Butchering, Processing and Preservation of Meat
Butchering, Processing and Preservation of Meat
Butchering, Processing and Preservation of Meat
l
This handbook is a complete step-by-step guide to _the butchering, proc-
essing, and preserving of meat for the farm, home, or commune.
Whether your fresh meat comes from your own farm, suburban prop-
erty, backyard, or a wholesale market; whether it was shot or trapped in the
wild or fished from a pond or the ocean-you will find on these pages the
answers you need to beat the cost of inflated food prices and still provide
meat of superior quality and flavor.
L . . - -_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _j
--Butchering, Processing
and Preservation of Meat
......................................
CATTLE · HOGS • SHEEP • GAME • POULTRY · FISH
"
Frank G. Ashbrook
. __
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FRANK G. ASMBROOK
Fish and Wildlife Service
United States Department oj the Interior
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This book is written primarily for the family to help solve the
meat problem and to augment the food supply. Producing and
preserving meats for family meals are sound practices for farm
families and some city folks as well-they make possible a wider
variety of meats, which can be of the best quality, at less cost.
Meat is an essential part of the American diet. It is also an ex-
pensive food. With the costs high, many persons cannot afford to
buy the better cuts; others are being forced to restrict the meat
portion of the diet to a minimum, or to use ineffectual substitutes.
Commercially in the United States, meat means the flesh of cattle,
hogs, and sheep, except where used with a qualifying word such as
reindeer meat, crab meat, whale meat, and so on. Meat in this book
is used in a broader sense, although not quite so general as to com-
prise anything and everything eaten for nourishment either by man
or beast. To be sure, it includes the flesh of domestic animals and
large and small game animals as well; also poultry, domestic fowl
raised for their meat and eggs, and game birds, all wild upland
birds, shore birds, and waterfowl; and fish.
Born in Pennsylvania, the author was reared in an atmosphere
where custom dictated the utilization of plainer foods in the con-
cocting of tasty dishes. In his grandmother's family, a German cook,
with knowledge of old-world ways and customs, brought into the
household a happy solution to many of the food problems which
confront us even today.
The author's first introduction to some phases of the home proc-
essing of meats came when, as a very small boy, his grandfather put
him to chopping and grinding meat, fat, and suet, and mixing these
with other ingredients in making sausage, headcheese, scrapple
(ponhaws in Pennsylvania Dutch), and other meat concoctions.
Later, at the Pennsylvania State College as an animal husbandry
student, he was taught by Professor W. H. Tomhave the scientific
methods involved in dressing and curing meats.
v
VI I PREFACE
After college, the author conducted research in swine production
for the Federal Department of Agriculture at Beltsville, Maryland,
and supervised the construction of an abattoir in which experi-
mental hogs ran the gamut of slaughter, dressing, cooling, cutting,
curing, and smoking. From this background and experience, the
author expanded his research avocationally into the gastronomic
art, to which he has been an ardent devotee throughout the years.
You who read this book may fall into one of the following cate-
gories: a livestock farmer specializing in cattle, hogs or sheep; a
poultryman raising chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese, or guineas; a
general farmer, keeping some livestock or poultry as a side line or
for home consumption; a city or suburban dweller with a pen of
chickens, pigeons, or rabbits in the back yard or lot; a person with a
half interest in a pIg, a lamb, or a calf that someone else is feeding
until time for slaughter, and after dressing, a portion of the carcass
is yours; a hunter who each season kills a deer, antelope, elk, moose,
bear, or ducks, geese and upland game birds; a fisherman who fre-
quently catches his limit; or you may be one of the more fortunate
recipients from your generous friends who have an overabundance
of good luck in the wild, and pass on to you a portion of their catch
or kill.
Teachers and students in agriculLural colleges, high schools, and
vocational schools engaged in animal husbandry and home-
economics studies will find the material in this book most helpful
in their clas~room and in their project work. All phases of the
preparation of meat and meat products for home use, including
slaughtering and dressing fresh and seasoned meat, cutting the car-
cass, refrigeration, curing, smoking, and canning, and the home
tanning of hides and pelts are discussed in this book.
Carefully selected sources for those who desire more information
than this book contains are given in the Appendix. This includes
a list of publications issued by the United States Departments of
Agriculture and the Interior, the State Game Departments, and
reference books. Along with these, it seemed advisable to include
a list of books that give methods and recipes for cooking all the
meats discussed in this book. In addition, there is a directory of
state agriculture experiment stations. Don't hesitate to ask your
county agent for information and guidance.
A review was made of all recent scientific and practical literature
in this field published in the United States, because the author be-
lieves it is not only desirable but essential that a book on practical
meat economies be something more than a mere collection of ideas.
PREFACE vii
The author is especially grateful to the Agricultural Research
Service, Agric,Ultural Marketing Service, Federal Extension Service,
and Forest Service, United States Department of Agriculture; to the
Fish and Wildlife Service, United States Department of the Interior
for material based on investigation and for permission to use photo-
graphs and drawings; also to the technical workers in the two fed-
eral departments for data and statistics obtained from research; to
the Smithsonian Institution, Texas A. and M. College, Iowa State
College, University of Missouri, and Pennsylvania State University
for photog'taphs and suggestions; to the Morton Salt Company and
the National Livestock and Meat Board for material, including
photographs and charts of wholesale and retail cuts of meat.
Sincere thanks are due to M. o. Cullen and Reba Staggs, National
Livestock and Meat Board for charts, illustrations and data; to Pro-
fessor J. H. Vondell, University of Massachusetts for photographs
of cutting up a chicken, and to Dr. Jessop B. Low, Utah State Col-
lege for illustrations of dressing wild ducks.
The preparation of this book has been a joint undertaking with
Caroline McKinley Ashbrook who has contributed many construc-
tive ideas and given valuable help and advice. Special acknowledg-
ment is due Mary Ryan for suggestions of treatment, arrangement
of material and splendid editing.
To all others who have lent material, called attention to special
features, or aided with personal criticism or advice in the prepara-
tion of this book, the author desires to express appreciation and
thanks.
FRANK G. ASHBROOK
Washington, D. C.
November, 1954
-- ---,--
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS
Old and New Techniques Combined Solve Meat
Problem 6
Facts about Meat 7
Changes after Slaughter 9
Fresh and Seasoned Meat 10
II MEAT CHARACTERISTICS 15
Structure of Meat 15
Composition of Meat 16
Meat as Food 18
Food Nutrients 18
Modern Meat Consumption 32
Game on the Table 35
Domestic Rabbit 38
Poultry 39
Fish 41
III FOOD PLANNING 44
A Ready-Made Food Plan 44
How to Figure the Family's Needs 45
Food and Economy 46
Daily Dietary Needs 47
Federal Meat Inspection 50
Federal Meat Grading and Stamping Service 51
Federal-State Grading and Inspection of Poultry 55
IV PRESLAUGHTER CONSIDERATIONS 57
Preparations for Butchering 58
Equipment and Tools 58
Primary Considerations 64
Skinning or Flaying 67
ix '"
•
x
CHAPTER
\ CONTENTS
PAGE
Examining the Carcass 71
Regulations for Shipping Meat or Meat Food Products 72
V BUTCHERING HOGS 73
Selection of Hogs for Slaughter 73
Sticking 73
Scalding 76
Scraping 78
Removing and Cleaning the Head 80
Removing the Entrails 81
Handling and Care of Edible Organs 84
Cleaning the Intestines 86
Chilling 87
VI BUTCHERING CATTLE 91
Stunning 91
Bleeding 91
Skinning and Removing Head 95
Skinning the Carcass 97
Opening the Abdominal Cavity 97
Hoisting 99
Splitting the Carcass 99
Chilling 103
Removing Tongue and Brains and Stripping Fat
from Offal 103
Cleaning the Tripe 104
Slaughtering Calves 104
CONTENTS xi
CHAPTER PAGE
Removing the Tongue and Brains 120
Saving the Head 120
Small Game i': 122
7, : WI'l" ilji.~~
FIG. 2. The buffalo furnished the American Indian, trapper, trader, and traveler
the finest meat on the continent.
The de'pouille, a fatty tissue lying along the backbone just under
the hide and extending from shoulder blade to the last rib, was cut
and pulled out all in one piece. It was then dipped in hot fat for
a short time and hung up inside the tepee. Here this choice morsel
would dry and be smoked for a day or two. Cured in this manner,
MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS 5
it kept indefinitely and was used principally as a substitute for
bread.
The flesh of the buffalo or bison, in good condition, is juicy and
well flavored, and resembles that of beef. The tongue, in pioneer
days, was deemed a delicacy, either roasted, boiled fresh, or cured
and smoked. Smoked buffalo tongue was considered to surpass in
flavor and texture that of the cow or steer. The hump of flesh cover-
ing the long spinal processes of the first dorsal vertebrae was also
much esteemed. Fine-grained, mellow, and when partly salt-cured
and sliced crosswise, it was considered as rich, tender, and luscious
as tongue. Hump ribs and other choice cuts were roasted in the
deep ashes of a fire, as were the marrow bones. These portions of
the buffalo were most relished by the trappers, traders, pioneers,
and travelers who came later.
The Indians also laid up large winter stores of buffalo meat. To
acquire this meat, they staged large community hunts. Before win-
ter, in this manner, they would store as much as 5,000 pounds of
dried buffalo meat in certain localities.
Pemmican was made from buffalo, deer, and antelope. The raw
meat was cut into thin slices, wound about sticks which were slanted
over a slow fire or laid upon a rick of wickerwood, and allowed to
dry. Often the sun alone would furnish sufficient heat to dry the
meat. These dried slices of meat were then pounded into a flaky
mass, and over alternating layers of it, fat was poured. This mass
was then packed in bags made of buffalo or deer hide; thus making
a compact and nutritious food which could be kept indefinitely.
Pemmican was quite acceptable to the taste and became the stand-
ard food of the trappers and mountain men when on the trail.
The white men who early invaded the Great Plains quickly
adopted the hunting and eating customs of the Indians. Those who
crossed the plains lived exceptionally well on unlimited quantities
of choice cuts of buffalo and antelope. These hungry mountaineers
relished the appetizing brown intestines, ribs of the tender hump,
and baked tongues, so soft, sweet and well-flavored. When such a
quantity of primitive food was readily available, white men and
Indians knew very well the portions of the carcass they liked best.
From the earliest times, buffalo meat was the chief sustenance of
the pioneers as they journeyed westward. Later it was the staple
meat served in hotels and restaurants through the buffalo country.
After guns were acquired by the Indians, and the trappers and
traders organized systematic hunts, the buffalo herds were greatly
reduced. It was the beginning of a real exploitation, with a growing
MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS
trade in hides, robes, and pemmican. This was the threat that led
to the practical extermination of the wild buffalo in the United
States.
The tongue hunters were more wasteful than the hide hunters
because they simply killed for tongues alone, and the rest of the
carcass was left on the plains. The tongues were cured, smoked,
packed in barrels, and shipped to the large eastern cities. Occasion-
ally, some of the meat was pickled and sent to market; and, at times
during the winter, buffalo carcasses were also hog-dressed and
shipped east, but more often the hindquarters were the only portiun
utilized.
Today there are about 9,000 buffalo on Federal, State, and private
lands in territorial United States. The U. S. Fish and Wildlife
Service maintains four fenced refuges for buffalo and elk, where the
animals run at large and are maintained as nearly as possible under
natural conditions. An annual disposition of surplus animals is
made from these areas to avoid overgrazing. Both live and butch-
ered animals are generally available.
The Director of the Fish and Wildlife Service determines each
year, usually in August, the number of animals that are surplus on
each refuge and establishes the prices at which they will be sold.
The first settlers on the shores of America-the Dutch, British,
French, Spaniards, Germans, and others-brought with them from
the Old World their own eating customs. All these people have
contributed to the development of fine American food.
As trade opened up with the Orient and the West Indies, the
American table was enriched by the addition of pepper, curry, and
all sorts of spices, tropical fruits, chocolate, coffee, and rum. With
this oriental touch, and drawing upon European lore, an entirely
new school of cooking began to develop.
One might ask, what has all this to do with the meat situation
and how does it relate to our present problems? Many of the recipes
and methods for butchering and preserving meat developed during
the Colonial period have come down to us without much alteration,
some of them exactly as the Indians and colonists taught them to
our ancestors. Many of the formulas are as valid now as they were
in the good old days. We can benefit immeasurably, then, if we
combine modern techniques with the thrift and ingenuity of our
~; forefathers. It is the constant increase in the cost of living that
,;
FACTS ABOUT MEAT 7
forces us to adopt old-world economies which we have more or
less been neglecting. We are fortunate in having a unique grip on
the combination of the old usages with the new techniques. In
attempting to solve the meat problem, today's generation may find
in these new approaches a satisfactory and practical solution-a new
frontier not only for American farm and suburban families but
for city families as well.
It matters not whether your fresh meat comes from a farm, a
suburban property, a vacant lot, a back yard, or a wholesale meat
market; nor if it is shot or trapped in the wild or fished from a
farm pond, brook, lake, river, or ocean-somewhere in this book is
a solution to your meat problem.
Perhaps you prefer not to kill, dress, and cut up an animal, a
bird, or even a fish. Do not let any of these processes between the
kill and the range frustrate you. They can be met by your local
butcher or those employed at the local cold-storage locker plant,
who will be glad to render this service.
Freezing meat, poultry, fish, and game in the home freezer or
locker plant is the latest thing in food preservation. With modern
methods of freezing, any day of the year a family can have a luscious
steak, fried chicken, baked fish, broiled rabbit, or barbecued game.
Cold-storage lockers and deep freezers have a great appeal, because
they furnish storage space for fresh foods the entire year. It is the
easiest way and requires the minimum of time and energy. Whether
the meat is produced by you or purchased wholesale alive or
dressed, there is a considerable saving. You can save money and live
better by purchasing meat in quantity and preserving it. It is not
an uncommon procedure these days for people LO purchase cattle,
hogs, sheep, poultry, and fish at wholesale when the price is right,
and dress and butcher them at home, or have the locker plant or the
local butcher do the work.
Freezing is a practical, desirable way to preserve meat, poultry,
and fish, but it is not the only method. There are others, such as
brine and dry curing, corning, pickling, drying, smoking, and can-
ning. All are good, add variety, and make the meals most delectable
with that country-cured taste.
2 i at makes the meal. It is the dish that gets star billing at the
ta e. Nearly everyone thinks there is nothing else like the prized
savoriness of meat. It stimulates the appetite and makes the whole
8 MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS
meal seem more interesting and full of flavor. Formerly meat was
regarded by many as the cause of most of the ills to which we are
heir. Now it is considered a must in our diet instead of a necessary
evil.
One of the chief reasons that the meat supply does not meet hu-
man demands is that man has concentrated his appetite on fewer
and fewer animals for meat. It is surprising to note that away back
in the Middle Ages meat was more varied and occupied a more
important position in the cuisine.
Swans, peacocks, peahens, and many other species of birds and
animals, such as deer, pheasants, and quail, were kept in domestica-
tion or semidomestication. Rabbits, woodchucks, raccoons, and
opossums offer possibilities for much more exploitation as dinner
meats.
Meat is good for you. It should comprise a basic part of the daily
diet of every healthy person. It provides energy, health, and vigor.
While meat is used as the main dish in meals day after day, it never
becomes monotonous. This is because there are numerous varieties
of meats and so many interesting and appetizing ways in which they
may be prepared and served. Meat surely has appetite appeal and
it satisfies.
FIG. 3. Meat should comprise a basic part of the daily diet of every healthy
person. Roast fresh or cured pork shoulder, with savory stuffing, can supply
'f this essential part of the daily diet, cheaper and every bit as tasty as ham .
•• ',I
CHANGES AFTER SLAUGHTER 9
Meat is important primarily for high-quality protein. It also pro-
vides iron, copper phosphorus, fat, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, and
vitamin A. Lean meat is primarily protein. The lean and fat tissues
are highly digestible and are easily and rapidly assimilated. Meat
proteins have a high digestibility, and the amino acids contained in
it are biologically complete. Therefore, it is natural that meat plays
an important part in keeping the human body in order.
The value of any food is directly dependent upon the thorough-
ness with which its nutrients are utilized by the body. Beef, veal,
lamb, and pork are all digested quite thoroughly since 97 per cent
of the proteins and 96 per cent of the fats are digested. Pork, how-
ever, takes a little longer to digest, as does turkey. There is no
difference, however, in the digestibility of red and white meat and
fowl. After all, the chief reason for the popularity of meat is its
palatability, which consists of tenderness and flavor or aroma and
tas~~~
CHANGES AFTER SLAUGHTER
After slaughter the animal heat leaves the carcass; this is hastened
by chilling. Refrigeration also causes the fat and muscle to become
solid and hard. Consequently, meats become rather firm in the
cooler. When meat is in refrigeration, other changes take place.
The meat firms up and remains so for some little time. Fresh
meat is usually tough and tasteless. After 24 to 36 hours of chilling,
however, the meat becomes progressively more tender. Then the
enzymes gradually soften the tissues, making them more tender.
Remember that bacteria are found in foods not sterilized, and
this is also true of meat. These will begin to grow and act on the
meat. They consist of molds, yeasts, ordinary types of bacteria, and
spore-forming spoilage bacteria. Oxygen in the air and enzymes in
the meat affect the fat and thus tend to make it rancid. When meat
is kept in the cooler for weeks, some rancid fat may be found on
the surface of the meat. The bacterial growth mentioned previously
and the effect of oxygen in the air on fat are changes of an undesir-
able nature. Therefore, precautions to prevent these changes must
be taken to keep meats fresh and to prevent spoilage.
All meats are highly perishable. The primary cause of low or
inferior quality, off flavor, taint, or actual spoilage is due to allow-
ing the natural forms of bacteria to develop and multiply. There-
fore, bacteria from within and outside of the meat must be pre-
vented from multiplying and held in check until the meat is cured,
smoked, or otherwise preserved.
10 MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS
The pinK or red color of meat is produced by muscle and blood
hemoglobin. This is an important criteria in judging meat. Beef
and some other red meats are always darker when first cut. Upon
exposure to the air for a short time, however, the hemoglobin be-
comes oxidized, thereby producing a brighter shade of red.
Generally speaking, the older the animal, the darker the meat;
but frequently dark meat occurs in fairly young animals after the
carcass is cut up. The bone, then, is the determining factor, for it
is red and porous in young animals, whereas in old ones it is hard,
white, and flinty. Therefore, dark meat may occur regardless of
age; although it is a characteristic of the flesh of older animals or of
meat that has been cut for some time. Meat that has been aged or
seasoned for a month or more becomes very dark, also moldy or
slimy on the surface. This can be removed by cutting off thin slices
and the newly cut surface will be bright red again.
FIG. 4. A typical meat cooler. Good quality beef and mutton will chill and
season in 7 to 10 days in a cooler 35° to 45° F. Highly finished beef can be
ripened for 6 weeks. Venison and other game may be kept to advantage for
2 weeks or more.
Good quality beef and mutton having a firm texture and a coating
of fat on the outside will chill and season in 7 to 10 days in a cooler
set at 35° to 45° F. Highly finished beef can be ripened for 6 weeks.
Venison and other game may be kept to advantage for 2 weeks
or more.
Any family wishing to solve the meat problem has a choice of
several alternatives for storing fresh meat. For example, use may
be made of one of the million or so lockers located in more than
11,000 frozen locker plants, where, for a nominal fee, meat can be
dressed, wrapped, frozen, and stored until the family is ready to
use it. The home freezer is also useful in preserving a large variety
of meats. The meat can be sharp frozen at the locker plant in the
12 MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS
usual way or in the deep freeze, then stored in the home freezer
until it is to be cured or cooked. If the family does not have access
to either of these modern conveniences, the only course is to hang
the meat in a cool outbuilding, trusting to luck that it will be in
good condition when the time arrives for eating or curing.
Mr. Cullen says:
In this primitive method of ripening, birds and small game usually
present no problem' because they can if necessary be eaten quickly without
sacrificing too much in the way of flavor. It is the big game, such as deer,
elk and moose, that are most troublesome, since like beef this class of
meats improves with aging. The English usually hang the large carcass at
least 14 days; however, their climate is somewhat more steadily cool than
ours. Here 10 days of hanging is about the general practice, and certainly
nothing less than a week will accomplish very much toward making the
meat more tender. The animal's age will have some relation to the length
of the ripening period, and if the carcass is that of an old buck it is best
to give it some extra time if possible.
Needless to repeat, the place where the carcass hangs should be as cool
and dryas possible, and it is advisable to leave the skin on as added pro·
tection during the aging period. Later, after the skin has been removed
and the backbone split, it is a wise precaution to strip out the spinal
cord, which runs along the backbone.
Birds present no complications in the matter of size and space, but
they do require a watchful eye, and the delicate decision as between the
moment of full aroma and risking another night's hanging has caused
countless hunters many an uneasy hour. They usually reach their "high"
moment just as they begin to decompose and with their full quota of per·
fumes achieved. Timing to this split second of greatest succulence must
be done without benefit of rulers or meters and sometimes the least wrong
calculation may result in sacrificing the bird.
Since birds are always hung in their feathers these serve as a great pro·
tection against flies. But it is advisable as an added precaution to apply a
good sprinkling of pepper, which can be counted on to keep the pests
away. In cold, frosty weather, birds may hang 10 days safely without much
fear of becoming tainted. If the weather should be damp and muggy, it
is well to provide a larder or storehouse with a good current of air and cut
the hanging period when necessary. An old country prescription suggests
covering the birds loosely with a thin cloth. In some households the cus·
tom is to hang birds by their heads only; in others, strings are tied to
both ends and the hanging position is changed every day, alternating
from head to feet.
Partridge taints first in the crop; other birds start to decompose around
the vent. In either case, as soon as there is the first sign of taint, remove
the feathers and draw the birds. Wash them in water that is well salted
and add a little vinegar to the rinse. If they are badly tainted, repeat with
FRESH AND SEASONED MEAT 13
two or three different solution changes, and finally wash off with clear,
fresh water. Dry them thoroughly and place a little piece of charcoal or
some powdered charcoal in a muslin square inside the crop before cook-
ing. They may be cooked with the sweetener in them but remember to
remove it before serving. If there is no charcoal at hand, place some
charred wood in the oven until it is burnt through and use this the same
as you would the charcoal.
I
14 MAN'S EATING CUSTOMS
-~-
··11· I.
I
MEAT CHARACTERISTICS
blood veS6el
connective
mu.scle
FIG. 6. Cross section of a ham showing where the four classes of tissues are found.
c
Bones also contain water, fat, protein, and mineral matter, but
the four chemical substances are more nearly equal in the bones.
Fresh bones of beef cattle may contain 30 to 40 per cent water, the
fat may run from 15 to 20 per cent, and the protein content may
also be 15 to 20 per cent. The remainder is mineral matter and
forms from 15 to 25 per cent of the total.
The skin of meat animals also is composed of water, protein, fat,
and mineral matter. The water content of the skin of young veal
may be as high as 70 per cent, while that of old cattle may be as low
as 50 to 55 per cent. Fat is present in small amounts, usually 5 to 6
per cent or less. The protein content is usually 30 to 40 per cent,
and the ash from 1 to 1.5 per cent. <.~
18 MEAT CHARACTERISTICS
MEAT AS FOOD
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FOOD NUTRIENTS 29
MEAT·; PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION PER CAPITA
SPECIFIED COUNTRIES
CONSUMPTION PER
PRODUCTION PER CAPITA IN POUNDS CAPITA IN POUNDS
300 500 600 100
NEW
ZEALAND
URUGUAY
DENMARK
AUSTRALIA
ARGENTINA
UNITED
STATES
CANADA
IRELAND
FRANCE
~ AI( 1946-50
jiiiiiiii /952
NETHERLANDS
SWEDEN
BELGIUM
SWITZERLAND
UNITED
KINGDOM
MEXICO
0
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31
32 MEAT CHARACTERISTICS
MEAT!
PER CAPITA CONSUMPTION, BY TYPES, IN SPECIFIED COUNTRIES IN 1952,
WITH COMPARISON
Union of South
Africa ... , •..•.•••• 56 7' 15 78 52 77 15 74
1 Carcass meat-excludes edible offal, lard, rabbit, and poultry meat. • Pre-
liminary. "Total includes canned meat. • Total inCludes goat, horse, and canned
meat. • Total includes goat and horse meat. 6 Excludes farm production and
consumption. 7 Includes goat meat. 6 Year ended September 30.
Foreign Agricultural Service. Prepared or estimated from official statistics
of foreign governments, reports of United States Foreign Service officers, and
other information,-August 1953.
Game is the term applied to animals and birds which live free
in the fields, woods, and mountains in a state of nature and are good
to eat. Game is one of the delicacies of the dinner table; it is health-
ful, savory, tasty, and easily digested. The share of food contributed
by game to the average table is at present relatively small, and it is
surprising how few persons in this country have ever eaten game.
Most American families, in fact, have never even tasted it.
If game meats were used more commonly and a taste for venison
and wildfowl cultivated, there could be more variety in the diet with
practically no increase in cost.
The flesh of game, when young, is generally tender, contains less
fat than poultry, is of a fine, though strong flavor, and is easy of diges-
tion. Game meat is usually of dark color, ruffed grouse and quail
being exceptions, and is usually cooked rare.
Climatic conditions, food, and cover all bear a definite relation
to the quality and taste of game meat. Many small game species
survive and thrive in densely populated farm areas.
Farms on which the crop rotation includes wheat, corn, buck-
wheat, lespedeza, soybeans, and similar seed-producers are especially
attractive to upland game birds and rabbits. In addition, rabbits
are fond of almost any green vegetation, especially that grown in
vegetable gardens.
Age affects the flavor and texture of the meat from wild animals.
It is impossible to state the age at which an animal will be best
36 MEAT CHARACTERISTICS
for meat, but everyone knows that meat from old animals is tougher
than that from young ones. The flesh of very young animals, how-
ever, frequently lacks flavor and is watery. An old animal, if fat
and healthy, is better than a young one in poor condition.
Venison has the same chemical composition as beef but is not
nearly so fat as meat from well-fed cattle. A lean venison roast be-
fore cooking contains, on the average, 75 per cent water, 20 per cent
protein, and 2 per cent fat; a lean beef rump, 65 to 70 per cent
water, 20 to 23 per cent protein, and 5 to 14 per cent fat; and a lean
leg of mutton, 67 per cent water, 19 per cent protein, and 13 per
cent fat. Venison, like beef and other common meats, is thoroughly
digestible, whatever the method of cooking.
Nutrition Tests. In experiments conducted at the technological
laboratory of the United States Fish and Wildlife Service at College
Park, Md., proximate analyses and vitamin assays were made on the
comparative nutritive value of muskrat meat and beef.
The two meats are quite similar in composition except that the
muskrat meat contained less than half as much fat as the bee£. The
muskrat meat contained .16 milligram of thiamine and .21 milligram
of riboflavin per 100 grams, as compared with values reported for
beef of .11 milligram of thiamine and .20 milligram of riboflavin per
100 grams. The proximate analyses and vitamin values, of course,
vary somewhat from sample to sample.
Feeding tests to determine the comparative nutritive value of
these two meats showed that muskrat meat had an apparent digesti-
bility of 93.4 per cent and that of beef 95.9 per cent. Both meats
were easily digested.
Proximate analyses and vitamin assays were made on cooked sam-
ples of domestic rabbit, raccoon, opossum, muskrat and beaver
meats. The ~~sults are shown in the following tables:
GAME ON THE TABLE 37
PROXIMATE ANALYSES OF COOKED SAMPLES OF
GAME ANIMALS
Min-
Mois- Pro- eral
Meat tested ture tein Fat matter
% % % %
Beaver:
Boiled ............. 56.2 29.2 13.7 0.9
Roasted ........... 64.2 30.0 5.1 1.2
67.1 29.7 3.8 1.5
Muskrat, roasted ..... { 66.4 26.7 5.3 1.4
70.2 25.2 3.3 1.2
Oppossum, roasted .... 58.3 30.2 10.2 2.3
57.2 24.9 13.8 1.4
Rabbit, roasted .......
{ 60.8
60.2
32.4
33.6
6.2
5.4
1.3
1.5
Raccoon, roasted ..... 54.3 29.2 14.5 1.5
FIG. 8. Fried or broiled domestic rabbit is delicious any time and can be
served throughout the year.
DOMESTIC RABBIT
POULTRY
The term poultry in its general sense includes all domestic birds
bred and raised for human food. It implies turkeys, geese, ducks,
guinea fowl, and pigeons, just as well as chickens.
The meat of well-fattened chickens of young or medium age has
about the same nutritive value as beef, but it is considered easier
to digest and therefore suitable for invalids and convalescents.
Squabs, the young of pigeons, were recognized as delicious and
nourishing food hundreds of years before Christ. They supply
choice, tender meat for home consumption. They sometimes sub-
stitute for game birds. The flesh of a squab contains a larger pro-
portion of soluble protein and a smaller proportion of connective
tissue than pigeon flesh; it is a good source of liquid protoplasm
and vitamin G and is relatively rich in phosphorus.. Squab meat
has a fine texture and a distinctive, delicious flavor, is tender, and
easily digested. A squab is desirable for an individual serving.
Today the precedent of the traditional turkey at Thanksgiving,
Christmas, and other special occasions has given way to serving this
choice bird at all times of the year, and it is becoming less and less
40 MEAT CHARACTERISTICS
expensive. Meatier turKeyS are being developed so that a small (9
to 12 Ib_) turkey will serve a family of five generously at two meals.
Any day in any year may now be turkey day.
FIG. 9. Any day in the year can be turkey day. They are sold live, dressed, or
ready-to-cook, in various sizes and parts.
Duck and goose differ considerably from both turkey and chicken
in shape, in proportion of dark and light meat, and in fat content.
Raising ducks and geese has been practiced in Europe for centuries.
It began in the United States with the arrival of the early settlers.
The increase in human population and the development of cities
created a demand for duck and goose meat, especially on the part
of the foreign-born population, and therefore duck and goose pro-
duction has expanded considerably from its early beginning. The
dark meat of ducks and geese provides the consumers with a change
from the white meat of chicken and turkeys. Ducks and geese, be-
cause they are quite fat, are efficient self-basters, and no extra basting
is necessary during roasting. Both goose and duck fat are desirable
for pan-frying or sauteing all kinds of food_
Guineas, like game fowl that have been a rarity of the past, are
becoming more popular and the demand is increasing due to present
meat prices. The distinct dark color and wild flavor of this small,
compact bird is being appreciated more. The breast of the guinea
hen is still a great delicacy. It is the meatiest part of the bird and,
since the hen has the plumpest breast, the guinea hen is most prized
for cooking.
Guinea fowl, are also used as a substitute for game birds such as
grouse, partridge, and pheasant. Many hotels and restaurants in the
FISH 41
large cities serve prime young guineas at banquets and club dinners
as a special delicacy. When well-cooked, guineas are attractive in
appearance, although darker than chicken, turkey, or squab. Young
guinea is tender and of especially fine flavor resembling that of wild
game birds. Like other old fowl, old guineas are likely to be tough
and rather dry.
Finally there are the giblets, edible viscera of both domestic and
wildfowl-livers, hearts, gizzards-which give rise to a number of
preparations. Before it was possible to buy cut-up chicken these
various parts of poultry, considered valuable in foreign countries,
were generally discarded or used chopped in gravies. The head of
a chicken is in Europe left on the bird when it is cooked, as the
brain is accounted a tidbit; blanched cocks' combs and wattles are
rated by French cooks as a delicacy worthy of preparation as a sepa-
rate dish, and especially desirable for garnishing; and the feet
skinned and dressed are used for broths.
Cooked giblets may be chopped, heated in gravy, baked in dress-
ing, and folded into omelets. They are high in nutritive value.
Giblets cooked together with necks, backs, and wing tips make an
appetizing soup or stew. Livers sauteed in butter or bacon fat, with
or without onions or mushrooms, served on toast are excellent.
FISH
It",. ..
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.( . . . . I!iII'IIIItII"*~~.
FIG. 10. Fish are rich in nutritive value since they are excellent sources of very
digestible proteins.
FOOD PLANNING
FIG. 11. Ground beef broiled on toast, with or without onion rings, is a favorite
with the youngsters and the oldsters as well.
In using the food plan, figure weekly amounts of the food groups
that will fit your family. The figures in the columns preceding
pounds or quarts are arranged to show food quantities according to
age, sex, and how active the individual is. Where a range is given:
For children, the first quantity is for the youngest age. For adults,
the first quantity is for the less active. The most active adults do
really heavy work or take strenuous exercise. For pregnant and
46 \ FOOD PLANNING
nursing women, the first quantity is for pregnant women and the
second for nursing women.
No figures are given for children under one year because they are
often breast fed or have formulas or other food prepared especially
for them.
Guided by these ranges, you can estimate the quantity needed
for each person in the family. Use judgment in doing this. If a
child is having a spurt of growing, he may need the amount of food
usually suggested for children a year or two older.
FIG. 12. Pot roast of beef-chuck, rump or round-with potatoes, onions and
carrots, is a thrifty and savory dish.
As you add up the amount of each kind of food your family mem-
bers need in a week, write the figure in the column provided in the
food plan sheet. This is your guide, to use as it stands or to com-
pare with amounts you have been using.
Quantities in the food plan can be purchased for about the same
money that the average family in this country spends for food. This
DAILY DIETARY NEEDS 47
assumes that you will choose moderate-priced foods, or mix some
cheaper foods with more expensive ones. On the other hand, if you
want to reduce food costs and still eat well and in some instances
much better, then preserve some food. You can save money by pur-
chasing meat, vegetables, and fruits in quantity and preserving them
at home. Freezing is the easiest method and requires the minimum
of time and energy. Other methods, principally for fruits and
vegetables, are canning and preserving, and for meats, marinating,
corning, brine and dry curing, and smoking. Remember that meat,
poultry, fish, eggs, milk, and cheese contain the top-rating proteins
and some of these protein foods are needed each day; it is an ad-
vantage to include some in each meal.
FIG. 13. Mixed grill-lamb chop, sausage cake, liver, broiled tomatoes and
parsley potatoes-makes a sumptuous meal.
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50 FOOD PLANNING
ANGRAU
Q Centrel Library
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FEDERAL MEAT GRADING AND STAMPING SERVICE 53
Description of the grades. Beef of each grade will provide a satis-
factory dish if the meat is appropriately cooked. The degree of
quality to associate with each of the grades is briefly discussed III
the paragraphs that follow:
:;
--"
As the name implies, beef of this grade is
highly acceptable and palatable. Prime grade
beef is produced from young and well-fed beef-
type cattle. The youth of the animal and the
careful intensive feeding which it has had, com-
bine to produce very high quality cuts of beef.
Such cuts have liberal quantities of fat inter-
spersed within the lean (marbling). These char-
acteristics contribute greatly to the juiciness,
tenderness, and flavor of the meat. Rib roasts
and loin steaks of this grade are consistently
tender and cuts from the round and chuck
should also be highly satisfactory.
" -----:_
Government standards have been developed chiefly for the grad-
ing and standardization of beef sold at retail. The grade stamp
found on all the main cuts takes much of the gambling out of buy-
ing beef. It is different from the round purple stamp used in Fed-
eral meat inspection work. The round stamp shows that the meat
has been inspected and passed for food. The grading work takes
place later. It is an optional service to aid in the merchandizing
of meats under exact and true grade names, thus enabling the house-
wife, when she wants a "Good" grade roast or steak to be sure of
obtaining that quality.
i 'cl.fj)::)"" , : ,~TrKA" Ll J;;'<:):,:;,{ -V
GRADING AND INSPECTION OF PO{JLTRY SO· ~'. 55
<...-; __ ~-..:r~.1'."'lI'
56 FOOD PLANNING
(1) Grading of Dressed Poultry. Under this program, Federal
or Federal-State graders do the grading. Only carcasses of A quality
or B quality may be individually identified by a Federal grade mark,
illustrated below. The containers of such poultry may also be
identified with a grade mark. If dressed poultry is of C quality,
only the bulk containers may be so identified, even though the
grading may have been performed on an individual bird basis.
, '" ~i:.:
~\
[PRESLAUGHTER
CONSIDERA TION~
FIG. 14. Equipment for use in slaughtering and dressing hogs: Gambrel (single-
tree), hook, smooth steel, skinning knife, boning knife, saw, bell-shaped hog
scrapers, and thermometer.
the weight easily. Hooks, gambrel sticks, or a single tree will suffice
for hogs and sheep, and a neck yolk makes a satisfactory tree for
hanging light beef carcasses, whereas for heavy cattle a double tree
should be used. A pair of ordinary clevises should be used to fasten
the tendons in the case of a beef carcass to prevent it from slipping
off the trei}
In the case of hogs, a water-heating arrangement with scalding
vat and a substantial table are basic requirements; however, a hog
60 PRESLA UGRTEll CONSIDERATIONS
FIG. 16. Homemade beef hoist. A simple method of hoisting a beef carcass is
illustrated in these sketches. A fork or rake handle or gas pipe is slipped
through incisions between tendon and shank bone; ropes are sllspended from
tree limb or other suppOrt (wide apart at top) to height of hocks below. To
free ends of rope are tied short sticks, as 2·foot pieces of broom handle or
equally strong material. These are placed inside the shanks and are used as
levers for winding up ropes around fork or rake handle, as shown. Two men
wind up the rope around pipe or handle. When beef is at right height, another
pipe or handle is laid across between ropes and ends of sticks to prevent lin·
winding. As the beef is raised the legs are spread farther and farther, as desired.
,.!
EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 63
have extra thinness on the cutting edge of the blade, a sandstone
can be used. The stone shou!d be water-cooled when in use so as to
prevent heating the steel blade. The idea in grinding is to develop
a bevel of about one-fourth of an inch from the edge on both sides
of the knife to be used in sticking and skinning. The stone should
be run at a right angle against the edge or with the edge of the blade.
Care should be taken not to cut or scar the blade further back than
the required bevel. After grinding, the knife should be honed.
Honing. Special whetstones made for this operation are obtain-
able. Either water or oil, as the case may be, is used to develop the
proper abrasive surface. Perhaps you have seen such a stone used
by the barber to hone a razor or by the shoemaker to sharpen his
leather-cutting knives. Such a stone is generally set in a heavy
wooden base to keep it stationary. To hone a knife, grasp the han-
dle in the right hand. Place the heel of the knife blade on the left
end of the stone. Tilt the blade up high enough so that the bevel
lies flat on the stone. Place the fingers of the left hand on the blade
near the back edge and put pressure on the entire blade. Draw the
knife with a sweeping motion to the right, completely across and
inward against the cutting edge of the blade. Then turn the knife
over in the palm of the hand by a twist of the thumb and an index
finger and draw the blade across the stone in the opposite direction.
Always draw the knife across the stone against the edge of the blade
to prevent forming a wire edge. To put the edge in perfect condi-
tion and complete the sharpening process, the knife must be steeled.
Steeling. There are steels of various kinds adapted for definite
use. The mirror steel is the one best adapted for butchering, as it
puts a razor-sharp edge on the blade. One 10 or 12 inches long is
quite satisfactory. In his book, How to Caroe Meat, Game and
Poultry, M. O. Cullen, meat carving expert of the National Live-
stock and Meat Board, stat§ ...."
Steeling requires definite techniqJ, for anything but the right way will
produce the exact reverse of the end desired, which is to straighten the
edge of the blade.
The detailed instructions for steeling, difficult to describe in words,
are much simpler to follow if the directions are acted out with the imple-
ments in the hand.
Hold the steel, thumb over the handle, firmly in the left hand and on
a level with the elbow. The steel should be pointed slightly away from
the body and upward at about a 45-degree angle. The carving knife is
held in the right hand, almost at a perpendicular. In the next steps the
knife actually comes in contact with the steel, and the angle at which this
takes place is the important thing to watch. The angle should be some-
where between 25 and 35 degrees. No one, of course, expects you to re-
64 PRESLAUGHTER CONSIDERATIONS
view the basic principles of geometry in order to measure out the angle to
the nth degree. A fair approximation of the tilt of the knife will ordinarily
serve the purpose of laying the blade against the steel so that the edge
can be straightened rather than rounded. This is the tapering process
which takes place when a blade is trued up.
Then, once having established the angle, place the heel of the blade
at the tip end of the steel, and on the side farthest from the body. Bring
the knife downward the whole length of the steel, so that at the end of
this stroke the point of the knife is at the hilt of the steel. Now lift the
knife up again to the original starting position, alternate to the other side
of the steel and repeat the motion, remembering each time to take in the
full length of the blade. Most people find this way of alternating surfaces
(nearer and farther) on the steel the surest and easiest one for maintaining
the blade at its correct and steady angle while in motion.
Once you have mastered the knack of steeling, the trick is to draw the
knife along lightly but steadily, with very little pressure, keeping the wrist
relaxed (like the bow arm of the violinist), the steel stationary and the
eye on the alert to hold the angle. However complicated all this may sound
(it takes a good many words to describe the simplest of steps involving one
completed movement), I hasten to reassure you that it is a fundamentally
easy and elementary physical action. True, a novice, translating words into
deeds, might in the very beginning get worked up into knots and go at it
too tensely, but after a little effort the arms relax and the free swing up
and back becomes as automatic as shifting the gears on your car.
The beginner might well return to his boyhood days long enough to
whittle himself a wooden knife, corresponding in size and shape to the
knife. With this harmless imitation, he can practice the arm and wrist
movement in the steeling action without too much concern for the per-
fectly good hand holding the steel.
PRIMARY CONSIDERATIONS
I
tant, because they indicate the sizes and weights of the different cuts
and the total amount of meat that will be produced.
The late O. G. Hankins, formerly in charge of meat research for
the United States Department of Agriculture, states:
Highly important in the selection of animals for butchering is their de-
gree of fatness. Thin, underfinished animals do not make good eating.
Moderately well fattened cattle, hogs, and sheep yield the most generally
acceptable products. Some consumers prefer highly finished meat, usually
because they believe a relatively large percentage of intramuscular fat adds
to the eating quality of the lean meat. The meat of highly finished ani-
66 PRESLA UGHTER CONSIDERATIONS
mals is "wasty," however, and in hogs might mean too much lard. A 250-
pound hog yields about 60 percent (10 to 15 pounds) more lard than a
200-pound hog-an example of how weight and finish affect the production
of lard.
FIG. 20. A good sausage grinder, with stulfer spout and different
size plates, makes it easy to put up sausage. Size of plates pic-
tured here %-, ¥!i-, %6-' and lis-inch holes.
Meat preservation begins with the live animal because the quality
of the finished meat depends a lot on how the animals were handled
when slaughtered, bled, dressed, and chilled. Actual souring has
been brought about by improper butchering. The prevention of
meat spoilage and also the foundation of quality meat begins with
the handling of the live animal. For this reason. the wise thing to
do is to carry out properly every step in butchering and processing
the meat.
Preslaughter feeding and management call for first consideration.
Animals that are to be butchered should be confined in small indi-
vidual pens for two or three days before they are slaughtered, and
for 24 hours prior to killing they should not be given food but
should have plenty of fresh water. Meat animals should never be
slaughtered when they are overheated, excited, or fatigued, but
should be perfectly quiet and rested. Striking with a stick or whip
will cause bruises or bloody spots on the dressed carcass that must
be trimmed out.
!C • • •
',J.
SKINNING OR FLAYING 67
Meat animals should be dispatched quietly and quickly. Bleeding
must start promptly and proceed freely and rapidly. Time and
temperature are important factors in the preservation Qf meat. Mr.
Hankins emphasizes that there should be no delay in carrying out
all subsequent steps, such as scalding and scraping hogs, removing
hides of cattle, pelts of sheep, eviscerating, and splitting cattle and
hog carcasses. Cleanliness at all stages of the operation is impera-
tive.
The meat experts of the Department of Agriculture tell us that
fresh meat is an excellent medium for the growth and development
of bacteria. Therefore, dressed carcasses have to be chilled promptly.
Cool them at an internal temperature of 35°F. or lower within 24
hours or less.
Meat animals for home use should be slaughtered when weather
conditions are favorable for rapid cooling of the carcasses. About
24 hours are necessary for proper chilling, and a good rule to follow
in warmer sections is to kill in the afternoon, and then the cool
night is just ahead for starting the chill.
SKINNING OR FLAYING
\,
FIG.21. Top and bottom show the proper ripping-open cuts for
a correct pattern. The dotted lines show the path of the knife,
and the solid lines show the appearance of the hide when
spread out. .'. ::f-;·
r·-
SKINNING OR FLAYING 69
by the packers, is also due partly to several factors less difficult to
control than those just mentioned. Among them is the general
inferiority of country hides and skins, due to indifferent and im-
proper methods of handling. Much improvement is possible along
these lines. It rests entirely with the one who handles the hides and
skins, whether he be farmer, country butcher, or suburbanite.
There are three important operations in the handling of hides
and skins: take-off or skinning; salting and curing; and marketing.
Unless these operations are performed properly and efficiently, bear-
ing constantly in mind that the hide or skin, as well as the meat, is
an article of value, the loss to anyone with only an occasional hide
or skin to market, will be appreciable. The improvement in quality
and the better returns will more than offset the little extra time and
effort required for carefully following correct methods.
Always clean the animal before killing it. Remove the dirt and
manure carefully so that the hide is not scratched or scarred. Care-
less cleaning, particularly in the case of calves and other young
animals, often causes serious damage to the skin. The old-fashioned
curry comb or other instruments with sharp teeth are not satisfac·
tory. A fiber brush and water are most satisfactory.
Avoid causing damage to the hide or skin while handling the
animal. In stunning or knocking it down, be sure it does not fall
on stones or rocks that will bruise the hide. In subsequent handling
do not drag the carcass around so as to rub the hair off the skin.
FIG. 22. Hide of good pattern and FIG. 23. Hide of poor pattern and
trim. trim.
""f,.,:
70 PRESLA UGHTER CONSIDERA TIONS
Keep the skinning knife sharp; use it carefully but no more than
necessary. Avoid cutting the hide or skin but not at the expense of
the meat. Leave the flesh on the animal; besides a loss of food, its
presence on the hide or skin is very objectionable-it lowers the
quality of the hide. Skinning is done best and most easily before
the animal heat has escaped.
The techniques of skinning are difficult to describe so that they
may be followed easily. In fact, expertness in flaying, especially of
hides, can be acquired only by practice. It requires patience and
skill, and care must be exercised until the skill is obtained. Written
directions cannot be as clear and effective as actual observations and
trials. Before killing an animal one can learn much by visiting a
small or large slaughter house and observing the methods employed.
Although proper skinning, without scores or cuts, requires prac-
tice, a proper pattern requires only a sharp knife and straight rip-
ping-open cuts along the correct lines. All the ripping-open cuts
for skinning a beef are clearly shown by dotted lines on page 68.
The outlines show the resulting correct pattern or appearance of the
hide when spread out flat. The contrasting points in pattern and
~~~
tail and in the butt, which is the most
r 1;.""
knife work will prevent these defects.
"~.''''''~
~,
++
trim are shown on page 69. The irregular edges and the shape of
the hides, the split shanks and tail, and the dewclaws shown in the
hide of poor pattern and trim are absent in the hide of good pat-
tern. The dotted lines marking the hide of poor pattern show how
much must be trimmed off before tanning. This is all waste and
reduces the area or size of the hide.
Detailed instructions for killing and skinning the various species
of meat animals are given in the following chapters.
EXAMINING THE CARCASS 71
EXAMINING THE CARCASS
FIG.25. A calf skin of good pattern and FIG. 26. A calf skin of poor pattern and
trim. The dotted lines indicate the trim. The dotted lines show the exces-
amount cut off before tanning. sive amount of trimming necessary be-
cause of the poor pattern. The head
and practically all of each shank must
be cut off.
72 PRESLA UGHTER CONSIDERATIONS
abnormal color of the meat is usually due to some generalized con-
dition. All generalized conditions are to be viewed seriously. Any
such case should be submitted to a graduate veterinarian for exami-
nation and opinion as to the fitness of the meat for food.
Farmers who ship their meats must comply with official State and
Federal regulations. Below is shown a sample shipper's certificate
such as must be used in interstate shipments of uninspected meat or
meat food products which are from animals slaughtered by the
farmer on the farm. Blank certificates should follow this sample.
In size the certificate should be 5Y2 by 8 inches.
Shipper'S Certificate
Date_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _, 19__ .
Name of carrier _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
Shipper_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___
Point of shipmenL-_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___
Consignee____________________________
Destination____________________________
(Signature of shipper)
(Address of shipper)
Two copies of this form are to be presented to the common carrier with
each shipment.
fr. I •.•
.~(
or· t,¥ .i~ ~.
v
5 BUTCHERING HOGS_]
[JIigh quality meat, with a full finish and rich flavor, is produced
by medium-weight hogs, and these should be the only ones butchered
for home use. Thrifty, properly fattened hogs from 8 to 10 months
old and weighing from 180 to 250 pounds are the best ones for home
butchering. Hogs of this size are more easily handled, and the meat
chills more quicklyj They produce moderate-sized cuts and usually
a desirable portion of fat and lean. Medium-weight cuts will also
cure quicker and more uniformly than heavier cuts. Medium-weight
hams, shoulders, and bacon are finer in texture and flavor and are
of better quality than those from older, heavier hogs. Heavier hogs
will produce more lard.
s-).. CSTICKING 1
[T'he care of lln animal just before it is slaughtered, previously
~, has much to do with getting a good "stick."
Sticking is the best method of killing. It is practical, efficient, and
humane. It is best not to stun or shoot a hog before sticking.
If the animal is stuck without being stunned, the blood will drain
out more completely than if it is stunned first. If a block and tackle
with hoisting arrangement is available and fastened securely 10 or
more feet above the ground, loop a chain around one hind leg and
73
I <.
74 BUTCHERING HOGS
AVERAGE PERCENT AGES
(Of Certain Parts of Hog Carcasses Classified According to Live Weight
of Animal)
Data for hogs weighing-
Less than 130 to 160 to 200 to 250 lb.
Hogs, carcasses, and parts 130 lb. 1591b. 1991b. 2491b. or more
- - - ----- - -
Hogs ..................... number. 26 41 199 240 92
A verage live weight at
slaughter ................ pounds. 106 146 183 218 289
A verage weight of chilled
carcass.. .. . ............... do ... 78.0 116.0 146.0 177.5 238.5
HamS' ................... per cent 1. 19.9 18.4 18.4 17.5 17.0
Loins ........................ do ... 13.2 12.2 12.1 11.6 11.0
Bacons ....................... do ... 9.4 10.1 10.8 11.4 11.9
~\ Shoulder (3'rib, full cut) ....... do ... 18.5 17.7 17.4 17.0 16.7
Head ........................ do ... 10.7 9.8 9.4 8.9 8.5
Cutting fat 2 • • • • • • • . • • • • • • • • • • do ... 10.9 15.0 16.8 19.5 21.5
1Percentages of parts based on weight of chilled carcass.
2Consisting of back fat, leaf fat, and fat trimmings.
SOURCE: AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH SERVICE, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
draw the hog backward through the gate of the pen and up for
swinging. Care should be taken to loop th6 chain between the hock
and the hoof so as not to bruise the ham shank. This is the easiest
way, for both man and hog, to restrain the animal for sticking with-
out stunnin&J.5'l..
1£ a gadget for hoisting the hog is not available, then roll the hog
on its back and stick on the ground. To get the hog in proper posi-
tion for sticking on the ground, reach under the animal and grasp
its opposite front leg, then roll it upon its back and hold it firmly
by the front feet. The man holding the hog stands astride of it,
i facing forward, with his feet and knees pressed against the shoulders
of the animal to prevent it from rolling.
" '"' ,'
STICKING 75
Jt.
r-
"
FIG. 27. Sticking the hog on the ground. The feet and legs of the man holding
the hog are pressed against the shoulders of the animal to prevent it rolling.
FIG. 29. Scalding the hog in a barrel. Keeping it in motion lessens the danger
of setting the hair, and works the water into the wrinkles of the skin.
78 BUTCHERING HOGS
Lime, wood ashes, and rosin put into the water make the hair
cling to the scraper and pull out more easily. Remember, however,
that the temperature of the water when scalding a hog is more im-
portant than any substance that can be put into it.
Twenty-five to thirty gallons of water is ordinarily enough to
scald a hog in a 50-gallon barrel. Light-weight or medium-weight
hogs can be practically immersed in the barrel.
The barrel should be set at about a 45° angle at one end of the
scraping table; or, if a hoist is available, the barrel may be set up-
right under the hoist to save lifting. It is good practice to scald the
head first while the hind legs are dry. Two men are required to
handle this job satisfactorily. Each grips a hind leg and the hog is
immersed in the hot water. It should be kept moving in the water
to be sure no part rests against the side of the barrel. Occasionally
the lmg should be drawn part way out of the water to air when the
hair may be "tried." When the hair and scurf slip from the surface,
scalding is complete. Then pull the hog out of the barrel, place the
hook in the lower jaw, and scald the hindquarters. At this time, a
third man, if available, can remove most of the hair from the hot
forelegs, flanks, ears, and head even though the animal is kept in
motion. This should be done immediately, as these parts cool
quickly.
s-1- ~CRAPING 7
t)tt [When the hog is completely scalded, pull it out of the water and
turn it crosswise on the table. One man should grip the hind legs
with both hands and twist off the hair, then with the hook pull off
the dewclaws and toes while hot. With a bell scraper he should re-
move the hair and scurf from the hindquarters. Scraping strokes
made with the lay of the hair will remove it easier. Another should
scrape the hair from the forequarters, feet, and head. After some
experience, one will learn to stretch the skin by the leg or head so
as to smooth the wrinkles and make scraping easier. If patches of
hair have not been thoroughly scalded, it is often possible to loosen
them by covering them with sacks or hog hair and pouring hot water
on them. The removal of hair and dirt from the hot carcass should
be done as rapidly as possible, as there is a tendency for the skin to
"set" and render the removal of the hair difficult. As soon as the
hair is removed, pour hot water on the carcass and place the bell
scraper flat against the skin and work the scraper in a rotary fashion.
This will massage out much of the dirt and scurf from the skin. A
blowtorch and a wire brush will be useful in singeing and scrubbing
the head and feet. Next, rinse the hog completely with cold water
SCRAPING 79
FIG. 30. The hair and dirt are scraped off by tilting the bell scraper on its far
edge and pulling forward. Use both hands and plenty of pressure.
FIG. 31. The head is cleaned by scraping, singeing, and then scrubbing with a
wire brush.
~
.~. I
.'1
..... ;.
REMOVING THE ENTRAILS 81
Carefully trim all the meat off the lower jaw and discard the bone.
Remove the snout and the skin from the front of the face. Saw off
the face bones just back of the teeth. With the saw, cut the skull
lengthwise and remove the brain. This method of preparing the
head leaves no bone splinters. Now the head is cleaned and ready
for making headcheese and other pork delicacies] S r-
REMOVING THE ENTRAILS
FIG. 34. Scoring the belly. FIG. 35. Cutting through the breast-
bone.
hogs, the cut may be made a little to one side of the middle where
there is softer bone, or a saw may be used to cut the breastbone. In
making this cut care should be taken not to extend the incision up-
ward beyond the chest cavity. To do so will cut into the stomach or
cause the intestines and stomach to protrude and interfere with the
next operation. The blood that has accumulated in the chest cavity
will drain out when the breastbone is split, and you can tell whether
you did a good job of sticking by the amount of blood in the chest
cavity when the breast is opened.
If the hog was swung before sticking and the vein and artery
severed well in front of the heart, very little blood will be left in
the chest cavity to drain out. Getting a good bleed is very impor-
tant, as meat cannot be properly chilled and cured without being
properly bled.
\'
, /.
REMOVING THE ENTRAILS 83
FIG. 36. This method of opening the FIG. 37. Opening the bung.
carcass prevents cutting the intestine or
stomach.
Now, begin at the other end of the carcass and make a short inci-
sion in the abdominal wall near the top. Place the hand clasping
the knife handle inside the abdominal wall, with the blade pointing
out. Let the fist that grips the handle drop down until the knife
slants upward. The cutting is done with the heel of the blade and
the fist crowds the intestines away from the outer edge as the rip-
ping is continued downward. When the belly wall is cut through,
the intestines will fall downward, but the attached muscle fiber will
not let them fall far. This is the safest and quickest way to rip the
belly, and there is no danger of cutting the intestines or stomach.
Make a cut down between the hams, taking care to keep the knife
in the center. As the hams open, the white membrane which marks
the exact middle can be seen. Follow this if possible to the pelvic
84 BUTCHERING HOGS
bone. When the aitchbone is reached, the point of the knife is
placed against the center seam of the bone. By striking the butt of
the knife handle with the palm of the hand, the seam of the aitch-
bone is split quite easily. With older hogs, it may be necessary to
use a saw to split the aitchbone. While dividing this bone, care
should be taken to avoid puncturing the urinary bladder, which lies
just below. In dressing a barrow, loosen the penis and let it hang, .II.
to be removed later with the bung. ~
Stand facing the back of the carcass on a bench and dissect out
the bung (rectum). Grasp the bung gut just below the split in the
aitchbone and loosen upward toward the end of the bung. Then
begin in the front and cut completely around the bung end. Se-
curely tie the end with a cord and pull the bung out and down,
cutting around it where it does not pull loose.
When the bung gut is worked down toward the entrails, the entire
mass of entrails should be worked outward and downward, leaving
as much fat as possible along the backbone. The kidneys are left
in the leaf fat which surrounds them.
With the left hand, grasp the intestines firmly just below the kid-
neys at the point where they appear to be attached to the backbone.
Push down slowly but firmly until they loosen from the back. Free
the liver by running the fingers of the right hand behind it and
pulling it away from the back. Still holding the intestines in the left
hand, cut through the diaphragm to the backbone. Extend the cut
around the white fibrous portion of the diaphragm, which is parallel
to the ribs, to the breastbone and down the breastbone to the throat.
This last cut loosens the heart and lungs in the chest cavity. Still
holding the intestines with the left hand, repeat the cut on the left
side of the carcass, crossing the right hand over the left. It may some-
times be necessary to cut the back artery from the backbone, thus
permitting the left hand to pull the entire offal out of the carcass.
The gullet is still attached to the throat, but one cut of the knife
will free it. A tub should be handy to receive the mass of entrails
when they are freed from the carcass. The body cavity should be
washed and rinsed with cold water before the carcass is split.
t:
::> b [}IANDLING AND CARE OF EDIBLE ORGANS _]
[Bow work over the entrails in a tub or on a table. Cut off the
liver and remove the gall bladder. The small upper end of the gall
bladder can be lifted with the thumb and finger and the bladder
peeled out. The heart is cut off through the auricles or "ears." Next
..;,.t;/J.
, .
';'.
HANDLING AND CARE OF EDIBLE ORGANS 85
FIG. 38. In removing the intestines, FIG. 39. The warm leaf fat is pulled
grasp them carefully and firmly so they out by loosening it at the rib end and
will not tear and fall. fisting it up and out.
5
.~. ' ...
\'1'.' ~ ~". 'i~' 't
'.1
CHILLING 89
separate it into a few major pieces. Fill a clean barrel about a third
full of water, stirring up in the water about 3 pounds of common
salt. Put in some large chunks of ice and the pieces of meat. This
iced brine will be colder than ordinary ice water and will satisfac-
torily chill the meat even in mild weather. Another method is to
place a layer of chipped ice on a clean surface, spreading the carcass
out on the ice and putting additional chipped ice on top. The
iced-brine method in the barrel, however, is more efficient and gives
a better chill.
Sometimes insufficiently cooled pieces are salted lightly with a
FIG. 41. The carcass is now ready for chilling. The meat
thermometer inserted into the center of the ham shows
when the meat is properly chilled (30 0 to 35° F.).
90
I
BUTCHERING HOGS
dry-cure mIxture an-d spread on a rack where they will have as much
ventilation as possible. None of the methods just described for
chilling pork are as safe or as satisfactory as storing the meat at the
proper temperature, either natural or artificial.
Meat should not be cut up and put into cure until it is thoroughly
chilled and all the animal heat is out. A good job of cutting and
trimming meat cannot be done on warm meat. Neither should salt
be applied to warm meat. Quite often home-cured meat has been
made inferior in quality and actual loss caused by cutting up and
salting meat that still has the animal heat in it.
FIG. 42. Brine chilling. Separate each half of the carcass into these major cuts or
pieces.
VI
[B UTCHERING CATTLE]
,£ ~ (§TUNNING )
b? (BLEEDING)
~ LWith the animal lying on its side, the sticker should face the same
/ direction as the animal. He should stretch the animal's neck out as
far as possible, holding it in position with one foot against the jaw
and the other in front and against the forelegs. Pressure should be
applied on both the jaw and forelegs to maintain the stretch and
make it more convenient for sticking the animal. This also lessens
the danger of the sticker being struck by the front feet of the animal.
With the sticking knife, cut through the skin from the breastbone
toward the throat, making a cut about 10 to 12 inches long and deep
enough to expose the windpipe. Insert the knife with the back of
91
92 BUTCHERING CATTLE
the blade against the breastbone, and point the tip directly toward
the backbone at the top of the shoulders just under the windpipe,
and cut forward toward the head. This will sever ample arteries
and veins to facilitate free bleeding.
After the animal is stuck, place your foot on the animal's flank and
alternately lunge forward on this foot and then pull back on the
'}
tail in order to speed up the bleeding materiallV '
. i _
BLEEDING 93
AVERAGE PERCENTAGES
(Certain Parts of Carcasses of Full-fed Hereford Steersl Classified According
to Fatness and Average Weights of the Animals and Carcasses)
Other
Water Protein Fat Ash constituents
% % % % %
Liver ................. , 69.5 20.0 2.5 1.5 6.5
Kidney .............. ' " 77.0 16.5 3.5 1.1 1.9
Heart .................. 77.5 16.0 3.5 1.0 2.0
Tongue ................ 67.0 16.0 13.5 0.9 2.5
Brains ................. 71.0 10.8 13.5 1.7 3.0
Tripe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.0 8.0 8.0 0.9 0.5
FIG. 45. Severing the tendons. Cut at FIG. 46. Skinning the head-first opera·
a mark below the dewclaws. tion.
FIG. 47. Skinning the head-the last FIG. 48. Detach the head by cUlling
operation before detaching it. across the neck just back of the jaw.
FIG. 49. Propping the carcass in posi· FIG. 50. Skinning the foreleg.
tion with a pritch.
FIG. 51. Freeing the shank and hoof. FIG. 52. Skinning the hind shank.
FIG. 53. Removing hind shank at lower FIG. 54. Skinning the thigh.
hock joint.
FIG. 55. The thigh is only partly FIG. 56. Opening a line on the hide
skinned before hoisting the carcass. It from the brisket to the tail.
is more convenient to complete the
skinning when hoisted, and it is also
conducive to cleanliness.
Now grasp the head by the lower jaw and unjoint it at the atlas
joint, which is the first joint back of the head. Make a cut across the
neck just behind the jaws. A slight twist of the head will unjoint
it from the neck after the muscles and connective tissue have been
':i severed. '\ .
_J6
9 F., ..•
I
SKINNING THE CARCASS 97
k>s-- (SKINNING THE CARCASS )
£.r---tfrop the carcass squ~rely on its back with a block of wood, a stick
sharpened at both ends, or a pritch. Split the hide over the back of
the forelegs from the dewclaws to a point 2 or 3 inches above the
knee. Skin out the shank and remove it just below the knee. Be sure
to pull the hide back on both sides of the shank, then saw through
the shank bone just below the lower joint. After some practice it is
easy to cut through this straight joint with a knife.
Cut across the hind leg at the joint below the hock, severing the
tendons to permit the leg to relax. Split the hide from the dew-
claws to the hock and up over the rear of the thigh to a point from
4 to 6 inches back of the cod. Skin the hock and shin and sever the
leg at the lowest joint of the hock. In splitting the hide over the
thigh, the knife should be turned down flat, with the edge pointed
outward and a little upward to avoid cutting or gouging into the
lean of the round. The inside of the thigh may be skinned well
down but the outside should not be skinned until after the carcass
has been raised. Before hoisting the carcass, split the hide down
the middle of the belly from the brisket to the tail and then skin
back from this line until the side is well started.
The next, and the most difficult, part of skinning is known as
"siding." The skinning knife should have a smooth, keen edge.
Grasp the handle well up toward the blade and hold the blade flat
against the surface of the hide, which must be stretched tightlil {; ._
This will avoid cuts and scores on the flesh. In removing the hicte: :..s
keep the blade turned slightly toward it in order to avoid gashing
the flat muscle covering the abdomen, or thin "fell" membrane
which lies between the meat and the skin. This membrane serves
to protect the meat from drying out and from the attack of molds.
The carcass should be sided down as far as possible. It is easier
to do this in the present position than to delay the siding until the
carcass is hoisted.
The appearance of the carcass will be improved if all blood spots
are wiped from the surface during the skinning operation. A bucket
of warm water and a clean cloth are needed for this purpose. The
cloth should be wrung out so it contains as little moisture as pos-
sible.
-GG (OPENING THE ABDOMINAL CAVITY)
[Open the carcass down the midline by starting- the incision large
enough for entrance of the hand just back of the breastbone. Point
the knife upward on the outside of the abdomen, the hand and
98 BUTCHERING CATTLE
r
FIG. 57. Siding is the most difficult part FIG. 58. Opening the abdominal cavity.
of the skinning operation. Care should
be taken to avoid gashing the flat
muscle covering the "fell" membrane.
The hide is held with the hand on the
olltside, for both convenience and
cleanliness.
FIG. 59. Sawing the breastbone. FIG. 60. The pelvic bone divided.
handle of the knife inside, cutting from this point all the way down
the midline of the carcass to a point near the cod or udder. Cut
through the abdomen carefully so as to avoid puncturing the paunch
or intestines and protect them from the knife blade with the left
hand. Cut through the brisket, exposing the breastbone, and saw
~; through the latter. Loosen the windpipe and gullet, but do not
, ,
if' ~01
HOISTING 99
cut them off. Saw or split the pelvic bone, which is exposed by cut-
ting through the muscle midway between the hind legs. Remove
the caul fat:] {, I
b HOISTING
Make an incision between the large tendons and the hock. Be-
tween the tendons and shank bones insert the beef tree or spreader.
Now raise the hind part of the carcass to a height convenient for
skinning the rump and tail. Cut through the hide on the underside
of the tail. Sever the tail bone at a joint near the base and pull it
out of the hide. Skin the rump on each side of the tail. Hoist the
carcass a little higher now and skin the hide from the hindquarters.
The hide may be removed from the thighs by pulling and jerking,
or it may be "beaten" off by striking the hide with the back of the
cleaver. If the hide does not yield readily, it can be loosened with
the knife. As in siding, one should be careful to avoid removing the
fell with the hide. Dip a clean cloth in hot water, wring it out, and
wipe the hocks and hindquarters to clean off blood and other debris.
Next, loosen the rectum by cutting around it. After the rectum
is cut free, tie it off with heavy twine and then work it loose from
the backbone. Leave the kidneys and fat in which they are im-
bedded in the carcass. Let the rectum and the intestines drop down
over the paunch. Now, cut the liver from the intestines to prevent
the gall bladder breaking and fouling the liver. Then grasp the
connective tissue of the gall bladder with the fingers and pull the
gall bladder loose. Wash the liver thoroughly in cold, fresh water
and hang it up to drain and cool. Pull down on the paunch to tear
it loose from the carcass and let it fall into a tub or other container.
Hoist the carcass until it clears the ground. Cut out the dia-
phragm (the sheet of muscle which separates the heart and lungs
from the stomach and intestines), but allow the muscles of the
diaphragm to remain attached to the carcass. Take out the heart,
lungs, and gullet. Wash the heart and hang it by the small end to
drain. Complete skinning by removing the hide from the shoulders.
(The carcass is no~ ready to be split do~n. the cente~ of the back-
bone. In commerCIal slaughterhouses this IS done With a cleaver,
but most people can do a better and smoother job with a saw. After
the carcass is split, it should be washed completely with clean, tepid
water. Move each foreleg up and down several times, to aid in
draining the blood from vessels in the shoulders. Trim off all the
ragged edges over the carcass to improve its appearance)" ,
6r
100 BUTCHERING CATTLE
FIG. 61. Opening the hide on the un- FIG. 62. Pulling the tail out of the
derside of the tail. hide.
FIG. 63. Skinning the outside of the FIG. 64. Pulling the hide from the
thigh (rump). thighs.
SPLITTING THE CARCASS 101
FIG. 65. Loosening the offal. FIG. 66. Removing the offal.
\),
FIG. 67. Removing the heart, lungs and FIG. 68. Removing the hide from the
gullt:t. back.
102 BUTCHERING CATTLE
FIG. 69. Sawing the backbone. FIG. 70. Splitting the bones in the neck
with an ax.
FIG. 71. Removing the tongue. FIG. 72. Splitting the skull to remove
the brains .
. .;,..
CHILLING 103
-6..g (CHILLING ' )
~ ~SLAUGHTERING CALVES)
Veal is the dressed carcass of a calf between 1 and 3 months old,
weighing from 75 to 150 pounds. The same general procedure in
butchering, skinning, and eviscerating cattle can be followed for
calves except the animal should not be kept off feed for longer than
6 to 8 hours before butchering; but during this time the calf should
have plenty of clean, fresh water. Calves produced by beef cattle
furnish the most desirable veal, as the calves are blockier in form
and more heavily muscled. However, calves from dairy cattle are
also used for veaL)
Stun the calf before sticking, as in cattle, but the blow need not
be too heavy. Butchering is made easier if the carcass is hoisted to
a convenient height before skinning. Wash the hide and split it
from head to tail, following the middle line of the belly. If the
carcass is to be cut up at home, the hide may be removed at once, as
the carcass can be skinned more easily while it is still warm. With a
sharp skinning knife cut open the hide, then "fist" it off. Eviscerate
and then split the breastbone and pelvis, as described for cattle. If
the carcass is to be shipped or transported some distance, the hide
should not be removed, for it preserves the light color and prevents
the carcass from drying out.
A carcass dressed with the hide removed dries out quite rapidly.
When the hide is removed, rapid drying can be prevented to some
extent by draping and spreading the caul fat over the hindquarters.
The caul fat is the thin sheet of membrane extending from the
stomach over the intestines.
VII
The ease with which lambs and sheep can be dressed makes them
a convenient source of fresh meat for family use. Lamb is the flesh
of young sheep. Handy-weight 25- to 45-pound lamb carcasses yield
comparatively small cuts. The entire carcass is small enough so that
with home refrigeration a family can consume the meat before
spoilage occurs. Portions of lamb can also be frozen or canned.
Some cuts can be cured satisfactorily. It can be kept as an emer-
gency food reserve or as a source of variety in the diet.
A lamb carcass chills quickly and cures easily. Lambs generally
dress out about 50 per cent, which means that an SO-pound lamb
will make approximately a 40-pound carcass. The trimmed leg
roasts from a 40-pound carcass will weigh about 6 pounds each; and
the shoulder roasts, about 5 pounds apiece. There will be about 7
pounds of breast and neck and S pounds of loin and rib to be roasted
or cut into 30 medium-thick chops.
The United States Department of Agriculture tells us that all
these cuts are normally tender enough to be adapted to cooking in
any of several ways. The shoulder and even the breast may be oven-
roasted if that method is preferred to braising the breast with vege-
tables. Cold roast lamb is an excellent filler for sandwiches, and the
leftovers from any cooked lamb can be utilized in many tasty com-
binations.
Many families who were formerly not familiar with lamb now
enjoy its characteristic flavor and have included this fresh meat in
their regular diet. The desirability of lamb as a meat for home use
depends on four principal factors, as does that of other meat. These
are the breeding of the animal, how and to what extent it has been
fed, the age at which it is slaughtered, and the method of handling
the meat.
105
106 BUTCHERING SHEEP AND LAMBS
AVERAGE PERCENTAGES
(Of Certain Parts of Lamb Carcasses Classified According to Fatness)
Other
Water Protein Fat Ash constituents
% % % % %
Liver .................. 71.26 19.38 3.90 1.22 -.
Kidney ................. 78.96 15.88 3.52 1.20 .22
Heart .................. 69.80 16.88 11.54 1.12 .46
Tongue ............. , .. 69.46 14.50 14.71 1.21 .17
Brains .................. 80.24 10.38 6.92 1.30 ..
Tripe .................. "
.. .. .. ..
SOURCE: AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH SERVICE, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
"
(" '"
'r'
STICKING AND STUNNING 107
(The term "mutton," as commonly used commercially, applies to
tin:-flesh of older sheep, that is lives (over 12 months of age) and
wethers (over 18 months of age). Such meat, especially that from
well-fed sheep, though frequently less tender than the meat from
the younger lambs, also is suitable for family use. Be sure that sheep
and lambs selected for slaughter are thrifty and healthy. Slaugh-
tering equipment (page 58) and care before slaughtering (page 64)
have been discussed previously. However, a bench, box, or even a
clean floor will serve as the place on which to kill and dress a lamb;
nevertheless, a V-shaped trough of proper height is very convenient,
if much lamb or sheep slaughtering is to be done.
Twenty-four hours before they are killed lambs should be penned
up in order that the fleece will be dry. It is difficult to keep the
wool from touching the carcass at times during dressing, but the
drier the fleece the cleaner the carcass will be. During this penned
period, no feed but plenty of clean, fresh water should be available.
A lamb with a full stomach is harder to butcher than one with an
empty stomach.
Naturally, a lamb should be handled carefully and gently before
slaughter. Pushing it around and grabbing it by the fleece will cause
a bruised and unattractive carcass. Such meat is not only unattrac-
tive, but has poor keeping quality. Quietly and carefully place the
left hand under the throat and the right hand at the tail head. I
. --.) / j
7V ['STICKING AND STUNNING}
FIG. 73. Sticking a lamb on a bench. Pressure from the right knee holds the
lamb in position.
J,'IG. 74. Sticking a lamb [rom a sus- FIG. 75. Stunning a lamb. Pull the
pended position. With the left hand head up and back with the left hand
hold the head securely, to prevent its and push dOWJ} hard with the heel of
swinging. the right hand.
,
"
SKINNING THE LEGS 109
After the throat is cut, the neck should be broken. Grasp the nose
with the left hand and the wool, on the face between the lamb's
eyes, with the right. Pull the nose up and back and push down hard
with the heel of the right hand on the lamb's face. This should
easily break open the big atlas joint at the base of the head, if the
muscles next to the neck bone were severed in cutting the throat.
Permitting the Iamb to struggle promotes bleeding. For this reason,
holding the lamb is preferable to tying.
FIG.
..
.";-..,:,~~
-"'~
FIG. 78. Pulling the pelt over the bris- FIG. 79. Unjointing the foot from the
ket. Hold the pelt at the end and pull skinned hindleg.
steadily.
{,
,~,
FlSTING THE PELT OFF THE CARCASS III
hock and leg. Then unjoint the foot at the lowest joint or the one
next the hoof. Be sure to unjoint the foot as described, so that the
tendons will not pull out when the carcass is hung.
Slip the knife between the leg bone and the tendons to make an
opening for the gambrel used in hanging the carcass. There are two
tendons; so be sure to raise both, as one may not be strong enough
to hold the carcass. Skin out the other hind leg. Now grasp the
pointed strip of pelt and pull it back over the cod or ud.der as far
as it will go without tearing the flesh.
and arm sideways and free the pelt over the flank and inside of the
hind leg. Here fisting is begun down the middle instead of at the side
as in skinning the brisket. Fisting in this manner lessens the chances
of getting beneath and tearing the flank muscles.
REMOVING THE PELT 113
7_~ (REMOVING THE PELT )
~r(After the legs have been skinned and the pelt fisted off the belly,
insert a gambrel in the hind legs, between the tendons and the leg
bones, and suspend the carcass. A hook or support 7 feet from the
ground or floor is a good working height.
Cut the pelt open down the middle of the belly, cutting loose the
navel. Hold the pelt tightly with the left hand, work the right hand
around the stifle and then up the outside of the left leg. Change
hands, or cross hands, and fist out the right hind leg. This will roll
the fleece away from the clean carcass. Fist down past the shoulder,
pull the skin free from the foreleg, and then fist out the side of the
neck. Push the pelt free from the sides and fist off the rump. The
rump may stick, so to free it work the pelt from both sides. Push up
from underneath until the pelt hangs only by the skin fastened to
the anus and tail. ,-
At the lower end of the sheep's front leg is a true joint. This must
be opened to cut off the pastern and foot of mature sheep. Up the
leg from the true joint is a cartilaginous suture in the bone. With
a sharp twist it can be broken apart at the suture joint in most
lambs. With yearling lambs and with old sheep this suture joint
will not break and the foot must be unjointed. It is customary to cut
off the forefeet of lambs at this suture, which identifies the carcass
as lamb. This break joint is taken as a definite indication of the age
of the animal. Cut or nick the membranes on the side of the leg just
over this lamb joint. Break the joint open where it has been cut by
pressing the foot sideways. If necessary, the leg can be held against
the knee in making this breaD 1S.~
While the pelt is still hangmg to and stretching the tail, push
the knife in beside and above the anus, cut clear around it and
loosen the anus so that 10 or 12 inches of the colon can be pulled up
and out of the body cavity. Tie the colon before it is dropped back
into the body cavity so that its contents will not foul the carcass.
Cut and pull the skin free from the dock and pull and fist it free
from the back. It is usually possible to do this without any knife
work and leave a smooth carcass.
Pull the pelt down the neck. Use the knife to free the pelt around
the skull and ove~the face. Remove the head by cutting through the
throat just back of the jaw, unjointing it at the atlas bone. Wash
the carcass well with clean, warm water and wipe it dry with clean
cloths wrung out in hot water.
114 BUTCHERING SHEEP AND LAMBS
FIG. 84. Pushing the pelt away from FIG. 85. Fisting the pelt free from the
the foreflank and shoulder. back. The next step will he to cut the
pelt free from the dock.
FIG. 86. Pulling the pelt free from the :FIG. 87. Insert the fingers of the left
neck. This should be easily accom- hand inside the abdominal cavity to
plished if the sides have first been hold the intell1al organs away from
fisted free. the knife while opening the carcass
,,,! t·V. '! down the front.
OPENING THE CARCASS 115
7t (OPENING THE CARCASS )
71, (Cut down the middle of the carcass from just below the cod or
udder to the cartilage of the breastbone or brisket. Into this, the
clenched fist grasping the knife is forced. The fist pushes away
the paunch from the heel of the knife and prevents cutting into the
paunch as the belly wall is ripped downward. Allow the paunch
and intestines to roll out and hang. Reach in and locate the already
loosened and tied colon and pull and work it down past the kidneys.
Grasp and remove the bladder taking care not to split its contents
on the meat. Roll out the paunch slightly and get a firm grip on it
with the left hand where it joins the intestines. Work the right
hand into the body cavity, up the ribs and behind the liver. Tear it
loose where it is attached near the right kidney. Use care in remov-
ing it, for the liver is a choice product. Still keep a firm hold on the
viscera, work the right hand under the paunch along the diaphragm
and pull and push the organs up and from the carcass. Tie the
gullet with a stout cord where it enters the chest cavity; then cut
the paunch free by severing the gullet below the cord. Tying pre-
vents the digestive contents from spilling over the carcass when the
gullet is cut. A helper will be needed in making the tie and cutting,_
the gullet. Drop the offal into a clean container for later inspecti~~J,£
Next split the breastbone. If the animal is over 1 year old, a saw .
may be required as well as a knife. To remove the pluck (heart
and lungs), cut the white part of the diaphragm. Then cut loose
the pluck on each side of the brisket, loosen the large blood vessels
along the backbone and pull the pluck down and out.
(Remove the gall bladder from the liver by pinching under the
neck or small end of the bladder with the thumb and forefinger.
Tear or cut the upper or smaller end free and pull gently to peel
out the main body of the bladder. The bladder can also be cut out
with a knife. In removing the gall bladder precaution should be
taken not to puncture or cut it, for then the gall will run over the
liver and cause a bitter flavor. After the gall bladder is removed,
wash the liver in clean, cold water to remove any possible bitter
'" i
flavor. /c
After the tongue is cut from the head, split the skull and remove
the brains. The liver, heart, and tongue should be carefully washed
in clean, cold water and hung up to chill. The caul fat if clean
may be used in cooking. Cut the small intestines from the stomach
116 BUTCHERING SHEEP AND LAMBS
and remove the fat. They are easily separated from the fat by pull-
ing carefully with the hands. They may be cleaned, salted and used
for sausage casings. The fat is usually used for soap stock.
Now the freshly slaughtered carcass is ready for chilling. It should
be chilled to a temperature above freezing and below 40°F. as soon
as possible. Fresh meat, in commercial establishments, is held at
about 34° for storing and ripening. (See section on "Fresh and
Seasoned Meat" in Chapter I.)
FIG. 88. Removing the heart and lungs after splitting the
brisket.
VIII
Relatively few people realize that venison and other game meats
will give any family budget a much needed lift. It is surprising how
few persons in this country have ever eaten game.
In mo~ecent times game has been hunted primarily for sport,
and the emphasis has been on recreation rather than on obtaining
food. Therefore, game meats have not been utilized to the fullest
possible extent in supplementing the domestic meat supply, and
little time has been devoted to their preparation and cooking.
Game meats should be used more often and a taste for venison
and wild fowl cultivated. This will increase variety in the diet with
practically no increase in cost. Game is not expensive if one shoots
it, but if it is badly dressed or cooked improperly it is a total loss.
Considerable game meat is wasted each hunting season through
spoilage because some hunters are ignorant, indifferent, or lazy
when it comes to processing their kill. Warm, freshly killed game
requires even more prompt attention to bleeding and chilling than
domestic meat animals. Spoilage starts quickly, especially in the
muscles that have been torn or bruised by bullets.
BIG GAME
As soon as the animal is shot, unless you wish to save the head
for mounting, bleed it by cutting the throat. If possible, turn the
carcass with the head downhill so that it will bleed freely. There
are two ways of dressing a big game animal. One is with the carcass
lying on the ground, the other is hoisting it off the ground. Some
hunters carry a very light block-and-tackle so they can hoist the
animal.
., To open the body cavity of a deer lying on the ground, insert
-!- • •
BUTCHERING A HANGING DEER 119
the knife near the breastbone. Locate the lower end of it and slit
the skin. Make a small opening, then insert two fingers beneath the
hide and back of the knife to guard it from piercing the stomach
and intestines when the knife is advanced toward the tail of the
animal. Open the carcass from throat to crotch. When you cut to
the genitals, stop. Remove the knife, cut around the genitals, and
pull them out. Then cut out the rectum. A stout hunting knife or
a belt ax may be used to split the breastbone. Be as careful as pos-
sible in preventing the hair from coming in contact with the meat.
Now cut loose the organs in the pelvic cavity. Reach inside the
carcass, down between the hip bones, catch hold of the large intes-
tine, and pull it out and tie it off.
Now turn the carcass with the head uphill, cut windpipe and gullet
free at throat. Hold these in the hand and pull backward, at the
same time cutting free from the carcass any part that tends to hold.
Remove the entrails to the base of the tail. If the carcass must be
removed from the woods before cooling and quartering, leave the
liver and heart in the body cavity. Open the chest cavity by spreading
with a stick. Drain off blood and wipe with a clean cloth. Do not
wash with water. Trim away all parts damaged by gunshot.
After the animal -!las been bled, loosen the tendons in each hind
leg. Insert a pole, 3~ to 4 feet long and pointed on both ends. Then
hoist the carcass with a block-and-tackle, or by the limb of a tree,
a crossbeam, or a tripod erected for the purpose. At the hock joint
cut around the skin on each hind leg. Run the knife down along
the inside of each leg to the cod or testicles. Skin out the hind legs
carefully, using the knife skillfully. Pull the tail out of the skin
as far as possible and then cut it off. Proceed in the same manner
as described for skinning and dressing calves. With a sharp knife
held nearly flat against the surface and with the hide stretched
tightly, remove the skin down over the sides with steady down
strokes of the knife. "Fisting," will help separate the hide from the
flesh on certain parts of the body. Some prefer as a matter of pro-
tection in transportation to leave the skin on the carcass. This is
only advisable in very cool weather. If state laws permit, it is better
to quarter the animal before moving. Eviscerate and remove the
edible organs in the same manner as that described for cattle.
Remove the liver-there is no gall bladder-save the heart, liver,
kidneys, and pancreas (sweetbread). They are delicacies and well
worth all the trouble you may experience in saving them.
120 DRESSING GAME ANIMALS
INSERT STICK
AT £1lI1£ R OF'
FIG. 90. A deer carcass can be hoisted with an improvised winch or a small
block-and-tackle.
In removing the tongue from the head, place the head face down,
cut along the inner surface of the lower jaw, lift up the tongue and
cut it off at the base. A hand ax can be used to cut the bones at the
base of the tongue. Allow the fat to remain at the base of the
tongue. Wash the tongue well in clean, cold water and scrape it
with a knife, from the tip to the base, then hang it up to drain and
cool. Saw or split the skull and lift out the brains.
SMALL GAME· \
'.J.
SMALL GAME 12~
the spine in the small of the back near the rump. They are generally
pea-shaped, waxy or reddish looking "kernels." Avoid cutting these
glands, or bringing them in contact with the meat. The degree to
which they flavor the meat varies with the season, but in most fur
animals they are always objectionable.
In the case of the cottontail and jack rabbit, these small, waxy-
looking glands are located under the front legs just where they join
the body. The same is true of raccoons-these so-called "kernels" or
scent glands are located under the front legs and on either side of
the spine in the small of the back. The woodchuck also has these
glands in the form of red nodules under the forelegs. The muskrat
derives its name from its scent or musk glands. They give off a
characteristic pungent odor and, if cooked with the meat, impart
a strong flavor. The large pair of musk glands lie under the skin
on the lower part of the abdomen. They are light yellow and have a
corrugated appearance. In addition, there are some small internal
glands located in the inguinal region of the thighs, between the
forelegs and between the shoulders on the back. They resemble
small, yellow, fat bodies and are so inconspicuous they are over-
looked by most people. As the breeding season approaches, the
glands become more active and should be removed.
FIG. 94. Domestic and wild rabbits may be skinneti in the same way. Steps
(right to left): remove the head; cut off the tail, thell free hind leg at the hock
joint, and the front feet; then cut the skin just below the hock of the suspended
leg and open it on the inside of the leg to the TOot of the tail, continuing the
cut to the hock of the left leg; and carefully separate the skin from the carcass
and start pulling it down over the animal.
IX
Hides and skins of animals are made into leather. Those from
large and adult bovines are suitable for sale, harness, belting, or
heavy leathers. Skins from small animals, such as sheep, goats,
calves, deer, and antelope, are made into light and fancy leathers.
While there are other commercial sources of hides and skins, the
important ones are the usual domesticated farm and range animals.
The hides and skins of animals are valuable. The first essential
for a satisfactory yield of good leather is a sound, clean hide or skin.
Therefore, skinning should be done properly, without cutting or
scoring the hide; and at the same time all the fat and flesh should
be removed, for, if left on, they increase the tendency of the hide or
skin to rot or spoil.
Preparation of the hide or skin may be begun as soon as it has
been taken off the animal, drained, and cooled. Overnight will be
long enough to allow the hide to lose its body heat. Remove dirt,
blood, and any pieces of flesh by scraping the skin side with the back
of a butcher knife and by careful trimming. Split the ears twice.
Immediately wash both sides of the hide with clear, cold water and
use a brush, scrubbing particularly the hair side to remove all dirt.
Let the hide drain thoroughly to remove the e~(!ss water, and then
begin to apply the salt. --
When the weather is cold, hides and skins may be kept safely
for some time without salting, though care should be taken to pre-
vent them from freezing. During spring, summer, and fall, however,
they must be salted promptly and thoroughly if they are to be made
into sound leather and pay for the work of curing them.
FIG. 95. Each hide is bundled separately and tied securely. A soft rope or line
at least 14 inch thick will answer the purpose. Never use wire. An individual
hide to be shipped requires more wrapping. ,;'
I
\
r' <,
" ",~.
x
-----
8 \.CUTTING THE CARCASS)
FIG. 96. The different cuts of pork. Guide lines (in the side of pork at the top)
show where cuts should be made. Underneath are the principal cuts before they
are trimmed-jowl, shoulder, loin, bacon, ham; next are the trimmed cuts; and
last the trimmings.
F.,\".
PORK 129
FIG. 97. If the head has not been removed previously. cut it off at a point where
the backbone ends.
FIG. 98. Start cutting up the carcass at the shoulder. through the third and
fourth ribs.
130 CUTTING THE CARCASS
at right angles to the back. Use the knife to complete the cut. If
the head has not been removed previously, then cut off the jowl at
a point where the backbone ends, which is in line with the wrinkle
of the neck.
Trim some of the cheek meat from the jowl and flatten it out
with the broad side of a cleaver or hatchet and square it up by
trimming with a knife. The trimmed jowl is known as a "bacon
square" and can be cured and used the same as bacon, or used for
seasoning with boiled foods.
Remove the neck bone from the shoulder, leaving very little meat
on the bone. Trim the shoulder and cut off the shank. This is the
"long-cut" method of trimming and will give the maximum of cured
meat from the shoulder. Saw the shank off above the knee joint.
FIG. 99. Remove the neckbone from the shoulder, leaving very little meat on the
bone. Trim up the shoulder and cut off the shank.
FIG. 100. This is the long-cut method of trimming and gives the maximum of
cured meat from the shoulder. Shank is sawed off above knee joint.
PORK 131
If smaller cured cuts are desired, the shoulder can be divided
between the smallest part of the blade bone, producing a picnic
shoulder and butt. The picnic shoulder will cure quicker than the
long·cut method and makes a convenient, handy-size shoulder for
small families. When the shoulder is separated into picnic and butt,
the clear plate, which is the covering of fat on the top of the shoul-
der butt, is skinned off. The fat may be cured for seasoning or used
for lard. The lean portion is known as the "Boston" butt and can
be cured or used for sausage. When neatly trimmed, the picnic
shoulder has the appearance of a small ham.
To take off the ham, saw on a line at right angles to the hind
shank and at a point about three finger widths in front of the aitch-
bone. Finish the cut with the knife and begin shaping the ham by
curving the cut on the belly side.
FIG. 101. To take off the ham, saw on a line at right angles to the hind shank
and at a point about three finger-widths in front of the aitchbone.
FIG. 102. Smooth up the ham by trimming off all the loose pieces of meat.
Hams that are neatly trimmed cure better and are easier to wrap.
132 CUTTING THE CARCASS
To remove the tail bone slip the knife under the tail bone and
continue the cut along the bone, keeping the knife as fiat as possible.
If the hams were faced when the carcass was hung up to chill, each
ham then will require comparatively little trimming. When the
tail bone is removed the hams should be trimmed smooth of all loose
pieces of meat which can be used for sausage. If the corners and
loose pieces are left on the hams they will dry up in the cure, having
little food value, and the hams will be less attractive. Hams that
are neatly trimmed and rounded cure better and are easier to wrap.
If hams are exceptionally fat, and if too much fat is objectionable,
the hams can be skinned. This is done by leaving a collar of skin
around one-third of the ham at the shank end. The balance of the
fat is trimmed off, leaving about one-fourth inch of fat over the
lean. Skinned hams do not keep as well as hams that are not
skinned, and for that reason skinning is not recommended as a gen-
eral practice. After hams are trimmed, saw off the shanks just below
the button of the hock.
FIG. 103. After the ham is trimmed, saw off the shank just below the bottom
of the hock.
To separate the loin from the belly, the ribs are sawed across at
their greatest curvature. This is about one-third the distance from
the top of the backbone to the bottom part of the belly edge. Make
this cut so as to include the tenderloin with the loin. After the
ribs are sawed through, finish the cut with the knife, completely
separating the belly side from the loin. Lay the belly on the table,
skin side up, and smooth out the wrinkles as well as possible with
the palm of the hand. A few sharp blows from the side of the cleaver
or hatchet will help loosen the spare ribs from the belly.
' ..
PORK 133
Now turn the belly, skin side down, and trim out the ribs. Start
this cut by loosening the neck bone at the top of the ribs. Keep the
knife as flat as possible to avoid gouging the bacon. Pull the ribs
upward as the cut is made and trim as close to the ribs as possible.
FIG. 104. Separate the loin from the belly by sawing aCross their greatest curva·
ture.
FIG. 105. After the ribs are sawed through, finish the cut with the knife.
134 CUTTING THE CARCASS
The cartilaginous ends or "buttons" of the lower ribs are left on
the bacon.
Square the bacon by trimming the lower edge first to a straight
line. All of the "seeds," the mammary glands along the lower edge,
should be trimmed out of choice bacon. Next trim the top on a line
parallel to the lower edge until a good streak of lean appears and
then square both ends enough to reach an attractive lean streak.
Frequently there is an uneven space at the front end of the bacon,
FIG. 106. Start cutting out the ribs with the neck bone at the top or the ribs, and
keep the knife as flat as possible.
I". \ •.•
PORK 135
which is known as the bacon brisket. This may be cured or used
for sausage or lard.
The tenderloin is the small lean muscle which lies underneath the
backbone in the rear of the loin. It is one of the most popular of all
pork cuts to be used fresh. It is generally prepared by cutting across
into pieces about I inch thick, and "frenching." This is done by
placing the pieces of tenderloin (on end) on a strip of parchment
or waxed paper and folding the paper over the top of the meat. The
meat is then struck a sharp blow with the flat side of the cleaver,
flattening it out. The paper keeps the meat from sticking to the
table or the cleaver. These delightful morsels cannot be equaled for
tenderness by any other pork cut.
FIG. 108. Trim out the small lean muscle (tenderloin) which lies underneath the
backbone in the rear of the loin.
After taking out the tenderloin, remove the fat back from the
loin. Place the loin skin side down, set the knife about one-fourth
inch under the lean or muscle meat, and make a full length cut.
Reverse the loin and make the same cut from the other side. This
separates the fat back from the loin. The fat back may be used for
lard or may be cured and used for seasoning when cooking. The
remaining fat on the loin should be smoothed off up to about one-
fourth inch in thickness. The loin is one of the choicest cuts of
pork and it is made possible by splitting the carcass down the
136 CUTTING THE CARCASS
FIG. 109. Separate the fat back from the loin and smooth up the remaining fat to
about ~ inch in thickness.
FIG. 110. Well-trimmed pieces of pork (left to right): shoulder hutt, picnic ham,
and trimmings piled on plate.
middle of the back instead of cutting along each side of the back-
bone. One of the most practical ways to use the loin is to cure it
as Canadian style bacon.
After trimming the loin cut up the other one-half of the carcass,
starting with the shoulder and finishing with the loin.
All pieces for curing should be trimmed smoothly and uniformly.
Remove all blood spots (almost always found in the shoulder) and
ragged pieces of meat and fat. A good job of trimming reduces
waste. The meat will get a uniform cure and have a better flavor
and a more appetizing appearance.
BEEF AND VEAL 137
FIG. Ill. Skinning fat trimmings. Keep the knife parallel with the table and
the edge turned slightly downward toward the skin.
i
7( Beef.
• The first step in cutting the beef carcass is quartering or
"ribbing down." This divides the fore and hindquarters. Each side
of beef has thirteen ribs. Insert the knife blade between the twelfth
and thirteenth ribs at a point midway between the backbone and
flank. Cut the backbone on a parallel with the ribs, then cut toward
the flank leaving 6 to 8 inches of flank to hold up the forequarter
when the backbone has been sawed. Saw the backbone in two on a
line with the knife cut between the ribs. This will leave the fore-
quarter hanging from the uncut strip at the flank. Now, while one
person holds the forequarter to keep it from falling, another one
finishes the cut at the flank, completing the separation of the fore
and hindquarters. ) ? t,
There are different methods of cutting up the beef carcass. The
fOllowing one, however, is intended to give pieces suitable for cur-
ing, cooking, and canning.
Cutting the Forequarter. Place the forequarter on the cutting
table with the outside up. Along the twelfth rib about 10 inches
from the backbone is the point to begin making the first cut. The
idea is to separate the plate from the rib. Start at this point and
make a straight line cut across the shank just above the elbow
joint. Cut through the meat to the ribs. Saw along the same line
and remove the plate and brisket. A saw rather than an ax or
cleaver should be used for cutting bones. This will avoid splintering
138 CUTTING THE CARCASS
Boneless Tenderloin
Loin Roast F,ench.d and Whole
- - 101l.t - . -Roa.t, Iroi ••, 'anfry-
~36
Canadian Style Bacon loin Chop
-~t:"p.n~i'Y-~
~ ~\'4~lOS
Rib Frenched Butterfly
Chop R;b Chop Chop
- - - - B r G i •• 0, P a n f r y - - - -
··fr~~
Sirloin Roas.
"2~
loin Roost
Cenler C\lt
Crown Roost
RO.II------
Spate Ribs
~~~
100,1 llakel. lroi •• , Cook In Llquld - -
~j C\Q,
,
Blode Smoked
Steaks Shoulder Butt
_araile, 'GAfry-e-Roa" Ilok.), Cook' in-
\j
Liquid, .roil, 'anbroil,
'·"lJy
T Cush;on
Picnic Shoulder
- -_ _ _ _ 10••' _ _ _ _ __
Rolled Fresh
Picnic Shoulder
,
t
'"
BEEF AND VEAL 139
FIG. 113. Black lines show wholesale cuts, and white lines show retail cuts.
140 CUTTING THE CARCASS
the bone and causing unnecessary waste of meat. Now, saw the
foreshank off at the elbow. Cut between the fifth and sixth ribs to
separate the rib cut from the chuck. Complete the cut with the saw,
passing through the backbone. There are seven ribs in the set of
ribs which may be further divided into two or three rib roasts.
Roasts are made by cutting between the ribs. These roasts may be
boned and rolled if desired. The chuck is somewhat less tender and
better adapted for pot roasts, corning, or grinding. It can also be
cut into roasts if desired. A two-rib roast called a chuck roast can
be cut. A round-bone pot roast can be removed by cutting across
the shank bone. Additional chuck roasts are then cut parallel with
the ribs. The remainder, the neck and shoulder, may be cut into
suitable size pieces for stewing or boned out for hamburger or mince
,Jj
meat. . ' ,'It
Jr.;
BEEF AND VEAL 141
FIG. 115. Separating the plate from the rib. Start cutting 10 inches from the
backbone along the 12th rib.
FIG. 117. Separating rib and chuck. Cut between the fifth and sixth ribs.
1"'. \ ..•
'f
BEEF AND VEAL 143
Now trim out the kidney and the fat in which It IS imbedded,
but leave enough fat on the backbone to COver the tenderloin.
Separate the loin from the round and rump at the ball-and-socket
hip joint. Cut directly below and parallel to the pelvic arch. Start
this cut with a knife; complete it with the Saw. The loin may be
divided into the sirloin and porterhouse at the hip joint. Steaks
from the short loin are good eating. Separate the rump from the
round by sawing across the floor of the aitchbone. The rump makes
a desirable roast or choice corned bee£. The pelvic bone may be
trimmed out of the rump. The shank may be cut off at the upper
end of the long bone.
FIG. 120. separate the loin from the round at the hall-and-socket hip joint.
FIG. 121. After starting the cut with a knife, complete it with the saw.
144 CUTTING THE CARCASS
FIG. 122. Dividing the loin into short loin and loin end.
FIG. 123. The rump is removed from the round by sawing across the floor of the
aitchbone.
BEEF AND VEAL 145
~
Ground Beef Heel of Round
Roatt (80ke), Broil, ._"Gi,e 0' _ _ Steak Top Round Bottom Round
(Swlu Steak)
•
Plllnbroil, Pantry, Cook in lhtuid _ B r a i , e - - Braile *___ Brai.e_
~q
Hind Shank Rolled Rump Standing Rump
- Cook in liquid {Soup) or Brai,.- - - - - Brai .. or Rooll
~~~
Rolled Flank Flank Meat
- - Broil. or Cook in LiIllUid - -
Shank
Knuckle
~(j~Triangl. Bon ..I.... Chuck Should..r
--Cook in Liquid (SOl,lp), I r a i , . - - Pot-Roast Pot-Roast Fillet
~ ~~
Rolled Neck Bonel .... Nee,
- _ .rai,. or Cook in Liquid - - . -
FIG_ 124.
146 CUTTING THE CARCASS
1J,_ (Veal. Veal is very tender and is mostly lean meat. It contains
very little fat. Veal also contains a high percentage of moisture, and
for that reason most of the carcass should be utilized as fresh meat.
The heavier cuts can be cured and canned advantageously.
After the carcass has been chilled thoroughly, cutting can begin.
The same general pattern followed in cutting a beef carcass can
also apply to veal. The sweetbreads, brains, and liver are choice
FIG. 125. Guide lines for making veal cuts. The sweet·
breads, brains and liver are choice parts that are used
first.
parts. They should be removed and used first. The neck and shank
can be cut into chunks and used tor stews and soups. The trim-
mings can be ground for veal loaf. 1\t J
,t(' (Split the carcass with a saw in the sa~e manner as that prescribed
for beef. Now the veal carcass is ready for cutting. Separate the
147
BEEF AND VEAL d How to Cook Them
Meat Cuts an RT
VEAL CHA
Retail Cuts Wholesale Cuts Retail Cuts
__
\#~ H••I of
Round
Hind Shank
.d
lrab. 0' Cook in Liqlll
__
\) Blade
Roast Roost or Ired,.
~
Blade
~
Arm
Steak
- - - Steok. rai •• or Panfry
FIG. 126.
148 CUTTING THE CARCASS
fore from the hindquarter. Remove the foreleg by cutting just above
the elbow bone. Separate the front shank from the shoulder and
back. The shoulder may be cut into chops or steaks, as they are
sometimes called, or it may be boned and used for a roast. After
the bone is removed, the meat is rolled lengthwise and tied tightly
with cord crosswise around the roll about an inch apart.
Work on the hindquarter begins by cutting the sirloin roast from
the leg of veal. After that, remove the rump from the leg. Round
steaks or cutlets are cut from the leg of veal) 'J.s.-
(prdinarily the lamb carcass is not split down the center of the
backbone, but it may be. The beginner, however, will find it easier
to divide the carcass into the most desirable pieces for using fresh
or for curing. There are many different ways of cutting the lamb
carcass. The cuts made depend a great deal on the uses to be made
of the meat, whether most of it is to be used fresh, canned, or cured.
The hrger cuts, liKe the legs and shoulders, are the best wts f.ur
curing. Corned lamb is easy to process, and the breast and shank
are best suited for this purpose. A good way to use the small pieces
and trimmings is to grind the meat and make lamb patties or mix
it with pork in making sausage.
FIG. 127. Black guide lines show where to make the cuts to separate the lamb
carcass into the most desirable pieces for using fresh or for curing.
-%k CThe lamb carcass, like beef, has thirteen pairs of ribs. Begin by
sawing off the shoulder between the fifth and sixth ribs; or, if a
narrow shoulder is preferred, saw between the third and fourth ribs.
Then cut the neck off on a line flush with the shoulder. Saw off the
shank. Separate the shoulders by sawing through the backbone.
Turn the carcass on its side, with the legs toward you and saw off
the breast piece. Then separate the rack frorn the loin by cutting
between the last two ribs to the backbone. Start the cut with a knife
..D;:: ......
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~.
....... ~
'"0
-5i
.,.u
~
c::
f ...c::
~
c::
:§ oj
!,
"
...'"'"
vc::
.D
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'"0 '"0
c::~ ~ ~
I'"'
....
...'" :;u E ~
.......
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oi ..:
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149
150 CUTTING THE CARCASS
and complete with a saw through the backbone. Rib chops may be
cut from the rack after splitting, or the piece can be used for making ,-.Ill
a crown roast. Cut and saw the loin from the long legs through the II
small of the back or just forward of the hip bones. Now the sirloin
is cut from the loin in the same manner. The thickness is optional.
The sirloin makes an excellent size roast, or it can be cut into
chops. The legs are then separated by splitting down the center of
the backbone with the saw. )
( ....
,. i~
, \
,
FIG. 132. Two methods of trimming a leg of lamb for roasting: (1) French
method, with chops removed (shown at 3); (2) long-cut leg.
:~
LAMB AND MUTTON 151
Meat Cuts and How to Cook Them
~. LAMB CHART
Retail Cuts Wholesale Cuts Retail Cuts
80neless
Sirloin Roast"
Leg
(lh,.. (uh "0m one leg)
-Ioo.f - e·l,oil, 'onbroil, Ponfry -.-Irais.,-
Roo,'
.1 English
Chop
-I,oil, 'a"b,oll, Pon"y_ • _
~~
Pattie,
Rolled Loin
Roasf
Roa.t-
L.... '
c.~Rolled
Shoulde,
80neless
Shoulde, Chops
-Roa,t, .tol •• - . - - - .roll, - - -
'a"broll, 'onfry, Itol ..
FIG. 133.
152 CUTTING THE CARCASS
VENISON
Venison 1 from tbe deer or elk has always been a staple article of
diet, a favorite with hunters and epicures. It is covered with white,
scented fat, which connoisseurs greatly appreciate.
Venison is an excellent substitute for beef and mutton, which
meats it resembles in texture, color, and general characteristics. Its
flavor is distinctive, suggestive of beef rather than mutton.
Venison becomes more tender and palatable when allowed to
ripen or age for a short time. When conditions permit, it may be
allowed to hang from two to three weeks before being cut up.
The first step in cutting a venison carcass is to split it with a saw
down through the back and neck. From this point on the procedure
is the same as that described for a beef or veal carcass. It is not
necessary to make all these cuts in cutting up venison because it is
not nearly as long oor as well-fleshed in all its parts as an average
steer. However, if you wish to take time and trouble to make such
cuts, you will be rewarded by a more efficient utilization of the meat
and attain better results in cooking. Stew and soup meat come from
the neck and shanks; the round and rump furnish roasts, round
steaks, and soup bones. From the flank and plate come ribs and
good stew meat, and the chuck yields roasts.
How to cut up venison without wasting any of it is best described
in an article, "Venison-(As You Like It)," which appeared in the
December 1941 issue of Gourmet Magazine.
A deer, though it is not a very large animal, may seem large, indeed,
when one is confronted with the eating of it. There seems so much meat
all at once, and surely some must be wasted. Yet of waste there need be
but little. I mind the -white-tail I once prepared in this manner:
The neck I boned, and trimmed the meat into a square. The trimmings
went through the food chopper, and were mixed, half and half, with fresh
fat pork, then seasoned with salt and pepper, nutmeg, and a little sage.
This ground venison made an excellent breakfast sausage and a meat loaf.
The bones went into chasseur soups, consomme, and venison stock. And
the square of neck meat was used for stews, salmis, and ragouts.
The front legs, too, were boned, and then tied, and steeped for four or
five days in a marinade made of 1 part red sour wine to 2 parts water, and
seasoned with garlic, celery, onions, bay leaves, carrots, cloves, caraway
seeds, whole black pepper, salt and a little sugar. After the marinating,
1 The term "venison" comes from the Latin term venatus which means "to
hunt." The latter probably is akin to the Sandskrit term venati, which means
"he desires, attacks, gains." Originally, the word venison applied to the flesh of
any beast or bird of the chase, but has now come to apply only to flesh of deer
and deer kind.
VENISON 153
FIG. 134. Some cuts of venison: upper left-a roll-top shoulder with a slice of
fresh pork fat for self-basting; upper right-a rolled shoulder of a fat doe; center
-rib chops from a fat doe (they show some marbling); lower-a venison round
steak.
I roasted the meat in a hot oven till it was just done, and used the mari-
nade as a basting liquor for the roast and a foundation for the gravy.
The ribs, of. course, became chops. Cut between each bone, the chops
were seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter, and were broiled over an
open fire until they were done to a medium turn. And just before they
were taken from the fire, they were seasoned again with salt and freshly
ground black pepper.
The hindlegs were treated as though they were lamb. With a clove of
garlic the meat was rubbed well, and into the pan with the meat went an-
other clove of garlic, along with 2Y2 cups of tomatoes-a No.2 can-and a
sprig of celery-top tied together with a few sprigs of parsley and a large
bay leaf, and pepper and salt, of course. When the meat had been cooked,
the surplus fat went into the gravy, made from browned flour and stock
from venison bones. The gravy, cooked till the flour taste was gone, was
strained through a cheese cloth, and enriched with half a cup of currant
jelly, the juice of an orange and half a lemon, and a bit of the shredded
rind of both.
The short ribs were cut, some one, some two ribs to the piece, and were
placed in a covered roasting pan with canned tomatoes, and seasoned with
whole black peppers and smoked salt. The ribs were then baked until
they were almost done. When the meat began to appear dry during the
baking, it was basted with venison stock, not water. For the final cooking,
154 CUTTING THE CARCASS
•
(
FIG. 135. Rabbit carcasses cut up for the pan. The heart is to the left and the
liver to the right of each carcass. Left to right: carcass of small fryer rabbit cut
into seven pieces; carcass cut with bandsaw into uniform pieces; a larger carcass
cut into portions for individual serving.
the ribs were placed in an open pan, and returned to the oven for crisp-
ing. The drippings from the ribs became a gravy through the addition
of a thin paste made of flour and butter. This gravy was allowed to boil
up a few times to eliminate the flour taste, and was then strained through
a cheese cloth.
The flanks wound up in a ragout. The meat was cut into I-inch pieces,
and dredged with flour, then fried until it was a rich brown. In a heavy
pot some butter was heated to a nut brown color, and some finely diced
onions and garlic were added to brown. With these the already browned
meat was placed, and covered with venison stock. Twenty minutes before
the meat was ready, fresh mushrooms and green peppers, both cut in
half-inch dice, were dropped in the ragout, along with a bouquet garni,
salt, pepper, and enough good red wine barely to cover.
For these dishes no other accompaniment is needed but a prefatory cup
of consomme, a side dish of a fine chestnut puree, a climaxing light
dessert, and a red Burgundy of good year and good name. There are those,
of course, who prefer Champagne, and those, again, whose tastes run to
whiskey and rum.
Of course, all these dishes were not made at once. A deer carcass
will probably last for some time, so it should be properly stored so
that pieces may be sliced off when they are needed.
J.
2. (, 39/)
\;a _r~:i\~;'~'
_ . .~ 20.8'· gr'
XI
\
FIG. 136. Cutting the bird's throat from
the outside. Cut the large vein and the
cross vein at the same time (0 insure
good bleeding.
,t
:I
'i
,
,
Jg
FIG. 137. Dry-picking of birds (feathers twisted and rolled out instead of pulled):
(a) removing tail feathers; (b) removing large wing feathers; (c) removing
feathers from sides; (d) removing feathers from legs; (e) removing feathers from
back, hips, and wings (smaller feathers are picked with thumb and forefinger);
(I) removing neck feathers; (g) removing pinfeathers.
to loosen the feathers in the feather muscles. If the brain has not
been properly pierced, the feathers are hard to pluck and the skin
is frequently torn badly. A blood can, weighted in the bottom, is
hooked on to the lower mandible (beak) to catch the blood. The
can also prevents the bird from moving too much.
In dry plucking, rapidity of movement is necessary. Different
pluckers have different methods, but it has been found that the
following order is convenient and rapid: wings, tail, breast, body,
back, legs, neck and finishing of the wings.
As soon as the blood can has been hooked to the beak, a squeezing
motion with the fingers around the neck from the base toward the
head removes the feathers of the neck.
j
REMOVING FEATHERS 159
Then the wings are held firmly in the left hand, and the main
wing feathers are removed with one jerk by the right hand, and
the main tail feathers are given a slight twist, which should remove
them with ease. The soft feathers covering the breast are removed
readily by a sort of rubbing motion, rubbing the same way the
feathers normally lie. The thighs and legs are easily plucked in
much the same manner as the neck, and lastly the back and body
of the bird are plucked. After plucking has been completed, pin-
feathers may be removed by using a dull, round-bladed knife. Care
should be taken not to tear the skin; even small blemishes lower
the market value of the dressed bird.
Wet plucking after scalding the chickens is much simpler than
dry plucking and is satisfactory where the dressed birds are sold
locally or are not to be stored. Care should be taken not to have the
water too hot (not more than about 190°F.), or the skin will be
hardened or partially scalded.
After the bird has been dressed, the head and feet should be
washed with a stiff brush. The vent should be squeezed, and if any
feed remains in the crop it should be removed through an opening
made just above the shoulders.
The head should be wrapped in parchment paper. Then the bird
is put into a cool place, because it is necessary that the heat pass out
of the body as soon as possible after the fowl has been killed. The
dressed birds should be hung or laid separate from each other to
allow the air to pass around all parts of the body. Proper cooling
prevents bacteria from developing and tends to keep the fowls
much longer.
Turkeys. Usually turkeys are killed and plucked in the same
manner as chickens. Dry plucking is the method preferred for
dressing turkeys for home use or local trade. Scald plucking may
also be used if the turkey is to be consumed at home. Dressed
turkeys should be thoroughly cooled as soon as possible.
Ducks. No feed should be given to ducks for at least 12 hours
prior to killing. The bird is suspended by the feet; the jugular vein
in the throat just below the base of the skull is cut through the
mouth or stuck in the neck. A blood cup is attached to hold the
head down and permit good bleeding.
When bleeding is completed, begin plucking or the dressed car-
cass is likely to be discolored. Ducks are plucked either dry or after
being scalded. The temperature of the water should be just below
the boiling point. If the water is not hot enough, plucking is diffi-
cult; and if the water is too hot or the ducks are left in it too long,
160 DRESSING POULTRY AND WILD FOWL
the skin is likely to be torn. When plucking is completed, plunge
the bird into scalding water and pull it out quickly, then remove
all pinfeathers with a small knife. Wash dirt off the feet witli a
damp cloth. Remove all blood from the head and bill. Squeeze
vent to remove any feces, and singe the bird. After plucking, cool
the bird thoroughly in cold water. Change water frequently in
order to remove body heat quickly and to chill the duck thoroughly.
Geese. Care should be taken in handling geese at killing time as
the flesh bruises easily, and the bruised spots detract from the ap-
pearance of the dressed product. Stick a goose in the same way as
previously described for ducks. Hang a weighted blood cup on the
lower bill to steady the bird and catch the blood. The dry plucking
of geese is rather difficult, and the most common practice is to scald
or steam the feathers before plucking. After geese are picked they
are usually washed and put into ice water to cool.
Squabs. When squabs are fully feathered under their wings,
which is when the birds are from 25 to 30 days of age, they are ready
to kill and dress. They may be taken from the nests the evening
before they are to be killed so that the crops will be emptied when
they are dressed. If there is any feed in the crops after the birds are
killed it should be flushed out. The usual method of killing squabs
is to hang them by the feet on a hook or nail, and cut the jugular
vein in the mouth just below the base of the skull, using a knife
with a long slender blade. After bleeding, they should be dry-picked
immediately, as the feathers are hard to pull out if the birds are
allowed to get cold. Squabs may be picked on a bench or held in
the lap. They should be picked clean and all pinfeathers removed.
Care must be taken not to bruise or tear the skin for the skin of a
squab is very tender. After squabs are plucked, they are washed and
cooled promptly in cold water to remove all body heat. Squabs
that are not properly cooled after plucking never make first quality
birds, no matter how well they are chilled later.
DRAWING POULTRY
,.~'.
DRAWING POULTRY 161
FIG. 138. Method of eviscerating a bird to be left whole: (a) removing head; (b)
slitting skin down the back of the neck; (c) remuving crop and windpipe; (d)
removing neck.
FIG. 139. (a) Cutting off the leg; (b) cutting out the oil sack.
,~
_~_;t·(·
f' 10 r ..
(d) cutting body in half
163
164 DRESSING POULTRY AND WILD FOWL
and other vital organs from the ribs and walls of the chest. Fifth,
remove the feet at the hock joints, leaving a small bit of the hock
skin on the hock joint. This will help tq> keep the skin anchored over
the drumstick while roasting. Sixth, make an incision between the
rear end of the keel bone and the rectum large enough to remove
the contents of the body cavity easily. Cut around the rectum and
draw out the lungs, heart, liver, and intestines. In fat birds it is
best to remove the abdominal fat before the intestines.
After the vital organs are removed, examine the abdominal cavity
for bits of lungs or other organs that may have been missed. Cool
or partially cooled birds draw more easily than warm ones. The
gizzard linings peel more easily when cooled and dipped in cold
water. The gall bladder can be removed by grasping the lobes of
the liver and letting the weight of the intestines pull down on the
bile sacs. Then cut the gall bladder out of the liver.
Broilers and springers can be drawn by cutting them along the
spinal column, starting at the base of the tail head. Both sides of
the spinal column can be cut loose and removed with the neck. The
bird can be laid open to remove the entrails. The two halves can
be left intact at the keel after the entrails are removed, or they can
be cut into halves or quarters.
WILD FOWL
FIG. 141. Plucking a duck. Hold the duck in the left hand
and pluck with the right hand. With the thumh and
forefinger grasp feathers and down near the skin. Then
roll the right hand outward.
FIG. 143. Singeing with an alcohol flame to remove hair and down
feathers.
168 DRESSING POULTRY AND WILD FOWL
I
I
(Today the modern housewife can obtain almost any kind of fish
she wants-fresh or frozen-in fillet or steak form. It is also possible
for her to buy fish in the retail or wholesale markets in the round
(just as it comes from the water), drawn (which means the entrails
have been removed), or dressed (scales, entrails, head, tail, and fins
removed). Fish is marketed in various forms for different uses. To
buy intelligently requires a knowledge of these commercial forms
or "cuts." So to aid the consumer in purchasing fish the U. S. Fish
and Wildlife Service has prepared illustrations and descriptive mate-
rial which are presented here~
Most varieties of fish can be purchased frozen, and they are avail-
able the year round. Frozen fish can now be obtained by the con-
sumers who live near or far from the source of supply. Frozen fish
may be used interchangeably with fresh fish.
FIG. 145. Whole or round fish are those FIG. 146. Drawn fish are marketed with
marketed lust as they come from the only the entrails removed. In prepara-
water. Before cooking, they must be tion for cooking, they generally are
scaled and eviscerated (which means re- scaled. Head, tail, and fins are re-
moving the entrails). The head, tail, moved, if desired, and the fish split or
and fins may be removed if desired, cut into serving-size portions. Small
and the fish either split or cut into drawn fish, or larger sizes intended for
serving-size portions, except in fish in- baking, may be cooked in the form
tended for baking. Some small fish, purchased after being scaled.
like smelt, are frequently cooked with
only the entrails removed.
FIG. 147. Dressed or Pan-dressed. FIG. 148. steaks are cross section slices
Dressed fish are scaled and eviscerated, of the larger sizes of dressed fish. They
usually with the head, tail, and fins are ready to cook as purchased, except
removed. The smaller sizes are ready for dividing the very largest into serv-
for cooking as purchased (pan-dressed). ing-size portions. A cross section of the
The larger sizes of dressed fish may be backbone is lIsually the only bone in
baked as purchased but frequently are the steak.
Cll t into steaks or serving-size portions.
CATCHING FISH 171
FIG. 149. Single fillet. The sides of the
fish, cut lengthwise away from the
backbone, are called Fillets. They are
practically boneless and require no
preparation for cooking. Sometimes the
skin, with the scales removed, is left on
the fillets; others are skinned. A fillet
cut from one side of a fish is called a
single fillet. This is the type of fillet
most generally seen in the market.
FIG. 150. Butterfly Fillets are the two FIG. 151. Sticks are pieces of fish cut
sides of the fish corresponding to two lengthwise or crosswise from fillets or
single fillets held together by uncut steaks into portions of uniform width
flesh and the skin. and length.
CATCHING FISH
One never can tell when the husband or the boys are going fish-
ing, or when a kindly neighbor will proudly present the little
woman with part of his catch. This happens most unexpectedly, so
one must be prepared for this emergency. It is easier when you
know how. This is how you go about it.
Scales come off a wet fish easier than a dry one, so soak the fish in
water before you begin to scale it. Lay the fish on a cutting or
chopping board. Grasp the fish firmly with one hand by the head.
With a saw-toothed knife or scaler, scrape off the scales, working
from the tail toward the head. Do a clean job and work off all the
scales near the base of the fins and head.
Now cut a slit in the fish's belly, from head to the vent (anal
opening) and remove the entrails. Cut off the head, including the
pectoral fins, by cutting above the collarbone. If the backbone is
large, cut down to it on each side of the fish. Snap the backbone
by bending the head over the cutting board or table. Now cut off
the head and tail. Remove the fins by cutting into the flesh on both
sides of the fish at the base of the fins. Then the fin and fin bones
can be pulled out easily. Never trim the fins off with shears or a
knife since the bones at the base will be left in the fish. Wash the
fish in cold running water to remove blood and all remaining scales,
viscera, and membranes.
\(,
,.,,{' FIG. 152. Scaling fish. Use dull blade or back edge of knife.
f"
'.1.
HOW TO CLEAN FISH 173
;;1·
i-
FREEZING
When water in meat juice freezes it draws pure water to the ice
crystals and leaves behind the coloring, flavor, and food material
that has been dissolved or suspended in it. Freezing is a kind of
drying process which produces changes in the composition of the
meat. These meat juices are not re-formed when the meat thaws.
However, when meat is quickly frozen, these changes are slight.
When meat is frozen slowly, the changes may be so great as to cause
.. Hankins, O. G., Hiner, R. L., Sulzbacher, W. L., Gaddis, A. M., How to
Keep Meat from Spoiling: The Year Book of Agriculture, 1950·51.
178 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
a loss of quality. There is also some rupture or tearing of the cell
tissues as the ice crystals form and expand.
Rapid freezing produces minute crystals which are rather evenly
distributed through the meat. When such a product is thawed, the
moisture is reabsorbed as the crystals melt. There are three different
methods of quick freezing-direct immersion in low-temperature
brine, ipdirect contact with the refrigerant, and air blast.
Select animals or dressed carcasses with the weight that will give
the size of steaks and roasts desired. Popular weights are: hogs, 200-
250 pounds; calves, 150-250 pounds, steers or heifers, 600-1,000
pounds. All animals must be healthy. Suitable veterinarian in-
spection is available in many localities, and its use should be en-
couraged:
Slaughtering, chilling, aging, or ripening and cutting for all meats
has been discussed previously. However, a few additional sug-
gestions for the proper cutting of meat for freezing will be given
here. The main considerations are the family needs and the cook-
ing methods adapted to the tenderness of the meat to be cooked.
The proper cutting method, then, is to separate the tender steaks
CUT TO FIT FAMILY NEEDS 179
and roasts from pot roasts, stew meat, and meat that should be
ground.
Remember the best carcass contains many muscles that are too
well filled with connective tissue to be tender unless the tissue is
slowly softened by braising or stewing. The thin, less tender shanks,
neck, brisket, plate, and flank must be prepared for pot roasts, or
ground.
The thick, heavy muscles of the shoulder and rump from young, -+
Veal 150 90 70
Beef 1000 580 450
Steak and
oven roasts 40
Pot roasts 20
Stew and
ground meat 20
Lamb 100 50 35
Legs, chops
and shoulders 75
Breast and stew 15
POIk 225 180 115 plus
Ham, shoulder, 30 lard
bacon and jowls 50
Loins, ribs
and sausages 20
Rendered lard 15
All lamb ctits can be made tender by slow roasting, and lamb can
be cut up most satisfactorily for freezer storage.
Boning all the cuts from a side of beef or lamb reduces the storage
space required by about one-fourth. Trim all the cuts closely to save
space. Sharp edges of bone that may puncture the wrapping paper
should be removed.
A large variety of meats can be frozen in the home freezer and
then later thawed and cured as you like them. It is quite possible to
have delicious, fresh pork sausage or fresh cured breakfast bacon in
June or July from hogs that were butchered in late fall and early
winter.
For freezer storage of fresh pork, hams can be cut into good,
usable sized pieces-pork shoulders as rolled picnics; Boston butts
can be boneless or left with the blade bone in. Bacon sides can be
cut into convenient 3- or 4-pound pieces.
Loins can be boned, cut in half, and later cured as delicious
Canadian-style bacon. Jowls, when cured, can be used for boiling
PACKAGING MEAT FOR FREEZING 181
or frying. Pork trimmings can be used months later for making
fresh pork sausage; hog-head meat, for making headcheese any time
of the year. Sausage is often frozen without seasoning, as the aro-
matic flavor of the spices may disappear during several months of
storage. If the seasoning is added before freezing, be sure that the
sausage is packaged in a vapor-resistant wrap or container.
Beef can be taken from the freezer and cured as corn beef or dried
beef, and tongues when cured can be cooked and used for hot or
cold meals or served as cold cuts.
Freezing, curing, smoking, and canning game, including fish, in
some states is definitely restricted, and the meat is subject to posses-
sion limits during closed seasons the same as fresh game. Consult
your local game warden or locker operator for regulations regarding
legal periods for storage of game and fish.
The ideal wrapping for meat to be frozen must resist water vapor
and gases, have good tensile strength and pliability at all tempera-
tures, be odorless and nontoxic, and be easily peeled from the frozen
meat. It can be sealed with heat, is easy to mark for identification,
and is moisture- and stain-proof.
No existing wrapper or container possesses all these qualities.
Each home processor must select the one or ones best suited to the
meat and meat products handled, to the available storage condi-
tions, and to the length of the intended storage period.
Films, foils, and laminates are among the most effective wrapping
materials available. Different kinds of films are available for packag-
ing. Among them are the cellophanes or cellophane-like films, such
as polyethelene. The only foils used for wrapping foods are alumi-
num foils. Use only the freezing-weight foil (.0015 gauge) to
package frozen meat. Laminates are made of two sheets of material
stuck together. The inner sheet protects the product; the outer re-
sists scuffing. Films and foils are more subject to scuffing, tearing,
and puncturing, and may require some protection. Ordinary waxed
freezer papers are not satisfactory for packaging meat, fish, or
poultry, because they are no guarantee against oxygen moisture.
Butcher paper and kraft paper should not be placed against the
food; they should be used only to protect the inner wrap.
The best wrapping material is of little value unless it is properly
applied. A good plan to follow in selecting the proper wrapping
for frozen meat is to give the best protection to the products that are
182 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFO('T'o
FIG. 164. Press and mold wrap firmly against the meat.
Pull folded ends tightly.
PACKAGING MEAT FOR FREEZING 183
to be stored for 6 months or longer. Use the less effective, cheaper
coverings for the others. Seasoned sausage should have airtight
protection.
When frozen meat is removed from freezer storage, examine it
carefully for drying. In your home freezer or locker the cheaper
material may be good enough for long storage, or it may be neces-
sary to put a more effective vapor-resistant covering on all foods.
The same wrapping materials are used for meat and poultry.
Freezing does little to improve meat and only tends to maintain
its original condition. Therefore, care is essential in choosing meat
to be stored. Lean cuts generally store better than fat cuts. Ripened
or aged meat tends to lose quality more rapidly than unripened.
Beef and lamb should be held in the cooler only a few days. Pork
should be stored immediately after the animal heat has left the car-
cass. Pork turns rancid if kept much longer before freezing. Freeze
veal, liver, heart, and other specialty meats immediately after chill-
ing. Veal loses quality rapidly after chilling, so it requires immedi-
ate freezing. The liver, heart, and sweetbreads are not protected
by fat and are quite moist. They are easily contaminated and very
perishable. Not only should they be frozen immediately after chill-
ing, but they should be used a few weeks after freezing.
Beef, Veal, Lamb and Pork. Cut the meat into such sizes as you
will wish to remove from the freezer and use at one time. Be sure
to remove all sharp edges or corners from the meat and poultry that
might puncture the paper. Put the meat in as compact a form as
possible. This will save storage space and paper and make wrapping
easier.
Pull the wrapping material tight, and smooth down to force out
the air. Folding the two edges of paper together and over until tight
against the meat, as a drugstore clerk wraps a box of candy, reduces
air leakage through the seam. Fold the ends of the paper together
and turn them under the package. Pull the ends tight and then
heat-seal, tie, or seal with freezer tape. The seam may be also heat
sealed or taped.
Cellophane, latex, and some double-waxed paper can be sealed
by heating the top fold of the bag or the seams of the package with
a moderately warm flatiron or curling iron. Use just enough heat
and pressure to melt the paper or wax until it seals. If the seal is
scorched, a new seal or a new wrapper should be used. If it is not
possible to seal the package by heat, then proper folding and sticky
tape can be substituted. Ordinary gummed tape is not satisfactory;
a special tape is made for this purpose. Remember that careful
wrapping and sealing are as important as good wrapping material.
184 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
FIG. 168. Fold in sides and ends to exclude air, then tie or
tape.
'.J.
PACKAGING MEAT FOR FREEZING 187
Giblets, livers, hearts, and gizzards have a short storage life. They
should be packaged separately and eaten within 3 months. If many
birds are dressed at one time, package the livers and freeze for that
special occasion when broiled or saute chicken livers are served.
Cool the gizzards and hearts and pack for freezing.
Cut·up chicken, because it can be packaged flat, requires little
freezer space. Chilled poultry, however, may be dressed for freezing
and storage in different ways.
Broiler-fryer chickens are quite popular for home freezing. Fryers
weighing 2Y2 to 4 pounds, 10 to 16 weeks of age, are most desirable.
Many prefer to cut the chicken into regular frying pieces and pack
them into cellophane-lined rectangular cartons. A quart container
will hold an average-sized fryer. Just before sealing the package add
about one-half cup of water-enough to encase the pieces in ice.
The water forced the air out. If the giblets are included, be sure
they are first packaged separately in locker paper.
Broilers may be prepared by splitting down the back with a sharp
knife or kitchen scissors. Cut down both sides of the backbone and
remove it if desired. Dip the broiler halves in water and place skin
down on packaging material. Place two pieces of wrapping material
between the halves so they can be separated when frozen. Package
in films, foils, or laminated packaging materials.
FIG.173. Broilers may be prepared for freezing by splitting the bird into halves
with the kitchen shears and cutting along both sides of the backbone and re-
moving it .
•
188 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
Roasters-those large, well-fleshed birds-are left whole after dress-
ing. The neck and feet are cut off and the legs and wings are tied
tightly to the breast to save storage space.
Pieces of chicken, turkey, and other poultry are often frozen in
small packages. Divide the bird into portions required for one meal.
Usually the meaty pieces are put into one group, and the bony
pieces in another. Place each meaty piece in a fold of cellophane to
prevent freezing together. Package wet or add water just before
sealing. Allow no space for air pockets. Tie, heat-seal, or tape to
keep package air- and vapor-tight.
Bony pieces, necks, backs, and wings may also be cooked until
the meat falls from the bones, then frozen or canned with the broth
for stews, pies, or fricassee. Like other pre-cooked meats, cooked
poultry may be frozen, but the storage life is quite short.
Fish. Fish of all types and kinds, both salt and fresh water, can
be preserved perfectly when frozen. This includes shellfish-shrimp,
lobster, crab, and the like. Preparing them for freezing is simple,
but it should be done immediately. Freshness is indispensable to
well-flavored, palatable, and wholesome sea food. Stale odors and
flavors, as well as spoilage, develop rapidly when fish are removed
from the water and held at warm temperatures. Letting the fish
you buy or the fish you catch get warm before you pack it away in
the freezer is bad business. Keep it in a fine state of chill and you'll
have a fine fish when you remove it from the home freezer.
Like beef and pork, the quality of frozen fish and shellfish is de-
termined to a large degree by the quality of the product at the time
of freezing and the manner in which it is stored.
The methods of freezing fish and shellfish are much like those for
other meats. The package requirements are similar, as are also the
storage requirements.
Preparation for Freezing. All fish intended for freezing should be
scaled, dressed, and washed. Large fish are then cut into steaks, or
boneless strips known as fillets. Small fish are made ready for cook-
ing in like manner by removing the viscera, head, tail, and fins. All
this preparation has been previously described in Chapter XII,
Procuring, Cleaning, and Cutting Fish.
For home consumption, packaged fish has two distinct advan-
tages. First, a considerable saving in storage space is realized by
scaling and dressing. Second, it is possible to put into one package
just the amount of fish required for one family meal.
Frozen fish dry rapidly in freezer storage and must be carefully
wrapped in vapor-resistant paper. Fish may also be glazed with ice
by being frozen without wrapping and then dipped one or more
PACKAGING MEAT FOR FREEZING 189
times in near-freezing water. This plain water glaze is not perma-
nent. It cracks or evaporates and may need renewal every 4 to 6
weeks. Further protection by wrapping the glazed frozen fish in
vapor-resistant paper is recommended.
J
.1
FIG. 174. Small fish may be eviscerated and packaged for freezing.
~::
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191
192 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
fill the spaces between and around the fish and to just cover the
product. Air bubbles should be removed with the aid of a spatula
or blunt knife. The lid should be screwed tightly into place on the
rubber gasket, assuring an airtight seal. The jars are now ready for
freezing and subsequent storage. The ice serves to keep the air
away from the fish, and the jar seal prevents the loss of moisture
from the contents. Jars require considerable space in storage as com-
pared to other packaging methods and they are easily broken at low
temperature. However, some new types of jars are designed for
frozen food packaging. They are stronger and more efficiently
shaped for storage.
The following table was prepared by the U. S. Fish and Wildlife
Service to compare the protective qualities of various materials used
in packaging frozen fish.
Method of
Protection preparation Advantages Disadvantages
l. Ice glaze ......Round, dressed or Only satisfactory Reglazing is re-
drawn fish. Chunks. method for fish quired at inter-
in the rollnd va Is
2. Moisture-vapor Chunks, steaks, fil- Ease of handli ng Not adequate for
proof paper 1. lets and very small fish which have a
fish short storage life
3. Glass jars ...... Steaks, fillets and Maximum protec- Color may leach
very small fish tion
1 Moisture-vapor proof paper may be used to wrap glazed chunks for protec-
tion against evaporation of the glaze.
',f.
PACKAGING MEAT FOR FREEZING 193
Shellfish. Freezing shellfish presents quite a different problem
from that of fin fish, because more preparation is required before
they can be frozen. Some shellfish are available for only short pe-
riods of the year, and therefore it may be especially advantageous to
freeze them for later home use.
Oysters, scallops, and clams can be successfully frozen. To open
the shell satisfactorily requires considerable experience, so an inex-
perienced person will do better to obtain the shucked products,
which are readily available in season. Prior to shucking all bivalves
should be washed in clean water to eliminate sand. Oysters and
clams are opened by inserting a slender bladed knife between the
shells so as to sever the abductor muscle from the shell. The bill of
the shell may have to be hammered off to permit inserting the knife.
When shucking scallops only the abductor muscle or "eye," as it is
called, is utilized.
Suggested method of
preparing
Shucked, Cooked
headed,or in Cooked
Name Producing area Season dressed shell meat
Abalone ' " .. Pacific
Clams ... ' , ..
March to Jan. x - -
Atlantic & Pacific All year x - -
Crabs ....... Atlantic & Pacific All year - x x
Lobsters ..... Atlantic All year x x -
Mussels .....
Oysters ......
Atlantic March to June x - -
Atlantic, Gulf,
and Pacific Sept. to April x - -
Scallops ..... Atlantic All year x - -
Shrimp ...... Atlantic, Gulf,
and Pacific All year x x x
Spiny lobsters Atlantic & Pacific All year x x -
1 Clams, crabs, lobsters, mussels, oysters, and spiny lobsters, when purchased in
Normal storage
Product period
(months)
;~:h POrk}. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3~
~::::b }. ............................................
. \
6-9
[~::Nd""' }... ..... ,'................... 6-12
THAWING
1 Data from the Minn. Univ. Agr. Expt. Sta. Spec. Bul. 189.
Alabama.............. 84 Nevada............... 13
Arizona............... 32 New Hampshire ....... 27
Arkansas .............. 102 New Jersey. . . . . . . .. . .. 50
California ............ 505 New Mexico.. . . ...... 49
Colorado ............. 221 New York ............ 225
Connecticut ........... 59 North Carolina ........ 100
Delaware ............. II North Dakota ......... 294
Florida. . . ............ 78 Ohio ................. 466
Georgia .............. 146 Oklahoma . . . . . . . . . . . .. 300
Idaho ................ 200 Oregon ............... 504
Illinois ............... 581 Pennsylvania .......... 296
Indiana .............. 349 Rhode Island .. . . . . . . . . 8
Iowa ................. 858 South Carolina ........ 75
Kansas ............... 515 South Dakota . . . . . . . . .. 300
Kentucky ............. 110 Tennessee ............ 114
Louisiana ............. 42 Texas .. , ............. 546
Maryland ............. 21 Utah ................. 100
Massachussets ......... , 43 Vermont.............. 50
Michigan .............. 361 Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 77
Minnesota ............ 701 Washington ........... 694
Mississippi ............ 70 West Virginia.......... 25
Missouri .............. 477 Wisconsin ............ 651
Montana .............. 223 Wyoming ............. 79
Nebraska ............. 520
198 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
FIG. 175. Cold-storage locker plants employ butchers to cut, package, and place
the meat in the quick freeze unit. Here it freezes within 6 to 8 hours.
CURING MEATS
-,.
CURING MEATS 199
mersion, corning, or pickling (vinegar cured). Preserving meats by
drying, smoking and canning are treated separately.
Meat curing has a twofold aim-first to preserve the meat for fu-
ture use; and second, to give it added, desirable flavor. Curing meat
includes the application of dry salts, brine, or pickle, which in the
wider sense applies to any saline or acid preservative solution with
some modifications.
Curing is a race between the production of spoilage bacteria in
curing meats and the penetration of the preserving salts. It requires
weeks for the salts, brine, or pickle to reach sufficient concentration
to protect the center of hams, shoulders, and other large chunks of
meat. Low temperatures are the best means known today to prevent
the growth of spoilage organisms in meat until the salts have com-
pleted the tasks assigned to them.
Therefore, the success of curing depends on rapid distribution
of the curing ingredients before the putrefactive bacteria begin to
grow. This may be accomplished either by the dry-salt or sweet-
pickle method, with or without stitch pumping or artery pumping.
The essential ingredient then is salt. It draws moisture from the
muscle cells and at the same time enters the cells by osmosis. In this
way the salt is finally distributed through the tissue. Salt also
checks the action of certain harmful bacteria and inhibits several
types of enzymes. If too little salt is applied to the meat, the bacteria
that can grow in the presence of some salt will not be checked and
spoilage follows. The amount of salt applied may not be the de-
ciding factor, because complete distribution throughout the meat is
essential.
Sugar is used mainly to lessen the hardness of the straight salt
cure and to improve the flavor and texture of the meat. It also pro-
vides a suitable medium for the growth of the bacteria that are nec-
essary to break down the sugar into organic acids. One of these is
lactic acid which gives a pleasant flavor to meat. Sugar also helps
to fix color. Sugars commonly used in meat curing are cane, beet,
and corn.
Honey is often added to curing mixtures to give lean meat a
distinctive flavor. It can be used without sugar or to replace the
sugar. It is used in the same proportion as sugar.
Saltpeter is also an important ingredient of the curing mixture.
It has two functions-fixing color and checking the growth of certain
bacteria. Meat owes its red color to hemoglobin, an unstable pig-
ment which, say the meat specialists of the U. S. Department of
Agriculture, oxidizes to brown methemoglobin and combines with
nitric oxide to form red nitrosohemoglobin. Nitric oxide is formed
200 PRESERVING MEAT} FOWL} AND SEAFOOD
through the reduction of nitrate to nitrite. Certain bacteria which
occur normally on fresh meat are responsible for bringing about
this reaction. A combination of nitrite and nitrate in the ratio of
I to 10 makes a superior product. Saltpeter (nitrate of potassium)
preserves and dries the meat but it is used almost entirely because it
effectively fixes the bright-red color of the lean meat. Nitrate of
soda (Chile saltpeter) is a little stronger, and 1.7 ounces of nitrate of
soda will replace 2 ounces of saltpeter. The exact quantity of salt-
peter or nitrate of soda to be used should be weighed and mixed
thoroughly in the curing mixture. It is undesirable and quite un-
necessary to use more of either saltpeter or nitrate of soda than the
amount recommended.
f
J
FIG. 180. Dry·cure. Weigh and mix in· FIG. 181. Divide the curing mixture
gredients thoroughly, being especially into two approximately equal portions,
careful to mix the finely powdered one portion to use at once, the other
saltpeter through the salt. for later resalting.
"
PORK 205
In applying the curing mixture one must take precaution to use
the proportionate amount to each piece. The dry-cure ingredients
are mixed in the proportion of 8-2-2 and the total is 10 pounds. One-
half of this amount, or 5 pounds, is to be applied to 100 pounds of
meat when it is first put in cure. For example, each 15-pound ham
should receive the application of 15 per cent of the 5 pounds of
mixture or three-fourths of a pound; each 20-pound ham, I pound.
Bacon strips, because of their large surface in proportion to weight,
are frequently over salted. It will require some practice to deter-
mine properly the amount of mixture required by each piece.
Put each ham and shoulder into the pan of curing mixture and
rub the meat thoroughly with the mixture. A slow circular motion
in applying the mixture on both flesh and skin sides will prove most
efficacious. Force some curing mixture into the hock and along the
cut face of the butt, taking care not to injure the hand on the butt
bone in the process. Cover the face of the cut with the mixture and
pack the pieces carefully in place. The heavier pieces should be at
the bottom and the lighter ones on top. Do not pack the meat more
than 3 feet deep. Repeat the process in overhauling. The pieces at
the top of the original pack should be at the bottom when the meat
is resalted.
In mild weather, cover the box with a clean cloth to prevent flies
and other insects from getting at the meat. In very cold weather,
the meat should be covered or otherwise protected against freezing.
FIG. 183. Brine may be pumped into hams and other large
pieces along the bones and at the joints.
starts the cure right next to the bone, offsetting the chance of bone
taint, and gives a mild, thorough cure in the center of the meat.
After the pickle is pumped into the meat, the dry or sugar-cure is
rubbed on the outside of the meat in the regular manner.l
Smithfield Processed Ham. An especially cured ham is prepared
in Virginia and other South Atlantic States and has a countrywide
reputation as the Smithfield ham. Its distinctive aroma and flavor
are supposed to come from fattening the hogs on peanuts. However,
large numbers of fresh hams are shipped from the Middle West to
points in Virginia where they are given the Smithfield cure. Hogs
produced in the corn-belt states are not fed peanuts, so the distinc-
tive taste of the Smithfield ham undoubtedly is the result of special
processing rather than the feeding of peanuts.
These hams are cut with the long shank attached. They are
cured in a dry mixture for 5 to 7 days, depending on their weight.
They are then overhauled, resalted, and held in cure from 25 to 30
days (1 Y2 days per pound). After this dry cure is completed the
hams are washed in warm water, dried, sprinkled with pepper, and
cold smoked (70°-90°F.) for 10 to 15 days, after which they are aged
and mellowed by hanging in a dry room. These hams improve with
age and are in perfect condition when I year old.
Box-Cured Bacon. The box cure has been developed to produce
mild, fancy breakfast bacon with an appetizing flavor. The Morton
Salt Company has developed a special sugar cure and a box for
1 Home Curing Made Easy, published by Morton Salt Company, of Chicago,
Ill.
208 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
--
FIG. 184. A strong watertight container with suitable cover
is required to box cure fancy bacon.
curing fancy breakfast bacon. The box should be made strong and
watertight. Hardwood, such as oak or maple, is the best material
to use in constructing this box. The length and breadth of the box
should be approximately the size of an average bacon strip-lO
inches wide and 20 inches long. The depth can be determined by
the number of bacon strips to be cured at one time. Ordinarily a
box about 24 inches deep will accommodate the bacon sides from
5 or 6 hogs.
The top used to cover the meat in the box should be a slatted
gadget of the proper size to fit inside the box. This can be held
down by sufficient weight, or a hinged top can be made of the proper
dimensions so it will press on the slatted tray against the meat and
hold it under pressure while curing. The pressure should be firm
but not heavy.
This method is most successful for curing bacon, because the
shape of the pieces enables close packing. Select well-streaked, thick
bacon sides or bellies and trim the edges and ends square, leaving
the strip just large enough to fit flatly inside the bOi( to be used.
The formula for box-curing is 5 pounds of salt, 3 pounds of sugar,
and 3 ounces of saltpeter per 100 pounds of meat. Mix the ingredi-
ents well and then take a handful of the mixture and scatter it
evenly over the bottom of the box. Now pack a layer of bacon sides
just as closely as possible in the container. Tamp each belly as it is
packed with a wooden block in order to flatten it out and remove
CORNING BEEF 209
FIG. 185. Stringing a cured ham for FIG. 186. Scrub strung meat with stiff
smoking. Hams and shoulders through brush and hot (110 0 to 125 0 F.) water
shank; bacon, reinforce flank end with so it will take brighter color in smoke.
hardwood skewer or clean galvanized
wire to hold it squ31"e ill smoke.
CORNING BEEF
CURING TONGUE
LAMB
Among the peoples of the U.S.S.R. and some of the satellite coun-
tries, cured mutton is regarded as quite a delicacy. The neck, shoul-
der, and ribs are cut into small pieces and then sprinkled with salt,
pepper, pieces of garlic, dill, and parsley. The meat is then placed
in a stone crock and covered with boiled vinegar allowed to cool,
to which has been added an equal quantity of water flavored with
tarragon. The meat is allowed to remain in this mixture for several
hours to a day. Many eat the cured meat raw without smoking or
cooking it.
Lamb or mutton cured in this manner is generally run on long
skewers, separating each piece with onions, slices of bacon, and firm
tomatoes. They are then exposed to a flame or broiler and the juice
is collected. The meat is cooked rare and served on the skewer, gen-
erally with rice. The Russians call this Caucasian Shachlik or
Shahshlik. In Armenia, lamb or mutton prepared in this manner,
with a few national variations, is known as Shish Kebab. Both are
delicious when broiled out-of-doors over a low charcoal fire.
Lamb is easily and quickly cured, but there is the disadvantage
that the cuts dry rapidly after smoking and tend to become strong
in flavor. Legs and shoulders are the parts usually cured, although
any portion may be preserved by curing for later use. Ribs, loins,
and breasts that have been cured and smoked may become disa-
greeably dry and strong in flavor after only 3 or 4 weeks in storage.
Smoked legs store better than shoulders, but even legs will become
fairly dry and hard after 2 to 4 months' storage at room temperature.
Some families prefer the "gamey" flavor of cured lamb, and cure
several cuts for special use. Freshly smoked lamb may be boned and
canned in the pressure cooker by those who wish to prevent the
meat from drying. f
ing closed seasons the same as fresh game. Consult the local game warden for
this information (Appendix E) .
r,_t
, CURING FOWL 213
Venison resembles beef and mutton in texture, color, and general
characteristics. Its flavor is distinctive, suggesting beef rather than
mutton. The directions given for the curing of beef and lamb may
be used in curing venison. Corned and dried venison can be proc-
essed in the same manner as that described for beef. Cured and
smoked reindeer and bear loins were formerly a delicacy in Russia
and were obtainable in the best food shops.
CURING FOWL
·1.
FISH 215
the water, drain it quickly, and, working very rapidly, rub into its
skin Y2 ounce finely ground saltpeter and as much of the very hot
salt as the meat will absorb. Continue to rub salt into the bird
until it has cooled to lukewarm, which should take about 15 to 20
minutes. This dry-curing must be done as rapidly as possible to rub
in the greatest amount of salt. Dissolve y.4 pound of salt in 1 pint
of boiling water, and inject this brine with a needle syringe into the
wing and leg joints and along the flat part of the breastbone. Stuff
the cavity of the turkey with a large bunch of fresh herbs-tarragon,
marjoram, thyme-or any combination of the three. Secure a stout
cord loop around the legs, wrap the turkey entirely in cheesecloth,
and tie the ends with a cord on the legs. Now the bird is ready for
the smoke house. Chickens and ducks can be cured in the same
manner as turkey.
Geese. The legs and breast of the goose are the only parts used
in curing and smoking goose.
The legs and the breast are cut from the goose and placed in
brine. Trim off both sides of the breast and both legs. Place the
two pieces of breast together, meat side in, and sew the skin all
around. When the breast is completely enclosed fasten the twine at
one end as a loop to hang up the meat. Trim smooth both legs and
fasten a twine loop to each. Make a brine consisting of 1 pound of
salt and y.4 pound granulated sugar dissolved in 2 quarts of boiling
water. Leave the meat in the pickle for 3 weeks. Remove, rinse with
warm water, and hang up to dry. The goose meat is now ready for
the smokehouse.
Pheasants. A good brine cure for pheasant is a solution consisting
of 2 pounds of sugar, cured salt, Y2 box of allspice, and 1 gallon of
water. The birds are dressed similar to a roasting chicken or turkey.
They must be completely submerged in the solution for 7 to 10 days.
After curing, they are placed in cold water for about 12 hours and
then hung up to drain and dry for another 12 hours. They are
then smoked.
FISH
FIG. 188. Do not let fish lie on the grass. Bleed it as soon as caught by pulling
out the gills completely. Then follow proper procedure to preserve it while
fishing.
.
To one cup of fine table salt add one tablespoon of pepper. Mix
thoroughly and rub the belly cavity well, also the flesh, at the ratio
of about one tablespoon to % pound of jish, sprinkling a small
amount on the skin side.
Place the fish in a clean basket or box. A loose packing of green
leaves around the fish has been found effective in inland regions.
Cover the container with several thicknesses of burlap. Do not let
the burlap rest on the fish but keep an air space a few inches above
them. Keep the cloth well moistened with water, since evaporation
of moisture lowers the temperature in the container. Corned in this
manner, fish will remain in good condition for at least 24 hours
when ice is not available. When rinsed thoroughly in clean, fresh
water these fish are ready for cooking in any manner desired. If
rolled in salt and packed with as much of it as will cling to them,
FISH 217
the fish will keep for about 10 days. Before they are cooked, be sure
to freshen them for about 10 hours in one or two changes of fresh,
cold water.
Almost any variety of fish may be cured at home. As a rule, the
so-called "lean" species are salted more readily; salt brine does not
penetrate as rapidly in "fat" fish.
Fresh-water fishes usually salted are lake trout, whitefish, lake
herring, blue pike, yellow pike, catfish, perch, and pickerel. Others
that may be salted at home are sheepshead, carp, suckers, buffalo
fish, river herring (alewife), eels-in fact, almost any fish of satis-
factory size.
Salt-water fishes, commonly salted at home, are cod, hake, cusk,
pollock, bluefish, sea trout, channel bass, rock or striped bass,
salmon, shad, sea bass, rockfish, mackerel, sea herring, and Florida
mullet.
Brine-Curing. Brine-curing fish at home requires stoneware
crocks, tight fitting covers, tubs or cut-down barrels, and a few sharp
knives. A family curing less than 50 pounds of fish needs only a
sharp knife and two 2-gallon stoneware crocks. Stoneware crocks
are preferable because there is litt!e danger of leakage, foreign
flavors are not absorbed by the container walls, and the crocks may
be used later for other purposes.
Use only pure, clean salt of fairly fine grain, "three-quarters"
ground or "dairy fine." Finely ground salt is preferable because it
forms into brine and penetrates the flesh more rapidly.
The method of curing, in general, is the same for all varieties.
Small fish are split down the back so as to lie out flat in one piece
with the belly not cut through. Cut just under the backbone and
then score the flesh with the point of a knife at intervals about one
inch apart. Clean the fish thoroughly so no trace of blood or in-
testinal contents remain, and remove the gills from the split head.
Large fish are split into fillets and the backbone is removed. The
collarbone just below the gills is not cut away. If this is done the
fish is damaged in handling and, if it is smoked, the pieces will drop
from the hangers in the smokehouse, because the skin and flesh will
not hold the weight unless the collarbone is there to give it support.
The flesh of the large pieces or filets is scored on the inside longi-
tudinally to a depth about Y2 inch at intervals, I or 2 inches apart.
These cuts should not be so deep that they penetrate the skin side.
Cut the pieces long enough to lie flat on the bottom of the con-
tainer.
Thick-skinned, spiny-finned fish with large scales, such as carp,
suckers, buffalo, black bass, channel bass, and catfish, should be
218 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
skinned and the fins removed. This is done by making a deep cut
along each side of the fin and pulling it by hand from its base.
All fish to be brined are washed thoroughly in fresh water, after
which they are soaked for 30 minutes to 1 hour in a brine made in
the proportion of Y2 cup of salt to 1 gallon of water. This removes
the diffused blood from the flesh and cuts away slime fwm the skin.
After brining, the fish are drained for 5 or 10 minutes.
Obtain a shallow wooden box about 2 feet square with sides 6
inches high. Fill it with dry salt. Scatter a thin layer of salt on the
bottom of the crock or keg in which the fish are to be salted. Dredge
each piece of fish with salt, and rub salt into the places where the
flesh is scored. Pick up the fish with as much salt as will cling to it
and pack in the container, skin side down. Arrange the pieces so
an even layer will result.
With large fish, this is best done if the thick side, usually the one
with the backbone, is placed next to the wall of the container. An
extra piece may be placed in the middle, if needed. Pieces should
overlap each other as little as possible. Scatter a thin layer of salt
over .the layer of fish, and arrange the next layer of fish in place at
right angles to the preceding layer.
Small fish, such as spots, butterfish, and croakers, are packed in
a ring with the tip of the head touching the walls of the container.
It will be necessary to lay one or two fish across the center to keep
the layer level. Stagger successive layers so that each fish rests on
two fish of the layer below. Scatter salt between each layer. The
top layer of fish, both large and small, should be packed skin side up.
FIG. 189. Methods of packing large fish (left) and small fish (right) in container
for brine-salting.
",~ .,
,>f!...'(' -"l!'.
FISH 219
The amount of salt used, says the U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service,
depends on the purity and grain of the salt (less is required, for
example, if the salt is of high purity and small grain), the season of
the year (more salt is required in warm weather), size and fatness
(large, thick, or fat fish require more salt), and probably length of
preservation. The proportion of salt used runs from Y4 to Ya of
the total weight of the fish. A general rule is to use one part salt
to three parts fish. In salting, be careful not to exceed the proper
proportion-an excess will "burn" the fish, lowering the quality.
Place a loosely fitting wooden cover on the top layer of fish and
weight it down. Fair-sized rocks or bricks, previously well washed
and scrubbed, make good weights. The fish will make its own brine.
Small fish, like spots or croakers, may be "struck through" or com-
pletely brine-cured in 48 hours; thicker, larger, fatter fish will re-
quire a week or 10 days. At the end of this time, with the exception
of a few varieties, the fish are removed, scrubbed in a fresh saturated
brine with a stiff bristle brush, then repacked with a very light scat-
tering of salt between layers. Layers must be pressed down. Fill the
container with a fresh saturated salt brine and store the container
in a cool, dark place. After three months, or at the first sign of
fermentation-especially if the weather is warm-change the brine
again. Brine-cured fish generally keep longer, but should not be
expected to remain in good condition for more than nine months.
Dry-Salting. The dry-salt cure for fish is best adapted for warm
climates, but it is also used in northern areas as well. This method
is applied successfully to nearly all fish, although fatty fish are more
difficult to cure and they keep a shorter time. As a rule, dry-salted
fish keep longer than those cured by the brine method.
The home curing of cod, haddock, cusk, hake, and pollock, also
to most large nonfatty fish, is given here.
The fish are bled by cutting the throat and pulling out the gills
as soon as caught. \l\Then the fish reach shore they must be thor-
oughly washed. The head is cut off, but the "lugs" (hard, bony collar
plates) must remain. If not, the fish will separate during curing or
afterward in handling. Cut down the left side of the backbone, with
the knife edge at a slight downward slant, so that it scrapes the back-
bone. If the knife blade is held level, much flesh is left on the back-
bone. Continue the cut down to the tail so that the upper side is
removed in one piece. Then insert the edge of the knife blade just
below the end of the backbone at a slight upward angle, and cut
down to the tail. The fish is now separated into two sides of fillets.
If the cutting is well done, the sides are perfectly smooth, with
practically no flesh left on the backbone.
220 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
Another method, especially adapted to smaller fish (from 2 to 5
pounds) is to cut down the middle of the belly to the vent (anal
opening). Lay the fish on the edge of the table so that the head
overhangs. Grasp the head and give a quick downward jerk, which
removes the head more quickly and easily than by cutting. With the
fish lying on its side, cut above the backbone from neck to tail hold-
ing the knife horizontal and working from the belly side. This cut
must not be too deep. It must not go through the back skin. Next,
cut the backbone below the vent (leaving about one-fifth of tail
section as a hinge). Cut forward just below the backbone to the
head, thus removing it. Make another cut below the remaining
section of backbone in the tail section, so that salt may penetrate.
The fish should now lie open in one piece.
After the fish is split, scrub the inside of the belly cavity with a
piece of coarse sacking to remove the black skin and to clean away
blood, membranes, and bits of viscera. Place the fish in a tub of
water; wash, and brush thoroughly with a stiff bristle brush. Only
pure, fresh drinking water should be used. Brine made in the pro-
portion of 1 cup salt to 1 gallon water is often preferable to plain
water. Afterward, drain the fish to remove surplus moisture.
Dredge the fish in a box of salt as in brine-salting. Stack the
fish in rows on the floor, choosing a place where the brine formed
will run a way to a drain. First, scatter a thin layer of salt on the
place where the fish are to be stacked, and arrange them in place
by alternating heads and tails. Scatter a little salt between the layers
of fish. Fish are piled flesh side up, except for the last layer which
is piled skin side up. The average amount of salt used is 1 pound
to each 4 pounds of fish.
The fish are taken out of salt after 48 hours to one week, depend-
ing upon the size of the fish and the weather. In damp or stormy
weather, they are allowed to remain in the salt, as it is useless to
attempt drying. Less time is required for salting in warm weather.
When the fish are ready for drying, they should be scrubbed in
brine to remove all excess salt and dirt. No traces of salt should be
visible on the surface. After draining 15 to 20 minutes, the fish are
ready for the drying racks. These are frames of wood covered with
chicken wire and standing on legs about 4 feet high. A slat top of
thin poles or laths may be substituted for wire mesh, if a 2-inch
space is left between laths. The drying racks must be placed on dry
ground, preferably covered with gravel.
Oxidation, or rusting of the fish, occurs mostly readily if they are
dried in direct sunlight. If the fish are kept shaded in a breezy
FISH 221
location, they will dry well with a clear color. For this reason, dry-
ing is best done in the shade under an open-walled shed ventilated
by air currents. If only a few fish are being dried, they may be hung
under overhanging eaves, or from the rafters of a shed or barn where
there is good cross-ventilation.
FIG. 192. Sheefish drying on racks beside Eskimo home during late summer,
Kotzebue, Alaska.
A smoke smudge under the drying racks may De necessary, for the
first day at least, to prevent the flies from "blowing' the fish. The
smudge should be made of green wood, or a wood fire smothered by
green branches. Resinous woods such as pine or fir must not be
used. The time required for drying depends upon weather condi-
tions, the size of the fish, and the length of preservation desired.
Fairly large cod, haddock, hake, or pollock must receive 60 hours of
air drying-about six good days of drying. The usual test to deter-
mine sufficiency of drying is to press the thick part of the flesh be-
tween thumb and forefinger; if no impression can be made, the fish
are sufficiently dried.
The cured fish are wrapped in waxed paper, packed in a thin
wooden box, tightly covered, and stored in a cool, dry place. At the
first signs of rust, mold, or reddening, scrub the fish off in a salt
brine and dry in the air for a day or two.
PICKLING 22~
" . ._. , ..
'" ..
FIG. 193. Shrimp sun-drying on platform.
PICKLING
Pickled Tongue 1
beef tongue or 2 calf tongues Salt
Vinegar to cover 6 whole peppercorns
Juice of one lemon 2 or 3 tablespoons sugar
2 onions ~ cup seeded raisins
6 whole cloves I Y2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Cover the tongue with vinegar and soak for 24 hours. Drain and
cover with water, adding lemon juice, sliced onions, cloves, cin-
namon, salt and pepper. Cook slowly until tender, about 1 hour
per pound. Skin and slice while warm. Brown the sugar. Strain
liquid from tongue, adding 2 cups of liquid to sugar. Add raisins
and then thicken the sauce with the flour that has been stirred until
smooth with a small amount of cold water. Cook the sauce a few
minutes, stirring frequently; add tongue and let simmer until
thoroughly heated in sauce.
Probably the first method used to preserve meat and fish was dry-
ing in the wind and sun, sometimes with smoke to intimidate the
flies. Thus treated, fish and meat became an article of commerce
and of food for man and beast; could be stored for years if kept
dry; were portable, durable, nourishing; and could be eaten with or
without boiling.
This method of preserving meat and fish on the North American
continent was developed by the Indians, and the white man learned
it from these aborigines.
Not only do times change but names change with it. Dried meat
was desiccated meat in World War I and dehydrated meat during
World War II. This dried meat, a concentrated protein material, is
nutritious, palatable, and easily stored for months at ordinary at-
mospheric temperatures. It was developed to meet an emergency
and to save refrigel-ation facilities and tin-plate cans.
Char qui from the French also means dried meat. Biltong is a
Dutch South African term for strips of sun-dried meat of antelope,
buffalo, and other animals. "Jerky" or jerked beef is the name given
by our pioneers to meat dried in this manner.
Pemmican. This is the Cree Indian word for meat prepared in
such a way as to contain the greatest amount of nourishment in the
most compact form. The Indians made it of lean parts of meat-
deer, antelope, and buffalo-dried in the sun and pounded or
shredded and mixed into a paste with melted fat. They flavored it
with acid berries. If kept dry, it would keep for an indefinite time
and is thus particularly serviceable in Arctic and other explorations.
Pemmican is not only used as an emergency ration by explorers,
but hunters, canoers, and hikers rely upon it. Here is how it is
made.
Cut the lean meat of venison or beef into very thin slices. Hang
them in the sun where flies and dirt cannot contaminate them and
allow them to dry thoroughly. The strips may also be dried by sus-
pending them over a low fire made of hickory or ash wood until
they become brittle. The drying process may require a few hours
or a day depending on the humidity.
DRYING MEAT AND FISH 229
Pound or grind the dry strips of meat into a coarse powder and
work in enough hot fat to make a thick dough. Dried fruits such as
raisins, apricots, or prunes may be pounded or ground with the
meat before the fat is added.
Form the pemmican into one or more loaves and enclose it in a
canvas or muslin casing so that it resembles an old-fashioned plum
pudding. Dip the loaf into melted paraffin to seal the wrapping
and make it watertight, and then store it in a dry place.
Jerked Beef (dried beef). This was originally made by cutting
beef into long, thin strips dried in the air, without having been
previously immersed in brine. Later on it became the custom to
cure the meat lightly in brine before it was air-dried. The word
"jerked" comes from the Spanish-American clzarqui.
Jerked Venison. Nearly every hunter has his own ideas about
making "jerky." It is customary to cut the meat into strips 2 to 3
inches thick. They are then dipped into boiling hot brine. The
meat is placed on a smoking rack built of sticks. A fire is made with
green maple or other hardwood and, when the fire burns low, the
rack with the meat on it is placed over the fire and the meat is
thoroughly seared. The fire should not be permitted to blaze, only
to smoke, or the meat will be cooked instead of jerked. Flies will
not bother this meat. After it is smoked the meat should be dried
in the sun as much as possible.
Dried Beef. Our modern dried beef, sometimes called chipped
beef, is generally made from the round. The three muscles com-
prising this portion of the beef are split lengthwise along the natural
seams. This is done so that the muscle fibers may be cut crosswise
when the dried beef is sliced for table use. The larger muscle may
be split farther in order to have more uniform size of pieces. The
inside of the thigh is considered the choicest piece because it is
generally more tender. Cure the meat in the same manner as that
described for corned beef (page 209) with the exception of adding
an additional pound of sugar per 100 pounds of meat. Allow the
meat to cure about 2 days for each pound of weight of the pieces.
After being removed from the brine, drained and dried, it is ready
for the smokehouse.
The drier the climate in general, the more easily can meats be
dried. In arid regions, good dried meat can be made by exposing it
fresh (if protected from flies and dirt) to the air.
Fish. Preserving fish solely by drying in the open is not practiced
extensively in this country. This is because the weather is not suit-
able in many localities and because the flesh of many species avail-
230 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
able to the noncommercial fisherman has a fat content of 5 per cent
or more. Therefore it is difficult to preserve fish by air-drying alone.
Another reason is that a combination of salting and drying requires
much less time and skill than air-drying alone. However, the In-
dians in Alaska and Canada still air-dry fish to some extent. In the
North Pacific and Atlantic States (and for shrimp drying, in the
Gulf of Mexico area), air-drying offers some possibilities for those
desiring to preserve fish at home.
Rackling. This product was introduced to this country by Scan-
dinavian fishermen who prepare it for home use. Large flounder,
halibut, pollock, cusk, hake, rock cod, or similar fish with a fat
content of about 2 per cent are suitable. The head is removed, leav-
ing the collarbone. The fish is split into two sides and the back-
bone removed. Then the sides are cut in long, narrow strips about
an inch in width, left joined together at the collarbone. They are
washed thoroughly so that all traces of blood are removed and then
soaked in saturated salt brine for 1 hour. They are hung out to
dry, preferably in a shady place where they will not be exposed to
direct sunlight. Drying requires from I to 2 weeks. When wanted
for use, the rackling may be soaked for a few hours, and steamed
and made into fish cakes, fish loaf, or creamed fish. It is most often
eaten like jerked meat, however, without any preliminary prepara-
tion.
Dried Shrimp. Small shrimp not suitable for the commercial
market, or large catches which cannot be used fresh, may be dried
at home. The shrimp are first washed thoroughly, picking out all
bits of seaweed and other foreign material, and allowed to drain.
Prepare salt brine in the proportions of Y2 cup of salt to one quart
of water. Bring to a boil, put in the whole washed shrimp. Allow
them to boil for about 10 minutes, counting the time from the mo-
ment when the brine begins to boil after the shrimp have been
added. When the meat has separated from the shell it is cooked,
which may be determined by breaking open a shrimp. Spread the
boiled shrimp in a thin layer to dry in the sun. A slanting shed
roof makes an excellent drying platform. The layer of shrimp must
not be more than I inch thick. Turn them at half-hour intervals
during the first day of drying, so that all parts of the layer will be
equally dried. The shrimp are gathered at night and stored in a
dry, well-ventilated place. This must also be done at the first sign
of rain. Do not place a covering directly on the shrimp or they will
start to heat and sour.
SMOKING MEAT AND FISH 231
Drying requires about 3 days if the weather is good, and longer
if drying conditions are unfavorable. When the shrimp are
thoroughly dry and hard, place them in a sack. Beat the sack with
a piece of board. This separates the shells from the meats. Then
take a wooden-frame, wire-mesh screen with ~ inch mesh and set
it up at an angle. Shovel the mixture of meats and shells against
the screen as in sifting sand. The bits of shell and waste fall
through, while the meats roll down to the bottom of the screen.
From 100 pounds of green shrimp, 12 or 13 pounds of dry shrimp
should be obtained, together with an equal amount of shell. The
dried shrimp meat may be soaked in water for a few hours, wiped
dry, rolled in butter or in oil, and fried. They are also excellent in
curries, gumbos, and jambalayas. When the dried meats are ground
and mixed with butter and spices, they make an excellent sandwich
spread. The dried meats are also used with beverages as appetizers.
FIG. 194. Barrel smokehouse. Smokepipe, or tile if available, could be used for
the flue.
\ "
I
r';'
"
SMOKING MEAT AND FISH 233
vide effective regulation of the air flow past the meat. Movable.
two-by-fours across the house for hanging the meat enable the oper-
ator to adjust the hangers to the size of the pieces of meat being
smoked. Two or more tiers of meat can be hung in the house. A
taller house, holding four more tiers of meat, can be served by the
same fire pit.
The cost of the lumber and other materials for this 6-by-6 by
8-foot smokehouse will be about $65 if they must be bought new. If
built of commercial concrete blocks the cost will be about $85.
These prices may range widely in different localities. Masonry con-
struction reduces the fire hazard. Local stone which does not require
much dressing or skill for shaping the pieces can be used at low
cash cost. Logs are satisfactory if well fitted and chinked.
The frame type of smokehouse should not be located nearer than
. 50 feet to any other buildings.
A solid frost-proof foundation is essential. A concrete floor is
desirable, as it can be made rat-proof and is more easily cleaned
than wood.
The picnic-type firebox with a removable cover can also be used
for cooking meals out-of-doors. Broiled and barbecued dishes can
be prepared on this outside fireplace. The smoke pipe leading to
the house must be plugged when the firebox is used as a stove or
grill. A simple earthen pit at the end of the flue could be used in-
stead of the concrete or brick firebox shown. Also a small wood-
burning stove could be connected with the smoke pipe. In all cases,
it is desirable to slope the pipe slightly upward toward the outlet
in the smokehouse and to cover it with earth or masonry. This
covering will hold the heat and, in connection with the slope, give
a more positive draft.
Ventilators should be built into the gables as shown in the draw-
ings; a ventilator built in the roof is difficult to keep watertight.
Meat can be crowded into a smokehouse, the only rule being
that no piece touch another or the wall. The space required varies
with the weight of the cut, but 12 inches in width both ways and 2
feet in height for each piece is a fair basis for estimating the capac;ty
of the house. Movable rails and staggered hooks will make it pos-
sible to adapt the equipment to the quantity of meat to be smoked.
Remember that well-built, fly-tight smokehouses are not safe
places to store unbagged smoked meat. Ultimately flies or fly eggs
will get in, either on a piece of meat or when the door is opened.
Smokehouses are used satisfactorily for storing meat if each piece is
properly wrapped, bagged and hung separately, provided it is fly-
proof and, perhaps, thief-proof.
234 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
o..,
.1
Proper Wood. Woods used for smoking depend much upon the
locality and availability. In order of preference for smoking are
hickory, maple, birch, ash, oak, dried apple wood, and dry willow.
Green hickory wood and sawdust are the standard fuels for smoking
meat. Where timber is scarce corncobs may be used. Soft or resinous
wood should not be used, for it will blacken the meat and give it
an undesirable flavor. If paper or pine shavings are used to kindle
the green hardwood, be sure that all have been completely burned
or removed from the fire before the smokehouse door is closed. It is
better, however, to start the fire with the used woods and not with
paper or shavings from soft woods, because the ashes of these prod-
ucts rise and stick to the meat.
; . (
i'
SMOKING MEAT AND FISH 237
All pieces to be smoked should be strung and scrubbed with
warm water to remove the excess salt and grease. Hams and shoul-
ders should be strung through the shank. Unless a regular stringing
needle is at hand, make an opening through the shank with the
narrow blade of the boning knife and pull a stout string through
with a wire loop. A wooden or wire skewer is usually run through
the flank end of the bacon strip and the string inserted just below
it. In the case of bacon, it is better to insert two loops just off the
center so that the piece hangs smoothly without wrinkling. If
wrinkling is permitted, the meat is hard to slice and some waste
will occur.
FIG. 197. Well-trimmed and smoked ham, bacon and shoulder. It pays to trim
cuts smoothly and evenly.
'_
'./
SMOKING MEAT AND FISH 243
tonseed) while warm. This is sometimes done just after finishing
the cold-smoking part of the process. The oil forms a light pro-
tective coating, but the chief value of this treatment is to make the
appearance more attractive. Another method is to dip the fish in
melted paraffin; thus, a more effective protective coating is formed,
but the fish must be handled carefully as the coating is brittle. The
paraffin must be peeled off when preparing the fish for the table.
Each fish should be wrapped in waxed paper and stored in a cool,
dry place. Spoilage occurs more rapidly if the fish are stored in a
warm place or under damp and cold conditions.
Cold-Smoking. Small fish, such as sea herring, alewives (river
herring), spots, or butter fish may be cold-smoked in the round
(without cleaning), but they should be gibbed. Gibbing consists of
making a small cut just below the gills and pulling out the gills,
he.Ht, and liver, leaving the belly uncut. Fish larger than one pound
should be split along the back to lie flat in a single piece, leaving
the belly portion uncut. All traces of blood, black skin, and viscera
must be removed, paying special attention to the area just under the
backbone. The head does not need to be removed. If the head is
cut off, the hard bony plate just below the gills is allowed to remain,
as it will be needed to carry the weight when the fish are in the
smokehouse.
Next wash the fish thoroughly, whether gibbed or split, and place
them in a brine made in the proportion of I cup of salt to 1 gallon
of water. They should be left in the brine at least 30 minutes to
soak out blood diffused through the flesh. At the end of this time
rinse in fresh water to remove surplus moisture, and drain for a
few minutes.
Each fish is dropped singly into a shallow box of fine salt and
dredged thoroughly. The fish is picked up with as much salt as will
cling to it, and packed in even layers in a box or tub. A small
amount of salt may be scattered between each layer. The fish are
left in salt from 1 to 12 hours, depending upon the weather, size of
fish, fatness, length of time for which preservation is desired, and
whether the fish are round or split.
When the fish are taken out of the salt, they should be rinsed
thoroughly. All visible particles of salt or other waste should be
lCrubbed off. They are hung to dry in the shade as described in
dry-salting (page 220) of fish. An electric fan may be used if there is
not enough breeze. The chicken-wire drying racks used in dry-salt-
ing may be utilized if they are not exposed to direct sunlight. The
fish will dry on both sides but the impression of the chicken wire
244 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
detracts from its appearance. The fish is dried until a thin skin,
or pellicle, is formed on the surface. This should take about 3 hours
under average conditions. If smoking is begun while the fish are
still moist, the time required is longer, the color will not be as desir-
able, the fish will not have as good a surface, and will steam and
soften in smoking.
Start a low, smoldering fire an hour or two before the fish are
hung in the smokehouse. It must not give off too much smoke dur-
ing the first 8 or 12 hours if the entire cure is 24 hours, or for the
first 24 hours if the cure is longer. The temperature in the smoke-
house should not be higher than 90°F. in California or the southern
states, or 70°F. in the northern states. If available, a thermometer
should be used in controlling smokehouse temperature; if not, a rule-
of-thumb test is to insert a hand in the smokehouse and if the air
feels distinctly warm, the temperature is too high.
At the end of the first smoking process, a dense smoke may be
built up and maintained for the balance of the cure. If the fish are
to be kept for 2 weeks, they should be smoked for 24 hours, or for
a longer time. Smoking may require 5 days or even more. Hard-
smoked or red herring may require 3 or 4 weeks.
Keep the fire low and steady; if hardwood sawdust is not avail-
able, use chips and bark; they serve almost as well. The fire must
not be allowed to die out at night. Do not build it up before leav-
ing, as this will create too much heat. It must be tended regularly
during the night.
Cured smoked meats are an important part of the home food sup-
ply; consequently it is essential to protect and store them properly
so they are in the best condition for future use.
The objects sought in storing are protection from insects, control
of molds, and the prevention of excessive drying and rancidity. Ex-
cessive humidity and lack of ventilation are conducive to molding.
Rancidity is attributable mainly to light. Lack of protection per-
mits insect infestation.
After the smoked meat has cooled, it is ready to be wrapped and
stored. At this time, farmers, in particular, rub ground black pepper
mixed with a little red pepper on the meat to add flavor. The meat
is then well wrapped in parchment paper and put into muslin bags.
The paper wrapping should be heavy enough to keep the fat from
soaking the bottom of the bag. The top of the bag should be folded
over and tied securely, a loop for hanging the meat being made in
the outside tie string. Do not hang the meat by the string that is
fastened to the meat as insects may enter the package along this
246 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
string. As a further protection against insects, the U. S. Department
of Agriculture recommends painting each bag or sack with yellow
wash before storing for future use. In preparing the yellow wash
for 100 pounds of hams or bacon, use the following: 3 pounds of
barium sulphate, I Y4 ounces yellow ocher, I ounce of glue (dry),
and 6 ounces of flour.
Fill a pail half full of water and mix in the flour, breaking up
all the lumps thoroughly. Mix the ocher in a quart of water in a
separate vessel, add the glue, and pour them into the flour-and-water
mixture. Bring this mixture to a boil and add the barium sulphate
slowly, stirring constantly. Make the wash the day before it is re-
quired. Stir it frequently while using it and apply it with a brush.
Lime, clay, flour, or a similar substance mixed with water to a
rather thick consistency may also be used to paint the bags.
The date for killing, curing, and smoking should be planned, if
possible, so that the smoked meat can be bagged or put in an insect-
proof place before the flies appear in the spring. Careful watch
should be kept for insect infestation throughout the storage period.
If the meat has been properly cured and smoked, it should store
satisfactorily in a dry, dark, cool, well-ventilated place. Hams and
shoulders stored in this manner will keep a year or longer. Storing
cured smoked meats, especially hams, for long periods also develops
a product that has unique characteristics and is highly regarded for
its culinary value. During this period significant changes take place,
which develop a most pleasurable taste sensation. With the excep-
tion of a few special kinds, such as Virginia and Westphalia hams
which are improved by one or two years' keeping, the best ham and
bacon, other things being equal, are those which are freshest cured
and smoked.
Generally, mold will appear on "naked" or unwrapped hams and
bacons; it is not a sign of poor quality or deterioration. In humid
climates, mold may develop very rapidly on the meat but usually
can be rubbed or trimmed off without serious loss. A light mold
may be easily removed by rubbing with a cloth slightly moistened
with sweet oil and lard. This application is sometimes desirable
even when no mold appears, as it tends to prevent mold formation
and gives the meat a bright, fresh appearance. Meat should be
watched closely for evidence of mold penetration into the pieces.
Once the mold works in between the muscles it injures the flavor.
The shrinkage of dry-cured hams and shoulders just after being
smoked will range from 8 to 15 per cent of the fresh weight. Brine-
cured hams and shoulders will shrink from 3 to 8 per cent. The
shrinkage of either may run from 15 to 30 per cent at the end of
several months' storage.
HOME CANNING 247
Bacon does not store as well as hams and shoulders and is usually
most appetizing when freshly cured and smoked.
HOME CANNING
FIG. 201. Canning meat in large pieces. Select cuts commonly used for roasts,
steaks, or chops. Trim away most of the fat without unduly slashing the lean.
Too much fat makes meat hard to process.
FIG. 202. Cut meat in can-length strips, so that grain of the meat runs the
length of the can. Use small pieces and bits to fill space, or use them for stew
meat, ground meat, or soup. Fill cans to top with strips of meat.
1
252 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
Fig. 203. Insert thermometer (0 cemer ot can. Meat is ready when temperature
at center of can is 170 0 F. If no thermometer is available, cook meat until
medium done, auollt 50 minutes.
Fig. 204. Seal cans immediately, but follow directions that came with your sealer ..
HOME CANNING 253
.'fer
FIG. 205. Remove cans with tongs or thick cloth and cool at once in clean, cold
water-preferably running water-until cans are lukewarm.
FIG. 206. Dry cans quickly to prevent rust. Stagger them as you stack the cans,
to hasten cooling.
254 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
(page 249); seal the tin cans. Process at once in the steam-pressure
canner at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.)
Pint jars .............. 75 min. No. 2 cans ............. 65 min.
Quart jars ............ 90 min. No. 2V2 and No.3 cans. 90 min.
Hot Pack. Beef, veal, pork, lamb, and venison may be seared
before canning. The time required to sear these meats depends
upon their size and thickness. Steaks 2 inches thick will take about
15 minutes; other pieces require more or less time in proportion
to their thickness. Roasts, meat loaves, sausage patties, steaks, and
chops should be seared without flour until they are light brown on
the surface and heated through thoroughly. Floured meat causes a
thick, hard crust which retards heat penetration and often gives the
meat a charred, inferior flavor. Lamb and mutton should have
most of the fat removed and can be seared in bacon drippings, lard,
or butter. Care should be taken not to brown the meat too much
or burn it. Additional browning can be done when the meat is
reheated for serving.
Heat the fat in a roasting pan or skillet and sear meat quickly on
all sides to prevent the loss of juice during cooking. Add salt, pep-
per, and other seasoning to taste. Add boiling water to the fat in
the pan. Turn and baste the meat frequently until nicely browned
and heated through. Pack the hot meat into the containers solidly.
Leave above I inch above meat for head space in glass jars; V2 inch
in tin cans. Add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of liquid from the searing
pan. Again leave I inch at the top of glass jars for head space; fill
tin cans to the top. Work out the air bubbles with a knife and add
more liquid, if necessary, to cover the meat. Adjust the lids on glass
jars and seal tin cans. Process at once in the steam-pressure cooker
at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.)
Pint jars .............. 75 min. No.2 cans ............ 65 min.
Quart jars ............ 90 min. No. 2V2 and No.3 cans. 90 min.
Meat may also be boiled before canning. Cut the raw meat into
serving portions. Put it into a stew pot and "0arely cover with boil-
ing water. Simmer for 10 or 15 minutes until completely heated
through. Do not use any more water than necessary. All that is
required is a sufficient quantity with the meat to fill the containers.
It is not necessary to cook the meat tender, as the canning process
will complete the cooking.
Pack the meat firmly into the cans and fill up all the spaces be-
tween the meat with the liquid in which the meat was boiled. Add
seasoning and seal at once. Then process in the steam-pressure can-
ner as previously given for hot pack.
HOME CANNING 255
Ground meat may be packed either by the raw or hot process.
Small pieces of clean, fresh, cold lean meat can be ground. Do not
add any lump of fat in grinding. If desired, add 1 level teaspoon of
salt per pound of ground meat and mix thoroughly.
For raw pack, fill the tin cans with the ground meat, level with
the top. It is difficult to get the canned ground meat out of glass
jars when packed this way. Place the open cans in a large vessel
with water about 2 inches below the can rim. Cover the vessel and
heat at slow boil until meat in all the cans is steaming hot and
medium done. This requires about 75 minutes or until center of
the can registers 170°F. Press the meat down into the cans about
Y2 inch below the rim. Seal the tin cans and process at once in the
steam-pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.).
No.2 cans ............... 100 min.
No. 2Y2 and No.3 cans ... 135 min.
Prepare fresh sausage as directed on page 273, or use any tested
sausage recipe, but omit seasoning, except salt and pepper. Sage and
other herbs give the meat a bitter taste after processing. Shape the
sausage meat into fairly thin cakes that can be packed in the con-
tainers without breaking. Put the cakes in a baking pan and pre-
cook them in the oven until medium done. Pack hot. Proceed as
directed for ground meat, hot packed.
Canning Corned Beef. After corned beef is cured it can be pre-
pared for canning. Wash the meat and cut into pieces suited for
packing. Place the pieces of corned beef in a kettle, cover with cold
water, and bring slowly to a boil. If the broth tastes very salty, drain
and cover the meat with fresh water and parboil again. Pack
the pieces of hot meat in glass jars and leave about 1 inch above the
meat for head space; Y2 inch in tin cans. Cover the meat with the
hot broth or hot water, using about Y2 to % cup for each quart
container. Leave 1 inch for head space in jars and fill the cans to
the top. Then work out all the air bubbles with a knife and add
more liquid, if needed, to cover the meat. Be sure to leave 1 inch
head space in jars and fill cans to the top. Adjust the lids on jars
(page 249); seal tin cans. Process at once in the steam-pressure
canner at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.).
Pint jars .............. 75 min. No. 2 cans ............. 65 min.
Quart jars ............ 90 min. No. 2Y2 and No.3 cans.90min.
Many excellent recipes for canning meats, such as beef-vegetable
stew, pork and beans with sauce, baked beans with pork, and many
256 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
others including soup stock, are given in Home and Garden Bulletin
No.6, Home Canning of Meat, U. S. Department of Agriculture,
Washington, D. C.
Poultry. Chicken, turkey, and other domestic and wild fowl, as
as well as rabbit, squirrel, muskrat, and ground hog, are all canned
successfully at home. Canning provides a good way to use the cock-
erels and nonlaying hens, as well as stewing chickens. The direc-
tions for killing and plucking fowl have been given previously in
Chapter XI. The plucked bird is washed and wiped immediately
with a damp cloth. Do not soak it in water. Instead of drawing
the bird, cut away the edible portions from the carcass.
With a sharp knife, cut off the wings and the legs at the joint
next to the body. Pulling on the wing or the leg while cutting will
aid in disjointing the bird. Turn the bird on its side and make a
cut beginning at the end of the breastbone along the side on a line
with the ends of the ribs. Do not make the cut so deep as to cut
into the body cavity and puncture the entrails. Turn the bird over
and cut the other side in a similar manner. Now lay the bird on
its back and break the backbone. Cut around the vent and remove
the entrails. Save the giblets. Carefully remove the gall bladder
from the liver without breaking it or the meat will get contaminated
and taste bitter. Remove lungs and kidneys, also cut out the oil
sack in the tail head. Discard these with the entrails. To remove the
breast meat from the bone, cut straight down between the wishbone
and the point of breast. Leave the meat attached to the breastbone.
Now remove the breast meat from the center bone by cutting down
the side of the breast. Leave the bone in the other meaty pieces.
Cut the legs into drumsticks and second joints. Saw or chop drum-
sticks off short, if desired. As you cut, trim off the large lumps of
fat. Sort the pieces into three piles-meaty pieces, bony pieces, and
giblets. The bony pieces are used to make broth which will be
needed later. Cover these pieces with water and simmer until the
meat is tender.
Drain broth into a bowl and skim off the fat. Remove the meat
from the bones and, if desired, can as little pieces.
Hot Pack With Bone. Place the pieces of chicken to be canned
in a cooking pan and pour the hot broth or hot water over the meat.
The liquid should almost cover it. Cover the pot with a lid and
precook the meat. Stir or shake the pot occasionally so the meat
will heat and cook evenly. Cook until the meat is medium done,
or when cut, shows no pink color at the center of the pieces.
HOME CANNING 257
If salt is desired, put level measure into clean empty containers:
Yz teaspoonful in pint jar or No.2 can; % teaspoonful in No. 2Yz
can; I teaspoonful in quart jar or No.3 can. Pack the second joints
and drumsticks with the skin next to the glass or tin. Fit the breast
meat into the center and the smaller pieces in vacant spaces where
needed. Leave about I inch above the meat for head space in the
glass jars and Yz inch in the tin cans. Cover the meat with the hot
broth and leave I inch for head space in the jars and fill the tin
cans to the top. Work out all the air bubbles with a knife and
then add more liquid to cover the meat if necessary. Be sure to
leave I-inch head space in the jars and fill the tin cans to the top.
Now adjust the lids on the glass jars (page 249) and seal the tin
cans. Process at once in the steam pressure canner at 10 pounds
pressure (240°F.).
Pint jars .............. 65 min. No.2 cans ............ 55 min.
Quart jars ............ 75 min. No. 2'if and No.3 cans. 75 min.
Hot Pack Without Bone. The procedure for this process is prac-
tically the same as for hot-packed poultry with bone, except the
bone is removed and the skin is left with the meat. Boning can be
done while the meat is raw or after precooking. Boned poultry
requires longer processing in the steam-pressure canner than poultry
with bone. Process bone poultry at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.).
Pint jars .............. 75 min. No. 2 cans ............ 65 min.
Quart jars ............ 90 min. No. 2Yz and No.3 cans.90 min.
Raw Pack, With Bone. Bone the fowl in the same manner as di-
rected for hot pack with bone. If salt is desired, use the quantity of
salt recommended; also pack the pieces of meat in the containers
in the same way. Now set the open jars or cans in a large vessel con-
taining warm water about 2 inches below the tops of the containers.
Cover the vessel and heat at a slow boil until the meat in all the
containers is steaming hot and medium done. This requires about
50 minutes in tin cans and 75 minutes in glass jars. If you have a
thermometer, place it in the center of the container, and when it
registers 170°F. the meat is heated sufficiently. Adjust the lids on
the glass jars (page 249) and seal the tin cans. Process at once in the
steam-pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.).
Pint jars .............. 65 min. No.2 cans ............. 55 min.
Quart jars ............ 75 min. No. 2Yz and No.3 cans. 75 min.
258 PRESERVING MEAoT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
FIG. 207. Pour hot btoth or hot water over the pieces of raw chicken in a cooking
pan, almost covering them.
FIG. 20~. Pack secorld joints and drumsticks with skin next to glass; breast in
center of jar; smaller pieces fitted in.
lOME CANNING 259
..
"
(G. 209. Put on glass lid so groove on top is at right angles to bail. Push long
wire bail over lid into groove. Leave short wire loose. Work quickly.
FIG. 210. Return each jar into canner as soon as it is filled and sealed. Be sure
that the proper amount of water is in the canner so it will not boil dry and be
damaged. Fasten lid securely.
260 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
Raw Pack, Without Bone. Proceed as directed for raw-packed
poultry with bone, but remove the bone and leave the skin with
the meat. Pack the pieces. Boned chicken requires longer process-
ing in the steam-pressure canner than chicken with bone, so process
at 10 pounds pressure (240°F.).
Pint jars .............. 75 min. No.2 cans ............ 65 min.
Quart jars ............ 90 min. No. 20? and No.3 cans. 90 min.
Giblets. Giblets, livers, hearts, and gizzards can be canned success-
fully, but it is good practice to can the livers separately. In this
way the taste will be preserved more perfectly. Gizzards and hearts
may be canned together. Chicken giblets with white turnips, chicken
liver saute, en brochette, chicken liver omelet, giblet soup, giblet
stew, and giblet pie are only a few tasty and unusual dishes, not to
mention dressings and gravies that can be made from these tasty
by-products.
Clean the giblets thoroughly and wash them well in cold water.
Put them in a tooking pot and cover with chicken broth or hot
water. Cover the pot with a lid and precook the giblets until
medium done. Shake the pot or stir frequently while cooking. If
salt is desired, put level measure into clean, empty containers. In
the average family, giblets are canned in such small quantities that
only pint jars and No. 2 cans are considered. Here again, if salt is
desired, put a level measure into the clean empty containers: I tea-
spoon in a pint jar or No.2 can. Pack the giblets hot and leave
about f inch above the meat in the glass jars for head space and Y2
inch in the tin Cans. Cover the giblets with hot broth or hot water.
Leave I inch fot head space in jars and fill the tin cans to the top.
Adjust the lids on the glass jars (page 249) and seal the tin cans.
Then process in the steam-pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure
(240°F.) .
Pint jars .............. 75 min. No.2 cans ............ 65 min.
Small Game. Wild rabbits constitute the largest, cheapest, and
most generally available supply of game in the United States. More
of them are taken each season by hunters and trappers than any
other species of game, large or small.
Abundant mOst everywhere, shot for sport or market, and free
from nonsale restrictions in many states, they form an important
item of food supply. Squirrels are one of the most widely hunted
of the smaller game animals. Rabbit and squirrel meat, if properly
prepared, is truly delicious. Woodchuck is also good eating, believe
HOME CANNING 261
it or not, as is opossum and raccoon. All this game meat, including
quail and pheasant can be prepared and canned the same way as
chicken, with or without bone. 1
Fishery Products. There is an ever-increasing number of home-
makers who find it advantageous to can seafoods. The information
given here is for the guidance of all who desire to can such foods
in the home. Methods that are simple, practical, and safe have
been developed for the more important varieties of seafoods that
are suitable for canning. Only by adhering to these methods and
applying uniform workmanship will the homemaker bring forth a
product that will be welcomed at the family table.
The equipment necessary is practically the same as that required
for canning meats. Here, again, it must be emphasized that under
no circumstances should any fishery product be canned unless a
pressure canner is used. It is impossible to process thoroughly by
any other means. Keep in mind also that the temperature-pressure-
time relationships recommended for processing each product must
be adhered to if a safe and satisfactory product is to be obtained.
A wide-mouth jar with a short neck, I pint capacity, is best for
most fishery products. The type with a glass top that fits down on
a rubber ring and is sealed with a wire clamp is satisfactory. There
is always a chance of some breakage occurring with the glass tops.
Jars of the self- or vacuum-sealing type, fitted with enameled metal
tops edged with an inner composition gasket, are regarded as pref-
erable to all other types. They are somewhat more expensive because
the caps are not reusable.
Tin cans are used extensively for home canning of fishery prod-
ucts, especially on the Pacific Coast. Best results are obtained if
such products are packed in plain tin cans. Enamel-lined cans are
not satisfactory. Cans have some disadvantages in comparison with
glass jars, but they also have points in their favor. Glass jars cost
more than tin cans, but the jars can be used over and over. The
reuse of tin cans is dangerous and should not be practiced. In con-
tinuous service, therefore, the jars will prove the more economical.
The advantages of tin cans are that the product cannot be light-
struck, as may happen with glass jars. Cans are lighter than glass
jars and easier to handle, and there is no danger of breakage. Final
choice depends upon the individual. Perhaps a large quantity of
glass jars are on hand, if so, it would not be economical to purchase
a supply of cans. If, however, no containers are on hand and the
1 Cooking Wild Game, by Frank G. Ashbrook and Edna N. Sater, Orange Judd
SPECIFICATIONS OF, AND USES FOR, THE VARIOUS SIZES OF STANDARD CANS 1
Capac- Con-
Common Can makers' Dimensions ity tents Recommended
designation Can size designation (inches) (fl. oz.) 2 (cups) use
Half-flat .. No. Y2 307 x 202\1 3~Gx2%2 9 1 Minced clams
and tuna-
style packs
Eastern
oyster ... No.1 211 x 400 2 1¥16 X 4 11 IYJ
Tall salmon No.1 tall 301 x 411 3¥16 x 41 ¥16 17 2
Pint . ..... No.2 307 x 409 3~6x4%6 21 2\1
Some fish are packed raw, with no preparation other than cutting
into container-length pieces. Others are precooked for a short time
before they are packed. Precooking removes excess moisture, thus
making the canned product firmer, makes packing easier, helps to
create a vacuum, and eliminates the exhausting. The time required
for processing is also shortened. Containers should be prepared as
previously directed under the various discussions of glass jars and
cans.
Raw-packed fish should be put into the containers flush with the
rim. The shrinkage occurring during processing will create sufficient
head space. If space is left below the rim, the space in the processed
can will be excessive and the container will be underfilled. This
will permit the contents to break up and become mushy when
moved. For precooked fish, the head space allowed is %6 of an inch
from the top.
Precooked fish packed into tin cans when hot and sealed immedi-
ately, need not be exhausted, because the shrinkage of the product
in cooling creates sufficient vacuum. Exhaust before sealing is nec-
essary only for cold-filled, raw-pack, or precooked fishery products
in tin containers. Products packed in glass, however, need not be
put through an exhaust process. Exhaust will occur during process-
ing, because the containers are not then completely sealed.
After the tin cans are exhausted and before they are put into the
pressure canner the covers must be sealed on the cans. The princi-
ple of operation is the same as that for meat canning, and the direc-
tions that accompany the can-closing machine should be carefully
and completely followed. This also applies to the steam-pressure
canner instructions on processing in both glass and tin containers.
All containers must be cooled as rapidly as practicable after
processing; otherwise the stored-up heat will continue the cooking
and the contents will be over-cooked. Plunge the tin cans into cold
264 PRESERVING MEAT, FOWL, AND SEAFOOD
running water, or standing water that is changed frequently. When
the cans feel only slightly warm they should be removed from the
water and wiped dry. It is also necessary to cool glass jars, but they
will break if subjected to cold water. Stack them where the air can
pass freely around them, but do not subject them to drafts while
cooling. When the jars are practically cool they should be washed
and dried.
The day after canning, examine the glass jars for leaks. Turn the
jar partly over in the hands to see if it drips liquid. Examine cans
for leaky seals. Also set out any can that buckles and breaks its
seam. Sometimes too little food in the can or too fast cooling causes
this type of leak. If any jar or can has leaked, either use the food
at once or can it all over again, using another container. Heat the
meat all through; then pack and process in the steam-pressure
canner for the same length of 'time as if the meat were fresh. In the
case of canned fishery products, if leakage or other defects are found,
make no attempt to reprocess the product.
I
I
\
,.
.•.
/
FIG. 211. Label plainly each good glass jar or tin can so you will know the con-
tents and date. If more than one lot was canned in a day, add the lot number.
..," ,
'f
VHEN CANNING IS COMPLETED 269
A good sturdy shelf, with ample space, should be provided for
ome canned foods. A good plan is to build the shelves so that the
us are only two deep and can be handled easily. The jars and cans
an be arranged on the shelf in the order in which they are to be
sed. This will simplify the planning of meals and distribute the
se of the canned food through the year.
Most canned fishery products require 2 or 3 months in storage to
ipen properly; that is, to allow sufficient time for complete absorp-
ion of the salt and other seasoning substances.
Using Home Canned Food. Before opening any jar or tin can,
xamine it thoroughly. Bulging covers or rubber rings, gas bubbles,
r leakage evident on a glass jar may indicate spoilage. Press the
nd of the tin can. Neither end should bulge or snap back, unless
J.e can was sprung when processed. Both ends should look fiat and
urved slightly inward. Seams should be tight and clean, with no
ign of leaks.
.j
XIV
~EAT PRODUCT~AND
BY -PRODUCTS
Cro most people the term "sausage" means ground pork. Really
it means any ground or chopped meat. Technically. sausage is a
mixture of minced meat or meats seasoned, spiced, and stuffed into
casings which originally consisted of the intestines of hogs, sheep,
or cattle-sheep being most tender. The stuffed casing is tied shut
usually at short intervals to form a string of plump cylindrical sec-
tions with rounded ends. Some kinds are used fresh and can be
prepared for the table by grilling, frying. and boiling. Other
sausages, not classed as fresh meat, are boiled, smoked, or boiled
271
I
272 MEAT PRODUCTS 'AND BY-PRODUCTS
and smoked, or air dried. Some of these can be eaten as cold cuts
without any further preparation, while others require further cook-
ing to make them palatable.
'"
SAUSAGES AND PUDDINGS 275
when it is used for patties or molded and sliced for cooking. If
the meat is ground too fine, it has a tendency to become hard a'lld
dry III cooEiilr' In eith~f-cas-e;-i:oo'fiiuctrfat'catrses'a'rarge coollri g .•
tQ~j_ wIllie-not enough fat wirriilakethe' s~ausaiS"Jiira;ory~Qiffi
cult to brown.
ror 'coafSe-cut sausage, use the cutting plate with the standard
7i G- incn noles and ran "it through ihe-griilder once: For a fine:cut
sausage, run the'1'fieal through the grillder twice, the first tim;using-
.!_he cut!lp,.gl?l,ate_ with large %-inch holes, and the second time USlll&
the plate with the standard %G-inch holes. If a still finer cut is
deSIred, a Ys-inch hole plat~ ID_£lY be used_£()f.. t,he second grinding.
-]TSausag'clsrun througll the grinder twice, it should stana over-
night in a cool place between the first and second grindings. This
will prevent the meat from becoming heated by being ground twice
in succession. It will also give the seasoning a chance to permeate
tne-meat and wilrTii'sure better Havor. Remember that, in cutting
me-at"for sausage, the cutting knife and plate on the grinder must be
sharp and the meat c<221, A Oiitni.nife and plate will crush out the
m~suft in i~erior-sausage.
(Small quantities of loose or bulk sausage for immediate use may
oe kept in a crock or jar in the refrigerator or where it is cool. If it
is to be kept for a longer period, it should be molded into patties
and partially fried. The s~usage is then placed in stone crocks and
covered with melted lard. \
(Fresh pork sausage made of beef and pork, or mutton and pork,
and headcheese may be used without being stuffed into casings. 1
NeveJ;theless, these so-called fresh sausages are also stuffed into cas-
ings. lSausages si~ilar to liver sausage ~!1_d )~Q.!()gn~~~!yle sausage
should.,?e s~uffed lllto casings: )/ ·(~ir·:1" ::
--p()rJ( casmgs are excelIent for stuffing soausage when properly
cleaned and handkd. For ~mall link sausage, however, ~se sheep
casings. For m~dium link sausage, use medium sheep casings or
na.rrow hog casings. For large link or country-style sausage, use
i1_gular hog casings. B!;e_f casings are too tough to u,~~_!or sau~~ge.
r
Bundles or sets of salted casings may be purchased from many local
butchers. Several types of manufactured casings are also on the
market. Animal casings should be soaked for several minutes in
warm water and then flushed out immediately before being used.
Sausage may also be stuffed in muslin bags. These can be made by
stitching strips of muslin to form bags about 2 to 2Y2 inches in
diameter and about 12 to 15 inches long. Muslin casings should be
dipped in water and wrung out before they are used. After being
chilled, these stuffed bags are usually dipped in paraffin')
276 MEAT PRODUCTS AND BY-PRODUCTS
( In stuffing, first attach the stuffer spout and force enough sausage
into it to fill the spout. Now slip the casing over the spout and
feed on as much as it will hold. If a muslin casing is used, pull
the closed end of the casing up tightly against the end of the stuffing
tube. These precautions will prevent the formation of air pockets
in t!Ie casing. )
\ C!E_stuff sau~~~f!ic~en~~yand successfully, the meat specialists of
the O.-S. Department of Agriculture recommend that the op_e~~~or
sllPport the casing at the enq of the stuffer with the first hnger of
his left hand while he turns the crank with his right hand. Pressing
upward with the left forefinger and raising the stuffed casIng above
the end of the stuffer spout will pack the casing more tightly,
tlu;reb-J" elini-inating aL~~~~ets. A,_!1imal casings are cut after the
proper-sized ,ring or length has been stuffed and a new length is then
begun~
FIG. 214. Force sausage into stulfer spout. Slip casing over the spout and start
filling casing; put in as milch as it will hold.
,_--
nail into the far corner of the table and fasten to--n--cfffe ei1a- ofa
stout, s6ft, -wnite-string 3 feet long. Grasp both cut ends of tne cas-
'4- .'
SAUSAGES AND PUDDINGS 277
ing, for example, a ring sausage or pudding, in the left hand and tie
tnem together with two half-hitches of the strmg:llethe ]lrsi: ring
n~.ai:!h~ ii<iif and. ~ilch succeeding one a little farther down the
string. 'When the string is full, cut it free and attach a new one.
_----'"'--
FIG. 215. Some popular varieties of sausage-country style, sausage meat, and
breakfast links.
(The less t:nder port~ons of deer, a?telope, elk, moose, alld other
bIg game ammals (vemson) can certamly be used)to best advantage
iilrrr:rtdng a palatable sausage. All these meats can be mixed in the _
pro ortion ·_£pgUPrls.,of veni~~!:..~.eaeh of·-leaQ.,e_nd
fat pork. ! -
( Liver Sausage) !
T.l ..•
SAUSAGES AND PUDDINGS 281
one-fifth as much broth by weight, using enough to make the mix-
ture soft but not sloppy. Season to taste and mix thoroughly. The
following are standard quantities of seasonings for 100 pounds of
the mixture:
\,,--~
y
\...-
v2 to 2 Y2 pounds salt ~ to 1 oun(:e red pepper
~ to 4 ounces black pepper 1 to 2 ounces allspice }
,L, to 3 ounces sage
I The seasoned, well-mixed sausage is usually stuffed in -b~ef cas-
i~gs and simmered. in water until it ~oats; the time req'Uired--is
Tot'O:30 minutes. After being cooked, the ~ausqge is plunged into
c"Ord water, chilled for at least 30 minutes, and hung up to drain.
"If the meat'is cooked too long in the first kettle, the second cook-
ing, after the sausage has beel} stuffed, will destroy the tight "live"
texture of the finished sausageJ
Another liver sausage can be made in accordance with the fol-
lowing formula:
35 pounds pork trimmings 2 ounces SWeet mafJ'oram
(heads, shanks, etc.) I ounce allspice
r 15 pounds lean veal or beef 10 pounds meat broth
7 pounds dry bread Garlic or onions
I pound salt
Bologna Sausage
This is one of our most commonly used sausages. Its name is de-
rived from the town of Bologna in Italy, where it was first made and
where the people use it extensively to this day. However, our supply
is chiefly of domestic make. There is a comparatively small impor-
tation from both Italy and Germany.
Bolgg_~ sausage consists of ground por)' and beef mixed with
e!l~~gh_~~Ier -to give the sausage the de~rable fine, tenacious tex-
ture. .".,----,.__...- . -.-~---.-----
(_ Grind the chilled beef trimmings with salt at the rate of 2 pounds
'per 100 pounds of beef. Use the coarse grinding plate, and allow
the meat to cure in a cool place for about 48 hours. Salt, in the same
proportion, is added to the coarsely ground pork the next evening
and the pork is allowed to cure overnight. Many persons do not
CI;ue the pork. )
l R~grind the cured beef, using the plate with Ys.inch holes. Then
ai:ld the pork and grind the mixture again. If the pork was not
cured add the salt (13 ounces for each 40 pounds of pork) before
grinding. Add the spices and '"the water and stir or mix "vigorously
until the whole mass has become sticky. It often takes 30 minutes
to mix this sausage properly. J
Stuff the sausage tightly into beef casings or muslin bags and
allow it to hang and cure in a cool place until the next morning.
Put it in a well-ventilated smokehouse heated to 110° to 120°F.
Protect the casings from a direct blaze that might scorch them. The
sausage should take on a rich mahogany-brown color in about 2
hours. 1
r"put the hot, freshly smoked sausage immediately into water heated
to 160° to 175°F., and cook it until it squeaks when the pressure of
the thumb and finger on the casing is suddenly released. The usual
cooking time for sausage stuffed in beef "rounds" is 15 to 30 minutes.
Plunge the cooked sausage into cold water and chill it. Hang it in
a cool place to dry. Use as soon as possible. )
/
,
" " -
Summer Sausage
Summer sausage or cervelat is similar to salami in preparation.
t is made in the country during the winter and kept for use during
le summer. As a ,lunch sausage it has become very popular because
f its keeping qualities. Summer sausage is a hard, dry sausage that
i highly seasoned. It may be mixed in the following proportions:
(Headcheese )
(!Ieadcheese is easily made. Make deep cuts in the thick pieces of
meat, cover with water, and simmer until the meat is well done and
slips from the bones. The skin, if used, should be cooked in a sack
so that it may be removed from the pot when so tender that a finger
can be pushed through it. The thick ears and snouts will require
longer cooking than the other skin. The skin is ground with the
plate having Va-inch holes. The other pieces of meat are boned
after they are cooked. These, with the boneless pieces such as the
heart, are ground with the plate that has Y2-inch holes. Some per-
sons prefer to cut the tongue and some of the larger pieces of fat
into strips instead of grinding them. Ot~rs prefer not to grind
any of the meat but pick or cut it in pieces._)
The meat, whether part of it is ground and some cut or all picked
to pieces, is then mixed with enough of the broth-the water in
which the meat was cooked-to make the mass soft without being
sloppy. This mixture is returned to the kettle and brought to a
boil. This reheating serves to mix the gelatin thoroughly through
the broth so that when the headcheese is poured into shallow pans
and chilled it will slice without crumbling.
Seasoning is added at the beginning of the second cooking. Usu-
ally it is safe to season to taste, though the ,following,. quantities of
,./.
~
SCRAPPLE RECIPES 287
seasoning per 100 pounds of cooked meat, including the added
broth, are a satisfactory guide:
2 to 2V2 pounds salt 1 ounce ground cloves
3 to 5 ounces black pepper 1 ounce coriander
~ to 1 ounce red pepper 2 ounces sweet marjoram
More piquancy to the flavor can be obtained by adding one or
two bay leaves, some cut or chopped parsley, and minced onion
fried tender but not brown. A little vinegar or lemon juice or
minced lemon rind also gives a desirable flavor.
If the headcheese is stuffed into casings, this should be done after
seasoning and before the second cooking. The stuffed headcheese
should then be placed in the remaining liquid and simmered until
it floats (10 to 30 minutes). Then take it out, chill and hang away.
Headcheese is usually sliced and eaten cold.
Headcheese is usually made from pork, but some beef or veal may
be added in the following proportions:
20 pounds pork ~ ounce allspice
5 pounds beef ~ ounce cloves
~ pound pepper V2 ounce caraway
V2 pound salt 4 pounds broth
The meat is cooked as previously described. It is cut up by hand
into half- or quarter-inch cubes. Then the broth in which the meat
was cooked is added with the seasoning, and the mass is thoroughly
mixed by hand until the seasoning is properly worked through the
meat. This mixture is then put into casings (hog paunches or beef
straights) and laid out to cool. They may be pressed by laying a
weighted board over them.
GCRAPPLE RECIPE_~)
,-
(Scrapple or ponhaws originated with the Germans who settled
in" the eastern part of the key-stone State. They came to be known
as Pennsylvania Dutch instead of Pennsylvania Deutsch. The old-
fashioned formula for ponhaws they developed calls for young pig's
head boiled until the meat is readily separated from the bones. The
meat is then chopped or ground very firie and put back into the
broth (the water in which the meat was cooked) and then thickened
with buckwheat or cornmeal, and seasoned with spices and herbs.
When of the consistence of mush, it is run into pans to cool, to be
later sliced and fried for the table.}
There are numerous formulas or recipes for making scrapple.
288 MEAT PRODUCT) AND BY-PRODUCTS
Therefore~ at this juncture it is pertinent to clarify just what is the
accepted idea of ponhaws and scrapple. In the process of time, in-
ferior recipes have lowered the general conception of ponhaws and
today scrapple made by the best recipes stands for what originally
was ponhaws. Not only have the fine basic recipes for ponhaws been
corrupted but the term as well; for example-pan has and pan house.
Most of the scrapple sold in the stores and served in the restau-
rants today is for the most part nothing more than a glorified mush,
flavored with a trace of pork liquor, and seasoned with over-aged
spices and herbs.
(Ponhaws_)
(Here is a most delicious ponhaws of old Pennsylvania vintage in
which pork plays a prominent part.
Clean a pig's head thoroughly (page 80), split it, and remove the
brains, tongue, and eyes. The tongue mayor may not be included
with the meat to be cooked. Put the head pieces and tongue, if de-
sired, into a large kettle, cover with 4 or 5 quarts of cold water and
simmer gently for 2 or 3 hours, or until the meat falls from the
bones. After the meat is cooked, let it stand a while until the fat
collects on the surface. Skim off this grease carefully; remove meat
and chop fine. Strain the broth to remove all bones and gristle.
Hold out a little broth to mix with cereal later. Return the re-
mainder of the liquid to the kettle, put in the chopped meat, and
bring the mixture to a boil. Add the finely ground yellow cornmeal,
moistened with some of the cooled broth, so that it may be added
to the hot mixture of meat and broth without forming lumps. Boil
slowly for about one-half hour, stirring almost constantly to prevent
sticking and scorching. Just a few minutes before cooking is com-
pleted or when the mixture attains the consistency of soft mush,
add one teaspoon of powdered sage, salt, and pepper; stir in well.
Pour the hot scrapple into small, shallow, greased pans and chill as
promptly as possible. Later, when it molds, the scrapple can be
sliced and fried to a crisp brown. If properly made it will not
separate when sliced nor crumble when fried. The slices may be
floured before they are fried)
(Scrapple _)
'£-he scrapple of general consumption, an especially favored break-
fast dish, is made chiefly of cornmeal, pigs' feet, tails, skin, and all
trimmings not used for sausage. The high standard of meat products
,I., " .
SCRAPPLE RECIPES 289
is largely determined by the quality of meat and other ingredients
that enter into their making, as well as the correct proportion of
each.
Cool, the heads, tongue, hearts, and trimmings all together until
the bones and much of the gristle can be removed. If skin is in·
cluded, cook until tender. Skin and gristle, no matter how long
they are cooked, will not contribute much quality to the meat por·
tion of the mixture or to the finished product. However, these two
items will enrich the broth in which it is cooked. Pour off the liquid
through a strainer and remove all bones and large portions of gristle.
A small portion of skin may be left with the meat. Grind all this
material through the fine plate. Pour all the broth in which the
meat. was cooked back into the kettle and then add all the ground
meat.)
The' cereal to be added may be only finely ground yellow corn·
meal or a cereal mixture, one consisting of 7 parts cornmeal and 3
parts of white or buckwheat flour; or 7 parts cornmeal, 2 parts
shorts, and I part of buckwheat flour.
Four parts ground·meat products with a low content of gristle and
skin, 3 parts of meat broth, and I part dry cereal or cereal mixture
(by weight) will produce a richly flavored and generally satisfactory
scrapple. More meal and broth may be used if desired. The same
is true of the meat.
In adding the cereal or cereal mixture, moisten it with some of
the cooled broth so that it may be added to the hot ground.meat
and broth without forming lumps. Boil the mixture for about one·
half hour, stirring it frequently or constantly to prevent sticking.
Add the seasoning shortly before the cooking is finished and stir
it well.
Salt, pepper, and a few or many spices may be added depending
upon the preference of the individual. The following seasonings
may be used for 100 pounds of scrapple, including the meat broth
and the dry cereal mixture:
2 to 2Y2 pounds of salt I ounce nutmeg (if desired)
2 to 4 ounces black pepper Y2 ounce of mace (if desired)
2 to 4 ounces sweet marjoram 2 ounces of ground onions dur·
2 to 4 ounces sage (if desired) ing second cooking (if de·
I ounce red pepper (if desired) sired)
When the scrapple is cooked it is poured into small shallow pans
and chilled as promptly as possible.
290 MEAT PRODUCTS AND BY-PRODUCTS
Scrapple
Select 3 pounds of bony pieces of pork. Simmer in 3 quarts of
water until the meat drops from the bone. Strain off the broth,
remove the bone, taking care to get all of the tiny pieces, and chop
the meat fine. There should be about 2 quarts of broth, and if nec-
essary add water to make this quantity. Bring the broth to the boil-
ing point, slowly add 2 cups of cornmeal, cook the mixture until it
is thick mush, and stir almost constantly. Add the chopped meat,
salt, and any other seasoning desired, such as onion juice, sage, and
thyme. Pour the hot scrapple into oblong enamelware pans which
have been rinsed with cold water. Let stand until cold and firm,
slice, and brown in a hot skillet. If the scrapple is rich with fat,
no more fat is needed for frying.
Oatmeal Scrapple
Cook a pork bone, on which there is still some meat, until it falls
from the bone. Steam a cupful of oatmeal in the meat broth. Clean
the bone of all pork and run it through the meat grinder. Add to
it the cooked oatmeal until it attains the consistency of soft mush.
Season with sage, or other herbs, salt, and pepper. Pour into shallow
pans and let stand until stiff and cold. Slice and fry to a crisp brown.
Turkey Scrapple
Here is a good way to use some of the left-over roast turkey:
4 cups turkey meat I V2 cups cornmeal
4 cups celery stuffing Turkey bones
1 teaspoon salt Giblet gravy
1 teaspoon poultry dressing
Chop together in a chopping bowl the meat and stuffing. Break
the turkey bones, cover with cold water and boil slowly 45 minutes.
Strain and pick all meat off the bones. There should be about 12
cups of liquid. Add meat and stuffing, gravy, salt, and poultry dress-
ing. Put into a large kettle over a slow fire and gradually add the
cornmeal, stirring constantly. When very thick pour into well-but-
tered bread pans to cool and harden. This will keep for a month in
a cool place. Slice as desired and fry in butter to a crisp brown.
MINCEMEAT 291
H·, .:,', . (Mincemeat )
j
Cook the meat. After it is cool, chop or cut very fine, add sugar,
raisins, currants, citron. Mix these ingredients together. Chop or
cut apples fine but do not mash them, and add to chopped meat.
Add spices and mix thoroughly. Pour over the mixture one quart
of brandy and two quarts of whiskey; add rind, and juice of oranges
and lemons-.}
Put mixture into an earthen crock with a lid. Place a cloth over
292 MEAT PRODUCTS AND BY-PRODUCTS
the top and then put on the lid_ Keep in a cool place for about three
weeks. Then add more salt and spices if taste requires this. Let
stand for about 4 weeks before using. At this time it can be packed
in glass fruit jars. When making mincemeat pies, always bake this
filling between two crusts.
])eer Mincemeat
The following is a formula that can be used with any venison-
deer, elk, or antelope, also rabbit and bear meat.
. J.
I
PRESERVING MEAT IN LARD 295
~RESERVING MEAT IN LARD)
(_SOAP MAKIN9
(vvaste lard or fat from cooking and fats rendered from tallow
at'la meat trimmings may be used in making soap at home. The
quality of the soap obtained depends on the kind and condition
of the fat. A combination of tallow and lard makes the best soap.
Poultry fat and vegetable oils should be combined with other fats,
as soap made from them alone is soft and spongy. Waste fat should
be clarified.
To clarify waste fat, melt it slowly and stI.lin it through two
thicknesses of cheesecloth. Then add an equal volume of hot water,
stir well, and bring to a boil. Remove from the fire, and with con-
stant stirring, add one quart of cold water. Set aside to cool. When
firm, the clean fat on top is ready to make into soap.
The other materials combined with fat to make soap are borax,
lye, and water. The addition of borax is not necessary. It is some-
time~ used, however, to improve the appearance and suds of the
soap.)
l..-ye can be obtained in grocery stores. Care should be taken
in dissolving it in water as the fumes are irritating and heat is gen-
erated. Avoid contact of the dry lye or the lye solution with the skin
or clothing. If this occurs, wash well with water and rinse with
diluted vinegar. Lye attacks aluminum. Therefore, never use alum-
inum utensils in making soap.
296 MEAT PRODUCTS AND BY-PRODUCTS
Soft water (rain water) is best for making soap. If hard water
must be used, add I to 2 tablespoons of lye per gallon, depending
on the hardness of the water, and let it stand for 2 days until the
hardness settles out.
Equipment. Enamel, iron, or earthenware containers must be
used for dissolving the lye and for mixing the soap ingredients.
Never use aluminum. Stir with a wooden paddle or with a wooden
or enamel spoon. A dairy thermometer is convenient for measuring
temperatures.
Molds for the soap may be made from cardboard or wooden
boxes or shallow enamel pans. The soap is more easily removed if
the mold is lined with waxed paper or with cotton cloth dipped in
cold water and wrung dry.
~oap Formula0 .
Go make about 9 pounds of soap the following is recommended:
6 pounds of clean fat (about 13 cups) I can lye (13 ounces)
'l:l
cup borax (optional) 2V2 pints soft water
To make one bar of soap use the following:
I cup clean fat 5 teaspoons lye
I teaspoon borax (optional) V2 cup soft water
Procedure. Weigh or measure the clarified fat, heat slowly until
completely melted, and cool to approximately 110°F. (slightly higher
than blood heat). If borax is desired, it should be added to the fat
at this point. Stir the fat occasionally during cooling to prevent
crystals from forming. Meanwhile, dissolve the lye in the water and
cool to about 85°F. (lukewarm). Pour the lye solution into the fat
in a thin, steady stream with slow, even stirring. Continue stirring
until a thin honey-like texture is obtained. This should take from
10 to 20 minutes. Always add the lye solution slowly to the fat, this
is important. Too rapid addition of the lye or too vigorous stirring
may cause separation of the ingredients.
If the soap mixture does not become thick within half an hour
and there is a greasy layer on top, perhaps it is too warm. In this
case, set the container in cool water and keep stirring from the sides
and bottom. On the other hand, if the mixture is lumpy, it may be
too cold. Then set it in a pan of warm water and stir until the
lumps disappear.
Pour the thickened soap mixture into the prepared molds. Cover
and keep warm for at least 24 hours. Remove the soap and cut it
SOAP MAKING 297
into bars. Before the soap is ready for use, the bars should age for
about 2 weeks in a dry place.
If the soap is crumbly or has streaks of grease it may be reclaimed.
To do this, cut the soap into fine pieces, add water (7 pints for g.
pound·soap formula, and I cup for the l·bar formula) and dissolve
over low heat. Stir occasionally. When the lumps have disappeared,
increase the heat and boil until the soap appears thick. Pour into
molds.
After proper aging, soap carefully prepared according to the pre·
ceding directions makes a good general household product. Home·
made soap will sometimes contain enough free alkali to be harmful
to the skin; hence it is not generally recommended for toiIet~
xv
HELPFUL REFERENCES
The bulletins and leaflets listed below are available for dis-
tribution by members of Congress; Office of Information. U. S.
Department of Agriculture. Washington 25. D. c.; or by the Super-
intendent of Documents. Government Printing Office. Washington
25. D. C. Some are for sale only. at the price quoted. For these
send order and remittance to the Superintendent of Documents.
FARMERS' BULLETINS
LEAFLETS
BULLETINS
ApPENDIX B
PUBLICATIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
ApPENDIX C
MOTION PICTURES PRODUCED BY THE DEPARTMENTS OF AGRICULTURE
AND THE INTERIOR
Title
Biology: Livestock:
How Animal Life Begins Do Unto Animals
In the Beginning Feeding Farm Animals
Ovulation, Fertilization, and Early Livestock and Mankind
Development of the Mammalian Livestock Cooperatives in Action
Egg
Transplanting Hen's Ova Nutrition:
For Health and Happiness
Curing Meat: Kids Must Eat
Curing Pork Country Style Something You Didn't Eat
Pork on the Farm
Meats With Approval Poultry:
Duck Farming
Poultry-A Billion Dollar Industry
Producing Quality Poultry
304 HELPFUL REFERENCES
RELATED SLIDEFILMS
Title
Frozen Food Lockers and Your Food Cooking Poultry, Older Birds
Supply Cooking Poultry, Young Birds
Canning Chicken Home Grown Food: Production
Canning Meat Preservation
Cooking Meat According to Cut Federal Meat Inspection
Title
Conservation in Action Pacific Halibut Fishing
Food for Thought Retailing Fish
Filleting and Packaging Fish Wildlife of the Aleutian Islands
It's the Maine Sardine
ApPENDIX D
REFERENCE BOOKS
Meat
Title Allthor Pllblisher
Meats and Meat Products William Henry l.B. Lippincott Company,
Tomhave Philadelphia, Pa.
Farm Meats M. D. Hesler The Macmillan Company,
New York, N. Y.
Meat for the Table Sleeter Bull McGraw-Hili Book Company, Inc.,
New York, N. Y.
The Meat We Eat P. Thomas Ziegler The Interstate Printers and
Publishers, Danville, III.
The Construction and Winton and Winton John Wiley and Sons, Inc.,
Composition of Foods New York, N. Y.
Home Meat Curing Made Morton Salt Company,
Easy Chicago, Ill.
No.6 Meat-Better Household Finance Corporation,
Buymanship Chicago, I II.
Cooking
The Pennsylvania Dutch William K. Dorman Dorman and Davidow.
Cook Book Leonard Da vidow P. O. Box 250, Reading, Pa.
Louis Diat's Home Cook Louis Diat l. B. Lippincott Company,
Book Philadelphia, Pa.
The Boston Cooking· Fannie Merritt Little, Brown and Company,
School Cook Book Farmer Boston, 1\la55.
APPENDIX D 305
Title Author Publisher
The Alice Bradley Menu- Alice Bradley The Macmillan Company,
Cook Book New York, N. Y.
Meta Given's Modern En- Meta Given J. G. Ferguson and A.-ociates,
cyclopedia of Cooking Chicago, Ill.
Ida Bailey Allen's Step- Ida Bailey Allen Gosset and Dunlop, Inc.
by-Step Cook Book New York, N. Y.
Gay Nineties Cook Book F. Meredith Dietz The Dietz Press, Inc.,
August Dietz, Jr. Richmond, Va.
As The World Cooks International Institute of Lowell,
Inc., Lowell, Mass.
Picayune Creole Cook The Times Picayune Publishing
Book Company, New Orleans, La.
Jessie Marie Deboth's Jessie Marie Deboth Whitman Publishing Company,
Cook Book Racine, Wis.
Shaker Cook Book Caroline B. Piercy Crown Publishers,
New York, N. Y.
Better Homes and Gar- Meredith Publishing Company,
dens New Cook Book New York, N. Y.
Six American Home Mag- Doubleday, Page & Company,
azine Cooking Booklets New York, N. Y.
Hungarian Cooking Katalin Frank British Book Center,
New York, N. Y.
Clementine in the Phineas Beck Hastings House Publishers,
Kitchen New York, N. Y.
Specialties de la Maison American Friends of France, Inc.,
New York, N. Y.
The Joy of Cooking Irma S. Rombauer The Bobbs-Merril Company,
New York, N. Y.
The Best from Midwest Ada B. Lothe M. S. Mill Company, Inc.,
Kitchens Breta L. Greim New York, N. Y.
Ethel M. Keating
The Garland Cook Book Laura K. Leonard Chester R. Heck, Inc.,
Ruth W. Crosby New York, N. Y.
Fannie Engle's Cook Book Fannie Engle Duell, Sloan and Pierce, Inc.,
New York, N. Y.
The Settlement Cook Lizzie B. Kander The Settlement Cook Book Com-
Book pany, Milwaukee, Wis.
The Good Housekeeping Rinehart and Company, Inc.,
Cook Book New York, N. Y.
Mother Hubbard's Cook Marion White M. S. Mill Company, Inc.,
Book New York, N. Y.
Sunset's Kitchen Cabinet Lane Publishing Company,
Recipes San Franci ... co, Calif.
American Women's Cook Ruth Berolzheimer Garden City Publishing Company,
Book Inc., Garden City, N. Y.
The Philadelphia Cook Anna W. Reed Barrows and Company, Inc.,
Book of Town and New York, N. Y.
Country
Edith Barber's Cook Book Edith M. Barber G. P. Putnam's Sons,
New York, N. Y. 'j
America's Cook Book Charles Scribner's Sons,
New York, N. Y.
Ann Batchelder's Own Ann Batchelder M. Barrows and Company, Inc.,
Cook Book New York, N. Y.
The Escoffier Cook Book A. Escoffier Crown Publishers,
New York, N. Y.
The New American Cook Lily Haxworth Books Incorporated,
Book Wallace New York, N. Y.
Cook at Home in Chinese Henry Low The Macmillan Company,
New York, N. Y.
How to Cook and Eat in Buwei Yang Chao The John Day Company,
Chinese New York, N. Y.
The Epicure in Imperial Marie Alexandre The Colt Press,
Russia Markevitch San Francisco, Calif.
Guilded Notes on Cook- Wesleyan Service Guild, "" •.••
ery Lavonia, Ga.
t
j.
306 HELPFUL REFERENCES
Title Author Publisher
Tropical Cooking Gladys R. Grayam The Panama American Press, Inc.,
Canal Zone, U.S.A.
Fish and Game Cookery Roy Wall M. S. Mill Company, Inc.,
New York, N. Y.
Cooking Wild Game Frank G. Ashbrook Orange] udd Publishing Company,
Edna M. Sater New York, N. Y.
Fowl and Game Cookery James Beard M. Barrows and Company, Inc.,
New York, N. Y.
Fish and Game Cook Harry Botsford Cornell Maritime Press,
Book New York, N. Y.
Fish and Seafood Cook Rose and Bob Brown J. B. Lippincott Company,
Book Philadelphia, Pa.
Seafood Cookery Lily Haxworth M. Barrows and Company, Inc.,
Wallace New York, N. Y.
Casserole Cookery Marion and Modern Age Books, Inc.,
Nino Tracy New York, N. Y.
Casserole Magic Lousene Rossea u Harper and Brothers,
Brunner New York, N. Y.
The Outdoorsman's Cook Arthur H. Carhart The Macmillan Company,
Book New York, N. Y.
A Cook Book of Left- Clare Newman and Little, Brown and Company,
overs Bell Wiley Boston, Mass.
Short Cuts and Leftovers Hannah W. Schloss M. Barrows and Company, Inc.,
New York. N. Y.
The Kitchen Cook Book Ruth Taylor Charles Scribner's Sons,
New York, N. Y.
Pressure Cookery Leone Rutledge M. Barrows and Company, Inc.,
Carroll New York, N. Y.
Press u re Cooking Ida Bailey Allen Garden City Publishing Company,
Inc., Garden City, N. Y.
Herbs for the Kitchen I rma Goodrich Little, Brown and Company,
Mozza Boston, Mass.
How to Carve Meat, M. O. Cullen McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc.,
Game and Poultry New York, N. Y.
The Complete Meat Cook Beth Bailey McLean Chas. A. Bennett Co., Inc.,
Book Thora Hegstad Peoria, Ill.
Campbell
ApPENDIX E
STATE GAME DEPARTMENTS
Those who desire to preserve and store wild game and fish should
contact the State Game Department in the State In which these
pursuits are contemplated.
State OrganIzation Location
Alabama Director, Department of Conservation Montgomery 4
Alaska Fish and Wildlife Service Juneau
Arizona Director, Arizona Game and Fish Commission State Bldg., Phoenix
Arkansas Executive Secretary, Game and Fish Commis- State Capitol, Little
sion Rock
California Director, Department of Fish and Game Ferry Bldg., San
Francisco 11
Colorado Superintendent of Fur Resources, State Game 1350 Sherman Street,
and Fish Commission Denver 5
Connecticut Game Technician, State Board of Fisheries Hartford 1
and Game
Delaware Chief Game Warden, Board of Game and Dover
Fish Commissioners
APPENDIX E 307
State Organization Location
Florida Director, Game and Fresh Water Fish Com- Tallahassee
mission
Georgia Director, State Game and Fish Commission 412 State Capitol,
Atlanta 3
Hawaii Director, Division of Fish and Game, Board P. O. Box 3319,
of Commissioners of Agriculture and For- Honolulu 1
estry
Idaho Director, Department of Fish and Game Boise
Illinois Director, Department of Conservation Springfield
Indiana Director, Division of Fish and Game, Depart- 311 West Wash;ng-
ment of Conservation ton Street, Indian-
apolis 9
Iowa Director, State Conservation Commission East 7th and Court
Streets, Des Moines
8
Kansas Dir~ctor, Forestry, Fish and Game Commis- Pratt
Sion
Kentucky Director, Department of Conservation Frankfort
Louisiana Director, Division of Furs and Refuges, De- Civil Courts Bldg.,
partment of Wildlife and Fisheries New Orleans 16
Maine Chief Warden, Department of Inland Fish- State House, Augusta
eries and Game
Maryland State Game Warden, Board of Natural Re- 510-514 Munsey
sources, Department of Game and Inland Bldg., Baltimore 2
Fish
Massachusetts Commissioner, Department of Conservation 15 Ashburton Place,
Boston 8
Michigan Game Division, Conservation Commission Lansing 13
Minnesota Commissioner, Department of Conservation State Office Building,
St. Paull
Mississi ppi Director, State Game and Fish Commission 330 East Pearl Street,
Jackson 104
Missouri Director, State Conservation Commission Monroe Bldg., Jeffer-
son City
Montana State Fish and Game Warden, State Dept. of Helena
Fish and Game
Nebraska Project Leader, Pittman-Robertson Project, Lincoln 9
Game Forestation and Parks Commission
Nevada Secretary, State Fish and Game Commission Box 678, Reno
New Hampshire Director, Fish and Game Department State House Annex,
Concord
New Jersey Division of Fish and Game, Department of State House Annex,
Conservation and Economic Development Trenton 7
New Mexico State Game Warden, Department of Game Santa Fe
and Fish
New York Director, Division of Fish and Game, Con- Albany 7
servation Department
North Ca rolina Commissioner, Division of Game and Inland Raleigh
Fisheries, Department of Conservation and
Development
North Dakota Game Warden, State Game and Fish Depart- Bismarck
Olent
Ohio Chief, Division of Wildlife, Department of 1500 Dublin Road,
Natural Resources Columbus
Oklahoma Superintendent, Game Division, Game and State Capitol, Okla-
Fish Department homa City 5
Oregon State Game Comnlissioll P. O. Box 4136,
Portland 8
Pennsylvania Executive Director, Pennsylvania Game Com- Harrisburg
mission
Rhode Island Administrator, Division of Fish and Game, State House,
Department of Agriculture and Conserva- Providence 2
tion
South Carolina Director, Division of Game, Wildlife Re- Columbia
SOUrces Department
308 HELPFUL REFERENCES
State Organization Location
South Dakota Director. Department of Game. Fish and Pierre
Parks
Tennessee Director. Division of Game and Fish. Depart- 304 State Office Bldg .•
ment of Conservation Nashville 3
Texas El(ecutive Secretary. Game and Fish Com- Austin
mission
Utah Director. State Fish and Game Commission 1596 West North
Temple. Salt Lake
City 16
Vermont Director. Fish and Game Service. Department Montpelier
of Natural Resources
Virginia El(ecutive Director. Commission of Game and Richmond 13
I nland Fisheries
Washington Director. Department of Game. State Game 509 Fairview North.
Commission Seattle
West Virginia Chief. Division of Game Management. Con- Charleston
servation Commission of West Virginia
Wisconsin GlIme Management Division. Conservation Madison 2
Department
Wyoming State Game Warden. Wyoming Game and Cheyenne
Fish Commission
Canada Chief. Canadian Wildlife Service. Depart- Ottawa
ment of Resources and Development
Alberta Fish and Game Commissioner. Department of Edmonton
Lands and Forests
British Columbia GlIme Commission 567 Burrard Street.
Vancouver 1
Manitoba Director of Game and Fisheries. Department Winnipeg
of Mines and Natural Resources
New Brunswick Chief Game Warden. Department of Lands Fredericton
and Mines
Newfoundland Chief Game Warden. Department of Mines St. Johns
and Resources
Northwest Director. Northern Administration and Lands Ottawa. Ontario
Territories Branch. Department of Resources and De-
velopment
Nova Scotia Director. Department of Lands and Forests Halifax
Ontario Chief. Division of Fish and Wildlife. Depart- Parliament Building.
ment of Lands and Forests Toronto
Prince Edward Deputy Minister of Industry and Natural Re- Charlottetown
Island sources
Quebec SUperintendent General. Department of Fish Quebec
and Game
Saskatchewan Game Commissioner, Department of Natural Regina
Resources
Yukon Ditector. Yukon Game and Publicity Depart- Whitehorse. Yukon
ment
Mexico SeCreta ria de Agricultura y Ganaderia Direc- Mexico. D. F.
tion General Forestal y de Caza
'PENDIX F 309
ApPENDIX F
State City
.. 1'·' Alabama
Alaska
Arizona
Auburn
Palmer
Tucson
,
Arkansas Fa yetteville
California Berkeley 4
Colorado Fort Collins
Connecticut:
State station New Haven 4
Storrs sta tion Storrs
DeJa ware NewarK
Florida Gainesville
Georgia Experiment
Hawaii Honolulu 14
Idaho Moscow
Illinois Urbana
Indiana LaFayette
Iowa Ames
Kansas Manhattan
Kentucky Lexington 29
Louisiana University Sta.
Baton Rouge 3
Maine Orono
Maryland College Park
Massachusetts Amherst
Michigan East Lansing
Minnesota University Farm,
St. Paul I
Mississippi State College
Missouri Columbia
Montana Bozeman
Nebraska Lincoln I
Nevada Reno
New Hampshire Durham
New Jersey New Brunswick
New Mexico State College
New York:
State station Geneva
Cornell station Ithaca
North Carolina State College
Sta., Rall;igh
North Dakota State College
Sta., Fargo
Ohio Wooster
Oklahoma Stillwater
310 HELPFUL REFERENCES
State City
Oregon Corvallis
Pennsylvania State College
Puerto Rico Rio Piedras
Rhode Island Kingston
South Carolina Clemson
South Dakota Brookings
Tennessee Knoxville 16
Texas College Station
Utah Logan
Vermont Burlington
Virginia Blacksburg
Washington Pullman
West Virginia Morgantown
Wisconsin Madison 6
Wyoming Laramie
-- - >-,---
INDEX
;.1: .•
INDEX 313
Corned beef: Drawing poultry, 160-164
canning, 255-256 wild fowl, 165
spiced, 225 roasting chickens, 161, 164
Crabs, freezing, 193, 194 Dried beef, 229
Cracklings, 294 Dried fish, 229-230
Cubing meat, 14 Drying meat and fish, 228-231
Cullen, M. 0., 10, 63 dried beef, 229
Cured pork sausage, 279 dried shrimp, 230-231
Curing, 198-228 fish, 229-231
chickens, 218-215 jerked (dried) beef, 2Zg
ducks, 213-215 pemmican, 228-229
fish: Dry-salt curing:
brine curing, 217-219 fish, 219-222
dry-salting, 219-222 fowl, 213-215
fresh-water, 217 lamb, 212
salt-water, 217 pork, 203-208
game meats, 212-213 curing time, 206
geese, 215 Morton method, 206-207
ingredients used in, 199-201 Ducks, 40
lamb: curing, 213-215
brine curing, 211-212 killing and plucking, 159-160
dry-curing, 212 wild, 164, 166
motion pictures, 303
pheasants, 215 Edible organs:
pork, 201-209 beef, 93, 103-104
box-cured bacon, 207-209 deer, 119
brine curing, 201-203 hogs, 74, 84-86
dry-salt curing, 203-208 lamb, 115-116
Smithfield processed ham, 207 mutton, 106
processes, 198-20 I pork, 74, 84-86
standard curing mixture, 201 Eggs, 18
storing, 245-247 Elk, I 17
tongue, 210-211 Enzymes:
turkeys, 2 I 3-2 I 5 action in tenderizing meat, IO-I I
Cutting the carcass, 127-154 chemical action caused by, 177
beef. 137-145 Experiment stations, state, 309-310
lamb and mutton, 148-150
veal, 146- I 48 Farmers' bulletins, 301, 302
venison, 152-154 Fat:
caul, 104
Daily dietary needs, 47-49 leaf, 87
Deer (see also Venison), 8, 117 Federal meat inspection, 50-51
field-dressing, 1I8-l19 grading and stamping, 51-56
hanging, butchering, 119-121 Federal-state grading and inspec-
head, saving, 120 tion, poultry, 55-56
hides, salting and curing, 126 Fish, 41-43
removing tongue ilnd brain, 120 canning, 261-267 (see also Can-
Deer mincemeat, 292-293 ning: fishery products)
Digestibility of meat, 9 procuring for, 262-263
Dodge, Colonel Richard, 4 catching, 17 I
Doves, 164 ". cleaning, 172-175
314 INDEX
Fish (cont.): Freezing (cont.):
composition of, table, 20-28 labeling packages, 194
curing (see Curing: fish) packaging meat for, 181-194 (see
drawn, 170 also Packaging meat for
dressed or pan-dressed, 170 freezing)
fillets, 171, 244-245 when to freeze, 183
freezing, packaging for, 188-189, Frozen-food locker plants, 197-198
192 Frozen meats:
fresh, 169 cooking, 196
fresh-water, curing, 217 storage in home freezer, 194-195
frozen, 170, 171 thawing, 195-196
gibbing, 243 time limit on storage, 195
government publications, 302-303
inland, 41-42 Game:
marinated, 226 nutrition tests, 36-38
marine curiosities, 42 periods for processing, 181
ocean species, 42 ripening, 12-13
periods for processing, 181 state regulations re storage of, 181
pickling, 226-228 Game animals, dressing, 117-123
preserving, 215-222 big game, 117-118
rackling, 230 small game, 122-123
salt-water, 217 removing scent glands, 122-123
small, 218, 220, 243 skinning, 122, 123
smoking, 240-245 Game birds:
cold-smoking, 243-244 drawing, 165
fillets, 244-245 plucking, 165
hot-smoking, 242-243 Game meats, 35-39
state regulations re storage of, 181 curing, 212
steaks, 170 Game sausage, 280
sticks, 171 Geese:
whole, or round, 170 curing, 215
Fishery Leaflet 18, 228 killing and plucking, 160
Florida mullet, canning, 266-267 wild, 164, 166
Food nutrients, 18-28 Giblets, 41, 165
daily allowance, table, 49 canning, 260
Food planning, 44-56 freezing, 187
daily dietary needs, 47-49 Glass jars:
economy in, 46-47 for canning, 248-250
figuring family's needs, 45-46 for freezing, 189, 192
Foreign countries, consumption of Goose, 40
meat in, table, 32 Goose liver sausage, 284-285
Fowl (see also Birds; Game birds; Gourmet Magazine, 152,214
Poultry; Wild fowl): Government bulletins, 301-303
Fowl: Grading and stamping of meat, fel
curing, 213-215 eral, 51-56
smoking, 238-240 grade descriptions, 53-54
Frankfurters, 274, 281, 282 Guinea fowl, 40-41
Freezing, 7, 11-12, 176-198
cutting meat for, 178-181 Ham, Smithfield processed, 207
drying or freezer burn, 178 Ham trier, 245
ice formation in meat, 177-178 Hankins, O. G., 65
,,='
INDEX 315
Head cheese, 275 Lard:
recipe, 286-287 preserving meat in, 295
Herring: rendering, 293-294
cut spiced, 227-228 Leaf fat, 87, 293
pickling, 226-228 Liver, 18, 19
river, canning, 264-265 Liver sausage, 274, 280-281
Hides and skins: Liverwurst, 274, 275
having them tanned, 126 Lobsters, freezing, 193, 194
keeping, 126
removing, 67-70 Mackerel, canning, 266-267
Marinating, 14
salting and curing, 124-126
Meat:
shipping, 125 changes after slaughter, '9-10
Hogs, butchering, 73-90 (see Butch- composition of, 16-17
ering hogs) table, 20-28
Horse hides, salting and curing, 124- digestibility of, 9
125 enzymes in, 10
Horsemeat, 2 federal grading and stamping, 51-
Hot dogs, 282 56
Hunters' sausage, 280 federal inspection (U,S. and Can-
ada), 50-51
Insect infestation, stored meats, 245- freezing, 7, 11-12, 13, 176-198
246 fresh and seasoned, 10-14
Inspection of meat, federal, 50-51 fresh vs. high, 13
Iodine, 18 judging age of, 10
Iron, 18 modern consumption, 32-35
production and consumption, ta-
Jack rabbits, 123 bles, 29-33
Jerked beef, 229 ripening, 10-14
structure of, 15-16
Knives: tenderizing, 10-14
grinding, 62-63 value of, in diet, 7-9
honing, 63 Meat-eating, 3-6
killing, for fowl, 157-158 Milk, 18
steeling, 63-64, 65 Mincemeat, 291-292
Kosher meat, marking, 51 deer, 292-293
Moose, 117
Morton Salt Company, 127
Labeling frozen packages, 194 Motion pictures, 303-304
Lake trout, canning, 266-267 Mountain sheep, 117
Lamb: Muskrats, 37, 122, 123
butchering (see Butchering sheep compared with beef, 36
and lambs) Mutton:
curing, 211-212 Luring, 211
cutting the carcass, 148-150 cutting the carcass, 148-150
freezing: meaning of word, 107
cutting for, 180 Mutton and pork sausage, 280
packaging for, 183-185
mutton breeds, 106 Niacin, 18, 19
smoking, 238 Nutriants, food, 18-28
Lamb skins, handling, 126 daily allowance, table, 49
316 INDEX
\
Nutrition: Pork (cont.):
good, food plan for, 48 ham:
motion pictures, 303 skinned, 132
science of, 18 taking off, 131
Nutrition tests, game, 36-38 lard, rendering, 293-294
picnic shoulder and butt, 131
Oatmeal scrapple, 290 sausages, 273-284
Oil sac, removing, 166 scrapple recipes, 287-290
Opossums, 8, 36, 37, 122 smoking, 237-238
Organ meats (see Edible organs) spare ribs, 132
Oysters, freezing, 193 tenderloin, 132, 135, 137
trimming methods, 130
trimmings, 127
Packaging meats for freezing, 181- Poultry:
194 average percentages, table, 156
fish, 188-189, 192 canning, 256-260
labeling, 194 composition of, table, 20-28
methods, 181-186 drawing, 160-164
poultry, 186-188 dressing, 155-164
shellfish, 193-194 chickens, 157-159
wrapping materials, 181-183 ducks, 159-160
Paraffin plucking, 157, 166 geese, 160
Partridge, ripening, 12-13 squabs, 160
Peacocks, meat of, 8 turkeys, 159
Pennsylvania Germans, scrapple rec- federal-state grading and inspec-
ipes, 287-288 tion, 55-56
Pheasants, 8, 164 freezing, packaging for, 185, 187-
curing, 215 188
Pickling: killing, methods of, 155, 156
fish, 226-228 motion pictures, 303
pigs' feet, 223-224 removing feathers, 155, 157
pigs' feet souse, 224 removing oil sac, 166
spiced corned beef, 225 types of, 39-40
spiced tongue slices, 225-226 Prehistoric man, food of, 2
tongue, 225 Preserving meats, fowl, seafood (see
tripe, 224-225 also under separate head-
Plucking feathers, 155, 157 ings):
Poison, botulinus, 270 curing, 198-228
Ponhaws, 288 drying, 228-231
Pork: fish,215-222
freezing, 176-198
bacon (see Bacon) home canning, 247-270
Boston butt, 131 pickling, 223-228
Canadian style bacon, 136, 180 smoking, 231-247
casings, 275 Proteins, 18
curing, 201-209 (see also Curing: Publications:
pork) Department of Agriculture, 301-
cutting, for freezing, 179, 180 302
cutting the carcass, 127-136 Department of the Interior, 302-
digestibility of, 9 303
freezing, packaging for, 183-185 Puddings, 272-273
INDEX 317
Quail, 8, 164 River herring, canning, 264-265
Roe of fish, canning, 265-266
Rabbits, 8, 36, 37, 122
canning, 260-261 Sater, Edna N., 122
cutting the carcass, 154 Sausage, 271-285 oiJ:\' !
0