008.